Another day, another great flowstate divers video. One thing I would add is the reasoning behind having the primary light in your left hand rather than your right is to avoid blinding your teammate in an OOG scenario. It also leaves the right hand free and clear for primary donation.
I keep it on the right side, but thats bcs I have integrated small canister on the light. Argument for the left side was due to the cable routing when you have the canister. Also in tec diving this keep my important left hand free for operating BC. Yes, in cave diving it means you might need to switch hands when doing reel work or similar, but in my case its as simple as taking it with left hand and moving it over, when you are free from long canister cables. More streamlined, less complexity, less snagging hazards, more freedom. Its Argolamp 2.0 pro
@@flowstatedivers Online store! Just sell some gear, like Flow State stickers for tanks, tshirts, various dive equipment pieces that you think is best, stuff like that.
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT. Another great video! Thank you for pointing out taking battery life into consideration for dive planning. It's something that has not occurred to me. This is a great series and I am thankful for all the nuggets of knowledge your team is sharing with us. Thank you FlowState Divers!
I was doing all that except using the bungee on my can light to hold backup flashlight. Always learn something from you guys that seems so simple but never thought of it yet, thanks!
Well I know there are those out there that have nothing good to say but for me Another great video, I like how it's straight to the point no b.s. You guys are awesome thanks for your knowledge, everything you put out is more tools in the box thank you!
Straight to the point informative, educational, no bs! And the quality exceptional as always! Cannot thank you guys enough for doing these videos! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! 🤩
Thanks, we use and trust many different brands so it's hard to make any statements on this. You wont go wrong with any recently (within the past ~5 years) produced lights
I'm no expert, but the first light I ever used was an orcatorch D530 supplied by my DM. Loved it so much I instantly went out and bought one for myself. I've heard nothing but glowing reviews, personally
Another excellent video where my only complaint is you don't make them earlier. I'm recently thinking whether to buy some new lights and would like to ask a LOT of questions after video today: 1) I saw multiple sources on the internet claiming that button-based switches tend to fail after many dives or become in-operable at depth. However many new emerging brands nowadays (like the one you show on this video) only produce button-based switches and very few ones use eg. lever type like Halcyon Focus's, despite I don't understand as they should be mechanistically simple to manufacture. May I ask if you find button-based switches having these sort of problems? 2) Thanks for introducing a new utility of small-sized backups! I'm curious that, you mention we could clip the single ender of backup to existing bungees on our wrist; but in this case, why don't people just attach a separate wrist band to the backup, which is ubiquitous in recreational diving but is always discouraged in virtually all tech schools? Many refer the problem of entanglement, and in such case, a separate wristband to the backup shall be better cus you cut it and you only lose the light, not the compass/your perdix? 3) I saw you using OrcaTorch for today's video. I find its reception being polarised, and in real life I know people saying "best torch on market this year" and "don't but this". I'm curious in your user experience?
Thank you for your comment. While concerns with push buttons were valid a decade ago, technology has advanced significantly, and their reliability has greatly improved. We haven't encountered any issues with this type of light. It's essential to purchase from a reputable brand and avoid cutting costs, as you typically get what you pay for with this kind of hardware. The reason to avoid using lanyards (wrist straps) is that they aren't intuitive to clip off. A simple boltsnap with a piece of rope or zip tie is more practical, allowing you to store the light clipped to your harness when not in use and deploy it easily, rather than having to retrieve it from your pocket, for example. The concern about entanglement is too weak in our opinion, as you can quickly address any tangling with your other hand. Instead of cutting anything off, you can simply unclip the light and untangle it. For technical diving, it's recommended to use a primary light with a Goodman handle. If you need to deploy your backup, you can use the bungee on the primary light to secure the backup, so it's not directly attached to you. We've found Orchatorch to be reliable and have used it successfully on various type of dives, including caves. There are plenty of good brands and products available out there!
I find the differences on specs for back-up lights between different accrediting agencies interesting. Perhaps it has something to do with their roots and primary diving environments.
Zip ties become more brittle in cold water, so in that case i would advice against using them for longterm attachment of boltsnaps to your gear. The water in the video doesn’t look super cold though 😛
While it's true that standard nylon cable ties can become more brittle in cold temperatures due to slowed molecular motion and increased stress concentration, this isn't the whole story. High-quality cable ties, like those made by Nike Plastics, undergo a specialized manufacturing process that includes a 'water boiling' step. This process significantly enhances their toughness, allowing them to withstand temperatures as low as -25°C, or even lower. This makes them exceptionally durable, even in cold conditions so not all zip ties are equal... be sure to use the right one
I'd really advocate for rigging using line and not zipties. Zipties weather and break when (perhaps unintentionally) twisted. Line doesn't break - but can still be cut. I'm surprised I didn't know about the bungee on the goodman handle. I'll see if I can rig that up on mine. (I made my first goodman handle primary light out of two twist lights, zipties, some plastic sheets from a cutting board and a a strip of aluminium).
This is a common misconception among many divers that zip ties are not suitable for the job. We held the same belief until we began using them extensively and proved otherwise. A high-grade, good-quality (heat-treated) cable tie can withstand extreme temperatures down to -25°C and is virtually indestructible when used correctly in diving. I'm not saying everyone should use them, but there are far fewer downsides than what you're emphasizing here. Have you tested them over a long period of time?
@@harambeexpressbeing able to break a zip tie by twisting it may be an advantage, and you cannot do the same with a line. On the other hand I cannot really imagine unintentionally twisting a zipline so much that it breaks.. but after all it's just about personal preference I guess..
Interesting. Use of double-ender like shown in a video (stowing the primary light on a D ring with a double-ender when both gates of it are already occupied with a bungee) would seem to cause some issues, when, for example, the bungee would come out while trying to clip onto the d ring. Permanent bolt-snap and a separate double-ender for me 🙈
I have never had a problem like that. When you grab the double-ender with your hand in order to attach it to your D ring, your hand keeps the bungee in tension.
When fitted, the double ender also has the opening upwards, so the bungee doesn't come out when the gate is opened as the weight of the light pulls the bungee into the DE, rather than out of it.
@@flowstatedivers Also, if it gets tangled, you can break it by twisting, but this method will not work with rope. It saved me once when I got caught in a pressure gauge hose.
Thanks for your interest. While there are many genuine resources available online, given that you are an instructor, I suggest obtaining a syllabus from a DIR training agency such as UTD, GUE, or ISE and reviewing it thoroughly. Eventually crossing over to one of the above would be your ultimate goal if you want to understand and teach diving on a next level.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
🚀 Reinforce your understanding. 🚀
x.halocrom.com/4lUTdiW2WM
ok I absolutely NEED a FlowState mask strap!!
Another day, another great flowstate divers video.
One thing I would add is the reasoning behind having the primary light in your left hand rather than your right is to avoid blinding your teammate in an OOG scenario. It also leaves the right hand free and clear for primary donation.
Make sense, thanks for bringing it up
I keep it on the right side, but thats bcs I have integrated small canister on the light. Argument for the left side was due to the cable routing when you have the canister.
Also in tec diving this keep my important left hand free for operating BC. Yes, in cave diving it means you might need to switch hands when doing reel work or similar, but in my case its as simple as taking it with left hand and moving it over, when you are free from long canister cables. More streamlined, less complexity, less snagging hazards, more freedom.
Its Argolamp 2.0 pro
Thanks for the tips. Very informative as usual!
Best video series on UA-cam 💯 You guys need a store. Flow state is dope
@scubadivingadventures1 thanks :) What store are you thinking about?
@@flowstatedivers Online store! Just sell some gear, like Flow State stickers for tanks, tshirts, various dive equipment pieces that you think is best, stuff like that.
@@flowstatedivers Merchandise like tank stickers, tank bands, maybe equipment and lights that you think is best, etc
one of the best videos on dive lights
항상 도움되는 영상 고맙습니다
This is GOLD!
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT. Another great video! Thank you for pointing out taking battery life into consideration for dive planning. It's something that has not occurred to me.
This is a great series and I am thankful for all the nuggets of knowledge your team is sharing with us. Thank you FlowState Divers!
Thanks for tuning in!
Attaching a bungee to your wetsuit sleeve is a great idea! Thanks for the tip, guys.
We use elastic hair ties ;)
@@flowstatedivers Why not 🙂
I was doing all that except using the bungee on my can light to hold backup flashlight. Always learn something from you guys that seems so simple but never thought of it yet, thanks!
Well done, very good job with equipment, all things is important
And thanks for the tip to attach the secondary light to the bungee of the compass or diving computer. Very useful
Glad it was helpful!
yep i learned this the hard way once, when I lost a 500$ torch due to "... i can hold it in my hand, why attach it to something?... pff.."
Well I know there are those out there that have nothing good to say but for me Another great video, I like how it's straight to the point no b.s. You guys are awesome thanks for your knowledge, everything you put out is more tools in the box thank you!
Thanks a lot! Yeah there are an increasing number of people that feels necessary to correct what we do but hey, that's life
Straight to the point informative, educational, no bs! And the quality exceptional as always! Cannot thank you guys enough for doing these videos! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! 🤩
Thanks for watching!
You are the best!! Keep churning out high quality content. I’m spreading you guys’ info everywhere I can, including recommending you on my channel too
Another great video!
Awesome video guys, you the best
Thanks so much
What a great video!! I absolutely love that trick on how to rig a primary, makes total sense
Glad you enjoyed it!
Santi Elite+ with a red side!!!❤❤That is my exact suit as well
@@miks8 good choice 👏
Hi, great video. Which brad of lights are you preferred?
Thanks, we use and trust many different brands so it's hard to make any statements on this. You wont go wrong with any recently (within the past ~5 years) produced lights
Great video! Could you also do a video on cordless primary lights? Also, how do you like these Orcatorches so far? Thanks!
I'm no expert, but the first light I ever used was an orcatorch D530 supplied by my DM. Loved it so much I instantly went out and bought one for myself. I've heard nothing but glowing reviews, personally
Another excellent video where my only complaint is you don't make them earlier.
I'm recently thinking whether to buy some new lights and would like to ask a LOT of questions after video today:
1) I saw multiple sources on the internet claiming that button-based switches tend to fail after many dives or become in-operable at depth. However many new emerging brands nowadays (like the one you show on this video) only produce button-based switches and very few ones use eg. lever type like Halcyon Focus's, despite I don't understand as they should be mechanistically simple to manufacture. May I ask if you find button-based switches having these sort of problems?
2) Thanks for introducing a new utility of small-sized backups! I'm curious that, you mention we could clip the single ender of backup to existing bungees on our wrist; but in this case, why don't people just attach a separate wrist band to the backup, which is ubiquitous in recreational diving but is always discouraged in virtually all tech schools? Many refer the problem of entanglement, and in such case, a separate wristband to the backup shall be better cus you cut it and you only lose the light, not the compass/your perdix?
3) I saw you using OrcaTorch for today's video. I find its reception being polarised, and in real life I know people saying "best torch on market this year" and "don't but this". I'm curious in your user experience?
forgot to say at the end, thanks in advance for any help! really excellent videos.
Thank you for your comment. While concerns with push buttons were valid a decade ago, technology has advanced significantly, and their reliability has greatly improved. We haven't encountered any issues with this type of light. It's essential to purchase from a reputable brand and avoid cutting costs, as you typically get what you pay for with this kind of hardware.
The reason to avoid using lanyards (wrist straps) is that they aren't intuitive to clip off. A simple boltsnap with a piece of rope or zip tie is more practical, allowing you to store the light clipped to your harness when not in use and deploy it easily, rather than having to retrieve it from your pocket, for example. The concern about entanglement is too weak in our opinion, as you can quickly address any tangling with your other hand. Instead of cutting anything off, you can simply unclip the light and untangle it.
For technical diving, it's recommended to use a primary light with a Goodman handle. If you need to deploy your backup, you can use the bungee on the primary light to secure the backup, so it's not directly attached to you.
We've found Orchatorch to be reliable and have used it successfully on various type of dives, including caves. There are plenty of good brands and products available out there!
What thickness bungee chords are you using for both the torch itself and also the goodman handle?
We don't use bungee on the backup lights, the one we use on the primary should either be 6 but preferably 8mm thick.
I find the differences on specs for back-up lights between different accrediting agencies interesting. Perhaps it has something to do with their roots and primary diving environments.
Zip ties become more brittle in cold water, so in that case i would advice against using them for longterm attachment of boltsnaps to your gear.
The water in the video doesn’t look super cold though 😛
Can you define cold?
@@flowstatedivers Half of the year, the water is around 2-3c here.
While it's true that standard nylon cable ties can become more brittle in cold temperatures due to slowed molecular motion and increased stress concentration, this isn't the whole story.
High-quality cable ties, like those made by Nike Plastics, undergo a specialized manufacturing process that includes a 'water boiling' step. This process significantly enhances their toughness, allowing them to withstand temperatures as low as -25°C, or even lower. This makes them exceptionally durable, even in cold conditions so not all zip ties are equal... be sure to use the right one
@@flowstatedivers thats a fair point, i didn’t know that was a thing actually.
amazing video
Thanks!
I'd really advocate for rigging using line and not zipties. Zipties weather and break when (perhaps unintentionally) twisted. Line doesn't break - but can still be cut.
I'm surprised I didn't know about the bungee on the goodman handle. I'll see if I can rig that up on mine.
(I made my first goodman handle primary light out of two twist lights, zipties, some plastic sheets from a cutting board and a a strip of aluminium).
It's also a skill that can be applied to many different items - not least the long hose and SPG.
This is a common misconception among many divers that zip ties are not suitable for the job. We held the same belief until we began using them extensively and proved otherwise. A high-grade, good-quality (heat-treated) cable tie can withstand extreme temperatures down to -25°C and is virtually indestructible when used correctly in diving. I'm not saying everyone should use them, but there are far fewer downsides than what you're emphasizing here. Have you tested them over a long period of time?
@@harambeexpressbeing able to break a zip tie by twisting it may be an advantage, and you cannot do the same with a line. On the other hand I cannot really imagine unintentionally twisting a zipline so much that it breaks.. but after all it's just about personal preference I guess..
Interesting. Use of double-ender like shown in a video (stowing the primary light on a D ring with a double-ender when both gates of it are already occupied with a bungee) would seem to cause some issues, when, for example, the bungee would come out while trying to clip onto the d ring. Permanent bolt-snap and a separate double-ender for me 🙈
I suggest trying it before forming a strong opinion on this.
I have never had a problem like that. When you grab the double-ender with your hand in order to attach it to your D ring, your hand keeps the bungee in tension.
@@flowstatedivers no strong opinions :)
@@elias.jorgensen makes sense 👌
When fitted, the double ender also has the opening upwards, so the bungee doesn't come out when the gate is opened as the weight of the light pulls the bungee into the DE, rather than out of it.
What do you think about the argument that the plastic of the zip tie will get brittle faster then using rope?
@@fisioterapeutafranciscotro2761 it takes 10 seconds to change a cable tie once in a while. Maybe every 50 dives or so
@@flowstatedivers Also, if it gets tangled, you can break it by twisting, but this method will not work with rope. It saved me once when I got caught in a pressure gauge hose.
@@flowstatedivers true. It’s still a debate, but I never heard of anyone loosing equipment due to cable tie 🤷🏽♂️
Tropical warm water divers need light to see the true colour of coral and nudibranch.
Good point!
there can I find more information about DIR ay of diving? I`m scuba instructor and looking for better ways to teach
Thanks for your interest. While there are many genuine resources available online, given that you are an instructor, I suggest obtaining a syllabus from a DIR training agency such as UTD, GUE, or ISE and reviewing it thoroughly. Eventually crossing over to one of the above would be your ultimate goal if you want to understand and teach diving on a next level.
Can you pelase link me your light and handle?