Thanks for the video on the M10. I'm impressed that roaster was able to handle a full load of 1.2kg. Others have reported tripping the breaker at full power on the M10. Are you running 110v or 220v. I have the 110v roaster and have never tripped the breaker but I also have never roasted at over 80%.
Great job as always, one thing I always notice when you roast with the same Kaleido I have is how much cleaner and less smoke in 5he room you get. Whenever I do A larger roast (I like running 6 to 800 grams ) but when I drop a medium dark i get a ton of smoke in my little shop and lots of chaff blow out through the cooling fans. Oh and ya just left my front guard off after replacing a heat element. Also notice the build up of chaff inside the machine.
Does your roaster have the metal grates between the chaff tray and the drum? I usually don’t roast darker than 16%. My drum speed is pretty high which knocks off the chaff. I also have air turned up pretty high after first crack, which will suck out chaff before the end of the roast. Thanks for watching!
With my FR SR800, my target is about where you hit this one as far as weight loss. My last roast of Honduras beans was 18% and has a very good taste. I can taste the caramel most in my roast. Right now I am drinking some of the same beans I stopped at a medium roast. Still good coffee. So many variables with this hobby. In my short hobby of roasting, I have done only one roast I put in the trash. I let the beans get past second crack and before I could get them cooled, road tar.
Hi, thanks for the video, was so helpfull for me, I have the same roaster for 8 months, roasting 900 g batch of Colombia washed Geisha 1800m, and Castillo 1400m, will appreciate some tips for these particular coffes, thanks
Hello Fidel, thanks for watching. 900 grams gives you more room to be creative with your profiles. Density plays a big roll in how aggressive we can get with our heat. The roast level and balance play a big roll in total roast time and how we craft our profile to maximize flavor, acidity, development, etc.. I'll see how I can incorporate how to approach different coffee's based on all of these factors. Honestly, each of my videos addresses "why" I am roasting a particular coffee a certain way. I would encourage you to listed for that as I discuss my roasting approach. Of course the type of roaster plays a huge roll in the "why".
Hi Dan, I’m using a reducer from grainger www.grainger.com/product/JET-Dust-Collector-Reducer-Sleeve-48RJ24 with some mods. I used tin snips to cut slices in the 2” and so it could flare with the tapered exhaust tube. I used radiator clamps to secure
I enjoyed watching this roast. Personally, for my comsumption, I would never roast that many beans. That would keep me from using the roaster as I could not drink coffee that fast. lol.
Do you have a running list of coffee you have roasted on the Kaleido with temperature data? I am starting out and was hoping to get a starting point for new coffees.
Hello Dpac, thanks for watching. Basically, you roaster temperatures are going to be different than mine. They could be close or maybe not. I do have several roasting profiles I've shared. I think there are 2 i did with the Kaleido M10 and 2 for the M2. You can download them for free here: buymeacoffee.com/virtualcoffeelab/extras I would suggest you watch this video ua-cam.com/video/5Km0gLC3BKo/v-deo.html which explains why your roaster and mine display different temps and what you can do to unlock the profile. Are you a new home coffee roaster? Are you roasting manually or with the auto roast?
I have a Kaleido M10 with a NEMA 5-15 plug (for 110V). I've modified my home to support 220V. Do I need to make any changes to my machine's plug, and if so, how can I safely do that?
Hello Rodrigo. I'm roasting with a 220v setup and using a lockable plug. It's the kind you insert into the wall receptacle and then twist about 20 degrees to lock it so it can't get knocked/pulled out by mistake. I think it is the NEMA L6-20 plug. I'm not sure if the electrical board is specifically designed for 220 or 110. You should check with the supplier you purchased the roaster from. I had an electrician install my 220 from the main to the wall just for safety.
Nice roasting experiment. I have the equivalent of a 5lb roaster (BlueKing 2.5kg) and rarely go over 2kg batches. My challenge is getting sufficient gas to the roaster and therefore getting insufficient heating, as I only roast on a LPG "portable" bottle system (45kg bottles) I have profiles where I can roast up to 2200g, without compromising roast times too significantly. On my roaster, my BBP is to soak for a few minutes and the gas cuts out at 240*C and back on at 238, and I run at that for about 2 minutes and on low fan to really build up the heat contained in the roasting chamber. Then after charge I'll open the fan to the point just before it strips heat out of the drum, so I'm maximising convection transfer to the bean mass. Out of interest do you have a "regular" profile to this coffee, and were your milestones/ percentages in each phase in the same on a regular/smaller roast? Does your cupping show any differences between the coffees roasted in shorter / longer roasts ? I'm expecting there to be some, even at the same roast depth...
Hi Brett - Thanks for sharing your setup and Between Batch Protocol info. I have not done a darker roast with this coffee using a smaller batch size. If I did, I believe the profile would be different because I would have to use a lower charge temperature and power settings to accomplish the same total roast time. My regular profile for this coffee is different because I usually roast this coffee to a medium roast level with about 13.5% moisture loss and my total roast time for that roast is 11 minutes. Phase percentages are 46/36/18. Are you asking if I have ever experimented with roasting the same coffee using the same ending color, drop temperature, and moisture loss BUT using different total roast times? I have done that and the coffee does taste different. I've noticed that longer roasts tend to have bigger body and will not be as complex. The tasting notes will be different. Depending on the Total roast time, the coffee can even taste kind of flat. I know I'm speaking in a general sense. I have had some viewers request I do a video about total roast time so you should see this topic come up in the near future. Let me know if I missed something in your question. Thanks for sharing and for watching Brett.
Awesome channel and content! What was the voltage at the outlet and is it reduced by the summer local AC draw? Is it making the roast take longer? I am running the SR800 and believe that my voltage at the outlet is reduced with the summer heat waves, causing my roast power to be reduced and roast times lasting longer...
Hello Zuner. I’m running 220v for my machine which is a 220 version. I created a dedicated 220v line/circut at the box going to a new 220v outlet on the wall. The air conditioner is on a separate meter and should not affect the draw.
@VirtualCoffeeLab I am referring to the reduced voltage at the outlet due to the electrical grid being heavily utilized during all these heat waves of summer. My SR800 is highly effected because my outlet (all home outlets) voltage falls from 121v down to as low as 113.8v during mid day. Therefore, your roast might also be slowed down due to the lowered voltage...?
@@ZuberEUC I use a Hottop roaster rated at 750 watts at 115V and I too am experiencing reduced voltage during the summer due to demand on the electrical grid. I plug my roaster into a wattmeter which displays the voltage while I'm roasting. There is definitely a difference in roast length during the seasons and I have seen voltage while the roaster is running from as high as 121V to as low as 115V. It will be interesting to see how low it goes as the summer goes on. I'm in Chicago.
I don't have a way to check the 220v but it has not been hot where I live so the grid is not overloaded. I generally roast in the evening btw. If I am able I'll figure out a way to test. My current meter plug is only setup for 110v
Hello! Thank you for this video! I bought the M10 gen 2 after a year of owning the M1. I can't seem to get the ROR on the M10 to go above 16C/min. I'm roasting at 500g batch, charge temp 180C. The ROR curve seems to be shallow despite roasting only at 50% capacity. Is this normal for the M10?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm usually at 45-50% power at charge temp 180C. Once the beans go in I drop the power to 0-10%, before turning it up again to 80-85% at Turning point. Even with the power at 0% after charge, my TP temp is still quite high. TP happens at around 1:00 @100C. It's also worth noting that the BT reads a bit lower on my M10S. Dry End @ 140C, FC @180.
Lower your charge temp to 170c and keep your power at 80% without turning power to 0. Your roaster isn’t designed for a soak. You should see a higher ror 20-25 peak and then start to come down a little before the dry event. Manage power so ror is around 20% at dry end.
I’ve been maxing out the Behmor 2000ab plus for the past 40 roasts, 454 grams.. Wish there was more heat and the auto-fan didn’t kick on at 7:30mins. And the other safety feature I wish there was a way to mod, it doesn’t let you turn roaster on if the temp is above 246 I’ve experienced.
Yea, so a 1 pound charge weight is max capacity for the Behmor. The only way to get shorted roast time Or to roast light on the Behmor is to lower your charge right to 1/2 lb or less. That will allow you to switch to 1/2 pound setting and the fan will come on at about 5 minutes.
I have roasted 2lbs with the m10 before and I used the peaberry from Tanzania. I used a lower power setting than you did here and it seemed like I hit second crack really quick. I heard first crack and then what I thought was still first crack it turned into a rolling second crack. Happened way faster than I planned. It was my 5th time using the m10 but I feel that my roasts go too fast. Any recommendations from your experience with this roaster? I want the development phase to last longer but haven’t figure out the settings for burner and air.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab My batch size has varied but I’ll be sticking to about 2lbs. I was using a charge temp of 340F, and that might not be high enough, but I’m still learning this machine. My desired roast is more of a Vienna Roast for the Tanzanian Peaberry, and I noticed that the BT didn’t get much over 400F and was already in second crack. I did not hear a moment between first and second crack and was shocked to see it already dark and oily when I thought I was still in first crack. I don’t have the temp readings for you. My apologies.
I would imaging your roasts last 12-14 minutes or longer with that charge temperature and batch size. Roasting 2 lbs (900 grams) I've charge my roaster as high as high as 425f/220c degrees with a drum speed of 90. This helps me get a higher initial rate of rise and a shorter total roast time than a lower charge temp of 340f/170c.
Great video as usual Mike. I love watching your content. How has your experience been with light roast on the m10! I’d love to see a video on your inputs of roasting light. I have tried so many different roasting approaches, drop temps, develop time, batch size, etc for nice light roast Ethiopians and I just can’t get anything good on them.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm roasting between 500g and 625g. Shooting for 12-13% moisture for light and around 13.5% for medium light. I usually hit my medium light moisture target with development around 17% but my flavors are not pleasent. It never tastes properly developed.
@@VirtualCoffeeLabat least a week and even longer sometimes. I use aeropress, kalita, v60, and hario switch all with similar issues. My last roast was 4:15 dry, 1C @ 7min, drop at 7:20 (195C at 1C drop at 201C).
This is difficult to determine Matt. Let's look at this from 2 different angles: First, the roast. There is a problem with the roast - You mentioned "ethiopians", but you didn't mention the process. I will assume the bean size is pretty small. The beans probably don't look super light. What are the notes you should be tasting. Is is a Yirgicheffe? Your moisture loss is in line with the roast level you mentioned. The one thing I noticed that I would do differently is to slow your roast down a little. Your total roat time of 7:20 is a little short for my tastes and you might find going longer may allow for more overall flavor development. Aim for a dry time of 4:30, a FC time of 7:30-7:45, and a drop at 8:30. I look at the phases, times, and percentages to help me set milestones BUT I also. take a step back and make sure my overall roast profile will allow time for the miallard reactions. I'm sure the coffee is really dense and you don't need to worry about roasting defects much. Also, with my M10, I'm cranking the air up pretty high towards the later part of the roast. I've found myself at 70% air in development. Of course this all depends on how much momentum you have. I'm curious, what is your ROR when you enter FC and when you drop the coffee? ok, the second angle is brewing. There is a problem with your extraction when brewing: You mentioned several different brewing methods. Are you able to measure Total Disolved Solids? What is your brew ratio ? Are you grinding fine enough? What kind of grinder are you using?
Hi , thanks for this. I have the same roaster and I tried doing 1.2 kg a few times and it takes well over 20 minutes-not good at all. Just curious, I have a 120v model is yours a 220-240 volt model? I would think so as you have 2600 watts worth of elements. I can manage roasts up to 900 g in about 14-15 minutes. I tried to get help from Kaleido and I did what they said but no success. I think it is due to being 120 volt?? Having said this I like the roaster but I had to lower my expectations. Thanks again. Very helpful.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I am not sure what sv means. I need to look at your channel and learn more 🙂. My charge temp is 220C and air is 0% until I drop the beans into the roaster then I have it at 15% and I don't adjust till first crack then I lower temp and more air so it slows ROR. Temp Return 76C @ 1:04/Dry End 131 @ 5:35/FC 198 @ 13:58/ FC End 201@15:16?Drop 202@15:42. Thanks.
Bruce, SV means "Set Value". That is the temperature setting you would select for your charge temp. Then, when you click "start heating", the roaster automatically heats up to that level and holds until you charge the roaster. For the M10 at full capacity, I turned my SV up to 230c which is max. Then at charge, I left the power at 100% with air at 10%. What was your power setting during the first 5 minutes of your roast? My Turning point temp was about 15 degrees higher than yours. That tells me your charge temp was like 210-220c? Does that sound about right? If you are running 110v that could be the difference, I'm not sure.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Okay great I appreciate the definition. My SV is 220C like you suggested and what I was doing for a lot of my roasts was charging the roaster and wait for the turning point and then work within the 85 to 100% range for power up until first crack. Next time I will try a full load (1.2KG) @ 230C for my SV and then I will use 10% for air till first crack and also use 100% power and see what will happen (at least this will give me a reference point). I will let up with more air and less power at first crack and beyond. What do you use for drum speed-on your video it seems to be fairly high? I am at 40% because I am trying to use conductive heat from the drum to help with heating the beans quicker?? Problem is when I use the tryer I need to speed up the drum to get beans to sit in there to look at. Do you think my drum speed should be adjusted to? Thanks.
Hi Michael. I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “safe”. One challenge of a very light load is getting coffee to fall into the trier. The other challenge is having enough beans touch the bean probe and getting good reliable temps. I would say 300 grams is about as low as I would go and honestly that makes the M10 a really flexible roaster. (300-1200 gram range)
in the roasting process what is the best way after or preparing for first crack to keep the blue et line from crashing? I'm still new to roasting and just trying to understand the process more
Hi Cory, The kaleido roasters have a similar design. The ET probe placement with the carbon fire heating elements do influence the readings. Is your question “how do I keep the blue line from crossing below the BT?” Let me know more of what you are referring and when so I can give a more complete answer.
@@VirtualCoffeeLabYes,my question was(how do I keep the blue line from crossing below the BT?”) I'm still very new to this but my roast seems to do good. then when I hit the first crack that line just starts plummeting below the other one.
Gotcha. Yea, this is a thing with the Kaleido. Like I mentioned, it seems to be inherent in their design and how far you have your probes pushed in. I've got both of my probes inserted 35mm inward. This is measured from the tip of the probe. FYI - Changing the probe positions will change your temperature readings. Depending on how you manage your heat during the roast, it is possible to keep the ET above the BT but my experience is the roast will have too much energy as you enter first crack. It's too much heat. So, i've gotten used to the ET dropping below. If you look at your ROR while this is going on you will notice the ROR is still in the positive. The BT and ROR are the numbers you should be watching during the development time.
Not really. I chose the M10 for it's capacity, features and cost. The Bullet has some great features as well. I especially like the Roastime software for it's ease of use and especially the homescreen which shows the summary of my recent roasts. Artisan doesn't have that. I also like how the chaff capacity of the Bullet is much greater than the M10. If you're looking for a recommendation I would say both roasters are a good decision. It all comes down to your needs, budget, and preference for the design and features. There is a big difference in price between the two. My M10 is plugged into a 220 outlet. I added that (additional cost) so I woundn't have to worry about blowing a fuse or something.
THANK YOU AS ALWAYS FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE IT IS A LOT OF HELP THANK YOU
Thank you for being part on my community Ulises. 😀
I’ve been having some trouble getting into second crack with some beans using my M6. You answered my question in the first two minutes. Thank you!!!
Awesome. I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video on the M10. I'm impressed that roaster was able to handle a full load of 1.2kg. Others have reported tripping the breaker at full power on the M10. Are you running 110v or 220v. I have the 110v roaster and have never tripped the breaker but I also have never roasted at over 80%.
I have the 220v version. I have a dedicated circuit booth and new 220v line.
I have not. Will try there. Thanks!
You bet 👍
Have kaldi mini max 250 grams I rost 225 at a time need more heat for max. Thanks for video
Thanks for watching and sharing John.
Great job as always, one thing I always notice when you roast with the same Kaleido I have is how much cleaner and less smoke in 5he room you get. Whenever I do A larger roast (I like running 6 to 800 grams ) but when I drop a medium dark i get a ton of smoke in my little shop and lots of chaff blow out through the cooling fans. Oh and ya just left my front guard off after replacing a heat element. Also notice the build up of chaff inside the machine.
Does your roaster have the metal grates between the chaff tray and the drum? I usually don’t roast darker than 16%. My drum speed is pretty high which knocks off the chaff. I also have air turned up pretty high after first crack, which will suck out chaff before the end of the roast.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Mike, what electrical plug did you get for the M10? 120 or 220 volt? Thanks!
Hi Jaycobb, thanks for watching. My roaster is setup for 220.
With my FR SR800, my target is about where you hit this one as far as weight loss. My last roast of Honduras beans was 18% and has a very good taste. I can taste the caramel most in my roast. Right now I am drinking some of the same beans I stopped at a medium roast. Still good coffee. So many variables with this hobby. In my short hobby of roasting, I have done only one roast I put in the trash. I let the beans get past second crack and before I could get them cooled, road tar.
Only one bad roast that’s pretty good Jerry. Nice job .👍
Hi, thanks for the video, was so helpfull for me, I have the same roaster for 8 months, roasting 900 g batch of Colombia washed Geisha 1800m, and Castillo 1400m, will appreciate some tips for these particular coffes, thanks
Hello Fidel, thanks for watching. 900 grams gives you more room to be creative with your profiles. Density plays a big roll in how aggressive we can get with our heat. The roast level and balance play a big roll in total roast time and how we craft our profile to maximize flavor, acidity, development, etc..
I'll see how I can incorporate how to approach different coffee's based on all of these factors. Honestly, each of my videos addresses "why" I am roasting a particular coffee a certain way. I would encourage you to listed for that as I discuss my roasting approach. Of course the type of roaster plays a huge roll in the "why".
Thanks for the video. I am about to set up my M10 and was trying to figure out the exhaust issue myself, what is the adapter you are using?
Hi Dan, I’m using a reducer from grainger www.grainger.com/product/JET-Dust-Collector-Reducer-Sleeve-48RJ24 with some mods. I used tin snips to cut slices in the 2” and so it could flare with the tapered exhaust tube. I used radiator clamps to secure
@@VirtualCoffeeLab thank you for the help.
I enjoyed watching this roast. Personally, for my comsumption, I would never roast that many beans. That would keep me from using the roaster as I could not drink coffee that fast. lol.
That’s why they make smaller models.
Gotcha 👍 thanks for watching!
Do you have a running list of coffee you have roasted on the Kaleido with temperature data? I am starting out and was hoping to get a starting point for new coffees.
Hello Dpac, thanks for watching. Basically, you roaster temperatures are going to be different than mine. They could be close or maybe not. I do have several roasting profiles I've shared. I think there are 2 i did with the Kaleido M10 and 2 for the M2. You can download them for free here: buymeacoffee.com/virtualcoffeelab/extras
I would suggest you watch this video ua-cam.com/video/5Km0gLC3BKo/v-deo.html which explains why your roaster and mine display different temps and what you can do to unlock the profile.
Are you a new home coffee roaster? Are you roasting manually or with the auto roast?
I have a Kaleido M10 with a NEMA 5-15 plug (for 110V). I've modified my home to support 220V. Do I need to make any changes to my machine's plug, and if so, how can I safely do that?
Hello Rodrigo. I'm roasting with a 220v setup and using a lockable plug. It's the kind you insert into the wall receptacle and then twist about 20 degrees to lock it so it can't get knocked/pulled out by mistake. I think it is the NEMA L6-20 plug. I'm not sure if the electrical board is specifically designed for 220 or 110. You should check with the supplier you purchased the roaster from. I had an electrician install my 220 from the main to the wall just for safety.
Great video, Mike!
Thanks!
Nice roasting experiment. I have the equivalent of a 5lb roaster (BlueKing 2.5kg) and rarely go over 2kg batches. My challenge is getting sufficient gas to the roaster and therefore getting insufficient heating, as I only roast on a LPG "portable" bottle system (45kg bottles) I have profiles where I can roast up to 2200g, without compromising roast times too significantly. On my roaster, my BBP is to soak for a few minutes and the gas cuts out at 240*C and back on at 238, and I run at that for about 2 minutes and on low fan to really build up the heat contained in the roasting chamber. Then after charge I'll open the fan to the point just before it strips heat out of the drum, so I'm maximising convection transfer to the bean mass.
Out of interest do you have a "regular" profile to this coffee, and were your milestones/ percentages in each phase in the same on a regular/smaller roast? Does your cupping show any differences between the coffees roasted in shorter / longer roasts ? I'm expecting there to be some, even at the same roast depth...
Hi Brett - Thanks for sharing your setup and Between Batch Protocol info. I have not done a darker roast with this coffee using a smaller batch size. If I did, I believe the profile would be different because I would have to use a lower charge temperature and power settings to accomplish the same total roast time.
My regular profile for this coffee is different because I usually roast this coffee to a medium roast level with about 13.5% moisture loss and my total roast time for that roast is 11 minutes. Phase percentages are 46/36/18.
Are you asking if I have ever experimented with roasting the same coffee using the same ending color, drop temperature, and moisture loss BUT using different total roast times? I have done that and the coffee does taste different. I've noticed that longer roasts tend to have bigger body and will not be as complex. The tasting notes will be different. Depending on the Total roast time, the coffee can even taste kind of flat. I know I'm speaking in a general sense. I have had some viewers request I do a video about total roast time so you should see this topic come up in the near future.
Let me know if I missed something in your question. Thanks for sharing and for watching Brett.
Awesome channel and content! What was the voltage at the outlet and is it reduced by the summer local AC draw? Is it making the roast take longer? I am running the SR800 and believe that my voltage at the outlet is reduced with the summer heat waves, causing my roast power to be reduced and roast times lasting longer...
Hello Zuner. I’m running 220v for my machine which is a 220 version. I created a dedicated 220v line/circut at the box going to a new 220v outlet on the wall. The air conditioner is on a separate meter and should not affect the draw.
@VirtualCoffeeLab I am referring to the reduced voltage at the outlet due to the electrical grid being heavily utilized during all these heat waves of summer. My SR800 is highly effected because my outlet (all home outlets) voltage falls from 121v down to as low as 113.8v during mid day. Therefore, your roast might also be slowed down due to the lowered voltage...?
@@ZuberEUC I use a Hottop roaster rated at 750 watts at 115V and I too am experiencing reduced voltage during the summer due to demand on the electrical grid. I plug my roaster into a wattmeter which displays the voltage while I'm roasting. There is definitely a difference in roast length during the seasons and I have seen voltage while the roaster is running from as high as 121V to as low as 115V. It will be interesting to see how low it goes as the summer goes on. I'm in Chicago.
I don't have a way to check the 220v but it has not been hot where I live so the grid is not overloaded. I generally roast in the evening btw. If I am able I'll figure out a way to test. My current meter plug is only setup for 110v
Have you been able to get replacement heating elements anywhere? I have an old M2 and can’t get a heating element.
Jessie, have you contacted espresso outlet about this?
Awesome roast. My max so far has been 1050g (I normally go by the 90% guideline). Is that the 220v? The 110v has 2200w of power.
Mine is the 220v version.
Hello! Thank you for this video! I bought the M10 gen 2 after a year of owning the M1. I can't seem to get the ROR on the M10 to go above 16C/min. I'm roasting at 500g batch, charge temp 180C. The ROR curve seems to be shallow despite roasting only at 50% capacity. Is this normal for the M10?
What power setting are you using at the charge temp?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm usually at 45-50% power at charge temp 180C. Once the beans go in I drop the power to 0-10%, before turning it up again to 80-85% at Turning point. Even with the power at 0% after charge, my TP temp is still quite high. TP happens at around 1:00 @100C. It's also worth noting that the BT reads a bit lower on my M10S. Dry End @ 140C, FC @180.
Lower your charge temp to 170c and keep your power at 80% without turning power to 0. Your roaster isn’t designed for a soak. You should see a higher ror 20-25 peak and then start to come down a little before the dry event. Manage power so ror is around 20% at dry end.
I’ve been maxing out the Behmor 2000ab plus for the past 40 roasts, 454 grams.. Wish there was more heat and the auto-fan didn’t kick on at 7:30mins. And the other safety feature I wish there was a way to mod, it doesn’t let you turn roaster on if the temp is above 246 I’ve experienced.
Yea, so a 1 pound charge weight is max capacity for the Behmor. The only way to get shorted roast time
Or to roast light on the Behmor is to lower your charge right to 1/2 lb or less. That will allow you to switch to 1/2 pound setting and the fan will come on at about 5 minutes.
@@VirtualCoffeeLabThank you so much!
Great video Mike
Thanks Shane!
I have roasted 2lbs with the m10 before and I used the peaberry from Tanzania. I used a lower power setting than you did here and it seemed like I hit second crack really quick. I heard first crack and then what I thought was still first crack it turned into a rolling second crack. Happened way faster than I planned.
It was my 5th time using the m10 but I feel that my roasts go too fast. Any recommendations from your experience with this roaster? I want the development phase to last longer but haven’t figure out the settings for burner and air.
Absolutely. How much coffee are you roasting per batch.
Tell me your charge temperature, event times with temperatures and your desired roast level.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab My batch size has varied but I’ll be sticking to about 2lbs. I was using a charge temp of 340F, and that might not be high enough, but I’m still learning this machine.
My desired roast is more of a Vienna Roast for the Tanzanian Peaberry, and I noticed that the BT didn’t get much over 400F and was already in second crack. I did not hear a moment between first and second crack and was shocked to see it already dark and oily when I thought I was still in first crack. I don’t have the temp readings for you. My apologies.
I would imaging your roasts last 12-14 minutes or longer with that charge temperature and batch size. Roasting 2 lbs (900 grams) I've charge my roaster as high as high as 425f/220c degrees with a drum speed of 90. This helps me get a higher initial rate of rise and a shorter total roast time than a lower charge temp of 340f/170c.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab awesome. I will try that. Thank you for your reply.
Do you have any profiles available for the M10? Wanting to try an Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Chelbasa Natural.
None yet but will add some in the near future.
Great video as usual Mike. I love watching your content. How has your experience been with light roast on the m10! I’d love to see a video on your inputs of roasting light. I have tried so many different roasting approaches, drop temps, develop time, batch size, etc for nice light roast Ethiopians and I just can’t get anything good on them.
What moisture loss are you aiming for Matt? What batch size have you been roasting?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm roasting between 500g and 625g. Shooting for 12-13% moisture for light and around 13.5% for medium light. I usually hit my medium light moisture target with development around 17% but my flavors are not pleasent. It never tastes properly developed.
How long are you waiting before you drink the coffee? What are you using to brew your coffee? How long are each of your phases (time, not percentage)?
@@VirtualCoffeeLabat least a week and even longer sometimes. I use aeropress, kalita, v60, and hario switch all with similar issues.
My last roast was 4:15 dry, 1C @ 7min, drop at 7:20 (195C at 1C drop at 201C).
This is difficult to determine Matt. Let's look at this from 2 different angles:
First, the roast.
There is a problem with the roast - You mentioned "ethiopians", but you didn't mention the process. I will assume the bean size is pretty small. The beans probably don't look super light. What are the notes you should be tasting. Is is a Yirgicheffe? Your moisture loss is in line with the roast level you mentioned. The one thing I noticed that I would do differently is to slow your roast down a little. Your total roat time of 7:20 is a little short for my tastes and you might find going longer may allow for more overall flavor development. Aim for a dry time of 4:30, a FC time of 7:30-7:45, and a drop at 8:30. I look at the phases, times, and percentages to help me set milestones BUT I also. take a step back and make sure my overall roast profile will allow time for the miallard reactions. I'm sure the coffee is really dense and you don't need to worry about roasting defects much. Also, with my M10, I'm cranking the air up pretty high towards the later part of the roast. I've found myself at 70% air in development. Of course this all depends on how much momentum you have. I'm curious, what is your ROR when you enter FC and when you drop the coffee?
ok, the second angle is brewing.
There is a problem with your extraction when brewing:
You mentioned several different brewing methods. Are you able to measure Total Disolved Solids? What is your brew ratio ? Are you grinding fine enough? What kind of grinder are you using?
Hi , thanks for this. I have the same roaster and I tried doing 1.2 kg a few times and it takes well over 20 minutes-not good at all. Just curious, I have a 120v model is yours a 220-240 volt model? I would think so as you have 2600 watts worth of elements. I can manage roasts up to 900 g in about 14-15 minutes. I tried to get help from Kaleido and I did what they said but no success. I think it is due to being 120 volt?? Having said this I like the roaster but I had to lower my expectations. Thanks again. Very helpful.
Sorry about that Bruce. Yes, I have a 220v version. What sv were you using for a charge temp for 900 grams? What was your air set at charge?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I am not sure what sv means. I need to look at your channel and learn more 🙂. My charge temp is 220C and air is 0% until I drop the beans into the roaster then I have it at 15% and I don't adjust till first crack then I lower temp and more air so it slows ROR. Temp Return 76C @ 1:04/Dry End 131 @ 5:35/FC 198 @ 13:58/ FC End 201@15:16?Drop 202@15:42. Thanks.
I also have drum turning at 40% all the time
Bruce, SV means "Set Value". That is the temperature setting you would select for your charge temp. Then, when you click "start heating", the roaster automatically heats up to that level and holds until you charge the roaster. For the M10 at full capacity, I turned my SV up to 230c which is max. Then at charge, I left the power at 100% with air at 10%. What was your power setting during the first 5 minutes of your roast? My Turning point temp was about 15 degrees higher than yours. That tells me your charge temp was like 210-220c? Does that sound about right?
If you are running 110v that could be the difference, I'm not sure.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Okay great I appreciate the definition. My SV is 220C like you suggested and what I was doing for a lot of my roasts was charging the roaster and wait for the turning point and then work within the 85 to 100% range for power up until first crack. Next time I will try a full load (1.2KG) @ 230C for my SV and then I will use 10% for air till first crack and also use 100% power and see what will happen (at least this will give me a reference point). I will let up with more air and less power at first crack and beyond. What do you use for drum speed-on your video it seems to be fairly high? I am at 40% because I am trying to use conductive heat from the drum to help with heating the beans quicker?? Problem is when I use the tryer I need to speed up the drum to get beans to sit in there to look at. Do you think my drum speed should be adjusted to? Thanks.
hi, what is the safest minimum capacity (in grams) that you can roast using the M10 pro? :)
Hi Michael. I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “safe”. One challenge of a very light load is getting coffee to fall into the trier. The other challenge is having enough beans touch the bean probe and getting good reliable temps.
I would say 300 grams is about as low as I would go and honestly that makes the M10 a really flexible roaster. (300-1200 gram range)
@ thanks! will try that one.😄
in the roasting process what is the best way after or preparing for first crack to keep the blue et line from crashing? I'm still new to roasting and just trying to understand the process more
Hi Cory,
The kaleido roasters have a similar design. The ET probe placement with the carbon fire heating elements do influence the readings. Is your question “how do I keep the blue line from crossing below the BT?”
Let me know more of what you are referring and when so I can give a more complete answer.
@@VirtualCoffeeLabYes,my question was(how do I keep the blue line from crossing below the BT?”) I'm still very new to this but my roast seems to do good. then when I hit the first crack that line just starts plummeting below the other one.
Gotcha. Yea, this is a thing with the Kaleido. Like I mentioned, it seems to be inherent in their design and how far you have your probes pushed in. I've got both of my probes inserted 35mm inward. This is measured from the tip of the probe. FYI - Changing the probe positions will change your temperature readings. Depending on how you manage your heat during the roast, it is possible to keep the ET above the BT but my experience is the roast will have too much energy as you enter first crack. It's too much heat. So, i've gotten used to the ET dropping below. If you look at your ROR while this is going on you will notice the ROR is still in the positive. The BT and ROR are the numbers you should be watching during the development time.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab ok,gotcha. thank you for your help!!
You have roasted on both, this or Bullet?
Hi nick, I’ve roasted on both the m10 and the bullet
@@VirtualCoffeeLab what was your preference?
Not really. I chose the M10 for it's capacity, features and cost. The Bullet has some great features as well. I especially like the Roastime software for it's ease of use and especially the homescreen which shows the summary of my recent roasts. Artisan doesn't have that. I also like how the chaff capacity of the Bullet is much greater than the M10. If you're looking for a recommendation I would say both roasters are a good decision. It all comes down to your needs, budget, and preference for the design and features. There is a big difference in price between the two. My M10 is plugged into a 220 outlet. I added that (additional cost) so I woundn't have to worry about blowing a fuse or something.