I think you shouldn't mess about with adjusting screws on frame as whole point is to see how it works/prints out of box. If it's not working well then you tinker it. Also first layer (bottom of cube) doesn't look really that amazing in my opinion. Maybe it's lack of focus on your camera. It's there but lines are not clean and equal.
All of the built-in features for the price makes me want to get this as my 2nd 3D printer if I get another one- my current printer is an Ender 3 pro, with Marlin 2.1 firmware and a CRTouch installed. I think the Sunlu T3 might have similar if not better value for the money. I would also want to build a custom version of Marlin for this printer if I decide to get it, to add/tweak a few features if necessary.
Yes I agree, it has a lot of good features for its price. Namely the Cr touch and filament runout sensor, and flexible bed compared to the Ender 3 pro or v2. But I don't overall the Ender better built.
That's really interesting. Haven't hear many people say that before and its good to hear. I think the auto levelling and magnetic sheet really helps compared with the the Ender 3 V2 and earlier models.
Exactly because when. I? Try. To keep in mind? I'm very inexperienced with 3 printing and I ended up causing malfunctions. So hopefully the sunlu could work well with these auto sensors
UPDATE: SUNLU got back to me and here is the clog detection works. "There is an impeller inside the clog detection component, and the filament drives the rotation of the impeller. When the impeller does not rotate smoothly or stops rotating, it will be judged clog or the material is not smoothly discharged."
I don't believe you need to use a custom slicer, but a certain custom slicer profile. I believe Sunlu themselves recently released one. Though I have seen people prefer to use Ender 3 profiles.
That would be the Geeetech A30T. They have a couple of versions. I'd recommend the A20T over that one as mine cannot use Marlin natively. All have stringing issues unless finely tuned, run rather slow. But I upgraded to a switching rather than mixing hotend. Much better but cannot mix colours anymore.
When the filament runs out should be a standard marlin M600 process. It pauses and you can change the filament and select to resume. Or you can manually pause and change the filament mid way.
How does you Connect the Octoprint with the Sunlu? i have a Raspberry Pi 3 connected to the Sunlu. It start printing the Line on the left Side, Then it travels to the mid, Starts printing, 2-3 centimeter and stops. He does not move anymore. the Same with my PC and Pronterface with repetier i have issues that the Print Starts and random stops for a second and that a 100 Times in a Print and that generates Bubbles :( If i use the gcode and Print these with the SD the prints are well. i use 2 different USB cable any guess ? Hopefully Not a faulty USB Port on the printer :(
It should work fine. Could be a capable issue as you mentioned. Might want to check the Terminal in Octoprint. Check if there are errors when commands are sent.
@@3dlootlab Thank you for your Response. I found the issue. I have Problems with the 3.42 Firmware. Inflashed the 3.4 and it works fine with Repetier, Octoprint and Pronterface.
@@balazsnagy2916 no, If you want to change the card, you must also change the screen (the connector is Sunlu's own garbage). and the final screen is not compatible with the space, the space for the control does not match and part of the LCD is hidden. You have to reconfigure the firmware so that it recognizes the thermistors and end stops.
@@balazsnagy2916 You must also change the order of the pins of the cables so that the motors rotate in the necessary direction. I also had to change the Z sensor, the one it came with there was no way to make it work.
Pro-tip, don't take advice from someone that doesn't know how to tram a bed. And doesn't know the difference between print volume and bed size. Also doesn't have a clue what he's talking about when it comes to volumetric flow.
Thanks for the pro-tip! Definitely hope to be a pro as well someday. The print volume and bed size, at least my ender 3 is also marketed to print effectively at 220x220 on the xy, but I can print almost 235x235 the size of the bed.
Its just my personal experience with the Ender 3 V2 that you can. You can also refer to this as well as other website that gives good details how you can print more than 220x220 on the XY. all3dp.com/2/ender-3-bed-size-what-is-it-really/
@@saltwaterrook4638 What a jerk, pretending to be a pro when you probably don't even have a 3d printer. Maybe you do, but you clearly haven't tinkered enough with it. I've finally gotten my own tinkerable printer(had a Zortrax M200 for a while) and already made ~12 upgrades to it, and can already tell you know nothing.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. The Geeetech A30T. I do not recommend it for beginners, but if you were to get one, avoid this and get the A20T, which has less problems.
just picked up a t3 for my 1st printer got to say so far i love it and got it for 130 usd
Wow thats a killer price!
congratulations on your new printer !
Thank you! Cheers!
I think you shouldn't mess about with adjusting screws on frame as whole point is to see how it works/prints out of box. If it's not working well then you tinker it. Also first layer (bottom of cube) doesn't look really that amazing in my opinion. Maybe it's lack of focus on your camera. It's there but lines are not clean and equal.
That makes sense! The bottom was pretty good. You're right could use improvement but not bad for a first test. There was very little elephant's foot.
All of the built-in features for the price makes me want to get this as my 2nd 3D printer if I get another one- my current printer is an Ender 3 pro, with Marlin 2.1 firmware and a CRTouch installed. I think the Sunlu T3 might have similar if not better value for the money.
I would also want to build a custom version of Marlin for this printer if I decide to get it, to add/tweak a few features if necessary.
Yes I agree, it has a lot of good features for its price. Namely the Cr touch and filament runout sensor, and flexible bed compared to the Ender 3 pro or v2. But I don't overall the Ender better built.
I bought an ender 3 and so much was wrong with it. It had so manny complicated features but once I ordered the the sunlu 3 I loved it.
That's really interesting. Haven't hear many people say that before and its good to hear. I think the auto levelling and magnetic sheet really helps compared with the the Ender 3 V2 and earlier models.
Exactly because when. I? Try. To keep in mind? I'm very inexperienced with 3 printing and I ended up causing malfunctions. So hopefully the sunlu could work well with these auto sensors
UPDATE: SUNLU got back to me and here is the clog detection works. "There is an impeller inside the clog detection component, and the filament drives the rotation of the impeller. When the impeller does not rotate smoothly or stops rotating, it will be judged clog or the material is not smoothly discharged."
Is there a way to disable that? It’s something that I’ve been dealing with. Very annoying with third party filament
@@JurassicJordan yeah too can right in the printer menu.
i didnt even realize i can access the menu mid-print tysm, lol@@3dlootlab
Hello. Nice video. I think I need more prints to make an opinion on this printer mainly at 250mm/s
Thank you! Hope to show more in another video to test the speed more.
Compare it to Ender 3 V3 SE
With regard to the advertised high rate of speed for these, aren't you supposed to use a custom slicer?
I don't believe you need to use a custom slicer, but a certain custom slicer profile. I believe Sunlu themselves recently released one. Though I have seen people prefer to use Ender 3 profiles.
My sunlu t3 don't print very well... Can you help me?
Some info would help. But note there are new Cura profiles available on the Sunlu Facebook group. Download those and give them a try.
hi do u have discount code for printer
I do not sorry. However, I actually decide to start selling these on Amazon.ca Prime. Its on discount there for Black Friday week :)
Still waiting for the fast printing settings.
Thanks for the reminder. I had moved on to other projects. I'll get this one going! I have CHT nozzles I can also try as well.
What is the name of the 3-extruder 3D printer ?
That would be the Geeetech A30T. They have a couple of versions. I'd recommend the A20T over that one as mine cannot use Marlin natively. All have stringing issues unless finely tuned, run rather slow. But I upgraded to a switching rather than mixing hotend. Much better but cannot mix colours anymore.
How to charge filament?
When the filament runs out should be a standard marlin M600 process. It pauses and you can change the filament and select to resume. Or you can manually pause and change the filament mid way.
how to extrude?
How does you Connect the Octoprint with the Sunlu?
i have a Raspberry Pi 3 connected to the Sunlu. It start printing the Line on the left Side, Then it travels to the mid, Starts printing, 2-3 centimeter and stops. He does not move anymore.
the Same with my PC and Pronterface
with repetier i have issues that the Print Starts and random stops for a second and that a 100 Times in a Print and that generates Bubbles :( If i use the gcode and Print these with the SD the prints are well.
i use 2 different USB cable
any guess ? Hopefully Not a faulty USB Port on the printer :(
It should work fine. Could be a capable issue as you mentioned.
Might want to check the Terminal in Octoprint. Check if there are errors when commands are sent.
@@3dlootlab Thank you for your Response. I found the issue. I have Problems with the 3.42 Firmware. Inflashed the 3.4 and it works fine with Repetier, Octoprint and Pronterface.
Does anyone have any problems with there printer not printing at all
Like does not even turn on? I would return it if you can for a new one.
Spend your money on corexy all that is just junk at the end
An expensive paperweight!
This is what you will get if you buy a product from Sunlu, good luck trying to buy a spare part
All parts is compatible with the ender v3 :)
@@balazsnagy2916 no, If you want to change the card, you must also change the screen (the connector is Sunlu's own garbage). and the final screen is not compatible with the space, the space for the control does not match and part of the LCD is hidden. You have to reconfigure the firmware so that it recognizes the thermistors and end stops.
@@balazsnagy2916 You must also change the order of the pins of the cables so that the motors rotate in the necessary direction. I also had to change the Z sensor, the one it came with there was no way to make it work.
Pro-tip, don't take advice from someone that doesn't know how to tram a bed. And doesn't know the difference between print volume and bed size. Also doesn't have a clue what he's talking about when it comes to volumetric flow.
Thanks for the pro-tip! Definitely hope to be a pro as well someday. The print volume and bed size, at least my ender 3 is also marketed to print effectively at 220x220 on the xy, but I can print almost 235x235 the size of the bed.
@@3dlootlab no, no you can't. Stop posting until you know what you're talking about.
Its just my personal experience with the Ender 3 V2 that you can. You can also refer to this as well as other website that gives good details how you can print more than 220x220 on the XY. all3dp.com/2/ender-3-bed-size-what-is-it-really/
@@saltwaterrook4638 What a jerk, pretending to be a pro when you probably don't even have a 3d printer. Maybe you do, but you clearly haven't tinkered enough with it. I've finally gotten my own tinkerable printer(had a Zortrax M200 for a while) and already made ~12 upgrades to it, and can already tell you know nothing.
You absolutely can print 235x235 on an Ender 3. Regular, Pro and V2 for sure.
What is the name of the 3-extruder 3D printer?
Hey, sorry for the late reply. The Geeetech A30T. I do not recommend it for beginners, but if you were to get one, avoid this and get the A20T, which has less problems.