Great video! Makes it look easy-peasy :D I'm doing valve adjustment right now and was scared of loosing the timing when taking of the cams, but looking at your video there's nothing to worry about. I zipp-tied the camchain to the gears, but then it went loose and moved one tooth at the crank so I was terrified it will not match ever again, but now I see I can just take off the chain and move it one tooth on the cam gear.
Hi, brilliant, glad you were helped by the video. That is the main reason I do these videos . Fellow motorcyclists the world over are a great bunch, and it is very nice to know that I have helped someone with their bike. Take care, and ride safe.
Sir, there is a possibility that i may replace my head gasket but i need to eliminate the possibility of having a cracked head. So, i wonder if you can explain how to inspect the head and narrow down the issue to head gasket replacement only. My symptoms are milky oil, missing coolant from coolant reservoir, bubbles inside the coolant reservoir tank, oil stain in the coolant reservoir tank. The bike had bad water pump shaft and seals initialy. I thought i could replace them and it shoul be ok but i am still getting above mentioned symptoms. Thank you.
Hi, yes, you have a bag of symptoms there. You will have to remove the head and try to let the head gasket 'stay in position. Then you will be able to examine it in the EXACT position that it has been in. You may be able to see immediately where the 'blow' is. If you do then you must examine the head and the block at that point. Use a magnifying glass to get the best look at what has happened.. At best you can get the head 'skimmed' or replace it as a whole. The big problem is the block. If you have any 'marks' which don't polish out on the seal face of the block. Then you may have to consider replacing the block and the head. Or get a replacement engine. This is the worst case scenario that I am painting here. But it gives you an idea of where you have got to go. Hope this helps. Feel free to get back in touch if you have any other questions, I will do my best to help. Take care.
@@RestorationBiker Thank you kindly. Considering the condition of the engine from outside, low miles of 13K, how strong it pulls and responsiveness from this well reputable rotax, i am crossing my fingers for the head gasket replacement only. My understanding from your message is that the head must be completely removed to be examined sufficiently and one can't just spend some time looking at it while it is still bolted to the lower end of the engine. I wanted to clarify this, since i am gathering my parts, in which case i need to get a gasket for the bottom of the head as well, not just the top. Thanks.
@@OutdoorFaruk Hi, Yes I would remove the head and carry out a full inspection of the seal faces on both the head and the block. From what you say, it seems as if you just have a blown gasket. I would expect that the failure of the gasket occurred when you had your trouble with the water pump seals. I would expect that as a result of that the engine overheated and blew the gasket as a result. Take your time and do it bit by bit. Feel free to contact me if you need any help or advice. I am happy to help.
@@RestorationBiker Meanwhile, i loaned a compression tester but there is a bit confusion on how to perform the test since the bike has decompresser built in. Some people do it with the valve cover on, some off. They mention disabling the decompresser...
Hmmmm... it's a little too late now, but some manuals state that the one-way bearing from the electric starter should be changed every 50,000 km. The bearing is located behind the alternator magnet,
Hi, yes that is the 'sprag' clutch. It is one of the common problems on these bikes. At least it can be done with the engine in the frame. Unlike the Triumph triple which has to have the engine removed and completely stripped before you can gain access to it!!!
@@RestorationBiker Yes, it fell apart close to home for me. Fortunately, I parked on a hill so I could start the engine to push and drive down the hill. Unscrewing the nut on the magnet shaft drove me crazy, I ended up cutting it off with a chisel. P.S. very nice restoration.
@@RestorationBiker The rotor remained intact, I just turned the nut into a blooming rose. I had to buy a new one for $1. When I destroyed the nut, I realized that I might have to wait for the original one from the BMW service, but I found the same one at the hardware store. I bought a special tool to remove the rotor.
Hi, Yes you can do a head gasket whilst the engine is fitted to the bike. But, I think you may have to remove the head studs before you can remove the head
Yes you can do it in situ but you have to grab the studs with pliers and remove them first. It's a mess but i have done it. Had to lap the head with sandpaper after boiling off and accidentally riding with no coolant. Still going strong lol inbreakable engine.
Hi, yes there are a few different manuals some do contradict others. The main bolts to 'torque' up properly, are, the four main head bolts. It is important that these are done in the normal 'criss-cross' pattern. The torque settings that I gave in the video were the ones shown in my manual. I did not have a Haynes manual for this bike., hence why my manual stated a different setting or sequence. I don't normally give torque settings in my videos as there are so many different ways to do it.. Feel free to follow your manual. The important thing is that they are done up in stages. thanks for your comments.
@@RestorationBiker right, its very confusing! It's not the only thing thats confusing on this bike as different manuals seem to have different info. I finally was able to do my head gasket in the frame today. I closed the head and now i gotta put everything else back together, i hope it holds. Can i ask you, how do the edges of the gasket look at the front of the engine? I'm starting to worry my head warped but i didnt check as i did it in the frame. My old gasket was leaking a very small amount of coolant from the front of the gasket and the angles. And the new gasket looks like the old one once on, the edges of the gasket on the front are a bit more "in" And at the rear, the gasket sticks out more
@@LosSerpent Hi, the most important thing with head gaskets is that you must always buy a good quality replacement, as there are a few 'very poor' gaskets out there. Also ensure that the gasket fits the location stubs on the block. I would be a bit concerned about it being a bit 'in' at the front and 'out' at the back. Certainly needs to be looked at. I have just opened a patreon account where I will look at peoples problems in great detail. You can send me a video or photos of your engine and I will give you a full report on what I think you should do.. Let me know if you need any help. Take care.
@@RestorationBiker alright ill check your patreon out, i doubt the gasket i got is bas tho as the old original gasket also looked like that so i think if i might have a warped head... The replacement gasket i got, the brand is "athena" dunno if that's good or not
I’m curious, why did you only clean the piston crown and not the combustion chamber? Looks a right sooty mess. I appreciate that it’s a faff, but hugely rewarding. There’s also a theory that it doesn’t make any difference to the running of the engine, but every one I’ve done has always run better. The reason is because if there’s a layer of dense carbon adhered to the piston crown and not the combustion chamber, it encourages more to get deposited. Eventually bits break off and can cause damage to the piston skirt, rings, bore and exhaust valves and seats. Also, during each induction stroke, a proportion fuel is absorbed by the hot carbon deposits. It’s impossible to gauge how much, but it’s quite a large area, and the thicker the carbon, the more it’s capable of absorbing. The trick is to first remove all carbon deposits, paying close attention to the areas where it adheres most deeply. Then flatten out all surfaces with fine silicon paper. Next smooth all areas. Then begin polishing. It’s possible to obtain a mirror finish that carbon cannot adhere to. But it’s no good polishing without first flattening and smoothing. Polishing an uneven surface might look good, but it won’t work. I also treat the exhaust chambers the same way. Don’t get me wrong, I hate this job. It can take hours, but the end results are worth all the hard work. Finally I flush out all the fine grit with multiple doses of boiling hot water and washing up liquid, and dry thoroughly in a warm oven before reassembling. PS Almost forgot, you also have to thoroughly wash off all the abrasive deposits after every grade too, otherwise you get fine scratches that never come out!
Hi, I did clean all the carbon from the head and the valves, but I did not polish them as you say you did.. I love to see the work that people like you do, as it takes a lot of time and a hell of a lot of patience. Hats off to you. I also love to see the ports that people polish too. I am not that skilled I feel. I like parts to be clean, but I haven't got the skill to clean them to the standard that you do. Thanks for your comments.
@@RestorationBiker Oh cool. I missed that in your vid. I’m not sure it’s skilled work. It’s actually some of the most tedious and mind numbingly monotonous work imaginable. You just have to be extremely careful to miss the valve seats. Recognising the nature of the job is helped by looking at the surface under as much magnification as possible, at each stage. The other skill if you like is cleanliness. I learned that from sharpening woodworking tools with Japanese water stones. If there’s any residue of the coarser stone on the blade when you get to the white stone, the blade is scratched and the white stone is ruined! It’s nasty work, but carefully used Dremel type tools and improvised pads help a lot. Good luck with your projects. Thank you for sharing.
@@G58 Oh yes it is skilled work. Because it is tedious that is what gives you the skill to work through it. I love doing detailing on my cars .I love it because of the finished item. But doing it is very tedious which is why most people don't do it.. I cleaned the drivers side of my sons car the other day, and he cleaned the passengers side. We compared the result. It was amazing how different they looked. But it took me about an hour more to do my side.. Attention to detail is king. You are a master at it. Well done.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! Makes it look easy-peasy :D I'm doing valve adjustment right now and was scared of loosing the timing when taking of the cams, but looking at your video there's nothing to worry about. I zipp-tied the camchain to the gears, but then it went loose and moved one tooth at the crank so I was terrified it will not match ever again, but now I see I can just take off the chain and move it one tooth on the cam gear.
Hi, brilliant, glad you were helped by the video. That is the main reason I do these videos . Fellow motorcyclists the world over are a great bunch, and it is very nice to know that I have helped someone with their bike. Take care, and ride safe.
Sir, there is a possibility that i may replace my head gasket but i need to eliminate the possibility of having a cracked head. So, i wonder if you can explain how to inspect the head and narrow down the issue to head gasket replacement only. My symptoms are milky oil, missing coolant from coolant reservoir, bubbles inside the coolant reservoir tank, oil stain in the coolant reservoir tank. The bike had bad water pump shaft and seals initialy. I thought i could replace them and it shoul be ok but i am still getting above mentioned symptoms. Thank you.
Hi, yes, you have a bag of symptoms there. You will have to remove the head and try to let the head gasket 'stay in position. Then you will be able to examine it in the EXACT position that it has been in. You may be able to see immediately where the 'blow' is. If you do then you must examine the head and the block at that point. Use a magnifying glass to get the best look at what has happened.. At best you can get the head 'skimmed' or replace it as a whole. The big problem is the block. If you have any 'marks' which don't polish out on the seal face of the block. Then you may have to consider replacing the block and the head. Or get a replacement engine. This is the worst case scenario that I am painting here. But it gives you an idea of where you have got to go. Hope this helps. Feel free to get back in touch if you have any other questions, I will do my best to help. Take care.
@@RestorationBiker Thank you kindly. Considering the condition of the engine from outside, low miles of 13K, how strong it pulls and responsiveness from this well reputable rotax, i am crossing my fingers for the head gasket replacement only. My understanding from your message is that the head must be completely removed to be examined sufficiently and one can't just spend some time looking at it while it is still bolted to the lower end of the engine. I wanted to clarify this, since i am gathering my parts, in which case i need to get a gasket for the bottom of the head as well, not just the top. Thanks.
@@OutdoorFaruk Hi, Yes I would remove the head and carry out a full inspection of the seal faces on both the head and the block. From what you say, it seems as if you just have a blown gasket. I would expect that the failure of the gasket occurred when you had your trouble with the water pump seals. I would expect that as a result of that the engine overheated and blew the gasket as a result. Take your time and do it bit by bit. Feel free to contact me if you need any help or advice. I am happy to help.
@@RestorationBiker Thank you. Just ordered the parts from the motobins. I appreciate the support.
@@RestorationBiker Meanwhile, i loaned a compression tester but there is a bit confusion on how to perform the test since the bike has decompresser built in. Some people do it with the valve cover on, some off. They mention disabling the decompresser...
Hmmmm... it's a little too late now, but some manuals state that the one-way bearing from the electric starter should be changed every 50,000 km. The bearing is located behind the alternator magnet,
Hi, yes that is the 'sprag' clutch. It is one of the common problems on these bikes. At least it can be done with the engine in the frame. Unlike the Triumph triple which has to have the engine removed and completely stripped before you can gain access to it!!!
@@RestorationBiker Yes, it fell apart close to home for me. Fortunately, I parked on a hill so I could start the engine to push and drive down the hill. Unscrewing the nut on the magnet shaft drove me crazy, I ended up cutting it off with a chisel.
P.S. very nice restoration.
@@kresimirvalentak1946 Wow you were lucky to get it home.. Yes I used my impact wrench to get that nut off. Did you get the rotor off ok
@@RestorationBiker The rotor remained intact, I just turned the nut into a blooming rose. I had to buy a new one for $1. When I destroyed the nut, I realized that I might have to wait for the original one from the BMW service, but I found the same one at the hardware store. I bought a special tool to remove the rotor.
@@kresimirvalentak1946 Thats great you were lucky then. Hope all went well with the rebuild
Nice job!!!! Is it possible to change head gasket while the engine is ON the bike? Any special tools except torque wrench?
Hi, Yes you can do a head gasket whilst the engine is fitted to the bike. But, I think you may have to remove the head studs before you can remove the head
Yes you can do it in situ but you have to grab the studs with pliers and remove them first. It's a mess but i have done it. Had to lap the head with sandpaper after boiling off and accidentally riding with no coolant. Still going strong lol inbreakable engine.
Hi ! Mine when i start the engine immediately start to heat up
Sounds as if you have a head gasket failure. Does it throw the water out of the header tank?
You got the torquing sequence wrong... Check the hyenes manual
Hi, yes there are a few different manuals some do contradict others. The main bolts to 'torque' up properly, are, the four main head bolts. It is important that these are done in the normal 'criss-cross' pattern. The torque settings that I gave in the video were the ones shown in my manual. I did not have a Haynes manual for this bike., hence why my manual stated a different setting or sequence. I don't normally give torque settings in my videos as there are so many different ways to do it.. Feel free to follow your manual. The important thing is that they are done up in stages. thanks for your comments.
@@RestorationBiker right, its very confusing! It's not the only thing thats confusing on this bike as different manuals seem to have different info.
I finally was able to do my head gasket in the frame today.
I closed the head and now i gotta put everything else back together, i hope it holds.
Can i ask you, how do the edges of the gasket look at the front of the engine?
I'm starting to worry my head warped but i didnt check as i did it in the frame.
My old gasket was leaking a very small amount of coolant from the front of the gasket and the angles.
And the new gasket looks like the old one once on, the edges of the gasket on the front are a bit more "in"
And at the rear, the gasket sticks out more
@@LosSerpent Hi, the most important thing with head gaskets is that you must always buy a good quality replacement, as there are a few 'very poor' gaskets out there. Also ensure that the gasket fits the location stubs on the block. I would be a bit concerned about it being a bit 'in' at the front and 'out' at the back. Certainly needs to be looked at. I have just opened a patreon account where I will look at peoples problems in great detail. You can send me a video or photos of your engine and I will give you a full report on what I think you should do.. Let me know if you need any help. Take care.
@@RestorationBiker alright ill check your patreon out, i doubt the gasket i got is bas tho as the old original gasket also looked like that so i think if i might have a warped head...
The replacement gasket i got, the brand is "athena" dunno if that's good or not
@@LosSerpent i yes an athena gasket is quite a good brand.. So it probably isn't a faulty gasket. Need to see the gasket face, and the block face too
I’m curious, why did you only clean the piston crown and not the combustion chamber? Looks a right sooty mess. I appreciate that it’s a faff, but hugely rewarding.
There’s also a theory that it doesn’t make any difference to the running of the engine, but every one I’ve done has always run better.
The reason is because if there’s a layer of dense carbon adhered to the piston crown and not the combustion chamber, it encourages more to get deposited. Eventually bits break off and can cause damage to the piston skirt, rings, bore and exhaust valves and seats.
Also, during each induction stroke, a proportion fuel is absorbed by the hot carbon deposits. It’s impossible to gauge how much, but it’s quite a large area, and the thicker the carbon, the more it’s capable of absorbing.
The trick is to first remove all carbon deposits, paying close attention to the areas where it adheres most deeply.
Then flatten out all surfaces with fine silicon paper. Next smooth all areas. Then begin polishing.
It’s possible to obtain a mirror finish that carbon cannot adhere to. But it’s no good polishing without first flattening and smoothing. Polishing an uneven surface might look good, but it won’t work.
I also treat the exhaust chambers the same way. Don’t get me wrong, I hate this job. It can take hours, but the end results are worth all the hard work.
Finally I flush out all the fine grit with multiple doses of boiling hot water and washing up liquid, and dry thoroughly in a warm oven before reassembling.
PS
Almost forgot, you also have to thoroughly wash off all the abrasive deposits after every grade too, otherwise you get fine scratches that never come out!
Hi,
I did clean all the carbon from the head and the valves, but I did not polish them as you say you did.. I love to see the work that people like you do, as it takes a lot of time and a hell of a lot of patience. Hats off to you. I also love to see the ports that people polish too. I am not that skilled I feel. I like parts to be clean, but I haven't got the skill to clean them to the standard that you do. Thanks for your comments.
@@RestorationBiker Oh cool. I missed that in your vid.
I’m not sure it’s skilled work. It’s actually some of the most tedious and mind numbingly monotonous work imaginable. You just have to be extremely careful to miss the valve seats. Recognising the nature of the job is helped by looking at the surface under as much magnification as possible, at each stage.
The other skill if you like is cleanliness. I learned that from sharpening woodworking tools with Japanese water stones. If there’s any residue of the coarser stone on the blade when you get to the white stone, the blade is scratched and the white stone is ruined!
It’s nasty work, but carefully used Dremel type tools and improvised pads help a lot.
Good luck with your projects. Thank you for sharing.
@@G58 Oh yes it is skilled work. Because it is tedious that is what gives you the skill to work through it. I love doing detailing on my cars .I love it because of the finished item. But doing it is very tedious which is why most people don't do it.. I cleaned the drivers side of my sons car the other day, and he cleaned the passengers side. We compared the result. It was amazing how different they looked. But it took me about an hour more to do my side.. Attention to detail is king. You are a master at it. Well done.
Nice one bruv.
Thanks. I try
Help me with some advice please
Hi, yes no problem, happy to help. Let me know what the problem is and I will happily help
Muy bueno .🇨🇷 de costa rica .
Many thanks.