Looks incredible, and makes me even more enthusiastic about wanting to learn this skill. Despite this, in regards to the coaster I imagine if any drinks were to actually spill on it, it would be impossible to clean because of the gaps where any liquids will inevitably seep.
Is there a reason you use a left handed knife, or is it just availability? I typically keep to right handed knives, but idk maybe a lefty would be good for certain curves.. but for that I usually just use double beveled knives, or disposable razors.
Nice work. I'm always curious about the choice of tools to cut leather among leather workers. Some swear by head knives, others by utility knives and I've always migrated back to an X-Acto knife. Have you found a benefit to the knife you used over the others? I am thinking of switching to a fixed blade that I sharpen since most replaceable blades get dull too quickly.
Thanks! I'm not a friend of replacable blades, nor of headknifes. I had a headknife (because everyone apparently has one), but I just never used it. I don't really get the point of this "huge" blade and it is also horrible to sharpen. I´ve got this "Tina" cobblers knife since forever and I love it to bits. Certainly not the best choice to cut very thick leather, but everything else it handles fine. And it is perfect for skiving.
Beautiful... another video I loved to watch and want to make. Do you have a video on the basic tools needed to start with? I’ve looked at Weaver Leather here in the US and their tools seem overly pricey.
No, I haven't made one. There are a lot of videos like that on youtube, though. But they usually show all sorts of tools that you actually don't need, especially not in the beginning. But if you're really getting into leatherwork, you end up buying all sorts of tools anyway ;-). Here's a list of necessary tools: - steel ruler - carpet knife - pricking iron - diamond awl - burnisher (for vegetable tanned leather) - scratch awl - edge beveler (I only own a no 1 and a no 3, rarely use the no 3 though) - wooden or plastic mallet for the pricking iron - needles and thread obviously - contact glue - dividers to mark your stitch line - possibly a strap cutter, if you want to make belts I think that's it. You could get going with a lot less, but those are the ones I use all the time. Everything else is optional. Have a look at "tandy leather" or "goodsjapan", they are good for beginners and intermediate leatherworkers and they sell about everything you need or want.
The only real "leather tools" you need are: stitch groover, edge beveler, a burnisher, and, stitching forks/irons. Most other things you can get away with other tools, a box cutter will get you far, and you can use the back edge of the razor as a scratch awl, a decent metal ruler will do a lot, and go to a hobby store and buy "remnants" packs. They are scraps from manufacturers in all different sizes, colors, thicknesses and styles. You can get a good feel for what you like, and not worry about expensive leather. If you have a Hobby lobby, they sell great leather scrap packs. Enough to make a few wallets and small projects for less than 20$ leather. Then go to the thrift store and get cheap purses, bags, and belts and cut the hardware off for cool unique buckles, and such. Then if you like it, try raw leather and work your way up to dying and finishing eventually. Hope that helps.
@@dentside78 Not sure, I know they come mixed, as there is usually chrome tanned upholstery or accessory leather, like couch, purse, or clothing off-cuts.. those are thinner, very soft and usually very nice colors and evenly colored. The veg-tan leather is thicker, smells a bit stronger of 'leather' and is stiffer and a bit less evenly colored or treated. You can tell by how dry and tough it is. Usually both are good for different things, and I'm sure there are ways to tell if it is that important, but I never really cared. It's a cheap fun and easy way to learn and then you can move on to buying leather hides or sheets and know exactly what you're getting. These are the packs I usually buy, but I'd buy in person so you can inspect it and buy the pack with the pieces and colors you want. Some have mostly vegtan, others more chrome... some have rare sheep or pig leather in them, or cool exotic colors.. (my niece got a bag of all teal leather. Very cool.) So if you can find these in person, check them out. If not, buy online.. they are super cheap compared to leather sheets or hides. You can pay twice as much for one piece the size of a small sheet of paper! Good luck! Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Leather-Pieces/3-Lb-Assorted-Leather-Remnant-Pack/p/42214 www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Leather-Pieces/Farmer's-Leather-Bundle---3-Pounds/p/80651804
its a standard saddlers stitch, but with "lock stitches" . All that means is to do a saddler stitch, but before you pull the second needle though, you wrap the thread around the needle once, so it "locks" the stitch in place. I'm not sure why he chose this stitch, but it is strong. Not quite as strong as a regular saddlers stitch, as the locks in the thread add more rigidity, thus making them less likely to bend and move, which makes them more likely to break. But on a coaster, it doesn't matter one bit. On legit saddlery for horses, it might cause a problem.
@@razsigrun3105 thanks. My family and I are wanting to get into leather craft but we are trying to learn as much as we can before jumping into it head first.
Very nice work! Maybe I will try to downsize it to fit a keyholder Did you try one with black edgecoat? I think this would look very nice Thanks for showing your ideas, Günther
Perfect for a keyholder :-) and if it doesn't work out the way you wanted, you haven't wasted a lot of leather. I was thinking about edgecoat, but I really liked the layered look and the edgecoat would have spoiled that.
What do you use to make edges look sooooo purfect? I'm searching for best method of burnishing, but edges are always sloppy/ Can you describe your technique?
They are far from perfect ;-). Bevel the edges, then sand them, burnish, sand them again, apply saddle soap, burnish again, sand the edges and apply gum trag, last step is to polish.
@Kinnari Leather This is a fantastic and inspirational leather for others to get into the craft. :D Where did you get the knife in the sharpening shot? Looks fantastic. Thank you for the upload. As always, you're a wonderful teacher.
Thank you for the kind words! I got the knife from my previous work place, but you can buy it here schuhbedarf.de/werkzeuge/scheren-und-messer/tina-messer-230-schuhmachermesser-mit-pvc-griff-haarscharf-geschliffen-aus-edelstahl.html
How is it copying Ian exactly? Because of the leather being the chosen material? I do not really see much of a similarity other than that. Look in leatherwork we all look somewhere for inspiration, idea or simply for a lesson. This person is doing fine job.
That is the nicest coaster I have ever seen. Hands down. Beautiful
This is a wonderful video on how to inlay and buff up the edges real good. Thank you for sharing your excellent craft man ship skills.
This is my favorite video! Love the coasters
Thank you!
Looks incredible, and makes me even more enthusiastic about wanting to learn this skill. Despite this, in regards to the coaster I imagine if any drinks were to actually spill on it, it would be impossible to clean because of the gaps where any liquids will inevitably seep.
Good point, but in this case I trust the bridle leather. This leather is made for being outside in rainy, muddy weather.
Is there a reason you use a left handed knife, or is it just availability?
I typically keep to right handed knives, but idk maybe a lefty would be good for certain curves.. but for that I usually just use double beveled knives, or disposable razors.
Thank you for sharing your artistry. Paz
Beautiful! What thread are you using?
Nice work. I'm always curious about the choice of tools to cut leather among leather workers. Some swear by head knives, others by utility knives and I've always migrated back to an X-Acto knife. Have you found a benefit to the knife you used over the others? I am thinking of switching to a fixed blade that I sharpen since most replaceable blades get dull too quickly.
Thanks! I'm not a friend of replacable blades, nor of headknifes. I had a headknife (because everyone apparently has one), but I just never used it. I don't really get the point of this "huge" blade and it is also horrible to sharpen.
I´ve got this "Tina" cobblers knife since forever and I love it to bits. Certainly not the best choice to cut very thick leather, but everything else it handles fine. And it is perfect for skiving.
pjculbertson55 ...Hi. Try Warren Tools....Rhineback NY.....HIGH Quality ..Many blades...Many beautiful Hardwood handles....
This was beautifully done, thank you for sharing it! I'd like to learn this with beading inlay.
Thank you! Beading inlay sounds interesting.
Will the leather and leather bonding material is a strong glue it?
Gorgeous. Thank you so much
Thank you! 😊
Beautiful... another video I loved to watch and want to make. Do you have a video on the basic tools needed to start with? I’ve looked at Weaver Leather here in the US and their tools seem overly pricey.
No, I haven't made one. There are a lot of videos like that on youtube, though. But they usually show all sorts of tools that you actually don't need, especially not in the beginning. But if you're really getting into leatherwork, you end up buying all sorts of tools anyway ;-).
Here's a list of necessary tools:
- steel ruler
- carpet knife
- pricking iron
- diamond awl
- burnisher (for vegetable tanned leather)
- scratch awl
- edge beveler (I only own a no 1 and a no 3, rarely use the no 3 though)
- wooden or plastic mallet for the pricking iron
- needles and thread obviously
- contact glue
- dividers to mark your stitch line
- possibly a strap cutter, if you want to make belts
I think that's it. You could get going with a lot less, but those are the ones I use all the time. Everything else is optional.
Have a look at "tandy leather" or "goodsjapan", they are good for beginners and intermediate leatherworkers and they sell about everything you need or want.
The only real "leather tools" you need are: stitch groover, edge beveler, a burnisher, and, stitching forks/irons. Most other things you can get away with other tools, a box cutter will get you far, and you can use the back edge of the razor as a scratch awl, a decent metal ruler will do a lot, and go to a hobby store and buy "remnants" packs. They are scraps from manufacturers in all different sizes, colors, thicknesses and styles. You can get a good feel for what you like, and not worry about expensive leather. If you have a Hobby lobby, they sell great leather scrap packs. Enough to make a few wallets and small projects for less than 20$ leather.
Then go to the thrift store and get cheap purses, bags, and belts and cut the hardware off for cool unique buckles, and such.
Then if you like it, try raw leather and work your way up to dying and finishing eventually.
Hope that helps.
@@dentside78 Not sure, I know they come mixed, as there is usually chrome tanned upholstery or accessory leather, like couch, purse, or clothing off-cuts.. those are thinner, very soft and usually very nice colors and evenly colored. The veg-tan leather is thicker, smells a bit stronger of 'leather' and is stiffer and a bit less evenly colored or treated. You can tell by how dry and tough it is.
Usually both are good for different things, and I'm sure there are ways to tell if it is that important, but I never really cared. It's a cheap fun and easy way to learn and then you can move on to buying leather hides or sheets and know exactly what you're getting.
These are the packs I usually buy, but I'd buy in person so you can inspect it and buy the pack with the pieces and colors you want. Some have mostly vegtan, others more chrome... some have rare sheep or pig leather in them, or cool exotic colors.. (my niece got a bag of all teal leather. Very cool.)
So if you can find these in person, check them out. If not, buy online.. they are super cheap compared to leather sheets or hides. You can pay twice as much for one piece the size of a small sheet of paper!
Good luck! Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Leather-Pieces/3-Lb-Assorted-Leather-Remnant-Pack/p/42214
www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Leather-Pieces/Farmer's-Leather-Bundle---3-Pounds/p/80651804
I'm curious to know what stitch you use?
its a standard saddlers stitch, but with "lock stitches" . All that means is to do a saddler stitch, but before you pull the second needle though, you wrap the thread around the needle once, so it "locks" the stitch in place. I'm not sure why he chose this stitch, but it is strong. Not quite as strong as a regular saddlers stitch, as the locks in the thread add more rigidity, thus making them less likely to bend and move, which makes them more likely to break. But on a coaster, it doesn't matter one bit. On legit saddlery for horses, it might cause a problem.
@@razsigrun3105 thanks. My family and I are wanting to get into leather craft but we are trying to learn as much as we can before jumping into it head first.
Very nice work! Maybe I will try to downsize it to fit a keyholder
Did you try one with black edgecoat? I think this would look very nice
Thanks for showing your ideas,
Günther
Perfect for a keyholder :-) and if it doesn't work out the way you wanted, you haven't wasted a lot of leather. I was thinking about edgecoat, but I really liked the layered look and the edgecoat would have spoiled that.
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
What do you use to make edges look sooooo purfect? I'm searching for best method of burnishing, but edges are always sloppy/ Can you describe your technique?
They are far from perfect ;-). Bevel the edges, then sand them, burnish, sand them again, apply saddle soap, burnish again, sand the edges and apply gum trag, last step is to polish.
Very nice.It's to bad people won't cough up the true value for a set of coasters like these!
Well... I probably wouldn't, unless it would be gift to someone :-)
Wow, beautiful
Großartige Arbeit, wie immer.
Mit den teuersten Untersetzern dürftest du recht haben. :O)
LG Sam
Danke, war auf jeden Fall eine nette Geschenkidee :-)
Thank you so much for this tutorial... really useful for me...
where can i get this tread can any one please tell me???
Nice work
I'm wanting to make a journal with a three wring on the inside I have pictures could you help me on what I need
Sure, send the pictures to jannik@kinnarileather.com and we'll see if I can help.
amazing asmr
what weight leather did you use? veg or chrome tanned?
Check the description
What do use on 3:02 and did u use cotton to apply on?
It was just water, nothing special :-).
I love all the details in r work! ;)
Even if it is water, thank you :-)
That's also not cotton, its sheep wool. They're called daubers.
@Kinnari Leather
This is a fantastic and inspirational leather for others to get into the craft. :D Where did you get the knife in the sharpening shot? Looks fantastic. Thank you for the upload. As always, you're a wonderful teacher.
Thank you for the kind words! I got the knife from my previous work place, but you can buy it here
schuhbedarf.de/werkzeuge/scheren-und-messer/tina-messer-230-schuhmachermesser-mit-pvc-griff-haarscharf-geschliffen-aus-edelstahl.html
Thank you!
What glue are you using?
Contact glue
Oh what like Evo stick?
Never heard of evo stick. Every hardware store should sell contact glue, e.g. pattex.
oh okay, thank you, i shall have a look.
Rats. I take Kinnari Leather is kaputt?
For now...
что это такое?
что это и для чего?
подставка под стакан/кружку
Отлично.
even though it was copying "Ian Atkinson"s style, and even splash, still you did a stunning and BEAUTIFUL piece. nice job sir.
How is it copying Ian exactly? Because of the leather being the chosen material? I do not really see much of a similarity other than that. Look in leatherwork we all look somewhere for inspiration, idea or simply for a lesson. This person is doing fine job.