Something I always try is to take a torx bit, cant be the cheapest one, of appropiate size and hammer it in with appropiate force. Many times this works because the hammering loosens the bolt, and the torx bit cuts into it, making it's own grooves and then you can turn it.
Good video. I especially like that you advised to disconnect the battery to protect the ECU. This really is the avenue of last resort where the pins seize and the hex has been rounded out. May I share something I've learnt with these pins over the years. If the hex is still good don't just grab the first allen key in your toolbox and start heaving on it risking rounding it out. If your garage is like mine you'll have gathered more than a few 5 or 6mm allen keys. The size variation between them can be considerable especially with cheap Chinese made toolsets. Get your digital caliper out and measure each allen key. Find the biggest of the bunch, it''l be much tighter in the hex and you'll have a much better chance of it breaking the pin free. Another little tip - before heaving on it to undo it, go the other way, yes, to tighten it. Sometimes it's all it needs to crack it free a little. Oh and spray some penetrating fluid on it a couple of hours before starting. Not WD40, a proper penetrant such as Plus Gas or Penetrene or your own mix of acetone and ATF a combo that many car and motorcycle restorers swear by.
Another option is to use a torx bit that is just a size larger, tap it in until it full seats then use a impact driver to remove it. I've done a few nearly rounded out allen bolts that way.
That works really well for a single 'Break' free situation where a socket cap bolt is simply done up tight....but these pins are not holding on via the thread... its the shaft of the pin thats corroded into the old dead pads.... and in these situations, even a hammered in Torx bit will eventually round out the bolt... but what ever works aye.. lol.
I made up Allen key fitting out of old 6 mm with 3/8 or 1/2 drive when they were worn out. I grind the hex to about 5.1mm perfect fit and never get a problem. Even new pin and Allen key is a sloppy fit, then 1st time you really swing on them they ream out. Got some ever so slightly bigger ones too when my mates have messed their's up
Yes the fun stuff . My boy learned how to clean the bikes chain yesterday after watching you video , so then we went out side and went through the steps and cleaned the chain together . It helped him to see how to do it and why from Del then working on it him self . thanks mate
Thanks buddy, thats so kind, it makes me really proud and honoured to be able to inspire the next generation... tell him i said Hi, take care guys.. Del.
Thank you for this advice. I’m going to remove the pins from my calipers now, straight away, while they are fairly new, and apply anti-seize as a preventative.
Last september i had this at MOT time on my trusty vfr.Tried drilling and easy-outing.Massive failure.£45 e-bay caliper sorted it eventually. I wish i had a welder handy then though i must admit this never occured to me. Great stuff as ever,thanks muchly :)
I've had this issue a few times as I have a few older bikes, latest one was on my 900rr on the front calliper. Used an old torx bit and a hammer, have stainless in now much better than the cheap ones that were in there! I keep a small supply of torx and spline bits just for moments like this. Never thought about welding it, will be something to think about next time! Keep em coming Del!
I am having this problem with a front pin. Thanks for this, very helpful. Also was very happy to see a license plate on your wall from my hometown of Cheyenne, Wyoming. Great channel.
Great vid! I have found that the anti-rattle clips in the caliper act as springs to put a side load on the caliper pins as they push the pads against the pins. This acts "like" a split washer to some degree. So I totally agree, you don't need thread locker or to lean on it. Just snug the caliper pins up and it's fine. And the copper slip / never-seize is worth the effort. It will make life much easier later. Cheers! Mike
This video gives me a great appreciation for Brembo calipers; I have them on all my bikes now. Those caliper pins are friction fit and bang easily in and out with a hammer. no threads no seizing :)
Yeah, Brembo do some thinking aye, calipers built to be maintained, these clunky ols Triumph ones are from the arc, they were using this design in the 1980's... you'd have thought they would have moved on by now aye?!
just goes to show where budget cuts for R&D are. I like what I am seeing with motorcycle manufacturers on modern bikes just outsourcing this stuff to companies that specialize in it, like Brembo, Nissin, etc.
Thanks for your advice. In the end I got my pad pin pub grub screw out with a good right fitting screwdriver which had a hex on the grip. Ring spanner over the shaft to fit the hex so I could push hard with the screwdriver and turn with the spanner. Sorted thanks again.
OK, so I got stuck brake pins and the hex key was almost able to spin in the sockets. First thing I tried was to use an expensive Park Tool hex key, but that didn't work out. This is a success story - hope it will help some desperate soul ;) First I used lots and lots of WD40 over the span of a few days, then an impact driver (the one you use with a hammer, not the battery-powered one) which didn't seem to do anything. The last thing was to use a breaker bar together with the hex bit from the impact driver set - those bits are made of hardened steel and I think are also a little bigger than regular ones. While pressing the tool hard against the socket of the pin, I turned the breaker bar veeeery slowly counterclockwise and - guess what: both the stuck pins popped and I was able to remove them and dance a celebratory morris dance knocking stuff off shelves in the garage :)))
Just a little tip with the welding, try and keep the feed lead as straight as possible. This will help eliminate spattering and promote a consistent weld, even if you're just tacking.
Great tutorial Del.Nice one!These skills are redundant at the moment,because most companies earn more by selling you a new part,as opposed to selling the skills of an "engineer"who can sort your "broken stud","cross threaded sparkplug",siezed swinging arm,using "easy outs "blah blah blah. I left the trade in early 90s,because,most of the "older"guys were in my opinion,just jobsworths fitters,or technicians,as they liked to call themselves.Great video!.
A man after my own heart buddy, I had exactly the same experience... left the bike trade in 2006 for the same reasons... we employed a young lad of 21 with a degree in 'motorcycle technology' and yet watching weild a hacksaw was like watching a 4yr old playing with his 'my first tool set' ... honestly , clumsy wasn't the word, nice lad, but he couldn't think he way out of the toilet...! But you're right, he had the skills needed for modern motorcycle main dealerships, which is a shame ! Oh, I feel old sometimes lol ...
On your point,my Vivaro van had a tyre blowout in about FEb/March this year,and so i took it to a local tyre fitter.I decided to watch as the young man proceeded to jack up my van under the sill,as it started to kink.I then said to the nice young man that you have not found the jacking point on a 2 tonne van,so i had to show him.I am glad i was there to police him.His certificate of competence was on the wall, as i paid 400 quid for 4 new tyres.All 4 hub bosses were corroded,no scratchbrush,and no coppergrease was used! Im a bit younger than you Del,but i SMH! Yo aint old Del,your knowledgable,and knowledge is power.ATB.
I've had exactly the same experience buddy... went to a local tyre fitter to fit some performance tyres to my Honda Civic, I watched a lad of no more than 18, who was apparantly a 'qualified tyre fitter' attempt to lever a bone dry tyre bead on to a new rim... he tore a chunk out of the rubber bead about 1/2" round, pulled it out with his fingers to look at it, it was still attached by a tiny thread, so he put it back in place, patted it in the hole it came from, then did a swift look left & right to see if anyone had seen him... whereupon he saw me watching! And then, believe it or not, he actually proceeded to wope some tyre grease over it right in front of me - I stopped him and called his boss out of the office, whereupon he argued he had greased it first and the damage was already there! As you can imagine, I went f*king mental! Took my rims and tyres and left, and worst of all, the manager actually got confrontational with me, never trust these people again!
Having had this problem before, I've had good luck with grinding a sharp graduated tapper into a sized up hex "allen" socket then rapping it in with a hammer. Trimming off the tip to get the perfect depth of the modified socket is the key here. I save all my bitched up tools in a separate drawer. These tools are my secret stash for emergency mods! I do like your method more, more skill and who doesn't want to light off the welder to fix a problem. Thanks for your great lessons
Thank you Scott, I really like that solution, and I'm gonna use it... can't always use the welder with the heat involved, and yeah I have a drawer full of cannablised tools, it's my 'get out of jail free' drawer !
Just a question re torque. There are two types: Lubricated and dry. The same bolt will have different torque values. The Triumph manual warns "never lubricate a thread unless instructed to do so". The rationale is that the lubricant reduces the friction and results in an over tightened condition and a possible fixing failure. For the brakes, lube is called out on the caliper pins. For the rear wheel spindle, there is no lube callout for the 85 Nm torque. Future jobs might be better if you didn't lube the end of the spindle. This information comes from Service Manual T3859909-01 issue 4, 10.2004. I really enjoy your videos. So superior to the manual. I currently have a stuck caliper pin. I'll try the epoxy or the torx bit fix rec by David L. I am a degreed manufacturing engineer, so have background in the fastener field.
Another great video, but no welder here, and I won't waste my time with JB Weld. I got my pin out with an EZ Out, or screw extractor. I used the biggest one possible, was able to drill down 11mm and got really good purchase. A little patience, and the job was done. Thanks Del and Penny!
Nice one John, always love to hear of great little ways to get round this sort of thing... you can also have success , if it happens again, by hammering an over-sized torx bit in to the end, I did that with this and it didn't work, so I had to resort to the welder, but hey, we do whatever works aye!
Very very good tip that i am sure could be used in many other situations. Would have never thought of that in a million years! Thank you! Great info on the battery and welding mess! wouldn't think of that either!
Thanks buddy, we do them as they come along ! We have a lot of different directions now, simple skills, ride videos, and the project, all in the aim of keeping everyone entertained with something different ... cheers, Del
Thank you for another great tip and video Del. Nice to know if one is ever in a mess, chances are the fix will be on your channel no doubt. God bless you fella!
a good save!! i had this on rottweiller but no welder so i took the caliper off ground off the pads (was fitting new ones) heated the pin and mole gripped it...luckily it worked...bloomin triumph rear calipers !!! cheers budsky.. (thought i would go budsky , had a band member once who said it all the time i really wanted to poke him in the orbit , i sacked him instead!!)
Ha ha... Orbit AND THEN sack... even better..! Cheers me dear, Oh and early model Kawasaki GPz's used the same lame caliper too... ! says it all aye.lol
Good one Del I was hoping you would say weld something to it. I have already replaced with stainless after a similar incident on the from ones . I now routinely just give them a few turns in / out a few times a year.
Good plan my friend, as I said a while back in all of the caliper cleaning videos, routine cleaning will make your brakes last a lifetime... once you've got the stainless pins in, you can stick them in an electric drill to polish them in the future and keep the pads sliding freely!
Hang on , this is a repeat ! I'm sure I saw this 4 years ago ! 😊.. ha.. Hey brother it just came up in suggestions so I thought I would have a nostalgia trip ... lovely jubbly 👍🏻☮❤
Blimey, doing the rounds again aye brother, well it's all good for refresher if nothing else, it's either that or the YT gods know there's a cold winter coming!!
Great tutorial Del. This is how I met you by the way...searching on UA-cam because my caliper pin was seized. A while before this video unfortunately. Tried just about everything, never thought of a welder. Too much Monkey Boy ingenuity and I ended up buying a new caliper. Would have paid for half a new welder. Keep up the great work. I love watching.
Hey Shannon, Thank you for you lovely message, and for sticking with us all this time... we really appreciate the kind support.. we all learn as we go along aye.. as long as a thing done wrong teaches us how to do it right.. then it still has value wouldn't you say..!!
Del, know I'm always commenting but... these tips can be so useful to even someone who isn't a biker, it's like you said about 'mechanic'... use common sense, deduction, and (something you didn't say)...modify tips like this you've picked up from elsewhere, and make em work! Cheers
Thanks mate, just trying to buck against the trend of us all becoming paying customers, when we should be doers and fixers! None of what we produce in video is ever that taxing, most of it just common sense maintenance... and who can't do that with a little bit of thought ?!
Haha, so, I got the same monocast problem on a 85 v65 honda sabre. Only problem is that the pins don't even have a allen key slot. They're just solid on both sides. This is the only video showing up for me too lol.
You could cut the bolt head with a die grinder, to make a slot like a flat head screwdriver, then try to turn it. It will not hurt the caliper if you cut a SMALL, grove in the caliper, while cutting the bolt head, at a very small amount.
Hey Del surely removing the Caliper from the disc and using a pair of small vise grips on the smooth section of the pin between the pads would allow you to gradually turn it out? Obviously with the hydraulic line still attached.
another option can be using a bolt extractor, given there is enough left to grab and not damage the inside thread. worked on my ST1100. Came here to find about stuck calipers :-0 , so you're saying soapy water? i recall pertrol being used back in the day?
Another excellent video Delboy. If no welding equipment or J,B weld, could you cut a line into it if there is enough head showing for a large screwdriver?????
Hi buddy, you can only any normal socket cap but this is screwed in flush with the surface, so that would damage the caliper... but always good to try anything if you have to...
Hi ya watched ya blog on getting brake pad bolts out of the triumph I two had trouble with america took cailper off put in vice drilled into bolt then wacked a Allen bit into then a socket and ay presto I got them out today thank God ordered to stainless steel ones great vids keep them coming
I saw a motor mechanic with the same problem and he just hammered it out with a hardened screw drive. The method he used was to hammer a V in one side of the head of the alan key top then swap to a blunt screw driver and hammer that in the direction to loosen it. I saw him remove 4 stuck recessed alan key heads in about 3 min.
This is the problem I have on my NC750XDE parking brake pins. Of course I don't have a welder. Unfortunately they seem to have been over torqued so the heads have rounded, but because the parking brake shouldn't wear much they don't usually get changed either. I know that once I succeed in removing them they will need replacement so I searched but though you can get the pads because they fit other calipers too, only Honda seem to make pad pins for these. Alas Honda also put thread lock on the whole thread, all 6mm of it! I have tried drilling deeper and using some amtech screw extractors, but I can't get it to turn the pin using a standard 6" tapping wrench. Then again I also have the challenge of trying to hold the caliper because my pad pins are on the inside of the caliper. I also tried wd-40, break cleaner and engine degreaser to try to free the threads but to no avail. I also tried heating it with a heat gun but I was scared to go too hot so that didn't help either. By the way I already changed the seals and also fitted stainless pad pins and pistons on the front and rear hydraulic brakes because they were badly corroded, which your videos helped me have the confidence to do thank you. I may have to try the epoxy and disposable allen key trick, though I still think it needs more heat. To be seen. Ironically these calipers are over £100 second hand, being rare, and often come from abroad with high postal charges, so I hope I can get this sorted... Thanks for your videos. Hope Penny's ok too.
Sorry to hear you're having this trouble.. have you tried tapping a torx bit into the rounded alun key hole.. usually works to get a bite in it, and if it has threadlock in there, then heat will help to not only melt the glue...but also expand the casting slightly and help release the screw !! Thanks for your feedback too, and good luck with your task mate.
I would usually try to use an easy out( not sure if you have those over there) but failing that it's time for the drill . But welding it sounds a lot easier. Never would have thought of that . Your a genius del. Cheers 4 sharing the knowledge again. ( Hope the gopro was alright)
Ha ha yeah, made of granite those things... and yeah we have Easyouts here, little reverse cone twist tool...and great if you cna drill down straight...if you drift off to one side, its only goes downhill from there aye.. Good to hear from you always buddy.
Yeah, a square shanked (or screw style) easy out, with a little heat would have been my first try, but great solution you brought to the table too. Great tip!
When a piston got stuck in a caliper I would pour boiling hot water over it, which would allow me to wind it back in. Would this work for this method seeing as they are 2 different metals?
Not usualy, obviously its worth trying anything when you're stuck, you never know your luck... but the tiny area of alloy that you are trying to expand away from that pin is not enough to make a differance...with the piston, its huge by comparison...and also the piston wont be stuck by much more than a little dirt.. the pins have the thread, AND the length of the pin caked in road crud.... but like i said. try anyhting aye.. what ever works..! lol
Great stuff as always Del !! On my old ZZR600 they were not threaded, just held in with split pins... Still an absolute bugger to get out though...and always leaned them using the electric drill method :-)
TBH mate, those split pin ones are the best, however, stuck they get, you can drift them out from the other side... then bung them in the drill like you do... the screw in ones are a pain in the arse...!
I normally find my Wera allen keys work (the ends are almost like Torx profile also you can put a power bar on them and lean on them, yes they bend but don't snap and straiten themselves up after.) If not them I resort to the Torx and impact driver method
Always avoid impact drivers on calipers, you end up hitting for too long, these pins are not tight, and then break with a crack which many fasteners do, they are tight all the way out , as you saw... as even when the thread was free, the pins still hung on to the pad inside the caliper, so the impact driver is a bit redundant...
Hi Del, why didn't you try to use an extractor bit - I had the same nasty experience but with the caliper bolt - tried some other options before like hammering big ass screwdriver and almost breaking my wrists trying to undo it, tried to grind the head to fit 12mm spanner - broke two spanners, heating it - nothing helped... After 4 hours I remembered I have bought a set of extractors a while ago, so it took me just five minutes to get it out... Since then I worship them and frankly they never let me down (0h, did I mentioned I drive a Honda :))
I think you mean an 'Easy Out', which I have got a set, but they need at least 1/2" deep hole to get a good 'bite', and this socket cap is barely 4mm deep, so it wouldn't get enough purchase, maybe I should have said this... I could have drilled in to it, but chose this method instead !
+Moonfleet41 it's possible - never got more than 5-6mm depth - yeah, you need few tries to make it catch... I guess I can do it because I don't have welding equipment and it's the last option for me... I am glad I have learned another trick from you - sure I will use it some day when I got mig welder - thank you!
You also might have decent luck if you pull the caliper off completely, pads and all, put it in a vice, then try backing it out by gripping on the unthreaded part of the stripped faster between the pads with some locking pliers(vice grips) or something. You'd have to rebleed of course, but even if vice grips don't work you've got easier access to a get at it with a welder or whatever next step you decide to go with.
+Moonfleet41 you can compress the piston/s to get max room, and then fit the vice grips in there, thickest ones you can. They make tiny ones, super thin, sorta thin, all the way as fat as you wanna go. Honestly seem to get more use out of my needle nose size ones than the big honkers. This is of course off topic of your video which is welding onto the bolt to get it out(well done btw), just saying it in case someone else finds this vid searching for your issue and reads comments for other stuff to try out before welding :p
P- Where was this video a few months back? Haha, had this issue with the triumph trophy caliper. I was rapidly running out of options, so with a used caliper on my watch list I decided to 'gently' ;) tap an oversized security torx bit in. Worked beautifully!
i had a spark plug snap in my head. spun the engine over to blow out the core then whacked a torx bit into the hole with a massive hammer! took a 1/2" long arm to shift it
Thats a good method, usually works on regular fasteners....but even that can strip out when they are proper seized on place... also its not too safe hammering anything on a brake caliper, they're pretty fragile cast ally.
Really struggling with the brake pipe hose bolt seized solid , any ideas how to shift it. 2015 tiger explorer rear .tried plus gas , heat, wrench. socket.. now started to round off.. can you help..please😤
EZY outs may work they have a drill bit then a splined driver you drive in too drill hole cost a shit load so I lend one works a treat I also think the tap helps break the lock
A great series of videos, really well thought out and filmed. I'm stuck however as the grub screw covering the brake pin head on my Thunderbird rear caliper is stuck. I'm in danger of chewing out the slot and not sure how to proceed. Can I use an impact driver?
Hi Chris, An impact driver would be good as long as you use a snug fitting bit, otherwise you could maybe try to centre punch it to get it moving.. !! Good luck with it buddy, hope it helps..
Hi Del. I have this issue (Honda Firestorm) but luckily the calipers are 2 part ones. I've split the jammed up one - any suggestions please on how to get the brake caliper pin out - it's still mightily stuck and I'm wary of forcing it. Currently have it in a vice and trying to unscrew the caliper body from it, but no joy!! Cheers.
If you have a good solid purchase on the pin now, then heat the caliper (even a hairdryer will do on hottest setting), and that will expand the aluminium away fro the steel slightly and help it loosen, get some penetrating oil in there around the thread, and work it backwards and forwards without forcing it too hard, and gradually you'll get a full rotation and should get it out... it's just patience and persistence mate.
And yes...the bolt will seize into place without any thread lock...when I worked on Yamaha bike's, I was told the reason the metal locks together, is because they are usually two different types of metal...and because of that, the ionization between the two materials will (weld) itself together...I have broke many, many screws that hold the signal lights, and kill switch to the handle bars for this reason.
Lol was going to make a comment, but lol you got so many people out there who are telling you(suggesting) other ways to do it I'll just shut up and say nice work!
+Moonfleet41 yeah just used what I had to hand lol was awkward to get the bolts to sit centred there because they were too big. Seized things are my least favourite job by far
Tried getting the rear disc bolts out my RSV Mille, they are jammed in and only 10mm socket, snapped 2 10mm sockets and never even got 1 undone lol. Not sure wtf to do.
If they are a 10mm bolt head, a handy way is to take a nut with a 10mm hole if you have clearance that is, and plug weld it over the bolt head of the pin, and the outside of that nut will be more like 19mm, so you can then get a big fugg off socket on it and wind them out... just a thought!
Cheers mate, good to hear from you... and conrgatualtions on the big Tiger.. welcome to the club buddy, hope you're running the chain loose as they have quite a severe arc sweep and when you are riding two up with luggage as you do, you need the chain tension more like a moto crosser than a road bike - but you know that I'm sure !
NO worries buddy.... its a common known trick with the Big Tiger (and they are the biggest tiger ever too lol) just drop a couple of bags of gypsum on the back seat when you chekc the chain tension.. sets it bang on.. Oh, and are you coming down to the Jurassic weekend in September.?
Cheers fella, will invest in a couple of bags for the weekend :) We're hoping to get down to do a coastal run this weekend starting in Kent this weekend, but will see how it goes as I need to give her a service and replace the front brake pads. Not sure about the Jurassic yet m8y, but will try and get down for it.
How about if you drove thin metal shims in on 3 sides of the allen key with a hammer, bunger tight? That might be a go, carpenter's trick with rusty hinges but not sure about motor bolts. lpb
Not so sure that'd work, often there isn't a defined gap, just random slack.. try a Torx bit that's slightly too bit to fit by hand, and tap it in with a small hammer. works very well.
If you can't get a grip on the screw with a screwdriver and it's down inside a hole, then you either centre punch it out if you have the space, or at worst drill it out... shown all of these things many times on many videos...
I am also rebuilding a Kawasaki GPZ 550 (1986) the fork stanchions are well gone, I put the allen key onto the hole and it just ripped around it, problem is, the bottom of the fork leg does not split for the spindle, so a long allen key was needed, now I have to find a way to remove this arsed up bolt, I shall try JB weld first, as the bolt is rotten.
Just drill the head off it Doug.. use a drill bit the same size as the bolt shaft, and the hole in the middle of the alun bolt will centre the drill... then once the head spins free attached to the drill the fork will come apart, and you can remove the stump of the bolt with some grips once the damper rod it out... Good luck with it buddy.. Del.
Great advice and how to video buddy, I'm gonna have to take a trip to machine mart and get me a damn welder, keep saying I'll get one and never do, regards Stu 👍👍🔧✌️
Keep an eye out for their VAT free days - if you register for their newsletter, they will periodically send you a VAT free voucher - all helps aye buddy !
A beautiful demonstration! *thumbs up* A good thing to remember is to have your welder ground "earth" connection close to your work area. Be careful not to have the current path going through bearings and pivots (wheel, steering, linkages etc). For example: It could be tempting to clamp onto the brake disc only to find that you welded your wheel bearings. Never been done before right? :^)
Too right, good advice mate, but if you do a more extensive welding course, and get involved in the deeper stuff, you'll start to look in to current transfer and exactly what you described, the grease in the bearing acts almost as a flux and then you'll spot weld the ball bearings where they touch... wise words well said mate !
Hi Dell, rear brake caliber pin is stuck in my SV650. Mine doesn't have a socket cap but place for a flat head screwdriver. Don't have a welder...Any ideas on how to get it out?
Hi David.. ok, that screw is probably a cover cap,and the socket cap lives down inside... have a watch of this video, from 4.15 onwards.. ua-cam.com/video/fDOVTGNP6mo/v-deo.html
Thanks buddy, trying to forge new links with musicians all the time, just located an awesome rockabilly band so some even more funky msuic to come... just trying to keep things moving forward buddy!
i buddy, try splitting the caliper body in half by removing the main bolts and you can often get a stout pair of grips on the bolt and undo it by turning the pin, good luck with it.
Del, one of the brake pins on my tiger 800 has a stripped thread but it’s in a recess so not possible to weld. Any advice on how to extract it? I’ve been looking at trying JB weld but I’m worried about it getting on the threads
Hi buddy, I've heard of the JB Weld ploy and some say it works, but you can use a torx bit, if it's just big enough to tap in to the chewed bolt head, and get a bite on it, then usually that will get it out... perhaps if you coupled that with a bit of JB Weld too, I reckon you'd be on a winner!
Moonfleet41 cheers fella, I shall get some JB weld and give it a go with a torx bit. I’ll report back if I have any success. Keep up the good work, love the channel! ☠️🤘🏻
Your description of a mechanic is similar to mine. If someone just changes the broken part i call them a fitter but a mechanic will investigate why it broke in the first place and correct the problem then fit a new part if necessary. It would be great if all mechanics sat and thought about the ways to repair or salvage the part to avoid the customer paying for a new part but would this mean you would get charged for the length of time it takes for him to think of a solution? Nice video mate kept me busy waiting for my op. Do you know if you will be doing more in depth fabrication videos in the future ? Take care.
Ayup Marty, of course we will, constantly be rocking the fabrication, loads more to go on the Kawasaki build and then when that's all done and sent on it's way with it's new owner, there will be another build next year and I wanna get in to building a frame this time... fabrication is my favourite past time!
that's great to hear del I have a great interest in the fabrication and when i get a garage I will be diving into my own project. I could not agree more with the comment of people just adding accessories to bikes, I want something no one else can obtain unless they ask how haha.
Nice vid. I had the exact same problem on my Tiger and ended up having Triumph replace the calliper at £500 + VAT 😢 Next time I will look for a replacement on EBay
Hello Del, hope you and Penny had a great Christmas. I wonder could I trouble you for your advice on my front break lever. When I pull the lever it stays pulled in. I then have to push it forward to move bike and turn off break light. I have bike in storage but would like a heads up so I know whether to repair it myself. After the storage. I won't be able to attempt it before then. Yamaha xvs 950 midnight star 2012. Many thanks- John
Hi John, good to hear from you... until I read the last line of your message, I was all set to say, that your master cylinder is probably full of condensation water and gummed up, which is why it's sticking... but that's extremely unlikely on a 4yr old bike... ... but it is possible if it's had very little use and lives in a damp environment. I can't guess an exact remedy, but if it was my bike, the first thing I would do, before anything else, is pump the front brake system through with fresh fluid... nothing fancy, just buy a half pint of new fluid, and re-fill and re-fill of the reservoir, pump it all through the system, down the brake hose and out of the caliper... this will serve to wash out any water logged fluid, and then see how it is... you will probably find that will cure it, it usually does! Let me know how that goes, and we can take it from there - good luck mate, Del
Hi Del, thanks for your reply. I will give that a go, it could be March when I take it out of storage, unless you think something may degrade through time and then I will do it now? I followed you video before about changing brake fluid, which worked a charm, so I should be o.k. doing that, that was 1 year & 9 months ago. Also I have never done that cleaning service on the brake calipers that you do, mainly because I don't ride in the depths of winter. Should I be doing that anyway? I will let you know how the brake bleeding goes (eventually) and thanks a million for your wisdom. And happy new year - John
Hi again John, well, it wouldn't hurt to bleed them through now, just to get rid of the water logged fluid, as anything trapped in there for a few months over winter, will lead to rust, which could be expensive to fix, plus it doesn't cost a lot, and there's no harm in doing it early... thanks again for your Patron pledge, it's really appreciated and helps us keep things going !
Hi Del thanks for the advice. Does it matter if I use fluid from a car or bike shop??? I used fluid from car shop last time, the bike stuff was a good bit more expensive? I will try and change the fluid this weekend if I can get a good fitting peice of tube somewhere. I have been meaning to do the pledge thing for a while now but finally got around to it. Thanks for all your videos, hard work and advice, I really appreciate it. Cheers, will let you know how it goes. John
Hi again John, brake fluid is brake fluid , as long at it is DOT4 then it is fine for your bike... it sometimes is priced a little higher in bike shops due to the smaller quantities in the fancy packaging, car shops buy in bigger bulk and shop in larger quantities... but no such thing as 'bike brake fluid'... hope it goes ok for you, drop us a line if you get stuck, you know the drill!
Never tried the following on a socket, but on worn out screws: Put valve grinding compound on the allen key (or screw driver) and that gives enough grip to break the bolt. Would this work here, any experiences?
Once a socket cap is reemed out , things like that will just make it worse... also, with these brake pins, they are tight all the way out, even when the thread has cleared the caliper, the shaft of the pin can be corroded in to the brake pads, so it needs a lot of back and forth movement with lots of brake cleaner to free it off, I imagine grinding paste would simply reem the hole out even more... if it's welded in, it's totally solid, bey hey, anything is worth a try aye?
The hole isn't really deep enough in the socket cap, probably only 3-4mm at most, and what you're referring to is usually called an 'easyout' and they need at least 1/2" , even at that small diameter, or they will just reem out again ...
Something I always try is to take a torx bit, cant be the cheapest one, of appropiate size and hammer it in with appropiate force. Many times this works because the hammering loosens the bolt, and the torx bit cuts into it, making it's own grooves and then you can turn it.
Worked for me
Yes mate wacked a Allen bit in
Or hammer in an imperial size Allen key in.
Good video. I especially like that you advised to disconnect the battery to protect the ECU. This really is the avenue of last resort where the pins seize and the hex has been rounded out. May I share something I've learnt with these pins over the years. If the hex is still good don't just grab the first allen key in your toolbox and start heaving on it risking rounding it out. If your garage is like mine you'll have gathered more than a few 5 or 6mm allen keys. The size variation between them can be considerable especially with cheap Chinese made toolsets. Get your digital caliper out and measure each allen key. Find the biggest of the bunch, it''l be much tighter in the hex and you'll have a much better chance of it breaking the pin free. Another little tip - before heaving on it to undo it, go the other way, yes, to tighten it. Sometimes it's all it needs to crack it free a little. Oh and spray some penetrating fluid on it a couple of hours before starting. Not WD40, a proper penetrant such as Plus Gas or Penetrene or your own mix of acetone and ATF a combo that many car and motorcycle restorers swear by.
Brilliant video. I've got a Triumph Tiger Explorer. Tomorrow I'm copper slipping those bolts before I get this problem. BRILLIANT VIDEO.
Thanks Del! You are one of the best technical teachers i've had! Learned from you a lot! Cheers!
You're most welcome Syed, thank you for subscribing , keep in touch, always happy to help !
Another option is to use a torx bit that is just a size larger, tap it in until it full seats then use a impact driver to remove it. I've done a few nearly rounded out allen bolts that way.
That works really well for a single 'Break' free situation where a socket cap bolt is simply done up tight....but these pins are not holding on via the thread... its the shaft of the pin thats corroded into the old dead pads.... and in these situations, even a hammered in Torx bit will eventually round out the bolt... but what ever works aye.. lol.
I made up Allen key fitting out of old 6 mm with 3/8 or 1/2 drive when they were worn out. I grind the hex to about 5.1mm perfect fit and never get a problem. Even new pin and Allen key is a sloppy fit, then 1st time you really swing on them they ream out. Got some ever so slightly bigger ones too when my mates have messed their's up
Yes the fun stuff . My boy learned how to clean the bikes chain yesterday after watching you video , so then we went out side and went through the steps and cleaned the chain together . It helped him to see how to do it and why from Del then working on it him self . thanks mate
Thanks buddy, thats so kind, it makes me really proud and honoured to be able to inspire the next generation... tell him i said Hi, take care guys.. Del.
Thank you for this advice. I’m going to remove the pins from my calipers now, straight away, while they are fairly new, and apply anti-seize as a preventative.
Last september i had this at MOT time on my trusty vfr.Tried drilling and easy-outing.Massive failure.£45 e-bay caliper sorted it eventually.
I wish i had a welder handy then though i must admit this never occured to me.
Great stuff as ever,thanks muchly :)
I've had this issue a few times as I have a few older bikes, latest one was on my 900rr on the front calliper. Used an old torx bit and a hammer, have stainless in now much better than the cheap ones that were in there! I keep a small supply of torx and spline bits just for moments like this. Never thought about welding it, will be something to think about next time! Keep em coming Del!
Cheers mate, the torx bit method is always a good favourite !
I am having this problem with a front pin. Thanks for this, very helpful. Also was very happy to see a license plate on your wall from my hometown of Cheyenne, Wyoming. Great channel.
Glad it helped you Richard, and thank you for your support.. !
Great vid! I have found that the anti-rattle clips in the caliper act as springs to put a side load on the caliper pins as they push the pads against the pins. This acts "like" a split washer to some degree. So I totally agree, you don't need thread locker or to lean on it. Just snug the caliper pins up and it's fine. And the copper slip / never-seize is worth the effort. It will make life much easier later. Cheers!
Mike
Ayup buddy, hope you are both ok your end ... counting the days !
This video gives me a great appreciation for Brembo calipers; I have them on all my bikes now. Those caliper pins are friction fit and bang easily in and out with a hammer. no threads no seizing :)
Yeah, Brembo do some thinking aye, calipers built to be maintained, these clunky ols Triumph ones are from the arc, they were using this design in the 1980's... you'd have thought they would have moved on by now aye?!
just goes to show where budget cuts for R&D are. I like what I am seeing with motorcycle manufacturers on modern bikes just outsourcing this stuff to companies that specialize in it, like Brembo, Nissin, etc.
Thanks for your advice. In the end I got my pad pin pub grub screw out with a good right fitting screwdriver which had a hex on the grip. Ring spanner over the shaft to fit the hex so I could push hard with the screwdriver and turn with the spanner. Sorted thanks again.
Great news Chris, thats the result we like... when you fit it back in, now you know it only needs nipping up gently..
OK, so I got stuck brake pins and the hex key was almost able to spin in the sockets. First thing I tried was to use an expensive Park Tool hex key, but that didn't work out.
This is a success story - hope it will help some desperate soul ;)
First I used lots and lots of WD40 over the span of a few days, then an impact driver (the one you use with a hammer, not the battery-powered one) which didn't seem to do anything.
The last thing was to use a breaker bar together with the hex bit from the impact driver set - those bits are made of hardened steel and I think are also a little bigger than regular ones.
While pressing the tool hard against the socket of the pin, I turned the breaker bar veeeery slowly counterclockwise and - guess what: both the stuck pins popped and I was able to remove them and dance a celebratory morris dance knocking stuff off shelves in the garage :)))
I have always wandered if that method would work, i'm glad it did. Great vid!
Just a little tip with the welding, try and keep the feed lead as straight as possible. This will help eliminate spattering and promote a consistent weld, even if you're just tacking.
Great tutorial Del.Nice one!These skills are redundant at the moment,because most companies earn more by selling you a new part,as opposed to selling the skills of an "engineer"who can sort your "broken stud","cross threaded sparkplug",siezed swinging arm,using "easy outs "blah blah blah. I left the trade in early 90s,because,most of the "older"guys were in my opinion,just jobsworths fitters,or technicians,as they liked to call themselves.Great video!.
A man after my own heart buddy, I had exactly the same experience... left the bike trade in 2006 for the same reasons... we employed a young lad of 21 with a degree in 'motorcycle technology' and yet watching weild a hacksaw was like watching a 4yr old playing with his 'my first tool set' ... honestly , clumsy wasn't the word, nice lad, but he couldn't think he way out of the toilet...! But you're right, he had the skills needed for modern motorcycle main dealerships, which is a shame ! Oh, I feel old sometimes lol ...
On your point,my Vivaro van had a tyre blowout in about FEb/March this year,and so i took it to a local tyre fitter.I decided to watch as the young man proceeded to jack up my van under the sill,as it started to kink.I then said to the nice young man that you have not found the jacking point on a 2 tonne van,so i had to show him.I am glad i was there to police him.His certificate of competence was on the wall, as i paid 400 quid for 4 new tyres.All 4 hub bosses were corroded,no scratchbrush,and no coppergrease was used! Im a bit younger than you Del,but i SMH! Yo aint old Del,your knowledgable,and knowledge is power.ATB.
I've had exactly the same experience buddy... went to a local tyre fitter to fit some performance tyres to my Honda Civic, I watched a lad of no more than 18, who was apparantly a 'qualified tyre fitter' attempt to lever a bone dry tyre bead on to a new rim... he tore a chunk out of the rubber bead about 1/2" round, pulled it out with his fingers to look at it, it was still attached by a tiny thread, so he put it back in place, patted it in the hole it came from, then did a swift look left & right to see if anyone had seen him... whereupon he saw me watching! And then, believe it or not, he actually proceeded to wope some tyre grease over it right in front of me - I stopped him and called his boss out of the office, whereupon he argued he had greased it first and the damage was already there! As you can imagine, I went f*king mental! Took my rims and tyres and left, and worst of all, the manager actually got confrontational with me, never trust these people again!
Having had this problem before, I've had good luck with grinding a sharp graduated tapper into a sized up hex "allen" socket then rapping it in with a hammer. Trimming off the tip to get the perfect depth of the modified socket is the key here. I save all my bitched up tools in a separate drawer. These tools are my secret stash for emergency mods! I do like your method more, more skill and who doesn't want to light off the welder to fix a problem. Thanks for your great lessons
Thank you Scott, I really like that solution, and I'm gonna use it... can't always use the welder with the heat involved, and yeah I have a drawer full of cannablised tools, it's my 'get out of jail free' drawer !
I would have been dancing round the garage after getting the pin out.
I edited that out mate lol along with the running man dance!
Just a question re torque. There are two types: Lubricated and dry. The same bolt will have different torque values. The Triumph manual warns "never lubricate a thread unless instructed to do so". The rationale is that the lubricant reduces the friction and results in an over tightened condition and a possible fixing failure. For the brakes, lube is called out on the caliper pins. For the rear wheel spindle, there is no lube callout for the 85 Nm torque. Future jobs might be better if you didn't lube the end of the spindle. This information comes from Service Manual T3859909-01 issue 4, 10.2004. I really enjoy your videos. So superior to the manual. I currently have a stuck caliper pin. I'll try the epoxy or the torx bit fix rec by David L.
I am a degreed manufacturing engineer, so have background in the fastener field.
Another great video, but no welder here, and I won't waste my time with JB Weld. I got my pin out with an EZ Out, or screw extractor. I used the biggest one possible, was able to drill down 11mm and got really good purchase. A little patience, and the job was done. Thanks Del and Penny!
Nice one John, always love to hear of great little ways to get round this sort of thing... you can also have success , if it happens again, by hammering an over-sized torx bit in to the end, I did that with this and it didn't work, so I had to resort to the welder, but hey, we do whatever works aye!
"Thanks" Del ..... Another GREAT VIDEO Sir !! You are a DAMN GOOD instructor ....
Wow, thank you very much - we try our best !
Thanks for this, ive got the exact same issue on my pgo gmax front caliper, ive got a welder, do i try it, or the jb weld....great vid...
Very very good tip that i am sure could be used in many other situations. Would have never thought of that in a million years! Thank you!
Great info on the battery and welding mess! wouldn't think of that either!
Thanks Gil, its a very expensive mistake, and aweful to find out the hard way..
Great to see you getting back to "helpful tips" type videos Del. I've missed your tutorials.
Thanks buddy, we do them as they come along ! We have a lot of different directions now, simple skills, ride videos, and the project, all in the aim of keeping everyone entertained with something different ... cheers, Del
Thank you for another great tip and video Del. Nice to know if one is ever in a mess, chances are the fix will be on your channel no doubt. God bless you fella!
Thanks buddy, there's always around something aye?!
loved how you did that in real time, maybe it will work, maybe it won't .... you took the chance and of course did it perfectly
Thanks mate, well, no job is guaranteed till it's finished, and it's arrogant to think it will go right no matter what ... as so often, they don't!
a good save!!
i had this on rottweiller but no welder so i took the caliper off ground off the pads (was fitting new ones) heated the pin and mole gripped it...luckily it worked...bloomin triumph rear calipers !!!
cheers budsky..
(thought i would go budsky , had a band member once who said it all the time i really wanted to poke him in the orbit , i sacked him instead!!)
Ha ha... Orbit AND THEN sack... even better..! Cheers me dear, Oh and early model Kawasaki GPz's used the same lame caliper too... ! says it all aye.lol
I have this exact problem I'm going to give it a go with my wilder thank you for making this video you are so much help
Glad it helped, good luck with it.
i had the same problem with mine, i hammed a flat head screw driver bit in the hole and used a rachet on it worked a treat.
Cool trick, can do the same with a torx bit as well!
Good one Del I was hoping you would say weld something to it. I have already replaced with stainless after a similar incident on the from ones . I now routinely just give them a few turns in / out a few times a year.
Good plan my friend, as I said a while back in all of the caliper cleaning videos, routine cleaning will make your brakes last a lifetime... once you've got the stainless pins in, you can stick them in an electric drill to polish them in the future and keep the pads sliding freely!
Hang on , this is a repeat ! I'm sure I saw this 4 years ago ! 😊.. ha..
Hey brother it just came up in suggestions so I thought I would have a nostalgia trip ... lovely jubbly 👍🏻☮❤
Blimey, doing the rounds again aye brother, well it's all good for refresher if nothing else, it's either that or the YT gods know there's a cold winter coming!!
OK , I've watched an seen the weld! Your points just soared, haha! Tim.
I wish I'd found this video 3 weeks ago 🤣😂🤣 great as always. I've learnt my lesson now.
Thanks buddy, glad it could help you for the future !
Great tutorial Del. This is how I met you by the way...searching on UA-cam because my caliper pin was seized. A while before this video unfortunately. Tried just about everything, never thought of a welder. Too much Monkey Boy ingenuity and I ended up buying a new caliper. Would have paid for half a new welder. Keep up the great work. I love watching.
Hey Shannon, Thank you for you lovely message, and for sticking with us all this time... we really appreciate the kind support.. we all learn as we go along aye.. as long as a thing done wrong teaches us how to do it right.. then it still has value wouldn't you say..!!
Del, know I'm always commenting but... these tips can be so useful to even someone who isn't a biker, it's like you said about 'mechanic'... use common sense, deduction, and (something you didn't say)...modify tips like this you've picked up from elsewhere, and make em work!
Cheers
Thanks mate, just trying to buck against the trend of us all becoming paying customers, when we should be doers and fixers! None of what we produce in video is ever that taxing, most of it just common sense maintenance... and who can't do that with a little bit of thought ?!
Haha, so, I got the same monocast problem on a 85 v65 honda sabre. Only problem is that the pins don't even have a allen key slot. They're just solid on both sides. This is the only video showing up for me too lol.
Great advice Del . Dam steel in alloy is a real pain .You got a right result getting that out.
Yeah, touch and go though... just as easy to snap the head off and find yourself surfing eBay for a new one..lol
True Del . Welded a nut on a mower engine sump stud just would not move it .
You could cut the bolt head with a die grinder, to make a slot like a flat head screwdriver, then try to turn it. It will not hurt the caliper if you cut a SMALL, grove in the caliper, while cutting the bolt head, at a very small amount.
Lots of wisdom in this video. Very good!
Hey Del surely removing the Caliper from the disc and using a pair of small vise grips on the smooth section of the pin between the pads would allow you to gradually turn it out? Obviously with the hydraulic line still attached.
another option can be using a bolt extractor, given there is enough left to grab and not damage the inside thread. worked on my ST1100. Came here to find about stuck calipers :-0 , so you're saying soapy water? i recall pertrol being used back in the day?
Another excellent video Delboy. If no welding equipment or J,B weld, could you cut a line into it if there is enough head showing for a large screwdriver?????
Hi buddy, you can only any normal socket cap but this is screwed in flush with the surface, so that would damage the caliper... but always good to try anything if you have to...
Hi ya watched ya blog on getting brake pad bolts out of the triumph I two had trouble with america took cailper off put in vice drilled into bolt then wacked a Allen bit into then a socket and ay presto I got them out today thank God ordered to stainless steel ones great vids keep them coming
I saw a motor mechanic with the same problem and he just hammered it out with a hardened screw drive. The method he used was to hammer a V in one side of the head of the alan key top then swap to a blunt screw driver and hammer that in the direction to loosen it. I saw him remove 4 stuck recessed alan key heads in about 3 min.
Good man, all too many of them in the main dealers will just fit a new caliper and charge YOU for it...
Encountered the same issue a while ago on a varadero,identical caliper,rammed a torx bit in and got them out
Love the camera-fall "Easter egg" at the end!
This is the problem I have on my NC750XDE parking brake pins. Of course I don't have a welder. Unfortunately they seem to have been over torqued so the heads have rounded, but because the parking brake shouldn't wear much they don't usually get changed either. I know that once I succeed in removing them they will need replacement so I searched but though you can get the pads because they fit other calipers too, only Honda seem to make pad pins for these. Alas Honda also put thread lock on the whole thread, all 6mm of it! I have tried drilling deeper and using some amtech screw extractors, but I can't get it to turn the pin using a standard 6" tapping wrench. Then again I also have the challenge of trying to hold the caliper because my pad pins are on the inside of the caliper. I also tried wd-40, break cleaner and engine degreaser to try to free the threads but to no avail. I also tried heating it with a heat gun but I was scared to go too hot so that didn't help either.
By the way I already changed the seals and also fitted stainless pad pins and pistons on the front and rear hydraulic brakes because they were badly corroded, which your videos helped me have the confidence to do thank you. I may have to try the epoxy and disposable allen key trick, though I still think it needs more heat. To be seen. Ironically these calipers are over £100 second hand, being rare, and often come from abroad with high postal charges, so I hope I can get this sorted...
Thanks for your videos. Hope Penny's ok too.
Sorry to hear you're having this trouble.. have you tried tapping a torx bit into the rounded alun key hole.. usually works to get a bite in it, and if it has threadlock in there, then heat will help to not only melt the glue...but also expand the casting slightly and help release the screw !! Thanks for your feedback too, and good luck with your task mate.
I would usually try to use an easy out( not sure if you have those over there) but failing that it's time for the drill . But welding it sounds a lot easier. Never would have thought of that .
Your a genius del. Cheers 4 sharing the knowledge again. ( Hope the gopro was alright)
Ha ha yeah, made of granite those things... and yeah we have Easyouts here, little reverse cone twist tool...and great if you cna drill down straight...if you drift off to one side, its only goes downhill from there aye.. Good to hear from you always buddy.
yeah that's them, can be useful sometimes but really is a crapshoot. Cheers
Yeah, a square shanked (or screw style) easy out, with a little heat would have been my first try, but great solution you brought to the table too. Great tip!
When a piston got stuck in a caliper I would pour boiling hot water over it, which would allow me to wind it back in. Would this work for this method seeing as they are 2 different metals?
Not usualy, obviously its worth trying anything when you're stuck, you never know your luck... but the tiny area of alloy that you are trying to expand away from that pin is not enough to make a differance...with the piston, its huge by comparison...and also the piston wont be stuck by much more than a little dirt.. the pins have the thread, AND the length of the pin caked in road crud.... but like i said. try anyhting aye.. what ever works..! lol
Great stuff as always Del !! On my old ZZR600 they were not threaded, just held in with split pins... Still an absolute bugger to get out though...and always leaned them using the electric drill method :-)
TBH mate, those split pin ones are the best, however, stuck they get, you can drift them out from the other side... then bung them in the drill like you do... the screw in ones are a pain in the arse...!
such a nice feeling when u have a victory over a mechanical issue isnt it
Sure is buddy, win win !
I normally find my Wera allen keys work (the ends are almost like Torx profile also you can put a power bar on them and lean on them, yes they bend but don't snap and straiten themselves up after.) If not them I resort to the Torx and impact driver method
Always avoid impact drivers on calipers, you end up hitting for too long, these pins are not tight, and then break with a crack which many fasteners do, they are tight all the way out , as you saw... as even when the thread was free, the pins still hung on to the pad inside the caliper, so the impact driver is a bit redundant...
Hi Del, why didn't you try to use an extractor bit - I had the same nasty experience but with the caliper bolt - tried some other options before like hammering big ass screwdriver and almost breaking my wrists trying to undo it, tried to grind the head to fit 12mm spanner - broke two spanners, heating it - nothing helped... After 4 hours I remembered I have bought a set of extractors a while ago, so it took me just five minutes to get it out... Since then I worship them and frankly they never let me down (0h, did I mentioned I drive a Honda :))
I think you mean an 'Easy Out', which I have got a set, but they need at least 1/2" deep hole to get a good 'bite', and this socket cap is barely 4mm deep, so it wouldn't get enough purchase, maybe I should have said this... I could have drilled in to it, but chose this method instead !
+Moonfleet41 it's possible - never got more than 5-6mm depth - yeah, you need few tries to make it catch... I guess I can do it because I don't have welding equipment and it's the last option for me... I am glad I have learned another trick from you - sure I will use it some day when I got mig welder - thank you!
You also might have decent luck if you pull the caliper off completely, pads and all, put it in a vice, then try backing it out by gripping on the unthreaded part of the stripped faster between the pads with some locking pliers(vice grips) or something. You'd have to rebleed of course, but even if vice grips don't work you've got easier access to a get at it with a welder or whatever next step you decide to go with.
Tried fitting a pair of vice grips between two brake pads?.....remember they'll still be in the way until the pins are out..!
+Moonfleet41 you can compress the piston/s to get max room, and then fit the vice grips in there, thickest ones you can. They make tiny ones, super thin, sorta thin, all the way as fat as you wanna go. Honestly seem to get more use out of my needle nose size ones than the big honkers. This is of course off topic of your video which is welding onto the bolt to get it out(well done btw), just saying it in case someone else finds this vid searching for your issue and reads comments for other stuff to try out before welding :p
Great stuff Delboy, another brilliant video..
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it.
my lads sitting watching this video glued to the telly .
P- Where was this video a few months back? Haha, had this issue with the triumph trophy caliper. I was rapidly running out of options, so with a used caliper on my watch list I decided to 'gently' ;) tap an oversized security torx bit in. Worked beautifully!
Well saved buddy... glad you got it done..! scary ainit..!!lol
My first port of call with stripped allen bolts is just to hammer an equal size torx into it. Usually works for me.....Also I cant weld haha
i had a spark plug snap in my head. spun the engine over to blow out the core then whacked a torx bit into the hole with a massive hammer! took a 1/2" long arm to shift it
Thats a good method, usually works on regular fasteners....but even that can strip out when they are proper seized on place... also its not too safe hammering anything on a brake caliper, they're pretty fragile cast ally.
Really struggling with the brake pipe hose bolt seized solid , any ideas how to shift it. 2015 tiger explorer rear .tried plus gas , heat, wrench. socket.. now started to round off.. can you help..please😤
shagged bolts n studs....friggin nitemare....big up da weldage del lol👍
Too right mate, if in doubt, melt it out !
Wise words as always delboy. Love the tune at the end!
Thanks buddy, that guy is an insanely talented guitarist aye!
EZY outs may work they have a drill bit then a splined driver you drive in too drill hole cost a shit load so I lend one works a treat I also think the tap helps break the lock
Please send the link for the drilling of the head of a socket cap...and thanks for all the videos!
A great series of videos, really well thought out and filmed. I'm stuck however as the grub screw covering the brake pin head on my Thunderbird rear caliper is stuck. I'm in danger of chewing out the slot and not sure how to proceed. Can I use an impact driver?
Hi Chris, An impact driver would be good as long as you use a snug fitting bit, otherwise you could maybe try to centre punch it to get it moving.. !! Good luck with it buddy, hope it helps..
Thanks for that one! I love these kind of videos, ride safe!
Hi Del. I have this issue (Honda Firestorm) but luckily the calipers are 2 part ones. I've split the jammed up one - any suggestions please on how to get the brake caliper pin out - it's still mightily stuck and I'm wary of forcing it. Currently have it in a vice and trying to unscrew the caliper body from it, but no joy!! Cheers.
If you have a good solid purchase on the pin now, then heat the caliper (even a hairdryer will do on hottest setting), and that will expand the aluminium away fro the steel slightly and help it loosen, get some penetrating oil in there around the thread, and work it backwards and forwards without forcing it too hard, and gradually you'll get a full rotation and should get it out... it's just patience and persistence mate.
@@Moonfleet41 OK I will give that a go - thanks heaps!
my gs500 front brake keeps going soft every few weeks. bleeding the brakes seems to firm them up for a short while.
would that be the master cylinder?
Possibly, you can drag air in if the fluid it low too..
And yes...the bolt will seize into place without any thread lock...when I worked on Yamaha bike's, I was told the reason the metal locks together, is because they are usually two different types of metal...and because of that, the ionization between the two materials will (weld) itself together...I have broke many, many screws that hold the signal lights, and kill switch to the handle bars for this reason.
Have used this method on things but I always try hammering in a bigger Allen Key or torx first then go to this if that doesn't work
Yeah, the torx bits ar a good dodge.. but its always good to have a "Final Solution" aye..lol
Liked it before watching. Subbed. Astonishing build Del! Cheers from Pakistan! Peace to all!
Thanks so much Syed, and welcome aboard my friend. Ride safe there.. Del.
Lol was going to make a comment, but lol you got so many people out there who are telling you(suggesting) other ways to do it I'll just shut up and say nice work!
There's always another way to skin a cat mate, feel free by all means...
Another great video. I spotted you yesterday! coming out of Poole near McDonald's driving a coach :)
Yeah, that would have been around lunchtime, blimey, can't hide anywhere lol !
+Moonfleet41 hahaha
Had to do a load of exhaust studs in a mates bike last week just set a nut over the stud and welded it straight to the stud.
Anyhting that works aye buddy... nice one.
+Moonfleet41 yeah just used what I had to hand lol was awkward to get the bolts to sit centred there because they were too big. Seized things are my least favourite job by far
Where can I get those stainless Steel brake pad pin? Are those the same for Hayabusa?
Tried getting the rear disc bolts out my RSV Mille, they are jammed in and only 10mm socket, snapped 2 10mm sockets and never even got 1 undone lol. Not sure wtf to do.
If they are a 10mm bolt head, a handy way is to take a nut with a 10mm hole if you have clearance that is, and plug weld it over the bolt head of the pin, and the outside of that nut will be more like 19mm, so you can then get a big fugg off socket on it and wind them out... just a thought!
Great tips fella... sure I will be using both at some point. cheers for sharing..
Cheers mate, good to hear from you... and conrgatualtions on the big Tiger.. welcome to the club buddy, hope you're running the chain loose as they have quite a severe arc sweep and when you are riding two up with luggage as you do, you need the chain tension more like a moto crosser than a road bike - but you know that I'm sure !
I didn't m8, it was loose by an additional 5mm either way more luck than judgement on my behalf. Cheers for the info fella, as always appreciated.
NO worries buddy.... its a common known trick with the Big Tiger (and they are the biggest tiger ever too lol) just drop a couple of bags of gypsum on the back seat when you chekc the chain tension.. sets it bang on.. Oh, and are you coming down to the Jurassic weekend in September.?
Cheers fella, will invest in a couple of bags for the weekend :) We're hoping to get down to do a coastal run this weekend starting in Kent this weekend, but will see how it goes as I need to give her a service and replace the front brake pads. Not sure about the Jurassic yet m8y, but will try and get down for it.
How about if you drove thin metal shims in on 3 sides of the allen key with a hammer, bunger tight? That might be a go, carpenter's trick with rusty hinges but not sure about motor bolts.
lpb
Not so sure that'd work, often there isn't a defined gap, just random slack.. try a Torx bit that's slightly too bit to fit by hand, and tap it in with a small hammer. works very well.
Hi, if you have flat screw drive head for the pin and it is stuck, how would you get it out? Just keeps slipping and ripping the bolt up
If you can't get a grip on the screw with a screwdriver and it's down inside a hole, then you either centre punch it out if you have the space, or at worst drill it out... shown all of these things many times on many videos...
I am also rebuilding a Kawasaki GPZ 550 (1986) the fork stanchions are well gone, I put the allen key onto the hole and it just ripped around it, problem is, the bottom of the fork leg does not split for the spindle, so a long allen key was needed, now I have to find a way to remove this arsed up bolt, I shall try JB weld first, as the bolt is rotten.
Just drill the head off it Doug.. use a drill bit the same size as the bolt shaft, and the hole in the middle of the alun bolt will centre the drill... then once the head spins free attached to the drill the fork will come apart, and you can remove the stump of the bolt with some grips once the damper rod it out... Good luck with it buddy.. Del.
Thanks Del.
Great advice and how to video buddy, I'm gonna have to take a trip to machine mart and get me a damn welder, keep saying I'll get one and never do, regards Stu 👍👍🔧✌️
Keep an eye out for their VAT free days - if you register for their newsletter, they will periodically send you a VAT free voucher - all helps aye buddy !
+Moonfleet41 yep buddy, already registered, got my tool boxes that way 👍🔧🔧🔧
A beautiful demonstration! *thumbs up* A good thing to remember is to have your welder ground "earth" connection close to your work area.
Be careful not to have the current path going through bearings and pivots (wheel, steering, linkages etc). For example: It could be tempting to clamp onto the brake disc only to find that you welded your wheel bearings. Never been done before right? :^)
Too right, good advice mate, but if you do a more extensive welding course, and get involved in the deeper stuff, you'll start to look in to current transfer and exactly what you described, the grease in the bearing acts almost as a flux and then you'll spot weld the ball bearings where they touch... wise words well said mate !
Hi Dell, rear brake caliber pin is stuck in my SV650. Mine doesn't have a socket cap but place for a flat head screwdriver. Don't have a welder...Any ideas on how to get it out?
Hi David.. ok, that screw is probably a cover cap,and the socket cap lives down inside... have a watch of this video, from 4.15 onwards.. ua-cam.com/video/fDOVTGNP6mo/v-deo.html
Moonfleet41 Thanks Del. Previous owner has minced the screw so might be a struggle getting it out!
Thats always happening... just chace the screw round with a centre punch mate... they come out pretty easy..
Great video Del, good for future reference for if/when I come across this problem. cheers.
Cheers mate!
Excellent vid! Still my favourite channel on youtube . Keep it up! P.s. loving the new funky music!
Thanks buddy, trying to forge new links with musicians all the time, just located an awesome rockabilly band so some even more funky msuic to come... just trying to keep things moving forward buddy!
Mines js stuck i tried unscrewing it so much that I warn it out is there a way to get it out or should I buy a whole new caliper
i buddy, try splitting the caliper body in half by removing the main bolts and you can often get a stout pair of grips on the bolt and undo it by turning the pin, good luck with it.
You are top notch, good stuff as always.
Thanks for this video, I am going to try this fix now 👍🏻
No problem 👍
Took my bike to bike shop they torque it to spec now I can't get them off. How often dose jb weld work with torqued on
Don't know Ben, never used it.. i just weld them in.!
Nice solution :) I've also have good experience with torn wrench hammered in to the hole and get it out that way :)
Torx
Yeah, thats a great tip, and often works... but even that rounded out on this one..!
Del, one of the brake pins on my tiger 800 has a stripped thread but it’s in a recess so not possible to weld. Any advice on how to extract it? I’ve been looking at trying JB weld but I’m worried about it getting on the threads
Hi buddy, I've heard of the JB Weld ploy and some say it works, but you can use a torx bit, if it's just big enough to tap in to the chewed bolt head, and get a bite on it, then usually that will get it out... perhaps if you coupled that with a bit of JB Weld too, I reckon you'd be on a winner!
Moonfleet41 cheers fella, I shall get some JB weld and give it a go with a torx bit. I’ll report back if I have any success. Keep up the good work, love the channel! ☠️🤘🏻
Your description of a mechanic is similar to mine. If someone just changes the broken part i call them a fitter but a mechanic will investigate why it broke in the first place and correct the problem then fit a new part if necessary. It would be great if all mechanics sat and thought about the ways to repair or salvage the part to avoid the customer paying for a new part but would this mean you would get charged for the length of time it takes for him to think of a solution? Nice video mate kept me busy waiting for my op. Do you know if you will be doing more in depth fabrication videos in the future ?
Take care.
Ayup Marty, of course we will, constantly be rocking the fabrication, loads more to go on the Kawasaki build and then when that's all done and sent on it's way with it's new owner, there will be another build next year and I wanna get in to building a frame this time... fabrication is my favourite past time!
that's great to hear del I have a great interest in the fabrication and when i get a garage I will be diving into my own project. I could not agree more with the comment of people just adding accessories to bikes, I want something no one else can obtain unless they ask how haha.
Nice vid. I had the exact same problem on my Tiger and ended up having Triumph replace the calliper at £500 + VAT 😢 Next time I will look for a replacement on EBay
Hello Del, hope you and Penny had a great Christmas. I wonder could I trouble you for your advice on my front break lever. When I pull the lever it stays pulled in. I then have to push it forward to move bike and turn off break light. I have bike in storage but would like a heads up so I know whether to repair it myself. After the storage. I won't be able to attempt it before then. Yamaha xvs 950 midnight star 2012. Many thanks- John
Hi John, good to hear from you... until I read the last line of your message, I was all set to say, that your master cylinder is probably full of condensation water and gummed up, which is why it's sticking... but that's extremely unlikely on a 4yr old bike...
... but it is possible if it's had very little use and lives in a damp environment. I can't guess an exact remedy, but if it was my bike, the first thing I would do, before anything else, is pump the front brake system through with fresh fluid... nothing fancy, just buy a half pint of new fluid, and re-fill and re-fill of the reservoir, pump it all through the system, down the brake hose and out of the caliper... this will serve to wash out any water logged fluid, and then see how it is... you will probably find that will cure it, it usually does!
Let me know how that goes, and we can take it from there - good luck mate, Del
Hi Del, thanks for your reply. I will give that a go, it could be March when I take it out of storage, unless you think something may degrade through time and then I will do it now? I followed you video before about changing brake fluid, which worked a charm, so I should be o.k. doing that, that was 1 year & 9 months ago.
Also I have never done that cleaning service on the brake calipers that you do, mainly because I don't ride in the depths of winter. Should I be doing that anyway?
I will let you know how the brake bleeding goes (eventually) and thanks a million for your wisdom. And happy new year - John
Hi again John, well, it wouldn't hurt to bleed them through now, just to get rid of the water logged fluid, as anything trapped in there for a few months over winter, will lead to rust, which could be expensive to fix, plus it doesn't cost a lot, and there's no harm in doing it early... thanks again for your Patron pledge, it's really appreciated and helps us keep things going !
Hi Del thanks for the advice. Does it matter if I use fluid from a car or bike shop??? I used fluid from car shop last time, the bike stuff was a good bit more expensive?
I will try and change the fluid this weekend if I can get a good fitting peice of tube somewhere.
I have been meaning to do the pledge thing for a while now but finally got around to it. Thanks for all your videos, hard work and advice, I really appreciate it.
Cheers, will let you know how it goes. John
Hi again John, brake fluid is brake fluid , as long at it is DOT4 then it is fine for your bike... it sometimes is priced a little higher in bike shops due to the smaller quantities in the fancy packaging, car shops buy in bigger bulk and shop in larger quantities... but no such thing as 'bike brake fluid'... hope it goes ok for you, drop us a line if you get stuck, you know the drill!
Never tried the following on a socket, but on worn out screws:
Put valve grinding compound on the allen key (or screw driver) and that gives enough grip to break the bolt.
Would this work here, any experiences?
Once a socket cap is reemed out , things like that will just make it worse... also, with these brake pins, they are tight all the way out, even when the thread has cleared the caliper, the shaft of the pin can be corroded in to the brake pads, so it needs a lot of back and forth movement with lots of brake cleaner to free it off, I imagine grinding paste would simply reem the hole out even more... if it's welded in, it's totally solid, bey hey, anything is worth a try aye?
Great welding tips👌
Wow, hat's off to you, good sir.
Awesome video as always I look forward to these more than the walking dead ! Haha
thanks great videos as always. what about using a screw extractor? and extract it counterclockwise?
The hole isn't really deep enough in the socket cap, probably only 3-4mm at most, and what you're referring to is usually called an 'easyout' and they need at least 1/2" , even at that small diameter, or they will just reem out again ...