This is the first detailed explanation I've heard of how water inside coax creates problems. Everyone says water is bad for coax, but rarely do you get an explanation of how it is so. Thank you for the information!
I use rubber splicing tape. Stretchable rubber tape, (no adhesive) tightly wound covering the whole connection, then electrical tape for UV protection as Dave suggest. No adhesive makes it easy to remove when needed without a stick mess afterwards. Can get it at Lowes and Home Depot.
Adding an outer covering of UV resistant heat-shrink (HS) tubing helps the self-vulcanizing rubber tape last. The HS tubing has fewer possible holes for infiltration than the Scotch 88 tape.
There are many names for that type of "rubber" waterproof tape: self-fusing, self-bonding, self-amalgamating and self-vulcanising are a few. It must be stretched before wrapping to make it adhere to itself. It is also useful if you accidentally damage a coax cable sheath and want to prevent water getting in that way. It is resistant to UV, oil or most chemicals but cannot be unwrapped - you need a knife to get the already fused tape off!
I waterproof all my outside coax connections, no matter what type of coax connector I am using. Best practice is to tightly wrap the connection with rubber "coax seal" then wrap it again with good quality electrical tape. If you do that, and buy high quality coax, it should last for years.
Here, over the pond, after ensuring that the cable and connectors are clean and good, we seal the connection by wrapping rubber self amalgamating tape around the cable, starting about 2 inches below the connectors on the cable, carefully over the connectors to about 2 inches above the connectors, several times. Although rubber self amalgamating tape is not particularly sticky, one has to stretch the tape and keep it under tension as one winds it around the cable and over the connectors to the other cable ensuring that it forms a good seal; by stretching it the self amalgamating process causes the rubber to become a solid structure. One may wrap the self amalgamating tape around the connection three or four times; then squeeze the tape around the connection with your hand, ensuring that the rubber self amalgamating has now become a solid rubber mass around the cable and connectors. And if you really want to seal the cable for a long period of time for a permanent structure (i.e. Once sealed, it is extremely difficult to remove the seal), one could go the extra mile and use, 'plumbers mate'. Ensure you follow the written instructions for 'plumbers mate' and have the correct protective gloves as you apply this smoothly over the whole of the wound self amalgamating tape of the cable connection; it can be a very messy job applying 'plumbers mate', but if it is correctly applied it provides a very hard waterproof shell around the connection which should last for years.
I live in the Northeast. Lots and lots of rain. All my permanent cables with pl259 get little bit of clear silicone will take care of all the problems. It will last for years.
First, use dielectric grease IN the crimp and connector. Then overwrap with self amalgamating tape, or apply a half dozen coats (they're thin) of Liquid Lectric, a liquid plastic that dries to make a watertight seal. In the big box stores, Liquid Lectric may be with the electric tape, but the srlf amalgamating tapes are often in the plumbing section.
Dave, you make a good case for a better coax and some N connectors which stand up to water much better. As far as the tapes go there and so many high quality tapes that stand up to water and high voltage they can't be listed here. Thanks for an interesting talk!
This is the first detailed explanation I've heard of how water inside coax creates problems. Everyone says water is bad for coax, but rarely do you get an explanation of how it is so. Thank you for the information!
Dave, I am really enjoying these regular short instructional videos. Always great information
I use rubber splicing tape. Stretchable rubber tape, (no adhesive) tightly wound covering the whole connection, then electrical tape for UV protection as Dave suggest. No adhesive makes it easy to remove when needed without a stick mess afterwards. Can get it at Lowes and Home Depot.
Thank you, Dave. Take care. N0QFT
Adding an outer covering of UV resistant heat-shrink (HS) tubing helps the self-vulcanizing rubber tape last. The HS tubing has fewer possible holes for infiltration than the Scotch 88 tape.
There are many names for that type of "rubber" waterproof tape: self-fusing, self-bonding, self-amalgamating and self-vulcanising are a few. It must be stretched before wrapping to make it adhere to itself. It is also useful if you accidentally damage a coax cable sheath and want to prevent water getting in that way. It is resistant to UV, oil or most chemicals but cannot be unwrapped - you need a knife to get the already fused tape off!
Thanks, Dave! 73
I waterproof all my outside coax connections, no matter what type of coax connector I am using. Best practice is to tightly wrap the connection with rubber "coax seal" then wrap it again with good quality electrical tape. If you do that, and buy high quality coax, it should last for years.
Here, over the pond, after ensuring that the cable and connectors are clean and good, we seal the connection by wrapping rubber self amalgamating tape around the cable, starting about 2 inches below the connectors on the cable, carefully over the connectors to about 2 inches above the connectors, several times. Although rubber self amalgamating tape is not particularly sticky, one has to stretch the tape and keep it under tension as one winds it around the cable and over the connectors to the other cable ensuring that it forms a good seal; by stretching it the self amalgamating process causes the rubber to become a solid structure. One may wrap the self amalgamating tape around the connection three or four times; then squeeze the tape around the connection with your hand, ensuring that the rubber self amalgamating has now become a solid rubber mass around the cable and connectors.
And if you really want to seal the cable for a long period of time for a permanent structure (i.e. Once sealed, it is extremely difficult to remove the seal), one could go the extra mile and use, 'plumbers mate'. Ensure you follow the written instructions for 'plumbers mate' and have the correct protective gloves as you apply this smoothly over the whole of the wound self amalgamating tape of the cable connection; it can be a very messy job applying 'plumbers mate', but if it is correctly applied it provides a very hard waterproof shell around the connection which should last for years.
4:10 " round the outside round the outside" some famous rap song.
My swr's are fine as long as it doesn't rain
My yard is solid trees. The dipoles run through the branches. You should see the day/night and wet/dry swing on the swr.
I always wondered why don’t someone make an outdoor connector
I live in the Northeast. Lots and lots of rain. All my permanent cables with pl259 get little bit of clear silicone will take care of all the problems. It will last for years.
First, use dielectric grease IN the crimp and connector. Then overwrap with self amalgamating tape, or apply a half dozen coats (they're thin) of Liquid Lectric, a liquid plastic that dries to make a watertight seal.
In the big box stores, Liquid Lectric may be with the electric tape, but the srlf amalgamating tapes are often in the plumbing section.
Is the patron also an oggie? There needs to be some sort of ranking system. With various titles like modern major general for example.
None before Dave.
Thanks mr. (Whoopie) the man with all the answers.
Good electrical tape and in some cases shrink wrap are your friend.
Looked like a PL259 to me :-)
Dave, you make a good case for a better coax and some N connectors which stand up to water much better. As far as the tapes go there and so many high quality tapes that stand up to water and high voltage they can't be listed here. Thanks for an interesting talk!