I just bought the same model at Richie Bros. auction 2 weeks ago. Other than loading it on and off the trailer, I haven't had a chance to use it yet. Before I do I want to change all the fluids, grease it and tighten any loose bolts, screws, etc.
Yeah get that oil out of there. Whatever is in there is not up to normal oil standards. It's fun to mess with. I've got around 7 hours on it so far and nothing major.
@@schultp I didnt change out anything on the wheel motors? i didnt look to far into it. Am i missing something? the other hyd units ive messed with are just one fluid, no seperate systems.
I'm hoping to pick up either an AGT or MIVA at an auction this week. The auction yard said they will help with loading, but I need to figure out unloading. Does it typically come with all the fluids needed to at least drive it off of the trailer? Or should I plan on changing/adding fluids (oil, hydraulic fluid, other) before removing it from the trailer?
sorry if this is a repeat comment. i think i fixed the jerkyness with springs on the actuator buttons under the rubber shroud on the pilot controls . i cut a 9/16" x 1 3/4" compression spring in half and slipped it over the button, it gives resistance to the controls. please comment if you think it is going to cause an issue
I was thinking about one large spring like a ATV/snowmobile clutch spring to go under the whole control lever, but I ran it for 11 hours in 2 days and my shoulders were already feeling it. It could have been more of ridding the bull movements but either way. As for what you did, I don't see how that would cause any issues. Might have to try that way.
How stiff a spring are you using. The ones that I am finding in the size you recommended seem very stiff, so are you using the really stiff springs that are cut in half, or are they a lighter spring.
Just a qord of advise. The flat pin zerks for grease are actually really good beacuse they dont stick out and therefore dont get broken off like nipple zerks...i left mine and happier for it..buddy did his with nipple zerks and broke one off abobe the boom the first day...just my 2 cents
Solid thinking, but if get low pro straight nipples they should be near flush with the outside of the ram. If not I'll make a collar to weld on to protect it.
So more money and work and time when ya can just leave the ones that are there that work fine ...but to each his own...was just telling my experience...have a great day
@truthfirst4249 only need one real grease gun though. The little need point one that came with a soup sandwich, and I don't want to get a different tip for my good ones because this is the only thing I have that has those cone tips
@backwoodscustoms makes sense..i have a quick change fitting on my grease gun so take 3 seconds to go from standard stylin style and my grease gun came with all the zerk sttle connectors...was like 20 bucks on Amazon..
@@roberto3330 so far I'd just keep an eye on the motor coming lose from the mounting bracket. But they have pretty rough gears so there's a lot of play. Not ideal but it is what it is in .y opinion.
It's just over the top of the sight glass, there's a baffle in the tank about 2" down from the fill hole, it's not over that. I ran it for 5hours straight the other day in hard digging and no oil expansion issues. Is it oe recommended? No. But every little bit of extra oil is more to move heat. Also if it wanted less it would just puke it out and let you know how much it wants.
I just purchased a AGT LS15R and would like to change to hydraulic thumb. Unfortunately 3 different versions for the 3 hole setup . Would you happen to know what kit will work on our LS15R model ..Thank you
I do not, from what I understand there's not much difference between the different models. My miva kit of attachments all fit fine. Also have you used the hoe with the standard thumb yet? Or how much are you going to need the thumb? If it's just sometimes, I think a fixed one works just fine. But ... Accessories are fun too.
@MarioPenna-w7h they are nice, but when I was at the auction they were going for $150-$180 and I thought that was steep, FB or eBay sells them for $250+ and that's way to much imo. I'd like one, but then your aux hyd are tied up all the time unless you get a 3 way splitter. It does take some getting used to but if you get snap lock pins and get rid of the bolts to move the thumbs pins, it doesn't take much to move it.
Hey I was wrong. I'm not sure what I was looking at, these only have a single pump. For some reason I was looking at it thinking it was piggy backed pumps. IT is a single pump with a splitter for pilot controls and track. I'll delete my previous comment.
There at two pumps. The main pump supplies fluid to all functions including the boom movements. The second pump supplies fluid to the pilot controls levers. The boom control valves are hydraulic actuated hydraulic valves. So the second pump supplies the fluid from the pilot controls to open and close the valves in the main valve block for boom and slew movements. So that is the reason that the boom doesn't do anything when the pilot controls are moved without the engine running.
@ngnmech yeah, that's what I was looking at when dude asked if it was dual or single pumps, then got to thinking, usually when someone is talking dual pumps, they mean 2 high pressure, separate system pumps. So I back pedaled and said single pump. But then I got to thinking it technically is 2 pump out let's, but one is low pressure, then I didn't know if low pressure pilot side was it's own pump or just a bleed valve in the pump . Then I felt like I didn't know what I was talking about and was hoping someone who could explain it correctly would comment on it and straighten all of us out. So thank you for being the guy that can explain things better then me.
How jerky are the controls? Im looking at buying one at auction and keep reading they are very hard to operate, did you have to change something on the controls
One guy commented here about putting small compression springs under the control base. I was going to grab some the other day and try it, but ive been crazy busy. Another guy said that he turned down the relief valve, but im not sure about doing that, usually when you reduce operating pressures, you do lose a bit of power. If you run two controls at one time like bucket, and swing or w.e its really not that bad. But yes. jerky jerky. The pilot controls are worse. I ran a agt 12 that was the center controls and it was way way smoother to operate.
@@backwoodscustoms Damn maybe I should've bought ones with center controls. thought pilot would be better, oh well I'm sure I can make something work to modify it better
Only things I've found issues with is electrical related. All hardware was tight, so far... As far as jerking, I've found that if I just dig without thinking about it and full stick it, it's acceptable. Running 2 functions at once reduces the pressure in the charge lines and make it feel smoother, when trying to do fine adjustments, it's like a coked up squirrel.
@backwoodscustoms I pay UA-cam to make me feel important. This video made me spend last week mounting my woods 1055 backhoe to our old ford 8000, now to dig out a tree line.
There's no way I'd run that oil. It had more water like properties than oil. I know break in oil has a higher zinc content but that oil didn't seem like it was going to do any good for the engine.
Yeah, the only time I e wound er out is when I'm just tracking around. I do think it's wearing in with more work and becoming 'manageable' not great but usable
They are sure not a big hoe that's for sure, but if you've seen a couple of my other videos, you'll see I'm no stranger to a shovel, and I hope this is going to work.
There were 40+ at the auction, there really wasn't much difference unless you were going from one to the other, with a tape measure. I had a list going and after about 10, there really seemed to be no rhyme nor reason to it. I can get behind the 1.2-1.5 ton numbers but there's still not thY much difference.
@@backwoodscustoms -- There are numerous differences - three different engines available, some have enclosed cabs, different access panels, hand and foot controls located differently, some have hydraulic filter, and/or more than one hydraulic pump, etc. Some of them are also a different "Brand", and of course, advertised retail prices are an indicator of which has "more". I looked at them at three different auctions and on the internet for more than a year before deciding. I just recently bought the MX15R on marketplace for less than the cheapest one at auction (with 0.4 hours) because the guy was going through a divorce.
@Rattlerjake1 divorce sales suck for that guy but get a few people some screaming deals. I just wish the manufacturer made a list and comprehensive description of what means what or what options that machine has.
Oh yeah for sure. $5k is plenty cheap enough for what you get. Ive got around 20 hours on it now and if they were paying jobs, id probably had made most of the money back.
I always here how jurky these machines are. First off don't run at full throttle. Then they wount to complain about how these cheap Chinese machines are. If you have 30,000 to what ever amount of money to spend on name brand. Dont buy cheap Chinese mini. Not all of us can afford a 20,000 or more machines. If you can't do repairs on cheap Chinese mini excavator dont buy one. I have been playing for about over 3 years now.
I just bought the same model at Richie Bros. auction 2 weeks ago.
Other than loading it on and off the trailer, I haven't had a chance to use it yet.
Before I do I want to change all the fluids, grease it and tighten any loose bolts, screws, etc.
Yeah get that oil out of there. Whatever is in there is not up to normal oil standards. It's fun to mess with. I've got around 7 hours on it so far and nothing major.
@@backwoodscustoms Did you change the oil in the drive units yet? I assume those have a crappy oil from the factory as well.
@@schultp I didnt change out anything on the wheel motors? i didnt look to far into it. Am i missing something? the other hyd units ive messed with are just one fluid, no seperate systems.
YOU HAVE A LIFE LONG PROJECT.
I'm hoping to pick up either an AGT or MIVA at an auction this week. The auction yard said they will help with loading, but I need to figure out unloading. Does it typically come with all the fluids needed to at least drive it off of the trailer? Or should I plan on changing/adding fluids (oil, hydraulic fluid, other) before removing it from the trailer?
They usually have a bit of gas so you can drive it onto / off a trailer.
Just check fluids and get it off the trailer and in a spot to swap them out. Mine had enough to be used but both were a touch low.
sorry if this is a repeat comment. i think i fixed the jerkyness with springs on the actuator buttons under the rubber shroud on the pilot controls . i cut a 9/16" x 1 3/4" compression spring in half and slipped it over the button, it gives resistance to the controls. please comment if you think it is going to cause an issue
I was thinking about one large spring like a ATV/snowmobile clutch spring to go under the whole control lever, but I ran it for 11 hours in 2 days and my shoulders were already feeling it. It could have been more of ridding the bull movements but either way.
As for what you did, I don't see how that would cause any issues. Might have to try that way.
How stiff a spring are you using. The ones that I am finding in the size you recommended seem very stiff, so are you using the really stiff springs that are cut in half, or are they a lighter spring.
Just a qord of advise. The flat pin zerks for grease are actually really good beacuse they dont stick out and therefore dont get broken off like nipple zerks...i left mine and happier for it..buddy did his with nipple zerks and broke one off abobe the boom the first day...just my 2 cents
Solid thinking, but if get low pro straight nipples they should be near flush with the outside of the ram. If not I'll make a collar to weld on to protect it.
So more money and work and time when ya can just leave the ones that are there that work fine ...but to each his own...was just telling my experience...have a great day
@truthfirst4249 only need one real grease gun though. The little need point one that came with a soup sandwich, and I don't want to get a different tip for my good ones because this is the only thing I have that has those cone tips
@backwoodscustoms makes sense..i have a quick change fitting on my grease gun so take 3 seconds to go from standard stylin style and my grease gun came with all the zerk sttle connectors...was like 20 bucks on Amazon..
@truthfirst4249 well now I'm interested, I'll take a look at that. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing! I have the same unit! I have some play on the turn gear, I noticed yours does too, any concerns?
@@roberto3330 so far I'd just keep an eye on the motor coming lose from the mounting bracket. But they have pretty rough gears so there's a lot of play. Not ideal but it is what it is in .y opinion.
Any concerns with over filling the hydraulic fluid tank?? Thanks man!
It's just over the top of the sight glass, there's a baffle in the tank about 2" down from the fill hole, it's not over that. I ran it for 5hours straight the other day in hard digging and no oil expansion issues. Is it oe recommended? No. But every little bit of extra oil is more to move heat.
Also if it wanted less it would just puke it out and let you know how much it wants.
I just purchased a AGT LS15R and would like to change to hydraulic thumb. Unfortunately 3 different versions for the 3 hole setup . Would you happen to know what kit will work on our LS15R model ..Thank you
I do not, from what I understand there's not much difference between the different models. My miva kit of attachments all fit fine.
Also have you used the hoe with the standard thumb yet? Or how much are you going to need the thumb? If it's just sometimes, I think a fixed one works just fine. But ... Accessories are fun too.
@@backwoodscustoms Thank you , i have not used the machine yet , but ill give it a try before buying the hydraulic thumb..Thanks again
@MarioPenna-w7h they are nice, but when I was at the auction they were going for $150-$180 and I thought that was steep, FB or eBay sells them for $250+ and that's way to much imo. I'd like one, but then your aux hyd are tied up all the time unless you get a 3 way splitter.
It does take some getting used to but if you get snap lock pins and get rid of the bolts to move the thumbs pins, it doesn't take much to move it.
Check the other oil dipstick which is just on the opposite side of the motor.
i did switch them out front to back so i can use the dipstick easier.
Does the LS15R have a dual hydraulic pump or single pump? If dual what is the second pump running? The auxiliary?
Hey I was wrong. I'm not sure what I was looking at, these only have a single pump. For some reason I was looking at it thinking it was piggy backed pumps. IT is a single pump with a splitter for pilot controls and track.
I'll delete my previous comment.
There at two pumps. The main pump supplies fluid to all functions including the boom movements. The second pump supplies fluid to the pilot controls levers. The boom control valves are hydraulic actuated hydraulic valves. So the second pump supplies the fluid from the pilot controls to open and close the valves in the main valve block for boom and slew movements. So that is the reason that the boom doesn't do anything when the pilot controls are moved without the engine running.
@ngnmech yeah, that's what I was looking at when dude asked if it was dual or single pumps, then got to thinking, usually when someone is talking dual pumps, they mean 2 high pressure, separate system pumps. So I back pedaled and said single pump. But then I got to thinking it technically is 2 pump out let's, but one is low pressure, then I didn't know if low pressure pilot side was it's own pump or just a bleed valve in the pump . Then I felt like I didn't know what I was talking about and was hoping someone who could explain it correctly would comment on it and straighten all of us out. So thank you for being the guy that can explain things better then me.
The oil dipstick is on the other side of the engine it's got two planes one too put oil in and one to check it
How jerky are the controls? Im looking at buying one at auction and keep reading they are very hard to operate, did you have to change something on the controls
One guy commented here about putting small compression springs under the control base. I was going to grab some the other day and try it, but ive been crazy busy.
Another guy said that he turned down the relief valve, but im not sure about doing that, usually when you reduce operating pressures, you do lose a bit of power.
If you run two controls at one time like bucket, and swing or w.e its really not that bad.
But yes. jerky jerky. The pilot controls are worse. I ran a agt 12 that was the center controls and it was way way smoother to operate.
@@backwoodscustoms Damn maybe I should've bought ones with center controls. thought pilot would be better, oh well I'm sure I can make something work to modify it better
@@flo383run the machine at 1/4 throttle max and it's not jerky
My ls15r is super jerky. The relief valves were not set right as well as loose slew motor. It's still jerky
Only things I've found issues with is electrical related. All hardware was tight, so far... As far as jerking, I've found that if I just dig without thinking about it and full stick it, it's acceptable. Running 2 functions at once reduces the pressure in the charge lines and make it feel smoother, when trying to do fine adjustments, it's like a coked up squirrel.
try adding compression springs on the actuator buttons under the piloy control sticks, 9/16" x 1 3/4" cut in half
Nice
what are you? some sort of a philosifizer?
yt really wanted me to reply to your comment.
@backwoodscustoms I pay UA-cam to make me feel important. This video made me spend last week mounting my woods 1055 backhoe to our old ford 8000, now to dig out a tree line.
@dingakasteve lol. Guess the women are right, we have to many toys and they just get more expensive.
Yes it's the oil it helps to break in the motor you should have put 4 hours on that motor before you change it out
There's no way I'd run that oil. It had more water like properties than oil. I know break in oil has a higher zinc content but that oil didn't seem like it was going to do any good for the engine.
I've learned if you don't throttle it up all the way, it's not as jerky
Yeah, the only time I e wound er out is when I'm just tracking around. I do think it's wearing in with more work and becoming 'manageable' not great but usable
My agt QK16R doesnt even have a cast iron counter weight its just thin sheet metal.😅 These things are literally junk. But it still beats a shovel.
They are sure not a big hoe that's for sure, but if you've seen a couple of my other videos, you'll see I'm no stranger to a shovel, and I hope this is going to work.
The 15 is a 1.5 ton machine, whereas the 12 series is a 1 ton machine. The beginning letters designates configuration - especially of the controls.
There were 40+ at the auction, there really wasn't much difference unless you were going from one to the other, with a tape measure. I had a list going and after about 10, there really seemed to be no rhyme nor reason to it. I can get behind the 1.2-1.5 ton numbers but there's still not thY much difference.
@@backwoodscustoms -- There are numerous differences - three different engines available, some have enclosed cabs, different access panels, hand and foot controls located differently, some have hydraulic filter, and/or more than one hydraulic pump, etc. Some of them are also a different "Brand", and of course, advertised retail prices are an indicator of which has "more". I looked at them at three different auctions and on the internet for more than a year before deciding.
I just recently bought the MX15R on marketplace for less than the cheapest one at auction (with 0.4 hours) because the guy was going through a divorce.
@Rattlerjake1 divorce sales suck for that guy but get a few people some screaming deals.
I just wish the manufacturer made a list and comprehensive description of what means what or what options that machine has.
@@backwoodscustoms - I have yet to find an owner's manual that explains all controls, maintenance, etc.
If you don’t have a lot of money it’s better than nothing, I’m looking to get one as I’m physically exhausted from land work no machines.
Oh yeah for sure. $5k is plenty cheap enough for what you get. Ive got around 20 hours on it now and if they were paying jobs, id probably had made most of the money back.
I always here how jurky these machines are. First off don't run at full throttle. Then they wount to complain about how these cheap Chinese machines are. If you have 30,000 to what ever amount of money to spend on name brand. Dont buy cheap Chinese mini. Not all of us can afford a 20,000 or more machines. If you can't do repairs on cheap Chinese mini excavator dont buy one. I have been playing for about over 3 years now.