What do you think of the 700 series Upgrades? Does it make it that much better of a commuter? go.ride1up.com/SH2d If you do decide you want to give this new model a try, why no do so after clicking our link? It is a free and easy way to support us here at Ebike Escape! Thank you all so much for the continued support, you are all awesome!
Los Angeles is offering a $1,750 e-bike rebate for low income individuals. This bike seems like the perfect way to utilize that rebate. Thanks for your review!
It will be the new model. You can verify this by checking the description on the webpage. It lists it as a “AKM” motor. Which is the new model, as the old motor was Bafang. You can also tell quickly as the AKM motor has like arrow heads or Vs on the motor, and the bafang motor just said bafang or was blank.
I got my bike 4 months ago and its this version. So my guess is this is the only model they ship. Would make sense. You don't want people getting different versions and complaining.
Brand new rider. The 700 ST is my first ebike. These things are awesome. I haven't ridden a bicycle in 20 years, at least. But I rode bikes and had a couple mopeds, as a youngster. The biggest challenge I've encountered with this amazing thing is remembering to check my goofy goggle-eyed ear-to-ear grin while I'm riding it. ETA: Mine has a chrome plate on the front, but it says "1UP," as opposed to "R1." And it has the Bafang motor. BUT, the interface on the display is exactly the same. This one's all wattage-based, too. So, I wonder about the controller. 🤔 And, in "Class 2 mode" (ie. PAS 5 = 75%; speed limit = 20), I was able to hit 32.x mph (165 lbs) yesterday on a relatively flat and very smooth asphalt surface (a national park trail drive/ride thing). OK, maybe there was a *slight* downward grade at one or two points. lol EDIT 2: Cleanup on aisle typo.
The AKM motor is so much better than the previous garbage Bafang motor. I have the AKM motor on my LMTD v1 and the same crappy Bafang motor on our Cafe Cruiser v1. You need to set the PAS5=100% power to get 999 watts
I have a 2024 ride1up turris. it has to be one of the best ebikes made. Its so much better than the 5-6 ebikes ive tried from bicycle shops. Torque sensor bikes are really bad compared to cadence sensor bicycles
The Turris is a great bike! I think torque sensor e-bikes are great. They give you the finest control over motor output and are best for riding with other people. So are cadence sensor bikes whose PAS levels set power levels, like Ride1Up cadence sensor models do. Those that have speed presets can be dangerous when coupled with torquey motors. I’ve been thrown off such e-bikes by the bike accelerating hard from a stop or in the middle of a tight turn from under me. Luckily, I wasn’t hurt badly, just a bit of road rash. It’s not a combination I would recommend for people with slower reflexes or fragile bones, and they’re terrible for riding with other people, especially in tightly packed conditions. Each is suited for different uses. I am happy to see more models come out that use a torque sensor, but their software lets you tell the bike to use it as a torque sensor or consider it an on/off switch (cadence mode), so you get to pick which you want to use!
Torque sensors are for people who still want a "work out" while using an ebike, they are also more efficient with batteries. Cadence sensors are for people who say "F that, I got an ebike to not have to work out. PAS5 100% all the way to work".
Nice motor upgrade! Very useful climbing hills, especially for a heavier bike like the 700. A power based system is not only more controllable than a speed-based one, but safer with a torquey motor. Speed-based systems should not be used with motors with more than about 40Nm of torque. Nothing like getting over 1000W of power sent through an 85Nm-plus motor starting from a stop or in the middle of a tight turn to accelerate the bike out from under you, making you fall off.
The frame is super wobbly. The wheels are not straight and get worse. The fenders are trash and spray water in your face. 2 piston brakes isn't enough for this bike and these need to be bled every few months. The light isn't bright enough and the torque at least on the old bike is pretty weak. That being said I don't regret buying it
A step-thru frame is going to be more wobbly than a double-triangle one. That’s probably what the OP is talking about. I have a Rife1Up Rift with the step-through frame. I think it weighs about 84lbs with fenders and 20Ah pack. I also have a v1 Ride1Up LMT’d, which came only in a step-over double-triangle frame. With 14Ah pack and no fenders it weighs 51lbs. The step-through frame of the Rift definitely feels wobblier than the much lighter step-over frame of the LMT’d, to the point I always have to have at least one hand on the bars of the Rift but can ride hands-free on the LMT’d over the same roads. The 700 step-thru probably is wobblier than the step-over version, but step-thru frames offer easy mounting-dismounting and can accommodate shorter riders. They’re also safer should you slip off the pedals while riding over rough roads.
Wobbly enough it almost always suffers from the “death wobble” within seconds of letting go of the bars just gliding along a typical residential suburban road (some cracks but no potholes), mostly from frame flex, which I can feel through the bars when taking a turn at speed over roads with pavement, or riding down a tussocky grassy hillside. I’ve not ridden either of those models, but I understand mechanical engineering enough to see their step-through frames will flex more than their step-over frames, just like the same frames for the 700 would. A triangle with fixed joints is a really strong shape. Cut off one of those beams, removing two of three joints, and you need to stiffen the remaining two beams and add a significant gusset to the remaining single joint to achieve the same stiffness between the two joints representing the stem and saddle. Most don’t, so they flex more, but the flex is acceptable for most riding. The XPeak, which the 750 is modeled after, suffered the wobble even in its step-over frame when any load over 15lbs was placed on the rear rack, or even a light load on its front rack. I think this is due to the angle of its headtube, not frame flex. It can be dampened by replacing the headset bearings with a set that uses stacked discs with viscous grease between them. Lectric probably stopped including the cargo package as a promotional item with purchase of the XPeak for this reason. They released a v2 of the XPeak, which has a more slack headtube angle, which likely fixed that issue.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What do you think of the 700 series Upgrades? Does it make it that much better of a commuter?
go.ride1up.com/SH2d If you do decide you want to give this new model a try, why no do so after clicking our link? It is a free and easy way to support us here at Ebike Escape! Thank you all so much for the continued support, you are all awesome!
Los Angeles is offering a $1,750 e-bike rebate for low income individuals. This bike seems like the perfect way to utilize that rebate. Thanks for your review!
Great review!
This bike is on sale right now for 1395. I wonder if you'll get the new Model or old model at that price.🤔
It will be the new model. You can verify this by checking the description on the webpage. It lists it as a “AKM” motor. Which is the new model, as the old motor was Bafang. You can also tell quickly as the AKM motor has like arrow heads or Vs on the motor, and the bafang motor just said bafang or was blank.
I got my bike 4 months ago and its this version. So my guess is this is the only model they ship. Would make sense. You don't want people getting different versions and complaining.
Brand new rider. The 700 ST is my first ebike. These things are awesome. I haven't ridden a bicycle in 20 years, at least. But I rode bikes and had a couple mopeds, as a youngster. The biggest challenge I've encountered with this amazing thing is remembering to check my goofy goggle-eyed ear-to-ear grin while I'm riding it.
ETA: Mine has a chrome plate on the front, but it says "1UP," as opposed to "R1." And it has the Bafang motor. BUT, the interface on the display is exactly the same. This one's all wattage-based, too. So, I wonder about the controller. 🤔
And, in "Class 2 mode" (ie. PAS 5 = 75%; speed limit = 20), I was able to hit 32.x mph (165 lbs) yesterday on a relatively flat and very smooth asphalt surface (a national park trail drive/ride thing). OK, maybe there was a *slight* downward grade at one or two points. lol
EDIT 2: Cleanup on aisle typo.
They may have sent you the older version 🤔 that would be no good
Thanks for your review! Any tips on choosing between this bike and the similarly spec-ed Lectric xpress 750?
The AKM motor is so much better than the previous garbage Bafang motor. I have the AKM motor on my LMTD v1 and the same crappy Bafang motor on our Cafe Cruiser v1. You need to set the PAS5=100% power to get 999 watts
I have a 2024 ride1up turris. it has to be one of the best ebikes made. Its so much better than the 5-6 ebikes ive tried from bicycle shops. Torque sensor bikes are really bad compared to cadence sensor bicycles
The Turris is a great bike!
I think torque sensor e-bikes are great. They give you the finest control over motor output and are best for riding with other people. So are cadence sensor bikes whose PAS levels set power levels, like Ride1Up cadence sensor models do. Those that have speed presets can be dangerous when coupled with torquey motors. I’ve been thrown off such e-bikes by the bike accelerating hard from a stop or in the middle of a tight turn from under me. Luckily, I wasn’t hurt badly, just a bit of road rash. It’s not a combination I would recommend for people with slower reflexes or fragile bones, and they’re terrible for riding with other people, especially in tightly packed conditions.
Each is suited for different uses. I am happy to see more models come out that use a torque sensor, but their software lets you tell the bike to use it as a torque sensor or consider it an on/off switch (cadence mode), so you get to pick which you want to use!
@chow-chihuang4903 the Ride1up cadence sensor is super soft and smooth. Thumb throttle is too, hoping I can give more kick in settings
Torque sensors are for people who still want a "work out" while using an ebike, they are also more efficient with batteries. Cadence sensors are for people who say "F that, I got an ebike to not have to work out. PAS5 100% all the way to work".
Nice motor upgrade! Very useful climbing hills, especially for a heavier bike like the 700.
A power based system is not only more controllable than a speed-based one, but safer with a torquey motor. Speed-based systems should not be used with motors with more than about 40Nm of torque. Nothing like getting over 1000W of power sent through an 85Nm-plus motor starting from a stop or in the middle of a tight turn to accelerate the bike out from under you, making you fall off.
👍
The frame is super wobbly. The wheels are not straight and get worse. The fenders are trash and spray water in your face. 2 piston brakes isn't enough for this bike and these need to be bled every few months. The light isn't bright enough and the torque at least on the old bike is pretty weak. That being said I don't regret buying it
Yep, those fenders should be a bit longer. I’ve seen worse though (looking at you, Radster Trail).
How wobbly? LOL Have you tried the Lectric 750 or Summit 1 to compare them??
A step-thru frame is going to be more wobbly than a double-triangle one. That’s probably what the OP is talking about.
I have a Rife1Up Rift with the step-through frame. I think it weighs about 84lbs with fenders and 20Ah pack. I also have a v1 Ride1Up LMT’d, which came only in a step-over double-triangle frame. With 14Ah pack and no fenders it weighs 51lbs. The step-through frame of the Rift definitely feels wobblier than the much lighter step-over frame of the LMT’d, to the point I always have to have at least one hand on the bars of the Rift but can ride hands-free on the LMT’d over the same roads.
The 700 step-thru probably is wobblier than the step-over version, but step-thru frames offer easy mounting-dismounting and can accommodate shorter riders. They’re also safer should you slip off the pedals while riding over rough roads.
Wobbly enough it almost always suffers from the “death wobble” within seconds of letting go of the bars just gliding along a typical residential suburban road (some cracks but no potholes), mostly from frame flex, which I can feel through the bars when taking a turn at speed over roads with pavement, or riding down a tussocky grassy hillside.
I’ve not ridden either of those models, but I understand mechanical engineering enough to see their step-through frames will flex more than their step-over frames, just like the same frames for the 700 would. A triangle with fixed joints is a really strong shape. Cut off one of those beams, removing two of three joints, and you need to stiffen the remaining two beams and add a significant gusset to the remaining single joint to achieve the same stiffness between the two joints representing the stem and saddle. Most don’t, so they flex more, but the flex is acceptable for most riding.
The XPeak, which the 750 is modeled after, suffered the wobble even in its step-over frame when any load over 15lbs was placed on the rear rack, or even a light load on its front rack. I think this is due to the angle of its headtube, not frame flex. It can be dampened by replacing the headset bearings with a set that uses stacked discs with viscous grease between them. Lectric probably stopped including the cargo package as a promotional item with purchase of the XPeak for this reason. They released a v2 of the XPeak, which has a more slack headtube angle, which likely fixed that issue.