@@victoryfirst2878 , depending on your exact model and year of Controller you may need to add some washers or tube to space and sleeve the pivot, but the bearings should fit nicely in the plastic trigger part 👍🏻
@@CleaveTech I used to build controllers for people. Rarely ever had the trigger pivot hole as tight as I would have liked. One thing I always told everybody, DO NOT OIl the ball bearings! Those bearings should not need oiling. If you are leaving your controller outside next to a gravel road then, yes. But do yourself a favor and take them out and clean them.Then oil them if you want. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OIL ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BEARINGS! We found that oil had a tendency to make the material in the trigger to stretch! I replaced the original spring with a piece of a longer spring that had smaller coils, only slightly larger diameter wire and longer length. With the contact plates we use now, you can get away with less spring tension. For the ceramic and/or wire wound resistor, I would stay with the stock spring. Ken
After getting back into slot cars and having a bunch of Parma Turbo's with pink resistors that failed due to corrosion, I'm curious if you'd mind posting a series about converting to electronic controllers, possibly building from scratch a controller like you are showing. I happen to have a few electronic controllers, but 4 or 5 resistor controllers that are bad and I like the idea of being able to build a few DIY, so I can invite more friends to play at the track. If I could still buy orange Parma resistors, I would just do that, as they managed to last from the 80's until today, but all the pink resistors are broken and not easy to find. Your tuning tips in this video were good and I will use one of the controllers I have as a test to see how it works for me. Good work! Thanks!
Thank you for watching. I will be releasing some videos about some of the things you can do with electronic controllers but if you are building one in the first place, there is some really good information where about building electronic controllers: www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/index.htm
Hi there !! - Is it transistor output powered or fully analog ?? - The main problem with transistored ones is the insulation btw the wiper arm and that cooper base wich makes the brake act. Insulation must be flawless .
Hello there !! - i figure it it was output trans. But i didnt know you guys use PNP. very cool. is it for neg. pol Tracks ?? - it use to be NPN for pos. polarity, however there are ways to also use PNP ones...Chers Rio / Brazil
@@ACCOUNTANTB , A lot of modern controller circuits use NPN or FETs now. Tracks in the UK and ISRA switch the positive. The negative is permanently connected to ensure the electronic braking always works.
What size bearings are used in this controller CleaveTech ??? Nice informative video too.
Thank you. The bearings are 0.250" OD x 0.125" ID x 0.110" W
@@CleaveTech Now I know what to buy CleaveTech. You made it easy peasy, thanks. .
@@victoryfirst2878 , depending on your exact model and year of Controller you may need to add some washers or tube to space and sleeve the pivot, but the bearings should fit nicely in the plastic trigger part 👍🏻
@@CleaveTech Thanks Sir. Now I know the whole story for bearings for controllers.
@@CleaveTech I used to build controllers for people. Rarely ever had the trigger pivot hole as tight as I would have liked. One thing I always told everybody, DO NOT OIl the ball bearings! Those bearings should not need oiling. If you are leaving your controller outside next to a gravel road then, yes. But do yourself a favor and take them out and clean them.Then oil them if you want. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OIL ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BEARINGS! We found that oil had a tendency to make the material in the trigger to stretch! I replaced the original spring with a piece of a longer spring that had smaller coils, only slightly larger diameter wire and longer length. With the contact plates we use now, you can get away with less spring tension. For the ceramic and/or wire wound resistor, I would stay with the stock spring.
Ken
Thanks again for your detailed explanations!!! Congratulations !!!
Ive used braid and screwed it in place on the brass brake tab. It helps cushion the impact and stops the bouncing to a large degree.
That is a good idea. Thank you for sharing 👍🏻
After getting back into slot cars and having a bunch of Parma Turbo's with pink resistors that failed due to corrosion, I'm curious if you'd mind posting a series about converting to electronic controllers, possibly building from scratch a controller like you are showing.
I happen to have a few electronic controllers, but 4 or 5 resistor controllers that are bad and I like the idea of being able to build a few DIY, so I can invite more friends to play at the track. If I could still buy orange Parma resistors, I would just do that, as they managed to last from the 80's until today, but all the pink resistors are broken and not easy to find.
Your tuning tips in this video were good and I will use one of the controllers I have as a test to see how it works for me. Good work!
Thanks!
Thank you for watching. I will be releasing some videos about some of the things you can do with electronic controllers but if you are building one in the first place, there is some really good information where about building electronic controllers:
www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/index.htm
Hi there !! - Is it transistor output powered or fully analog ?? - The main problem with transistored ones is the insulation btw the wiper arm and that cooper base wich makes the brake act. Insulation must be flawless .
This controller is transistorised. A single PNP transistor. You can see the basic circuit here:
www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/index.htm
Hello there !! - i figure it it was output trans. But i didnt know you guys use PNP. very cool. is it for neg. pol Tracks ?? - it use to be NPN for pos. polarity, however there are ways to also use PNP ones...Chers Rio / Brazil
@@ACCOUNTANTB , A lot of modern controller circuits use NPN or FETs now.
Tracks in the UK and ISRA switch the positive. The negative is permanently connected to ensure the electronic braking always works.
Oh I always give mine a tug James
👍