I think folks would find it interesting if you did a comparison of different drying oils: linseed oil, walnut oil, tung oil, poppy seed oil, and perilla oil. Well, I'd find it interesting anyway.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo If you do this, please include a couple of small sections that are unfinished, so we can see how the color is affected. Maybe just cut a small strip out of the masking tape you're using to separate the sections?
I would like a video on other oils too. Add to the list Finico hemp oil. Also maybe check out Finico double boil linseed oil. Another video about Danish oils and teak oils and what's in them.
The cheapest way is definitely buying bulk cold pressed linseed oil, usually used to feed horses. You get 5 liters for 15 EURs here in Europe. I wouldn't drink that stuff, because you never know if the press they used doesn't have some impurities and oil in the mechanicsm, but for treating wood, that is no problem. (it will be only the tiniest of hints, as it's still food save) If you want to use it unboiled, you can clean it from gum by adding a slight bit of water + vinegar mixture (water to get the water soluble gum and vinegar to have the acid break off the non water soluble gum), shake it up and then let it settle and drain off the cleaner linseed oil, leaving the gum and slime behind. The resulting oil can be cloudy, you can put that in the fridge and wait for a week until more sediment has settled or cool it down even more for refinement. If you drain the result through a simple paper coffee filter, you have a very stable base linseed oil. It has barely any organic material left, so it won't go rancid as fast (a year is no problem), it won't yellow as much when drying, because the gum is a good part of it that causes the browning of hardening linseed oil. You can then store the oil in transparent glass containers and leave them out in the sun to bleach it even further. From that point on boiling it will only improve its properties as boiling destroys even more gum, waxes and impurities, creating a more stable but less penetrating product.
I started using the Tried and True original and, save for a couple special projects, it’s all I use. I just finished a bookcase using this product and found that it polishes great with just some crumpled up clean newsprint or an old paper bag. Easy to find at my local Lee Valley.
I've checked the Safety Data Sheet for the Allback boiled linseed oil and it DOES contain drying salts (2-Ethylhexanoic acid,manganese salt' 0,07mg/litre ). The data sheet is here: linoljeprodukter.se/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/MSDS-Allba%CC%88ck-Linseed-Oil-120924.pdf . The data sheet covers the raw and boiled linseed oil. Only the boiled linseed oil contains salts.
Great comparison! 2 other interesting things to try would be how much more they yellow over time. Especially without sunlight. And mould-resistance. I see a very big difference in mould resistance for different linseed oils. If you live in a wet climate, try storing that wood piece outside in a semi moist environment during winter.
James, I too am a fan of BLO and often use it to pop the grain before a film finish, depending on the project. Another class of oil finishes that seem to be gaining popularity are the hard oil finishes. Osmo is popular in Europe, there is also Monocote and now Briwax has one has well. Would love to see a test as you did her with these products.
I must be a woodworking nerd.....I got a little excited when I saw the title of this video. I might try some Tried and True next time I'm at the store.
In Europe, the 'pure' boiled linseed oil ( without solvents and metallic salts) is known as STAND OIL and is commonly used by artists for the oil paints. I can find STAND OIL on AMAZON/EBAY but it's expensive. I've found one from Germany by Kremer Pigmente. Their list of oils specifically states that it contains no heavy metals (the salts, I assume). The safety data sheet says that it's >99% polymerised linseed oil, so no solvents, I assume. Let me know if you fgind out differently.
If you are a painter who wants to use the stand oil for mixing it with pigment to create oil paints. This site might be interesting and enlightening for you: www.tadspurgeon.com/content.php?page=just+oil
Nice work James. Would love to see a similar comparison of pure Tung oil products (Hope's, Real Milk Paint Co...). It is a little slower to cure... but more water proof and does not grow mold the way linseed oil does makes it a winner for me.
I've also experimented with naturally catalyzed vegetable oils for many years. I'd advise the unfamiliar to simply buy the smallest can of Tried and True varnish oil they can find, probably a quart, and take measures to prevent further oxidation once the can is open because a quart is enough to finish most of a houseful of furniture. Some years ago one of the woodworking magazines carried a humorous piece about sloppily finishing with natural oils. In the final line the author claimed that his flannel shirt burst into flames.
It isn't that there is anything I disagree with, but there are a couple of things I wanted to add. 1. If you need info on finishes, you need to look up the SDS or MSDS for the products. You'll find out what is in it there. 2. ALL finishes are food safe once cured. Every safety agency basically says so. Yes, when uncured the heavy metals and petroleum compounds can irritate the skin. But once that is either interlocked within the oil or evaporated, there is no issues with it. Any amount of cobalt or manganese that came loose as the finish degrades would be so minimal it wouldn't be an issue. And lead has been banned from use for decades. 3. That being said, I would prefer to not use a product with heavy metal driers on a cutting board. For that I prefer the T&T Original because the beeswax works excellently for that type of application. It is easy to renew and actually lasts quite a while on the board. And would last even longer on something like a fruit bowl that won't be washed frequently. 4. I am becoming more and more of a fan of easy to repair finishes or those that age nicely. C. Schwarz did a nice blog entry on this recently. So unless I really need it, polyurethane is probably out -- and thank god, what a pain to apply. 5. BUT, in many applications I just need the damn finish to dry. Even following T&T's instructions, it can be days or weeks to reach a cure time. I am making a cabinet for a friend for Christmas. My finish of choice right now is T&T's Varnish. The MSDS lists "sylvetic" resin; their marketing identifies it as pine resin. I think it does work fairly well for scratch resistance and it does build to a film. Even after several layers it maintains a "close to the wood" feel. Some steel wool and paste wax and you're good. Haven't dared subject it to water, but why would you? Yet even following their application guidelines it takes too long to cure. And the amount you apply is so thin that I doubt you get much penetration into the wood. So... 6. Japan drier to the rescue! Christian Becksvoort often adds spar varnish to his T&T varnish to get the driers needed to cure. I add 0.5 mL japan drier to 30 mL (1 oz) T&T Varnish. Works like a charm, and in a week I can build up about 4 or 5 layers. I just don't think you can do that with the unmodified stuff. I get their reasonings for it: both environmental, health, and even just marketing (VOCs and regulations, etc). So yeah, had to get that out there.
My Joiner's Bench is nearing completion! What do you think of Plaza/sawdust putty, followed by BLO? No major voids, just little crevices around knot holes of Doug Fir and Yellow Pine construction lumber.
If you Google the company name, something about the product, and SDS (safety data sheet), you can get good info about the ingredients. Allback came up right away and it says it has manganese salts etc. Don't know the rules exactly but companies that sell this stuff are usually required to make an SDS available for the product.
Allback BLO has 2-Ethylhexanoic acid and manganese salt in it. I'm not judging, but your definition of "pure" may be different than theirs. I didn't look up any of the others.
Sure. Candle wax is usually made from paraffin wax. It is a much harder wax and a lot of people like that. As to the oil and wax mixture you can use just about any wax you want and just about any oil you want. They all have different characteristics and tendencies and everyone has a slightly different recipe. They like of different things mixed together. Tung oil is a very common one. But just make sure it's actual tongue while and not just something called tung oil. Most Tom oil sold in the store are actually a varnish or have other things mixed in with them.
James, hoping you have some advice… I have an Amish gentleman making home made baskets for resale. They are beautiful but he seals them with linseed oil and the smell is toxic and heavy … takes at least 8 weeks for it to fade. This really delays ability to resale. You didn’t mention anything about the toxic smell. I’m seeking other options that are odorless. Or is he not boiling it and that’s why it smells so heavily? Thanks so very much! Lisa
The smell of linseed oil is a very personal thing. Some people love the smell of it and some people absolutely hate it. Some people describe it as a fruity smell and some people will describe the exact same smell as chemically. As to how to get rid of it once it fully polymerizes, it doesn't have any smell unless you stick your nose into it. With a boiled linseed oil that's usually a couple days. But if using raw linseed oil that might last a month or more.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks so much James!!!! Would you have any other recommendations for a product to use to seal a homemade basket that is odorless but effective?
most finishes are based on a linseed oil, but most who do not like the smell do like pure Tung oil like this. amzn.to/3mKUaHn or pure walnut oil. Tung oil is the closest and walnut oil takes a lot longer to cure. but with Tung oil you have to be carful. a lot of people call what ever mixture they make for finish "Tung oil"
Maybe you can help me out here. I would like to use boiled linseed oil with my oil paints. Does this stuff smell like regular linseed oil? Because I couldn't stand a chemical smell like linseed oil for water soluble paints smells like. Thank you so much for your excellent, informative video.
If it's raw Linseed oil or natural boiled linseed oil, It has a fairly pleasant smell to me. Though some people don't like it. It just smells like a different type of oil. However if they've added other chemicals and dryers into it then it can have some really rancid smells.
do all the oils u can think of next for comparing (i mean things that u normally wouldn't use on wood to test like cooking oil and baby oil and maybe essential oil go crazy with it )
Awesome information! What do you think about using linseed oil paint on exterior cedar siding? I've got mixed feedback about how long it'll last and how much maintenance it requires. I have heard that it pretty much just fades away over years and you can just keep applying more....doesn't really crack and peel requiring scraping like regular paint does. Do you have any thoughts on that? Much appreciated!!!
I wish I could give you just one answer. But the problem is there are so many different formulas and ways to make it that there isn't any one answer. Lindsay oil paints used to be the standard but they've been switching because newer methods last far longer with less problems.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo the problem with modern paints is when they start to fail they peal and crack and have to be scraped off....nightmare lol. Also, paints don't breath so if you do get moisture in the wood is starts to rot. BLO breathes so tends to not have wood rot issues. But I think you right that it's the maintenance people didn't like about BLO paint....it's like paint on cars, we went from single stage paint to base/clear paint because people didn't want to keep their cars waxed every couple months so single stage oxidizes....BUT single stage is actually a far more durable, longer lasting, better protecting finish. We just moved to inferior base clear because it appeals to people not wanting to maintain. I think the move from BLO paint to modern paint is kind of similar to that.
I checked out the price of the ALBAC in Canada and it is slightly cheaper than Tried and True which I can get locally at Lee Valley but unless you can pick it up the shipping doubles the price
I think the Danish includes some poly so no point in switching back to Original. I’ve had furniture that my Dad and I coated with Watco Danish Oil 50 years ago. I finally added another coat a few years ago. 😊
@@Krunch2020 The Tried and True Danish oil has no poly or anything else in it. It's just pure Linseed oil. Watco has driers in it. Not food safe like Tried n True.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my posts. I'm sure your joking, I think it's the brand name it's just what ever the store was selling.
Would anybody have any suggestions for restoring a 2’ redwood statue of a grizzly? It’s been outside for ten years and I’m trying to save it because it’s beautiful.
I would be looking at using a penetrating epoxy. It helps harden the wood and stops water from getting in more. And then after that you can soak it with oil one kind or another depending upon what you like.
Yes. I like walnut oil. I find it dries a little bit slower than BLO and I'm not as much a fan of the color on oak but it is a great general finish oil.
As the undisputed king of BLO within the woodworking community, have you ever played with Pine Tar as a wood preservative? Seems to have similar benefits to BLO, with a darker color and IMO a nice smell to it. Research on the internet is absolutely bewildering though, so would love your opinion or even an in-depth spreadsheet type of study? LOL!
I have used it a few times and found it to be a bit more difficulty with few benefits. but that is just my personal thoughts on it. that would be a fun one to do a video or two on.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I like the darker color and smell, so I've been dabbling with ratios for Pine Tar, Terpentine, and BLO. Maybe someday I'll discover the perfect blend!
Plaza Double Boiled Linseed Oil has claimed that they use metallic drying agents, and therefore is not food safe. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone still looking. I'm trying to find one with no additives without doing at home.
That information is not true. Plaza | Double Boiled Linseed Oil does not contain any drying agents/additives. It is 100% Pure. See MSDS here drive.google.com/file/d/1Zal6Dmhm8ExyvsL5t8OJcqsBBusyjIk-/view?usp=sharing
@@arjunagarwal2209 You are correct in stating that it has no chemicals currently listed on its safety datasheet. But in the past it was stated "chemical dryers" were used on the specifications sheet. When I made this comment that was what I was basing it off of. Now, it been stated as a "clerical error" and the specification sheet has been updated and lists no chemical additives. So thanks for letting me clear that up. Have a good day.
Great video. I have just treated an english white oak beam with boiled linseed oil and after 3 days its dried way to dark. I obviously didn't sand it enough prior and would like to use acetone to remove the oil before i go back to the sander and start again. Would acetone do the trick and break the linseed oil down so i can wipe it off?
Usually sanding more in face grain will actually cause it to be darker. The dust doesn't actually clog the pores it will wick the oil down in deeper. The best surface for a lighter color would be to plan it or scrape it first. That would create less dust in the pores sucking it down in. Unfortunately using acetone will break down the oil but it won't bring it out of the wood It will actually push it into the wood farther as it would thin it out. At this point the best thing to get rid of the color is to scrape it off or to plane it down. If you want a lighter color with boiled linseed oil then use a sanding sealer first. That will seal the surface meaning that the oil won't soak in as much. It will also flatten out the color so you won't see as much variance between the rays and the grain of the wood. But as always test first on scrap wood.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo No problem! Thank Taylor Toolworks for sharing it with me. I am curious to play around with the double boiled myself - I am guessing that it is just cooked at a higher temperature or oxygenated during the cooking process to create that thicker, nearly fully polymerized consistency.
For my bowls I tend to use shellac as a sanding sealer and then carnuba wax to friction finish. How would you compare that to the Tried & True Original or Varnish Oil?
Shellac is far more of a surface finish. It is a buildup protective surface. Where is these will go more into the top grain fibers. So you'll get far more wood texture with these.
I stopped using BLO/RLO a few years back. Both are the perfect Petri dish for black mold. For outside furniture that sees the sun and rain, I no longer use a film forming finish (sorry Waterlox). Tung oil with a mildewcide and a UV stabilizer seem to be working well in the PNW. Each spring I wipe down/sand if necessary, and apply another coat or two if needed. Allow to dry and let the party begin.
So it took me a small minute to figure out how to purchase the tried and true, turns out I can buy it at my local Woodcraft, so anyone who has one nearby there ya go
@@WoodByWrightHowTo to me its about the only benefit to living in close proximity to a city the size of Detroit. I actually prefer living in the country, its quiet, you can see the stars better and wood is always just lying around on the ground
So I got a gift card to woodcraft in the amount of $25 so after taxes and 1pound of some random exotic wood I will be spending like $2 out of pocket because tried and true ain't cheap
Not sure if anyone has asked this before, but I recently came across a site called shop-earthpaint.net that sells what they call Special Linseed Oil that I have yet to try and wondered if you had gotten the chance?
The brand for the Swedish oil is "Ottosons"... The word Färgmakeri means "paint factory". The "Allbäck" seems to be from Sweden too. I did enjoy your futile attempt at pronouncing Swedish, it's a language where the letters and sounds have seemingly no relationship to each other.
Allback SDS for its boiled linseed oil states: 100% linseed oil; 0.07 mg / L 2-Ethylhexanoic acid, manganese salt; 0.06% (wt/wt) 2-Ethyl hexane acid So does have manganese salt as a drier. See SDS at: linoljeprodukter.se/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SDS-Allback-Linseed-Oil-2021-01-20.pdf
I think folks would find it interesting if you did a comparison of different drying oils: linseed oil, walnut oil, tung oil, poppy seed oil, and perilla oil.
Well, I'd find it interesting anyway.
That might be a fun topic.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo If you do this, please include a couple of small sections that are unfinished, so we can see how the color is affected. Maybe just cut a small strip out of the masking tape you're using to separate the sections?
That would be a great video.
That would be really interesting!
I would like a video on other oils too. Add to the list Finico hemp oil. Also maybe check out Finico double boil linseed oil. Another video about Danish oils and teak oils and what's in them.
The one from Ottossons Färgmakeri is without any drying agents. Just oil according to the safety data sheet. I use it for almost everything. :)
Thank you.
The cheapest way is definitely buying bulk cold pressed linseed oil, usually used to feed horses. You get 5 liters for 15 EURs here in Europe. I wouldn't drink that stuff, because you never know if the press they used doesn't have some impurities and oil in the mechanicsm, but for treating wood, that is no problem. (it will be only the tiniest of hints, as it's still food save)
If you want to use it unboiled, you can clean it from gum by adding a slight bit of water + vinegar mixture (water to get the water soluble gum and vinegar to have the acid break off the non water soluble gum), shake it up and then let it settle and drain off the cleaner linseed oil, leaving the gum and slime behind. The resulting oil can be cloudy, you can put that in the fridge and wait for a week until more sediment has settled or cool it down even more for refinement. If you drain the result through a simple paper coffee filter, you have a very stable base linseed oil. It has barely any organic material left, so it won't go rancid as fast (a year is no problem), it won't yellow as much when drying, because the gum is a good part of it that causes the browning of hardening linseed oil. You can then store the oil in transparent glass containers and leave them out in the sun to bleach it even further.
From that point on boiling it will only improve its properties as boiling destroys even more gum, waxes and impurities, creating a more stable but less penetrating product.
I started using the Tried and True original and, save for a couple special projects, it’s all I use. I just finished a bookcase using this product and found that it polishes great with just some crumpled up clean newsprint or an old paper bag. Easy to find at my local Lee Valley.
I've checked the Safety Data Sheet for the Allback boiled linseed oil and it DOES contain drying salts (2-Ethylhexanoic acid,manganese salt' 0,07mg/litre ). The data sheet is here: linoljeprodukter.se/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/MSDS-Allba%CC%88ck-Linseed-Oil-120924.pdf . The data sheet covers the raw and boiled linseed oil. Only the boiled linseed oil contains salts.
Great comparison! 2 other interesting things to try would be how much more they yellow over time. Especially without sunlight. And mould-resistance. I see a very big difference in mould resistance for different linseed oils. If you live in a wet climate, try storing that wood piece outside in a semi moist environment during winter.
James, I too am a fan of BLO and often use it to pop the grain before a film finish, depending on the project. Another class of oil finishes that seem to be gaining popularity are the hard oil finishes. Osmo is popular in Europe, there is also Monocote and now Briwax has one has well. Would love to see a test as you did her with these products.
Good call with the rags. I lay mine out in my driveway overnight& usually they are crunchy & ready to toss the next day.
I agree with you. Tried and True Danish Oil is excellent. It's my go to finish. Works excellently and smells great.
I must be a woodworking nerd.....I got a little excited when I saw the title of this video. I might try some Tried and True next time I'm at the store.
In Europe, the 'pure' boiled linseed oil ( without solvents and metallic salts) is known as STAND OIL and is commonly used by artists for the oil paints. I can find STAND OIL on AMAZON/EBAY but it's expensive. I've found one from Germany by Kremer Pigmente. Their list of oils specifically states that it contains no heavy metals (the salts, I assume). The safety data sheet says that it's >99% polymerised linseed oil, so no solvents, I assume. Let me know if you fgind out differently.
If you are a painter who wants to use the stand oil for mixing it with pigment to create oil paints. This site might be interesting and enlightening for you: www.tadspurgeon.com/content.php?page=just+oil
Nice work James. Would love to see a similar comparison of pure Tung oil products (Hope's, Real Milk Paint Co...). It is a little slower to cure... but more water proof and does not grow mold the way linseed oil does makes it a winner for me.
I've also experimented with naturally catalyzed vegetable oils for many years. I'd advise the unfamiliar to simply buy the smallest can of Tried and True varnish oil they can find, probably a quart, and take measures to prevent further oxidation once the can is open because a quart is enough to finish most of a houseful of furniture. Some years ago one of the woodworking magazines carried a humorous piece about sloppily finishing with natural oils. In the final line the author claimed that his flannel shirt burst into flames.
There is a FWW magazine video with Christian Becksvoort on applying T&T's varnish oil. It is worth a watch.
It isn't that there is anything I disagree with, but there are a couple of things I wanted to add.
1. If you need info on finishes, you need to look up the SDS or MSDS for the products. You'll find out what is in it there.
2. ALL finishes are food safe once cured. Every safety agency basically says so. Yes, when uncured the heavy metals and petroleum compounds can irritate the skin. But once that is either interlocked within the oil or evaporated, there is no issues with it. Any amount of cobalt or manganese that came loose as the finish degrades would be so minimal it wouldn't be an issue. And lead has been banned from use for decades.
3. That being said, I would prefer to not use a product with heavy metal driers on a cutting board. For that I prefer the T&T Original because the beeswax works excellently for that type of application. It is easy to renew and actually lasts quite a while on the board. And would last even longer on something like a fruit bowl that won't be washed frequently.
4. I am becoming more and more of a fan of easy to repair finishes or those that age nicely. C. Schwarz did a nice blog entry on this recently. So unless I really need it, polyurethane is probably out -- and thank god, what a pain to apply.
5. BUT, in many applications I just need the damn finish to dry. Even following T&T's instructions, it can be days or weeks to reach a cure time. I am making a cabinet for a friend for Christmas. My finish of choice right now is T&T's Varnish. The MSDS lists "sylvetic" resin; their marketing identifies it as pine resin. I think it does work fairly well for scratch resistance and it does build to a film. Even after several layers it maintains a "close to the wood" feel. Some steel wool and paste wax and you're good. Haven't dared subject it to water, but why would you? Yet even following their application guidelines it takes too long to cure. And the amount you apply is so thin that I doubt you get much penetration into the wood. So...
6. Japan drier to the rescue! Christian Becksvoort often adds spar varnish to his T&T varnish to get the driers needed to cure. I add 0.5 mL japan drier to 30 mL (1 oz) T&T Varnish. Works like a charm, and in a week I can build up about 4 or 5 layers. I just don't think you can do that with the unmodified stuff. I get their reasonings for it: both environmental, health, and even just marketing (VOCs and regulations, etc).
So yeah, had to get that out there.
My Joiner's Bench is nearing completion! What do you think of Plaza/sawdust putty, followed by BLO? No major voids, just little crevices around knot holes of Doug Fir and Yellow Pine construction lumber.
that works. if you want to fill them. sounds like you are having fun!
I would like to suggest a follow up to this video. Gather the MSDS sheets for each product and see if the information alters your recommendations.
Thanks for this great comparison. I wonder if these brands are still true in 2024?
Try pure hemp oil, you'll love it. Dries quick and is % 100 non toxic.
It is good stuff for sure.
If you Google the company name, something about the product, and SDS (safety data sheet), you can get good info about the ingredients. Allback came up right away and it says it has manganese salts etc.
Don't know the rules exactly but companies that sell this stuff are usually required to make an SDS available for the product.
Yes. Some of them are required to do that and some are not.
Allback BLO has 2-Ethylhexanoic acid and manganese salt in it. I'm not judging, but your definition of "pure" may be different than theirs. I didn't look up any of the others.
Any idea how tried and true would work on red wood outdoor furniture in an arid state like Colorado?
Very helpful review. Thank you.
Dear Mr. James, can candle wax be used as a substitute for beeswax ? What oils can be used in place of boiled linseed and tung oil ?
Sure. Candle wax is usually made from paraffin wax. It is a much harder wax and a lot of people like that. As to the oil and wax mixture you can use just about any wax you want and just about any oil you want. They all have different characteristics and tendencies and everyone has a slightly different recipe. They like of different things mixed together. Tung oil is a very common one. But just make sure it's actual tongue while and not just something called tung oil. Most Tom oil sold in the store are actually a varnish or have other things mixed in with them.
James, hoping you have some advice… I have an Amish gentleman making home made baskets for resale. They are beautiful but he seals them with linseed oil and the smell is toxic and heavy … takes at least 8 weeks for it to fade. This really delays ability to resale. You didn’t mention anything about the toxic smell. I’m seeking other options that are odorless. Or is he not boiling it and that’s why it smells so heavily?
Thanks so very much!
Lisa
The smell of linseed oil is a very personal thing. Some people love the smell of it and some people absolutely hate it. Some people describe it as a fruity smell and some people will describe the exact same smell as chemically. As to how to get rid of it once it fully polymerizes, it doesn't have any smell unless you stick your nose into it. With a boiled linseed oil that's usually a couple days. But if using raw linseed oil that might last a month or more.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks so much James!!!!
Would you have any other recommendations for a product to use to seal a homemade basket that is odorless but effective?
most finishes are based on a linseed oil, but most who do not like the smell do like pure Tung oil like this. amzn.to/3mKUaHn or pure walnut oil. Tung oil is the closest and walnut oil takes a lot longer to cure. but with Tung oil you have to be carful. a lot of people call what ever mixture they make for finish "Tung oil"
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Gotcha!!! Thanks so very much for your time and expertise!!
Maybe you can help me out here. I would like to use boiled linseed oil with my oil paints. Does this stuff smell like regular linseed oil? Because I couldn't stand a chemical smell like linseed oil for water soluble paints smells like. Thank you so much for your excellent, informative video.
If it's raw Linseed oil or natural boiled linseed oil, It has a fairly pleasant smell to me. Though some people don't like it. It just smells like a different type of oil. However if they've added other chemicals and dryers into it then it can have some really rancid smells.
do all the oils u can think of next for comparing (i mean things that u normally wouldn't use on wood to test like cooking oil and baby oil and maybe essential oil go crazy with it )
Great testing, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome information! What do you think about using linseed oil paint on exterior cedar siding? I've got mixed feedback about how long it'll last and how much maintenance it requires. I have heard that it pretty much just fades away over years and you can just keep applying more....doesn't really crack and peel requiring scraping like regular paint does.
Do you have any thoughts on that?
Much appreciated!!!
I wish I could give you just one answer. But the problem is there are so many different formulas and ways to make it that there isn't any one answer. Lindsay oil paints used to be the standard but they've been switching because newer methods last far longer with less problems.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo the problem with modern paints is when they start to fail they peal and crack and have to be scraped off....nightmare lol. Also, paints don't breath so if you do get moisture in the wood is starts to rot. BLO breathes so tends to not have wood rot issues.
But I think you right that it's the maintenance people didn't like about BLO paint....it's like paint on cars, we went from single stage paint to base/clear paint because people didn't want to keep their cars waxed every couple months so single stage oxidizes....BUT single stage is actually a far more durable, longer lasting, better protecting finish. We just moved to inferior base clear because it appeals to people not wanting to maintain.
I think the move from BLO paint to modern paint is kind of similar to that.
I checked out the price of the ALBAC in Canada and it is slightly cheaper than Tried and True which I can get locally at Lee Valley but unless you can pick it up the shipping doubles the price
Yeah. Shipping is a pain on these. It's good to hear that the Lee valley store carries tried and true. Thanks for letting me know.
Where in Ontario can you get ALBAC?
@@willxin4517 Sage Restoration in Kingston
I'm working on a new, red elm axe handle. I'm thinking to use a base of Tried & True Danish, followed by two or three applications of T&T Original.
I think the Danish includes some poly so no point in switching back to Original. I’ve had furniture that my Dad and I coated with Watco Danish Oil 50 years ago. I finally added another coat a few years ago. 😊
@@Krunch2020 The Tried and True Danish oil has no poly or anything else in it. It's just pure Linseed oil. Watco has driers in it. Not food safe like Tried n True.
I bought a jug of circa 1850 double boiled linseed oil (Canada) to motivate me to finish some projects.
Wow is it still fluid? I've never worked with 170-year-old wood finish.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my posts. I'm sure your joking, I think it's the brand name it's just what ever the store was selling.
Would anybody have any suggestions for restoring a 2’ redwood statue of a grizzly? It’s been outside for ten years and I’m trying to save it because it’s beautiful.
I would be looking at using a penetrating epoxy. It helps harden the wood and stops water from getting in more. And then after that you can soak it with oil one kind or another depending upon what you like.
Great video! Curious if you have any thoughts on Walnut oil vs. Linseed oil? I love the tried and true products.
Both are great. But walnut oil is far slower and it's polymerization. The works very much the same
@@WoodByWrightHowTo good to know! I didn't realize it was slower. FYI, I used your BLO in the sun technique. takes a bit longer to dry but I like it.
Have you tried walnut oil? It seems to give wood a BLO like luster. Though it isn't cheap.
Yes. I like walnut oil. I find it dries a little bit slower than BLO and I'm not as much a fan of the color on oak but it is a great general finish oil.
Thank You For The Good Comparison👍
This was super helpful, thank you!
Cool!!! Thanks James!!! 👍😎
Just a little note, both Ottoson and Allbäck(albac) are made in sweden:)
It was obviusos for me when i saw the stickers bacause I´m from Sweden .
Interesting. Because it says on the canister that it's made in Canada.
Here is a link to Allbäck, linoljeprodukter.se
Br, Björn (another Swede)
I wonder if they make it in multiple locations.
It is possible, bu I doubt it. it is a small company, Allbäck (Swedish name) linojleprodukter AB, on a farm close to Ystad in southernmost Sweden.
The text on the label "Kokt linolja" is also swedish for boiled linseed oil.
As the undisputed king of BLO within the woodworking community, have you ever played with Pine Tar as a wood preservative? Seems to have similar benefits to BLO, with a darker color and IMO a nice smell to it. Research on the internet is absolutely bewildering though, so would love your opinion or even an in-depth spreadsheet type of study? LOL!
I have used it a few times and found it to be a bit more difficulty with few benefits. but that is just my personal thoughts on it. that would be a fun one to do a video or two on.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I like the darker color and smell, so I've been dabbling with ratios for Pine Tar, Terpentine, and BLO. Maybe someday I'll discover the perfect blend!
I've seen Tried and True Danish oil at Walmart before. It was considerably cheaper than it was at Wood Craft.
Wow. At Walmart. That's cool.
Plaza Double Boiled Linseed Oil has claimed that they use metallic drying agents, and therefore is not food safe. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone still looking. I'm trying to find one with no additives without doing at home.
That information is not true. Plaza | Double Boiled Linseed Oil does not contain any drying agents/additives. It is 100% Pure.
See MSDS here
drive.google.com/file/d/1Zal6Dmhm8ExyvsL5t8OJcqsBBusyjIk-/view?usp=sharing
@@arjunagarwal2209 You are correct in stating that it has no chemicals currently listed on its safety datasheet. But in the past it was stated "chemical dryers" were used on the specifications sheet. When I made this comment that was what I was basing it off of. Now, it been stated as a "clerical error" and the specification sheet has been updated and lists no chemical additives. So thanks for letting me clear that up. Have a good day.
Thank you very much !
I take Flax Seed oil as a supplement... I noticed it smelled like linseed oil and no wonder it is the same
Yes. Flaxseed oil is linseed oil. Linseed oil derives from the scientific name for the flaxseed plant.
Omg, my stomach is going to catch fire.
"OIl baron." Ha Ha - good one, James.
Great video. I have just treated an english white oak beam with boiled linseed oil and after 3 days its dried way to dark. I obviously didn't sand it enough prior and would like to use acetone to remove the oil before i go back to the sander and start again. Would acetone do the trick and break the linseed oil down so i can wipe it off?
Usually sanding more in face grain will actually cause it to be darker. The dust doesn't actually clog the pores it will wick the oil down in deeper. The best surface for a lighter color would be to plan it or scrape it first. That would create less dust in the pores sucking it down in. Unfortunately using acetone will break down the oil but it won't bring it out of the wood It will actually push it into the wood farther as it would thin it out. At this point the best thing to get rid of the color is to scrape it off or to plane it down. If you want a lighter color with boiled linseed oil then use a sanding sealer first. That will seal the surface meaning that the oil won't soak in as much. It will also flatten out the color so you won't see as much variance between the rays and the grain of the wood. But as always test first on scrap wood.
Thanks!
James, that was a very good review. I manage social media for Tried + True & I will share this on Tried + True's social media.
Thanks Josh! that means a lot.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo No problem! Thank Taylor Toolworks for sharing it with me. I am curious to play around with the double boiled myself - I am guessing that it is just cooked at a higher temperature or oxygenated during the cooking process to create that thicker, nearly fully polymerized consistency.
That is my thought as well. It woudl be fun to find out!
For my bowls I tend to use shellac as a sanding sealer and then carnuba wax to friction finish. How would you compare that to the Tried & True Original or Varnish Oil?
Shellac is far more of a surface finish. It is a buildup protective surface. Where is these will go more into the top grain fibers. So you'll get far more wood texture with these.
If you apply paste wax after applying oil, do you need to remove that wax before repairing the finish later?
I stopped using BLO/RLO a few years back. Both are the perfect Petri dish for black mold. For outside furniture that sees the sun and rain, I no longer use a film forming finish (sorry Waterlox). Tung oil with a mildewcide and a UV stabilizer seem to be working well in the PNW. Each spring I wipe down/sand if necessary, and apply another coat or two if needed. Allow to dry and let the party begin.
Is it possible to thin(dilute) the Plaza ?
Sure. You can use most of the thinners to do that. something like alcohol would send it out and then evaporate when it's done.
Can we use Tried and True as an oil painting medium? on a canvas too?
I don't see why not. It might be a bit more yellow then you might like. You can make bleached linseed oil. That has a much clearer tone.
Seems to me you would of gotten much farther if you had contacted the manufacturer and asked, typically they are very helpful with that.
So it took me a small minute to figure out how to purchase the tried and true, turns out I can buy it at my local Woodcraft, so anyone who has one nearby there ya go
Right on. If you're lucky enough to have one nearby it's a great resource.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo to me its about the only benefit to living in close proximity to a city the size of Detroit. I actually prefer living in the country, its quiet, you can see the stars better and wood is always just lying around on the ground
So I got a gift card to woodcraft in the amount of $25 so after taxes and 1pound of some random exotic wood I will be spending like $2 out of pocket because tried and true ain't cheap
Awesome thanks so much
WHAT ABOUT WATCO DANISH OIL
That is oil plus a varnish or lacquer and then a thinner as well. Danish oil means oil Plus film finish.
Thanks!!
Not sure if anyone has asked this before, but I recently came across a site called shop-earthpaint.net that sells what they call Special Linseed Oil that I have yet to try and wondered if you had gotten the chance?
I will have to look it up.
I just found the Tried & True on Amazon - looks like a reasonable price - and available for Prime shipping too. Just ordered
If your ever test varnishes consider Rubbed Effect from Epifanes would like to hear your thoughts www.epifanes.com/page/rubbed-effect
The natural, home made oil, has the better appearance
The brand for the Swedish oil is "Ottosons"... The word Färgmakeri means "paint factory". The "Allbäck" seems to be from Sweden too. I did enjoy your futile attempt at pronouncing Swedish, it's a language where the letters and sounds have seemingly no relationship to each other.
Across the board....I see what you did there. Very punny
Allback SDS for its boiled linseed oil states:
100% linseed oil;
0.07 mg / L 2-Ethylhexanoic acid, manganese salt;
0.06% (wt/wt) 2-Ethyl hexane acid
So does have manganese salt as a drier.
See SDS at: linoljeprodukter.se/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/SDS-Allback-Linseed-Oil-2021-01-20.pdf
Can i buy a gallon of your Raw Linseed oil?
Sorry. I generally get my raw from a friend with a press. if you find someone with a juicing press they can make it for you from Flax seeds.
"across the board"
...wait for it to kick in...
Allback linseed oil originates from Swede.
That's what I've been told. However this bottle says made in Canada.
if it is sold in the U.S. look up its M.S.D.S ( Material Safety Data Sheet)on the net.
No matter what, drinking any finish is always a bad idea.
surprisingly BLO and Raw linseed oil are also sold as supplements. many are even certified by the FDA.