Radial Arm Saw: Worth Owning?
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- The pros and cons of a radial arm saw for woodworking.
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UPDATE:
I get lots of comments about the direction of feed for ripping. In the video I did not intend to demonstrate ripping, I was just standing at a particular camera angle while I was talking. However, I'll point out that the manufacture's do indicate in their manuals that both directions of feed are acceptable for ripping. One they call 'in-ripping" one they call "out-ripping". For me personally, I don't do any ripping! I prefer the table saw for that and I think either direction of ripping on a radial arm saw offers unreasonable risk. Anyway, before you write an angry comment to me, please read page 26 of this manual for a common RAS sold by Sears:
www.searsparts...
I used to have a Craftsman 10" RAS. I ripped plywood and a variety of materials with it. Never had a problem. The instruction booklet with it said ALWAYS rip from the back side of the blade. If you rip from the front? no wonder you think its dangerous!
I've been ripping with my 12" 220V Craftsman for decades and haven't found it to be dangerous at all. Even bevel rips go smoothly and you don't have to apply down pressure like on a table saw. A sharp blade is a must though.
It is great for ripping, you just have to be careful. Doing a whole set of datto's on a long wider boards for shelf side uprights, there is nothing else like it that you can use.
bearbon2 Mine is a 10” DeWalt and I couldn’t agree more. Used properly it’s as safe as houses. I use it for everything. RIP, crosscut, dados and mitres.🇬🇧🏴
Well, people who have found it dangerous can’t type.
I have owned and used a Radial arm saw for over 40 years. I have crosscut and ripped as well as other cuts. I have never had an accident with it. I use a push stick for ripping.
I do not consider a Radial arm saw dangerous. Think before using it and it is a safe as any other power saw.
P.S. The one time I had an accident using a saw was when I was using a table saw. I cut a finger slightly. Not serious. . I never used a table saw again and that was 40 years ago.
I just bought my 4th RAS second hand for $50.00. I restored it and use it weekly.
Dont be afraid. Go easy and think about safety and this saw will treat you just fine.
+Bubba
RAS you know where the blade is, table saw it can just pop right up at you.
some people can drive drunk for 40 years and never have an accident. your lucky experiences do not discount improvements to safety in newer alternatives
@@dobrovik The blade guard is the weak point on old radial arm saws. If you look at a modern new Craftsman radial arm saw, the guard completely covers every inch of the blade, and when rip cutting, it's way safer than a table saw with no riving knife, and no guard. All the newer radial arm saws have a riving knife, and anti-kickback pawls, which makes them far safer than an old table saw with no guard and no riving knife. Most table saws are run with no guard, and many have no riving knife. The lack of a riving knife on a table saw, makes them the most dangerous machine in the world, hands down.
@@dobrovik And you can have a new saw with all the safety features in the world and still get hurt if you don't know what you are doing. Knowledge of the proper and safe use is key with any tool.
The radial arm saw is also (with proper clamping) useful in metal work as a surface grinder and an edge grinder with a 8 or 10 inch stone. You can also use it is a surface brush on metal work with a 8 or 10 inch wire brush. Nice part is, if you run it sideways (with proper clamping), you can grind the edge of a new blade you might be forging and make a near exact edge. What's cool is, you can clamp the work pieces down and run the stone or brush over them. Because the saw actually let's you raise and lower, it's especially useful for incremental grinding.
Dragon Steel brilliant idea even if I'm 3 years late reading it! Cheers mate
That's what I was thinking.
I've had my Craftsman RAS since 1968 and never had a problem with it. Cross cuts, miter cuts and yes ripping using the anti kickback bar and shield. I love it. Thanks for the video.
The key to using a RAS safely is to always use a very sharp, clean NEGATIV RAKE blade. Negative rake provides that the blade will cut instead of grab the work. A positive rake blade will "crawl" up the work. I do everything on a RAS . I don't even own a table saw. Thanks for your video.
+bigviking0001
I Own a now 150 dollar table saw had it about 14 years, Brand new, its 220 volts. IT's never been plunged in. I use my RAS all the time.
When I get me a 220 volt line ran to the Main Panel that is out of room with a pony panel I'll use my Nice new saw. But forte past 2 years I've also had a 110 model, it looks brand new as well. What I find annoying is how hard it is to find out information or clips of people using the RAS for ripping, drilling, Routing, Shaping, and jointing sanding grinding, metal work, Did I say Lathe?
bobbg Try and find a guard made for use with the molding head. It replaces the blade guard. It is a flat shield that mounts and held in place with the same nut that holds the blade guard. Attached to this plate is a U shaped metal guard that is about 2" wide and has three pins with lock screws to lock it in place, that slide through holes in the plate. The molding head and guard is set in the horz. position. Adjust the head to the height needed to cut the edge of the wood that is going to be the molding. The cutters are advanced through the fence just far enough to cut the shape of the molding. Several cuts may be required to get to the full depth of the molding shape. The U shaped guard is lowered down to the top of the wood that is going to be the new molding. Hope this is not too comfusing.
I now have my dad's 1967 B&D RAS. I remember him being so very proud of this tool and I must say it is my favorite in the shop. Mr Sawdust and others have books on set up and fine tuning these machines, I'm about to rebuild my table top now. Can't wait to get that complete and put the RAS back to use.
I have found through the years, the 3 RAS's I've owned were as safe as the operator, versatile as my imagination and, as accurate as the person setting up the cut. And yeah, thanks for taking the time to do the video.
Excellent video that covers the important issues related to its safe operation. The saw has means for fine tuning adjustments so that the horizontal & vertical angle settings can be fine tuned so that when they're locked in at 90deg. it is accurately locked in at 90deg. This should be periodically checked and adjusted as necessary.
I can't help it. I couldn't disagree with this guy more. I've ripped miles of 2" stock on a Craftsman radial arm saw. 1) Tune up the saw. 2) Install a sharp carbide blade. 3) Rotate the blade guard until it just touches the wood being ripped. 3) Drop the anti-kick pawls. 4) Feed at the correct speed and use a push stick to finish the cut. Just like using a table saw. One more thing, just like ripping on a table saw, don't stand directly behind the blade. One look at the blade on the saw, the table and the fence this gentleman was using will tell you how much he knows about radial arm saws.
Ed Waggoner Sr. Kind of harsh with the personal attack, huh? As I noted in the video, my RAS is just used for rough cross cuts and I have an arsenal of table saws and miter saws to do the finer cuts. I have no doubt you're able to accomplish basic ripping without cutting off a finger. I imagine you must have also built an infeed/outfeed table that is conducive to ripping. My shop is set up strictly for RAS crosscutting and I certainly would not want to rip on my current setup. For my table saw I allow room to position my body and my hands correctly behind the workpiece, which greatly increases safety. I think you'll agree that a table saw also allows for more advanced cuts than an RAS, such as ripping grooves with a dado blade, or using tapering jigs, using roller hold downs or featherboards, or using crosscut sleds. A table saw has superior dust collection capability, which I think is also a safety factor. Modern table saws also have riving knives, which greatly increase protection against pinching and kickback from case hardened wood. With the poor quality, young growth, quick kiln-dried wood sold these days that's a continuing problem. So, I just find ripping on a RAS to be an unnecessary additional burden and risk when compared to a table saw. If I only had room for one saw, it would certainly be the table saw over the RAS. Maybe you feel differently, but that's what makes woodworking an individual love affair.
enduringcharm
Thanks for putting up a vid and sharing your experience and opinions.
In this case, I am a dedicated RAS user and agree 100% w/ Ed Waggoner, without any personal attack on you our host, but I sold my TS and went 200% (I now own 2 RAS) in on the RAS concept. My RAS is more accurate, offers better cut quality, has more power, and better capacity than my 12" SCMS, plus I can easily work on just flat out bigger pieces with the RAS; I only keep the SCMS for field work.
Here's why:
1) Safety issues and solutions are nearly identical between the TS and the RAS because the physics are the same but is slightly different configurations. Ripping dangers, considerations, protections, solutions are comparable.
2) The TS workstation takes up a ridiculous amount of shop space, and this alone creates its own safety issues that don't exist for the RAS.
3) Because no work is done behind the RAS column, it requires about 1/2 the floor area of the TS, and what's hugely better is that the RAS is designed to put against a wall and to function in a line configuration. That means the RAS is ideally installed in a bench that is shared other stationary or bench top tools that utilize a fixed worksurface height. Router table, planer, horizontal belt sander, SCMS, bench mount biscuit joiner, mortiser, bandsaw, etc... Say "hello" to a very compact, efficient, and well organized shop setup that is also inexpensive due common work and support surfaces, power supplies, and dust collection setups.
4) RAS easily outperforms TS is any TS type cut configuration, and then the RAS offers cuts that the TS is incapable of completing. No jigs are required for miters, bevels, tenons, blind stopped cuts, etc. Because the RAS blade can cut horizontally, I can raise panels, rip mouldings, work large panel edges, and bevel rip without ridiculous jig setups -- the workpiece is safely flat on the table, by any measure this is SAFER than a TS operation.
5) Just like the TS, the RAS must be correctly setup and tuned in order to operate safely and accurately. The fact is that the RAS offers 4 degrees of freedom (the TS offers 2) and the setup/tuning will take considerably more time to successfully complete, but the payoff is an order of magnitude more flexibility/functionality with cabinet saw accuracy and repeatability.
6) The arbor is above the table, so other tooling options are easily and safely available. Blade changes take around 30 seconds, dado setups are a pleasure which means I use my stacked dado often.
7) While maybe not as fast/productive as a TS with certain limited TS oriented operations (ripping?) in a production environment, the RAS is faster to setup/reconfigure/re-tool in a hobby or 1-off/prototyping environment.
8) This is a big deal: Because the RAS is designed to work with 4-deg. of freedom, figuring out how to accomplish a particular task is much easier and faster than with any other tool I can think of.
SuperBardley This video in particular seems to raise emotions among woodworkers! I have nothing against a RAS nor those who love them, it just makes more sense for me to confine it's use to certain crosscutting and dado operations. I do have the luxury of a full shop with lots of room and lots of stationary tools including two table saws. If I had less room I'd be forced to make more difficult tool choices, perhaps. And, obviously, I agree that if you are going to use a RAS extensively then tuning and infeed/outfeed setup is critical for safety and performance. I still think you're nuts for choosing a RAS over a table saw for ripping--but we're woodworkers so I guess we're all a little nuts!
enduringcharm
I don't know a single, not 1, woodworker with an opinion ;-) HA!
I want your shop.
enduringcharm If I had a large shop I'd have both a table saw and a radial arm saw. I'd put a rip saw blade in the table saw and do everything else on the radial arm saw.
My bud calls them radial harm saws, he has three fingers missing to show for it. But the shaft opposite the blade is for mounting a drill chuck in which you can install a router bit and pull it through for great slotting operations. I also have a molding head cutter which I use now and then, but that's in the rip mode and ya gotta be real careful. But if you keep your saw tuned up properly it is dead on accurate for bevel and miter cuts. I just ordered the free upgrade kit for mine.
I remember my dad using his heavily until he got a miter box in the late 90's. We used to rip all kinds of things with it and never had an issue. I remember going to some major lumber yards back in the day that hade HUGE radial arm saws that were constantly ripping stock. Very fond memories of this saw.
Yeah, lumberyards always had a big Delta RAS hiding somewhere. Many Home Depots had them too, although they were modified for safety with locks and blade covers.
I’ve just bought a Ryobi RA-200 and was looking on youtube for tips on using a radial arm saw, this video was ideal and shows how useful a radial arm saw is in any hobbyist or diy workshop.
I inherited my grandfather's old RAS, by way of my father. I had been saving up to get a Bosch GCM12SD (the glide saw) for larger capacity crosscuts than I can get with my non-sliding/gliding miter saw, and faster than pulling out the crosscut sled. But now that I have this thing I'm not going to need the Bosch!
I was having trouble making sense out of the controls until I saw this video, as you have the exact same model. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. :)
+enduringcharm, I got the saw cleaned up pretty well today. Learned a lot about the functions in the process. But I can't get the lever/latch thing right above the handle to release so I can't get the motor to rotate for bevel cuts (or to check the table height/level). Any experience with that problem on this saw, just like yours? I released the screw below already (even removed it to clean it) but I can't get the lever to release. That's the only function left that I haven't tuned up. Thanks!
+Jon Miller Mine frequently sticks too. It takes a good amount of force to lift it up. Try spraying the opening with silicone over a period of a couple of hours. The propellant in the spray will help free the gumminess and the silicone will keep it lubricated. Once you get it freed up--use it or lose it!
I finally got it loose last night with a little help from a clamp. First I opened that tube on top by pulling the circlip, not realizing how strong the spring behind it was. I found the spring and circlip but it seems the cap is lost forever. Lost another half an hour making a new one. :(
Once I got it open I could see the function better. I had already soaked the mechanism with PB Blaster, so I used the clamp and suddenly it came loose. Works perfectly now.
I'm quite tempted to just throw the old fence on and put it to work, but I really need to build a cabinet for it to sit on, including leveling feet and table leveling screws, and it's going to live in-line with my miter saw and jointer.
Thanks again!
WOW! What a cutdown. I have a radial arm saw in my shop and have never had any trouble with it, cross cuts, ripping angles you name it, it does everything a chop saw does, easier!
Many people enjoy their RAS, and I wouldn't take that away from them. But, it's no match for a modern sliding compound miter saw as far as accuracy, safety or portability. I made this video years ago really to make a point that in outfitting a shop a RAS is not necessary, nor is it desirable if space is limited. These days you can pick up a working RAS for under $20 near me and sometimes they are given away. I still use mine occasionally for cross-cut dados in a shelf, or for rough cutting lumber. However, when the motor or the bearings go I'll just toss it and use the space for something else.
I have a double bevel sliding compound miter saw. It's almost like an RAS. The instructions say to never pull the blade toward to for that reason stated. The blade will tend to bite into the wood and come charging at you. Always PUSH the power head toward the back of the saw.
I've got a Craftsman RAS circa mid '90's and it's the primary tool in my workshop. I can't count how many bookshelves I've made with a dado cut - certainly dozens. Ripping can be a bit dicey but with judicious use of push sticks and featherboards you're pretty safe.
The one area where there's just no competition is in production work. A long fence and a stop block and you can crank out identical pieces all day long. I've built a livingroom's worth of bookshelves where every piece is the same length, every dado is in the same place. You really can't do that with any other tool.
Got an old DeWalt RAS and it's ripping like a charm! It's just not a conventional saw (as opposed to a table saw) so you need to be aware of how to operate it safely and there are not a lot of instructions out there. Thanks for raising some safety tips on RAS !
I got one like this but sawsmith brand about 1.5 years ago now. I actually saw it at a garage sale for like $20 but did not work I passed as had no use for it and did not work. I later saw it online for free at the same place I was like what the heck get a friend, and my trailer and we'll get it to see if I can fix it. Ended up the wire from the switch to the motor in the arm was destroyed, replaced it works fine. I used it last summer to cut new vinyl soffit. The only thing this had going for it with that over my Ridgid 14 inch radial slider arm saw was a larger work area and I could put a nail in the bad and use that as a stop for cutting soffit. Also used for some notching of trim boards, after those uses I have not touched in a year now. I hauled it out to my shed where it has sat since then, on one hand I hate to get rid of it but on the other hand it may be better than a table saw or compound radial arm saw. I feel like soon as I do get rid of it I probably won't get much for it (like the price range you describe) and then I'll end up in some situation where I need it again and regret not keeping it.
The saw smith unit I have I guess could do sanding, planeing, etc too but you have to have the accessories for it which you can't get anymore. My newer Ridgid radial arm saw can do set depth cuts but that is based on a CAM shamed dial with like 5-6 settings so not probably as accurate as one of these in that way. One of these may have a better cutting depth than a newer small saw, maybe simpler for dato cuts, beyond that I am not sure how much value these have. Not sure on all of these but I know my sawsmith unit had a speed chang knob o the motor I think this was more for use with accessories, but I think it was also used for different types/sizes of blades, materials, etc. I have never seen any other large saw with adjustable speeds, maybe because it was decided it was stupid or maybe it is another advantage these units have.
I rip with mine all the time. you feed against the blade and use the adjustable stop. works like a charm
Me too, I have two homes with a Radial Arm saw at each. Bought one of them new in mid 80s. Still going strong, never a mishap.
I agree. I have this exact same unit, even modified the power switch; mine with a slap Off switch. Rip against the rotation of the blade and you won't have a problem, rip with the rotation of the blade and it could kill you. Thanks for the video!
I rip all the time with mine like any power tool never force things if your forcing the wood through STOP! Something is wrong the blade should do the work not you. Read the manual follow safety instructions take it slow allow the tool to do the work you’ll be fine as with any power tool
One item you didn't mention is the ability to see your marks and your cut. That's especially handy when making repetitive cross-cut dadoes. If you dado a lot, the RAS is indispensable.
I have an old PowrKraft (Montgomery Wards) I picked up used for under $100 a few years back, and grew up with my step-dad's even older Delta. To me the RAS is like sailing and driving a stick - it's not for just anybody. :)
+Uhlan Agreed, I grew up using my dads Craftsman Radial Arm saw and got my own PowrKraft as soon as I got my own shop. In addition to being my primary cutting tool it is also my router table, I appreciate being able to see the cuts as they are made with all my operations.
W1ldt1m
Hmmm, I need to find those accessories :)
The RAS is a great tool and is often unused due to a lack of knowledge of the tools features. You can prevent lunging as described in the video by using the CORRECT blade. I always use a Zero or Negative hook blade on my RAS. The force is directed downward and not towards the user, thus preventing the tendency to jump at you. Remember to always respect the tool, because the tool doesn't respect you.
Like all tools, it's only as safe as the operator. If you feel that the tool is not safe you are likely using it wrong. I have used my RAS to its full capacity performing compound miter cuts, cross cuts, dado cuts and of course ripping. Now if you use the blade guards, the dust shield, the riving blade and anti kickback pawls as shown in the manual the saw is perfectly safe. (The direction of ripping that you demonstrated is backwards and yes I read your note) The problem that I find with the RAS is the size of the saw. It takes up a lot of valuable real estate and it's not portable. Thanks for sharing your video though - creative criticism aside... Rob
I learned shop safety back in the 50s from my Jr. High shop teacher, "Stumpy" Gustafson. One look at his hands and you got real conscientious about safety. He said the most dangerous machine in the shop isn't a machine, it's the operator. A machine is only as safe as you are.
I like everything you said, I agree, except for your criticism of its portability. I had 6m, 100x200mm pine beams that I wanted to up-cycle. I simply lifted the saw onto my patio and arranged an in-feed and out-feed temporary table either side of the saw, shimmed them to heaght and let the saw take its time. No effort at all. I love this saw.
Ahh no. Some tools are more objectively dangerous. Are all cars equally safe, even if driven by a perfect driver?
Great overview Rob. I bought a used radial arm saw a few months ago to specifically cut dados. I had a commission to build a 9' ladder, which meant 18 angled dados and it worked very well. I've used it several times since.
I agree with your assessment on the safety of this saw for ripping material. When you compare it to how a table saw works, the table saw is much safer as the blade forces the wood down on the table.
Thanks of the video. I hope more people will learn about the unique dado capabilities of a radial arm saw. A great tool for dados!
As many have already commented---ripping with that saw is not nearly as difficult as you make it sound. I have owned one for years---little newer then the one in your video-but its a Craftsman 10" RAS. I have ripped with it for years, never had an issue. I have even ripped 14 ft 2x4 into furrining strips with it, worked perfect! Dangerous? have never seen a power saw that isent, but like anything (wink) read the directions and take a few precautions. Does it rip as well a a table saw? No-it dosent, but if you only have room for one saw in you shop-this is a good choice.
There are certainly devotees of the RAS, but if I could only have one stationary saw and I had to choose between a RAS and a table saw, I would still choose the latter. Either way, though, you're right about the danger of ALL saws.
enduringcharm
I agree, if I had the room I would own both. And yes to rip anything a table saw, which I have used many times, is much easier. Probably a little more precise as well, truth be told.
A few things about ripping with a Radial Arm Saw. 1) Rotate the blade guard until it just clears the wood being ripped. 2) Adjust the anti-kickback pawl. 3) Use a push stick to push the ripped side next to the fence. 4) Very Important! Make sure your saw blade is parallel to the fence. 5) Also Very Important! The saw blade must be very sharp and clean. 6) Make sure you feed the wood being ripped into the saw from the correct direction. It really is quite simple.
we've got two ras and we use the main one every day. as with any machine you have to keep it tuned and a sharp blade on it and it'll do a great job.
You might have noticed this saw is capable of "In Rips" and "Out Rips", meaning you can have the motor facing in toward the fence or outwards with the motor facing the lift column.
When I rip, and I do it fairly often. I setup the saw to "Out Rip" to rip thin strips like plywood edging, and set-up an auxiliary fence opposite the lift column.
I use "pull sticks" not "push sticks", so that I can stay perpendicular to the saw blade while pulling the stock past the blade. The cut-off falls away from the blade safely.
I bought my saw new in 1986, but I've never used it a lot. The addition of a thin kerf chop-saw blade gave a performance boost.
I use a stiff arm style to pull or sometimes push the saw through the cut. With that firm connection from the saw handle to my body, it's a more controlled cut.
Well tuned these saws can cut pretty precisely.
I saw a fellow on youtube use his in a cleaver way. He had a very long workbench for ripping. He took a roughsawn long timber that was very crooked. He used the two ends of the timber on the bottom side of the crown and put them along the fence which ran along the entire wall. He was then able to rip a clean straight side into the timber without a jointer. Then he cut the other side on the table saw. It was a good use of the radial arm saw.
I saw that video too. (Jim the Pilot) He understands the saw, respects it and uses it to do just about everything and he has all his fingers.Some folks fear it, some don't. I just got mine, so I'm no expert, but I think once you understand cutting from above, the importance of set-up and maybe use a negative hook blade, ripping, cross cutting etc is no more dangerous than any saw with a spinning blade.
I have not seen that video, but you made an important point. If you intend to rip with a RAS, it is best to set up a table or stand designed for that purpose rather than use the same setup you would for cross cutting. I'll stick with my table saw and handheld circular saw for ripping, though.
enduringcharm
Good points. Enduringcharm, I'll bet money that when you rip on your TS that you use proper infeed and outfeed supports. Right? Well, when I rip on my RAS, I use the same supports that I used to use on my TS, and that's only because my RAS is mobile (no workshop, I'm doing it in the driveway ;-( ). That said, the circ saw + ripping guide is THE safe and easy way to break down sheet goods unless one has some fancy $4,000 sliding cabinet saw setup.
SuperBardley Festool track saw is very safe and makes for easy plywood breakdown. It is cheaper than a sliding cabinet saw. Not cheap but worth the money. I love mine.
Yes, the Festool track saws are the gold standard, in all senses of the term. Maybe someday I'll get one, but due to budgetary choices, I continue to get by w/ my DIY version.
I got my old Ward's Powerkraft when my landlord threw it out ten years ago. I took it apart, replaced all the bearings and cleaned it up and it is my go-to saw for just about anything. I don't know any cut it can't make, including routing with the cutter above the board. They have a reputation for being dangerous, but I've never been hurt by mine. Something I can't say about the rest of my tools. With the judicious use of feather boards, clamps and guards the saw is as safe as you are. It is probably the only saw I have that is not and never will be for sale. I've ripped thousands of feet of lumber and never had a kickback because I'd never use it without a featherboard. The only thing else I'd recommend is when possible, pull the blade out and place the board behind it and push in to cut.
I've been using RAS since I've been 14 yrs. old I'm now 55. I have a old delta 12" 3 phase commercial and a old Dewalt 10 in my shop. I can' t seem to go to sliding chop saws although I think there very versatile. I just like RAS . I never ripped on one and never wanted too. If you have the room and can get one reasonably priced I recommend you get one.
Since moving into my current house, I have acquired my dad's table saw and radial arm saw. Both are old Craftsman, he bought the best he could and they still work as good as the day he bought them. Just today we used both cutting panel boards for the living room. He moved the saws to my place since I had a dedicated building to turn into a shop.
I suggest you learn a bit more about using a RAS.
The first thing about using the saw safely is to put the correct blade on it. The blade appears to be a table saw blade, which really is a bad idea - It has an excessive positive hook angle that makes the saw tend to self-feed. Try using a blade with a 5 degree or less hook -- one choice is a blade for a sliding miter saw.
So far as aligning the saw, the very most important alignment is to make sure the plane of the blade's plate is perfectly parallel to the line of cut. If the blade is 'heeled', then the saw will climb to one side on the front and lift the workpiece on the back --- This is a major cause of kickback.
That said, I rip with both of my RAS saws all the time. No problem.
This has been well covered in the comments before. For me, I use the RAS just for rough cuts or for crosscut dados. I will use positive rake blades in spite of the extra risk because I'm using throwaway blades from other tools in order to cut scrap wood or PVC boards, etc. I have several compound miter and sliding compound miter saws for fine or important cuts and a shop and a field table saw for ripping. I have nothing against folks who like the RAS for ripping, I just find a table saw far superior for my work.
If you have the room for one. I rip a lot of 4x8's for signs in my garage so the RAS is a better all in one my needs. I also have both in my basement for smaller stuff.
I use only freshly ground blades on my RAS. It might be economical to use worn out blades but using a cheap or dull blade is dangerous on any saw. The most important machine in my shop is a saw sharpening machine I built about 20 years ago.
Bob can you tell me where I can usually find such a blade ie on line or at big box outlet? Thanks
I just became interested in the Radial Arm Saw and on a whim, checked Facebook Marketplace. A local guy, had just listed a Craftsman 10" RAS from the 70's that works perfectly, 3 minutes before, for the right price of 'free'! I went and picked it up. I was thinking it would be perfect for cross cut dado's, but had not seen anyone mention that use. I was pleasantly surprised to find you had posted this video on the radial arm saw years back. As I'm sure you know, to cross cut dado's on the table saw safely, you have to setup a stop block well before the blade on the rip fence and then slide past it with a cross cut sled, so that the work piece is out away from the rip fence as you make the cut. I'm not aware of any sliding compound miter saws that accept dado's. As you suggested, I'll do my rip cuts on my table saw.
Cross cut dadoes are a good application for the RAS, with the obvious limitation that the maximum width of the dado is going to be something like 12-14 inches. Okay for a bookshelf, but not enough for larger cabinets. As for doing the same thing on a sliding compound miter saw, you might be surprised to learn that many of these saws do have a built in depth stop, so you can do precision dadoes with them. In a shop environment I generally stick with a router or table saw to do dadoes these days. Out in the field I have occasionally used a sliding compound miter with a depth stop for a dado or a tenon in a pinch.
@@enduringcharm Thanks, great info.
My dad owned one when I was a kid. he built a lot of furniture and cabinets with it and eventually built a house using an old Craftsman Radial-arm. I bought my first one in 1975.. I have cut thousands of feet of wood with it and never had a problem.. I have never seen anyone recommend pulling the saw across the wood.. My dad was a carpenter and taught me to push it.. That's like running wood through a planner or router backwards, you are just asking for trouble doing that. They are great workhorse saws. My dad is gone but I still have and cherish his old saw, which still works by the way.
I'm not sure where the idea of pushing the blade through a crosscut came about, but that's not right. To do so, you would need first to pull the head all the way out, then place the workpiece behind the head before pushing the blade through the cut. Presumably one would do this with the motor off. Aside from the extra time needed to accomplish this, now you are forced to take your hand off the workpiece to turn the saw on while you hold the handle for the head in the other hand. By contrast, pulling the blade through the cut leaves one hand on the work, one on the saw and you can keep the blade running while adjusting for the cut. But, don't take my word for it. The owner's manuals describe a pull motion for crosscutting. Here's a link to an old manual of the era:
vintagemachinery.org/pubs/286/4244.pdf
thank you John I picked one up today for FREE and it works, goes up and down and left to right I just gotta get it to swivel, thank you for all your safety tips
The saw blade that you are using has an obvious positive rake to the teeth and will climb into the cut. You should use a blade that has a negative rake or at least a very small positive rake.
mars1952 I'm aware of the advantages--at the time of this video I was using the RAS to cut vintage wood and other poor quality materials to rough length. I was using an old garbage blade to do so since damage to the blade was likely. Even so, a positive rake blade can be used safely for crosscuts as long as you are ready for potential "catching" and adjust your feed rate accordingly.
Glad to see so much RAS love in the comments, and glad to see probably the same Sears catalogue item my dad used for almost 30 years. The only part that ever wore out was the red rocker power switch on top. A lot of important family projects he made with that baby are still around and in daily use. I would think the guy who took it as a donation is still proving it's worth.
Nice video. I have the exact same saw which I used as a kid and later inherited from my dad. Prior to owning a table saw I've done a lot of rip cuts on it and have never had a problem so I guess I've exercised the right amount of caution. A few years ago I opened up the motor and replaced the motor's bearings because the original bearings were seizing up.
If you set a saw like that one up with a Biesmeyer flip-stop and a scaled fence, invest some time in setting the blade up dead square to the fence, and buy a good blade, it can be the most precise cross-cut device in your shop. It becomes extremely handy for perfect cross-cuts on long stock, and saves a lot of measuring. With the flip-stop and the scaled fence, your tape and your square are not needed for perfect, repeatable cuts. No need for a sliding table or a sled on the table saw.
I agree that having stops, whether commercially sourced or homemade, is a very valuable technique.
I have the 1960's version of this saw. Great for cross cuts and dado work. We had a few challenges as a kid working with my dad trying to rip long boards. My opinion today was our table surface was inadequate for the long wood we were trying to rip. I wouldn't hesitate to rip small chunks of wood with proper securement and push sticks. I would also recommend a reasonable new sharp blade. We burned up a capacity once trying to rip long pieces of wood that would hang up. Great tool. I hardly use the miter saw now that I have the RAS back in service.
I have a 12 inch Craftsman an a 10 inch Dewalt RAS.
I will not give up my Delta Unisaw (table saw) for them but I will not give up my RAS for a compound sliding miter saw, which I don't have.
I rip with my RAS sometimes and do not find such operation dangerous.
The video does not show two important operations of the RAS.
First is tenoning or open-mortising (which is a thin and broad finger joint) on long pieces, say over three feet.
Second is moulding head operation, even with template guide. Get the smaller (vintage) moulding head to work with the RAS for template guided moulding.
Probably because I know that the RAS could be dangerous, I am extra careful and go the distance in devising safety so it is not dangerous
I'd like to make two points. First is that I didn't hear anything mentioned about putting a metal/tile cutting blade into the machine. These things cut metal just good as wood when given the right blade. They also make good sanders if you make a guide perpendicular to the sanding disk to guide your work more easily.
On the safety issue a couple of points should be made that weren't made in the movie. First, the narrative said over and over that radial arm saws are mainly for ruff cuts and dado work. Well, when cutting a dado you really don't stand much chance of picking up the work off the table as the blade tips never get "under" the piece.
Another use that was completely overlooked is that of shaping. With the compound blade angles available on a RAS you can run a long piece of molding through in rip direction but with the blade at a 45 degree to the feeding direction creating a cove. Other shapes can be created with shape blades that look something like a dado set but have shaped chisels for teeth. It is much more difficult to do long trim on a table saw and impossible on a sliding crosscut saw.
To be clear, I wasn't advocating RAS use only for rough cuts and dadoes as a general rule, I just happen to use my own saw for those purposes. And, actually, I really don't even use it for dadoes anymore. I know there are lots of people who enjoy tools and machinery in an end to themselves, or who get a kick out of a single machine being able to accomplish multiple tasks. I get that. However, for the people who just want efficiency and accuracy from their tools so they can build more quickly and precisely, the RAS has been superseded by other tools and methods which far outperform. The mouldings and shaping you mention are done on a router table, which is safer, cheaper and offers infinite possibilities. Cross cutting is done on sliding compound miter saws, which also have the advantage of being portable.
This one is exactly like mine which I purchased new around 1972. A bit dangerous for ripping. It threw a full sheet of 3/4 plywood around 4 feet. It has never been used for ripping since.
My new shop is under construction and I will incorporate it for dato and rough cross cut operations. I have recently found a negative hook blade will make it easier to control. They are available, but a little hard to find. Changing a few wires around allows it to work on 220 V. where it gets to full RPM in about 1/2 sec. It is extremely powerful in that configuration. Todays table saws have arbors too short for a 3/4 dato stack. I am going to build a new table for it.
Do you realize that you demo'd a back-feed rip? If I ever did something like that, then I too would be scared of ripping on an RAS, but when fed correctly, I prefer ripping on an RAS over a TS. I've had more binding and kickbacks on TS than RAS. The RAS also has much better capacity than TS, and that makes it easier to control the workpiece, and that means the RAS is safer.
We used to have an old (VERY OLD) green & black hammertone paint DeWalt in a factory that I worked in. We used it all the time for ripping & cross cuts. When the factory closed down they offered it to me for free...GREAT! then I looked at the ID plate on it, it was a 3 phase 550 Volt saw??? It stayed in the factory & now I just use my table saw.
I bought my Craftsman radial arm saw in 1963 and I still use it today. It is one of the most convenient power tools in my shop for cross cutting as apposed to setting up a sled on the table saw each time there is a cross cut. I can cut up to 16" and with some practice you can even reverse the piece and cut a further 5 or 6 inches accurately. I never rip with it any more although I did many rip cuts in the early years. Always scared me which I guess is a good thing. If it is dead accurate if you occasionally pay attention to the setup, but no more so than a table saw.
The Radial arm saw is in fact safer than any table saw including the infamous Sawstop. The reason why is kick back if used with a riving knife and kickback paws the RAS has virtually no kick back when ripping and because of the blade being over the wood instead of under you can actually see what's happening. You can do everything with a RAS that you can do with a table saw and miter saw combined and then some. Mine is also capable of shaping, routing, drilling and sanding. It also takes up less room than a good table saw does. I could go on but I been using one since I was 14 and I'm 65 now without a single mishap. Try to do a compound miter dado cut with anything else, without the help of jigs or endangering yourself. The RAS can do more than any 3 other machines as safe if not safer.
I'm glad you enjoy your RAS, but I'd argue you're grossly overstating the safety of a RAS over a table saw! For one thing, your experience maybe limited to certain types of cutting. I routinely wrestle a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood onto my table saw, for example, and cut 24 inch strips. Or, I'll rip a 16 foot pressure treated 2x10 through the table saw. On a RAS such work would be more dangerous or not even possible without extensive set-up. Or, go the other direction. Rip a 1/8 strip of 1x poplar from a short workpiece. On the table saw I can use push sticks far more efficiently and safely than a RAS. How about cutting tapers with a tapering jig? Safe and simple on a table saw, awkward and ill-advised on a RAS. Rip a slice from an existing cabinet face frame? Impossible on a RAS. Dust collection? Far superior on a table saw. Working on a jobsite? There are no lightweight, portable RAS. Point is, much depends on the type of work your are doing and the time you have to do it.
Ok the RAS, i have a newer craftsman it has a controlled feed, and with that in use it will only move at 3 slow speeds xcutting, or any operation where its cross feeding... also it's great at ripping feed into the blade not a climb cut as you were showing..... the RAS can replace every power tool in your shop and set in a small foot print.... it's not the best at everything, but set up properly it's good enough for everything.... also you forgot to mention the arbor opposed the blade.... 1/2 " x 20 threads.... ha you can install a drill chuck and use as a drill press, or a planer head and use as a planer, or a collet chuck and use as a router. Imo this is a superior tool for routing.... You can build a complete house using this tool from framing to cabinets. I agree it can be more dangerous that a miter saw a table saw a drill press a router a planer but only slightly.....but a tip to the operator the blade moves so keep your fingers out of its path.
I inherited my father's RAS when he passed in 1984. I used it for a few years then sold it. I found it was fine for carpentry work, but for furniture making, it wasn't accurate enough, so I sold it. Once I tried making dados with it and that was one of the scariest things I've ever done!
It wasn't tuned right or set up correctly.
I do like your videos, I just bought a nice craftsman RAS for $20. First shop I worked in I cut all their face frames with a RAS. Had to work hard at keeping it cutting square. Thanks again for all your videos.
Hey thanks for getting back to me on this. I will give both a try. Thanks for your videos too. I'm getting a lot of good info from them.
I wouldn't call ripping on it stupid as much as it is an operation that shouldn't be done just for the sake of it, as in, if you could rip with another tool easily, go for it. Dont just rip with the radial if your table saw is well equipped/you have the room for it. With proper set up and care on the right pieces of wood its a perfect option. My carpentry teacher swears by them for small shops and for trailer work stations because you can feed a long piece of wood through a doorway or cut out panel, allowing you to rip very long boards by pushing them through the shop area. After he described it i realized that if you wanted to be a handyman with a shop in a trailer that you haul to your site, a radial arm saw against the wall makes so much sense its hard to imagine not having one, and that long rip operation is a key part of that.
I'm afraid a radial arm saw wouldn't last very long on a trailer. Nothing lasts very long on a trailer! No matter how you tie/bolt/strap things down they inevitably come loose. Typically after a week of work I'll find miscellaneous bolts or nuts rolling around the trailer floor and I have to try and figure out which tool they fell off. A RAS with it's heavy head and long arm would be beat up pretty quickly. The ripping operation on a RAS I still think is a poor idea when table saws are available or even circular saws with a jig. I get that some folks just like the idea of an all-in-one machine in a small space, but it's not for me.
I rip with my radial arm all the time in both directions. My latest project was laying the saw flat, with the router guard, to make overlap joints for doors. I made a jig with a clamp so I can repeat cuts. I cut both the mortise and the tenon.
My Grandpa was missing two fingers on his left hand courtesy of a radial arm saw. Didn't scare him away from power tools and even still used an RAS, though I'm not sure if it was the one that claimed his digits. That didn't scare me away from power tools either but it did make an impression and I've always had a healthy respect for power tools and a mind towards safety. His accident was long before I was born, but just the sight of those missing fingers every time I saw him left a pretty good impression.
Anyway, any tool can be dangerous, and one must be conscious of where his or her body parts are at all times.
+Nathaniel Steele Thanks for sharing--and you are absolutely right about knowing where your body parts are. Another video of mine on table saw safety goes into this. Every time I make a cut on any type of saw I think about where my arms and hands will go if something goes wrong, I think about my stance and my weight balance, etc. The brain is the nest safety device.
I've been using a Dewalt 740 RAS for 39 years as my primary tool and I love it. You have nothing to fear with the saw if you respect it and are careful and aware at all times. Keep it properly adjusted and NEVER oil it, use powdered or liquid graphite with no oil. Always use the blade guards and adjust the front rip leaf hold down to 1/8" above the stock when ripping.
a little-known feature of some radial saw is...the little red plastic cap opposite the blade spindle, is for adding a drill chuckhead which can be used as a disc sander or a drill press using the crank to raise the matrial into the drillbit.
Good Vid - thanks. I always found the RAS in the shop very useful for making multiple repeat cross-cuts to my cutting list. Good point about the backstop - and ensuring you have a good quality ruler and lockable backstops that have been zeroed in accurately.
I got a RAS and knew nothing about it. Found out a few things PDQ. 1) The back stop has to be VERY straight and strong. 2) Cutting the wrong way IS dangerous. Cutting the right way isn't any more dangerous than a TS. 3) Ripping longer stock the right way on RAS is just abut the best way. The right way to rip is with the teeth coming up. If the teeth are going down the board can shoot out away from you like a rocket. Coming up at you - you'll need eye protection because sawdust comes streaming at you. Make sure the blade is parallel to your back stop. No problems. The only problem I have with my RAS (an old DeWalt) is after I rip something and swing the rig back to cross cut, I sometimes have to re-adjust which is not dangerous, but it does take time to get it just right. If you get an RAS, be sure to get an instruction manual that shows CLEARLY how to adjust the blade.
The beauty of an RAS is when you have to cross cut several pieces at the same length. Set a stop block on the back stop and no more measuring. Dadoing is easy, even with a single blade because you can cut pulling the rig and moving the board a little and pushing the rig. Once you get the hang of it, it goes fast. Ripping long stock.
Just make sure your RAS is adjusted right, and as for the saw chasing you around the room - get a good blade. the "come at you" is so minor as to not count. The only time it tends to do that is cutting through a knot but even that is nothing with a GOOD BLADE.
I inherited a dewalt power craft 350 from my dad who passed away. I have been slowly trying to learn about hand tools, the router. I saw this saw and was scared: I'd read somewhere they could be dangerous.
I would say I appreciate the view expressed in the video which suggests a table saw is better for ripping. I think for more confident and experienced woodworkers you are able to bend the rules or adapt more. Anyway it reminds novices to take safety seriously and know your machines and how to adjust. Also cool finding a use for an older saw.
Simeon Banner There's no reason to run away scared from a radial arm saw, but if you are a newbie to woodworking I'd say it demands more attention than some other machinery.
I have an old craftsman that I bought for $50. I bought it specifically to do kerfing. I needed to build two structural beams (glulams) that were about 16ft long at about a 16ft radius. 3.5" by 10" . Built forms an a floor and then kerfed 3/8" plywood and bent it around the forms....glued and screwed. Amazed by structural city inspector!
r chavez I did something very similar when I built a circular section of deck. I think I got away without having to cut kerfs and just using clamps and glue/screw, but the RAS is perfect for that sort of work.
r chavez Are you saying you built hollow beams lol? That's what it reads like. I'm confused.
I use my radial saw all the time. I agree 100% with you about ripping with it. It delivers a nice face full of sawdust on any rip cut. The table on my saw is made from 1 1/4' plexiglass from the bullet-proofing in an old bank office. It's marvelously flat and stable.and has been there for years.
+Glen Kelley Wow, that's interesting--I've never heard of anyone using plexiglass for a table before! I think re-use must be built into the DNA of woodworkers. I keep telling my wife: I'm not cheap, I'm frugal!
I always add a counter weight to my radial arm saw to pull the saw back to home. Sometimes to can get bounce back when you push the saw back too hard. It also can helps with keep the saw from moving forward to fast. You can tilt the saw back by raising the front leg. At 4:22 in the video you can see the saw wanting to move forward after he pushes it back.
RAS is no more dangerous than any other power saw as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. Ripping is a great feature of an RAS, especially long pieces of dimensional lumber. What you do have to do in order to make your RAS work accurately and safely, is set everything up right. As mentioned in this video the back stop MUST be straight and perpendicular to the saw blade. If you were using a table saw and the fence wasn't parallel to the blade you'd have the same problems. A cool feature of the RAS is you can (and should) adjust the blade for a perfect cut. Once you do that the RAS makes ripping and cross cutting a snap. One other thing. Get a blade with a negative hook which will all but eliminate the tendency of the saw to pull itself through the cut, which, if your saw is set up right, is not a big deal in the first place. I mean the saw isn't going to come tearing at you trying to take your arm off. Ha! Even with the wrong blade like in the video, the "come at you" factor is nothing much. You don't put your hand in front of the blade when cutting with any power tool, right? So no worries. Get a good blade, set your saw and table up right and you will come to love and depend on your RAS.
Thank you for sharing this video. It's been years ago since I used 1 of these saws. It's to have a refresher course before using again 👍🇺🇦
No disrespect intended, but using a saw in this condition, with clumsy techniques, is certainly asking for calamity. You've hung the blade in the fence kerf demonstrating miter adjustment (ping!), banged it against the table and arm demonstrating bevel. The rollerhead is far too loose and the arm is pitched toward the operator, so the motor rolls freely toward you. One must therefore assume that all the fine adjustments, such as blade squareness and heel, are off as well. I've used a DeWalt for 40 years without incident, ripping too, but I wouldn't try a simple crosscut with this saw.
A properly adjusted QUALITY radial arm with a SHARP blade and a conscientious operator is no more dangerous than anything else in the woodshop, and can be as precise if properly set up. No matter what the tool, keep your hand off the cutline, folks!
You are absoutly right. Any cutting tool must be sharpened properly to work properly and be safe. The tool must also be set up properly. The RAS is capable of many different cuts thus it has a lot of adjustments that all have to done in the correct sequence. I purchased my RAS new in 1972. The biggest problem I had was cutting 90 degree cross cuts. The adjustment manuel did not say anything about the fence. It turned out the fence on my saw was not stright, It had a slight curve. The first project I built with the saw was a set of stairs. Cut and assembled the whole stair and when I put it in place one bottom stringer was 3" off the floor. It drove me nuts trying to figure out what I had done wrong. Turns out the problem was the GD fence. If you did a 90 cross cut and it was exatly 90. When you flipped the board over and did a cut on the other side of the blade it was a 1/64 to 1/128" off square. Once I fixed this problem and redid the whole set up procedure everything was accurate and all future stairs fit. Also all the other cuts were acurate and fit as it should.
I use mine with a dado stack to cut perfect half-lap joints. I line the two pieces parallel to one another and make the cuts on both pieces at the same time. Since both dado paths are identical, it make for a great fitting joint in the field of the wood...as opposed to making end half-laps. As long as the depth is dialed in of course.
ballzack57 I agree--one excellent strength of a radial arm over other crosscutting saws is the crosscut dado. It's the primary reason I keep mine in my shop.
I use as a router , I put endmills in it, also use with abrasive disc And abrasive rounds . You screw in a jacobs style Chuck . You can rip with it but on lighter wood they had a doing hold down. You have it backwards to rip , you do it the other direction
As I mentioned in the comments I wasn't intending to show a direction for ripping, but the truth is that both directions are shown in the manual. That's right, there is no officially "correct" direction for ripping. Somewhere previously in these comments I even linked to a PDF of a Sears manual which shows pictures of ripping in either direction. I get a kick out of this old video of mine, because RAS owners are so passionate about their machines! I rarely use mine anymore and if it stops turning I'll just toss it. I own two compound miter saws, three table saws, and two router tables and I just don't find much use for the RAS saw.
Agreed--all saws can be dangerous. I do think, though, that radial arm saws have an increased potential for "surprise attacks" for users who get tired or let their attention slip. And ripping with a radial arm is something I just won't do--especially with a table saw nearby.
I'm my experience table saws can be just as dangerous when ripping long materal.
I rate and Ihave a Sears 10" RA Saw. Bought in 1980. Ideal for shops where you can not use a table saw taking up to middle of the floor. I have used table saws and actually prefer the RA and can do most everything the table can do plus it has an arbor for accessories. (never used) I use the anti kickback always and ripping right to left is less hazardous IMO than ripping on a table saw and the kickback device is much easier to use as it is always there unlike on most table saws where old times remove most of the time. I use the Final Cut blade and that is a disadvantage on a RA saw because the blade does not go through the wood into the table unless you have a thicker table. Unfortunately RA saws have fallen from grace and no one makes accessories for them like table saws. I actually prefer seeing the blade vs the table saw. recently I had to make a 58degree cut and couldn't do on a table saw wihtout a jig of some sort. Disagree with the inaccuracy comment for mine is quite accu
Thanks for the video - another advantage. But I like the RAS for everything.
I second the fact that the radial arm is up against the wall not in the middle of the shop. I bought my DeWalt ten years ago when a home remodel switched me to carpentry mode. My buddies have huge table saw workstations as shrines dominating their entire shop. I'm not doing nearly as much carpentry now but that DeWalt is still available , unobtrusively in line with my other workbenches. If I need to rip something super long I roll it around and use folding roller stands. I have a folding table saw in a shed out back that I'll bring out for the one task where it is superior. It's been 6-7 years since I did that and I can't remember what that job is.
One big advantage compared to table saw is the blade is on top and you can always see where the cut is going to be. In addition, the work is always held down; you won't make a pass and find you did not cut all the way through.
I don't expect to change anyone's mind if they can afford a new Jet or Delta table saw and have the space for it, but if you're on a budget like I was, go find an old DeWalt (or apparently some Craftsman's like the one in the demo which were made by DeWalt). Try to get one with a manual and follow it. I also recommend How to Master the Radial Saw by Wally Kunkel.
My Radial arm saw is very much like yours. It's a Craftsman that I bought new in 1964 or '65. I believe yours may be a few years newer, judging by a couple of the knobs on your saw. I see the switch on top the arm has been changed. I had to do the same, changed it about 25 years ago.
I don't mean to be contradictory but I have never had a problem ripping with my RAS. I just ensure that I have a good clean blade and check to see that it is perfectly aligned (parallel) to the fence and feed the wood piece in against the direction of the blade (a mistake easily made by a noobie.) I am also very careful to place the anti-kickback mechanism at the proper height and off course I use a push stick.
It's still a good tool even after 49 or 50 years, though it does need some fine tuning. I'll also have to build a new table for it because they do get beat up rather quickly.
I do agree with you however that without proper precautions they can be dangerous. It is not the kind of tool to be used by a rookie without advice from an experienced person.
Of course, many people do rip with RAS machines and find them useful. Safety issues aside I would just become annoyed with the additional setup to go from cross cutting to ripping each time and the physical approach required on a RAS versus a table saw. I mostly use my RAS for cross cut dados, lap joints, and for rough sizing of long boards. If I had to give up one machine in my shop, though, it probably would be my RAS.
I also use mine for ripping. It takes maybe 2 seconds to lift the locking knob and swing the carriage 90 degrees. I used mine almost exclusively for ripping, particularly sheets of plywood, and thought it was way better than a table saw for that purpose. I did have mine mounted in the middle of my 12' workbench though. When ripping you don't have the "riding it's own cut" problem, you push it through the correct way.
I had the exact RAS as the video. My dad gave it to me. He had it since I was about 10, in 1976 and I don't even think he bought it new back then. LOL. Old saw! Mine recently started to squeal, so, being that it was soooo old, I gave it away.
Decent video though. RAS are limited nowadays, but if you took a few minutes to square everything up before cutting, it was an accurate powerhouse in it's day.
hang3xc1 Actrually, thinking about it, I don't know if you eliminate the climbing it's cut thing. I remember it had kickback teeth you dropped down, along with a kerf spacer thing. maybe it was just plywood was heavy enough that I never noticed it getting sucked in
It's been probably 13 years since I've used one of these I find them very handy if cutting large deck boards, such as 2x10's and larger and probably my favorite machine for cutting 4x4's as long as your fence is high enough and secure
Brent Clark Yes, cross cutting thick lumber is a strength of the RAS.
I have had the very same model saw as yours since it was new in about 1965, I was 16 when I got it. You need a good negative rake blade, night and day difference. You also need new bearings. Take care and use it properly and it's a very useful tool for stock break down and many other things.
You're right--my bearings are shot! For my purposes I'll just run the saw until it dies and then throw it out. I have two other cross cutting saws and three table saws, so the RAS really isn't doing much for me. Sounds like you got your money's worth out of yours, though!
great video. well explained. I now have ideas on how I'm going to incorporate my grandfathers old saw in my workshop.
Got my saw working again. Thx again for your help!
Thank you sir. Just got a used one, your video has been extremely useful!
I inherited a Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw (w/ cabinet base) from my Dad originally purchased circa 1960. It's been sitting quietly in the corner and while it runs could use some TLC. It has a belt sander attachment on the back that runs off the motor but it's a nuisance, awkward, etc., pulling the saw away from the wall to use. I've been looking for the [then] available base to mount the sander (& motor) as a standalone tool w/o success. One of these days I'll cobble together a home made version. Great posting. Thanks ....
I have this very saw in my basement shop. 40 bucks -- and it came with all kinds of little jointers & planers & other stuff I'll never use. Mine's a little older than yours. Can't remember the year. Old though. You can send in the motor and carriage assembly for a hundred bucks. I figure I'll use mine until it blows up and then send it in.
I rip with mine. Just feed it the right way and lower the guard to the surface of your stock and it's safe enough. Better to do it with a table saw, but until I get my old Delta/Rockwell 12/14 restored it'll have to do.
The safe way (hah!) to use this saw is to keep your arm stiff and straight as you pull it towards you. Seems awkward at first but one grows accustomed to it. Beats amputation and/or mutilation any day. Cheers!
I bought a Powercraft RAS in 1968 and have ripped miles of wood on it. The saw came with directions. I follow them.
Sorry to disagree, but I've owned both, and after proper setup it's very obvious to me and many others that the RAS is the tool of choice, unless one is setting up a production wood shop. It's obvious that the hidden from view blade of the TS is far more hazardous than the totally visible RAS blade. Likewise, anchoring the workpiece and pulling the tool thru the cut is logically much safer than moving the workpiece thru the tool. RAS takes up much less space in the shop and does much more too
Useful video. Thank you. It was helpful in my pondering of purchasing an available used unit.
Small shops can be tough to equip sometimes. One option would be to replace your radial arm with a good table saw, and then use straight edge clamps with a small circular saw for cross-cutting. I like having both a table saw and a radial arm (as well as other saws) in my shop, but if push came to shove I'd stick with my table saw.
this is actually safer in my opinion than a table saw for ripping as you always know where the blade is. if you use the right blade, are aware of where your hands are, and use it correctly, you should be fine.
i also disagree with you saying this is not an acurate saw. it comes down to what unit you got and if you tuned it in correctly. your fence is fixed so you tighten your bolts and dial it in when you set it up and you will be very pleased with your cuts. very reliable saw
Operator comfort is part of safety, so more power to you if you like ripping on a radial! I don't quite follow you on the capacity assertion, though.
its getting very difficult to find a RAS anymore. I predict that they will be all but phased out in the near future. If you are thinking about getting one I suggest you take the first opportunity and get it now. I think Sears still carries them in their inventory but most other big stores are not showing them anymore.
+JIMMY TATE I think you're right. I went into a sears a few months ago to try to get a socket wrench replaced (apparently "lifetime" means something different to sears than to me!) and I saw a RAS on the floor, but that's the only one I've seen at any vendor for years and years.
Thank you sir. I think you are spot on!
Thank you for making this video! I was given this exact model recently.
Late to the party, I just bought a used Radial Arm Saw (Craftsman 1976). Reason: It a simple and fast way to make lap joints (Dado Blade) on 2x4, 2x6, etc. The is the simplest and cheapest method I could find, no other tool can do this as easily. 4 or 5 passes gets you perfect lap joint on a 2x6. The used saw was $100.00 and the dado blade was $100.00 so total price = $200.00.
It's true, RAS are great for crosscut dados, as long as they aren't longer than the arm of the saw. However, newer sliding compound miter saws now also have a depth stop which allows you to do the same thing. Not all can accommodate a wide dado blade, though. Lap joints are short so they work well, although a table saw is about equally as quick to configure with a blade and make the joint with a miter gauge. When building cabinets I often find that the RAS arm just isn't long enough for shelf dadoes so I end up using either a table saw or a router with a jig.
i've done alot of ripping on my radial arm saw. I kinda agree that it is dangerous, so i always take extra precaution. Personally im not entirely comfortable ripping with it but I don't currently own a table saw because my garage is to small. If i do get a table saw im going to possibly have to ditch my radial and im not sold on that idea yet.
I noticed your saw is missing a blade guard. Craftsman had a recall on their RAS. I don't have the website handy but google Craftsman RAS recall. You enter the model #. What you get, is a blade guard, with the dust port on the backside(not in your face), a new handle, new wooden table, and instruction booklet.ALL THIS IS FREE! Be safe.
Thank You so much for the video and especially the warning on ripping wood with the Craftsman's Radial Arm Saw. My husband recently dropped dead at my feet of a massive heart attack. Since then I've moved from Texas to Florida to be near my Son. My son was given this saw as the man owed him $40.00 for over a year. My Son warned me not to use this saw unless he was around and to tell you the truth, this saw scares the hell out of me. My husband and I built Big Boy Adirondack Chairs and which I am attempting to do by myself. It's tough trying to rip 8' and 12' boards, by myself. I was reading up on Grip Tite magnetic feather boards this morning when I happened upon your video. I think I'll leave this saw to the Professionals. I can use it to cut the seat boards, but I think that's about as much as I'm going to use it for. Thank You again for the safety advise.
A table saw is likely a better bet for you. And, look into infeed/outfeed rollers to make longer boards easier to manage.
enduringcharm, Thank You for the "life saving" advice. To hell with that saw, may as well be a paper weight. LOL
I will never replace my Dewalt 7740 RAS. Do most of my cuts for joining cross cutting and ripping on it. My table saw only rips the bigger and longer lumber. You cannot dismiss the accuracy settings on the RAS. Safety is alway's a factor and the users responsibilty. I think that injuries occur with negligence and limmited knowledge regarding a RAS.
"why you would need a radial arm saw"?
1. If set up properly, they're great for crosscuts, bevels, miters, and compound miters. Radial saws have adjustments. RTFM (read the f***ing manual) & learn how to adjust for straight crosscuts, accurate miters, and accurate bevels. Also, tilt that motor & make sure that the arbor is flat to the table.
2. They're excellent for cutting dados & rabbets.
3. With my current fence setup on the Craftsman I bought 25 years ago, I can rip sheets of plywood in half with ease.
4. The auxiliary shaft at the opposite end of the motor is a great place to attach a chuck for drilling & boring, as well as attaching a drum sander or a sanding disc. It's easy to build a jig to adapt the radial saw for sanding.
Are they dangerous? You bet. So is any other sharp tool (vegetable peeler, meat cleaver, pocket knife, chisel, jig saw, whatever), especially when you attach that sharp tool to a 2 HP or 3 HP motor that spins the blade at 5,000 RPM ... be it a radial saw, table saw, power miter, or something else. Keep your body parts away from the blade. Keep your body out of the path of kickbacks. Wear protective equipment.
I grew up with two RAS's in my dad's workshop: an old Craftsman set up for crosscuts & miters, and an ancient Dewalt set up with a stacked dado set.
FWIW, I do NOT like using a wobble blade for dados. Stacked dado sets make flatter cuts at the bottom. Making a deep dado cut can be dangerous on any saw; sometimes, you just need to make multiple passes.
Also, Sears used to sell a molding head & bits for their radial saws. I don't think the average radial saw spins the blades fast enough to make safe, clean cuts with the molding head. Using one of these was the only time that my radial saw scared me ... and I can't begin to count how many board feet of 1x and 2x lumber that I have run through radial saws over the past 40 years. If you want to make molding, but a shaper or a router.
Yes all blades can be danagerous especially dull ones. The molding head works fine, I've made lots of cabinet doors with it. to make it safer use the guard that is designed for use with the spindle in the vertical position.
I'm gonna try using mine as a shaper. Our table top shaper is under powered for some of the bigger cutters. I'll make a micro adjustable fence and it should fill the need without having to shell out some big $$$$ for an industrial shaper.
Phil Lowman Thee is a special guard required when using the molding head to shape. A Google search should help you.
Phil Lowman There is a special guard required when using the molding head. A Google search should help you.
I'm blind and I've used one many times. If you use it write, it is not dangerous. I have done crosscutting and ripping on it. I always rip in the same way I crosscut. I just turn the board. The only problem I have noticed with ripping is that the saw is a little harder to control.
I rip with mine. I have an ancient DeWalt, I've ripped long boards with it. I've cut long rabbets on it I would rip on my radial arm saw before I'd do it on my table saw for sure. If you have everything locked in place, especially the crosscut and watch WATCH WHAT YOU ARE DOING, you can rip with a radial arm saw with very few problems but that's just my take on it.
thank you for the info. got the same style, and still learning its tricks.
John,
Once again helpful video, please ignore all critics, except those with valid points such as being able to see the cuts... I am studying for the business exam here and wanted to review the saw- also the Fort Myers shop is growing- all the best, Jon
Plus, I wanted to give you kudos on all the safety comments, way under-stated these days, and critical. Please see Frank's video too as his infinite knowledge concurs with exactly several points you touch upon- ua-cam.com/video/1IPbqibZhEo/v-deo.html
Hey great channel/ interesting content! I've been a carpenter all my working life and although ive always enjoyed woodworking I've gotten into the hobby much more seriously the past few years... That said I've acquired probably 3 or 4 of every stationary machine (which is entirely too much) for the shop over the years however I just recently decided to add my first radial arm saw to the shop, as I came across one for free.... I believe I have the same ras as you do... The only discernable difference as far as I can see is the mine is currently farm fresh and missing the silver grill the covers the front of the base.... I haven't really spent much time investigating yet but thd little time I did look I was unable to find the model number which is usually quite easy to locate on the old crapsman machines. I believe alignment and surface rust removal will be the only requirements to start putting it to work... I only plan on using it for dados and possibly breaking down linear material. Is this a decent machine as far as ras's go? Is it worth tuneing up in your opinion (my ras knowledge is not vast)? Also what model number is your saw, or where is it located? Thanks for your time and consideration regarding this !
I'm not sure I can even find a model number on my saw, but there are websites which offer old tool literature and model specs you might want to check out. Since you got your RAS for free, it is worth fixing up if you have the space. It can be fun and rewarding to restore old tools. However, I suspect that, like me, you will turn to other tools when precision, speed and quality matter. These days I use my RAS only for rough cuts to length. I have a sliding miter saw set up nearby that I use for precision cuts.
I do normally re-level the machine every so often so that the saw is balanced on the arm, and keeping a bias toward the back is probably a good idea.