What's the Best Resin for 3D Printing Miniatures?
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
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What's the best Resin for 3d Printing Miniatures?
Well I'm going to try and answer that today. All of these Resins are said to have different properties, for example this is “red Wax” where as this one is ABS Like, where as the tenacious is dubbed “flexible”
I’m going to print a plate full of Minis in each of these resins on my Elegoo Mars 3 and put them through a series of tests.
Resins used:
Eono Red Wax: amzn.to/3RSf9Tg
Elegoo Standard Clear Blue: amzn.to/3IVuBtP
Elegoo ABS LIKE Grey: amzn.to/3syRtqM
Siraya Tech FAST: amzn.to/37DaazJ
Siraya Tech Tenacious: amzn.to/3czySqG
Stuff I use!
Elegoo Mars 3 : amzn.to/37CemQu
Mercury X bundle: amzn.to/2Udt0dI
Plastic Razorblade: amzn.to/2JCPLm0
Cheapest IPA: amzn.to/3CKaA5O
Nitrile Gloves: amzn.to/3kkLHmT
USB Microscope: amzn.to/2Wg7aa1
Hobo Bucket (Pickle Jar): amzn.to/3yXEvXb
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@GoobertownHobbies video on Resin: • Ph.D. Chemist Explains...
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How many times did I change my Shirt this video? Leave a comment and ill send you a Yeti with a freaking ARM CANNON.
This video is sponsored by Anvil Industry! Check out their Patreon "Anvil Digital Forge" here!
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must have been at least twice
I mean you’re not wrong
5 I believe
It might be a bit late to get the Yeti haha, but I think it was 3 times. You started with the black t-shirt with Atari logo, next was a blue/white/red striped t-shirt when you were washing and then finished with a green t-shirt.
There was also a clip of when you were using the USB camera that was a maroon t-shirt, not sure if that counts.
There was multiple clips with the Atari t-shirt, so hard to tell if it was all filmed on the same day.
So yeh, 3 times (maybe 4 if the clip counts).
Love your content :)
have you just learned the quality "flexible"???
people have other needs from 3D printing not just making silly figurines.
Just wanted to say your video is top 1% tier. Informative, to the point, and with some degree of controlled testing which most videos don't even bother doing with a bit of effort. Really enjoyable video to watch, hopefully you do more printing-help related videos :)
I feel that Tenacious is not meant to be use alone but to mix as an additive to make your mix of quality/flexibility. It is up to the user to experiment and find out the best mix and use for it. If it were meant to be use as a resin on it's own I would imagine they will give it some color rather than to leave it as clear as it is.
It does come in black but you are right. That’s what a lot of people do. Not sure the ideal ration but I wouldn’t go over 20%
Being blunt, I suspect that's Sirayatech realizing Tenacious is *crazy* expensive for what it does and making that suggestion to make it sound like a viable product. Selling 1 bottle is better than 0, after all.
I use 3d printing for miniatures exclusively. After the first year, I just came to terms that the miniatures were going to break while being played with. But I’ve been using abs like(no brand loyalty, whatever is cheapest) and tenacious in a 3:1 ratio. With 25% tenacious, my prints rarely ever break. I even dropped a giant model from Archvillain and the thing that broke was the super glue joint! It’s pretty cool, but definitely expensive. The way I see it is: I can get 4L of my 3:1 mix for around $150 which lasts me between 3-6 months.
@@bradyrigg1426I’m going to try this. I was doing Fast+Tenacious in a 5:1 trying to get more detail but I don’t think the strength was good enough.
Thanks for the tip
Very informative. I use a mix of ABS-like and Tenacious, but I have been using 9:1. I think a video to try and find the minimum mix which still gives reasonable protection to the minis would be very useful. I have not really abused mine at 9:1 but used it since I knew tenacious mix would lose detail. It would be interesting to see how little tenacious is needed for reasonable durability (some travel abuse plus table height drops) and how much really degrades the visibility. Less tenacious is obviously cheaper but might require more care in measuring.
This please :)
I've been using Anycubic Standard with tenacious at 8:2, and it's very durable. I really need to try ABS like, but I don't go through resin very fast.
okay, when you said "I didn't print 5 plates, I actually printed nine" I knew this channel was some good shit. subscribed right then lol
I saw a video concerning the Tenacious resin - you can mix (1 part) of tenacious with (9 parts) of regular resin. You get better resolution with slight bendable properties.
Just unboxed my printer yesterday and have been looking around at what resin to get. This was honestly incredibly informative. Couldnt recemend this enough to anyone just starting out.
Didn’t know that you could mix resins before watching this video, why didn’t I think of that?? Thanks!
No problem. I do it all the time (normally cause I’ve got bits of resin in multiple bottles and just throw them together.. but tenacious mix!!
King!
Tenacious mix with most any other resin is a great combo.
Tenacious mixed with Anycubic low-odor plant based resin is what I've recently began doing, seems to have helped make them at least slightly more durable (they still have some issues if too thing, but it's better than pure standard).
Use 10 to 13 percent Tenacious to mix with other resins gives a great durability
I know I'm late to the game since this is an old video but I didn't care much about #-d printing until now lol. I'm actually looking forward to getting a bottle of the flexible resin and doing a mix to see how much of a difference it makes. Love watching your videos!
Hope you have fun!
Thanks for this video! Super helpful!
And in the shopping basket tenacious goes ....
Seriously, great tip with that one.
Gonna stir me a nice resin stew 🧙♂️
Update: 74€?! 😶 remove from basket, add to wishlist 😂
Yeah it’s not the cheapest, but I think in the long run it makes it worth it (especially if you’re only using a third per litre of resin)
@@timomatic6226 74€?!...Must be a regional thing, it's about 10€ cheaper here. Still expensive, but I use about 15-20%, so It'll last a bit and only up the resin cost overall by a few buck. Not bad for helping solve my biggest gripe with printing minis (durability).
@@demon1103 think i might get it even though the price is high. Because my printed skelly bois from OPR are too precious for me to break them accidentally 😄
Checked in my homecountry of bratwurstland. 74€ as well 😅
Out of curiosity, I tried the TGM7 by AmeraLabs. And it is expensive for a reason: it is awesome.
That being said, I use it like gold for very spindly thin details I don't want to snap off.
Otherwise, I use Elegoo 8k Grey + Tenacious Grey at a 60/40 and it has never failed me and costs the same as 1000g of TGM7.
The TGM7 has a clear resin I wanna test out for magic effects on minis next, so if you're struggling to find something strong, damage resistant, without compromising transparency, I'd say give that one a try.
Thanks for the amazing breakdown on these. I’m about to pull the trigger on a Saturn 2 next week and I’m looking for resin for board gaming and this fits the bill! Subbed!
I watched this video at 5am when everyone was asleep.. they wasn't asleep after I laughed so hard at you trying to break the tenacious model 😂😂😂😂😂
I never expected a twist ending to a video testing various resins, but here we are.
Great video thanks so much for reviewing all these! I'd Love to see some information on the inland resin from Microcenter.
Thanks for the great vid! I can't wait to try ABS Like+.
I absolutely love these videos. Fav resin content maker 👍✌️
I totally agree that the best for my money with the ABS-like resin. :D
It is exactly what I needed for miniatures seeing play while maintaining detail for display pieces. I have happily been letting my 4yo+ kids play with toys I've printed with this resin and they have only had small bits come off, like the tail of a small animal, which is expected. The bend on them is good enough to be tossed in a box with other stuff and not break, which is really nice. I would recommend this whole-heartedly. Amazing resin.
i got some tenacious to experiment, but its just easier to use straight from the bottle abs like. someone needs to make the premixed version. and i regularly drop spiky monstrosities when painting, and they've stopped breaking since i switched to ABS like, so it'll do.
to do a fair test, need a far longer light off delay, to allow the varying viscosity of the resins to be overcome, and you need to tune each resin to prevent over exposure
Once you have one empty bottle, just mix into it. I have been doing 9:1 which seems to give me enough protection against breakage. With 7:3 here in the video and several comments with 8:2, you don't have to be too exact. So pour half a bottle of ABS like into the empty, then add about 60-80ml if the tenacious (I would measure but not lose any sleep as long as you were in the range). Label it as you mix and print from that bottle, just topping it off as needed.
a pre mix would be awesome, but my easy button is an empty bottle and a food scale. pour in my Siraya fast until it hits 900G then 100G of tenacious and I'm done.
Fantastic video. I just bought a resin printer and was so confused on resin choices until your video. Thank you
Glad it helped!!!
Glad i found this video, have been trying to figure out why my minatures like to break apart at the slightest drop. Thanks for the advice!
nice video man! Keep it going!
Great comparison!
Great video - super informative, not to much fluff! Thank you :)
Thanks!
I know I'm super late on this, but I think you had some pretty glaring holes in your analysis.
1. You tested the worst form of Sirayatech Fast. The color matters a lot for it, mainly because Navy Grey is a higher quality of resin w.r.t detail, and also in my experience with respect to flexibility.
2. You used the same sliced file for each, meaning all your exposure settings were the same. While this in theory could be lined up under fairness, in reality you're going to come up with proper printer settings for the type of resin you are using. I suspect this might be why you didn't use Navy Gray, since it requires ~20% more cure time by the product sheet. This also kind of makes your detail analysis not super important, since you are likely overexposing some to avoid underexposing others.
3. As other have mentioned, use of tenacious in miniatures is part of a mix, i.e. 10 or 15% by volume. Printing a whole miniature in it is not going to get you what you want.
This is sort of a surprising thing to see since you said you were a test engineer previously. Why would you not test these materials under their optimal build situation instead of going with a one size fits all solution that doesn't do much to make a meaningful differentiation.
From doing a bit of basement testing of stuff myself, I found I get the best detail results with Sirayatech Fast Navy Grey, but to have it really work you are using longer exposure settings along with lower layer height, which really bumps up the print times. That's the kind of analysis you get-- it's not a signular best answer but a bunch of tradeoffs to consider.
Thanks for this comment. I've been considering the SirayaTech Fast and it's interesting to hear different colors have such different qualities. I'll take a deeper look at Navy Gray.
I laughed out loud when I saw the car. You’re informative and very funny. 5/5
omg the Halfords gag got me lol
thought i was listening to He♡rt for a minute then
Excellent video, thank you good sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video, I love getting nerdy about this stuff!
I started using plain Anycubic Craftsmen Resin as my main resin, since about 3 months ago I switched to using a mix of Craftsmen and Tenacious at a 20.80 ratio and can vouch for this S-tier recipe if anyone else wants to test some stuff out
Is that 80% craftsman
20% tenacious
Not quite clear in how you worded your post.
Lol I think so. Otherwise it have the consistency of HARIBO 😂
I have an Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus
Print material: Full bottle Sunlu waterwashable with 60ml Sirayatech Tenacious added.
I print 1/8 - 1/4 scale statues with a 3mm wall and hollowed.
Curing time:: 6 to 7 minutes
Mate, brilliant!!! Right ABS resin and mixing it with the stretchy stuff. I'm in the uk going through this very video lol. sorry new to 3D printing.
5 shirts I think?
More seriously would like the water washable resins compared given the supposedly easier cleanup
Buddy of mine printed me some Mech minis. First thing I did was drop one from 3 feet and it turned into 5 different parts. Glued together well though as they were super clean breaks. Lol.
Oh you did it, good!!! Thanks for the vid! Might mix with ABS like if I can find 5l container
Was using Siraya Navy Grey Fast + 20% Tenacious Black mix. I'll definitely try the ABS-like + Tenacious now.
Thank you!
When I need flexible, I turn to TPU on my Prusa I3. Durably stands up to Freestyle FPV holding GoPro session to hero 11😎
ok... you got me by the time you rode on the Tenacious :D
The fact that it took Tenacious getting backed over by a car to break the ankles off the mini makes me want to invest in a bottle of it for any large minis in the future.
Nothing hurts more than dropping a dragon.
Fun video, great info.
Would love to know what your settings are for mixing 70/30
I use Blu and Tenacious or Fast and Tenacious. It's amazing.
I do use the ABS. Like for 15mm AFV’s and must say came to the same conclusion as yourself but will look at mixing the Tenacious. For 15mm Historical figures I use TGM-7 it’s pricey but good
Thanks for this test. One thing to test would be a lower exposure time on tenacious. That might pop back some detail. Perhaps. It looks vastly overexposed on itself.
try the anycubic tough resin, great for miniatures as it has some flex and isn't brittle like the standard resin can be
Tenacious 10% and 90% elegoo abs like is best, They dont break and you dont lose details.
I got my first resin printer at Christmas (anycubic 4k m3) tbh I'm just using basic resin, bout £15-18 and it prints beautifully
That is awesome!
Maybe to note...the ABS mini fell on its base those two times, and on the actual resin when it broke. Maybe something to keep in mind.
Very cool video. When you added the Tenacious mix did you have to change your settings for the main resin or did it or it out just fine using the previous settings?
Do you have a video on how to make your cleaning/curing stations? I'd love to get into 3d printing but I'm not sure what I need to get started yet!
The irony is that Ministry of Resin Gray is water-washable and comes with all the durability and detail of the resin mixes :D
Nice vid! Let us know if you have tried other ratios of Tenacious, e.g. 15% for less cost but still durable enough for tabletop gaming, or 50% for crazy strong but maybe not as bendy?
Keeping it real G
Tenacious is made to be used for engineering structures or mixed in 1/4-1/5 parts to the Siraya Fast.
This is a very strange comparison of resins.. The exposure requirements of the clear resin is going to be different then the red or Siraya tech..i mean youre comparing apples to oranges lol, the fast resin is meant for fast printing speeds using afc,the tenacious is meant for flex models ect..resin sharpness has alot to do with exposure and dialing in settings and of course the pixel size of your printer. Some of the most bendy and crisp detailed resin ive used has been less than $15 each CAD, and i also really like the plant based from elegoo. But depending on what youre printing and such, do a print test with the resin :)
So to be clear to now get a true S Tier army we need both an S Tier faction and 3D print it in ABS like and Tenacious in a 70 30 ratio? All other army’s will tremble with fear at this S tier 3D printed monstrosity!
It’s true. I’ll fight you with them
Must be nice to have a girlfriend so invested in your hobbies :) Loved the alchimy there !
Nice video too, I think you could try some professional resines such as the one from resione as well ;)
That would be cool!
I mixed flex with normal resin years ago (2020) maybe. Mixed 5l of normal with 1l of flex.
All those models developed fractures over time. Like micro fractures all through them.
I eventually binned about 3l of the mix.
I strongly recommend not mixing flex into your standard resins.
Thanks, this was exactly the video I was looking for!
You did not comment on smelliness and general nastiness. Where there any differences?
I've had alot of good strong prints using siraya tech nylon like resin on my dlp. I will try it on an 8k when printer gets here in 2 days.
people have known what's best, so this isn't useful unless you figure this out on your own. it's what I started out with and it's perfection =. 80% siraya Fast grey, and 20% Tenacious. You can get a 5L of fast grey from Siraya and a 1L of tenacious, Mix, and boom 6L of perfection for a chunk of cash. Flexible for miniatures, stronger then most molded platic- it's holding my headset strap on my quest 3 - crazy... that's why it's $69 an L - cheers!
What is your post print cure process. Some resins need different curing times? Wonder if that could affect things?
What settings are you using for the ABS? I recently got a mars 3 pro and printed successfully but your details are so crisp!
nice Mario cart music
I'm fairly new to resin but I feel like if you have to cut the supports maybe you're over curing? I never have any issue removing my supports
The glue broke before the tenacious did.
How was the ABS Like+Tenacious in terms of detail? Did the faces still lose detail?
you should try mixing the tenacious into the other bottles and test those results.. i commented this before i finished watching..
Great point! ;)
ameralabs tgm-7 is the most expensive (90USD)and is supposedly made for tabletop miniature gaming
Tenacious is meant to be an additive. 1 bottle of tenacious will add to 5 bottles of Fast. It makes my prints way less brittle and breakable. Fast with tenacious is my go to and prints REALLY well.
What kinda printer do you do?
@@jaronhead1963 Photon Mono X
What can i use when siraya tech is not available anymore in ym country? So far it has been by far the best resin I've used so are there any alternatives that come at least close?
So what I'm hearing is that the cheap stuff is surprisingly good.
so which one is best for say well made SW legion? I have a Saturn S
Supig question maybe, how do you mix your resins? in the vat, or in the bottle? I really don't know how to make a 30/70 mix properly
Printers come with little cups, or you can get a cheap jug from a super market to measure. Either pour into the vat and mix with a finger, or the best was is to print into a bottle and shake as normal!
@@HellstormWargaming @deadbane I've been printing with tenacious mixes for a couple of years now and by far the easiest way is to put a bottle on some small digital kitchen scales and pour in and calculate your mix via weight. A fresh bottle has enough air gap in the top to achieve approx 10:1 mix so if you're aiming for 7:3 like in the video I suggest starting with an empty bottle.
i had the understanding fast was a abslike aswell.
the glue broke before the resin does !
I would like to see the Anycubic Standard and ABS Like, because I am thinking of the Anycubic Photon M3 Plus with the autofill, but only compatible with Anycubic bottles. Maybe the two with the tenacious mix.
Can always empty the bottle and replace the resin ;)
@@HellstormWargaming that true, but if the AC resin is any good, i just need to add the tenacious. And AC in Europe often has buy 2 get 3 deals :)
Wait you didn't adjust exposure time for each resin? How can that possibly give decent results?
The original ABS was also my go-to, but now its changed to ABS 2.0 and is terrible. Im a bit sad, not sure which resin to use now :(
Halfords grey primer now at £10.99 - thats a rise of over £3.00 from last month. Time to find an alternative I think.
Still a lot cheaper than most places!
And you said nothing about Water Washable Resins. My go to is the Elegoo Water Washable - Black. Once I've cleaned the model and I heat with hot water the supports peel away so easily it's amazing. I've found the Black to be more flexible than the gray which is why I switched. I did need to do some clear prints so I used the Siraya Tech Clear resin, the models were beautiful however the support removal was horrible. The most rigid I have worked with so far. All I'm really trying to say is if you are looking for the best resin you have to consider a lot more parameters. As I've said I prefer Water Washable and have proven all the horror stories about WW resin wrong. When used properly it's the best in my opinion. I have never had a crack, nor have I had any explosions. and the prints are just right, not super flexible but not rigid at all.
I've just watched a resin test that l8ke ABS resin was said not to touch it was Terrible!? He was doing the pull snap test with a fish scale hook it was just crumbling! Must have been way over cured aswell then maybe? I'm fairly new to 3D printing I just picked up a second the other day mono2 ots beautiful for prints! Can't fault it such an upgrade from the mono 4k! I'm working on this curing as all I'm hearing it 4 mins is enough for curing anymore it'll just go brittle?
Sounds like its heavily over cured if its crumbling! as you can see, i can bend it easily!
I don't think this is necessarily a fair comparison on the quality of detail that each resin can take if you just used the same printer settings for all of them. One resin might be underexposed at a certain layer cure time, another might be perfect, a third might be overexposed. That's also going to affect the qualities of the end product at least somewhat from what I understand.
Most expensive I worked with for minatures is Ameralabs TGM-7 $90 for 1000kg.
That sounds like the cheapest ever. A whole ton for just $90. I think you mean 1kg or 1000g 😉
How are you ventilating?
Are you still using abs like + tenacious? I have seen a few comments here and there saying that over time pieces with a mix of any resin + tenacious tend to just crack.
Would love your input since you seem to have tested different mixes and rations over time
Still going strong mate, haven’t really had an issue? Cracks tend to happen with badly hollowed models and uncured resin inside the mini destroying the inside
@Hellstorm Wargaming thank you very much for the quick reply. Did you sticked to 30% tenacious or where did you find the sweet spot?
My ABS like prints are almost indestructible 😅
Look into Resione
Did you say you cure for 3.5 minutes? Man that seems like a REALLY long time to me. I cure my miniatures for about 30 seconds for 28mm scale. Larger models maybe 20 seconds longer if i need. I find that more than that creates a lot of brittleness, and I have never had a problem with uncured resin
i gave you a view and a like, because it would wound me deeply to see another ''warhammer killed my channel video''
Car sounds like it has an exhaust leak, probably on the manifold - fyi
Where are the locations of this Gummy Suites place?
On my first bottle of Fast; not overcuring it (as you appear to be - my 2k mono uses 2s@.50 layer height) helps with flexibility, but details on figures are printing much more defined than with ABS-like or standard resins. Next time I decide to create a miniatures collection that I plan on bouncing off the ground instead of using on a tabletop, I'll revisit this video. 😆
So this is a really poor test. Because you didn’t dial in your print to how the resin is supposed to be printed, also Fast has nothing to do with being able to print faster. It actually tends to take longer to print with because of the darker colors. Also comparing clear resins to opaque resins doesn’t really make sense, they are completely different compositions and functions. Also Tenacious is really meant to be mixed. You can print with it alone, but I’ve had great results with it mixed 25/75 tenacious/build from Siraya tech.
You wash your minis 3 times... and for 10 min? I'm new, but that seems rather excessive. Correct me if you feel different! Great video though!
I get you're trying to remove variables from your test but then to judge quality of the minis with the exact same slice seems ridiculous. The quality and sharpness comes from dialling in your resin.
Also over curing can effect how brittle a resin is. I love the concept of this video but I really think it should be done with each resin dialled in to show off their capabilities as best as possible.
This is essential. Without being dialed in, the data points are irrelevant. The Fast likely would be closer to 2 seconds per layer or less, so you would see a fair bit less brittleness. I know it’s a whack ton more work, but anything less invalidates your goal.
Also, resolution doesn’t determine print/exposure time. 8k is not faster than 4k. This is determined by LCD screen type (RGB vs Mono) and the light source.
I was also worried that this is not really a fair test for fast for the same reason. I may do a resin video on my channel somepoint to test with diallied in settings.
Very unfair test. I cure translucent minis at half the time of opaque and do not have the brittle problem. I think the same for fast resin. Exposure at 1.5 to 1.7 usual 2.5 is way overexposed.
You use the same file for each one... Not really good
Tenascious, need a really short printing time, maximum 3min in the ipa and 25min in uv for curring...
Sorry if you are using the same exposure time for all the variance in resins this test is completely worthless. I can tell you that Fast Grey vs Navy Grey have different exposure times and I get way better results from Siraya Tech resins than you did.
what about the wargamer resin?
Soon 👀
Costing more does not always mean its better