Pushing the Limits of RED RAW // 5000 ISO

Grab our MINI Cinematography Course for ONLY $27!
www.thefilmmakerscode.com/joi...
My gear:
kit.co/WillTran
_____________________________
Follow me on Instagram!
/ thewilltran
/ thefilmmakerscode
_____________________________

[@scottievee7467]

I think your choice of ND filter is rough. Dark top left and bottom right. H&Y makes a combo ND/Polarizer. Really really nice.

[@TheWillTran]

Noted, thank you! I’ve been looking around for a better ND/Polarizer combo actually, will check them out 👍

[@shueibdahir]

I think you misunderstand iso on red. dsmc2 red cameras only have one density level of "analog iso". Changing the iso in camera or in post is simply changing the mid gray point.

[@_tographer]

Solid, your studio lighting and color is really nice.
With redcode or any other raw format like braw it can be helpful to regularly shoot with those higher ISO values since it’s essentially metadata and you can bring it back later if needed. Better to “overexpose” ISO 800 and bring it down vs blow out highlights at ISO 100
One tip, stop shooting with variable NDs, those dark spots in the corner and sky are a telltale sign of the polarization problems you get with vari NDs. Choose static NDs and you won’t have those issues - takes a little time on the shoot to switch but saves hours/days trying to fix it in post. I think some of your examples would have been more useable that way.

[@TheWillTran]

Thanks! I definitely do need to grab a mattebox with 4x5.6 static filters as opposed to these crap variables haha.
Screw on filters have always given me a headache
If you got any lightweight mattebox recs please let me know 👍

[@lailailaiyu6395]

@@TheWillTran H&Y swift system or Tilta Mirage with Vaxis ND filter

[@rossdanielart]

What Red camera exactly?

[@jdpmov]

Bro didn't even watch the video lol

[@_tographer]

Looks like the Red Raven, wasn’t obvious but the logo snuck in there for a few frames

[@phild8192]

High iso in daylight and at night at totally different things.

[@samthomas7113]

It’s nice to see you learning something here, but the info you’re passing on here is redundant.
If you’re not adjusting any of physical properties, i.e. your nd, f stop or shutter speed, then in R3D nothing will change. Your ISO is just metadata so your ISO 800 and ISO 5000 clips are exactly the same. Bringing your ISO down in post here is just telling CINE X to add less gain to the image, and setting it to exactly where the other clip is. You haven’t over exposed the image here.
Had you applied the same methodology as your under exposure test, and kept your settings the same, but opened up your lens or whipped the ND off, you could have analysed what actually over exposing the sensor would look like.
And a quick side note, the underexposed image is exhibiting cross polarisation from over rotating your ND, that’s what’s causing the darkened corners here.

[@TheWillTran]

For sure, I did assume that if nothing but the ISO was changed, there really is no issue in terms of screwing up exposure, which is the super cool part about R3D
I definitely need to grab new NDs and polarizers too
Let me know if you got any good recommendations! I’m in the market for them right now

[@samthomas7113]

@@TheWillTran jealous of your Raven mate, I’ve been looking at getting one to use personally recently!
Nisi make really nice and relatively affordable filters. Something to really invest in, no point having a great camera and degrading the image with low quality optics. Someone once said it’s like putting cheap tyres on a formula 1 car.