I drill a 2mm hole in the centre of the Hornby buffer stops, insert a tiny red LED (which are really cheap) add a high ohm resistor to regular the brightness I want and solder legs to the track below the buffer stop. Because it is a DCC controlled layout, the buffer lights are a good indicator that power is flowing to those extremities of the track.
Peco SL-42 hydraulic buffer stops kit seems to be the most realistic for 1960s city stations. (not mentioned in skill cast but on the far left of Dave's display).
To make it look even more accurate lift the outer end of the track (aft of the buffer stop). In reality the weight of locomotives, coaches and wagons force the track downwards and the unused end does not get pushed down.
For the Peco kit built one that is filled with coal, your pre-prepared one looks different to the one in the actual kit. I ordered seven of the packs shown and have just made them, but there are no holes for the rails to go through? I’m guessing I just need to cut my track short and place it off the track?
Great video. I'm an American modeler into OO , I use Kato HO scale Unitrack and was wondering if OO buffer stops would fit onto it. Do any bufferstops work well for raised roadbed track?
Unfortunately no. I have Hornby OO buffers and they stay in place by clipping to the bottom of the track. The KATO Unitrack leaves very little space under the rails, I tried clipping Hornby buffers in place and it doesn't work.
Hi, as has been mentioned a lot of the 'clip on' bufferstops won't work with the Unitrack system, however those demonstrated on the video that sit on top of the rail, such as Peco's ST-270, shouldn't have any issues.
Doesn't seem to be any mention of cast metal buffer stops, made by some of the smaller manufacturers, often to pre-grouping designs. When fitting these, remember to isolate the piece of rail they're on, otherwise you'll get a permanent short circuit.
Hi Peter, we mainly cover items that are available to buy from ourselves, although we regularly include other items where relevant too. You're right though, for some of the more obscure bufferstop designs, cast kits are the way to go (especially with your tip RE isolating the track)
I've just come across footage if some tests on buffer stop designs carried out by the LNER in September 1945. You can find it here: www.yfanefa.com/record/11069 The last type tested became a BR standard design.
Hi Paul, sometimes its quite tricky to 'do the modelling' and also get a good shot with the closeup camera, but thanks for the feedback. I'll investigate a few options on angles to see if there's any better 'shots'! - Dave
Lots of lovely close ups of hands over the bits being described or assembled.
Dave makes something so simple come to life, another superb interesting video 💪
I drill a 2mm hole in the centre of the Hornby buffer stops, insert a tiny red LED (which are really cheap) add a high ohm resistor to regular the brightness I want and solder legs to the track below the buffer stop. Because it is a DCC controlled layout, the buffer lights are a good indicator that power is flowing to those extremities of the track.
Thanks a lot... very clear explanation of all types of buffer stops..
Peco SL-42 hydraulic buffer stops kit seems to be the most realistic for 1960s city stations. (not mentioned in skill cast but on the far left of Dave's display).
To make it look even more accurate lift the outer end of the track (aft of the buffer stop). In reality the weight of locomotives, coaches and wagons force the track downwards and the unused end does not get pushed down.
That's a great tip Neil and one that didn't come to mind in the stream. Thanks for sharing.
@@HattonsModelRailways you're welcome. The other tip is the ballasting can be as rough as you like behind the buffer stop.
I was just taking photos of a buffer I want to replicate, these look almost the same
will that o gauge buffer fit peco flat bottom
For the Peco kit built one that is filled with coal, your pre-prepared one looks different to the one in the actual kit. I ordered seven of the packs shown and have just made them, but there are no holes for the rails to go through? I’m guessing I just need to cut my track short and place it off the track?
I have a 2008 Echo Classic Rail train set and I'm having problems keeping the tracks together, can anyone help me.
Dave, are you trying to wreck the place? Lol. I have a penchant to do that whenever I go shopping.
Great video. I'm an American modeler into OO , I use Kato HO scale Unitrack and was wondering if OO buffer stops would fit onto it. Do any bufferstops work well for raised roadbed track?
Unfortunately no. I have Hornby OO buffers and they stay in place by clipping to the bottom of the track. The KATO Unitrack leaves very little space under the rails, I tried clipping Hornby buffers in place and it doesn't work.
Hi, as has been mentioned a lot of the 'clip on' bufferstops won't work with the Unitrack system, however those demonstrated on the video that sit on top of the rail, such as Peco's ST-270, shouldn't have any issues.
Doesn't seem to be any mention of cast metal buffer stops, made by some of the smaller manufacturers, often to pre-grouping designs. When fitting these, remember to isolate the piece of rail they're on, otherwise you'll get a permanent short circuit.
Hi Peter, we mainly cover items that are available to buy from ourselves, although we regularly include other items where relevant too. You're right though, for some of the more obscure bufferstop designs, cast kits are the way to go (especially with your tip RE isolating the track)
If anyone's interested in the development of the KATO Class 800, you may want to check out SHIGEMON's latest video.
I've just come across footage if some tests on buffer stop designs carried out by the LNER in September 1945. You can find it here: www.yfanefa.com/record/11069
The last type tested became a BR standard design.
Hi Dave. Did learn a little from this video, but a shame about the views of the back of your hand (as pretty as it was - LOL).
Hi Paul, sometimes its quite tricky to 'do the modelling' and also get a good shot with the closeup camera, but thanks for the feedback. I'll investigate a few options on angles to see if there's any better 'shots'! - Dave
Here’s how to do it nice and close…. Move your hands !!!!!
It's just a plastic set.