I have said the same thing, this guy is easily worth ten times what they are paying him, no matter how much that is. He is the very reason I come here.
I definitely think you would have to scour the earth for a more likable personality in a spokes person. Plus he's a guitar player. As Paul Gilbert once said, "if aliens ever tried to take over the planet, they'd come down and realize guitar players were all so awesome that they'd just leave us all alone".
I don't usually write comments but anyone who puts down Aaron is an idiot. This is one of the best done, most informative and detailed channels out there! As an essential employee I am ever grateful to come home each day to unwind to a relaxing, informative and sometimes hilarious Warmoth video! Please keep doing what you do man, you're an inspiration to us in these times and your videos ARE ALWAYS top notch! 👌 plus you are the most chill, coolest dude ever! The comparison videos you do are THE gold standard and even my gf watches your videos and has subscribed to your channel! Now THAT'S impressive! You should also keep a record of the comments that inspire you and spur you on to keep doing what you do and keep making amazing content and music🎶! Cheers from halfway around the world (Caribbean) to an incredible human being, not to mention amazing guitar player! ❤
@@Riverdeepnwide agreed! No leaving of warmoth is allowed! How else will we get our dose of Aaron doing cool things with awesome guitar parts? When this thing is all over, I will definitely miss having an Aaron video to look forward to everyday 😕
That's why these measurements should remain imperial, not rounded metric, which would be off by half a millimeter. 1 5/8 = 41.275, and 1.65 = 41.9, 1-11/16 = 42.8625
Great video, as always. Btw, the metric nut width measurements (in order of smallest to largest) are as follows: 41.275 mm (1 5/8") (I think of this as "41") 41.91 mm (1.650") (I think of this as "42") 42.8625 mm (1 11/16") (I think of this as "43") 44.45 mm (1 3/4") (I think of this as "45") 47.625 mm (1 7/8") (I think of this as "47" even though it is more accurately “48”.) I'm not surprised you couldn't remember: they don't translate very well in either direction. Keep up the good work!
Hi! Well done! Just to say you don't need that kind of precision on millimeters so: 41.275 = 41 41.91 = 42 42.8625 = 43 44.45 = 45 47.625 = 48 Very easy to remember this way.
I have purchased 5 Warmoth necks in the past 20 years, and you you guys have made it very difficult for me to buy a guitar. Most guitars feel poor by comparison. Recently, I tried a custom guitar made by a nationally recognized luthier with a price tag of $2700, and was pleased to discover that my partscasters equaled or exceeded it for playability. My favorite profiles are the standard thin and SRV, and thank you for introducing me to canary wood it has a wonderful feel unfinished.
You're right and that was the reasoning for wanting the U.S. to convert to the metric system, but like he said, the cost of retooling all of our manufacturing plants was prohibitive for the change. I feel for auto mechanics as they will run in to both on cars these days.
Any system of measurement is only as precise as the person using it. The imperial system is "more precise" in my mind, because it's what I've used all my life and I understand it perfectly. I know exactly what 1.6875 is without even thinking about it. I still sometimes have to go to Google to remind myself what 43mm is in inches. If the rest of the world used imperial and the US used metric, the arguments would almost invariably be flipped.
I’m Canadian. In my job I have to know both. Always converting. No big deal. Both systems of measurement are sexy in their own way. Weird I know. 4 thou of an inch = 0.1 mm....I can go on. For neck relief my good set of Hosco gauges are metric. Humans, including the Americans learn what they need to get what they want. When you want your guitar to be “just right” you become pragmatic.
Kinda.. every metric bolt is made wrong, you can get a 10mm bolt and another 10mm bolt from another company and they are both a slight bit different size.
Was happy to see you guys did the shootout of 25.5" vs 24.75" scale. When this covid stuff blows over, I'd love to see you guys do a shootout between standard placement for a neck pickup and 24-fret reposition.
I used to work in biotech, and toxicology, and everything is metric in science, so learning it is a requirement. I worked my way up from running CNC machines to running the entire CNC machine shop, so decimal inch is second nature, and fractions are just automatically converted to decimal inch. It's easy once you're used to it.
Guitar necks are the most difficult to personalize. There are so many options to think about and all influence the feel of the neck and how it will play. Here’s a list I came up with in my latest guitar journey quest: 1. Scale length. Super important! 2. Neck width 3. Neck thickness 4. Neck shape profile 5. Fret sizes 6. Fret material 7. Fretboard radius 8. Finish and wood choice All these factors have an impact! 15 years ago I had no idea why one guitar played better than the other. Now with Google and UA-cam I learned so many things! I bought guitars and sold them and then tried out other guitars. Every guitar I write down all the measurements. By doing so I learn which options suits me best. This is what I discovered thus far: 1. Shorter scale length works best for me. 25.5 and up is too long for me. It is causing me wrist pain 2. That being said shorter scale means also less fret space. That I have to compromise with smaller frets. So I prefer smaller fret size, medium-jumbo 3. Evo gold frets work best for me soundwise and feelwise and also very durable. 4. I prefer satin neck finish because it is smooth to play 5. Walnut neck and maple fretboard 6. Neck not too thick and not too thin. How thick exactly I’m not sure yet because nut width and neck profile also plays a big part! 7. Because I play 7-string the nut width has to be not longer than 1.889/48mm. The Kiesel DC700 I have right now is wider with 48,5 mm/1.91 inch and it makes the neck for me more difficult to play 8. Fretboard radius between 14-20. Still not sure which one exactly becaise other factors play a part too! The only thing left for me is neck profile. I tried several but still not sure which I like the most.
These videos are great for Warmoth’s marketing. Good to have you Aaron! You always explain the details and inspire confidence in the quality of your products. Please make sure Warmoth continues to focus on quality. Quality is everything when choosing a custom neck. Thanks! 🎉
Look forward to these vids every day... I landed a warmoth wizard profile neck with 6100 frets and a 1 11/16" (aka 43mm) nut width, and fell in love with it. It reminds me alot of an old roadstar II neck I had years ago , with the added benefits of higher frets and better string spacing at the nut. BTW I was 5 yrs old during the bicentennial, and remember how great that time was .
Neck profile ties together inextricably with nut width - now that is information I can use and I never heard this before but it makes total sense! Love this guy!
Love it. I was 13 in 1976 living on Long Island. I remember watching the boats coming into New York harbor all decorated, spraying water. It was majestic.
Another great video man! I got two necks of 1 11/16” nut width with 59 and standard thin respectively, love them both. Thanks for bringing up the relationship of nut width and neck shape, really helps a lot on my next build!
As a drafter and machinist, I also wish we were on metric. And I absolutely loathe decimal inches, you can't measure them with the average ruler/tape measure.
darkiee69 - I think that was the joke, taking the piss out of imperial fractions based on 16ths and 64ths, etc. At least measuring in conventional Metric fractions doesn't end up sounding like we're talking about musical notation.
These are some of the best Warmoth videos - Got my first Warmoth order at the end of February, not painted my body yet but put the neck on my old Fender body for now, had a 1-5/8 (41mm) nut on a Standard Thin profile with 6105 SS frets.. Neck is amazing, perfect size for me (was a bit of a gamble but it worked out) and the frets didn't need any work, just awesome.
Excellent video with a really helpful description of the ‘nature’ of the different neck profiles and the relationship to nut width. Currently looking to buy a Warmoth neck and this was great. Thanks!
When you remember the 1-5/8 is 1.625 it makes the 1.650 easier to grasp. I love the 1-3/4 or 1.750 nut width myself, I play a little fingerstyle and occasionally jazz and it’s just easier to navigate through chords. I’ve been wanting to build a mahogany HH Tele for a while and when I actually get ahead money wise I’m going to get the neck and body from Warmoth. It’s great that you can get exactly what you want from them and build up a guitar that is exactly what you want.
Spent a couple of hours choosing Warmoth necks last night but was't sure about the different specs, then this pops up on UA-cam today so there you go! Thanks for explaining all that!!!
Thanks for that Aaron! I am also a child of the 70s and I did relate to your comments about the time. Once I discovered Warmoth, there was no turning back. All of my F style guitars are Warmoth. I had actual Fenders but they were all paling in comparison with my Warmoth guitars and were moved on. By now I have seven Warmoth guitars (and a few necks) and these are the guitars that I play and gig all of the time because they feel right and they sound right (despite quite a few others in the stable). My favourite neck profile is actually fatback. It sits so good in my hands (and I don't have huge hands) that makes most other guitars feel a bit meh. I am also madly in love with roasted maple necks - so good! I don't want to have laqucer ever again on a neck. I recall one particular time that, I think, is very characteristic of the company that Warmoth is - I am based in Germany and getting exotic woods shipped is a bit of a production. So, I had ordered a neck with a Rosewood fingerboard and had to do all the CITES paperwork. A person from Warmoth got in touch with me to help - she was super helpful and very patient, despite all of my ignorance - that was Sandy Hosfelt. We had a nice E-Mail exchange and it all turned out to be good. But it was only years later that it occurred to me that she is the actual CEO of Warmoth - How cool is that! It definitely made me appreciate he company even more. If I hadn't run out of space at home, I'd have another dozen Warmoth guitars ... but for now, I'll rock my Warmoth guitars during lock down! Thanks for everything - you guys are doing great work and what you put out is second to none!
We are lucky to have you on UA-cam. Warmoth is lucky to have you in their company. We are glad you are here and doing this. These videos are one of the best things to come out of this quarantine situation.
I was opposed to the metric system until I worked for a Japanese company. I was forced to use it, now I love it. So easy and simple. And for a while I did the conversion in my head to imperial, but then I just accepted the measurement for what it is. 10 mm is 10 mm. Not almost 3/8”. The only thing I still use is gallons and MPH. Every thing else is metric
I am a civil engineer from Belgium, and a guitar enthusiast, so we use the metric system. I agree with you that, and because electric guitars originated in the US, the imperial system has been used, and so it becomes the name for a measurement. Conversion to the metric system for those things is not really needed, you can just keep using it, it's engrained in the history. Anyone can convert it easily. The same applies to string gauges. The imperal system is still largely used for things people have known for a long time, but even in countries where the imperial system for those still lives on, scientists have already long been using the metric system.
Thanks for the explanation! I've had a Warmoth Tele in Goldtop Gold with a right-handed reverse maple neck (standard thin) for over 15 years, and it's still my favorite guitar. Thanks for all the great videos, and I hope to build another Warmoth sometime soon.
I’m happy you’re putting these videos out. I don’t have to call and ask as many questions as I once needed to. It’s like having the help desk show up in my feed. I’m not sure I would have asked about some things, but now I know what things I will ask about.
My dilemma is that I don't want to commit to a replacement neck for my Strat without knowing if I'm going to like the neck profile. This might sound like a crazy solution, but if you were able to offer for a reasonable price a "pick and choose three pack" of plastic neck molds, I would totally purchase that to see which one I like best. I might choose the Standard thin, Clapton and SRV necks for example. Once I can put my hand on it, even a cheap plastic mold and no strings, I think I would know enough to remove the doubt and make a decision. Just a thought.
Funny enough I did. Love the 59 Roundback. But it ended up being a “Tele” build with two P90s. It’s honestly the most resonant and alive guitar out of the 10 that I own. The Lollar pickups help but the neck is something special. I tried just the neck on one of my Fender American Original 60s Tele and it somehow just felt and sounded better to my ear.
Thanks for the videos, hate that you guys, like most of us, are stuck at home. On the bright side, it gives you a chance to put out some informative videos, and gives me a chance to fully plan out my first Warmoth build. Hang in there and stay safe.
Literally all Americans I know want the metric system and agree that it's better, all my teachers growing up would shit on the imperial system, we just use it anyways lol
Hi mate, really enjoying your posts. Very interesting and informative. As an Aussie, I converted to the decimal system in 1966 and the metric system gradually in the seventies. The only thing that didn’t make the transition very well were surfboards and wave size. I still ride a 6’4” and when the surf is 8foot I stay home these days. I am too old for that sh**t.
Aaron - love your videos. Very informative. I pieced two Warmoth guitars together. We are of the same tribe. Can’t wait to see more vids. Thanks for what you do for the guitar geeks in this world. Coming at you from Zürich, Switzerland.
As someone who owns a 43mm les paul and a 40.6mm tele, i love how easy the tele’s neck plays! I wish epiphone would cut the 43mm crap out and give us a 42mm lp!
I have big hands and fat fingers - my preferred neck width is 45-46mm. Unfortunately, Warmoth don't do anything in this size range - 1 3/4" is 44.5mm and the Superwide 1 7/8" neck is 47.8mm. So how about a 1 13/16th" = 46mm neck? BTW, from the configurator, it also looks like it's not possible to have the Superwide neck fully scalloped. PS. Keep up the great work, Aaron - your intelligent, informed, detailed and objective vids are among the best out there.
Nut sizes in imperial measurements are impossible to deal with. But he has a point. I know exactly what I getting with a 9" radius neck. And have no idea what size that is in millimeters. I just picked up on this channel a month ago after using Warmoth products for years. I have to say I have enjoyed the chats in front of your computer as much as the studio produced videos.
I like the 59 round back with 1 11/16 ,got one from you all in 2018 rosewood ,Im playing it rite now ,.Its on a tele players with humbuckers ,Thanks for great necks ,I do have a standard thin on a strat,And it really is close to my 97 AM standard strat, Both my warmouths are conversion necks,I used the strat conversion on a build ,It came out great .
I built my Warmoth Nashville Tele in 2016 with in stock parts. I chose gold top swamp ash body and flamed roasted maple neck with Standard Thin profile and 1-11/16" nut width. The neck carve has felt very familiar to me from day one and it's comfortable for all types of playing. Sometimes I feel like it needs more meat to it and I'm definitely gonna try wolfgang profile for my next build.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to build what fits me & this is not something talked about much, but is extremely important to consider. I played a Buddy Guy signature stat & the soft V that felt perfect in my hand. The offsets now have me intrigued & I want to try one. It makes sense because it's the same shape as your hand. I love my Strat, but want one with a shorter scale length, so I'm hoping to piece something together with Warmoth parts. I love the insight you guys provide. (I wish I knew about hand fatigue from thin necks back in the 80's), I too remember the bicentennial (fun times) & also had to learn metric system as well as inch. I'm all good until it gets below the decimal point & my brain screams for thousandth of an inch rather than microns. Americans own twice as many wrenches, so we have that going.
I don't know why but it makes me happy that you say "pop". Some places you only hear "soda" and they don't know what you're saying when you ask for "pop".
I was unsure about which neck to buy...but with the props to the wolfgang neck...that's what I'm getting. 1-5/8, maple, reverse headstock, wolfgang profile. Boom!! Thanks Aaron
Bicentennial WOW!! That brings back some memories ... our town made a dock at the local lake that was stars and stripes we would swim out and hang in the sun all day ... 1978 1979 Hotel California , Boston Dire Straits CARS and Ice cold Lowenbrau Beer ...life was good !
Very very cool you mentioned the freedom train, a wonderful moment kinda lost to history (and currently rusting away in Baltimore) love your videos and look forward to ordering my first custom warmoth guitar and neck 🤟🏼
joe thompson I’m looking at going for SRV neck. Have you ever played an original 50’s strat neck? If so can you elaborate on the difference in thickness? I want something about that speed but with the taper.
Thanks Aaron. This video, for me, is a bit of a teaser, but really valuable at the same time. I've been playing "forever" but to this day, couldn't tell you what my preferences are. I know it when I put it in my hand, but can't articulate it. I suppose I can get a good caliper and start measuring everything, but even then not sure I will unlock the secrets of what I prefer. When I am looking for a neck (I've assembled a fair number of s-style partscasters over the years), I usually look for a Fender, Mexican made, rosewood neck, with the 9.5" radius. More often than not, they fit me better than others. No idea how that vague description fits Warmoth's offerings. But I can't say what shape I like (definitely like it on the thinner side - hate the baseball bat necks!), or which frets are best for me. So., "Mexican/rosewood" is my starting point...then it is crap shoot as to what actually shows up if I buy it. With tongue-firmly-in-cheek: can Warmoth please send me about 10-20 sample necks with specs kinda similar to a mexican strat, and then I will know which is which?! I will buy one or two, and send the rest back!
I love Warmoth. I don’t understand why more electric guitars don’t use a 1 3/4 nut. I have large hands and I have a bit of arthritis at this point in my life. The 1 3/4 nut feels so much more comfortable to play.
@@thebigleone1066 Yeah. I started with classical guitar training so I get used to wide nut width when I play with nylon string by finger. But in electric guitar with pick, it is a lot different. I have to sold my Parker Nitefly because the Nut width is much wider than my old Charvel, Ibanez which I feel really comfortable. My hand is small Asian guy's hand (164 cm height only). So that may be the main reason. Totally personal thing, I believe
Thank you for these videos, I love them! If is not too much to ask, is it possible for you to make a video on how exactly one affects the other (nut width & neck profile)? For instance: “if you use the widest nut with a modern C, this and this will happen” or “if you use a fat neck with the narrowest nut, your fingers will struggle to reach the 6th string”... something like that, I don’t know hehe Greetings from Costa Rica, and thanks again!
Thanks for these videos. I'm a (very) small business USA builder, but I find myself using metric measurements. Like you said, it's easier when adding and subtracting, and I find it more accurate when it matters most ( like: .52mm or .02047244" ). I'm still using those "named" imperial measurements (scale length & fret placement), but I have started using mm for the nut and string spacing. Best of all was the profile talk. Add a conical radius (compound) to the fretboard on a wolfgang, and I bet that the cross sections are interesting :)
I’m in the US so the scale length in inches is what I understand and expect. But I will die on the “nut width should be in millimeters” hill. My first electric guitar was from a British company that listed the nut width spec in mm. And I use my first guitar as a frame of reference for nut width because it’s unusually wide (45mm). You’re right; the common denominator and 1.650 make imperial so hard to put in order from smallest to largest. (I’ve never tried a 42mm nut width, but I would like to. I went from a 45mm to a 43mm nut width and suddenly I could fret barre chords like a champ! A game changer. My 45mm nut width guitar is still my favorite, but it is something I’d change if it was an option!)
I like these videos too! I’ve learnt to love fatback necks with 1 11/16 nuts. As a bass player it still feels small and tiny but somewhat familiar! Ive bought i think 5 of these so far!
Love your videos. I have a standard thin and a 59 roundback and love them both. The 59 is easier on my thumb but the standard feels a little more modern. I would put my 2 Warmoth guitars up against any $5000 guitar as far as quality goes. Top quality and top service.
Are you familiar with Art & Luthier? The neck on my Legacy model is the best profile I've ever felt...it's life changing! It also features a 1.72" Nut Width. If you are familiar with this, what Warmoth profile is closest?
Yay for the internet for us metric users (NZ) to do conversions, I find imperial soooo hard, I think it is great that you put the metric measurement on the website so everyone else in the world can understand what they are purchasing :-) I really like the 59 round back profile. I don't mind standard thin, the couple I have purchased are quite different to each other, ie, one is a lot flatter and thinner than the other near the heal, which I don't like. But I do love Warmoth products in general. Don't worry, some people are nice and a LOT of people are NOT. Take care and long live Warmoth!
You always hear fun made of american imperial system, but only recently (after 30 years) I found out americans actually know metric to some point and use it almost daily. I absolutely approve 25.5" over 648 mm or whatever it is. It's just so much simpler number to remember and process and like you said it's been everywhere forever. For nuts and bridge widths I'm all confused because you don't deal with them too often and trying to find out which you have and what place in time it belongs to (fender history). Millimeters don't speak that much either in this because you don't know what the measure you need anyway. The floyd R2, R3 marking is actually great. Simple to understand and doesn't confuse you about the exact measurement, just the context.
Got a Wizard with 1.75" nut. Noticed the think neck made my thumb sore after playing a while. Sold it and bought a fatback. Never had problems with thumb soreness again.
Michael yes, I've found too that different profiles do different things to the hand, wrist and forearm. Usually it comes up after a couple of consecutive gigs. For comfort in the long game eventually for me I found tending towards thicker necks, soft V to C or asymmetrical, and most importantly 7-1/4 to 10" radius max and that has to work in conjunction with the back profile. It sure takes time to find out what's just right for us but when you get there ... Ahhhhhh, peace!
Love what you guys do.....I appreciate all your comparison video's and the extent that you go to inform your potential clients....I am a bigger player and my dream guitar is a HSS Swamp Ash Jazzmaster, rear routed, TOM bridge, 1" extended stop tailpiece, angled neck pocket with superwide Warmoth roasted maple neck, pau ferro fret board, 12" straight radius, wizard profile, SS6115 frets, black TUSQ nut :).....one day.....heaven
Thanks for this topic Aaron, I'm glad I tuned in for this one! I've never built a guitar from Warmoth, but I've thought about it for a long time. When I'm ready to build one, I'll probably want to start with a simple guitar like a Tele style, since I don't own one. I do however own several Strats, and I know what neck profiles I like and what I don't. My most current Strat is a 2007, with a modern "C" neck, and I don't like that one at all. In my hands, it feels more like a "D" shape than a "C." The shoulders feel somewhat cumbersome and constantly distract me from my playing to where I need to move my wrist, or position my hand to be able to play what I'm trying to do. I guess I'm more comfortable with the vintage neck profiles of my 1964, 1980, and 1983 Strat necks, my favorite being the profile of my 1983 '57 RI Strat, which has a thin, fast soft "V" profile. If I could impose on you for just a minute, could you go a little deeper in your description of the "V" neck please? Is it thinner or deeper compared to a Standard thin? Or, should I order a neck like this without a finish, and take it to my local Luthier, to re-shape it more to my liking? What would you do in this situation? Thanks
I agree that scale lengths have always been imperial, but I have never ever seen nut widths in imperial until Warmoth, even on US sites. Its always been 42mm, 43mm and so on.
You are correct with the 42mm - 46mm lol. I prefer the metric system as well...just way easier to deal with and I'm not very smart as it is and fractions and Inches compute less to me than the metric does. Thanks for this video!
I like 1.687 nut width. Although Warmoth QC department often writes something like 1.691 or 1.692 on the heel of the neck. I really appreciate the fact that someone at Warmoth has taken the time to do QC check. Unfortunately other makers will send out anything that looks like a guitar neck and let the customer deal with it.
As someone who grew up in a metric system world, those imperial number nut widths drive me crazy! I have a much easier time thinking about 38, 40 or 43 mm. Scale lengths in inch are fine, that's something I got used to. And they are inch only at least, without crazy fractions. But I still convert them to 628, 648, 864 and 889 mm in my head.
Standard & metric & decimals, oh my! Glad I know them all(I messed with my one of my trainees by asking him to pass me the .750 wrench, busted myself), & now that I have google to convert them all. Shout out to the Freedom Train, I was a wee pup, but I remember it.
Another superb video packed with knowledge. Thanks Aaron. One clarification, the Metric system is expressed in decimal format whereas Imperial is used both in fractional and decimal expressions as in 3/4" = .75"
Aaron, I have an idea for you guys: If you guys offered a six inch profile sample piece for folks unsure of what profile we would favor, I'm sure they would be a great help to folks like myself who haven't a clue of which profile we'd favor. It could be made out of scrap or some cheap wood like pine or whatever. I would be happy to spend a few dollars on it plus shipping to avoid being unhappy with a neck I thought I would like but wasn't after I held it. Plus, it could generate a few extra dollars for the company to help on those slow days that all factories have from time to time. What's the likelihood of something like this?
Ehm, but the neck profile changes from nut to heel quite a bit. Plus the fretboard widens towards the heel which alters the perception of the neck in the hand. If the fretboard has a constant radius. If it's a compound one, things get even more complicated. Which 6-inch portion of the neck do you consider as the reference?
Aaron is one of the main reasons I buy from Warmoth. Drops knowledge every single time. Give this man a raise! 😁
I have said the same thing, this guy is easily worth ten times what they are paying him, no matter how much that is. He is the very reason I come here.
I thought he was the owner 😱😱😱
I definitely think you would have to scour the earth for a more likable personality in a spokes person. Plus he's a guitar player. As Paul Gilbert once said, "if aliens ever tried to take over the planet, they'd come down and realize guitar players were all so awesome that they'd just leave us all alone".
Absolutely 💯 %. I was hooked years ago after I saw his mahogany, ash,alder comparison test 👍.
I had been thinking the same. He's definitely the face of Warmoth. @@LosRockson
I don't usually write comments but anyone who puts down Aaron is an idiot. This is one of the best done, most informative and detailed channels out there! As an essential employee I am ever grateful to come home each day to unwind to a relaxing, informative and sometimes hilarious Warmoth video! Please keep doing what you do man, you're an inspiration to us in these times and your videos ARE ALWAYS top notch! 👌 plus you are the most chill, coolest dude ever!
The comparison videos you do are THE gold standard and even my gf watches your videos and has subscribed to your channel! Now THAT'S impressive!
You should also keep a record of the comments that inspire you and spur you on to keep doing what you do and keep making amazing content and music🎶!
Cheers from halfway around the world (Caribbean) to an incredible human being, not to mention amazing guitar player! ❤
Wow...thanks Jonathan! Can I use you as a reference at my next job interview? :)
Aaron you're not allowed to leave Warmoth.
❤️
@@Riverdeepnwide agreed! No leaving of warmoth is allowed! How else will we get our dose of Aaron doing cool things with awesome guitar parts?
When this thing is all over, I will definitely miss having an Aaron video to look forward to everyday 😕
You are the super fan boy or girl.
Hes such a likable guy
Rounded:
1 5/8" - 41mm
1.650" - 42mm
1 11/16" - 43mm
1 3/4" - 45mm (44.5mm)
1 7/8" - 48mm
That's why these measurements should remain imperial, not rounded metric, which would be off by half a millimeter. 1 5/8 = 41.275, and 1.65 = 41.9, 1-11/16 = 42.8625
I absolutely love these videos. They are comforting in times like these.
You're the Bob Ross of guitars, so wholesome and relaxing to listen to. Thank you for the amazing content.
Great video, as always. Btw, the metric nut width measurements (in order of smallest to largest) are as follows:
41.275 mm (1 5/8") (I think of this as "41")
41.91 mm (1.650") (I think of this as "42")
42.8625 mm (1 11/16") (I think of this as "43")
44.45 mm (1 3/4") (I think of this as "45")
47.625 mm (1 7/8") (I think of this as "47" even though it is more accurately “48”.)
I'm not surprised you couldn't remember: they don't translate very well in either direction.
Keep up the good work!
Well done Dan thank you 👍🏻
I go:
41mm (my fave)
42mm
43mm
44mm
48mm (7-string).
Hi! Well done! Just to say you don't need that kind of precision on millimeters so:
41.275 = 41
41.91 = 42
42.8625 = 43
44.45 = 45
47.625 = 48
Very easy to remember this way.
I have purchased 5 Warmoth necks in the past 20 years, and you you guys have made it very difficult for me to buy a guitar. Most guitars feel poor by comparison. Recently, I tried a custom guitar made by a nationally recognized luthier with a price tag of $2700, and was pleased to discover that my partscasters equaled or exceeded it for playability. My favorite profiles are the standard thin and SRV, and thank you for introducing me to canary wood it has a wonderful feel unfinished.
What nut width do u have on the SRV?
@JD-rv7sf 1 11/16". I find it very comfortable, but if you play with your thumb over the top you do need larger than average hands.
I believe that the metric system is the more precise of the 2. I wish we went with that one too
You're right and that was the reasoning for wanting the U.S. to convert to the metric system, but like he said, the cost of retooling all of our manufacturing plants was prohibitive for the change. I feel for auto mechanics as they will run in to both on cars these days.
It depends. It's a decimal system....not so good for divisions of 3 for example.
Any system of measurement is only as precise as the person using it. The imperial system is "more precise" in my mind, because it's what I've used all my life and I understand it perfectly. I know exactly what 1.6875 is without even thinking about it. I still sometimes have to go to Google to remind myself what 43mm is in inches.
If the rest of the world used imperial and the US used metric, the arguments would almost invariably be flipped.
I’m Canadian. In my job I have to know both. Always converting. No big deal. Both systems of measurement are sexy in their own way. Weird I know. 4 thou of an inch = 0.1 mm....I can go on. For neck relief my good set of Hosco gauges are metric. Humans, including the Americans learn what they need to get what they want. When you want your guitar to be “just right” you become pragmatic.
Kinda.. every metric bolt is made wrong, you can get a 10mm bolt and another 10mm bolt from another company and they are both a slight bit different size.
Was happy to see you guys did the shootout of 25.5" vs 24.75" scale. When this covid stuff blows over, I'd love to see you guys do a shootout between standard placement for a neck pickup and 24-fret reposition.
I used to work in biotech, and toxicology, and everything is metric in science, so learning it is a requirement.
I worked my way up from running CNC machines to running the entire CNC machine shop, so decimal inch is second nature, and fractions are just automatically converted to decimal inch. It's easy once you're used to it.
Guitar necks are the most difficult to personalize. There are so many options to think about and all influence the feel of the neck and how it will play. Here’s a list I came up with in my latest guitar journey quest:
1. Scale length. Super important!
2. Neck width
3. Neck thickness
4. Neck shape profile
5. Fret sizes
6. Fret material
7. Fretboard radius
8. Finish and wood choice
All these factors have an impact! 15 years ago I had no idea why one guitar played better than the other. Now with Google and UA-cam I learned so many things! I bought guitars and sold them and then tried out other guitars. Every guitar I write down all the measurements. By doing so I learn which options suits me best. This is what I discovered thus far:
1. Shorter scale length works best for me. 25.5 and up is too long for me. It is causing me wrist pain
2. That being said shorter scale means also less fret space. That I have to compromise with smaller frets. So I prefer smaller fret size, medium-jumbo
3. Evo gold frets work best for me soundwise and feelwise and also very durable.
4. I prefer satin neck finish because it is smooth to play
5. Walnut neck and maple fretboard
6. Neck not too thick and not too thin. How thick exactly I’m not sure yet because nut width and neck profile also plays a big part!
7. Because I play 7-string the nut width has to be not longer than 1.889/48mm. The Kiesel DC700 I have right now is wider with 48,5 mm/1.91 inch and it makes the neck for me more difficult to play
8. Fretboard radius between 14-20. Still not sure which one exactly becaise other factors play a part too!
The only thing left for me is neck profile. I tried several but still not sure which I like the most.
How can anybody send you mean tweets? You're such a likable guy
Maybe you know......I can’t get a straight answer from anyone....Will a Fender Strat Neck fit a Squire Affinity Strat body?
@Short For A Stormtrooper Big For Your Mom than you for your experience.
There jealous!
These videos are great for Warmoth’s marketing. Good to have you Aaron! You always explain the details and inspire confidence in the quality of your products. Please make sure Warmoth continues to focus on quality. Quality is everything when choosing a custom neck. Thanks! 🎉
Look forward to these vids every day... I landed a warmoth wizard profile neck with 6100 frets and a 1 11/16" (aka 43mm) nut width, and fell in love with it. It reminds me alot of an old roadstar II neck I had years ago , with the added benefits of higher frets and better string spacing at the nut.
BTW I was 5 yrs old during the bicentennial, and remember how great that time was .
Excellent to read this because that's exactly what I'm ordering lol
Neck profile ties together inextricably with nut width - now that is information I can use and I never heard this before but it makes total sense! Love this guy!
Gosh, I like Aaron so much!
Each time I watch Warmoth vids on UA-cam I get so glad as if I meet one of my beloved family members or dear friends.
Love it. I was 13 in 1976 living on Long Island. I remember watching the boats coming into New York harbor all decorated, spraying water. It was majestic.
Aaron, these videos are a beautiful ray of sunshine in my day. Keep them going and keep on picking
Another great video man!
I got two necks of 1 11/16” nut width with 59 and standard thin respectively, love them both. Thanks for bringing up the relationship of nut width and neck shape, really helps a lot on my next build!
As a drafter and machinist, I also wish we were on metric. And I absolutely loathe decimal inches, you can't measure them with the average ruler/tape measure.
amen
As a drafter and machinist, I expect you would have a pair of calipers beside you 24/7.
@@briandavis812 But metric doesn't use fractions.
darkiee69 - I think that was the joke, taking the piss out of imperial fractions based on 16ths and 64ths, etc.
At least measuring in conventional Metric fractions doesn't end up sounding like we're talking about musical notation.
The US never converted to the metric system, because they couldn’t find an equivalent for the shit load!
These are some of the best Warmoth videos - Got my first Warmoth order at the end of February, not painted my body yet but put the neck on my old Fender body for now, had a 1-5/8 (41mm) nut on a Standard Thin profile with 6105 SS frets.. Neck is amazing, perfect size for me (was a bit of a gamble but it worked out) and the frets didn't need any work, just awesome.
Excellent video with a really helpful description of the ‘nature’ of the different neck profiles and the relationship to nut width. Currently looking to buy a Warmoth neck and this was great. Thanks!
When you remember the 1-5/8 is 1.625 it makes the 1.650 easier to grasp. I love the 1-3/4 or 1.750 nut width myself, I play a little fingerstyle and occasionally jazz and it’s just easier to navigate through chords. I’ve been wanting to build a mahogany HH Tele for a while and when I actually get ahead money wise I’m going to get the neck and body from Warmoth. It’s great that you can get exactly what you want from them and build up a guitar that is exactly what you want.
I find myself really looking forward to these daily videos from Aaron!!! Thanks!!
I really enjoy the way you talk and explain. Much love from Iran.
Spent a couple of hours choosing Warmoth necks last night but was't sure about the different specs, then this pops up on UA-cam today so there you go! Thanks for explaining all that!!!
Thanks for that Aaron! I am also a child of the 70s and I did relate to your comments about the time.
Once I discovered Warmoth, there was no turning back. All of my F style guitars are Warmoth. I had actual Fenders but they were all paling in comparison with my Warmoth guitars and were moved on. By now I have seven Warmoth guitars (and a few necks) and these are the guitars that I play and gig all of the time because they feel right and they sound right (despite quite a few others in the stable).
My favourite neck profile is actually fatback. It sits so good in my hands (and I don't have huge hands) that makes most other guitars feel a bit meh. I am also madly in love with roasted maple necks - so good! I don't want to have laqucer ever again on a neck.
I recall one particular time that, I think, is very characteristic of the company that Warmoth is - I am based in Germany and getting exotic woods shipped is a bit of a production. So, I had ordered a neck with a Rosewood fingerboard and had to do all the CITES paperwork. A person from Warmoth got in touch with me to help - she was super helpful and very patient, despite all of my ignorance - that was Sandy Hosfelt. We had a nice E-Mail exchange and it all turned out to be good. But it was only years later that it occurred to me that she is the actual CEO of Warmoth - How cool is that! It definitely made me appreciate he company even more.
If I hadn't run out of space at home, I'd have another dozen Warmoth guitars ... but for now, I'll rock my Warmoth guitars during lock down! Thanks for everything - you guys are doing great work and what you put out is second to none!
Thanks so much Frank! Yep, Sandy is the best. :)
We are lucky to have you on UA-cam. Warmoth is lucky to have you in their company. We are glad you are here and doing this. These videos are one of the best things to come out of this quarantine situation.
I appreciate these videos. I also love seeing all the customs with their various features that make them unique. Thanks Aaron!
I was opposed to the metric system until I worked for a Japanese company. I was forced to use it, now I love it. So easy and simple. And for a while I did the conversion in my head to imperial, but then I just accepted the measurement for what it is. 10 mm is 10 mm. Not almost 3/8”. The only thing I still use is gallons and MPH. Every thing else is metric
Just got my charvel-style 1 Humbucker Strat with Gibson-scale standard thin neck and it is glorious. Bless you guys at warmoth, I’m so frickin happy!
I am a civil engineer from Belgium, and a guitar enthusiast, so we use the metric system. I agree with you that, and because electric guitars originated in the US, the imperial system has been used, and so it becomes the name for a measurement. Conversion to the metric system for those things is not really needed, you can just keep using it, it's engrained in the history. Anyone can convert it easily. The same applies to string gauges. The imperal system is still largely used for things people have known for a long time, but even in countries where the imperial system for those still lives on, scientists have already long been using the metric system.
Thanks for the explanation! I've had a Warmoth Tele in Goldtop Gold with a right-handed reverse maple neck (standard thin) for over 15 years, and it's still my favorite guitar. Thanks for all the great videos, and I hope to build another Warmoth sometime soon.
I’m happy you’re putting these videos out. I don’t have to call and ask as many questions as I once needed to. It’s like having the help desk show up in my feed. I’m not sure I would have asked about some things, but now I know what things I will ask about.
My dilemma is that I don't want to commit to a replacement neck for my Strat without knowing if I'm going to like the neck profile. This might sound like a crazy solution, but if you were able to offer for a reasonable price a "pick and choose three pack" of plastic neck molds, I would totally purchase that to see which one I like best. I might choose the Standard thin, Clapton and SRV necks for example. Once I can put my hand on it, even a cheap plastic mold and no strings, I think I would know enough to remove the doubt and make a decision. Just a thought.
when in doubt, go with the 59 roundback
Funny enough I did. Love the 59 Roundback. But it ended up being a “Tele” build with two P90s. It’s honestly the most resonant and alive guitar out of the 10 that I own. The Lollar pickups help but the neck is something special. I tried just the neck on one of my Fender American Original 60s Tele and it somehow just felt and sounded better to my ear.
Thanks for the videos, hate that you guys, like most of us, are stuck at home. On the bright side, it gives you a chance to put out some informative videos, and gives me a chance to fully plan out my first Warmoth build. Hang in there and stay safe.
How refreshing to hear an American admit the benefits of the Metric system. The rest of the world already worked it out 😂
Yeah... even the Brits... :-O
Literally all Americans I know want the metric system and agree that it's better, all my teachers growing up would shit on the imperial system, we just use it anyways lol
Great info Aaron! Very helpful to those of us new to guitar "anatomy". Please keep em coming! 🙏
Just got a Warmoth neck with the ‘59 Roundback carve. Freaking amazing neck!
I like the combination of both. I do the scale lenght in imperial, but my nut is 43mm and my bridge is 54mm. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for doing all these videos, Aaron. Love the increased number. Information is great too, as always.
Hi mate, really enjoying your posts. Very interesting and informative. As an Aussie, I converted to the decimal system in 1966 and the metric system gradually in the seventies. The only thing that didn’t make the transition very well were surfboards and wave size. I still ride a 6’4” and when the surf is 8foot I stay home these days. I am too old for that sh**t.
Aaron - love your videos. Very informative. I pieced two Warmoth guitars together. We are of the same tribe. Can’t wait to see more vids. Thanks for what you do for the guitar geeks in this world. Coming at you from Zürich, Switzerland.
As someone who owns a 43mm les paul and a 40.6mm tele, i love how easy the tele’s neck plays! I wish epiphone would cut the 43mm crap out and give us a 42mm lp!
I have big hands and fat fingers - my preferred neck width is 45-46mm. Unfortunately, Warmoth don't do anything in this size range - 1 3/4" is 44.5mm and the Superwide 1 7/8" neck is 47.8mm.
So how about a 1 13/16th" = 46mm neck?
BTW, from the configurator, it also looks like it's not possible to have the Superwide neck fully scalloped.
PS. Keep up the great work, Aaron - your intelligent, informed, detailed and objective vids are among the best out there.
Thanks for your daily vids ,gives me something to look forward to .
Nut sizes in imperial measurements are impossible to deal with. But he has a point. I know exactly what I getting with a 9" radius neck. And have no idea what size that is in millimeters.
I just picked up on this channel a month ago after using Warmoth products for years. I have to say I have enjoyed the chats in front of your computer as much as the studio produced videos.
I like the 59 round back with 1 11/16 ,got one from you all in 2018 rosewood ,Im playing it rite now ,.Its on a tele players with humbuckers ,Thanks for great necks ,I do have a standard thin on a strat,And it really is close to my 97 AM standard strat, Both my warmouths are conversion necks,I used the strat conversion on a build ,It came out great .
I built my Warmoth Nashville Tele in 2016 with in stock parts. I chose gold top swamp ash body and flamed roasted maple neck with Standard Thin profile and 1-11/16" nut width. The neck carve has felt very familiar to me from day one and it's comfortable for all types of playing. Sometimes I feel like it needs more meat to it and I'm definitely gonna try wolfgang profile for my next build.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to build what fits me & this is not something talked about much, but is extremely important to consider. I played a Buddy Guy signature stat & the soft V that felt perfect in my hand.
The offsets now have me intrigued & I want to try one. It makes sense because it's the same shape as your hand.
I love my Strat, but want one with a shorter scale length, so I'm hoping to piece something together with Warmoth parts. I love the insight you guys provide. (I wish I knew about hand fatigue from thin necks back in the 80's),
I too remember the bicentennial (fun times) & also had to learn metric system as well as inch.
I'm all good until it gets below the decimal point & my brain screams for thousandth of an inch rather than microns. Americans own twice as many wrenches, so we have that going.
best video on describing neck shapes and nut width!! Way to go Aaron!!
I don't know why but it makes me happy that you say "pop". Some places you only hear "soda" and they don't know what you're saying when you ask for "pop".
Haha! And some places they say "Coke", meaning any kind of pop. As in "What kind of Coke would like?" "Oh....I'll take a root beer, thanks."
Guys you're great! 👍 You make many guitar dreams come true! Keep on with your mission!
I can listen to you all day man.
Thank you for this thoughtful description of measurements regarding guitars. I will put this to good use
I was unsure about which neck to buy...but with the props to the wolfgang neck...that's what I'm getting. 1-5/8, maple, reverse headstock, wolfgang profile. Boom!! Thanks Aaron
Warmoth customer since 1985. Still the best guitar necks and bodies made. Oh, 1 11/16” nut width on every one!
Outstanding information. Many thanks kind sir!! No scathing criticisms here. Just much respect. 🙏
Thanks for the info. Now I understand the neck profiles better.
Bicentennial WOW!! That brings back some memories ... our town made a dock at the local lake that was stars and stripes we would swim out and hang in the sun all day ... 1978 1979 Hotel California , Boston Dire Straits CARS and Ice cold Lowenbrau Beer ...life was good !
Very very cool you mentioned the freedom train, a wonderful moment kinda lost to history (and currently rusting away in Baltimore) love your videos and look forward to ordering my first custom warmoth guitar and neck 🤟🏼
Thank you Aaron for these videos. Very informative and enjoyable.
Great info, thanks!
I also enjoyed the Bicentennial year.
I have an appreciation for the Metric System too!
You've helped me a lot I just got the SRV profile and I really love it it feels like a true vintage Fender
joe thompson I’m looking at going for SRV neck. Have you ever played an original 50’s strat neck? If so can you elaborate on the difference in thickness? I want something about that speed but with the taper.
You're a great story teller! Very useful information
I’m super super late to the party, but wanted to say I love your vids! Just getting familiar with these things and learning a lit! Thanks so much!
Thanks Aaron. This video, for me, is a bit of a teaser, but really valuable at the same time. I've been playing "forever" but to this day, couldn't tell you what my preferences are. I know it when I put it in my hand, but can't articulate it. I suppose I can get a good caliper and start measuring everything, but even then not sure I will unlock the secrets of what I prefer. When I am looking for a neck (I've assembled a fair number of s-style partscasters over the years), I usually look for a Fender, Mexican made, rosewood neck, with the 9.5" radius. More often than not, they fit me better than others. No idea how that vague description fits Warmoth's offerings. But I can't say what shape I like (definitely like it on the thinner side - hate the baseball bat necks!), or which frets are best for me. So., "Mexican/rosewood" is my starting point...then it is crap shoot as to what actually shows up if I buy it. With tongue-firmly-in-cheek: can Warmoth please send me about 10-20 sample necks with specs kinda similar to a mexican strat, and then I will know which is which?! I will buy one or two, and send the rest back!
Thank you so much for clearing up the nut widths. Much appreciated.
I love Warmoth. I don’t understand why more electric guitars don’t use a 1 3/4 nut. I have large hands and I have a bit of arthritis at this point in my life. The 1 3/4 nut feels so much more comfortable to play.
That 1 3/4 neck will be weird in my small cold dead hand.
@@patrolduty8715 Many Martin, Taylor and Takamine, etc. acoustic guitars are 1 3/4.
@@thebigleone1066 Yeah. I started with classical guitar training so I get used to wide nut width when I play with nylon string by finger. But in electric guitar with pick, it is a lot different. I have to sold my Parker Nitefly because the Nut width is much wider than my old Charvel, Ibanez which I feel really comfortable. My hand is small Asian guy's hand (164 cm height only). So that may be the main reason. Totally personal thing, I believe
Thank you for these videos, I love them! If is not too much to ask, is it possible for you to make a video on how exactly one affects the other (nut width & neck profile)? For instance: “if you use the widest nut with a modern C, this and this will happen” or “if you use a fat neck with the narrowest nut, your fingers will struggle to reach the 6th string”... something like that, I don’t know hehe
Greetings from Costa Rica, and thanks again!
Thanks for these videos. I'm a (very) small business USA builder, but I find myself using metric measurements. Like you said, it's easier when adding and subtracting, and I find it more accurate when it matters most ( like: .52mm or .02047244" ). I'm still using those "named" imperial measurements (scale length & fret placement), but I have started using mm for the nut and string spacing. Best of all was the profile talk. Add a conical radius (compound) to the fretboard on a wolfgang, and I bet that the cross sections are interesting :)
You're a very calm soul
Excellent video, best quality guitars I ever played are still all Warmoth.
Thank you for these videos man!
Love them.
I'm glad we got (at least) a month more of these to go!
Thanks, Aaron. Good info. Off subject, I really like the 40th anniversary dyes - fabulous, delicious!
Thanks! We have some more 40th Anniversary limited runs in store...some fully-built guitars, and some vintage surfboard-inspired bodies!
Everytime I see an awesome youtuber using Reaper , I recognize content is the most important part of videos again ( Reaper is really awesome actually)
I’m in the US so the scale length in inches is what I understand and expect. But I will die on the “nut width should be in millimeters” hill.
My first electric guitar was from a British company that listed the nut width spec in mm. And I use my first guitar as a frame of reference for nut width because it’s unusually wide (45mm).
You’re right; the common denominator and 1.650 make imperial so hard to put in order from smallest to largest.
(I’ve never tried a 42mm nut width, but I would like to. I went from a 45mm to a 43mm nut width and suddenly I could fret barre chords like a champ! A game changer. My 45mm nut width guitar is still my favorite, but it is something I’d change if it was an option!)
I like these videos too! I’ve learnt to love fatback necks with 1 11/16 nuts. As a bass player it still feels small and tiny but somewhat familiar! Ive bought i think 5 of these so far!
Love your videos. I have a standard thin and a 59 roundback and love them both. The 59 is easier on my thumb but the standard feels a little more modern. I would put my 2 Warmoth guitars up against any $5000 guitar as far as quality goes. Top quality and top service.
Are you familiar with Art & Luthier? The neck on my Legacy model is the best profile I've ever felt...it's life changing! It also features a 1.72" Nut Width. If you are familiar with this, what Warmoth profile is closest?
Yay for the internet for us metric users (NZ) to do conversions, I find imperial soooo hard, I think it is great that you put the metric measurement on the website so everyone else in the world can understand what they are purchasing :-)
I really like the 59 round back profile. I don't mind standard thin, the couple I have purchased are quite different to each other, ie, one is a lot flatter and thinner than the other near the heal, which I don't like. But I do love Warmoth products in general.
Don't worry, some people are nice and a LOT of people are NOT.
Take care and long live Warmoth!
I am loving your videos! I have learned so much. Thank you sir.
I'll stick with your bass necks, seems like I have fewer options to select from. P or J nut width. Keeps it easy! Getting the itch for a new bass.
You always hear fun made of american imperial system, but only recently (after 30 years) I found out americans actually know metric to some point and use it almost daily.
I absolutely approve 25.5" over 648 mm or whatever it is. It's just so much simpler number to remember and process and like you said it's been everywhere forever. For nuts and bridge widths I'm all confused because you don't deal with them too often and trying to find out which you have and what place in time it belongs to (fender history). Millimeters don't speak that much either in this because you don't know what the measure you need anyway. The floyd R2, R3 marking is actually great. Simple to understand and doesn't confuse you about the exact measurement, just the context.
How to clean and polish roasted would be great. Love the videos. You’re about my age so fun to remember way back.
Got a Wizard with 1.75" nut. Noticed the think neck made my thumb sore after playing a while. Sold it and bought a fatback. Never had problems with thumb soreness again.
Michael yes, I've found too that different profiles do different things to the hand, wrist and forearm. Usually it comes up after a couple of consecutive gigs.
For comfort in the long game eventually for me I found tending towards thicker necks, soft V to C or asymmetrical, and most importantly 7-1/4 to 10" radius max and that has to work in conjunction with the back profile.
It sure takes time to find out what's just right for us but when you get there ... Ahhhhhh, peace!
Love what you guys do.....I appreciate all your comparison video's and the extent that you go to inform your potential clients....I am a bigger player and my dream guitar is a HSS Swamp Ash Jazzmaster, rear routed, TOM bridge, 1" extended stop tailpiece, angled neck pocket with superwide Warmoth roasted maple neck, pau ferro fret board, 12" straight radius, wizard profile, SS6115 frets, black TUSQ nut :).....one day.....heaven
Thanks for this topic Aaron, I'm glad I tuned in for this one!
I've never built a guitar from Warmoth, but I've thought about it for a long time. When I'm ready to build one, I'll probably want to start with a simple guitar like a Tele style, since I don't own one. I do however own several Strats, and I know what neck profiles I like and what I don't. My most current Strat is a 2007, with a modern "C" neck, and I don't like that one at all. In my hands, it feels more like a "D" shape than a "C." The shoulders feel somewhat cumbersome and constantly distract me from my playing to where I need to move my wrist, or position my hand to be able to play what I'm trying to do. I guess I'm more comfortable with the vintage neck profiles of my 1964, 1980, and 1983 Strat necks, my favorite being the profile of my 1983 '57 RI Strat, which has a thin, fast soft "V" profile.
If I could impose on you for just a minute, could you go a little deeper in your description of the "V" neck please? Is it thinner or deeper compared to a Standard thin? Or, should I order a neck like this without a finish, and take it to my local Luthier, to re-shape it more to my liking?
What would you do in this situation?
Thanks
I agree that scale lengths have always been imperial, but I have never ever seen nut widths in imperial until Warmoth, even on US sites. Its always been 42mm, 43mm and so on.
These videos are excellent information. Keep em coming.
I have 4 fatback necks and I love them. Best neck ever. I put them on my 63 jag 64 jag 65 mustang and my 12 string Tele warmoth build.
Informative session as usual. This helps me a lot.
Does he have a podcast? Dude's voice is so calming...
You are correct with the 42mm - 46mm lol. I prefer the metric system as well...just way easier to deal with and I'm not very smart as it is and fractions and Inches compute less to me than the metric does. Thanks for this video!
I like 1.687 nut width. Although Warmoth QC department often writes something like 1.691 or 1.692 on the heel of the neck. I really appreciate the fact that someone at Warmoth has taken the time to do QC check. Unfortunately other makers will send out anything that looks like a guitar neck and let the customer deal with it.
As someone who grew up in a metric system world, those imperial number nut widths drive me crazy! I have a much easier time thinking about 38, 40 or 43 mm. Scale lengths in inch are fine, that's something I got used to. And they are inch only at least, without crazy fractions. But I still convert them to 628, 648, 864 and 889 mm in my head.
Standard & metric & decimals, oh my! Glad I know them all(I messed with my one of my trainees by asking him to pass me the .750 wrench, busted myself), & now that I have google to convert them all. Shout out to the Freedom Train, I was a wee pup, but I remember it.
Another superb video packed with knowledge.
Thanks Aaron.
One clarification, the Metric system is expressed in decimal format whereas Imperial is used both in fractional and decimal expressions as in 3/4" = .75"
Thanks for the nice videos!
Also your site is very well made and informative. Really appreciate it!
Aaron, I have an idea for you guys: If you guys offered a six inch profile sample piece for folks unsure of what profile we would favor, I'm sure they would be a great help to folks like myself who haven't a clue of which profile we'd favor. It could be made out of scrap or some cheap wood like pine or whatever. I would be happy to spend a few dollars on it plus shipping to avoid being unhappy with a neck I thought I would like but wasn't after I held it.
Plus, it could generate a few extra dollars for the company to help on those slow days that all factories have from time to time.
What's the likelihood of something like this?
Ehm, but the neck profile changes from nut to heel quite a bit.
Plus the fretboard widens towards the heel which alters the perception of the neck in the hand. If the fretboard has a constant radius. If it's a compound one, things get even more complicated.
Which 6-inch portion of the neck do you consider as the reference?