Very hacky work! Could have easily fixed this by shimming the bracket instead of endless possibilities. I would never bring an Escalade or any other car to a jiiffy lube place like this! Nice way to jack up the bill. Doesn't even know the proper sequence for tightening the lugs, wth??? Imagine how many wheel bearings you messed up tightening with a gun.
Good troll there "Gene Yus", take your car wherever you want, shim whatever you want, but Ray does professional work. Shimming it would be hacky work, thats not a proper repair for the issue present.
I really like that you diagnose and source parts rather than throw the parts bomb at it like so many others do. You are a credit to your trade Ray, Subs today is 299k, next stop 1 million subs!
"parts bomb" I like it.. I usually say parts cannon. lol There's definitely a difference between a troubleshooter/diagnoser and a part swapper. Had many issues with them as a mechanic in the Army.
Ray is having a contagious affect on everyone...I'm pretty sure I heard Eric O the other day on a video make the Rainman yodel when his shop phone rang. Talk about life's legacy.
I love how Ray is just a normal guy making the best out of his job, filming the more interesting jobs, and posting them, he just so happened to find a gold mine on youtube, its like he’s seen a lot, but knows he hasnt even come close to seeing it all, keep up the good content
I like your .... always 'Practical Steps' to the customer states and dealer (states) slags, the non dealer repair shop. And your honesty and skill always comes to the fore. SteveF Australia
Ray, at 8:39 I see shiny metal on the half shaft right next to the wheel bearing oil seal, which suggest the half shaft may not be located properly and has moved outward. This would explain the clearance issue on the calliper.
I think that's a good spot and seems to fit with the concern - as soon as I saw the disc/rotor lateral position not centred against the caliper bracket I thought incorrect rotor or the shaft has been displaced outwards!
I have seen this occur on volvo 240s here in Norway in the winter. In a slide sideways on snow if u hit a big snow bank sideways you can shift the axle internals. If that has happened it most likely will be damage inside the bell too. Should easily see uneven wear on the gears.
Reasonably sure these are “c-clip” type axles. When that c-clip fails, there’s nothing keeping the axle shaft in the tube. Possible the caliper bracket could be keeping the axle located, though. On older, drum brake, vehicles they would walk right out of the tube.
Dammit Ray, you're so freaking contagious! I find myself going Click all the time, even working on my snowmobile, going "pew" when I shut off anything off and wanting your shop's ring tone on my phone just so I could go 'doo de doo doo". And recently just started saying "gravity" whenever I drop something. My wife thinks I'm going crazy!
Oh man I do it to. Had to go to my sons college and help him change his starter, that is help him, not do it for him....Was saying the same things. His college buddies that were helping were like your dad is wierd......I turned them on to Rays Channel. Four of them have subscribed and watch him now.... they dont teach auto shop anymore, this is the next best thing. has helped me many times
Eric from South Main Autos made the do de do noise when his shop phone rang on his post of a day or so ago. Ray is an Influencer it now seems. Good on you Ray! About this video, I can't imagine how that part could get bent without damaging something else.
Well many YTers do refer to each other, even to Scotty Kilmer. Sometimes they comment on each others videos. Most of these guys upload videos to help others and in turn find help for difficult/unusual or unfamiliar problems. They want ways to diagnose and repair quicker, they are not looking for YT stardom. I expect for those living in more remote parts it someone else to interact with, not the same locals, (bless their cotton socks)
I changed the oil and filters in my truck and my wife’s Ford Edge said click when tightening everything and made sure the oil filler caps were facing the correct position. Keep up the great work!!
Thank you Ray you've answered the question it's been bugging me for about a year my wife slid down in embankment and ice storm and her vehicle is all been making a strange noise on the rear wheel haha now I have to look you've inspired me thank you sir
doing my t-ten, and studying for my ASE lately, and you really are giving the best notes i ever heard. I passed my A4 cause of your vocabularies and description of everything, and almost passed my A6 cause of it aswell (off by one) so thank you! im glad i found a GREAT technician on youtube!
I have this exact same year Cadillac Escalade. I had this exact same problem. I am a retired mechanic. I could not figure out why this was happening. It was intermediate. but the majority of the time you could hear it. I replaced everything. even the bracket that you're talking about troubleshooting. This had me stomped. What made it stop, I filed then polished the sides of the brake pad. I did this just trying to eliminate any issue there could be. that actually fixed it. I did try 3 diff pads while troubleshooting and the noise always returned. All from cheap too expensive to OEM. polishing the sides fixed it right away. The sides of the pads were just ruff enough to get caught on the brake inserts that the brake pad rides on. then it would rub. This might not be your problem but this was mine.
Ray, Appreciate your channel. I'm no mechanic but I was once a fair electronics technician. Appreciate watching someone who has a clue troubleshoot a problem. And of course solving it.
Ray, I personally want to thank you for your great work. Finally a real mechanic! You have inspired me to get off my ass and get back into the garage and finish my projects. At 76 my energy isn't very good but I got the front end rebuilt on my Jeep XJ and heading to the front end shop for alignment and new tires. Thank again and I wished you lived here so I could just pay you and sit back and have a beer....
Your 'bag of tricks' for diagnosing never ceases to amaze me, and entertain me too! Unfortunately dealerships are unwilling to take the time, and a lot of others don't have the mental skills for these difficult problems. But, you can do both, and that pays off handsomely for the customer and your employer! You are the best!
Having owned a ASE shop for 30 years what Ray did was pretty good checking. What I stressed to all my employees might have helped, on any vech off the ground especially if you just reinstalled a wheel was to do the “ wiggle and shake “ to all four wheels , “wiggle it top to bottom, wiggle it right to left and shake it in and out”. That will pick up any suspension problems and in this case any hub,bearing or axel movements. Just a suggestion for a constant pattern that helps not only the customer but also sales. Hope you track the problem down without to much trouble.
ray put an indicater on the axle and check for runout. if it sit in the right position it wont show with toe in check . also check end play you can see the axles clean spot is out quite a ways.@8:39 seen those c clips in the diff housing shatter like glass but the brakes will hold the axle in. drum brakes the axle will leave on a long turn lol. i doubt the bracket only because it usually bends the axle tube where the 4 bolt flange is that it bolts to
Hi Ray, I watch you when I can and call up your latest episode. I’m watching the Escalade 6.2. You are a true PRO. You always try to leave nothing to chance and take previous historical comments for what they are worth (most times not much). You logically approach problems with a well thought plan of attack in providing a solution that in fact solves the problem. Keep up the good work, stay safe and healthy. And remember “Havr yourself a GREAT DAY!” Tom from NY
Ray, those brackets are sooo close that perhaps a kiss from a grinder could eliminate the contact. I would think 1/16 of an inch off where it makes contact, would be plenty to correct the problem. It would not effect performance of the caliper.
@@bettymaverick1098 I think your right also.these days if they can prove you {MODIFIED} a safety component on a customers car and an accident occurred on said car that had to do with a braking action a good lawyer would tear you a NEW ONE IN COURT.And since those calipers are painted it's easier to tell.But also since they ARE painted the defense could imply the caliper painter himself or herself damaged the brake component in the act of replacing the caliper after painting.IF that is powder paint on it ,perhaps !!!! the heating of the paint and bracket caused warp-age of said part? The dealership is in the clear,they R&R factory parts, no mods.I am not a lawyer but used to wrench years ago.haha
Bad idea. There is something else at play here. My theory is that the axle is coming out of the tube, caused by a missing/broken/worn c clip on the axle inside the diff. The cover needs to be pulled and check the axle C clip. Grinding the caliper bracket will likely only allow the axle to come out even further. The bracket & rotor may be the only thing holding the axle in right now.
Thanks Ray, for posting great content, taking care in properly diagnosing problems and caring about the customer's vehicle. And making me say DO-DEE-DOO-DE-DOOO at my work phone.
oh and dont forget to tell all the customers ..... to make sure they have a great day.... and if they dont like that... then they can go down in the comments and ad a REEEEEEEEEEEEE..... lol 😆
So finally you are at 300k subs. Congratulation Ray. I just saw the converting part from 299,000 to 300,000 but could not screen record it coz my memory went too low. 😁
Having heard your back story now, I can say you are simply amazing. You are incredibly smart and determined and should be commended! I know this is coming from a stranger, but as a mom, I am very proud of you 👍😊 Keep up the good work!
I absolutely hated to do alignments, you could show customers loose components visually the part and on the screen and they didn't want to spend the money to fix it even after they just spent a grand on new tires. I frequently asked them them if they want me to align it from here or there, glad to be retired.
8:40 What's that shiny area between the radius of the axle as it flares out to the wheel flange and the axle seal? How is it shiny while everything else is dirty? The width of the shiny part is about what you would need to push the wheel flange back toward the centerline of the vehicle to move the wheel flange and therefore the brake disc from rubbing on the outboard edge of the caliper bracket back toward being centered in the caliper. My theory: something about the axle and/or axle bearing has allowed the axle to travel outboard, taking the wheel flange and therefore the brake disc outboard enough to cause it to rub on the outboard part of the caliper bracket. Wouldn't hurt to pop the cover off the rear diff and take a look. Maybe one of the C-clips is worn or blew up.
I see what many of you are talking about "shiny axle by axle seal". Checking for excessive axle end-play "worn C-clip in the diff. Another thing that I noticed is relatively new rotor/drum maybe out of spec. Measure rotor face to wheel face on left and compare it to the right(passenger side)
For the guy saying to shim the bracket, the components in the front driveline of a vehicle are designed with a very specific alignment. Shimming does nothing but throw off that balance. How large of a shim would you use? What would you measure to determine the proper size shim needed? Save the shade tree crap for your own vehicle...Ray has this one right. And, for the record...I am a GM retiree... a tool and die maker to be precise...and this vehicle was one of the programs I worked on..so I ACTUALLY know what I am talking about.
Axle Shaft is moving too far out? This happened to my wife's Yukon. The axle keeper was worn and caused the axle shaft to move out just enough to rub similar to this. Just a thought. Thanks
The axle shaft "button" at it's inner end in the differential side gear. You're onto something there. The button can shear or partway begin to shear creating axle shaft walk. It does happen. And this new stuff they make is more prone to it, nowadays. You would want to check for tire/wheel having been replaced or a bad bruise on a tire. A slide in the vehicle that was brought to a halt abruptly in the past, maybe. Like on icy roads. Or in the wet. Also, has the brake system destroyed it rear rotors before? The parking brake or locked up rear brakes and stepping on the throttle can break rotors. I would ask if I could read the whole service history, or it's service file. The more I think about it, the possibility was true on the Yukon, so, why not ?
Crash damage that was overlooked during rebuild? Broke wheel pushed into the caliper? Check the VIN history and body for any signs of crash and rebuild witness marks. Also possible wheel lugs weren't tightened at one point and wheel fell off, same scenario of wheel pushing into caliper and bending bracket.
Having recently built a rear Dana 44 from an old 87 Wagoneer, and then adapting the brake backing plates from a 07 Jeep Liberty to bolt up to the axle tube flanges so I could use a factory type brake setup for easy part availability. The original drum brake backing plate is 7/64 thick stamped steel and the Jeep Liberty's disc brake backing plate is 9/32 thick cast steel, the axle shaft is of the non C clip flavor so it's retained by a bearing plate with 4 bolts passing thru it and the backing plate and the axle tube flange. Increasing the thickness of the backing plate required welding some spacers to the bearing retainer plate to provide enough pressure to the bearing, and suck the axle far enough into the housing. While testing to determine the required thickness of the spacers to be welded to the bearing retainer plate, I discovered that if too thin or thick, the caliper bracket would rub on the rotor. I'm thinking this has something to do with a wheel bearing not properly installed on the axle shaft therefore not locating the hub face correctly. Or there's interference between rotor and wheel studs or rotor is incorrect. Someone mentioned busted C clips... If the axle was a C clip flavor, and the C clip was broken, the axle would be free to slide out of the housing with that bracket removed and would cause a whole hell of a lot more racket!
I had a problem on my Ford truck where the front rotors would touch the caliper, but only during a stop which heated the rotor up enough to get it to expand and touch the caliper. The clearance was that small. It turned out someone had fitted Courier rotors to my Ranger, and the diameter was different. So, this probably also only made contact after some heavy braking, hence your test did not reveal it during the test drive.
I am the same problem with the Ford F-250 pickup. The rotor hit the brake caliper on every turn. I ended up taking the rotor back to to AutoZone and returned it for a new one. It took over a week to figure out and solve the problem.
Yesterday I experienced the dreaded mini ratchet gravity, twice. Thankfully, the two screws pulled into its black hole did not fall into a floor vent gravity!
I once had a problem like that grinding only when turning right and it turned out to be a severely worn wheelbearing on the left side and the disc was grinding into the caliper carrier bracket because of the amount of movement in the bearing.
I had a rear wheel grinding noise on right hand cornering in a Tundra, found out there was a TSB for it. Something to do with axle end play under load. Was out of warranty but suprisingly Toyota re-imbursed me for 1/2 the repair bill. Maybe I should have just shimmed it ;) 😂 Edit: Grats on 300K subs !
Reeee....I had a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a similar complaint just a few months ago. Turned out the axle was coming out of the axle housing because the bearing was starved for oil and wearing out. At 8:39 I see a bit of shiny on the axle shaft. This truck has a different style axle from the Jeep (jeep is bolt in axle vs the C-clip style) but I think I'd pull the cover and inspect for a missing/broken/worn C-clip in the rear diff. It looks to me like that axle is coming out of the tube. The rotor and the bracket are the only thing holding it in. Hope Ray sees this...
i would double check to make sure the right rotors were put on that thing.i've had alot of gm trucks where the hat of the rotor was just a little bit taller thus giving you the clearence you need.
I had the same problem with my Trans Am. After firing the parts cannon at it. From front hubs to rebuilding the rear axle I found it was the shim for the rear brake pads rubbing on the rotor.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but brake mounting brackets don't bend by themselves. They are quite stout. Would be interesting to get more history on this vehicle to see if this rubbing noise is only recent of after an accident repair of the left rear. Only way I could think of is if the car slid sideways, hit a curb, the wheel bent (and also many other things) and all the obvious bent bits were replaced. But would have to have been one hell of a whack. But Ray (or the history he has) does not mention any of that. To my mind, fixing it is one thing - finding out what caused it, and preventing that happening again, if it is not obvious, is the next level after the repair. Retired mechanic and machinist from Land Down Under.
As soon as I saw the performance slots on the rotor I wondered if the hat depth on the rotors is wrong, might be worth ordering a new set of rotors to compare.
Here on the farm I would jack up the noisy wheel. Block the rest with firewood. Put it in gear and listen for the problem. Pull the tire off and look harder.
The brake hardware looked like a PowerStop kit, nice stuff but the powdercoat is real thick and they don't mask the places that are supposed to be metal to metal-- like the caliper bracket! Might be worth a look.
"Not supposed to be able to use one of these with one hand" The first lift I learned to use was at a small town GM dealership and their lifts were of the two-post hydraulic type that had floor-mounted levers that you used your feet on. Easy enough but they didn't lift at the same speed due to the front end of most every car is heavier due to the engine and if you had a diesel or big block pickup on there, you really had to watch out. And...the floor levers put you right in front of the vehicle so if you got distracted, you could conceivably drop it off the front post right into your chest.
100% its the aftermarket brake kits (RED with holes in the rotors) had the same happen to me on my 07 ESV. I used a die grinder to said point of rub.all fixed... BTW those wheels are 22" not 20"
Inspect for a mis-assembly... an extra spacer of some sort pushing the caliper toward center of vehicle could cause that issue. Or (much less likely) the axle trying to "crawl out of the tube" could do it. What affixes the axle shaft to the differential gears in that? I've seen an axle come right out while the car was driving down the road. (not with disc brakes) His brakes might be holding the wheel on.
It actually looks as though the half shaft is protruding from the bearing and has been working its way free from the press fit. There is a clean ring around the base of the half shaft hub where it used to be seated against the bearing race and is no longer. This would explain the brake disk shift but lack of alignment error.
Idk if you said that those brackets were aftermarket, but I’ve had to shim aftermarket caliper brackets to get the rotor in perfect center. Just my 2 cents
Those are after market backets and calipers which have been powdercoated. Powder coating can cause clearance issues. Also i suspect it is not the correct assembly for this car.
My buddy took the rear break rotor and put it on the front when he did all 4 break and the Front rotors where not lined up correctly but still fit caused all sorts of rubbing
Ya gotta love how the Cadillac dealer appreciates its customers! They’re junk to begin with but when people spend the $ you’d think they’d be looked after, or at the very least have the problem diagnosed.
The part that the caliper bracket is bolted to.... That's placing the caliper bracket close to the rotor on assembly at the upper and outer clearance between the caliper bracket that carries the rear brake pads, and the rotor's assembled location I couldn't see how it controls the vertical or horizontal plane of the axle shaft flange. This means the axle assembly has been struck? The wheel struck something? Axle flange radial or lateral runout? C-clip worn thin somehow? In the side gear? The axle shaft is WALKING it's coming out and you should inspect the driver's differential side gear, the button on the axle, and the C-clip. Then, in the video, we inspect rear camber and rear toe. Meaning the tire is leaning or scuffing? It boggles the mind that the housing bosses are a part that bolts on, but I will see when you disassemble. No disassemble number Jonny five ! We will require patience and observation to grasp this. Need input ! I think the sasquatch was behind the assembly and peeking around but it was just for a split second. Waiting patiently for part two. If the same measurements are taken, we can see any change that occurs to rear camber and toe. Hope they cover your time and we get to see the readings. The customer may need a print out if it's an insurance claim brought after knowledge of cause. I don't know yet if that makes sense. I am thinking the axle shaft has play in and out of the side gear in the diff. There's a possibility the button is not good at the C-clip. I don't imagine there's any way the mount for the caliper bracket was able to be bent without destroying a tire and or wheel. Another thing we didn't see was: has one of the tire/wheel assemblies been replaced prior to it coming in to rays shop? I would pull the diff cover. That's where I am on this one. And I haven't had to repair a caliper frames rear end housing mount ever. Unless, of course the diff was slammed. The wheel alignment being off could indicate if the axle shaft was walking out of the diff and it could cause adjusting the front toe to result in a steering wheel that won't come out straight. Ya falla? We shall see. It's a good thing you didn't create additional clearance, because a walking axle will continue to walk. Then during figure 8 maneuvers in a parking lot, it will try to grind harder and harder against that caliper frame. The customer may think his LR brake is grabbing except the sound it makes would negate that. Wish I was there at the inspection. But you're thousands of miles from me. If it was forced to drive with the parking brake on, it would destroy the brake rotors. Did they get replaced previously? That's the other thought for Rays idea of the bracket and or support.
It’s true, those GM bracketed calipers have become hard to get ahold of. The Core has risen to as much as the part itself is. I work at Autozone and I get tons of upset customers these days. If you find a good deal on something right now, you better get it while you can.
It seems that (to me) when you get older, the less you worry about faults. I used to worry about squeaks and scraping noises, now my attitude is.. .. screw it! I'll fix it when it explodes.. . noises.. . that's what the volume button on the radio's for.
Very hacky work!
Could have easily fixed this by shimming the bracket instead of endless possibilities. I would never bring an Escalade or any other car to a jiiffy lube place like this! Nice way to jack up the bill. Doesn't even know the proper sequence for tightening the lugs, wth???
Imagine how many wheel bearings you messed up tightening with a gun.
Are you sure, adding shims would have moved the caliper closer to the center line and cause more grinding
Good troll there "Gene Yus", take your car wherever you want, shim whatever you want, but Ray does professional work. Shimming it would be hacky work, thats not a proper repair for the issue present.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs do you know how to shim a bracket??
Obviously not!
@@geneyus6411 Shimming the bracket works cause it move closer to the rotor. Go watch it again, I’ll wait here for an apology
@@RainmanRaysRepairs : Just grind off enough clearance Ray between the rotor and bracket !
One year update: I’m happy to report still no noise from the drives side rear brake. Ray thanks again.
299K Subscribers for Ray ... So, today I expect 300K to be exceeded in a relatively short time. Well done Ray, you deserve this accomplishment ... !
It feels like yesterday he left the Stealership
Well diagnosed. But I would use grinder to take of 1mm of bracket since Ray did not hear a noise.
300k now, 1m around the corner as word spreads.
@@loubakker5000 same here!
Save lots of time and money
@@auxmike718 Then again, a professional outfit should not repair cars with grinders. It is a DIY solution.
I really like that you diagnose and source parts rather than throw the parts bomb at it like so many others do. You are a credit to your trade Ray, Subs today is 299k, next stop 1 million subs!
I checked subs the other day and was surprised it was only 299k
I just saw the subscriber number flipping to 300k!
@@PeaceMarauder I started watching a month and a half to two months ago and he had 267K, now he is up to 300K. His channel is growing pretty quickly.
"parts bomb" I like it.. I usually say parts cannon. lol There's definitely a difference between a troubleshooter/diagnoser and a part swapper. Had many issues with them as a mechanic in the Army.
@@mikeboring2172 I joined around 60k, just surprised me it was only at 299k
Ray is having a contagious affect on everyone...I'm pretty sure I heard Eric O the other day on a video make the Rainman yodel when his shop phone rang. Talk about life's legacy.
Yup, i heard it too!!!
Yep. I said 'cliiick' when I shut off a light at work the other day. DAMMIT, RAY!
@@RenshawYT a hoot...I'm still chuckling.
Yeah, I heard it too but I've also heard Ray say "ugga duggas" and "dangly bits", so, it seems there is mutual respect there.
Who knew there was a secret language of repair guys? It may just be their unique way of getting through crappy jobs or perhaps crappy customers.
I love how Ray is just a normal guy making the best out of his job, filming the more interesting jobs, and posting them, he just so happened to find a gold mine on youtube, its like he’s seen a lot, but knows he hasnt even come close to seeing it all, keep up the good content
No, with the number of uploads he is actively trying to build the channel, it's no accident.
I am a regular guy. I realized that I have something to offer and you guys watch it every day. You keep watching, I’ll keep recording
I like your .... always 'Practical Steps' to the customer states and dealer (states) slags, the non dealer repair shop. And your honesty and skill always comes to the fore. SteveF Australia
Ray, at 8:39 I see shiny metal on the half shaft right next to the wheel bearing oil seal, which suggest the half shaft may not be located properly and has moved outward. This would explain the clearance issue on the calliper.
I think that's a good spot and seems to fit with the concern - as soon as I saw the disc/rotor lateral position not centred against the caliper bracket I thought incorrect rotor or the shaft has been displaced outwards!
I have seen this occur on volvo 240s here in Norway in the winter. In a slide sideways on snow if u hit a big snow bank sideways you can shift the axle internals. If that has happened it most likely will be damage inside the bell too. Should easily see uneven wear on the gears.
Excellent spot. Could Ray be firing the parts cannon (even though he has no ammunition) incorrectly?
Reasonably sure these are “c-clip” type axles. When that c-clip fails, there’s nothing keeping the axle shaft in the tube. Possible the caliper bracket could be keeping the axle located, though. On older, drum brake, vehicles they would walk right out of the tube.
saw the same that half shaft is trying to leave the building and the brake calapier is stoppping it!!!!!!
I like that you diagnose the problem also you source out a part. For replacement instead of putting in a shim
Dammit Ray, you're so freaking contagious! I find myself going Click all the time, even working on my snowmobile, going "pew" when I shut off anything off and wanting your shop's ring tone on my phone just so I could go 'doo de doo doo". And recently just started saying "gravity" whenever I drop something. My wife thinks I'm going crazy!
Ticks me off😀!! I had to get into the engine of our vehicle and said, Let's poppin zhe hood. People think I have lost what was left of my mind.
Oh man I do it to. Had to go to my sons college and help him change his starter, that is help him, not do it for him....Was saying the same things. His college buddies that were helping were like your dad is wierd......I turned them on to Rays Channel. Four of them have subscribed and watch him now.... they dont teach auto shop anymore, this is the next best thing. has helped me many times
You are going crazy from being married to her:)
Eric from South Main Autos made the do de do noise when his shop phone rang on his post of a day or so ago. Ray is an Influencer it now seems. Good on you Ray! About this video, I can't imagine how that part could get bent without damaging something else.
I watched an older Eric O. Video yesterday and he said “Bright n Shiny” just like Ray. So, who is copying who?
I caught that too. I think they are both a tad mentally related. In other words they're both there because they're not all here.😋
It couldn't be. It was fubar from my mfg. Axle housing would have been pretzeled also
Maybe a so called mechanic 😵💫hack dropped it 😫at one time while taking it off for whatever reason !!!!
Well many YTers do refer to each other, even to Scotty Kilmer.
Sometimes they comment on each others videos.
Most of these guys upload videos to help others and in turn find help for difficult/unusual or unfamiliar problems. They want ways to diagnose and repair quicker, they are not looking for YT stardom.
I expect for those living in more remote parts it someone else to interact with, not the same locals, (bless their cotton socks)
Ray has 299K subscribers today. He'll be getting a 300K plaque soon. Congratulations Ray !!
I changed the oil and filters in my truck and my wife’s Ford Edge said click when tightening everything and made sure the oil filler caps were facing the correct position. Keep up the great work!!
Ya the cap and stick shouldn’t say 710
I haven't worked on cars for over 20 years, but can't start my day until I watch your video. Totally addicted!
Definitely a ray of sunshine excellent mechanic pleasure to watch , very rare breed honest so pleased you post on UA-cam Thank you
Thank you Ray you've answered the question it's been bugging me for about a year my wife slid down in embankment and ice storm and her vehicle is all been making a strange noise on the rear wheel haha now I have to look you've inspired me thank you sir
doing my t-ten, and studying for my ASE lately, and you really are giving the best notes i ever heard. I passed my A4 cause of your vocabularies and description of everything, and almost passed my A6 cause of it aswell (off by one) so thank you! im glad i found a GREAT technician on youtube!
Not only is your repair work 1st rate but the camera work is stellar!! Good job ray!! 👍🏆😎
I have this exact same year Cadillac Escalade. I had this exact same problem. I am a retired mechanic. I could not figure out why this was happening. It was intermediate. but the majority of the time you could hear it. I replaced everything. even the bracket that you're talking about troubleshooting. This had me stomped. What made it stop, I filed then polished the sides of the brake pad. I did this just trying to eliminate any issue there could be. that actually fixed it. I did try 3 diff pads while troubleshooting and the noise always returned. All from cheap too expensive to OEM. polishing the sides fixed it right away. The sides of the pads were just ruff enough to get caught on the brake inserts that the brake pad rides on. then it would rub. This might not be your problem but this was mine.
Ray,
Appreciate your channel. I'm no mechanic but I was once a fair electronics technician. Appreciate watching someone who has a clue troubleshoot a problem. And of course solving it.
Thank you Ray. You are super knowledgeable and thorough. I always learn from you great content.
I thought maybe we were gonna start grinding some metal away on the bracket. Hope you get parts soon. Thanks for the upload Ray.
Ray, I personally want to thank you for your great work. Finally a real mechanic! You have inspired me to get off my ass and get back into the garage and finish my projects. At 76 my energy isn't very good but I got the front end rebuilt on my Jeep XJ and heading to the front end shop for alignment and new tires. Thank again and I wished you lived here so I could just pay you and sit back and have a beer....
Check out South Main Auto Eric O is good too !
This guy is a very professional motor engineer-impressive
Thanks Ray for finding the problem with my Escalade 🥳
Very good diagnosis🙂
Interesting issue nice find on messed up caliper bracket @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Your 'bag of tricks' for diagnosing never ceases to amaze me, and entertain me too! Unfortunately dealerships are unwilling to take the time, and a lot of others don't have the mental skills for these difficult problems. But, you can do both, and that pays off handsomely for the customer and your employer! You are the best!
I want that torque wrench. So shiny! Such a satisfying sound!
Having owned a ASE shop for 30 years what Ray did was pretty good checking. What I stressed to all my employees might have helped, on any vech off the ground especially if you just reinstalled a wheel was to do the “ wiggle and shake “ to all four wheels , “wiggle it top to bottom, wiggle it right to left and shake it in and out”. That will pick up any suspension problems and in this case any hub,bearing or axel movements. Just a suggestion for a constant pattern that helps not only the customer but also sales. Hope you track the problem down without to much trouble.
I liked the work being done on the motorcycle tank ! End bench !,,
Good morning Ray 👍🏼✌🏼Enjoy your day be bless !
Love your torque wrench I have the same one I’ve had it for over 30 years it still works great 👍
ray put an indicater on the axle and check for runout. if it sit in the right position it wont show with toe in check . also check end play you can see the axles clean spot is out quite a ways.@8:39 seen those c clips in the diff housing shatter like glass but the brakes will hold the axle in. drum brakes the axle will leave on a long turn lol. i doubt the bracket only because it usually bends the axle tube where the 4 bolt flange is that it bolts to
Congrats from the UK on your 300k subscribers reached good sir.
👍👍for another great video, we all learned something today about this Caddy, Ray keep’m coming, have yourself a great day also
Hi Ray, I watch you when I can and call up your latest episode. I’m watching the Escalade 6.2. You are a true PRO. You always try to leave nothing to chance and take previous historical comments for what they are worth (most times not much). You logically approach problems with a well thought plan of attack in providing a solution that in fact solves the problem. Keep up the good work, stay safe and healthy.
And remember “Havr yourself a GREAT DAY!”
Tom from NY
Everyday and result in you from you thank you very much
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉Congratulations on 300K Ray!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Ray, those brackets are sooo close that perhaps a kiss from a grinder could eliminate the contact. I would think 1/16 of an inch off where it makes contact, would be plenty to correct the problem. It would not effect performance of the caliper.
Too simple right? That's thinking out of the box👍
That's what I was thinking. Possibly a legal issue of responsibility.
One time i had a small pebble wedged between the caliper and the rotor made a grinding sound...
@@bettymaverick1098 I think your right also.these days if they can prove you {MODIFIED} a safety component on a customers car and an accident occurred on said car that had to do with a braking action a good lawyer would tear you a NEW ONE IN COURT.And since those calipers are painted it's easier to tell.But also since they ARE painted the defense could imply the caliper painter himself or herself damaged the brake component in the act of replacing the caliper after painting.IF that is powder paint on it ,perhaps !!!! the heating of the paint and bracket caused warp-age of said part? The dealership is in the clear,they R&R factory parts, no mods.I am not a lawyer but used to wrench years ago.haha
Bad idea. There is something else at play here. My theory is that the axle is coming out of the tube, caused by a missing/broken/worn c clip on the axle inside the diff. The cover needs to be pulled and check the axle C clip. Grinding the caliper bracket will likely only allow the axle to come out even further. The bracket & rotor may be the only thing holding the axle in right now.
Good morning Raymond😃 from Chicago⛈ hope you and yours👨👩👧👦 are having a great day today! BROTHER 👍
Thanks Ray, for posting great content, taking care in properly diagnosing problems and caring about the customer's vehicle.
And making me say DO-DEE-DOO-DE-DOOO at my work phone.
oh and dont forget to tell all the customers ..... to make sure they have a great day.... and if they dont like that... then they can go down in the comments and ad a REEEEEEEEEEEEE..... lol 😆
If this was up in the north east I'd say pot hole. Yeah, they get that big. I once saw a Volkswagen Beetle in one!
"reverse click" to the song's "coming undone" in the background was just phenomenal timing... lol
Congrats on 300K!! I did like the video! Thumbs up given. END OF TRANSMISSION!
So finally you are at 300k subs. Congratulation Ray. I just saw the converting part from 299,000 to 300,000 but could not screen record it coz my memory went too low. 😁
Congratulations 💖😃🤑 Raymond on your 300,000🥳 subscribers😁😜🥳 BROTHER 👍👍👍👍👍👨🎓
Congrats on hitting 300K subs Ray! Well deserved...you're full of WIN in my book
Having heard your back story now, I can say you are simply amazing. You are incredibly smart and determined and should be commended! I know this is coming from a stranger, but as a mom, I am very proud of you 👍😊 Keep up the good work!
more weird alignment stuff. Interesting to troubleshoot and follow along. Most peeps can't do alignments so it's fun to watch and learn.
I absolutely hated to do alignments, you could show customers loose components visually the part and on the screen and they didn't want to spend the money to fix it even after they just spent a grand on new tires. I frequently asked them them if they want me to align it from here or there, glad to be retired.
8:40 What's that shiny area between the radius of the axle as it flares out to the wheel flange and the axle seal? How is it shiny while everything else is dirty? The width of the shiny part is about what you would need to push the wheel flange back toward the centerline of the vehicle to move the wheel flange and therefore the brake disc from rubbing on the outboard edge of the caliper bracket back toward being centered in the caliper.
My theory: something about the axle and/or axle bearing has allowed the axle to travel outboard, taking the wheel flange and therefore the brake disc outboard enough to cause it to rub on the outboard part of the caliper bracket. Wouldn't hurt to pop the cover off the rear diff and take a look. Maybe one of the C-clips is worn or blew up.
Yeah when he was saying axle tube I was thinking it would have to be axle
Yeah. I agree.
This sounds like a good theory
Yeah, I'm a time-cheapskate. I would have ground down the bracket where it was rubbing. Or bigger speakers.
About 2 min of grind work,lol
You are the best dam mechanic I know rock on tom the bike man in nj
I see what many of you are talking about "shiny axle by axle seal". Checking for excessive axle end-play "worn C-clip in the diff. Another thing that I noticed is relatively new rotor/drum maybe out of spec. Measure rotor face to wheel face on left and compare it to the right(passenger side)
RAY you'd be screwed if they ever change that office ringtone... Dooo Daaaa Doooo!!! LOL
Thank you for posting this entertaining and interesting video.
For the guy saying to shim the bracket, the components in the front driveline of a vehicle are designed with a very specific alignment. Shimming does nothing but throw off that balance. How large of a shim would you use? What would you measure to determine the proper size shim needed? Save the shade tree crap for your own vehicle...Ray has this one right. And, for the record...I am a GM retiree... a tool and die maker to be precise...and this vehicle was one of the programs I worked on..so I ACTUALLY know what I am talking about.
Axle Shaft is moving too far out? This happened to my wife's Yukon. The axle keeper was worn and caused the axle shaft to move out just enough to rub similar to this. Just a thought. Thanks
Side gear c-washer groove worn out, or a hard hit on the driver's side. Ask his kid if he was doing do-nutz and struck a curb ;-)
@@jamesplotkin4674 So right!
The axle shaft "button" at it's inner end in the differential side gear.
You're onto something there. The button can shear or partway begin to shear creating axle shaft walk.
It does happen.
And this new stuff they make is more prone to it, nowadays. You would want to check for tire/wheel having been replaced or a bad bruise on a tire. A slide in the vehicle that was brought to a halt abruptly in the past, maybe. Like on icy roads. Or in the wet.
Also, has the brake system destroyed it rear rotors before?
The parking brake or locked up rear brakes and stepping on the throttle can break rotors.
I would ask if I could read the whole service history, or it's service file. The more I think about it, the possibility was true on the Yukon, so, why not ?
C clips
@@Watchout1010 axle shaft button
Crash damage that was overlooked during rebuild? Broke wheel pushed into the caliper? Check the VIN history and body for any signs of crash and rebuild witness marks. Also possible wheel lugs weren't tightened at one point and wheel fell off, same scenario of wheel pushing into caliper and bending bracket.
If I can guess - red colour paint in contact areas 🙃
Having recently built a rear Dana 44 from an old 87 Wagoneer, and then adapting the brake backing plates from a 07 Jeep Liberty to bolt up to the axle tube flanges so I could use a factory type brake setup for easy part availability. The original drum brake backing plate is 7/64 thick stamped steel and the Jeep Liberty's disc brake backing plate is 9/32 thick cast steel, the axle shaft is of the non C clip flavor so it's retained by a bearing plate with 4 bolts passing thru it and the backing plate and the axle tube flange. Increasing the thickness of the backing plate required welding some spacers to the bearing retainer plate to provide enough pressure to the bearing, and suck the axle far enough into the housing. While testing to determine the required thickness of the spacers to be welded to the bearing retainer plate, I discovered that if too thin or thick, the caliper bracket would rub on the rotor. I'm thinking this has something to do with a wheel bearing not properly installed on the axle shaft therefore not locating the hub face correctly. Or there's interference between rotor and wheel studs or rotor is incorrect. Someone mentioned busted C clips... If the axle was a C clip flavor, and the C clip was broken, the axle would be free to slide out of the housing with that bracket removed and would cause a whole hell of a lot more racket!
I had a problem on my Ford truck where the front rotors would touch the caliper, but only during a stop which heated the rotor up enough to get it to expand and touch the caliper.
The clearance was that small.
It turned out someone had fitted Courier rotors to my Ranger, and the diameter was different.
So, this probably also only made contact after some heavy braking, hence your test did not reveal it during the test drive.
I am the same problem with the Ford F-250 pickup. The rotor hit the brake caliper on every turn. I ended up taking the rotor back to to AutoZone and returned it for a new one. It took over a week to figure out and solve the problem.
Yesterday I experienced the dreaded mini ratchet gravity, twice. Thankfully, the two screws pulled into its black hole did not fall into a floor vent gravity!
Floor vent in a workshop has to be a nightmare 🥲
I loved this video. Thanks Ray
I once had a problem like that grinding only when turning right and it turned out to be a severely worn wheelbearing on the left side and the disc was grinding into the caliper carrier bracket because of the amount of movement in the bearing.
I had a rear wheel grinding noise on right hand cornering in a Tundra, found out there was a TSB for it. Something to do with axle end play under load. Was out of warranty but suprisingly Toyota re-imbursed me for 1/2 the repair bill. Maybe I should have just shimmed it ;) 😂
Edit: Grats on 300K subs !
Thanks Ray for another great troubleshooting vid.
Reeee....I had a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a similar complaint just a few months ago. Turned out the axle was coming out of the axle housing because the bearing was starved for oil and wearing out. At 8:39 I see a bit of shiny on the axle shaft. This truck has a different style axle from the Jeep (jeep is bolt in axle vs the C-clip style) but I think I'd pull the cover and inspect for a missing/broken/worn C-clip in the rear diff. It looks to me like that axle is coming out of the tube. The rotor and the bracket are the only thing holding it in. Hope Ray sees this...
Bingo 👊🏻
i would double check to make sure the right rotors were put on that thing.i've had alot of gm trucks where the hat of the rotor was just a little bit taller thus giving you the clearence you need.
Good on whoever is still jamming to CAKE in your shop.
They're why my wife has a short skirt and a long jacket
Not really sure why but I always mix up cake and weezer
I had the same problem with my Trans Am. After firing the parts cannon at it. From front hubs to rebuilding the rear axle I found it was the shim for the rear brake pads rubbing on the rotor.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but brake mounting brackets don't bend by themselves. They are quite stout. Would be interesting to get more history on this vehicle to see if this rubbing noise is only recent of after an accident repair of the left rear. Only way I could think of is if the car slid sideways, hit a curb, the wheel bent (and also many other things) and all the obvious bent bits were replaced. But would have to have been one hell of a whack. But Ray (or the history he has) does not mention any of that. To my mind, fixing it is one thing - finding out what caused it, and preventing that happening again, if it is not obvious, is the next level after the repair. Retired mechanic and machinist from Land Down Under.
As others have stated, always look forward to your content and commentary!
And a special hooray for Mr. Ray at hitting the 300,000 subscriber mark!
U have super diagnosing skills
First thing aftermarket rotors .. Escalade does not come with slotted rotors possible rotors to wide, mic rotors with factory first.
As soon as I saw the performance slots on the rotor I wondered if the hat depth on the rotors is wrong, might be worth ordering a new set of rotors to compare.
Obviously couldn’t see all that you did, but that sure seems like an odd part to bend without a lot more damage to other stuff.
Could have been a manufacturing defect that grew worse over time from normal wear and tear.
Here on the farm I would jack up the noisy wheel. Block the rest with firewood. Put it in gear and listen for the problem. Pull the tire off and look harder.
The brake hardware looked like a PowerStop kit, nice stuff but the powdercoat is real thick and they don't mask the places that are supposed to be metal to metal-- like the caliper bracket! Might be worth a look.
"Not supposed to be able to use one of these with one hand"
The first lift I learned to use was at a small town GM dealership and their lifts were of the two-post hydraulic type that had floor-mounted levers that you used your feet on. Easy enough but they didn't lift at the same speed due to the front end of most every car is heavier due to the engine and if you had a diesel or big block pickup on there, you really had to watch out.
And...the floor levers put you right in front of the vehicle so if you got distracted, you could conceivably drop it off the front post right into your chest.
100% its the aftermarket brake kits (RED with holes in the rotors) had the same happen to me on my 07 ESV. I used a die grinder to said point of rub.all fixed... BTW those wheels are 22" not 20"
Inspect for a mis-assembly... an extra spacer of some sort pushing the caliper toward center of vehicle could cause that issue.
Or (much less likely) the axle trying to "crawl out of the tube" could do it.
What affixes the axle shaft to the differential gears in that? I've seen an axle come right out while the car was driving down the road. (not with disc brakes) His brakes might be holding the wheel on.
Good morning Ray
It actually looks as though the half shaft is protruding from the bearing and has been working its way free from the press fit. There is a clean ring around the base of the half shaft hub where it used to be seated against the bearing race and is no longer. This would explain the brake disk shift but lack of alignment error.
GOOD MORNING RAY! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Idk if you said that those brackets were aftermarket, but I’ve had to shim aftermarket caliper brackets to get the rotor in perfect center. Just my 2 cents
Exactly what I was saying,lol
Those are after market backets and calipers which have been powdercoated. Powder coating can cause clearance issues. Also i suspect it is not the correct assembly for this car.
My buddy took the rear break rotor and put it on the front when he did all 4 break and the Front rotors where not lined up correctly but still fit caused all sorts of rubbing
Ya gotta love how the Cadillac dealer appreciates its customers! They’re junk to begin with but when people spend the $ you’d think they’d be looked after, or at the very least have the problem diagnosed.
Ray is always putting out great Content!
Good work
The part that the caliper bracket is bolted to....
That's placing the caliper bracket close to the rotor on assembly at the upper and outer clearance between the caliper bracket that carries the rear brake pads, and the rotor's assembled location
I couldn't see how it controls the vertical or horizontal plane of the axle shaft flange.
This means the axle assembly has been struck?
The wheel struck something?
Axle flange radial or lateral runout?
C-clip worn thin somehow? In the side gear? The axle shaft is WALKING it's coming out and you should inspect the driver's differential side gear, the button on the axle, and the C-clip.
Then, in the video, we inspect rear camber and rear toe.
Meaning the tire is leaning or scuffing?
It boggles the mind that the housing bosses are a part that bolts on, but I will see when you disassemble.
No disassemble number Jonny five !
We will require patience and observation to grasp this. Need input !
I think the sasquatch was behind the assembly and peeking around but it was just for a split second.
Waiting patiently for part two.
If the same measurements are taken, we can see any change that occurs to rear camber and toe.
Hope they cover your time and we get to see the readings.
The customer may need a print out if it's an insurance claim brought after knowledge of cause.
I don't know yet if that makes sense.
I am thinking the axle shaft has play in and out of the side gear in the diff. There's a possibility the button is not good at the C-clip.
I don't imagine there's any way the mount for the caliper bracket was able to be bent without destroying a tire and or wheel. Another thing we didn't see was: has one of the tire/wheel assemblies been replaced prior to it coming in to rays shop?
I would pull the diff cover.
That's where I am on this one.
And I haven't had to repair a caliper frames rear end housing mount ever. Unless, of course the diff was slammed.
The wheel alignment being off could indicate if the axle shaft was walking out of the diff and it could cause adjusting the front toe to result in a steering wheel that won't come out straight.
Ya falla?
We shall see.
It's a good thing you didn't create additional clearance, because a walking axle will continue to walk.
Then during figure 8 maneuvers in a parking lot, it will try to grind harder and harder against that caliper frame. The customer may think his LR brake is grabbing except the sound it makes would negate that.
Wish I was there at the inspection.
But you're thousands of miles from me.
If it was forced to drive with the parking brake on, it would destroy the brake rotors.
Did they get replaced previously?
That's the other thought for Rays idea of the bracket and or support.
It’s true, those GM bracketed calipers have become hard to get ahold of. The Core has risen to as much as the part itself is. I work at Autozone and I get tons of upset customers these days. If you find a good deal on something right now, you better get it while you can.
You are awesome. I love the way 🤔
Congrats on 300K
Welcoming back!
Simple solution for unwanted noise - increase radio volume. Done.
….and when the noise drowns out the radio? Fit a louder radio !
@@jonathanlevoir4998 What's this giving away trade secrets!
almost 300K subs now. WOW!
Ray they have this amazing thing invented back in the 1600’s called a flat file that could be used to knock the corner off the caliper bracket.
It seems that (to me) when you get older, the less you worry about faults. I used to worry about squeaks and scraping noises, now my attitude is.. .. screw it! I'll fix it when it explodes.. . noises.. . that's what the volume button on the radio's for.
300k bro, congrats!