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Hi, I am looking at getting an AC. The model they recommend is a 2.5 ton unit with a Seer of 15.2. It is Single stage because it says two stages are only available in 3.5 ton units. I’m in SD and we may have several weeks of above 90 then a day or two at a time throughout the summer. I don’t like using the ac so I mostly put it on if we are above 85 or for a high humidity. The unit below has a cost savings of $573 but he said that is mostly used in rental properties. It seems the only difference between the two units is the Seer. This one is 13.4. They say that I can get a tax credit up o $600 on the high efficiency unit. That would cover the difference in cost but it is “up to”. If we have to itemize to get the credit we wouldn’t qualify. So unless I’m missing something I think we’re better off with the less expensive unit.
This sounds right if the rebate doesn't qualify because of deductions or having to itemize that's kind of silly but it's not an uncommon scenario. I swear these rebates are kind of ridiculous sometimes lol, it's like "do you want me to get a more efficient unit or what Uncle Sam get your story straight" 😂
Can you do a video on standby or phantom load on some of your systems like the Diakin? I heard some inverter systems while efficient while running but when not running use like 50 watts all the time.
That's an interesting point I've not heard about inverters. Familiar with phantom power but not specific to inverters... I guess I could hook up a meter to the circuit and watch it for a month. A video like "is phantom power jacking up your electric bill?" might be interesting... in the summer there's not much "phantom" usage right now though, lol it's pretty much on 24/7
Thanks for your very informative video. I don't know anything about this subject, but I just bought a condo and need to replace my AC (HVAC?). Sadly, I'm in Indiana. I need to do more research, but this is a good beginning, for sure.
Right on glad you found it informative, for a condo you'll probably go for a base model honestly just because your bills are typically pretty low. I had a small 800' apartment at one point and in the middle of summer our bills were no more than $60-70 and middle of winter maybe hits about the same so there's usually not a cost incentive to go for the high end stuff
Thank you for your presentation. I live in Tucson, AZ. It helped me choose my 14 SEER2 3 ton single stage unit. I was wondering whether I needed the 2 stage unit. But you answered that question very well.
Looking for a new 18kBTU Mitsubishi mini split for my garage in SoCal. Deciding between a 16, 18 and 22 SEER. Is it worth it to go for the 22 SEER which is $1,000 more than the 16 SEER? Am I getting more features in the 22 SEER over the 16 SEER. Will I save enough in the efficiency to justify the added cost? Thanks.
Depends how much you run it but the 18 or 22 seer will just be quieter probably but check the specs it will tell you decibel ratings. SEER is actually a formula so it’s definitely more efficient, if you wanted a “ballpark” I’d say 20% less to operate ? But would have to see the specs… if it’s just for a garage I would probably get the cheaper one but that’s just me
Thank you for clarifying the myth of the 2 stage efficiency, yesterday I chose the basic 1 stage-14.3 Seer over the $2,500 pricier 2 stage because my research also concluded that the xtra $ only buys more comfort but not necessarily the higher efficiency claimed. My proof of this is the fact that there's absolutely no hard comparison data between 1 and 2 stage units to be found, but you can easily find charts and calculators when it comes to compare the different Seer ratings. If they were so efficient, manufacturers would rub that data all over your face. 😆
Your welcome! I agree it's hard to clarify. The only thing I've witnessed is first hand how efficient inverters are like the Daikin Fit or VRV / VRF units because I can measure the amp draw on start up and they are MUCH more efficient...
my home equipped with 10 seer single stage system. i was eyeing for high seer system which was two stage system. my contractor told me cost to high because it a total different ducking system. (diameter). to stay one stage system. it that true?
No that’s not true, I would get a second opinion. You might have undersized ductwork but inverter or multistage systems have the same ducting requirements as single stage systems. Sizing of ducts comes down to what tonnage of equipment the ductwork can support
Here’s something that’s not said enough, the most efficient system if connected to ductwork in an attic can perform poorly. You would think that by now we would design buildings and systems so ductwork is no longer installed in attics. Currently the nations largest builder is selling homes near me for 550K with 2500 square foot single zone systems with attic ducts. I met the contractor doing the blower door test and I can’t help but wonder if it really is meeting the requirements of 3.5 air exchanges per hour.
If the ducts are buried they’re pretty Efficient but this is why mini splits always have higher seer ratings for Sure… ductwork does cause efficiency loss!
Having installed systems in an attic you create many air leaks even if you are meticulous. It’s even worse if the installation is a retro in a hot attic. If the ducts are insulated to r8 and sealed better than average you still are in a harsh environment that between cycles will get hot or cold.
i feel like im getting robbed here. I got a estimate on AC. here in southern california. They quote me at 6k for a AC ONLY Condenser & Evaporator (410a upgrade): INCLUDES:- AC PRO 14-16 SEER Single Stage Condensing Unit.. i need help. WTF is a AC PRO AC. i really like the zoning technology.
Sounds like a generic brand, not a bad price but just a basic generic single stage system probably. If that’s the brand it’s probably just a private label
For more videos like this on how you can get the best HVAC for your home and avoid common mistakes, make sure you’re subscribed to the channel here youtube.com/@TheHVACDopeShow?sub_confirmation=1
Hi, I am looking at getting an AC. The model they recommend is a 2.5 ton unit with a Seer of 15.2. It is Single stage because it says two stages are only available in 3.5 ton units. I’m in SD and we may have several weeks of above 90 then a day or two at a time throughout the summer. I don’t like using the ac so I mostly put it on if we are above 85 or for a high humidity. The unit below has a cost savings of $573 but he said that is mostly used in rental properties. It seems the only difference between the two units is the Seer. This one is 13.4. They say that I can get a tax credit up o $600 on the high efficiency unit.
That would cover the difference in cost but it is “up to”. If we have to itemize to get the credit we wouldn’t qualify. So unless I’m missing something I think we’re better off with the less expensive unit.
This sounds right if the rebate doesn't qualify because of deductions or having to itemize that's kind of silly but it's not an uncommon scenario. I swear these rebates are kind of ridiculous sometimes lol, it's like "do you want me to get a more efficient unit or what Uncle Sam get your story straight" 😂
Can you do a video on standby or phantom load on some of your systems like the Diakin? I heard some inverter systems while efficient while running but when not running use like 50 watts all the time.
That's an interesting point I've not heard about inverters. Familiar with phantom power but not specific to inverters... I guess I could hook up a meter to the circuit and watch it for a month. A video like "is phantom power jacking up your electric bill?" might be interesting... in the summer there's not much "phantom" usage right now though, lol it's pretty much on 24/7
Thanks for your very informative video. I don't know anything about this subject, but I just bought a condo and need to replace my AC (HVAC?). Sadly, I'm in Indiana. I need to do more research, but this is a good beginning, for sure.
Right on glad you found it informative, for a condo you'll probably go for a base model honestly just because your bills are typically pretty low. I had a small 800' apartment at one point and in the middle of summer our bills were no more than $60-70 and middle of winter maybe hits about the same so there's usually not a cost incentive to go for the high end stuff
Thank you for your presentation. I live in Tucson, AZ. It helped me choose my 14 SEER2 3 ton single stage unit. I was wondering whether I needed the 2 stage unit. But you answered that question very well.
Glad I could help!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it thank you!
Thanks for your great information!
Our pleasure thanks for watching!
Looking for a new 18kBTU Mitsubishi mini split for my garage in SoCal. Deciding between a 16, 18 and 22 SEER. Is it worth it to go for the 22 SEER which is $1,000 more than the 16 SEER? Am I getting more features in the 22 SEER over the 16 SEER. Will I save enough in the efficiency to justify the added cost? Thanks.
Depends how much you run it but the 18 or 22 seer will just be quieter probably but check the specs it will tell you decibel ratings. SEER is actually a formula so it’s definitely more efficient, if you wanted a “ballpark” I’d say 20% less to operate ? But would have to see the specs… if it’s just for a garage I would probably get the cheaper one but that’s just me
Thank you for clarifying the myth of the 2 stage efficiency, yesterday I chose the basic 1 stage-14.3 Seer over the $2,500 pricier 2 stage because my research also concluded that the xtra $ only buys more comfort but not necessarily the higher efficiency claimed. My proof of this is the fact that there's absolutely no hard comparison data between 1 and 2 stage units to be found, but you can easily find charts and calculators when it comes to compare the different Seer ratings. If they were so efficient, manufacturers would rub that data all over your face. 😆
Your welcome! I agree it's hard to clarify. The only thing I've witnessed is first hand how efficient inverters are like the Daikin Fit or VRV / VRF units because I can measure the amp draw on start up and they are MUCH more efficient...
my home equipped with 10 seer single stage system. i was eyeing for high seer system which was two stage system. my contractor told me cost to high because it a total different ducking system. (diameter). to stay one stage system. it that true?
No that’s not true, I would get a second opinion. You might have undersized ductwork but inverter or multistage systems have the same ducting requirements as single stage systems. Sizing of ducts comes down to what tonnage of equipment the ductwork can support
Here’s something that’s not said enough, the most efficient system if connected to ductwork in an attic can perform poorly. You would think that by now we would design buildings and systems so ductwork is no longer installed in attics. Currently the nations largest builder is selling homes near me for 550K with 2500 square foot single zone systems with attic ducts. I met the contractor doing the blower door test and I can’t help but wonder if it really is meeting the requirements of 3.5 air exchanges per hour.
If the ducts are buried they’re pretty
Efficient but this is why mini splits always have higher seer ratings for
Sure… ductwork does cause efficiency loss!
Having installed systems in an attic you create many air leaks even if you are meticulous. It’s even worse if the installation is a retro in a hot attic. If the ducts are insulated to r8 and sealed better than average you still are in a harsh environment that between cycles will get hot or cold.
i feel like im getting robbed here. I got a estimate on AC. here in southern california. They quote me at 6k for a AC ONLY Condenser & Evaporator (410a upgrade): INCLUDES:- AC PRO 14-16 SEER Single Stage Condensing Unit.. i need help. WTF is a AC PRO AC. i really like the zoning technology.
Sounds like a generic brand, not a bad price but just a basic generic single stage system probably. If that’s the brand it’s probably just a private label