A few things from an OM-2A owner. On my machine, I can run the spindle up to 500 RPM with the door open. That might also work on your machine. Second, I originally thought I could push my machine harder, but then realized that I shouldn't, as that can reduce the spindle life. The 7 hp is required to bring the spindle up to speed, not for milling. Because the spindle is actually quite small, it's not meant to handle anywhere close to that amount of hp when milling. In fact, I have a G-Wizard license that is limited to 1 hp, and the feeds and speeds I use are well below 1 hp.
Hi John! I wonder if there is a setting or parameter that I need to tweak so that it will let me run the spindle slowly with the door open, because at the moment mine won't turn on even to 50 RPM with the door open. I'll Google it, it would be very handy to check tool run out without needing to stick a magnet on the sensor every time. In terms of pushing it, I think I was being too cautious, because I was worried too much about the limitations of the machine. I doubled my WOC and DOC and the cut still sounds the same 😅. I was basically treating it like I used to treat my old Pocket NC, and this machine is a lot bigger than that little guy.
You sound like me the first time i used a ,015 Endmill. I still have it and I did more milling than I thought I could ever do. These things are tough little beasts. I touch them off with them running...
Torque wrench will be your new best friend! Protip - cut your soft jaws clamped on something at the same torque you will be holding your actually parts in - will help keep things straight. Thanks for another video, I like to watch these while I run jobs :)
I've been meaning to get a torque wrench for this for a long time. But I kept putting it off because I wanted to buy a nice one. I should have just gone and got the cheap one a long time ago.
@@AudacityMicro if you want to get super fancy and go down the rabbit hole - fire up a spread sheet and grab a haimer indicator or anything similar. Clamp lightly on the material in your vise, set your indicator to zero on the top and record how much upward movement you get at different torques. You can make yourself a whole torque guide for different material thickness/widths. Some parts I clamp at 20lbs, some at 5lbs. all depends on these values.
Also for op2 on the domed surface, you can put a round shank under it of known size, such as a end mill shank, gage pin, or purpose bought ground hss blank. The tangent surface will stay the same height.
The team i work with makes a similar Er16 Holder; they are good to better than .0002 runout at around .500-.750 from the tip of the extension/holder the best way to get them perfect, is clean everything(taper and seat), once you latch it onto the collet nut, hold both the nut and the tiloc to prevent it from rotating out of the cam groove as you screw it onto the er16 holder. Then use a gage pin and an indicator to tap the holder itself in to run concentric with the er16 holder. Then add your endmill and dial it in from there. The best order of operations: 1) tap in er16 shank holder in concentric to spindle 2) add holder and tap in concentric to holder 3) add tool and check runout and adjust from there. That would be the most optimal way to get everything running concentric.
That's pretty much where I got to in the end, I just needed some trial and error to figure it out 😂. I assume the last little bit of run out I couldn't deal with was either caused by an imperfectly cleaned tool holder, or error in my spindle itself. This machine is like 20 years old after all. It probably needs some TLC in the spindle. I did just see you have Tiloc saw arbors. I used saws a lot on my Tormach, but I haven't seen any arbors I like for this machine. One of yours would be great! I'm not sure I want to know how much they cost 😂, but I'm sure it'll pay for itself pretty quickly.
at work I had to do a feature with a 1/32 end mill into tool steal on a mill that only got up to 4200. Luckly we have a sinker edm so I was able to mill the reverse into graphite. If youre gonna do a lot of other teeny features a sinker edm might be worth the investment as old ones can be gotten at auction for under 5-10k
I would love to get some sort of EDM equipment. I keep running into more parts where it would be handy. It would be a nice high value item I could add to my relatively small shop. I'm limited on what machines I can get through my door, but to my understanding EDMs are aren't large.
Sometimes you want the retractions to happen. Better to find out in the first 5 min. that the tool broke instead of waiting for 2 1/2 hours. Push single block wait for spindle to retract, turn off spindle, inspect tool if OK restart spindle and take off single block to finish.
I maintained CNC machines for many years and am quite surprised that mill was capable of running such fine tooling. Even with the best super precision spindle bearings things like ovality in rotational path are still a thing. Straight run out is an easy fix but when the tool doesn't spin around a single axis point it becomes quite difficult. In metric I wouldn't be surprised if it ran oval by 0.0005mm causing an inconsistent load on the cutter? Normally a machine doing such fine work would use a face mounted spindle like a HSK and pneumatic bearings to sort the micro run out issues. Even the ball screw pitch and motor encoders. Say a super fine pitch ball screw of 4mm pitch and a very fine 2500 pulse encoder on the motor, double the encoder count for a normal reduction drive if its gear or belt driven would give you 1 pulse to 0.0008mm of travel. The very best any machine can do repeatability wise is one count. That also ignores any mechanical variations that stick/slip characteristics of the axis would present. I'm not sure what style of drive the HASS uses but given it's size probably direct so even if it had a 5000 pulse encoder that's very unlikely in such a budget machine it could achieve repeatability well enough not to damage the cutter. My thoughts anyway. Cheers
I'm not saying it's the perfect machine for it, but it's done well so far with small tools. It kinda sucks at big tools, but it handles small tools well. These OM/CM machines are designed for this kind of thing, and running this type of tool isn't unusual. I know some watch makers that use them frequently with the same size, or smaller tools. Though generally with a more reasonable stickout, and higher quality tool holders.
>i have this amazing tiny tool, but i can not show you what it can do on this part because NDA. Then why not just make something tiny for us for demonstration purposes.
Because I'm not a good UA-camr 😂. Sorry about that, I know it would be ideal, but making these parts is actually how I make a living, and at this point I can't afford to spend extra time on parts that won't ever yield me any profit. Hopefully that will change in the near future, I'm starting to get ahead on the jobshop stuff, and my last few videos have actually gotten a semi-reasonable number of views. If that keeps up, I can afford to do some side projects specifically for UA-cam.
Get a cheap laser pointer and a red LED and your multimeter. You can find a red LED in any appliance in the dumpster. Set your multimeter to millivolts or the lowest volts setting and connect it to the leads of the LED. Mount the laser and the LED to your vise, as if the LED was a detector. You should measure a small voltage as the red photons are converted back to electrons in the crystal, making it a crude laser mic. You can "touch off" a spinning tool with it.
There was a +/- .005" tolerance. Fortunately I was able to measure the critical features on this one with gage pins and a gage block. I do definitely need to step up my metrology game though. I've had to turn down jobs that I couldn't measure in the past. An optical comparator and/or a toolmakers microscope will be in the near future for me.
I had thought you were going to scallop the handle as I thought it would feel nice in the hand. It would also make it lay flat. But I do respect your right to choose your own designs and methods.
If this has been a product I would have done quite a bit more iteration. My thought process was that I wanted to make something that was interesting to handle. That started with it being surprisingly heavy. After that I wanted it to have some fun physics when sitting on a table. I wanted it to be able to rock and spin. This kinda worked out. It rocks but doesn't really spin like I wanted it too. If I was going for that a second time, I would have given it a slight spherical radius instead of a cylindrical. The surface texture was also designed to be interesting in the hand, and was modeled after the Tactile Turn pens, but ended up being mostly visual, and kinda "meh" in the texture department. Something like some larger fluting would have done better there. Maybe some combination of sharp corners and smooth curves to provide a contrast.
@@AudacityMicro The way you wanted it to spin reminded me of something. Google "rattleback spinner". You might remember these from years ago. Your project lends itself to a version of that spinner quite nicely. But here I am again, telling you what to do.
@@AudacityMicro Not sure how I lost one reply as the afterthought post I followed it with made it. Here it is again: When you said you wanted it to rock and spin, that made me think of something from the past. Search for "rattleback spinner" on Google. That device lends itself to your bottle opener project quite nicely.
I'm really glad youtube recommended this channel to me today. I've watched through a few of your videos so far and the way you record/edit really makes some laid back yet intriguing content. I'm actually looking to get into machining this year, with zero experience other than nerding out over machining videos haha. How did you get into machining if you don't mind me asking? Unfortunately I don't know any machinists irl!
I'm glad you are enjoying! And I didn't get into machining in a "traditional" manner either. Long story short, I bought a small CNC router, learned on that, sold it, bought a small Sherline lathe, and then later a mill. Learn on those, then sold them and bought a Pocket NC. Actually made money on that, bought an old Tormach, made more money on that, until I sold it to buy my current Tormach, which paid for my Haas. Basically I'm just all self taught, and I've slowly bootstrapped my way through better and better machines. Basically I learned everything on UA-cam, Instagram, and the instamachinist discord.
The practical upper limit on this machine is 3/8", but it's not always happy with that. It does better at 3/16 and 1/4". You can make up for the tool size with the high RPMs
I've been really happy with the Harvey stuff. I'm going to be slowly transitioning all my core tools to Harvey. Right now I just kinda have a mix of stuff, but it'll be good to standardize
The are engraving two flute 0.25mm ball end mills. Really rigid as the tapper goes all the way to the radius. Ive never not staped a normall mill under 1mm. The are always so long.
Can you get in trouble from any copyright or whatever if you were to 3d image a part then reproduce the same part and sell it? Like as long as you didnt include any logo’s or trademarks or serial numbers or anything? Or do u have to get some kinda permission to do it? Just wondering because there’s a hell of a market for certain engine parts that can be machined and sold for a hell of a profit from what the manufacturer is trying to sell them for.. plus the manufacturers product has defects and is made to be unserviceable.. not sure the politics on that whole deal but is something that would put quite a few zeros on my bank account.. i mean id be doing all the work, only the basic form and tolerances would be mapped for the new part and new part would have a few significant iterations..
I think the answer there is "it depends". I personally wouldn't do an exact 1:1 copy of anything, but I wouldn't see any legal or moral issue with making an upgraded version as long as it's different enough. I would be careful with my labeling and marketing to make it very clear that the part you are making is NOT made by the manufacturer. "Compatible with Chevy Engines" not "Chevy Engine parts" for example. Making reproductions of parts that aren't made any more is basically always safe. Companies generally don't care about products they have discontinued. I've never heard of someone getting sued out of the gate for copying a product, you ALWAYS get an angry, but harmless Cease and Desist letter first. It's much cheaper than a lawsuit, so companies start there. TLDR, go for it, if you use common sense you will be fine
I have the same sort of issue w/ my compressor being in a room I want to turn into a sanding/grinding/blasting room. I'm not concerned about noise as much as turning my compressor's environment into a hazardous breathing enviro. I'm moving my compressor, since I have another room on the other side of the wall it's on. Not an easy job w/ a water cooled 80 gal horizontal tank, IR cast iron V2 model 30, but I will appreciate the extra room & the compressor will breath clean air. I suggest you upscale the walls around your air pump or design some damn good filters, (no compressor in our price range has good filters.) The compressor sets there sucking in air. You'd need a sealed room & an exhaust system that'd suck paper off the floor & require chin straps on hats to keep the pump from sucking dirty air from your dungeon. Better to invest a little now than reduce the life cycle of a main component of a shop. Man, I thought a 1/64 end mill made me sweat; I'd be dessicated working w/ an end mill 1/6 the size! Now you gotta go through it, again, because your no-worries final op screwed the pooch. Bummer...
Hmmm, that is a valid point. I hadn't considered the effects on the compressor. I don't think the grinders run enough to be a concern, but the sandblaster do, and the compressor is always running when the blasters are running. I think the vent will go a long way, but some extra filtration is probably necessary.
@@AudacityMicro Glad I commented, then. Is there any way you can make a snorkel for your compressor & avoid the work of cleaning ot the expense of replacement? As long as the diameter is ~50% larger than the intake throat of the compressor, it won't be starving for air. Be cautious about too small if it's very long, as well.
I am not violating anyone's TOS by showing a cylinder, but you are right that I should be a little more careful. I did push it a little farther on this one than I probably should have. At the end of the day, the specific words of the TOS don't matter, they have the power to drop me on a whim. Now that I am picking up a little bit, I will be able to exclusively show non-Xometry parts.
Oh yeah, I've definitely had that thought. I figure they are so expensive because they must have a high infant mortality rate, or whatever the endmill equivalent of that is.
Whenever I got a part on spec with a drawing - there were never additional 5 mil to make it look nice. either you make the part or you dont. You guys are a scam. No Customer would pay you for shit like this.
Dude, I hadn't finished the backside of the part yet. I just shifted my WCS 5 thou lower, eating into the 1/4" of spare stock I had on the backside. I wasn't compromising tolerances at all.
A few things from an OM-2A owner. On my machine, I can run the spindle up to 500 RPM with the door open. That might also work on your machine. Second, I originally thought I could push my machine harder, but then realized that I shouldn't, as that can reduce the spindle life. The 7 hp is required to bring the spindle up to speed, not for milling. Because the spindle is actually quite small, it's not meant to handle anywhere close to that amount of hp when milling. In fact, I have a G-Wizard license that is limited to 1 hp, and the feeds and speeds I use are well below 1 hp.
Hi John! I wonder if there is a setting or parameter that I need to tweak so that it will let me run the spindle slowly with the door open, because at the moment mine won't turn on even to 50 RPM with the door open. I'll Google it, it would be very handy to check tool run out without needing to stick a magnet on the sensor every time.
In terms of pushing it, I think I was being too cautious, because I was worried too much about the limitations of the machine. I doubled my WOC and DOC and the cut still sounds the same 😅. I was basically treating it like I used to treat my old Pocket NC, and this machine is a lot bigger than that little guy.
Hey @JohnSL I follow you also.
oh! I actually ordered from you before. Great stuff. Very pleased. What a coincidence youtube recommended this video.
If you are the Gavin that ordered the meeples, I remember you! I wonder if UA-cam knew we emailed or something 😂
You sound like me the first time i used a ,015 Endmill. I still have it and I did more milling than I thought I could ever do. These things are tough little beasts. I touch them off with them running...
Torque wrench will be your new best friend! Protip - cut your soft jaws clamped on something at the same torque you will be holding your actually parts in - will help keep things straight. Thanks for another video, I like to watch these while I run jobs :)
I've been meaning to get a torque wrench for this for a long time. But I kept putting it off because I wanted to buy a nice one. I should have just gone and got the cheap one a long time ago.
@@AudacityMicro if you want to get super fancy and go down the rabbit hole - fire up a spread sheet and grab a haimer indicator or anything similar. Clamp lightly on the material in your vise, set your indicator to zero on the top and record how much upward movement you get at different torques. You can make yourself a whole torque guide for different material thickness/widths. Some parts I clamp at 20lbs, some at 5lbs. all depends on these values.
Also for op2 on the domed surface, you can put a round shank under it of known size, such as a end mill shank, gage pin, or purpose bought ground hss blank. The tangent surface will stay the same height.
Makes sense! The parallels worked, but they left a unsightly witness mark on the bottom of the part 😕
The team i work with makes a similar Er16 Holder; they are good to better than .0002 runout at around .500-.750 from the tip of the extension/holder the best way to get them perfect, is clean everything(taper and seat), once you latch it onto the collet nut, hold both the nut and the tiloc to prevent it from rotating out of the cam groove as you screw it onto the er16 holder.
Then use a gage pin and an indicator to tap the holder itself in to run concentric with the er16 holder. Then add your endmill and dial it in from there.
The best order of operations:
1) tap in er16 shank holder in concentric to spindle
2) add holder and tap in concentric to holder
3) add tool and check runout and adjust from there. That would be the most optimal way to get everything running concentric.
That's pretty much where I got to in the end, I just needed some trial and error to figure it out 😂. I assume the last little bit of run out I couldn't deal with was either caused by an imperfectly cleaned tool holder, or error in my spindle itself. This machine is like 20 years old after all. It probably needs some TLC in the spindle.
I did just see you have Tiloc saw arbors. I used saws a lot on my Tormach, but I haven't seen any arbors I like for this machine. One of yours would be great! I'm not sure I want to know how much they cost 😂, but I'm sure it'll pay for itself pretty quickly.
What kinds of speeds and feeds allow a 0.010" endmill to survive?
All the RPM, very shallow DOC, and WOC. I think it was something like .0015 step downs. .00007" feed per tooth
@@AudacityMicro getting it to work without snapping is insane, I'm just trying not to snap a 1mm lol
at work I had to do a feature with a 1/32 end mill into tool steal on a mill that only got up to 4200. Luckly we have a sinker edm so I was able to mill the reverse into graphite. If youre gonna do a lot of other teeny features a sinker edm might be worth the investment as old ones can be gotten at auction for under 5-10k
I would love to get some sort of EDM equipment. I keep running into more parts where it would be handy. It would be a nice high value item I could add to my relatively small shop. I'm limited on what machines I can get through my door, but to my understanding EDMs are aren't large.
Sometimes you want the retractions to happen. Better to find out in the first 5 min. that the tool broke instead of waiting for 2 1/2 hours. Push single block wait for spindle to retract, turn off spindle, inspect tool if OK restart spindle and take off single block to finish.
That's true, and I did end up using them for that reason. I just turned the rapids down to 5% and watched the tool.
I maintained CNC machines for many years and am quite surprised that mill was capable of running such fine tooling. Even with the best super precision spindle bearings things like ovality in rotational path are still a thing. Straight run out is an easy fix but when the tool doesn't spin around a single axis point it becomes quite difficult. In metric I wouldn't be surprised if it ran oval by 0.0005mm causing an inconsistent load on the cutter? Normally a machine doing such fine work would use a face mounted spindle like a HSK and pneumatic bearings to sort the micro run out issues. Even the ball screw pitch and motor encoders. Say a super fine pitch ball screw of 4mm pitch and a very fine 2500 pulse encoder on the motor, double the encoder count for a normal reduction drive if its gear or belt driven would give you 1 pulse to 0.0008mm of travel. The very best any machine can do repeatability wise is one count. That also ignores any mechanical variations that stick/slip characteristics of the axis would present. I'm not sure what style of drive the HASS uses but given it's size probably direct so even if it had a 5000 pulse encoder that's very unlikely in such a budget machine it could achieve repeatability well enough not to damage the cutter.
My thoughts anyway.
Cheers
I'm not saying it's the perfect machine for it, but it's done well so far with small tools. It kinda sucks at big tools, but it handles small tools well. These OM/CM machines are designed for this kind of thing, and running this type of tool isn't unusual. I know some watch makers that use them frequently with the same size, or smaller tools. Though generally with a more reasonable stickout, and higher quality tool holders.
>i have this amazing tiny tool, but i can not show you what it can do on this part because NDA.
Then why not just make something tiny for us for demonstration purposes.
Because I'm not a good UA-camr 😂. Sorry about that, I know it would be ideal, but making these parts is actually how I make a living, and at this point I can't afford to spend extra time on parts that won't ever yield me any profit. Hopefully that will change in the near future, I'm starting to get ahead on the jobshop stuff, and my last few videos have actually gotten a semi-reasonable number of views. If that keeps up, I can afford to do some side projects specifically for UA-cam.
Ur measuring tool is very close……chips don’t hit it?
The tool setter? They do, it's just designed to hold up to it.
Get a cheap laser pointer and a red LED and your multimeter. You can find a red LED in any appliance in the dumpster. Set your multimeter to millivolts or the lowest volts setting and connect it to the leads of the LED. Mount the laser and the LED to your vise, as if the LED was a detector. You should measure a small voltage as the red photons are converted back to electrons in the crystal, making it a crude laser mic. You can "touch off" a spinning tool with it.
I want to see you counterfeit some quarters out of aluminum and copper or whatever. It something to show what those tiny bits can do
That would be fun 😊
How did you check the features milled with the 0.010 endmill? Was there a specific tolerance for those features?
There was a +/- .005" tolerance. Fortunately I was able to measure the critical features on this one with gage pins and a gage block. I do definitely need to step up my metrology game though. I've had to turn down jobs that I couldn't measure in the past. An optical comparator and/or a toolmakers microscope will be in the near future for me.
I had thought you were going to scallop the handle as I thought it would feel nice in the hand. It would also make it lay flat. But I do respect your right to choose your own designs and methods.
If this has been a product I would have done quite a bit more iteration. My thought process was that I wanted to make something that was interesting to handle. That started with it being surprisingly heavy. After that I wanted it to have some fun physics when sitting on a table. I wanted it to be able to rock and spin. This kinda worked out. It rocks but doesn't really spin like I wanted it too. If I was going for that a second time, I would have given it a slight spherical radius instead of a cylindrical. The surface texture was also designed to be interesting in the hand, and was modeled after the Tactile Turn pens, but ended up being mostly visual, and kinda "meh" in the texture department. Something like some larger fluting would have done better there. Maybe some combination of sharp corners and smooth curves to provide a contrast.
@@AudacityMicro The way you wanted it to spin reminded me of something. Google "rattleback spinner". You might remember these from years ago. Your project lends itself to a version of that spinner quite nicely. But here I am again, telling you what to do.
I did find that there are metal versions of the spinner out there. But they are not bottle openers.
@@AudacityMicro Not sure how I lost one reply as the afterthought post I followed it with made it. Here it is again: When you said you wanted it to rock and spin, that made me think of something from the past. Search for "rattleback spinner" on Google. That device lends itself to your bottle opener project quite nicely.
Yes! that is exactly what I was thinking, I just couldn't remember the term!
I'm really glad youtube recommended this channel to me today. I've watched through a few of your videos so far and the way you record/edit really makes some laid back yet intriguing content. I'm actually looking to get into machining this year, with zero experience other than nerding out over machining videos haha.
How did you get into machining if you don't mind me asking? Unfortunately I don't know any machinists irl!
I'm glad you are enjoying!
And I didn't get into machining in a "traditional" manner either.
Long story short, I bought a small CNC router, learned on that, sold it, bought a small Sherline lathe, and then later a mill. Learn on those, then sold them and bought a Pocket NC. Actually made money on that, bought an old Tormach, made more money on that, until I sold it to buy my current Tormach, which paid for my Haas.
Basically I'm just all self taught, and I've slowly bootstrapped my way through better and better machines. Basically I learned everything on UA-cam, Instagram, and the instamachinist discord.
@@AudacityMicro Right on! Appreciate the reply dude. Sounds like a bit of a journey but you sure seem to enjoy it. Keep on keeping on!
damn that haas spindle does 25k??????
It does 40K!
Wait how big of endmils can you run on the Haas Mill?
The practical upper limit on this machine is 3/8", but it's not always happy with that. It does better at 3/16 and 1/4". You can make up for the tool size with the high RPMs
I run Harvey Tool #73015 in 17-4 condition H900. We can get anywhere between 80-100 parts oit of one tool before it's gone. They are great tools.
I've been really happy with the Harvey stuff. I'm going to be slowly transitioning all my core tools to Harvey. Right now I just kinda have a mix of stuff, but it'll be good to standardize
The are engraving two flute 0.25mm ball end mills. Really rigid as the tapper goes all the way to the radius. Ive never not staped a normall mill under 1mm. The are always so long.
I would have much preferred to use one of those here 😅. Unfortunately they wouldn't work with the geometry I needed to cut.
Can you get in trouble from any copyright or whatever if you were to 3d image a part then reproduce the same part and sell it? Like as long as you didnt include any logo’s or trademarks or serial numbers or anything? Or do u have to get some kinda permission to do it? Just wondering because there’s a hell of a market for certain engine parts that can be machined and sold for a hell of a profit from what the manufacturer is trying to sell them for.. plus the manufacturers product has defects and is made to be unserviceable.. not sure the politics on that whole deal but is something that would put quite a few zeros on my bank account.. i mean id be doing all the work, only the basic form and tolerances would be mapped for the new part and new part would have a few significant iterations..
I think the answer there is "it depends". I personally wouldn't do an exact 1:1 copy of anything, but I wouldn't see any legal or moral issue with making an upgraded version as long as it's different enough. I would be careful with my labeling and marketing to make it very clear that the part you are making is NOT made by the manufacturer. "Compatible with Chevy Engines" not "Chevy Engine parts" for example.
Making reproductions of parts that aren't made any more is basically always safe. Companies generally don't care about products they have discontinued.
I've never heard of someone getting sued out of the gate for copying a product, you ALWAYS get an angry, but harmless Cease and Desist letter first. It's much cheaper than a lawsuit, so companies start there.
TLDR, go for it, if you use common sense you will be fine
Any time using miniature endmills, stubs are the only ones that work.
These ones are stub length flutes, but with a long relieved neck. I unfortunately needed the long reach for this part.
the other issue with this is chip removal. next time have a small diameter brass tube as close as possible for coolant@@AudacityMicro
I have the same sort of issue w/ my compressor being in a room I want to turn into a sanding/grinding/blasting room. I'm not concerned about noise as much as turning my compressor's environment into a hazardous breathing enviro.
I'm moving my compressor, since I have another room on the other side of the wall it's on. Not an easy job w/ a water cooled 80 gal horizontal tank, IR cast iron V2 model 30, but I will appreciate the extra room & the compressor will breath clean air.
I suggest you upscale the walls around your air pump or design some damn good filters, (no compressor in our price range has good filters.)
The compressor sets there sucking in air. You'd need a sealed room & an exhaust system that'd suck paper off the floor & require chin straps on hats to keep the pump from sucking dirty air from your dungeon.
Better to invest a little now than reduce the life cycle of a main component of a shop.
Man, I thought a 1/64 end mill made me sweat; I'd be dessicated working w/ an end mill 1/6 the size!
Now you gotta go through it, again, because your no-worries final op screwed the pooch. Bummer...
Hmmm, that is a valid point. I hadn't considered the effects on the compressor. I don't think the grinders run enough to be a concern, but the sandblaster do, and the compressor is always running when the blasters are running. I think the vent will go a long way, but some extra filtration is probably necessary.
@@AudacityMicro Glad I commented, then. Is there any way you can make a snorkel for your compressor & avoid the work of cleaning ot the expense of replacement?
As long as the diameter is ~50% larger than the intake throat of the compressor, it won't be starving for air. Be cautious about too small if it's very long, as well.
Dude, like your channel but if you get caught showing even part of a customer's design you'll be kicked off Xometry. $0.02
I am not violating anyone's TOS by showing a cylinder, but you are right that I should be a little more careful. I did push it a little farther on this one than I probably should have. At the end of the day, the specific words of the TOS don't matter, they have the power to drop me on a whim. Now that I am picking up a little bit, I will be able to exclusively show non-Xometry parts.
@@AudacityMicro btw not trying to be mean, keep up the good progress, just maybe blur out the parts or something
What the world to live in...
Do you use a CPAP? Looks like you haven't had a real sleep in a decade. Not trying to insult, trying to help. Look into it!
Ha you think using these things is scary try making them😂 I hate these small tools especially the ultra high performance tools.
Oh yeah, I've definitely had that thought. I figure they are so expensive because they must have a high infant mortality rate, or whatever the endmill equivalent of that is.
You still have some lunch in your face hair
Noticed that too late. Awkward 😅
Whenever I got a part on spec with a drawing - there were never additional 5 mil to make it look nice. either you make the part or you dont. You guys are a scam. No Customer would pay you for shit like this.
.005 thou and 5 mil is a big difference.. I imagine he had the tolerance for that to be okay.
What is a scam? He kept the thing in tolerance apparently or the op he refinished had a open tolerance.
Dude, I hadn't finished the backside of the part yet. I just shifted my WCS 5 thou lower, eating into the 1/4" of spare stock I had on the backside. I wasn't compromising tolerances at all.
@@AudacityMicro some people just don't get it. You are on the right track, carry on.