Gigantor - A Chossy Climbing Film
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- Опубліковано 9 січ 2023
- Australian Climber Zac Vertrees is at home on the Dogface climbing Gigantor, a route first aid climbed in 1967 by John Ewbank. Zac freed the route in 2005, yet it has not seen a second free ascent since. 15 years later in 2020, he returns to re-climb it and finds it tougher than ever before. The Dogface is notoriously scary, gear can pop, holds break, rusty bolts snap by hand and the climbing is always a sandy affair. Zac gave the route 26R. Just quietly though, he mentioned to me that The Great Shark Hunt a grade 30/5.13c crack at Mount Buffalo felt easier than Gigantor...
Filmed and Edited by Ben Sanford
/ bensanfordmedia
www.bensanfordmedia.com
Film supported by La Sportiva Australia
Cameras used:
On the wall:
Sony A7R2 8bit 🥴, Canon R, and DJI Mavic 2 Pro
For Interviews:
Sony A7R2, Canon R5, Red Dragon X
Thanks to:
Zac Vertrees
Kamil Sustiak
Adam Darragh
Macciza McPherson
Paul Thomson
Bruce Cameron
John Ewbank
Bryden Allen
Ryan Jay Sayan
Jake Anderson
Albert Manning
National Library Australia
Songs:
Alice In Winter- Nuclear Conception
Alsever Lake - No Place To Go
Wastelander - Uncanny Valley
Cody Martin - Altered Fate
Wastelander - Grit
Wastelander - Boothill - Спорт
16:28 its full of screws. why?
There’s an 11 or 12 bolt belay there. Bunch of which I filmed when Paul mentions the bad bolts. Neither the FA or FFA used them at all. They were put in by parties trying to repeat the route on aid and getting scared. When John climbed it in one pitch for the FA he didn’t need belay stations and as you know Zac wasn’t using any bolts at all.
@@bensanfordmedia Holy shit these 9 nails in a pile of dirt a so sketch dude! Let's add 2 more then it'll be good
No falls,,,,,no balls
You know it's a classic when you get the second ascent of your own route over a decade later lol
Hahaha, a trade route! Hopefully the vid sparks some more ascents
@@bensanfordmedia haha I'm sure it will, best Aussie climbing vid I've seen for a while. Seems like this route requires a particularly brave climber though
@@patrickhatch2461 Hahaha absolutely, definitely not a queue of people ready to jump on it.
Awesome video on every level- the climbing, the history, the story, the camera work, Zac, Macca and so on. You have created something unique and so Australian. Congratulations to everyone involved.
Thanks for the kind words Bill, appreciate it!
I wish John Ewbank was around to view this video. I'll never forget my encounter with a huge Huntsmen spider while leading the crux pitch on Goliath, with John back in 1969. Great video!
Would have been awesome to have him speak about some of the many wild times he had on those cliffs. That sounds exciting to say the least. Thanks Steve!
I would actually shit myself.
Everything about this has such an old school feel.....a rarity amongst the climbers and climbs of the current Era. Thank you! Keep up the good work and Zac, keep crushing it!
One of the most speccy walls in the mountains for sure! Great flick.
So epic, particularly from Narrowneck. Thanks Joe!
Amazing presentation, Zac is a total crusher good on him.
Thanks Jesse, he certainly is an animal!
This has to be one of the best Aussie climbing films ever made. The culture and history, the climbing and interview style, all top notch. My only gripe is that it's not 40 minutes longer.
Thanks very much, such a nice comment, definitely could make a full length film on all the stories that wall holds, I’ve got a bigger Blue Mountains trad film in the works with 9 cracks.
@@bensanfordmedia Epic, can't wait!
Those drone shots are the best
Thank you!
Loved it. Made me homesick
Cheers Owen, always love coming home to the Blueys!
That gears really bad 😅 So sketch! Thanks to everyone involved with this film. 👏🙌🔥❤️
Thanks very much!
Great climbing and great filming. S glad you included some historical perspectives.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Love it!
Great to see the guys are still out there.
Not much compares to the feeling of being shit scared and being in control, just.
Epic film dude, pleasure to witness! Thanks heaps
Thank you, Tali, much appreciated!
Awesome work. Great story, filming and editing. Cheers.
Great film, loved it. The climbing and climbers and great camera work etc.
Great film. Amazing wall, great story, and the camerawork compliments the climbing so well. Awesome job
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Scary shit. Keep hanging on Zac !!
Well shot and told. Well done all and thank you.
Thanks very much Richard!
awesome work guys!
Cheers Matt!
Wow loved it.
Thanks Anthony!
Fantastic
Thank you Gary!
Come visit Czech paradise Zac. You'd love the climbing.
That was simply awesome!! The filming, the music, the history… just masterful
Thanks so much Duncan, kind compliment!
Awesome!
Thanks Gerhard!
Rad send! Nice nut ladder! What a sick climb. I've said " bomber cam" a hundred times. And thought 'bomber nut' another tenfold. I don't care what cam you love.... nothing beats the security of a sinking BOMBER nut. Unless the rock breaks that is.... yeah passive gear.
Great Film!
Thanks Andrew!
Love all the history!
Glad to hear it!
And the tinkle of hexes ...
top notch!
Thanks AJ!
Good to see someone prepared to get some air under their feet on wiggly runouts instead of a bolt ladder
Yeah - great to see a whole climb - including placing the gear - something Trad videos often skip. Cheers.
Thanks Goshen, figured I’d target this one at climbers not general public so I tried not to chop it up too much and make it faster than it actually is. Glad you enjoyed it!
'A rich experience of terror' - Sign ME up.
👍💪💪💪
Cedar Wright has entered the chat.
Amazing film, can't say it makes me want to get on that face, but cool to watch. I'm curious, if the first ascensionist placed bolts, how come they haven't been replaced with modern hardware? Are there ethical restraints in australia that prevent this? In the states it's generally accepted to rebolt, just not retrobolt. No wonder there hasn't been many other ascents with the state of the protection.
Thanks Nate!
I believe none of the bolts were put in by John Ewbank on the first ascent and Zac didn’t use any either for the free ascent. So technically you don’t need them.
That 12 bolt belay station could be removed by tapping the heads of most of those bolts or grinder and glue and sand over the top. But I think at this point it’s just historical.
Nobody wants to rebolt a line like that as it’d be controversial based on my points above.
Totally hard core.
Pretty wild hey, cheers Stuart!
That old man below him is probably thinking, "Don't fall on me dude,"
Hahaha, I wouldn't be surprised if it was in his mind at the start of the second pitch.
dude-How are you?!superb edition~ese u around.✨
🖤🕷️🇹🇷🕷️🖤
What helmet are you wearing? I didnt know dmm made helmets! I want one
DMM do sell helmets the Coron this is a Italian helmet with Dmm stickers.
I'm assuming he topped out on the 2nd try? Film stops short of top out which is quite odd. Great watch even though some of the footage was repeated and not compiled in order.
He tops out in that last shot, he's topping out while it's zooming out. Nothing hard at the end there in the final metre. Also, it's an 80m crack, a lot of the moves are going to look repetitious. The first section was intentionally repeated later when the whole route was shown. Cheers!
@@bensanfordmedia Thanks for taking time to reply, looking forward to seeing more of your work.
@@olddirtydoggy Thanks very much, got a hard overhung track crack one that's nearly done, should be out in the next few months!
My mind will over passed one question. Why??
Great climbing! However, I lost track how often the same move was shown over and over. Did you really think nobody would notice?
80m cracks tend to have similar moves. either it wasn't the same move or it was when I was intentionally showing a part Zac was talking about. Wasn't trying to fool anyone thanks boss
Maybe in another millennia or two the choss will give way to the harder rock underneath.
Could be waiting a while but I’m sure you’re right!
🤎💛💛💙🖤🖤
I didn't know there was an "R" grade in OZ .. it was M0, M1 etc. Is tha the same?
We occasionally have R ratings but nothing is really described as to how sketchy it particularly is, unlike the UK.
1:35...never hold the rope in your teeth...if you fall you can watch your teggy's heading down into the valley before you do...Just saying 🤒
So whos idea was it to make a TRAD climbing video and edit out all the gear placements?! WTF was the point?!
Your obviously not very attentive.
Sorry Mr Salty, if I included every placement and move it would have been an hour of climbing. I also didn’t want to get in the way of Zac while he climbed, I wasn’t gonna be the reason he whipped, so I couldn’t film close ups of every piece going in. Sorry to disappoint…. 🙄
I was at Dogface aka the landslide a month ago - wifey and I went for a look/ drive for the day ( stopped by Hominy for the best pies in the world). There were some SES crews climbing/training around "change Planets"...... the exposure is crazy!.....
Holy Mackerel you are looking old!. Remember climbing with you at Nowra and bluies with Sax and Garth...I guess we all age.... I wonder how Big Red Mark is these days?????. You look like a Gangster from the Bronx......