This explains why I can barely find Ann D pieces in retailers anymore, especially online. I figured Antonioli purchasing the brand had something to do with it, but it’s good to know the exact reason.
I just want to see Ann D doing a bow at the end of Ann D you fashion shows. Just a glimpse of her. I think I was one of the many who got excited when the news came out of her coming back. But the level of her involvement is still vague. Still, it is a great news. Imagine if Margiela did the same thing now. 😱
Looking forward to seeing what Ann continues to do with homeware and furniture, but for me the acquisition of her label by Antonioli alongside the axing of 46/48 of the original Belgian design team (including Meunier) symbolizes the death of the clothing side of her house. She's admitted that she's not intending to get involved with the clothing side of collections and the replacement of a vast majority of the creative team and shift of the production/house to Milan in my mind represents a loss of the soul of the brand.
I suspect the clothing will become vapid and souless, with the vast majority of pieces from the recent "FW21" collection just being archival reproductions of old Ann collections.
I can definitely agree. Some people did like the new collection because they missed the old Ann D aesthetic and prefer it to Meunier’s time at the brand but I don’t think rehashing old Ann D is a sustainable model. Considering Claudio said he wants a team feel and no creative director I’m just wondering how they’re going to innovate past bringing back old Ann D pieces but we shall see. I’m just happy she’s involved in the process so it can only be so bad.
I mean the Margiela fragrance license is owned by L’Oreal so I don’t think being avant is really the M.O. the Replica fragrances are actually pretty cheap and mass market smelling compared to what they could be if they were being really creatively produced. If Demeulemeester intend to keep things like perfumes in-house then yeah I expect they will probably be a lot more interesting.
@@UCNTZ CdG fragrances are split into two groups, the larger group of fragrances (typically the ones that come in the pebble shaped bottles but also the Play series and a bunch of others) are produced under license by a Spanish fragrance conglomerate called Puig. There remain a small number of CdG fragrances which are produced by CdG themselves like Daphne for instance. Back in the day the whole line was in-house produced and they worked a lot with the perfumer Mark Buxton who composed a lot of their most well known stuff before they were sold off. A lot of designer fragrances are produced under license by other companies. Typically by one of a handful of major companies like L’Oreal, LVMH, Estée Lauder, Proctor&Gamble, Coty, Givaudan and and few others.
There are rare exceptions where the perfumes are produced in-house, Dior Parfums is a subsidiary of Dior which is owned by LVMH and largely operates within the Dior ecosphere and have their own head perfumer, Louis Vuitton fragrances are produced in-house by a head perfumer too within the LVMH framework. Chanel and Hermes also operate completely in-house and independent perfume arms of their companies with their own head perfumers. There are a few others but they’re not common. Either the company has to be big enough and have enough money to operate its own perfume production, or small enough that they can’t really sell their beauty license. The rest sell the licenses to their beauty brands because it’s highly lucrative to do so and most fashion brands don’t have the resources to run it by themselves.
On the subject of Flemish designers Dries Van Noten recently sold their perfumes license to Puig too, necessitating the discontinuation of a fragrance with Dries’ name attached owned by a smaller formerly independent, now Lauder owned brand called Frederic Malle. So a new bunch of Dries fragrances should be in the near future too.
@@PrincipalSkinner3190 hrm.. but off-white isn't much of a flex now its always on sale its lost its luster and remember hermes has the H belt which is very popular and click clack bracelet.
@@Mainlyrock__1017 Yeah true, but you said popular, so I was going based on popularity. Of course Hèrmes is a better flex, but people who aren't really into fashion and just wanna flex still wear a lot of Off-White. Wait nvm, we forgot Dior. Dior has to make it lol.
A lot of brands are very particular of who they give stockist accounts to. Depending on the store and what other brands are also carried. Some brands will refuse you if certain brands are stocked in store. Ann under meunier was given to all and sundry, thus in some way making it too oversaturated, needless to say quality dipped a lot. I think Antonioli will still have select multi brand boutiques/stores stocking the brand as well as the stand alone stores he wants to launch.
This is very true although (not mentioning any names) I’m quite connected to 3 stores that used to stock Ann D and it got pulled from their stores and to me at least they have the aesthetic that you would associate with the brand and they put it alongside brands like Yohji, Boris, Julius, etc. Will be interesting to see what direction they go in. What I will say is these stores I have some connects with have a sour taste in their mouth with how they were treated when the brand was pulled from their stores so they aren’t relationships that can potentially be rebuilt
@@FashionRoadman completely agree. Especially if a store has been supporting the brand for years. It’s an unfortunate truth of this side of the industry. Sometimes it’s business, sometimes it’s personal. Bridges really shouldn’t be burnt in such a ruthless way. On the other hand, you have to be a bit savage if you want to re allign the brand as theyabre trying to do. Sometimes it could even be down to people not liking the store interior/design etc. It’s mad but it’s the unfortunate truth. There is a lot of politics between stores too.
Yeah I know the Antwerp 6:
RAF
Rick Owens
Supreme
Pacson
Uniqlo x
Palm angles
And the honorary member: Heron Preston
Yo supreme is my favourite designer
His shows are so interesting And avant garden
@@gabrielepirovano3529 you heard of this Virgil guy heard he’s next up
@@UCNTZ they used to call me Virgil in school too :)
Nice guys, always taking my lunch to make sure I didn’t gain weight :)
@@UCNTZ YES! Such an underrated designer!
This explains why I can barely find Ann D pieces in retailers anymore, especially online. I figured Antonioli purchasing the brand had something to do with it, but it’s good to know the exact reason.
I would love a video on your wardrobe esthetic.
Yeeees!
pls!!
me too
Same
Ann D store in Antwerp is stunning! You will love it!
I just want to see Ann D doing a bow at the end of Ann D you fashion shows. Just a glimpse of her. I think I was one of the many who got excited when the news came out of her coming back. But the level of her involvement is still vague. Still, it is a great news. Imagine if Margiela did the same thing now. 😱
I am glad she is back!! I have a jacket from her I bought through The Real Real. Love it!!! Even as a teenager I always loved her aesthetic.
that hat is gorgeous !! I always felt like the brand always did the color red very beautifully amidst all the black clothes
Glad you did this! She’s so slept on!!
The shade on her son at the end, God bless Ayo
Looking forward to seeing what Ann continues to do with homeware and furniture, but for me the acquisition of her label by Antonioli alongside the axing of 46/48 of the original Belgian design team (including Meunier) symbolizes the death of the clothing side of her house.
She's admitted that she's not intending to get involved with the clothing side of collections and the replacement of a vast majority of the creative team and shift of the production/house to Milan in my mind represents a loss of the soul of the brand.
I suspect the clothing will become vapid and souless, with the vast majority of pieces from the recent "FW21" collection just being archival reproductions of old Ann collections.
I can definitely agree. Some people did like the new collection because they missed the old Ann D aesthetic and prefer it to Meunier’s time at the brand but I don’t think rehashing old Ann D is a sustainable model. Considering Claudio said he wants a team feel and no creative director I’m just wondering how they’re going to innovate past bringing back old Ann D pieces but we shall see. I’m just happy she’s involved in the process so it can only be so bad.
Great hearing your thoughts about this. I immediately though of checking your channel when I heard the news
pleaseeeee do some videos or vlogs if you do visit the store in antwerp!
That’s the plan. Thinking of vlogging most days I’m out there
I mean the Margiela fragrance license is owned by L’Oreal so I don’t think being avant is really the M.O. the Replica fragrances are actually pretty cheap and mass market smelling compared to what they could be if they were being really creatively produced. If Demeulemeester intend to keep things like perfumes in-house then yeah I expect they will probably be a lot more interesting.
Do you know if this is the same for other similar brands like comme fragrance? Or just MMM
@@UCNTZ CdG fragrances are split into two groups, the larger group of fragrances (typically the ones that come in the pebble shaped bottles but also the Play series and a bunch of others) are produced under license by a Spanish fragrance conglomerate called Puig. There remain a small number of CdG fragrances which are produced by CdG themselves like Daphne for instance. Back in the day the whole line was in-house produced and they worked a lot with the perfumer Mark Buxton who composed a lot of their most well known stuff before they were sold off. A lot of designer fragrances are produced under license by other companies. Typically by one of a handful of major companies like L’Oreal, LVMH, Estée Lauder, Proctor&Gamble, Coty, Givaudan and and few others.
There are rare exceptions where the perfumes are produced in-house, Dior Parfums is a subsidiary of Dior which is owned by LVMH and largely operates within the Dior ecosphere and have their own head perfumer, Louis Vuitton fragrances are produced in-house by a head perfumer too within the LVMH framework. Chanel and Hermes also operate completely in-house and independent perfume arms of their companies with their own head perfumers. There are a few others but they’re not common. Either the company has to be big enough and have enough money to operate its own perfume production, or small enough that they can’t really sell their beauty license. The rest sell the licenses to their beauty brands because it’s highly lucrative to do so and most fashion brands don’t have the resources to run it by themselves.
On the subject of Flemish designers Dries Van Noten recently sold their perfumes license to Puig too, necessitating the discontinuation of a fragrance with Dries’ name attached owned by a smaller formerly independent, now Lauder owned brand called Frederic Malle. So a new bunch of Dries fragrances should be in the near future too.
Thank-you for the knowledge, very interesting read, is it more likely that the brands that just sell licenses too have lesser fragrances?
I've been to the store in Antwerp. So stylish
10:46 😅😅
Interesting to see the brand's future.
The dynamics of promo... That's going to be an interesting formula to see.
Cool, i live in a country next to belgium so i might visit the store soon too!
I have the boots in the thumbnail and I smile whenever I see them online
I know the top 6 popular designer brands people flex:
Gucci
Louis vuitton
prada
Chanel
Balenciaga
Hermes
I call them the flex popular 6
I'd put off-white over Hèrmes. Hèrmes doesn't have enough logos to flex aside from the belt and only the super rich have Birkins.
@@PrincipalSkinner3190 hrm.. but off-white isn't much of a flex now its always on sale its lost its luster and remember hermes has the H belt which is very popular and click clack bracelet.
@@Mainlyrock__1017 Yeah true, but you said popular, so I was going based on popularity. Of course Hèrmes is a better flex, but people who aren't really into fashion and just wanna flex still wear a lot of Off-White. Wait nvm, we forgot Dior. Dior has to make it lol.
A lot of brands are very particular of who they give stockist accounts to. Depending on the store and what other brands are also carried. Some brands will refuse you if certain brands are stocked in store. Ann under meunier was given to all and sundry, thus in some way making it too oversaturated, needless to say quality dipped a lot. I think Antonioli will still have select multi brand boutiques/stores stocking the brand as well as the stand alone stores he wants to launch.
This is very true although (not mentioning any names) I’m quite connected to 3 stores that used to stock Ann D and it got pulled from their stores and to me at least they have the aesthetic that you would associate with the brand and they put it alongside brands like Yohji, Boris, Julius, etc. Will be interesting to see what direction they go in. What I will say is these stores I have some connects with have a sour taste in their mouth with how they were treated when the brand was pulled from their stores so they aren’t relationships that can potentially be rebuilt
@@FashionRoadman completely agree. Especially if a store has been supporting the brand for years. It’s an unfortunate truth of this side of the industry. Sometimes it’s business, sometimes it’s personal. Bridges really shouldn’t be burnt in such a ruthless way. On the other hand, you have to be a bit savage if you want to re allign the brand as theyabre trying to do. Sometimes it could even be down to people not liking the store interior/design etc. It’s mad but it’s the unfortunate truth. There is a lot of politics between stores too.
✊🏿 learnt a lot from this video, specifically more about Sebastian himself
The hat is amazing :D
The only thing better Andy being back is Ayo making videos again
Hi, can you recommend some nice literature on on AD please? 🙏🏻🤩
I just read about this on FashionUnited.
The Best is Gone
I like this designer masterful
Any thoughts on the shade Ann D's husband was throwing when he was talking about the Meunier era?
where did you get this source?
@@j.cocteau6945 from the hftgroup ig post Ayo mentioned
Wasn’t her son still involved with the brand when Meunier was cd?
Couldn't care less about homeware but the fragrance could be cool.
Have fun in Antwerp on Wednesday 😜
Thanks! I’m actually in Antwerp now and I’ll be here till Thursday
ily
🖤
Andy 😂 why u do her like that
I was onboard until the perfum.
Somehow I thought she already had one - confused.