More shop envy Bob! Beautiful surface planer there. I have to agree with Mr. Downes below. Definitely skillful use of a circular saw. Seeing the first plank go on really brings the project alive. Thank you for sharing.
Who doesn't want to have an overhead crane in his shop like the one Bob has. How clever that Bob used good old fashion geometry plus lofting to create the flat pattern for the 4-5 inch duct splice. The lesson on spiling was great! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you much for the content. I'm working on laying out my own boat project and your videos have helped inform me on, both, how simple the basic concept is, and how complicated the execution is.
Hi Jeffrey, Great to hear! What boat are you building? I would love to chat with you about your boat building journey. Schedule a call with me at this link: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building I'll look forward to chatting with you! Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding The plan is essentially to build a viking long-ship inspired canoe. Still in the very early stages of planning. Still trying to decide how deeply to go into plans, as I'm hoping to learn most concepts by trial and error, hence the small size. I'm an Engineer by trade, and have worked with wood before, but I've never worked in the precise, specifically contoured structure of boats before. I've bookmarked your calendly, and I'll probably try to set one up after I've dug a bit more into how I want to go about this. At this point, I'm still learning what questions to ask.
Ok Bob iam druling at your thickness planer. I got my rough dawn planks in at 1 inch and had to plane down to5/8. I have fun trying to feed them through my old planet by myself. I used candle wax and then started using oil on bed to help feed them through. The tools are everything. Great job Bob!
I like your new planer. It should be up to the task and save some time to boot. Nice description of the layout for the garboard plank. Should fit as a pattern for the other side with a little trimming. The white cedar looks to be a good material to plank the boat with.
Excellent Bob! This video is "dedicated" to every smart-ass high school math student who ever sarcastically whined to their teacher'; "When am I ever going to use this stuff?" DD
Thanks for all of the explanation you have provided. How do you get the angle/bevel of the cut on each plank so that it meets up without the gap? Or do you leave the gap in the expectation of installing cotton (or some other) caulking? Thanks.
I can see that a trim Carpenter could adapt your method of spiling when traditional methods of scribing don't work. There have been a couple times I've had to improvise spiling/scribing when infilling between to surfaces. Wainscoting and brick comes to mind. I used a "scribe block" similar to the spiling block you describe. I didn't have a bent leg divider but after seeing have you put it to use, I'm going to make one for my kit. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks. So in return I would like to offer a little advise. I notice you are using short saw horses. I used them also but only when I have to actually machine a board. That way I'm standing above the tool and have a better sight line. When I'm doing layout i work on a horses that are about 6"taller. There's less stopping, and to me a better site line for transferring marks and lines. And as seems for your craft as I'm mine, we spend appreciably more time laying out, especially when accuracy counts than actual milling with the tools. Your back will thank you. Great teaching videos.
I can never get that kind of precision and control with a circular saw. Part of it is that I have a right-handed saw, and I'm right-handed. It's awkward. You mentioned this problem in another video. But it's also just big and heavy, and it's not easy to control. My jigsaw feels a bit better, but it'll walk off the line pretty easily. I can cut near the line and then plane it down. I have less control with my bandsaw. I see that you set the blade on your circular saw only as deep as necessary, so I'm sure that would make a difference. I'll try that next time. Also, they do make smaller circular saws, which might make cutting a curved line easier. And they have battery-powered ones, too! That cord is always an issue.
Fantastic! I do have a question about your lumber. Do you expect to be able to use the thinner piece off of your re-saw? Too bad it wasn’t like 1 1/4 thick but I all too well know we have to use what lumber we can get. I’m so glad you are doing such detail on spiling and planking. Cheers!
HI, during the design stage of the hull, do you have to consider how the plank will fill on each stage (rib) from the transom to the stem? I mean the geometry of the plank will allways adapt to the curvature of the hull?
I almost hate to say this.... because I love the manual approach to showing us the calculation for the intersection of pipes... But have you looked at Fusion 360? ;-)
Geometric construction is valuable even if you are using CAD software. It is a vanishing art. One should learn these techniques before being allowed to use CAD.
With a suitable plank planed to thickness, can you estimate how many hours are involved in getting a garboard ready to attach to the hull. I am curious as to how long I can expect it will take to spile, mark, cut, trim and fit a garboard on a Haven 12 1/2?
With some practice getting a garboard ready to offer up to the boat should take about 2-3 hours. As the port garboard is a template for the starboard (or visa vera) a beginner should be able to hang both garboards in a day. The more experienced can easily install several strakes in a day. Hope that helps. As a side note for time involved. One of my boat builders in my online clinic that has build a Haven 12 1/2, and kept track of his time, he completed the boat in about 1200 hours. He is an experienced woodworked, however this was his first boat. Want to know more? www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you Bob for your prompt reply. You have provided good info. I am currently building a 12' Lawley Yacht Tender. I have been studying all of your videos closely as I work my way through the build. They have been very helpful. I have learned a lot.
Really enjoying the splinting in these videos, very informative. Just 1 question and it is about the duck work you did : how did you attach the 45 if you had no tabs to screw into, well I did not see any or did you do something different? But again the splinting is helping me with the wooden model boat that I'm trying to build to scale. So keep up the great work.
He made the template with tabs and then cut the hole without them. I had to rewind a couple of times to pick that up. When he is screwing it in it makes sense.
The hole I cut was about a 1/2 inch smaller on each side to accept the sheet metal screws. Not show in the video, however I did seal the seam with aluminum duct tape. Made it much stronger and seal any air leaks. Thanks!
@@trinitytoo attaching a tube (sleave) to a larger tube (body of the shirt, jacket, or sweater). Nice comment. My mom spent time as a seamstress to put herself through nursing school.
the drawing is obviously wrong, as a cardioid is a concave shape while the intersection of two cylinder is not ... but fortunately you did not follow the drawing and just cut by feel (or other unfilmed prototyping mean)...
??? I’m not quite sure what you’re getting at. Bob doesn’t seem to be the kind of guy to show something in a video and then do something different off camera to make it work. I’ve never plotted out the intersection lines of tubing as in this video but am sure going to try it out. Expanding my dust collection system just got a whole lot cheaper. Thank You for the info Bob. I appreciate the advise.
@@sxsboy2253 i'm not quite sure what you're getting at either : maybe if you did the plotting or thought about it a bit before commenting you'd knew what you're writing about, or even only compare the initial drawing with what he actually cut with the wheel hand tool... nothing wrong with what he does, I'm sure he realized he as he went and adapted as he proceeded, I mentioned it in case people want to replicate the procedure.
@@n1352-m1i anyone who has fit different sized tubing or pipes together, welding up a roll-cage for instance, knows this dip in the top of the smaller tube makes for a tighter fit and less welding. The sides of the added tube must reach around the sides of the parent tube or you get gaps.
@@thomasarussellsr I'm not saying that you can't bend metal to fit for some welding technique and specific purpose - here it's not the case, the initial drawing is about projection geometry, and a point may have been forgotten, a projection angle confusion or something, to produce the first cardioid ~6'15", then ~7'15" one can see the gap at the top, and when closing the gap the paper tube has to be flattened and is not a cylinder anymore, then the hole ~7'30" is not cut according to the cardioid but using a convex shape. A quick search gives some sites that provide more infos about cylinders intersections (different diameters , with or without intersection axis ...) e.g. www.joshuanava.biz/geometric/intersection-of-regular-solids.html
@@n1352-m1i okay, that makes more mathematical sense. Thank you, I understand what you are saying now. Look up a video on notching pipes to build a roll-cage. This will explain what I was trying to say. I am not a professional pipe fitter, but I do have the mathematical background to visualize the curve of the main pipe into a adjoining pipe and what that would look like flattened out into a 2-D shape. Again, thanks for describing your point of view. It is refreshing to see intelligent conversation instead of the average person who resorts to name calling.
More shop envy Bob! Beautiful surface planer there. I have to agree with Mr. Downes below. Definitely skillful use of a circular saw. Seeing the first plank go on really brings the project alive. Thank you for sharing.
Who doesn't want to have an overhead crane in his shop like the one Bob has. How clever that Bob used good old fashion geometry plus lofting to create the flat pattern for the 4-5 inch duct splice. The lesson on spiling was great! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks David
I'm not a boat maker but a model boat maker. Your video really helps me a lot to understand how exactly it works
Glad it helped!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for showing the traditional methods, Bob.
Thank you much for the content. I'm working on laying out my own boat project and your videos have helped inform me on, both, how simple the basic concept is, and how complicated the execution is.
Hi Jeffrey,
Great to hear! What boat are you building? I would love to chat with you about your boat building journey.
Schedule a call with me at this link:
calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building
I'll look forward to chatting with you!
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding The plan is essentially to build a viking long-ship inspired canoe. Still in the very early stages of planning. Still trying to decide how deeply to go into plans, as I'm hoping to learn most concepts by trial and error, hence the small size. I'm an Engineer by trade, and have worked with wood before, but I've never worked in the precise, specifically contoured structure of boats before. I've bookmarked your calendly, and I'll probably try to set one up after I've dug a bit more into how I want to go about this. At this point, I'm still learning what questions to ask.
Nice work. Thanks for showing us all the details.
Ok Bob iam druling at your thickness planer. I got my rough dawn planks in at 1 inch and had to plane down to5/8. I have fun trying to feed them through my old planet by myself. I used candle wax and then started using oil on bed to help feed them through. The tools are everything. Great job Bob!
and that is why I could never build a boat, even a model. Beautiful work a true craftsman, Bob you are amazing.
Very kind of you to share, most helpful for those of us planing to build a boat
Enjoying your build series, thanks.Can't wait to see it finished. It looks fantastic.
The finished boat is in the intro, if I'm not mistaken.
Very informative !
Glad it was helpful!
Suggestion: Make a block with a groove in the edge to hold your nails against as you drive them to keep them perpendicular to face.
I like your new planer. It should be up to the task and save some time to boot. Nice description of the layout for the garboard plank. Should fit as a pattern for the other side with a little trimming. The white cedar looks to be a good material to plank the boat with.
Nice video! I love the building details you give!
Every new project calls for a new tool !!! LOL
I use a remote 220 volt transmitter and fob for my dust collector.
Great idea Jim. I assume your collector is 220?
Excellent Bob! This video is "dedicated" to every smart-ass high school math student who ever sarcastically whined to their teacher'; "When am I ever going to use this stuff?" DD
ha!
Oh yes, putting descriptive geometry to work. That's a good thing for sheet metal work. It even fit the first time. YES SIR.
nice video
Fascinating pair of vids on spiling. Really enjoying the series. I know it works, but the dividers look awkward to me with that dogleg on them.
Don't know but I "think" the dogleg is to let the dividers reach into the bottom of the rabbit.
@@edbourgoine5022 Ah, I think I see. Yep, got it, thank you.
Thanks for all of the explanation you have provided. How do you get the angle/bevel of the cut on each plank so that it meets up without the gap? Or do you leave the gap in the expectation of installing cotton (or some other) caulking?
Thanks.
Now I know who put the "skill" in skill saw! DD
I can see that a trim Carpenter could adapt your method of spiling when traditional methods of scribing don't work. There have been a couple times I've had to improvise spiling/scribing when infilling between to surfaces. Wainscoting and brick comes to mind. I used a "scribe block" similar to the spiling block you describe. I didn't have a bent leg divider but after seeing have you put it to use, I'm going to make one for my kit. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks. So in return I would like to offer a little advise. I notice you are using short saw horses. I used them also but only when I have to actually machine a board. That way I'm standing above the tool and have a better sight line. When I'm doing layout i work on a horses that are about 6"taller. There's less stopping, and to me a better site line for transferring marks and lines. And as seems for your craft as I'm mine, we spend appreciably more time laying out, especially when accuracy counts than actual milling with the tools. Your back will thank you. Great teaching videos.
I can never get that kind of precision and control with a circular saw. Part of it is that I have a right-handed saw, and I'm right-handed. It's awkward. You mentioned this problem in another video. But it's also just big and heavy, and it's not easy to control. My jigsaw feels a bit better, but it'll walk off the line pretty easily. I can cut near the line and then plane it down. I have less control with my bandsaw. I see that you set the blade on your circular saw only as deep as necessary, so I'm sure that would make a difference. I'll try that next time. Also, they do make smaller circular saws, which might make cutting a curved line easier. And they have battery-powered ones, too! That cord is always an issue.
You need to wear ear-protection using the planer. Nice work.
Fantastic! I do have a question about your lumber. Do you expect to be able to use the thinner piece off of your re-saw? Too bad it wasn’t like 1 1/4 thick but I all too well know we have to use what lumber we can get. I’m so glad you are doing such detail on spiling and planking. Cheers!
I believe the thinner piece can be used for the following/next pattern.
good idea! that or maybe on interior, bulkhead or otherwise later
I know, right. Maybe line a closet? sure smells good. Most likely use it for a boat related sculpture.
HI, during the design stage of the hull, do you have to consider how the plank will fill on each stage (rib) from the transom to the stem? I mean the geometry of the plank will allways adapt to the curvature of the hull?
I almost hate to say this.... because I love the manual approach to showing us the calculation for the intersection of pipes... But have you looked at Fusion 360? ;-)
Geometric construction is valuable even if you are using CAD software. It is a vanishing art. One should learn these techniques before being allowed to use CAD.
With a suitable plank planed to thickness, can you estimate how many hours are involved in getting a garboard ready to attach to the hull. I am curious as to how long I can expect it will take to spile, mark, cut, trim and fit a garboard on a Haven 12 1/2?
With some practice getting a garboard ready to offer up to the boat should take about 2-3 hours. As the port garboard is a template for the starboard (or visa vera) a beginner should be able to hang both garboards in a day. The more experienced can easily install several strakes in a day.
Hope that helps.
As a side note for time involved. One of my boat builders in my online clinic that has build a Haven 12 1/2, and kept track of his time, he completed the boat in about 1200 hours. He is an experienced woodworked, however this was his first boat.
Want to know more? www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you Bob for your prompt reply. You have provided good info. I am currently building a 12' Lawley Yacht Tender. I have been studying all of your videos closely as I work my way through the build. They have been very helpful. I have learned a lot.
Mobile base would be nice for the planer.
Indeed. Thankfully it came with retractable casters!
Really enjoying the splinting in these videos, very informative. Just 1 question and it is about the duck work you did : how did you attach the 45 if you had no tabs to screw into, well I did not see any or did you do something different? But again the splinting is helping me with the wooden model boat that I'm trying to build to scale. So keep up the great work.
He made the template with tabs and then cut the hole without them. I had to rewind a couple of times to pick that up. When he is screwing it in it makes sense.
The hole I cut was about a 1/2 inch smaller on each side to accept the sheet metal screws. Not show in the video, however I did seal the seam with aluminum duct tape. Made it much stronger and seal any air leaks.
Thanks!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I was surprised you didn't add 6 or 8 tabs to the pattern before you cut it out of the paper.
Bob, I guessed I missed it somewhere but are all the planks going to be cedar?
Yes, they are all cedar.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding What type of cedar is it?
@@andysparks7381 Atlantic White Cedar
whats sheet metal work got to do with carvel planking?
Installing the debris extraction on the new planer to thickness the planks used to do the carvil planking.
Looks like flat sawn lumber??
The first 9 1/2 minutes is sheetmetal working on a title "Carvel Planking Part 2, Fitting the Garboard". Next vid could you maybe do pottery?
What's pottery got to do with planking? Setting up the tools needed/required to do a job is part of the job.
Too complicated on the ductwork! Get a 5" lateral ( 45 degree tee) install it and then get it make a 5 to 4 transition. Wa la!
#voila
@@trinitytoo attaching a tube (sleave) to a larger tube (body of the shirt, jacket, or sweater). Nice comment. My mom spent time as a seamstress to put herself through nursing school.
10 min for connection of saw dust vacuum my god
the drawing is obviously wrong, as a cardioid is a concave shape while the intersection of two cylinder is not ... but fortunately you did not follow the drawing and just cut by feel (or other unfilmed prototyping mean)...
??? I’m not quite sure what you’re getting at. Bob doesn’t seem to be the kind of guy to show something in a video and then do something different off camera to make it work. I’ve never plotted out the intersection lines of tubing as in this video but am sure going to try it out. Expanding my dust collection system just got a whole lot cheaper.
Thank You for the info Bob. I appreciate the advise.
@@sxsboy2253 i'm not quite sure what you're getting at either : maybe if you did the plotting or thought about it a bit before commenting you'd knew what you're writing about, or even only compare the initial drawing with what he actually cut with the wheel hand tool... nothing wrong with what he does, I'm sure he realized he as he went and adapted as he proceeded, I mentioned it in case people want to replicate the procedure.
@@n1352-m1i anyone who has fit different sized tubing or pipes together, welding up a roll-cage for instance, knows this dip in the top of the smaller tube makes for a tighter fit and less welding. The sides of the added tube must reach around the sides of the parent tube or you get gaps.
@@thomasarussellsr I'm not saying that you can't bend metal to fit for some welding technique and specific purpose - here it's not the case, the initial drawing is about projection geometry, and a point may have been forgotten, a projection angle confusion or something, to produce the first cardioid ~6'15", then ~7'15" one can see the gap at the top, and when closing the gap the paper tube has to be flattened and is not a cylinder anymore, then the hole ~7'30" is not cut according to the cardioid but using a convex shape. A quick search gives some sites that provide more infos about cylinders intersections (different diameters , with or without intersection axis ...) e.g. www.joshuanava.biz/geometric/intersection-of-regular-solids.html
@@n1352-m1i okay, that makes more mathematical sense. Thank you, I understand what you are saying now.
Look up a video on notching pipes to build a roll-cage. This will explain what I was trying to say. I am not a professional pipe fitter, but I do have the mathematical background to visualize the curve of the main pipe into a adjoining pipe and what that would look like flattened out into a 2-D shape.
Again, thanks for describing your point of view. It is refreshing to see intelligent conversation instead of the average person who resorts to name calling.