Ian, been watching your videos for a few years now and learned a considerable amount from your skating vids, you're truly a great asset to the Hockey Community. Apologies if I'm not staying in my lane here, but if I could suggest something it would be to loosen up your wrist on the top hand. The top hand is absolutely the most critical component of these modern shots and is the initiating factor for stick flex. I've been analyzing wrist and snap shots videos from Jason, Jeremy, and many others, and found the common mechanic that's overlooked is the top hand "whip". You mention a towel whip, and that's the exact mechanical motion that needs to occur in the top hand where the wrist needs to bend down while the top arm slides forward, followed by a heavy yank back that brings the wrist back to straight position. As the top hand pulls, the torque in the shaft transfers down into the blade where it naturally opens up and creates a separation from the puck (this is the start of the "open/close/open" mechanic suggested but not explained in other creators' videos). The blade closes as it catches up to the shaft where it strikes the puck in a neutral position and then opens again from the impact of the puck. The bottom hand does push through the whole motion, but really what is occurring is this fundamental precept: the stick is being thrown forward by both hands while the the top hand/wrist bends down to a "starting position" for maximum potential energy transfer, then the top hand initiates the whip while simultaneously the bottom hand keeps pushing through. Many instructional videos will show still pictures of Kessel or Makar with insane stick flex and simply explain the reason as they are getting their top hand out and performing a push/pull motion with both hands. When watching these guys in slow motion video though, the truth is that it's a complicated dynamic of a dozen different mechanics that are sequencing and overlapping to create the desired flex effect. Matthews' and Bedard's shots are the newer variant that you are trying to replicate, where it can be described as a slithering undercut toe-drag, if that makes sense. Sorry if this interrupts your new video, feel free to delete if you wish.
Delete?! Are you kidding me? This is how we figure things out! In my years of instructing, I have found the best way to figure out these amazingly complex skills is by searching for fewer mechanical events that solve 75% of the issues that people have. As an old-timer... this snap-shot shooting technique is new to me... but I need to figure it out in order to teach it. The three biggest things in my researching that seem to make all the difference are the lower hand positioning, the hip twist, and the upper hand towel whip. In my video, I have a habit of feathering the stick through my hand instead of bringing it further over to my knee. That and the leading hip twist are my first two challenges. I have to think way too much when I do it at the moment. Once I can shoot without thinking of those two things, I will narrow in on that towel whip. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge! I am by no means an "expert" and these constructive comments are absolute gold.
Middle-aged dad here, having picked up hockey not too long ago due to my kids. I've watched a lot of instruction videos on UA-cam regarding shooting, and this has to be one of the most thorough and easy to follow regarding the new age toe drag release style. Thank you! I've been practicing this style for a few months now and I really like it since I find I get much more flex/power on my shots with less effort. It very much feels like a wrister though, without puck/blade separation. However, every now and then, I unintentionally yet clearly hear a bit of separation during the shot, and it results in noticeably more power. Of course, when I try to intentionally separate the puck first, it feels quite awkward. How do you time the separation? Are you loading the flex during the lateral toe drag and just pausing for a split second when the heel touches down, where that delay is causing the separation? My soon to be 7 year old is being taught to shoot the traditional wrister in her practices (starting the puck on the heel and sweeping from back leg to front) but she hasn't had much success with it in either velocity or elevation. I don't think she has the strength or timing to get it just yet. Maybe I'm doing the wrong thing, but we've instead been working together on this toe drag release style, and she saw better results fairly quickly.
Hey Dave. There are absolutely some subtleties in taking a snap shot. And literally shooting hundreds of pucks (probably off ice for your issue) would totally work. That timing is one of those subtleties. When I introduce young kids to the snap shot, one of the first things I do is have them focus on the separation aspect. Basically I tell them this; start with both toes facing forward (I have them face the boards when they do this) and have the puck lined up at the back of their heels. I then tell them to get the puck moving forwards towards where they are shooting. The puck will slide forward, and when it gets about two-three inches past the toe of their skates, step forward (the outside foot) and strike the puck. I also teach this part with no stepping. That just helps with the feeling of the separation. That separation, gets smaller when the comfort level sets in. The puck needs to move forward to that spot in front of your skates. A common error is when players try the toe-drag part, but move the puck in a sideways only or backwards motion. The toe-drag starts with puck slightly away, and behind. When you move the puck into that “hand-over-knee” position, it moves towards you but always forwards. This is tricky to explain with words. Imagine this. Your inside skate blade is oriented parallel to the direction of your shot. Your puck is starting out to the side of you, slightly back (the heels of your skate). Now imagine a 90 degree triangle flat on the ice, with the puck starting at one corner of the hypotenuse. You need to bring that puck from the side of you, to where your lower hand is in front of your knee. The path of the puck will follow along the hypotenuse of that triangle, until it arrives a little in front of your skates. That’s where the separation is occurring. Then your stick blade strikes the puck straight forward. You don’t press down on your shaft too hard. It’s the pushing forward with your lower hand that causes the flexing. I’ll probably have to post a video for this detail I think. Do you understand my description?
I agree--doing it on the ice is much different so if you could explain the mechanics of setup entry to the shot as you have the ouck on the ice and the execution--that would be super helpful and THANK YOU for taking the time to break down the mechanics of this shot.
Thanks for detailed information. I'm learning the proper way to use these sticks for full power . Used to the wooden sticks. Never to late to teach an older dog new tricks.
Thank you for the video. I appreciate the attention to detail. I learned shooting in the late 80s and early 90s with wooden stick. Started playing again 3 years ago, so I‘ve been doing a lot of relearning. One thing that happens implicitly with this shot technique: It uses the blade‘s flex by pushing on the toe and leaving the heel up slightly. You can hear it in the noise of the shot. When the blade‘s flex is used, it is lower. Without it, it sounds higher. There is a great Easton/HockeyMonkey video from 11 years ago that explains that part of the technique.
Great stuff! As an ol'timer that grew up with wooden Victoriavilles, it is frustrating to see these kids shooting harder than I ever did without using the clap bomb. In the end though, if you can't skate well, you will never have a great shot on the ice.
It's quite amazing how much more energy can be harnessed with the modern techniques and sticks. And you're right... Skating first. I'm just about finsihed my skating course too. All about balance development. Stuff you can do at Stick and Puck, Public Skating, or simply for your own warm up at a game! Keep an eye out.
I have a problem getting my arms up and away from my body for wrist and snap shots. I’ve been playing for a little over a year. This product is designed for those mechanics (arms away from body) right? Where can I buy one? Been playing now for a little over a year. Thx
Hey Alex... it does help. It isolates the hands to perform that motion... to get the feeling of what it should feel like. You can find it at www.perfectrelease/hockey. In a few weeks, I am also releasing a whole shooting course that will guide you through the learning phase of shooting. I will post something on my channel when it's ready. The course will cover slap shots, wrist/snap shots, back hand shots and one timers... and a few other exciting stuff like knee down one-timers! But that's more advanced. For the wrist/snap progression, I address exactly what you are referring to. So... just a few weeks! The cost of the course is $79 but I teach you how to self assess. So... keep an eye out!
Do you have any accuracy tips on this? I have a shooting pad, I shoot 4-5 days a week. My "normal" shot is like a weight transfer half snap shot/short wrist shot. When I try the toe drag, I gain power, but puck goes all over the place. I don't know if I'm trying to flex the stick a lot more or what.
Hey… when it comes to accuracy… I’ve got a couple of tips. First: is to look where you are shooting, when you are shooting. A lot of players look first, then put their heads down. Train to keep looking. Second… use your bottom hand as a guide. Wherever your bottom hand is pointing in your follow through, that’s where the puck is going. For height: if you immediately raise your blade off the ice after contact, the puck will go up. Keep your stick on the ice… puck stays low. Most important though is to train with your head up while shooting. Hope that helps
@@kellianhockeyskilldevelopm2321 that's probably what it is, the toe drag changes my mechanics. I wish videos like this were around when I first skated out, I'd have probably stuck with it.
Hey Anders. I'm using the "Smart Coach Pocket Radar". It Bluetooth's to my ipad/phone. I have it mounted with a tripod behind the net (it's looking through the twine). Excellent asset to have. It's a bit expensive... but any radar worth it's salt comes in a little higher priced.
The toe drag also builds inertial energy keeping the puck on the blade longer during the snap. The toe drag is inertial energy in the opposite direction the puck will want to move across the blade as the shot progresses. Seeing people let the puck drift wastes so much of the potential stored inertial energy.
The new generation seems like they can " shoot off the wrong foot" a lot more easily, too. Watching your hips-then-torso rotation, it looks a little less dependent on back-foot-to-front-foot weight transfer.
Ian, been watching your videos for a few years now and learned a considerable amount from your skating vids, you're truly a great asset to the Hockey Community. Apologies if I'm not staying in my lane here, but if I could suggest something it would be to loosen up your wrist on the top hand. The top hand is absolutely the most critical component of these modern shots and is the initiating factor for stick flex. I've been analyzing wrist and snap shots videos from Jason, Jeremy, and many others, and found the common mechanic that's overlooked is the top hand "whip". You mention a towel whip, and that's the exact mechanical motion that needs to occur in the top hand where the wrist needs to bend down while the top arm slides forward, followed by a heavy yank back that brings the wrist back to straight position. As the top hand pulls, the torque in the shaft transfers down into the blade where it naturally opens up and creates a separation from the puck (this is the start of the "open/close/open" mechanic suggested but not explained in other creators' videos). The blade closes as it catches up to the shaft where it strikes the puck in a neutral position and then opens again from the impact of the puck. The bottom hand does push through the whole motion, but really what is occurring is this fundamental precept: the stick is being thrown forward by both hands while the the top hand/wrist bends down to a "starting position" for maximum potential energy transfer, then the top hand initiates the whip while simultaneously the bottom hand keeps pushing through. Many instructional videos will show still pictures of Kessel or Makar with insane stick flex and simply explain the reason as they are getting their top hand out and performing a push/pull motion with both hands. When watching these guys in slow motion video though, the truth is that it's a complicated dynamic of a dozen different mechanics that are sequencing and overlapping to create the desired flex effect. Matthews' and Bedard's shots are the newer variant that you are trying to replicate, where it can be described as a slithering undercut toe-drag, if that makes sense. Sorry if this interrupts your new video, feel free to delete if you wish.
Delete?! Are you kidding me? This is how we figure things out! In my years of instructing, I have found the best way to figure out these amazingly complex skills is by searching for fewer mechanical events that solve 75% of the issues that people have. As an old-timer... this snap-shot shooting technique is new to me... but I need to figure it out in order to teach it. The three biggest things in my researching that seem to make all the difference are the lower hand positioning, the hip twist, and the upper hand towel whip. In my video, I have a habit of feathering the stick through my hand instead of bringing it further over to my knee. That and the leading hip twist are my first two challenges. I have to think way too much when I do it at the moment. Once I can shoot without thinking of those two things, I will narrow in on that towel whip. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge! I am by no means an "expert" and these constructive comments are absolute gold.
Middle-aged dad here, having picked up hockey not too long ago due to my kids. I've watched a lot of instruction videos on UA-cam regarding shooting, and this has to be one of the most thorough and easy to follow regarding the new age toe drag release style. Thank you!
I've been practicing this style for a few months now and I really like it since I find I get much more flex/power on my shots with less effort. It very much feels like a wrister though, without puck/blade separation. However, every now and then, I unintentionally yet clearly hear a bit of separation during the shot, and it results in noticeably more power. Of course, when I try to intentionally separate the puck first, it feels quite awkward.
How do you time the separation? Are you loading the flex during the lateral toe drag and just pausing for a split second when the heel touches down, where that delay is causing the separation?
My soon to be 7 year old is being taught to shoot the traditional wrister in her practices (starting the puck on the heel and sweeping from back leg to front) but she hasn't had much success with it in either velocity or elevation. I don't think she has the strength or timing to get it just yet.
Maybe I'm doing the wrong thing, but we've instead been working together on this toe drag release style, and she saw better results fairly quickly.
Hey Dave. There are absolutely some subtleties in taking a snap shot. And literally shooting hundreds of pucks (probably off ice for your issue) would totally work. That timing is one of those subtleties.
When I introduce young kids to the snap shot, one of the first things I do is have them focus on the separation aspect. Basically I tell them this; start with both toes facing forward (I have them face the boards when they do this) and have the puck lined up at the back of their heels. I then tell them to get the puck moving forwards towards where they are shooting. The puck will slide forward, and when it gets about two-three inches past the toe of their skates, step forward (the outside foot) and strike the puck. I also teach this part with no stepping. That just helps with the feeling of the separation. That separation, gets smaller when the comfort level sets in. The puck needs to move forward to that spot in front of your skates. A common error is when players try the toe-drag part, but move the puck in a sideways only or backwards motion. The toe-drag starts with puck slightly away, and behind. When you move the puck into that “hand-over-knee” position, it moves towards you but always forwards. This is tricky to explain with words.
Imagine this. Your inside skate blade is oriented parallel to the direction of your shot. Your puck is starting out to the side of you, slightly back (the heels of your skate). Now imagine a 90 degree triangle flat on the ice, with the puck starting at one corner of the hypotenuse. You need to bring that puck from the side of you, to where your lower hand is in front of your knee. The path of the puck will follow along the hypotenuse of that triangle, until it arrives a little in front of your skates. That’s where the separation is occurring. Then your stick blade strikes the puck straight forward. You don’t press down on your shaft too hard. It’s the pushing forward with your lower hand that causes the flexing. I’ll probably have to post a video for this detail I think. Do you understand my description?
@kellianhockeyskilldevelopm2321 Thank you so much! Wouldn't mind a video, of course, but I'll definitely try out your advice.
Very profi explained...great! Tell them that shot for power only from one leg.always from one leg
Thank you for very deep explanation!!! Can you show it on the ice, please? Explaining the difference and feelings
I agree--doing it on the ice is much different so if you could explain the mechanics of setup entry to the shot as you have the ouck on the ice and the execution--that would be super helpful and THANK YOU for taking the time to break down the mechanics of this shot.
Thanks for detailed information. I'm learning the proper way to use these sticks for full power . Used to the wooden sticks. Never to late to teach an older dog new tricks.
Thank you for the video. I appreciate the attention to detail. I learned shooting in the late 80s and early 90s with wooden stick. Started playing again 3 years ago, so I‘ve been doing a lot of relearning. One thing that happens implicitly with this shot technique: It uses the blade‘s flex by pushing on the toe and leaving the heel up slightly. You can hear it in the noise of the shot. When the blade‘s flex is used, it is lower. Without it, it sounds higher. There is a great Easton/HockeyMonkey video from 11 years ago that explains that part of the technique.
Great stuff! As an ol'timer that grew up with wooden Victoriavilles, it is frustrating to see these kids shooting harder than I ever did without using the clap bomb. In the end though, if you can't skate well, you will never have a great shot on the ice.
It's quite amazing how much more energy can be harnessed with the modern techniques and sticks. And you're right... Skating first. I'm just about finsihed my skating course too. All about balance development. Stuff you can do at Stick and Puck, Public Skating, or simply for your own warm up at a game! Keep an eye out.
I have a problem getting my arms up and away from my body for wrist and snap shots. I’ve been playing for a little over a year. This product is designed for those mechanics (arms away from body) right? Where can I buy one? Been playing now for a little over a year. Thx
Hey Alex... it does help. It isolates the hands to perform that motion... to get the feeling of what it should feel like. You can find it at www.perfectrelease/hockey.
In a few weeks, I am also releasing a whole shooting course that will guide you through the learning phase of shooting. I will post something on my channel when it's ready. The course will cover slap shots, wrist/snap shots, back hand shots and one timers... and a few other exciting stuff like knee down one-timers! But that's more advanced. For the wrist/snap progression, I address exactly what you are referring to. So... just a few weeks! The cost of the course is $79 but I teach you how to self assess. So... keep an eye out!
Thanks from russia , helped a lot
Do you have any accuracy tips on this? I have a shooting pad, I shoot 4-5 days a week. My "normal" shot is like a weight transfer half snap shot/short wrist shot. When I try the toe drag, I gain power, but puck goes all over the place. I don't know if I'm trying to flex the stick a lot more or what.
Hey… when it comes to accuracy… I’ve got a couple of tips. First: is to look where you are shooting, when you are shooting. A lot of players look first, then put their heads down. Train to keep looking. Second… use your bottom hand as a guide. Wherever your bottom hand is pointing in your follow through, that’s where the puck is going. For height: if you immediately raise your blade off the ice after contact, the puck will go up. Keep your stick on the ice… puck stays low. Most important though is to train with your head up while shooting. Hope that helps
@@kellianhockeyskilldevelopm2321 that's probably what it is, the toe drag changes my mechanics. I wish videos like this were around when I first skated out, I'd have probably stuck with it.
Ian, what radar are you using? (and thanks for the videos, they're great for instructing other players prior to on ice practice)
Hey Anders. I'm using the "Smart Coach Pocket Radar". It Bluetooth's to my ipad/phone. I have it mounted with a tripod behind the net (it's looking through the twine). Excellent asset to have. It's a bit expensive... but any radar worth it's salt comes in a little higher priced.
It's true... it's less of a weight transfer... but more of an uncoiling.
The toe drag also builds inertial energy keeping the puck on the blade longer during the snap. The toe drag is inertial energy in the opposite direction the puck will want to move across the blade as the shot progresses. Seeing people let the puck drift wastes so much of the potential stored inertial energy.
So the puck ends up staying on the heal after the first few milliseconds of the shot instead of being already halfway down the blade
The new generation seems like they can " shoot off the wrong foot" a lot more easily, too. Watching your hips-then-torso rotation, it looks a little less dependent on back-foot-to-front-foot weight transfer.