I have high prescription and now im using ultra lens 1.6 i wish i have known this sooner. just got my glasses and i hope doctors would have this knowledge and share this to their patients so they can choose better frames and have the ultimate comfort possible.
This is the single most helpful video for frame choice I've seen, and I've seen a fair share. From someone who has to wear (high prescription) glasses and never knew what to look out for when picking new glasses: Thank you!
This has been extremely helpful. I've worn glasses since 1st grade and am now 25 and can't believe all the stuff I never knew about glasses. I won't impose on Optometrists when I get a new pair but will be more thoughtful of frames I choose.
As a patient who's had high prescription glasses since preschool (almost -11 already at age 25), it is NOT simply fashion that causes stubborn patients like myself to insist on the largest frame possible. Think about how different sizes of frames could significantly impact the overall quality of life for some one with such a strong prescription. With small lenses, I can only see what's centered right in front of my face, which means having to fully turn my head to see anything, and the contrast between my corrected vision against my nearly-blind peripheral vision is extremely disorienting. Yes, big lenses with big prescription do cause fish-eye-lense effect, but not only is that far less disorienting then the tunnel vision caused by small frames, but the fish-eye distortion usually only ever lasts for a few days to maybe almost a week at most, before my brain adjusts and compensates for it. After that, any warped visual affects from the lenses becomes invisible to my perception until the next new pair of glasses I get
Thanks for posting. I'm certainly not about to argue with you. Obviously it is working well for you. I've said it a 1000 times, if something works well for you, keep doing it. Peace. John
Consumers should have different size models of the same glasses style. Instead of having hundreds of fashion models, a competing optical shop could have only a few basic models, then different colors added to those, then different several PD sizes, and several bridge sizes. So, one "model" frame might have several colors, PD's and bridges, meaning 27 variations. And if a shop had several models, round, oval and rectangular, then that would be 71 different eyeglasses. It could be marketed to those with high myopia. Instead, EVERY optical shop has the same selection of LARGE FRAMES to pick from. None have the round 38mm frames that I can get from China, for instance. I suppose the lack of consumer choice does pressure them to purchase expensive high index lenses for moderate myopia. So perhaps the optical shop industry considers offering Real Choice in custom fit eyeglasses (like a shoe shop) would atrophy the industry. The moderate myopia market would probably start picking inexpensive polycarbonate lens. And, fashion would develop towards smaller custom fit frames rather than huge eyeglasses, that I believe the future generation will laugh at. Because in reality, the styles offered by optical shops are ridiculously impractical. It's sort of like forcing everyone, men, women, children, into high heal shoes for the sake of industry profit. So I say until our optical shops get their acts together and start offering consumers the choice they want, then shop China instead
This is glorious, I been tryin to find out about "why do varifocals have peripheral distortion?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Rayemiron Uncommunicative Release - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one off product for discovering how to improve your eyesight naturally minus the headache. Ive heard some awesome things about it and my co-worker got cool results with it.
In all the years I have been to opticians like Specsavers, Boots, Vision Express etc, I never heard one of them mention the width of the frames is important to get the best PD. Once you pick your frames from the display, that's you done. There is no options in various sizes in the style of frames you choose to get the best fit. What you end up with is frames that have been tried on by hundreds, maybe thousands of customers before you. I have asked for new frames in the past, as opposed to having to use the ones from the display, but always end up with the frames I took from the display as evidenced by wear on the temples. The up side to this is, if you are given worn frames and you are not happy with your glasses overall, that alone is grounds for a full refund, you can even negotiate a hefty discount.
I can assure you that no one else has ever asked for a copy of one of my poems. I'm afraid that one was so long ago now that I'd never find the hard copy. Glad you liked it! John
I have a grade of -5.75 for both eyes Right CYL : -1.50 LEFT CYL - 1.75 Right axis : 4 Left axis: 173 Ipd right :32 Ipd left :31 VA: 20 Can I use metal frames by using 1.67 high index lenses? Or should I get the plastic and round type? What is ur suggestion
If your going for progressive lenses, definitely get the smaller frames, high index lenses usually thiner and lighter. Do not get frames that is bigger and deeper. You can hide the thickness of your lenses if you go for plastic frames. Theres some metal frames that is ok also to use even if you have a higher prescription. And also don't get the partly rimless frame, because you have high prescription, its heavier.
Radin, Find a good optician! The thinnest lens currently available is a high-index 1.74. A high-index 1.67 may work quite well also. Frame choice is easy = the smallest thing that fits properly! Small, oval, simple. Look around the video page I cover frame size and thickness too. And -6.25 is high but not all that unusual. And of course - contact lenses! John
Laramy-K Optical i have more question regarding the lenses.. how to reduce the lens reflection..? My lens got very high reflection that everyone could notice i have high prescription..
If possible plastic frame. If not no edge polish. Ask for center bevel on finished lens instead of hide-a-bevel. Get the best AR coating you can get. 1.74 lenses always come with AR. Keep the frame size as small as you can and that is about everything that can be done. Well, except for wearing contact lenses of course!
Hi thanks a lot for this video. I got -9.50 for both eyes and will get a new pair of glasses. I will take notes on small, simple, oval frames. My question: which one will look better for my eye power, thick plastic frames or thin ones?
As a rule a plastic frame does a much better job of masking some of the edge thickness with power like -9.50. Even a "thin" plastic frame will be a little thicker than an ordinary metal one. I'd lean towards plastic. Plastic can also be more comfortable over time because of the way it sits on your nose. -9.50 is going to have some weight to it and nosepads on metal frames can cause issues. Not to say you couldn't find a great pair of metal frames if that is what you want most! John
Sadly you just need to shop around as much as possible. Charmant is a company that comes to mind. All the big names have online searches available to the optician. Where they can plug in all the measurements. There is no reason they can't find one for you - that is their job.
In my opinion there is enhanced way to send data to lab. Dot the lenses as you suggest, then re-mount them into the frame. Photograph or (preferably) scan the frame with a mm ruler in the photo. Include A, B, and DBL measurements so lab can check scale. If you use camera, use the longest focal length possible and move camera back (zoom in, not electronically!) and photograph in a stand that keeps camera square to frame. (This reduces perspective distortion.) Do frame tracers have a universal file format for the trace? (and can this file be extracted from the tracer?) If so, send the lab the file, along with patient IPD's AND FITTING HEIGHT. If they don't, petition the industry to establish a standard format! Every optical practice should have a dedicated camera setup for photographing patient's faces and frames. Side benefit is the ability for patient to "virtual try-on" for frames and for viewing by others who could not be present during the selection. This should be as common as a mirror, lensometer or IPD instrument in the practice.
For all the reasons mentioned in the video I can't really answer that question. A 53 for an ordinary size male sounds about right. Just follow RULE #1 - wear the smallest frame possible that still fits correctly. -5 is getting up there but not too bad.
SIR I wear -4.50 in right eye and -5.50 in left eye.plz suggest me wether I should choose hi index lense in a small frame or normal plastic lense in a small frame.I am in great trouble and wasted a lot of money after lenses but don't feel comfortable yet
If you came to me I'd lean towards a 1.60 nothing higher. Depending on how small the frame and the shape you might do just fine with basic plastic or CR-39. Those powers are stock so a good optician could show you exactly how thick the edge may be when mounted. Stay with a small frame that fits. Get a great AR coating. Go to someone you trust, not online. John
Thanks for your videos Sir. Please tell us where you put the optical center along the B position. Is it in B/2 or you take the pupil height. Thanks for your answer.
I have -3. 25 sph and -2. 50 cyl axis 5 in right eye And -3. 25 sph and -1. 50 cyl axis 175 In left eye What should I do What kind lenses should I wear Should I wear round glasses Should I wear small frame size
What you don't mention is that some customers are so adamant about wanting the huge frames that are the trend now. It's difficult to explain function over fashion to a trendy consumer with a high script and a narrow PD. How do you counter that?
But I do mention that... fashion be damned. If your customer is really high power they know that. Use it your advantage. "Look, you know you have a really high prescription, if you go with that frame you are going to be really, really unhappy." Take charge! Be willing to say, no. -7.50 - 100 X 89 in an aviator with a 73 A, no, just say no.
You talk about selecting frames that are close or equal to your eye PD. How do you measure or calculate frame PD? If my Bridge should be 18mm, and my PD is 29.5/30.5, what width of frame lens should I get? If a lens in a particular frame is 52mm wide with a 18mm bridge, does this frame have a frame PD of 52/2 + 18/2 = 26 + 9 = 35/35 mono PD or 70 Bino PD? Since a frame has each lens the same size and if it, let's say, has a 18mm bridge, then the width of the lens (for a frame with a 18mm bridge) would need to be approx (30 - 18/2) x 2 = 42mm this is b/c the left or right PD includes half the bridge and half the lens. To get the lens, I would double the value (hence the ' X 2 '). I also have a temple width of about 137mm (based on the width of frames that fit me bet as measured between the paddles when opened). So the fram will need to have 137 - 18 - (2 x 42) = 35mm /2 (each side extension beyond the frame) = 17.5 mm extension off each lens frame to connect the paddles. Do they even make such a frame? These things will lok like a pair of Ben Franklins!! Help!!
@@LaramyKOptical thank you. That helps a lot!! So back to my example. So the glasses have listed on them 52 -16-140. From these numbers the FPD is 52+16 = 68 and will be a little big for me. So the 16 is the DBL and is that the width of the bridge? I was under the impression that was used to see if the glasses fit one’s nose and is the space between the pads but, if I understand, that is not the pad width but is the closest distance between the lens. So let’s pretend I have a PD =60, I am going to need either a rather tiny DBL, rather small width lens or both? Correct? What do I do if I have a rather fat head ( head width at the temples =135mm)? Will the paddles need to be bent to accommodate or how will the extra Fran width be done? Also, does the width of ones eye come into play when selecting a lens width? I do not want to feel like I have blinders on or am always peering down a binary microscope. You have been super helpful and have been watching a ton of your videos learning so much. Some of what I have learn I feel should have been passed on by someone at the optician. I think I get more SWAT - Sell What’s Available Today. More salesman and less doctor
@@frank3722 I think you have missed the single most important word I use in all the videos on frame fit which is, "close." As close as possible while still fitting properly. I think you are overthinking this just a tiny little bit. My own PD is actually 58 (very narrow) and I have a fairly wide head and quite a reach from frame front to behind the ear so yes getting the perfect fit is a little tricky but I have found 40, 50, 60 odd pairs over the years that worked just fine and looked absolutely amazing! I'm currently in a bunch of fairly round in both plastic and metal. I think your last statement sums it up well - you just need to hunt around and find a good (real) optician. Maybe search for or ask around for an independent optician owned place. So - you are aiming for as close as you can get to frame PD - human PD match but that rarely if ever happens. I can't recall if you were the person I already mention this to - remember the higher end fully rimless or drill or 3-piece mounts can be customized to no end. YOU choose the lens size, YOU choose the bridge size, YOU choose the temple length. Look at Silhouette and they may also help you find a good optician. Look for the place that does A LOT OF THEM and they are sure to nail it!
I thought I had heard that Frame PD should be between 1mm to 3mm wider on each side. Was what I thought I heard likely supposed to be the maximum one should have a frame centerpoint outside the pupil centerpoint, opposite the nasal side? I'm a consumer with a -10 eyeglasses prescription and want to shop for a frame that can support the thinnest lens possible, and I am researching so that I can be a knowledgeable consumer and not get stuck with thicker lens than I have to. Also, my prescription calls for spherical lens. I have heard of double aspheric lens used for High Myopia that feature a cosmetic outer edge that stays thinner on the outside, while maintaining good vision towards the center of the lens. I might have misunderstood. Is it possible to request that from typical optical shops, or is that very specialized, and is that not suitable to do if one has a prescription that says "spherical" if one is okay compromising some of the peripheral vision correction? I wear contacts that are -9.0 (gas permeable) and I wear them 16 hours a day. I only want these eyeglasses for special days that I can't wear contacts, and after I take them out late at night. GREAT VIDEO!! Thank you for posting it, and allowing everyone on UA-cam access to this GREAT information :-)
Mark, Not sure where you found that but it wouldn't be realistic for 90% of the population. Just follow the rules in the video and go for the smallest possible frame (eyewire opening) that fits well. John See also: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
I have a right eye p.d. of 30, and a left eye p.d. of 28. You stated that the frame p.d. should match as closely as possible to the patient p.d.. Since my right eye p.d. is different than my left eye p.d., would I divide my frame p.d. by 2, and then would I match each eye p.d. with whatever the "frame p.d. divided by 2" would be? This would be for purchasing single vision distance prescription eyeglasses. I hope my question makes sense.
@@LaramyKOptical I am having a hard time finding round or oval shaped eyeglass frames online that match the bridge width (15-18) that I am looking for. Also, most of the frames have a lens height of 40 or more, which is way too big for my face. My right eye is -9.00 sphere with -0.75 cylinder, and my left eye is -8.25 sphere with -1.50 cylinder. I have a right eye P.D. of 30, and I have a left eye P.D. of 28. The bridge of my nose is above the level of my eyes. It's been very difficult for me to find round or oval shaped frames online that match what I am looking for. Does the frame HAVE TO be a round shaped or oval shaped frame for me to have the best vision as possible (based on my prescription)?
@@rainbow20112011 Round - oval is the best possible SHAPE for powers as high as yours are. It doesn't have to do with best vision but about edge thickness. A "B" of 40 does sound quite large. You might not like my actual answer which is, "Don't shop online with powers like yours!" (I have nothing against online shopping for lower single vision glasses.)
I was using a metal frame specs and now i recently got new one of plastic frame ... The thickness of one wuth plastic frame is greater than the metal one ...Is it normal ?
Correct or pupillary distance if you want to get fancy. The proper tools actually measure the visual axis of the eye which may or may not be the same as pupil center. Important when powers are high or measuring for a progressive.
priyanshu, -3.25 and -3.00 are not very high powers. If you came into our center I'd probably cut you polycarbonate 1.586 or Trivex 1.53. Both polycarbonate and Trivex are sold under all different names. Just in case: If you meant -3.00 -3.25 X ________ then I would probably go with high-index 1.60. John
hi... 2 prescriptions, same index but one has thicker lenses (because of bad frame choice). does it mean less clarity? and if so then why? because that farther the light need to go inside the lens the more degraded is going to be the vision?
This I believe could be my problem with the progressives that I had made twice at sams club vision center. But now going for my third remake or just get a refund. Or go somewhere else. I did get the high index for my prescription. It was supposed to have been the best. My glasses I feel are too large for progressives. Even though they are just 53-15-135 and vertical is 36 I feel my pd is not placed correctly on the lenses. When I stand facing front with different objects in my field of vision, I cannot get a clear focus as I move my eyes at different levels. And find as the optician called it the sweet spot. Nothing sweet if you cant see clearly or focus. Ugh. I stopped by walmart and spoke with an optician I know thats been there for 12 years. She was so kind when I told her my problem. She suggested I go smaller lense with adjustable nose piece. I think shes onto my problem and has some knowledge and good experience. Is there anything I can do. I cant even read clearly with my progressives without tilting my head up and looking so far down like almost closing my eyes from upclose to 17 inches away. Its very straining. My prescription is not bad. Its only +0.50 -0.50. Axis 085. Near add +2.25 for both eyes. How can I overcome these obstacles. At first i thought it was me. But I still cant see upclose without raising my glasses. Im frustrated. Thank you for these free videos. But since im a painter I need upclose, midrange and distance. Hopefully I will find the solution.
+0.50 (+) -0.50 = 0.00 You don't really have a "prescription" of any kind. You should have perfect vision in at least one if not two of the zones you need most (probably distance) so I'd look for a lens and frame that lets you access what you need by looking over or under the rest? Heck I'd bet a good single-vision pair set up for your intermediate would do the trick. Heck try some drug store readers at +1.00 or +1.25 and see how that goes for painting. $14.99 sure beats $449. John
@@LaramyKOptical ive been using drug store readers for 15 years. I started out .50 then .75, 1.00 on up to now at 2.00 plus otc readers. Lol. I realize my prescription is low but up close like a few inches up to about 10 feet. And still cant see well and very blurry up 16 inches away. Even though its not bad I still need to see. I may go to the midrange workspace progressives I can get online for less than a hundred. And also some upclose detail readers. I have prescription for both. Im highly sensitive and yes probably difficult to fit knowing I work up from a few inches to paint details. Then viewing for editing painting on the easel by standing about 10 to 12 feet back. I also have very small cataract beginning in both eyes and another problem which preceeds the development of glaucoma but dr said it may never develop. Something about concave shape I think. I know these are different issue and could very possibly be affecting what im going through since im highly sensitive. My. Dad had macular degeration and went blind. Thank you very much for all your help.
No. A plus lens is thinner at the edge than at the center. But as power increases so does thickness across the entire lens including the edge. It may appear that way in low powers but as soon as you hit 3 and above even a plus lens edge thickness grows quite rapidly.
I prefer to wear contact lenses I’m a -10.50 and a -11 I think with toric lenses...but eye infections and you occasionally run out earlier than expected. I’m always willing to pay more for the contacts needed for my high power. I have an eye appointment next week. I am never satisfied or able to see well enough out of glasses. I basically get a new pair when I can for fall back when my eyes are tired or infections. It would SO nice to get a pair of glasses I can actually see out of . I didn’t listen to the lady last year and got rectangle lenses which made a bad cold bottle affect. Sadly mine will probably always do that. I think I’m glasses I’m near -13 . Very nearsighted. Stigmatism in one eye as well. I’m searching the internet for the best frames for a high prescription like mine. I’m not able to go to Costco and Walmart anymore I have to go to a private company who can manage my high prescription. The problem is with such heavy lenses and most frames don’t have the nose pieces anymore they constantly slide and I can’t see out of them near as good as contacts. Any advice or brand of frames or size I should get? Thank you!
Frame advice, no. Just what you see in the video(s). I would hope that going to an independent shop would be a good thing. Just keep shopping until you find a great optician. If they are guiding you to the simplest shapes and smallest sizes and are talking about free-form or digital lenses and a good AR you probably have a winner. Reading between the lines it sounds like you already know that seeing "better" is probably about as good as it is going to get. There are issues going from contacts to glasses that nothing can overcome. See also: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
Sir, I have +5.00 and +7.50, just got a 1.74 index glasses, but it's way thicker than my old 1.64 index one (+5.00 and +5.50). I don't understand why. Is it possible to shift the lenses to the edge when cutting it to fit the frame to get thinnest part?
Maybe a typo but that is a 2.00 diopter increase in power so I would expect it to be thicker. I'm not really sure I can add anything to what I cover in the video and in this one: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
Very good video sir. I watched many videos of you. Sir r u an Optometrist ?You have very good knowledge and your explanation is very good. Posts some videos about progressive lenses too.
I'm really interested in a Ted Baker B747 frame ... but.. I am -8.50 in my left eye and -8.00 in the right.. and that is not a up to date script. It has been 2 years since I have been to the dr. Would that even be an option for me?
Brittany, I have no idea what at Ted Baker B747 looks like or what sizes it comes in or what size you might need! Check out the video we just did a few months ago: Size & Shape Matter But You Matter More. The answer for high power people never changes: Always ggo with the smallest frame possible. John
We are almost literally the same prescription. Have you gotten your glasses? All I know is the smaller the less thick the lenses will be but I really don't want small lenses :(
Mines -7.5 on left eye still not perfect vision and right eye is ignored by Brian because it's 90% blurred lol. I accidentally bought square frame and regret because it makes my eyes smaller and face little bigger 😂
Viji, Lens size is covered in the video about MBS or minimum blank size. ED or effective diameter is a frame measurement not a lens measurement. MBS and ED go together. John
That was a brilliant video and very educational. I do have a question I would like to ask you about. I have a prescription of around -5, and I want to choose a thin lens. If I were to opt in for a 1,74 index lens, what frame should I go for? I've tried multiple frames and most of them are 51-53 which may turn out too be too thick around the edges considering its size and anything below 50 is way too small and weird for my face shape and form. I have been to all optics in my city and they are really not helpfull at all. Also I would like to mention that some places that sell 1,74 index lenses is alot more cheaper than other optics, why is that? they tell me that the material is different and all that but what material is the thinnest? I really don't care about the weight. Thank you.
A 1.74 is a 1.74 and 1.74 IS A MATERIAL. You can't say there is a price difference because of the type of material. Check out the other videos --- wear as small as you can, wear as round as you can, get a high index material 1.6X to 1.74 and that is about all you can do. If you stumble on a great optician you could insist on surfaced lenses from the lab match to your frame but that might be dreaming. John
Good morning, Liking the content on this channel and you seem passionate and knowledgeable about what you do. Anyway if I'm allowed I want to expose my concerns: I have right now +2.75 rx 1.60 ri glasses, but from the last visit it resulted to be a weak rx, so I have now to put +3.50 glasses. I have fairly big round glasses, that with +2.75 prescription resulted in a somehow good way that I tend to accept and like. My concern is that with the lens "upgrade" the result will be bad and the bobble effect on my eyes will be more than it already is and will be too much for me to deal with. What should I do? Keep the frame and go with super high index lenses, change frame or what? Are farsightedness lenses thicker than myopia lenses? Why? Thank you. Appreciate your work
Short answer: Get out of those, "fairly big round glasses" and go with some smaller or mid-sized round glasses instead. Stick with a 1.60 to 1.67. Make sure the optician does careful measurements and you should be good to go. Round is not a great choice for plus but if you like the look then you stick with it, just go smaller. John
Thank you for the prompt reply. Why isn't round a good choice for plus? (Anyway I'm not stuck with round) I thought that round is better for the diameter, and smaller size is better. I have a medium face and my glasses right now are 49 for the lens measure. Before this pair I had a pair of moscot lemtosh, size 44, but I don't like how they look on my face cause they're too small and the frame is too bulky@@LaramyKOptical
@@giordanopioli1922 Just an old-school take on things. Plus lenses magnify and since the iris is round a round frame tends to add a little to the "bug-eye" look of plus lenses. Round shape, round lens, round iris, slight "rounded fish eye" image of a plus lens... Not a rule or even necessarily a big deal just an old rule-of-thumb. And, yep, smaller is always better. As small as you can go and still have a great fit! John
@@LaramyKOptical thank you! Don't intend to bother you, but I have another last question/curiosity: are plus lenses generally thicker than minus lenses for miopia? Is it just my impression or at a equal level of prescription, let's say +3.00 and -3.00, minus lenses are generally thinner opposite to plus lenses that are thicker? Is it just me or is it a thing?
@@giordanopioli1922 Yep! Plus lenses tend to be thicker. Much harder to control thickness in plus than it is in minus. Plus are thick in the middle, minus at the edge, but, that gets complicated real quick when you start with powers and size and index and decentration, center thickness requirements and, and, and...
Thanks for these videos. Am learning alot about what I need for my vision aids - frames and lenses (I'm a wearer, not optician). A few follow up questions about proper pupil position. My situation -- Am moving into my 2nd pair of progressives at age 50. Had current pair for a long time - 7 years. My prescription has changed somewhat. Distance from -6 to -5.5. Add power from +1.5 to +1.75 Question #1: I read recently that with progressive lens, it's recommended for your pupil to be 1/3 from the top of the lens. This is different than your recommendation of be centered vertically and horizontally this video. Can you please comment on this difference of advice? Question #2: Relates to another video about corridor length. Think you mentioned a lens designer said 18 mm is an ideal corridor length. This might not be enough data but, my situation: - Current highbrow type of frame with oval-ish lens height = 36 mm, width = 47mm, bridge = 20mm - Am interested in an oval frame with lens height = 41mm, width = 47mm, bridge = 22mm Do you think the lens corridor is a big change between these frames? After this watching this video I noticed my pupils are off-center (narrow) a touch on the new frames. Any guidelines on when the off-centeredness is a large concern...functionally, not concerned about edge thickness. (FYI -- from your Consumer Buying Guide, I became aware of cheek touch at the bottom of the new frames...so, likely to look for different frames with slightly less height) Thanks, in advance, for your help here.
Every single one of your questions comes down to the same answer: I can't really say without seeing the frames on you. They may be perfect but depending on the fit they may be quite horrible for progressive use. I'd do your best to find a competent independent optician. All you need "above" the distance portion of the progressive lens is enough that nothing is lost. That will vary a little by lens design but it is extremely rare to have any above the center line issues. I don't recall saying that your eye should be near the center vertically for a progressive? Corridor length has little to do with frame size. Just make sure that when they mark up or dot up or take the picture that they have a fitting height of about 18. Then hopefully they will also choose a lens design with an 18 corridor length. Then all will be well. If it is less than 17 I'd look for another frame. If it is over 18 it should be just fine if they choose a lens with a 18 corridor. Heck the height could be 34 but you still use a 18. You are going down a little in power in distance and only up a little in add so that is working in your favor.
@@LaramyKOptical Thanks for your comments and advice here. Much appreciated. FYI - you didn't say anywhere...in the videos I've watched or the Consumer's Buying Guide that eyes should be centered vertically and horizontally for progressive lens. In the Consumer Guide, there are slides that suggest centered pupils is recommended for lens. My interpretation - is the case for single-vision. I learned the vertical positioning - recommended 1/3 from the top of the lens -- from an article...can't recall the website. Thanks again for your advice. Your videos have given me the idea to become an optician for a career change!
I've switched to round glasses because my rectangular ones gave poorer vision when gazing "toward the nose". I'm only a -2.5 Myopic. Outward gazing does not seem to diminish vision much (except that the other eye is of course gazing inwards toward the nose, if kept open) I went from this frame : i1.go-optic.com/w450,h450/Jai%20Kudo_575_M08.jpg To a variety of round frames which were better for this inner gaze distortion. Wondering what a person sensitive to inner gaze distortion should look for. I've *NOT* tried any higher end options, such digital lenses, or Zeiss Indivisual stuff ($$). Just CR-39 and low/mid/high-index from a variety of places. Or should I give up on non-round lenses completely? Note: if this comment section is inappropriate for customer questions please link me to an optician in Canada that has a vague familiarity with this problem.
zeldamaniac, It sounds like you are doing a pretty great job self-diagnosing all on your own! You mention the Zeiss Individual which (at least here in the US) is a progressive design. Assuming you are wearing a progressive the sensation you describe is called "swim." Beyond what you are doing I'm afraid your only other option is going with a higher-end digital or free-form lens design. All progressives have what we called peripheral unwanted astigmatism and all you can do is reduce it but never eliminate it. You may find a lower cost alternative to a big-name brand if you ask around for a store that has IOT free-form lens designs sold under their own house brand. Don't tell anyone but I actually wear an old fashioned lined bifocal since I prefer them to the progressive lens designs. No distortion, inexpensive and easy to use too. ;-) John
The lab says, "Most likely a 1.67 possibly with a minus-front or a bi-convex grind depending on all the other parameters." Of course you would want to follow all the guidelines in the video! Sorry but you will never have a "thin" lens with power like that but you can do some things to get the thinnest possible. We would be happy to work with an optician to design a lens but we can only do so much without an account and the ability to actually run the lenses. You can call the lab direct if you like. www.Laramyk.com John
ahhhh........yeah i dont like paying extra for thinner lenses, this helped explain a lot. i notice in my own glasses, the thinnest point in the lens, isn't the middle of the frame, but closer towards my nose. that must be the decentration you're talking about. so basically the frame that i chose, the pd is higher than my own, right?
HI, I am thinking to get square glasses size 52 with 1.74 mm thickness. The problem is my power is L -10.25/C-2.50 & R -6.75/C-2.50. What will be your suggestion?
LOL - OK now I get it! These videos are not for consumers. They are for the people (opticians) that work at those "optical offices" where consumers go to get their glasses. John
Most companies and a lot of insurance companies who pay for prescription eyeglasses require lenses to be polycarbonate. Once got shot in the face with a stray 22LR, polycarbonate lense saved my eye, that's good enough for me.
Ken, Yes, giant aviator styles are really popular with the younger gals right now. Sadly, there really is nothing you can do about higher powers in giant frames. One of the responsibilities that comes with being a professional optician is having to say, "NO" and provide a reason why.
I have high prescription and now im using ultra lens 1.6 i wish i have known this sooner. just got my glasses and i hope doctors would have this knowledge and share this to their patients so they can choose better frames and have the ultimate comfort possible.
This is the single most helpful video for frame choice I've seen, and I've seen a fair share. From someone who has to wear (high prescription) glasses and never knew what to look out for when picking new glasses: Thank you!
Why do heavy scrips want 75mm Oakley's?
Gosh I wish I could be your patient. I've been wearing super thick glasses since 1st grade and I'm very sensitive about it.
This, as a consumer, helps me work with the optometrist to choose my frames and lenses .
Thanks.
This has been extremely helpful. I've worn glasses since 1st grade and am now 25 and can't believe all the stuff I never knew about glasses. I won't impose on Optometrists when I get a new pair but will be more thoughtful of frames I choose.
As a patient who's had high prescription glasses since preschool (almost -11 already at age 25), it is NOT simply fashion that causes stubborn patients like myself to insist on the largest frame possible. Think about how different sizes of frames could significantly impact the overall quality of life for some one with such a strong prescription. With small lenses, I can only see what's centered right in front of my face, which means having to fully turn my head to see anything, and the contrast between my corrected vision against my nearly-blind peripheral vision is extremely disorienting. Yes, big lenses with big prescription do cause fish-eye-lense effect, but not only is that far less disorienting then the tunnel vision caused by small frames, but the fish-eye distortion usually only ever lasts for a few days to maybe almost a week at most, before my brain adjusts and compensates for it. After that, any warped visual affects from the lenses becomes invisible to my perception until the next new pair of glasses I get
Thanks for posting. I'm certainly not about to argue with you. Obviously it is working well for you. I've said it a 1000 times, if something works well for you, keep doing it. Peace. John
Hello Laramy, interesting theme How Frame Selection Affects Lens Thickness - Size AND Shape Matter, thank you...
Most helpful video ever! Thanks
Consumers should have different size models of the same glasses style. Instead of having hundreds of fashion models, a competing optical shop could have only a few basic models, then different colors added to those, then different several PD sizes, and several bridge sizes. So, one "model" frame might have several colors, PD's and bridges, meaning 27 variations. And if a shop had several models, round, oval and rectangular, then that would be 71 different eyeglasses. It could be marketed to those with high myopia. Instead, EVERY optical shop has the same selection of LARGE FRAMES to pick from. None have the round 38mm frames that I can get from China, for instance.
I suppose the lack of consumer choice does pressure them to purchase expensive high index lenses for moderate myopia. So perhaps the optical shop industry considers offering Real Choice in custom fit eyeglasses (like a shoe shop) would atrophy the industry. The moderate myopia market would probably start picking inexpensive polycarbonate lens. And, fashion would develop towards smaller custom fit frames rather than huge eyeglasses, that I believe the future generation will laugh at. Because in reality, the styles offered by optical shops are ridiculously impractical. It's sort of like forcing everyone, men, women, children, into high heal shoes for the sake of industry profit.
So I say until our optical shops get their acts together and start offering consumers the choice they want, then shop China instead
This is glorious, I been tryin to find out about "why do varifocals have peripheral distortion?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Rayemiron Uncommunicative Release - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one off product for discovering how to improve your eyesight naturally minus the headache. Ive heard some awesome things about it and my co-worker got cool results with it.
Good video. Easy to understand.
When my eye is centered in the lens, the total frame width is too narrow, causing pressure on the side of the head and headaches. What to do?
In all the years I have been to opticians like Specsavers, Boots, Vision Express etc, I never heard one of them mention the width of the frames is important to get the best PD. Once you pick your frames from the display, that's you done. There is no options in various sizes in the style of frames you choose to get the best fit. What you end up with is frames that have been tried on by hundreds, maybe thousands of customers before you.
I have asked for new frames in the past, as opposed to having to use the ones from the display, but always end up with the frames I took from the display as evidenced by wear on the temples. The up side to this is, if you are given worn frames and you are not happy with your glasses overall, that alone is grounds for a full refund, you can even negotiate a hefty discount.
❤very useful information
awesome job
Is there a way i can get the poem? I absolutely love it!
I can assure you that no one else has ever asked for a copy of one of my poems. I'm afraid that one was so long ago now that I'd never find the hard copy. Glad you liked it! John
keep more coming . am done with all your videos as of now and they are so intresting. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I have a grade of
-5.75 for both eyes
Right CYL : -1.50
LEFT CYL - 1.75
Right axis : 4
Left axis: 173
Ipd right :32
Ipd left :31
VA: 20
Can I use metal frames by using 1.67 high index lenses? Or should I get the plastic and round type? What is ur suggestion
If your going for progressive lenses, definitely get the smaller frames, high index lenses usually thiner and lighter. Do not get frames that is bigger and deeper. You can hide the thickness of your lenses if you go for plastic frames. Theres some metal frames that is ok also to use even if you have a higher prescription. And also don't get the partly rimless frame, because you have high prescription, its heavier.
Can you suggest me thinnest lens if i have myopic -6.25? What kind of frame should i go for? Thx in advance ..
Radin, Find a good optician! The thinnest lens currently available is a high-index 1.74. A high-index 1.67 may work quite well also. Frame choice is easy = the smallest thing that fits properly! Small, oval, simple. Look around the video page I cover frame size and thickness too. And -6.25 is high but not all that unusual. And of course - contact lenses! John
Laramy-K Optical thank you so much for the suggestion ☺️
Laramy-K Optical i have more question regarding the lenses.. how to reduce the lens reflection..? My lens got very high reflection that everyone could notice i have high prescription..
If possible plastic frame. If not no edge polish. Ask for center bevel on finished lens instead of hide-a-bevel. Get the best AR coating you can get. 1.74 lenses always come with AR. Keep the frame size as small as you can and that is about everything that can be done. Well, except for wearing contact lenses of course!
Hi thanks a lot for this video. I got -9.50 for both eyes and will get a new pair of glasses. I will take notes on small, simple, oval frames. My question: which one will look better for my eye power, thick plastic frames or thin ones?
As a rule a plastic frame does a much better job of masking some of the edge thickness with power like -9.50. Even a "thin" plastic frame will be a little thicker than an ordinary metal one. I'd lean towards plastic. Plastic can also be more comfortable over time because of the way it sits on your nose. -9.50 is going to have some weight to it and nosepads on metal frames can cause issues. Not to say you couldn't find a great pair of metal frames if that is what you want most! John
@@LaramyKOptical thanks a lot for your quick response, youve been really helpful! All the best
@@abrinanurm Don't miss this one too: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
your thumbnails are A+ btw
Always a struggle finding a frame small enough for my high Rx. Fashion frames tend to be too large. Any suggestions on sourcing small frames?
Sadly you just need to shop around as much as possible. Charmant is a company that comes to mind. All the big names have online searches available to the optician. Where they can plug in all the measurements. There is no reason they can't find one for you - that is their job.
In my opinion there is enhanced way to send data to lab. Dot the lenses as you suggest, then re-mount them into the frame. Photograph or (preferably) scan the frame with a mm ruler in the photo. Include A, B, and DBL measurements so lab can check scale. If you use camera, use the longest focal length possible and move camera back (zoom in, not electronically!) and photograph in a stand that keeps camera square to frame. (This reduces perspective distortion.)
Do frame tracers have a universal file format for the trace? (and can this file be extracted from the tracer?) If so, send the lab the file, along with patient IPD's AND FITTING HEIGHT. If they don't, petition the industry to establish a standard format!
Every optical practice should have a dedicated camera setup for photographing patient's faces and frames. Side benefit is the ability for patient to "virtual try-on" for frames and for viewing by others who could not be present during the selection. This should be as common as a mirror, lensometer or IPD instrument in the practice.
Is a 53mm frame size too large for a lens of -5 prescription??please help
For all the reasons mentioned in the video I can't really answer that question. A 53 for an ordinary size male sounds about right. Just follow RULE #1 - wear the smallest frame possible that still fits correctly. -5 is getting up there but not too bad.
You sir make technical stuff less boring. Great videos.
Thanks ! Less boring is the goal! John
SIR I wear -4.50 in right eye and -5.50 in left eye.plz suggest me wether I should choose hi index lense in a small frame or normal plastic lense in a small frame.I am in great trouble and wasted a lot of money after lenses but don't feel comfortable yet
If you came to me I'd lean towards a 1.60 nothing higher. Depending on how small the frame and the shape you might do just fine with basic plastic or CR-39. Those powers are stock so a good optician could show you exactly how thick the edge may be when mounted. Stay with a small frame that fits. Get a great AR coating. Go to someone you trust, not online. John
Thanks for your videos Sir. Please tell us where you put the optical center along the B position. Is it in B/2 or you take the pupil height. Thanks for your answer.
I have -3. 25 sph and -2. 50 cyl axis 5 in right eye
And -3. 25 sph and -1. 50 cyl axis 175
In left eye
What should I do
What kind lenses should I wear
Should I wear round glasses
Should I wear small frame size
Several other videos that cover all your questions. ua-cam.com/channels/dfKXBLjBDbX2X2g0XuAbmw.htmlvideos
I will watch the videos but can you give suggestion considering the situation
What you don't mention is that some customers are so adamant about wanting the huge frames that are the trend now.
It's difficult to explain function over fashion to a trendy consumer with a high script and a narrow PD.
How do you counter that?
But I do mention that... fashion be damned. If your customer is really high power they know that. Use it your advantage. "Look, you know you have a really high prescription, if you go with that frame you are going to be really, really unhappy." Take charge! Be willing to say, no. -7.50 - 100 X 89 in an aviator with a 73 A, no, just say no.
How about +Plus HIGH power Rx's. I think with Minus powers we have more alternatives.
You talk about selecting frames that are close or equal to your eye PD. How do you measure or calculate frame PD? If my Bridge should be 18mm, and my PD is 29.5/30.5, what width of frame lens should I get? If a lens in a particular frame is 52mm wide with a 18mm bridge, does this frame have a frame PD of 52/2 + 18/2 = 26 + 9 = 35/35 mono PD or 70 Bino PD? Since a frame has each lens the same size and if it, let's say, has a 18mm bridge, then the width of the lens (for a frame with a 18mm bridge) would need to be approx (30 - 18/2) x 2 = 42mm this is b/c the left or right PD includes half the bridge and half the lens. To get the lens, I would double the value (hence the ' X 2 '). I also have a temple width of about 137mm (based on the width of frames that fit me bet as measured between the paddles when opened). So the fram will need to have 137 - 18 - (2 x 42) = 35mm /2 (each side extension beyond the frame) = 17.5 mm extension off each lens frame to connect the paddles. Do they even make such a frame? These things will lok like a pair of Ben Franklins!! Help!!
Whoa! Frame PD is A + DBL. To find those measurements watch this: ua-cam.com/video/N7XqtoMll8A/v-deo.html
Remember that a true rimless/drill mount/3 piece can be made in ANY shape and in ANY size.
@@LaramyKOptical thank you. That helps a lot!! So back to my example. So the glasses have listed on them 52 -16-140. From these numbers the FPD is 52+16 = 68 and will be a little big for me. So the 16 is the DBL and is that the width of the bridge? I was under the impression that was used to see if the glasses fit one’s nose and is the space between the pads but, if I understand, that is not the pad width but is the closest distance between the lens. So let’s pretend I have a PD =60, I am going to need either a rather tiny DBL, rather small width lens or both? Correct? What do I do if I have a rather fat head ( head width at the temples =135mm)? Will the paddles need to be bent to accommodate or how will the extra Fran width be done? Also, does the width of ones eye come into play when selecting a lens width? I do not want to feel like I have blinders on or am always peering down a binary microscope. You have been super helpful and have been watching a ton of your videos learning so much. Some of what I have learn I feel should have been passed on by someone at the optician. I think I get more SWAT - Sell What’s Available Today. More salesman and less doctor
@@frank3722 I think you have missed the single most important word I use in all the videos on frame fit which is, "close." As close as possible while still fitting properly. I think you are overthinking this just a tiny little bit. My own PD is actually 58 (very narrow) and I have a fairly wide head and quite a reach from frame front to behind the ear so yes getting the perfect fit is a little tricky but I have found 40, 50, 60 odd pairs over the years that worked just fine and looked absolutely amazing! I'm currently in a bunch of fairly round in both plastic and metal. I think your last statement sums it up well - you just need to hunt around and find a good (real) optician. Maybe search for or ask around for an independent optician owned place. So - you are aiming for as close as you can get to frame PD - human PD match but that rarely if ever happens. I can't recall if you were the person I already mention this to - remember the higher end fully rimless or drill or 3-piece mounts can be customized to no end. YOU choose the lens size, YOU choose the bridge size, YOU choose the temple length. Look at Silhouette and they may also help you find a good optician. Look for the place that does A LOT OF THEM and they are sure to nail it!
ua-cam.com/video/nTuYbjvNw_Q/v-deo.html
I thought I had heard that Frame PD should be between 1mm to 3mm wider on each side. Was what I thought I heard likely supposed to be the maximum one should have a frame centerpoint outside the pupil centerpoint, opposite the nasal side? I'm a consumer with a -10 eyeglasses prescription and want to shop for a frame that can support the thinnest lens possible, and I am researching so that I can be a knowledgeable consumer and not get stuck with thicker lens than I have to.
Also, my prescription calls for spherical lens. I have heard of double aspheric lens used for High Myopia that feature a cosmetic outer edge that stays thinner on the outside, while maintaining good vision towards the center of the lens. I might have misunderstood. Is it possible to request that from typical optical shops, or is that very specialized, and is that not suitable to do if one has a prescription that says "spherical" if one is okay compromising some of the peripheral vision correction?
I wear contacts that are -9.0 (gas permeable) and I wear them 16 hours a day. I only want these eyeglasses for special days that I can't wear contacts, and after I take them out late at night.
GREAT VIDEO!!
Thank you for posting it, and allowing everyone on UA-cam access to this GREAT information :-)
Mark, Not sure where you found that but it wouldn't be realistic for 90% of the population. Just follow the rules in the video and go for the smallest possible frame (eyewire opening) that fits well. John See also: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
I have a right eye p.d. of 30, and a left eye p.d. of 28.
You stated that the frame p.d. should match as closely as possible to the patient p.d..
Since my right eye p.d. is different than my left eye p.d., would I divide my frame p.d. by 2, and then would I match each eye p.d. with whatever the "frame p.d. divided by 2" would be?
This would be for purchasing single vision distance prescription eyeglasses.
I hope my question makes sense.
Yes just use 58.
@@LaramyKOptical
I am having a hard time finding round or oval shaped eyeglass frames online that match the bridge width (15-18) that I am looking for. Also, most of the frames have a lens height of 40 or more, which is way too big for my face.
My right eye is -9.00 sphere with -0.75 cylinder, and my left eye is -8.25 sphere with -1.50 cylinder. I have a right eye P.D. of 30, and I have a left eye P.D. of 28. The bridge of my nose is above the level of my eyes.
It's been very difficult for me to find round or oval shaped frames online that match what I am looking for.
Does the frame HAVE TO be a round shaped or oval shaped frame for me to have the best vision as possible (based on my prescription)?
@@rainbow20112011 Round - oval is the best possible SHAPE for powers as high as yours are. It doesn't have to do with best vision but about edge thickness. A "B" of 40 does sound quite large. You might not like my actual answer which is, "Don't shop online with powers like yours!" (I have nothing against online shopping for lower single vision glasses.)
@@LaramyKOptical
Just so am I understanding what you are saying...It has nothing to do with vison, but just how heavy the glasses are on my face?
@@rainbow20112011 Edge thickness.
I was using a metal frame specs and now i recently got new one of plastic frame ... The thickness of one wuth plastic frame is greater than the metal one ...Is it normal ?
If both frames are the same size and shape they will have the same lens thickness regardless of what material it is made out of
Any operation thr to reget power of eyes?
What does "PD" stand for?
I'm thinking pupil distance?
Correct or pupillary distance if you want to get fancy. The proper tools actually measure the visual axis of the eye which may or may not be the same as pupil center. Important when powers are high or measuring for a progressive.
Sir can you suggest me thin lens i can wear if i am having power of -3.25 & -3.00 in my right & left eye respectively
priyanshu,
-3.25 and -3.00 are not very high powers. If you came into our center I'd probably cut you polycarbonate 1.586 or Trivex 1.53. Both polycarbonate and Trivex are sold under all different names.
Just in case: If you meant -3.00 -3.25 X ________ then I would probably go with high-index 1.60.
John
Laramy-K Optical
Thanks sir for your important reply.
Thanks sir for given me knowledge
hi... 2 prescriptions, same index but one has thicker lenses (because of bad frame choice). does it mean less clarity? and if so then why? because that farther the light need to go inside the lens the more degraded is going to be the vision?
Assuming that lens OC placement is correct. In minus powers no. In plus powers yes. There is just so much to it all... no easy yes - no answers here.
This I believe could be my problem with the progressives that I had made twice at sams club vision center. But now going for my third remake or just get a refund. Or go somewhere else. I did get the high index for my prescription. It was supposed to have been the best.
My glasses I feel are too large for progressives. Even though they are just 53-15-135 and vertical is 36 I feel my pd is not placed correctly on the lenses. When I stand facing front with different objects in my field of vision, I cannot get a clear focus as I move my eyes at different levels. And find as the optician called it the sweet spot. Nothing sweet if you cant see clearly or focus. Ugh.
I stopped by walmart and spoke with an optician I know thats been there for 12 years. She was so kind when I told her my problem. She suggested I go smaller lense with adjustable nose piece. I think shes onto my problem and has some knowledge and good experience. Is there anything I can do. I cant even read clearly with my progressives without tilting my head up and looking so far down like almost closing my eyes from upclose to 17 inches away. Its very straining. My prescription is not bad. Its only +0.50 -0.50. Axis 085. Near add +2.25 for both eyes.
How can I overcome these obstacles. At first i thought it was me. But I still cant see upclose without raising my glasses. Im frustrated. Thank you for these free videos.
But since im a painter I need upclose, midrange and distance.
Hopefully I will find the solution.
+0.50 (+) -0.50 = 0.00 You don't really have a "prescription" of any kind. You should have perfect vision in at least one if not two of the zones you need most (probably distance) so I'd look for a lens and frame that lets you access what you need by looking over or under the rest? Heck I'd bet a good single-vision pair set up for your intermediate would do the trick. Heck try some drug store readers at +1.00 or +1.25 and see how that goes for painting. $14.99 sure beats $449. John
@@LaramyKOptical ive been using drug store readers for 15 years. I started out .50 then .75, 1.00 on up to now at 2.00 plus otc readers. Lol. I realize my prescription is low but up close like a few inches up to about 10 feet. And still cant see well and very blurry up 16 inches away. Even though its not bad I still need to see.
I may go to the midrange workspace progressives I can get online for less than a hundred. And also some upclose detail readers. I have prescription for both. Im highly sensitive and yes probably difficult to fit knowing I work up from a few inches to paint details. Then viewing for editing painting on the easel by standing about 10 to 12 feet back. I also have very small cataract beginning in both eyes and another problem which preceeds the development of glaucoma but dr said it may never develop. Something about concave shape I think. I know these are different issue and could very possibly be affecting what im going through since im highly sensitive. My. Dad had macular degeration and went blind. Thank you very much for all your help.
However if I get this correct, with a + lens a larger eye-wire gets a thinner lens, at the edge anyways, no?
No. A plus lens is thinner at the edge than at the center. But as power increases so does thickness across the entire lens including the edge. It may appear that way in low powers but as soon as you hit 3 and above even a plus lens edge thickness grows quite rapidly.
I prefer to wear contact lenses I’m a -10.50 and a -11 I think with toric lenses...but eye infections and you occasionally run out earlier than expected. I’m always willing to pay more for the contacts needed for my high power. I have an eye appointment next week. I am never satisfied or able to see well enough out of glasses. I basically get a new pair when I can for fall back when my eyes are tired or infections. It would SO nice to get a pair of glasses I can actually see out of . I didn’t listen to the lady last year and got rectangle lenses which made a bad cold bottle affect. Sadly mine will probably always do that. I think I’m glasses I’m near -13 . Very nearsighted. Stigmatism in one eye as well. I’m searching the internet for the best frames for a high prescription like mine. I’m not able to go to Costco and Walmart anymore I have to go to a private company who can manage my high prescription. The problem is with such heavy lenses and most frames don’t have the nose pieces anymore they constantly slide and I can’t see out of them near as good as contacts. Any advice or brand of frames or size I should get? Thank you!
Frame advice, no. Just what you see in the video(s). I would hope that going to an independent shop would be a good thing. Just keep shopping until you find a great optician. If they are guiding you to the simplest shapes and smallest sizes and are talking about free-form or digital lenses and a good AR you probably have a winner. Reading between the lines it sounds like you already know that seeing "better" is probably about as good as it is going to get. There are issues going from contacts to glasses that nothing can overcome. See also: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
Great videos keep them coming
Thanks Anthony. We will!
Sir, I have +5.00 and +7.50, just got a 1.74 index glasses, but it's way thicker than my old 1.64 index one (+5.00 and +5.50). I don't understand why. Is it possible to shift the lenses to the edge when cutting it to fit the frame to get thinnest part?
Maybe a typo but that is a 2.00 diopter increase in power so I would expect it to be thicker. I'm not really sure I can add anything to what I cover in the video and in this one: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
Very good video sir.
I watched many videos of you.
Sir r u an Optometrist ?You have very good knowledge and your explanation is very good.
Posts some videos about progressive lenses too.
Thank you Osaf! We will certainly get to progressives. So many topics to cover! ;)
I'm really interested in a Ted Baker B747 frame ... but.. I am -8.50 in my left eye and -8.00 in the right.. and that is not a up to date script. It has been 2 years since I have been to the dr. Would that even be an option for me?
Brittany, I have no idea what at Ted Baker B747 looks like or what sizes it comes in or what size you might need! Check out the video we just did a few months ago: Size & Shape Matter But You Matter More. The answer for high power people never changes: Always ggo with the smallest frame possible. John
We are almost literally the same prescription.
Have you gotten your glasses? All I know is the smaller the less thick the lenses will be but I really don't want small lenses :(
Small round frames are the best for glasses with high prescription lenses late R +7.5 & L +9... yikes, lol
Mines -7.5 on left eye still not perfect vision and right eye is ignored by Brian because it's 90% blurred lol. I accidentally bought square frame and regret because it makes my eyes smaller and face little bigger 😂
-12.75 and -9.50 for me, -/+ 7.00 would be a dream to have, you would have SO many more frame options.
Nice video sir....can you explain abt effective diameter for plus and minus lens
Viji, Lens size is covered in the video about MBS or minimum blank size. ED or effective diameter is a frame measurement not a lens measurement. MBS and ED go together. John
like always ,awesome 🌸
Thanks again, Yasa!
great job!
Thanks Angie!
That was a brilliant video and very educational. I do have a question I would like to ask you about. I have a prescription of around -5, and I want to choose a thin lens. If I were to opt in for a 1,74 index lens, what frame should I go for? I've tried multiple frames and most of them are 51-53 which may turn out too be too thick around the edges considering its size and anything below 50 is way too small and weird for my face shape and form. I have been to all optics in my city and they are really not helpfull at all. Also I would like to mention that some places that sell 1,74 index lenses is alot more cheaper than other optics, why is that? they tell me that the material is different and all that but what material is the thinnest? I really don't care about the weight.
Thank you.
Also see: ua-cam.com/video/AZYjIxuyUBI/v-deo.html
A 1.74 is a 1.74 and 1.74 IS A MATERIAL. You can't say there is a price difference because of the type of material. Check out the other videos --- wear as small as you can, wear as round as you can, get a high index material 1.6X to 1.74 and that is about all you can do. If you stumble on a great optician you could insist on surfaced lenses from the lab match to your frame but that might be dreaming. John
I've also had a prescription of -5 and I'm about to pic frames of 53mm...how thick will it be at the edges in Cm???
Great video
Good morning,
Liking the content on this channel and you seem passionate and knowledgeable about what you do. Anyway if I'm allowed I want to expose my concerns: I have right now +2.75 rx 1.60 ri glasses, but from the last visit it resulted to be a weak rx, so I have now to put +3.50 glasses. I have fairly big round glasses, that with +2.75 prescription resulted in a somehow good way that I tend to accept and like. My concern is that with the lens "upgrade" the result will be bad and the bobble effect on my eyes will be more than it already is and will be too much for me to deal with. What should I do? Keep the frame and go with super high index lenses, change frame or what? Are farsightedness lenses thicker than myopia lenses? Why? Thank you. Appreciate your work
Short answer: Get out of those, "fairly big round glasses" and go with some smaller or mid-sized round glasses instead. Stick with a 1.60 to 1.67. Make sure the optician does careful measurements and you should be good to go. Round is not a great choice for plus but if you like the look then you stick with it, just go smaller. John
Thank you for the prompt reply. Why isn't round a good choice for plus? (Anyway I'm not stuck with round) I thought that round is better for the diameter, and smaller size is better. I have a medium face and my glasses right now are 49 for the lens measure. Before this pair I had a pair of moscot lemtosh, size 44, but I don't like how they look on my face cause they're too small and the frame is too bulky@@LaramyKOptical
@@giordanopioli1922 Just an old-school take on things. Plus lenses magnify and since the iris is round a round frame tends to add a little to the "bug-eye" look of plus lenses. Round shape, round lens, round iris, slight "rounded fish eye" image of a plus lens... Not a rule or even necessarily a big deal just an old rule-of-thumb. And, yep, smaller is always better. As small as you can go and still have a great fit! John
@@LaramyKOptical thank you! Don't intend to bother you, but I have another last question/curiosity: are plus lenses generally thicker than minus lenses for miopia? Is it just my impression or at a equal level of prescription, let's say +3.00 and -3.00, minus lenses are generally thinner opposite to plus lenses that are thicker? Is it just me or is it a thing?
@@giordanopioli1922 Yep! Plus lenses tend to be thicker. Much harder to control thickness in plus than it is in minus. Plus are thick in the middle, minus at the edge, but, that gets complicated real quick when you start with powers and size and index and decentration, center thickness requirements and, and, and...
Thanks for these videos. Am learning alot about what I need for my vision aids - frames and lenses (I'm a wearer, not optician). A few follow up questions about proper pupil position.
My situation -- Am moving into my 2nd pair of progressives at age 50. Had current pair for a long time - 7 years. My prescription has changed somewhat. Distance from -6 to -5.5. Add power from +1.5 to +1.75
Question #1: I read recently that with progressive lens, it's recommended for your pupil to be 1/3 from the top of the lens. This is different than your recommendation of be centered vertically and horizontally this video. Can you please comment on this difference of advice?
Question #2: Relates to another video about corridor length. Think you mentioned a lens designer said 18 mm is an ideal corridor length. This might not be enough data but, my situation:
- Current highbrow type of frame with oval-ish lens height = 36 mm, width = 47mm, bridge = 20mm
- Am interested in an oval frame with lens height = 41mm, width = 47mm, bridge = 22mm
Do you think the lens corridor is a big change between these frames? After this watching this video I noticed my pupils are off-center (narrow) a touch on the new frames. Any guidelines on when the off-centeredness is a large concern...functionally, not concerned about edge thickness.
(FYI -- from your Consumer Buying Guide, I became aware of cheek touch at the bottom of the new frames...so, likely to look for different frames with slightly less height)
Thanks, in advance, for your help here.
Every single one of your questions comes down to the same answer: I can't really say without seeing the frames on you. They may be perfect but depending on the fit they may be quite horrible for progressive use. I'd do your best to find a competent independent optician.
All you need "above" the distance portion of the progressive lens is enough that nothing is lost. That will vary a little by lens design but it is extremely rare to have any above the center line issues. I don't recall saying that your eye should be near the center vertically for a progressive?
Corridor length has little to do with frame size. Just make sure that when they mark up or dot up or take the picture that they have a fitting height of about 18. Then hopefully they will also choose a lens design with an 18 corridor length. Then all will be well. If it is less than 17 I'd look for another frame. If it is over 18 it should be just fine if they choose a lens with a 18 corridor. Heck the height could be 34 but you still use a 18.
You are going down a little in power in distance and only up a little in add so that is working in your favor.
@@LaramyKOptical Thanks for your comments and advice here. Much appreciated.
FYI - you didn't say anywhere...in the videos I've watched or the Consumer's Buying Guide that eyes should be centered vertically and horizontally for progressive lens.
In the Consumer Guide, there are slides that suggest centered pupils is recommended for lens. My interpretation - is the case for single-vision. I learned the vertical positioning - recommended 1/3 from the top of the lens -- from an article...can't recall the website.
Thanks again for your advice. Your videos have given me the idea to become an optician for a career change!
I've switched to round glasses because my rectangular ones gave poorer vision when gazing "toward the nose". I'm only a -2.5 Myopic. Outward gazing does not seem to diminish vision much (except that the other eye is of course gazing inwards toward the nose, if kept open)
I went from this frame : i1.go-optic.com/w450,h450/Jai%20Kudo_575_M08.jpg
To a variety of round frames which were better for this inner gaze distortion.
Wondering what a person sensitive to inner gaze distortion should look for. I've *NOT* tried any higher end options, such digital lenses, or Zeiss Indivisual stuff ($$). Just CR-39 and low/mid/high-index from a variety of places.
Or should I give up on non-round lenses completely?
Note: if this comment section is inappropriate for customer questions please link me to an optician in Canada that has a vague familiarity with this problem.
zeldamaniac,
It sounds like you are doing a pretty great job self-diagnosing all on your own!
You mention the Zeiss Individual which (at least here in the US) is a progressive design. Assuming you are wearing a progressive the sensation you describe is called "swim."
Beyond what you are doing I'm afraid your only other option is going with a higher-end digital or free-form lens design. All progressives have what we called peripheral unwanted astigmatism and all you can do is reduce it but never eliminate it.
You may find a lower cost alternative to a big-name brand if you ask around for a store that has IOT free-form lens designs sold under their own house brand.
Don't tell anyone but I actually wear an old fashioned lined bifocal since I prefer them to the progressive lens designs. No distortion, inexpensive and easy to use too.
;-)
John
Sir u can suggest me thin lens I can wear if I m having power of
-23.25/-0.75×40
AR>
-24.75/-0.75×15
I'll check with Janet at the lab and get back to you. John
Ok thanks
The lab says, "Most likely a 1.67 possibly with a minus-front or a bi-convex grind depending on all the other parameters." Of course you would want to follow all the guidelines in the video! Sorry but you will never have a "thin" lens with power like that but you can do some things to get the thinnest possible. We would be happy to work with an optician to design a lens but we can only do so much without an account and the ability to actually run the lenses. You can call the lab direct if you like. www.Laramyk.com John
ahhhh........yeah i dont like paying extra for thinner lenses, this helped explain a lot.
i notice in my own glasses, the thinnest point in the lens, isn't the middle of the frame, but closer towards my nose. that must be the decentration you're talking about. so basically the frame that i chose, the pd is higher than my own, right?
Winona Daphne no u r wrong
awesome
Thanks!
HI, I am thinking to get square glasses size 52 with 1.74 mm thickness. The problem is my power is L -10.25/C-2.50 & R -6.75/C-2.50. What will be your suggestion?
Wow that would difficult for the average joe.
Please explain? John
Figuring all of that out, most people just go to an optical office and just put whatever they like.
LOL - OK now I get it! These videos are not for consumers. They are for the people (opticians) that work at those "optical offices" where consumers go to get their glasses. John
Most companies and a lot of insurance companies who pay for prescription eyeglasses require lenses to be polycarbonate. Once got shot in the face with a stray 22LR, polycarbonate lense saved my eye, that's good enough for me.
Hmmm.... ua-cam.com/video/WO-hoibxBOY/v-deo.html
you legend
Thanks!
Trivex
damn but those old school small frames look so ugly
For now many girls love to wear big round glasses. How can we do if the patient with serious myopia (over-6.00DS)?
Ken, Yes, giant aviator styles are really popular with the younger gals right now. Sadly, there really is nothing you can do about higher powers in giant frames. One of the responsibilities that comes with being a professional optician is having to say, "NO" and provide a reason why.
thank you so much.