The best mod I ever did to my 2010 replaces the factory exhaust with a Delkevic Tri oval, it is a two-piece design and takes one minute to remove the can when removing the rear wheel.
Thanks for putting this online. The oxygen sensor was causing me real problems, but your advice made things SO easy. Really appreciate all your Deauville videos, so useful for us amateurs. As an aside, your bike is absolutely mint. You must have very clean rain and roads in the US!!
Also, that second mounting clip that holds the O2 wire connection to the frame is a true PIA that is easily removed from the clip. Life will go on without it...
A great video as usual. I managed to get an Allen key onto the heat shield bolt, through the hole in the footpeg bracket, but loosening the bracket made it all easier. Biggest problem I've had (so far), is I've sheared 2 of the heatshield bolts off. Not having been off for 8 years they'd rusted good and solid. I've soaked the muffler to down pipe clamp bolts in "releasing" fluid and hope they come off OK tomorrow.
Grazie ai tuoi video mi sono fatto coraggio e ho eseguito il lavoro come hai fatte tu ,purtroppo io non capisco la tua lingua ma il video è fatto bene e ho capito ugualmente ,grazie ancora ciao.
I used a ratcheting box wrench to remove the rear axle nut I have a long one that works mint for that didn’t need to remove the exhaust and I was able to remove the axle nut and just slide the axle bolt out enough so I could remove the caliper off the disc to replace the pads and reinstalling was a breeze 👍🏻
Maybe repeating a comment; you forgot to mention the O2 sensor wire is being held in place by a hidden clip under the bike, that's why it doesn't just drop free.
Excellent video once again thank you. I 'love' my NT700VA-7, but it's just a shame that to get to standard service parts you have to remove half the fairing and a load of other parts. I need to change my clutch plates and springs but to do so I must remove the right hand side fairings and the exhaust including at least one of the downpipes, but none of the videos seem to cover the downpipes...
Incidentally, the hole in the footpeg bracket is big enough on my Deauville to remove the muffler mounting bolt and the exhaust shield bolt through the hole. Not been modified as far as I can see. Mine's a 2007 model.
I've got a 2009 model and was able to get a ball end Allen key in there no problem. May have scuffed the paint on the foot peg hanger but that's mostly down to the bolt being rust and worn.
Hi I have a nt700V I have done a rear tyre but I did not take the exhaust off I torque wrench from the other side and just held the big nut with a spanner
Just done a full service and a refurb on my 07 Deuville , love the bike for what it is but its got to be the biggest PITA of any bike to work on I've ever owned , it fights you all the way to the end with Honda design flaws and moisture traps leading to seized on nuts and bolts that you have to destroy to get off in some cases , nearly everything is awkward to get to or you have to strip the fairing off just to do simple maintenance tasks , copper greased all threads now so should be easier next time .
tight as you can get, it is dangerous. Even slightly over tight ruins the wheelbearings. Ball bearings cannot tolerate radial loads.. people tighten axle nuts so tight, they must think it Hass to be tight enough to hold up the Brooklyn bridge.. on some machines, overtightening the axle nuts crush is a spacer between the inner races of the bearings, putting radial loading on the ball bearings.. they won’t last long at all.. that nut will come off using a large crescent wrench..
couldn't you use a crescent wrench on the nut and a allen t handle on the other side to take out the shaft?? and to torque it down get the socket with the right allen head in it and torque it to spec???
Two options - take muffler off first time and bang out your own indent (not my preference), or use a box wrench on the muffler side and a torque wrench on the shaft side. Who says you have to have the torque wrench on the muffler side? Torque specs is torque specs regardless of what side you're applying the torque to. Hand tight the nut on the muffler side, use a rubber mallet to tap the axle through completely, then torque it down using the nut on the shaft side. It ain't rocket science to make things as easy as possible when given a crap situation at first glance. Sometimes you can put a bar through the spokes of a wheel that act as a stop for the box wrench while you torque the shaft side down, so you have both hands available for the actual tightening and torquing. (too many years dealing with the hoops a manufacturer tries to make you jump through - there's always an alternate method)
I hear ya man! I was thinking the same thing, but my videos are based on the manual procedures for reference. I would think you would be fine with tightening the axle side, however... it gives more resistance going through the assembly resulting in an inaccurate torque value. The manual states tighten axle "nut" but is it really that critical? Maybe not, but I showed the whole procedure and this was my first time going through the motions. I will say... getting the exhaust out of the way makes getting at the caliper a hell of a lot easier so I am thinking the extra time it takes to remove the exhaust may pay off later. Anyway.... it's always good to get tips, tricks and suggestions so that viewers have options. Thanks!
@@Soundtechguy doing something dumb just because the manual says to do it that way is worse than dumb. Are you a lemming or what? You seem pretty intelligent but I have to wonder. KISS: keep it SIMPLE.... Now, having seen this, I know I don't want one of these over-engineered bikes. Even my 86 Honda scooter required exhaust removal to remove the rear wheel. Yet my 77 KZ650 had upswept pipes and it wasn't an issue, and the air filter was right under the seat; none of this removing the gas tank just to replace the air filter BS like the newer bikes. You'd think that they'd try to keep the simple things simple as time goes on. Making things harder to access improves NOTHING but the money which goes out of your pocket when getting service done.
Too much time spent on axle nut removal ---an open ended wrench does the trick. On re-installation, just tighten the crap out of it. Absolutely no need to use a Dremel tool to enlarge the casting aperture as there is plenty of room to get an Allen wrench in.
The best mod I ever did to my 2010 replaces the factory exhaust with a Delkevic Tri oval, it is a two-piece design and takes one minute to remove the can when removing the rear wheel.
Thanks for putting this online. The oxygen sensor was causing me real problems, but your advice made things SO easy. Really appreciate all your Deauville videos, so useful for us amateurs. As an aside, your bike is absolutely mint. You must have very clean rain and roads in the US!!
All your videos have been a great help. I have used almost all of them doing the maintenance. Thanks again !
to remove the rear wheel use a 27mm open end/ring spanner, or the 27mm one that comes in the bikes toolkit! no need to disturb the exhaust system.
The U.S. model NT700 didn’t come with a tool kit.
Also, that second mounting clip that holds the O2 wire connection to the frame is a true PIA that is easily removed from the clip. Life will go on without it...
Honda reliability is awesome, but ease of service and maintenance can be challenging.
A great video as usual. I managed to get an Allen key onto the heat shield bolt, through the hole in the footpeg bracket, but loosening the bracket made it all easier. Biggest problem I've had (so far), is I've sheared 2 of the heatshield bolts off. Not having been off for 8 years they'd rusted good and solid. I've soaked the muffler to down pipe clamp bolts in "releasing" fluid and hope they come off OK tomorrow.
Nah... I’m just a maniac when it comes to clean bikes. LOL
It still looks that way! 😆
Grazie ai tuoi video mi sono fatto coraggio e ho eseguito il lavoro come hai fatte tu ,purtroppo io non capisco la tua lingua ma il video è fatto bene e ho capito ugualmente ,grazie ancora ciao.
I used a ratcheting box wrench to remove the rear axle nut I have a long one that works mint for that didn’t need to remove the exhaust and I was able to remove the axle nut and just slide the axle bolt out enough so I could remove the caliper off the disc to replace the pads and reinstalling was a breeze 👍🏻
Maybe repeating a comment; you forgot to mention the O2 sensor wire is being held in place by a hidden clip under the bike, that's why it doesn't just drop free.
Excellent video once again thank you. I 'love' my NT700VA-7, but it's just a shame that to get to standard service parts you have to remove half the fairing and a load of other parts. I need to change my clutch plates and springs but to do so I must remove the right hand side fairings and the exhaust including at least one of the downpipes, but none of the videos seem to cover the downpipes...
I totally agree. It’s is a nice little bike, but certainly time consuming to work on. Makes me miss the naked bikes of the 70’s that for sure. Ugh!
Incidentally, the hole in the footpeg bracket is big enough on my Deauville to remove the muffler mounting bolt and the exhaust shield bolt through the hole. Not been modified as far as I can see. Mine's a 2007 model.
I've got a 2009 model and was able to get a ball end Allen key in there no problem. May have scuffed the paint on the foot peg hanger but that's mostly down to the bolt being rust and worn.
Hi I have a nt700V I have done a rear tyre but I did not take the exhaust off I torque wrench from the other side and just held the big nut with a spanner
Just done a full service and a refurb on my 07 Deuville , love the bike for what it is but its got to be the biggest PITA of any bike to work on I've ever owned , it fights you all the way to the end with Honda design flaws and moisture traps leading to seized on nuts and bolts that you have to destroy to get off in some cases , nearly everything is awkward to get to or you have to strip the fairing off just to do simple maintenance tasks , copper greased all threads now so should be easier next time .
tight as you can get, it is dangerous. Even slightly over tight ruins the wheelbearings. Ball bearings cannot tolerate radial loads..
people tighten axle nuts so tight, they must think it Hass to be tight enough to hold up the Brooklyn bridge.. on some machines, overtightening the axle nuts crush is a spacer between the inner races of the bearings, putting radial loading on the ball bearings.. they won’t last long at all..
that nut will come off using a large crescent wrench..
couldn't you use a crescent wrench on the nut and a allen t handle on the other side to take out the shaft?? and to torque it down get the socket with the right allen head in it and torque it to spec???
Absolutely no need to use a Dremel to enlarge the aperture----use an M5 Allen Key to undo the bolt and then use a magnet to get the recessed bolt out.
Two options - take muffler off first time and bang out your own indent (not my preference), or use a box wrench on the muffler side and a torque wrench on the shaft side. Who says you have to have the torque wrench on the muffler side? Torque specs is torque specs regardless of what side you're applying the torque to. Hand tight the nut on the muffler side, use a rubber mallet to tap the axle through completely, then torque it down using the nut on the shaft side. It ain't rocket science to make things as easy as possible when given a crap situation at first glance. Sometimes you can put a bar through the spokes of a wheel that act as a stop for the box wrench while you torque the shaft side down, so you have both hands available for the actual tightening and torquing. (too many years dealing with the hoops a manufacturer tries to make you jump through - there's always an alternate method)
I hear ya man! I was thinking the same thing, but my videos are based on the manual procedures for reference. I would think you would be fine with tightening the axle side, however... it gives more resistance going through the assembly resulting in an inaccurate torque value. The manual states tighten axle "nut" but is it really that critical? Maybe not, but I showed the whole procedure and this was my first time going through the motions. I will say... getting the exhaust out of the way makes getting at the caliper a hell of a lot easier so I am thinking the extra time it takes to remove the exhaust may pay off later. Anyway.... it's always good to get tips, tricks and suggestions so that viewers have options. Thanks!
@@Soundtechguy doing something dumb just because the manual says to do it that way is worse than dumb. Are you a lemming or what? You seem pretty intelligent but I have to wonder. KISS: keep it SIMPLE.... Now, having seen this, I know I don't want one of these over-engineered bikes. Even my 86 Honda scooter required exhaust removal to remove the rear wheel. Yet my 77 KZ650 had upswept pipes and it wasn't an issue, and the air filter was right under the seat; none of this removing the gas tank just to replace the air filter BS like the newer bikes. You'd think that they'd try to keep the simple things simple as time goes on. Making things harder to access improves NOTHING but the money which goes out of your pocket when getting service done.
If the 1st 2 mins of waffle about loosening the axle nut was omitted, the video wouldn’t be too bad.
has anybody put up a vidoi for replacing the headlight bulb
Too much time spent on axle nut removal ---an open ended wrench does the trick.
On re-installation, just tighten the crap out of it.
Absolutely no need to use a Dremel tool to enlarge the casting aperture as there is plenty of room to get an Allen wrench in.
il existe des clés a oeil hihi