someone mentioned already, but a steel pole barn is a necessity to keep that loco healthy during the winter. also you might want to wear a respirator, theres lead paint on that loco for sure.
I was going to mention lead based paint as well. Also I hope they're going to spray something on it for rust abatement or prevention or else that steel will start to rust so fast you can see it after all that paint comes off. Wouldn't be a good base to put a coat of paint on without that step.
Brian, after Needle scaling 2 Alco RS-18's on the Adirondack Scenic, your engine would be a piece of cake 🎂. 2 days ready to be painted 😀. Got a color scheme for it? Richard Bause
I would suggest wearing a good respirator as there is probably lead in that old paint. Even if there is no lead it would be a good idea. You can buy a test kit to check for lead.
The infamous’ Needle Gun’ . Used many times in the Engine Room of the USS Hewitt DD 966. Don’t miss it but respect you guys for getting that Locomotive. “ Squared Away “ . Great Videos guys, don’t stop 🇺🇸
I wish I had known you were doing this and I had the time to do this, I'd of volunteered to do this Skipper. I am a former Coastie and in my early days on Coast Guard Cutters out of Boot Camp when I was a lowly, Non-Rate Boot, I was on the deck force of my first boat. We called these "Needle Guns" and I "fired" more of this kind of "gun" in the service than one that shoots bullets. I actually loved to use those to get after the rust that always cropped up on a metal boat operating in a saltwater environment. The pneumatic sanders, needle guns and grinders sure do make sure and short work of rust. You may want to knock down more if it, get it down to bare, shiny metal. We used two types of primers. The first was a thin green primer we would quickly put on that we called "Green Death," putting it on as we went along, then later putting on a red colored primer called "Red Lead" prior to putting on the paint. I don't know what either of those primers were. They came from the military version of Lowe's, Menard's or Home Depot. I never found a civilian counterpart to these two part primers. I've been working the past month or so getting a long held lake house at Indian Lake for sale, and with that mission accomplished, I am about to head back to Florida for the winter. About a week or so ago when driving around Lebanon, Ohio, there was a crew spray painting one of the locomotives and an old Pullman car that run on the LM&M passenger line out of Lebanon. They were spray painting them out in the open air on a side rail. That is the way to go. I wish that we could have spray painted the decks, bulkheads and deck fixtures on our Cutters. We did it with brushes and rollers. The work would have really gone much faster and would have done a better job. I love this video. I want to see this loco all nice, pretty and shiny with a fresh coat of paint. Good day, ya'all. SEMPER PARATUS. When you are done with her, I'll be happy to say your work is BRAVO ZULU.
@@eastterminalrailway5975 I agree Your time (and expertise) are best used on the railroad and mechanicals . A repaint job would best be done by those with that skill set, professional or volunteer :).
Having used the needle gun extensively myself, i recommend not only protective ear and eye items, but also the heaviest grade gloves you can get - the vibration that needle gunning gives is not only very unpleasant after using for long periods, but can also cause nerve damage. Personally, i reckon grit blasting would be much faster and efficient - the less time exposed metal is left untreated, the more problems it will cause. As to livery ? Take a look at JR's livery styles - best in the world, much like their railways. i'd go for the diesel shunter DE 10, DD 51 livery myself - grey, red and white.
A needle hammer is in my humble opinion good for removing 'heavy' dirt (concrete on steel, for example); But it does also the job on old paint. I rather prefer a wire brush on an angle grinder, because I think it is faster. There are also air-driven Angle grinders available somewhere. Anyway, have a nice weekend!
You would better served by renting a sandblaster. Much faster and more efficient. OR, look for a company that does this with a portable media blaster. They can come out to the jobsite and take care of business in no time. HOWEVER route you choose, make sure you spray the exposed metal with an etching primer to prevent it from rusting again. Also, in regards to the two engines, there are outfits that have portable steam cleaners that will again, come to your worksite and steam clean both engines and the engine bays. Just an fyi...
I was thinking the same, a sandblaster or soda blaster would be much quicker and easier. The ETR may not have the budget for that being it is a young startup operation. But, the sooner they paint it and it looks good and professional, they can start to attract clientele easier.
@@gotchagoing8843 I have a single income too 24000$ a year, I'm in low income housing and the only reason I have a car is a friend bought it for me ,when I retire it will be SS period. This man already knows what he needs. My brother was a helicopter mechanic in 'nam in '66 he was on SS ,but he wasn't disabled and made more money than me, he died this past January, he suffered from PTSD but got nothing for it, but worked through it by helping those that came home without limbs and other body parts working with his church to help his brothers find peace and some normalcy, my brother died of pneumonia. I miss him. Have a wonderful evening.
I agree, but frozen CO2 blasting would be best. "Sand" blasting works great, but the grit gets in all sorts of places you don't want it to. Ideally, if you were going to sand blast everything (Aluminum oxide abrasive) you'd want to strip the locomotive down to it's major components--- Pull the engines, generators and trucks. Strip out the electronics/electrical, windows, etc... Sand blast the superstructure down to bare. Disassemble the trucks to protect the traction motors and then start in on the structure. Anyway... Lots of time, work and money. Probably more of everything than they can or want to pay for.
@@rearspeaker6364 There is more than one type of 'media' that can be used. 'Sand blasting' is a catch phrase for media blasting, sand just being one type of media.
@@WHJeffB frozen CO2? So basically blasting with dry ice sleet? I've never heard of that before. sounds pretty neat and you're left with zero left over abrasive media once the ice sublimates.
I have a needle scaler that I bought from Horror Freight a while back, and have gotten a lot of good out of it blasting through really rough scale on the frame of my old truck. One thing about them is the fact that if there's any kind of weakness it will find it whether its a crack or a hole. It found a broken spring on my truck hidden under a bunch of rusty scale. I've found that holding back a bit helps rather than holding tight against the metal. Eats right through heavy stuff. Worth the money to keep around. If I do find a good brand at a pawn shop I will snap it up!
After buying all the Appropriate PPE, I wonder whether sorting out a solution for a lock-up to stop the weather getting to your precious vintage locomotive. Thanks for all your enthusiasm & giving me my D.D.O.T for the day. 😎👍👌😷
Gotta give you respect ole man , you’re not afraid of work. You and I both know theirs a better way to do this job. This way seems like it’s going to take more time than needed.
And no disrespect I know it’s your dream and you’ve only invited us in to watch and inspire. Just I’m from a generation of making the machine work not me
I'm reminded of the guy who saw a farmer holding a hog up in a tree so he could get to the apples. The guy said to the farmer "Isn't that gonna take a long time?". The farmer replied "I guess so, but what's time to a dern hawg?". That needle gun is gonna take forever. I think I would go with a chemical strip, THEN hit the rust with the needle gun. Or an air powered disk or wire wheel. Respirator, eye protection and gloves, for sure. As said elsewhere, I betcha lots of that paint is lead based. Wish I was in the area, I love the songnthose old Cummins sing. I'd surely take a turn at the needle gun.
I am a stone cutter/carver, and I do use some Harbor Freight tools (sanders/angle grinders), but I consider them to be disposable. I do not buy any warranties. I do keep the dead tools around so that I can make "frankentools" when one fails prematurely. I have had brand new HF tools fail almost immediately, and it has been my experience that you never know which component of these cheap tools will go. I include the cost of any HF tool that I will use in a job in each bid. If the tool outlives the job, it is profit, and that extra cost is not significant enough to price me out of the market, even if there was competition for what I do in my market. On the other hand, my air hammers that drive my stone chisels are bullet proof, and I have several that are more than 100 years old and going strong. Several are brands that went out of business during WWI. If I need a new piston for one of those (rare!), I just have a machine shop turn one for me. The end bushings are also replaceable. They are similar to your needle scaler, they just hit a chisel rather than a pack of needles. They also run like your needle scaler, as that they don't have any triggers, and if you want to vary the impact or frequency of the tool, you just put your thumb on the exhaust.
Thank you for sharing. You two are going to be forever with that needle scaper, have someone sandblast it for you. Much fast and I am sure you already know this. Volunteers are waiting to help.
Love the new video. Thanks. Rule 108 Civil and courteous behavior is required of all employees at all times. Rule 109 Do not get paint chips in the new Coffee Mug. Great that the loco supplies the air needed to remove the old paint. Really like the nice stone ballast under the loco. You are great Americans showing us the way to get things done. Every day is more progress and the work is impressive.
That Air Needle work's great in small use But doing that Engine will Take FOREVER.... You will be there a Year Good Luck can't wait to See it painted and the Rails open...
For sure old needle gun get it done but eats up a lot of time . Sandblast it or wet blast it be the fastest way to get it done! Be a good idea to spray or paint on some ospho rust killer! I pot on gallons of the stuff offshore on oil rigs it kills rust and the a good coat of primer and paint she be shining like a diamond! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing that Loco pulling some cars or at least some mow equipment.
Back in the 90's when I did volunteer work for a transportation museum and we were repainting boxcars and cabooses and even locomotives we used a "Bead Blaster" that used ground up corn cobs instead of sand to knock off the paint and it worked GREAT... Maybe you guys would consider a similar process on 2021 because it is quicker and leaves the carbody a lot smoother after bead blasting it with the ground up corn cobs... Just make sure that you have your protective suit and other PPE on because the corn cobs will sting...
Wow you guys have come a long way since the beginning until now with progress! I can't wait to see that locomotive painted and customers starting to use your services.
I can vouch for the quality of Harbor Freight needle scalers. They work just fine and I have used them to take off hundreds of square feet of old paint.
Harbor freight needle scaller works good and.under 40 bucks. I have used one for years on heavy truck repair. Alittle ATF used as air lube and cleaner,they last just fine.
I think to make this easier, what you need is a pan big enough to hold the engine hood doors and enough exapo-rust to fill it. A lot less needle scaling you'll have to do.
Well in the UK we call them a needle gun For descaling rust not paint we use a flapper disc for paint removal or shot blast paint off and we use UPOL GREY ZINC primer for the first undercoat it's a cellulose-based paint
Very cool but I have to agree with the safety tips mentioned below. First thing I was taught in restoration was "you may love that engine but that engine does not love you and will hurt you every chance it gets."
A large grinder with a 4" wire wheel will work just fine. Take off the rusty bubbly areas down to the metal and scratch up the painted areas for primer adhesion. It is almost November with temp's dropping. In a few weeks it will be too cold to spray primer and paint. More grinding and less coffee time.
Oh WoW Eastern Terminal Railway. TEAM...........WHAT a neat crew ,Dad &Son .. We are Extremely impressed with your .."We can make it work if......."Attitude.........But please protect your selfs.. wear gloves,respiratory protective dont keep your food and zCoffee near your work....We know you two do great inspiration work for all of your many EASTERN TERMINAL RAILWAY FOLLOWERS.......Question for the ETR SAFTEY DIVISION......IF YOU TWO GET HURT.....?????$$$$...What are the rest of us supposed to do.....With out our Wonderful great EASTERN TERMINAL TRANSLOAD RAILWAY PRIZED GREAT VALUE....TEAMS..?????.....(Please note this comment isn't met to be mean,rude,or hurtful..we are just concerned...because our Loving father was just like you ,He never wore gloves,or respiratory protective ,He had that "It wouldn't hurt me."....He died 20 years too early ,trying to build a Railway too...we all Miss him Dearly... You two Talk and act thick alikeThe Same.... You would have all gotten along.....Well many God Prayers...and May God over run the Eastern Terminal Transloads Facilities Railway with Customers........WoW we can Hardly wait for the Video...."Moving our first Car" We expect the shots of Car Arriving....,Grafm pouring the first "sparking Apple CEDAR " on the 2021 as she Coulpes up to it ..............
once painted, a cathode on one end of the body and an anode on the opposite end with a 2 or 3 volt trickle charge will prevent oxidation. Yes...it works. There is equipment that is built just for trains.
Recommend wearing a dust mask. Some older paints have lead. Much impressed with your entrepreneurial spirit and work ethic. Wishing you and yours the best of luck. I will keep following.
I hope you will prime the areas that you needled before they rust... Also do you have a building in which you can paint the locomotive?? Painting anything needs to be done in an environment that keeps dust and dirt away from the painted surface. I used to work at a railcar rebuilding company in Hamburg SC so I know first hand the problems with painting rail road equipment. Building a pole-barn big enough to house the loco and give you enough room for the compressors and other equipment would not be too hard. Adding some siding will help in the winter as well. So Good Luck with your work and I will continue to follow your episodes..
Good job on the paint/rust removal! If I can suggest another method is to use a dewalt wire cup brush attached to an angel grinder. I have found it does a great job in removing paint/rust without damaging the metal.
I Love old railroad equipment and old cars. I like to restore and fix things. If it was my locomotive I would give it a top restoration top to bottom. Make it something to proud of to represent the company.
In the UK we monitor HAVS exposure (hand, arm vibration syndrome) and I would expect the needle gun is going to be a problem with use over any significant area of the loco.
The Grey paint might not be lead paint but I can almost garontee the origional paint under it is. You don't want to breath in lead paint dust. I would recommend a good respirator to avoid any issues.
Aircraft paint remover may be quicker in this application. My main concern here is rust, on some of the more trouble areas POR15 is a great rust converter/gloss black basecoat made to go over weathered metal, definitely worth considering
I bought one of those Harbor Freight needle scalers to take the rust and scale of the frames of a 30 year old pickup truck. The needle scaler cleaned that frame right up. I just painted the frame with rust killer primer after that. No need to worry about the smoothness of the finish there. :-)
Graham needs to knock off an armored truck and use the money to hire some guys to strip and paint that locomotive. I'm not trying to make the boy into a fugitive, but I don't want him to start disliking the railroad either. As legoscout says, "Train restoration is great....." I say, "Yes, especially when the prep and painting is done by someone else". Great video.
its safe to say, you could get some volunteers to help you.......just make sure everyone signs a liability release. yes I know it's those dirty words, but he don't need ankle biters either.
Awesome!!!! You need an face filter mask and eye goggles for your protection / safety when removing paint. It's one of OSHA's Work Safety Requirements.
I used one of them when i worked on the river we took off the paint on a towboat.and primered it and then painted it we worked from top of the pilot house to the waterline and it turned out good even though we were stripping 8 layers of paint to get to the bare metal
Hi folks, ever thought about axial wire brushes for the grinder? "Topfbürste" Select one with thick, twisted wires. But first make sure to wear eye protection!!!!! Wires will break and fly away fast. Could work faster and creates a smooth surface without wasting substance of the locomotitive. The needler ist still good in corners and the door bands etc.
Sandblasting is the best way to go. The second alternative is to use a 5 inch grinder with a heavy duty wire brush. Then use a rust neutralize solution on really bad areas. If you don’t the rust will come right back. Best wishes!
Wouldn't sand blasting the locomotive be easier than doing all that needle scaling and sanding? It would cut out the orbit sander step and speed up the paint removal wouldn't it? You could still use the locomotive air and because your abrasive is sand or say something biodegradable like crushed walnut shell it would be just as safe as the needle scaler. Either way the paint is still going on the ground unless you put a plastic cocoon around the locomotive including on the ground to catch it all. I'd choose sand blasting because I've used a needle scaler to remove heavy, thick rust scale during the restoration of a steam locomotive that had set outside all it's working life and then 30 more years with no maintenance leaving it with no paint at all. The locomotive had already been striped down leaving the boiler and framed attached to each other just sitting on the wheels and axles. We jacked it up high enough to roll the wheels and axles out then set it on blocks high enough to be able to get under it comfortably. The part of the frame behind the backhead where the cab sits, which had rusted almost completely away before removing what was left; is the area I used the needle scaler on. The frame of a steam locomotive as you know or can imagine is very thick and this one had an ⅛" of rust scale that looked like scale you'd see inside the boiler but thicker, built up on it in this area and others. Taking all day to do this area proved it would take too long to needle scale the entire locomotive so we chose to sand blast it instead. We were in the roundhouse which has a concrete floor and five bays set up for restoration projects with two being a machine shop. We made a wood frame around the locomotive and covered it with plastic to control the dust and mess best as possible. It was only an 0-6-0 so we got the sand blasting done in a 10 hour day. Set up and prep work was done the day before and clean up the day after. Then we had to wipe the locomotive down with mineral spirits to get the dust and oils off to start the painting process. We used a rust inhibitor on it before the primer. It was milky looking in the container and as it was applied but dried clear and shinny like polyurethane and made the remaining rust under it look a dark almost black color. I can't remember the name of this stuff but it was some good stuff I thought. Then two coats of primer, two coats of black, and a clear coat. We did the same process with the axles and wheels and this locomotive was on it's way to nice cosmetic restoration as a static display in the backshop, when the restoration of the backshop itself was finished. After this work I helped do that's as far as the project went and it was parked back outside in the yard and that's where it's been since. That was in summer 2002. The backshop has been mostly restored and is beginning to be filled with displays but there's no mention of the little 0-6-0 Bonsal steam locomotive having its cosmetic restoration finished any time soon. Bonsal is the name of the company that owned the locomotive and a huge sand pit where it worked all its life hauling car loads of sand out of the pit to the processing building day and night for many years. That's why we call it the Bonsal locomotive. Not sure of its number or if it had one. The southwestern NC coastal plain almost in SC, just east of Lilesville NC is where this company is located, where the locomotive came from, and is still in operation to this day far as I know although I'm not sure the company name is still W.R.Bonsal. Wow! I guess I like to tell rambling stories about something that is only slightly related to the topic of a video. I'm still posting this because it took so much time to type but I didn't realize until the end how long it was. What was the video about again? 😅🤦♂️🤷♂️ Oh and by the way I love the content of your channel and the videos are great! They're good enough to bring back memories I have from almost 20 years ago. Stay well. -Wil 👍
That's what my boss use to do on 40 yard containers in our storage yard that got to rusty looking, took a while but it brought them back to like knew once he was done sandblasting and re-stenciling the company logo on it.
Do not quote me because i have not done any major Corrosion Control efforts since 2006 (when i left NAS Point Mugu to go to the Eisenhower) but Abrasive Sand Blasting is supposed to be in doors with excellent ventilation systems. Outdoors? Away from prying eyes (like Ohio OSHA)... I would still restrict myself to hand tools for costs more than anything else. That being said, i guess needle gunning would be the most efficient means (again, like he said, based on the material being worked on, as well as thickness plus IDK if they make DryHoner units in the civilian sector like the small portable units we had on ship for aircraft use). But if it was me, i would have just either gunned or power sanded the corroded spots and repainted over the non-damaged paint. Unless you really NEED it to look Pretty, i would just treat the CC spots and be done. To remove paint from metal that isn't corroded seems a waste of time (especially for a small barely-for-profit gig that ETR hopes to be) because repainting the whole unit to look or appear 'new' would require major rework effort, to the point of being hella fucking expensive. I could get away with things like that in the Navy but probably not in the civilian sector....
@@tehpw7574 The look of equipment says a lot to a potential customer no matter what business you're in. Patching up all the holes, cleaning out and redoing the cab, and putting a nice shiney new paint job over the entire locomotive implys we take care of our equipment and we'll take care of yours. So I'd say that putting a new expensive paint job on the locomotive and polishing it to a blinding shine would be a good impression on a potential customer. Keeping it polished and waxed continues to say to the customer, your freight cars are in good hands that will take care of them and treat them like we do our own equipment. 👍
I was a merchant seaman for 30 yrs and we used needle guns but now they have a laser gun to is so much easier and quicker. Also use to use sand blasters but that makes a mess.
May I suggest using a wire brush in an L Head Grinder. It will remove the paint down to the metal and will leave the metal shiny and un-pitted all in one step. It will be much faster than the needle scaler, too.
I was thinking lead paint also. You need to have a plan to safely dispose of what you take off. You may end up hiring someone to strip and dispose of the paint. You know, guys dressed in bunny suits. It would be lots of $$ but maybe cheaper than an EPA-OSHA fine (and they'd still force you to hire those people).
I'd not want lead paint chips/dust/residue getting on my skin! Wear long sleeve denim/etc and good gloves too. And all the other suggestions here. I know you're just demo'ing for us, but please protect yourselves AND the ground(water) too.
We called it a air chipper, used it to knock off flux from stick welding old locos, use gloves & a face shield plus like everyone is telling you a respirator or at least good masks, lot of work but boy will it pay off!
Watching you with the needle gun took me back to my days aboard ship. Your locomotive is a lot smaller than the ship was so it shouldn't take too long.
Pin scaler for very heavy rust, Wire air brush to knock off surface rust and heavy flaking paint, Sand blast with heavy to finer grain. Prime as you go to prevent surface from rusting.... Just a lot faster. In some cases a gas welding torch can knock of penetrated rust too! ..... Then again a toothbrush and tube of Colgate seems interesting!
yea,I would look into one of those mobile dustless blasting people. They could have the entire unit blasted inside and out in a day and ready for paint. Contact some rail museums in the area and see if they have anyone they use. Might find someone willing to do it for a discount being you are restoring a vintage locomotive like this.I am guessing $2000-3000 for the exterior to pay full price to have it totally stripped.
Second (or tenth by now) on getting a media blaster out there, and using a good primer right away. It may be worth considering something like Coroseal as a pre-primer or POR15, especially for the underside. Maybe an auto body guy would be able to give some relevant advice on the proper technique and products, I'm sure we have a few in the comments here.
Needle Gun...pure old school Navy. If I had a nickel for every minute of going to sleep on a ship listening to sailors at work with needle guns, I would be well off indeed. Like the plan for the thick metal. quite right about the thinner sheet metal on the inside of the cab....mgb
I saw the needle scaler when I worked for a Toyota back in 2011/12 during the Tundra frame rot recall. They would use those to remove the rust so the technician could determine if it required a new frame or just cleaned and coated with protectant.
I did not see where you are taking your air supply from, but if you didn't have one, an air station manifold with more than one outlet on the compressor discharge would allow more than one person to work at a time. The use of an inline water separator and air oiler will prolong the life of your air tools. Please don't be tempted to use the tank water drain as air source. I used a needle gun when I worked in the oil refinery. Flapper disks are useful, but be careful using powered wire brushes - a face shield and thick clothing are rquired because of all the wire bristles being released. Now please cut me some slack if I'm stating the obvious, sorry. I'm looking forward to the next video. It's the end of October - not much time left for painting outdoors. Thanks for the videos, Brian and Graham.
having worked on ships for many years the correct order is needle gun, rust convertor, two part epoxy primer, then color coat. you willn't have to sand if your paint is thick.
I have a Harbor Junk scaler. It is OK, But not of the quality of what you have. But it is better than no NS. Be sure to get a few sets of replacement needles.
Great Video. I learn something every time. Never seen a needle scaler before. It looks like it would take forever to get all the pain off though. How about sandblasting it or something like that. Once you get the paint removed, you need to paint it pretty soon or it will rust. I ordered one of your coffee mugs last week.
Blasting it with Armex large grit baking soda would be the best as once the grains shatter all that's left is baking soda powder like flour. Water dissolves it so no mess. Downside is $$$ so I'd go at with say 5" air sander with 24 grit discs. Big flat areas use a 9" sander with 24 grit and build up some muscles! Heck if I were closer I'd help you! Oh needlescaler..ugh.
We called it a needle gun and we had it on the sub I was on and we used it when we were doing painting repairs. Great for breaking up rust bubbles. Have you considered sandblasting?
Hey you made me laugh. The second you pulled out the needle gun/scaler, I’m like, yup….I know what that is. Then you mentioned the Navy! I was impressed you knew!
It's been a long time since I bought one but the Harbor Freight needle guns used to be crap. We needed one to finish a job (maybe 25 square feet) and from unboxing to uncontrolled disassembly in my hand was less than a square foot in. Ended up borrowing a IR from the garbage collection company garage. It doesn't look like they even sell the one I bought anymore, so your mileage may vary.
someone mentioned already, but a steel pole barn is a necessity to keep that loco healthy during the winter. also you might want to wear a respirator, theres lead paint on that loco for sure.
I was going to mention lead based paint as well. Also I hope they're going to spray something on it for rust abatement or prevention or else that steel will start to rust so fast you can see it after all that paint comes off. Wouldn't be a good base to put a coat of paint on without that step.
Brian, after Needle scaling 2 Alco RS-18's on the Adirondack Scenic, your engine would be a piece of cake 🎂. 2 days ready to be painted 😀.
Got a color scheme for it?
Richard Bause
I would suggest wearing a good respirator as there is probably lead in that old paint. Even if there is no lead it would be a good idea. You can buy a test kit to check for lead.
I agree with the respirator, they kick up a lot of rusty, dust, etc. Not something you want to inhale.
The infamous’ Needle Gun’ . Used many times in the Engine Room of the USS Hewitt DD 966. Don’t miss it but respect you guys for getting that Locomotive. “ Squared Away “ . Great Videos guys, don’t stop 🇺🇸
USS Peleliu and I definitely dont miss the needle gun. Lol.
I wish I had known you were doing this and I had the time to do this, I'd of volunteered to do this Skipper. I am a former Coastie and in my early days on Coast Guard Cutters out of Boot Camp when I was a lowly, Non-Rate Boot, I was on the deck force of my first boat. We called these "Needle Guns" and I "fired" more of this kind of "gun" in the service than one that shoots bullets. I actually loved to use those to get after the rust that always cropped up on a metal boat operating in a saltwater environment. The pneumatic sanders, needle guns and grinders sure do make sure and short work of rust. You may want to knock down more if it, get it down to bare, shiny metal. We used two types of primers. The first was a thin green primer we would quickly put on that we called "Green Death," putting it on as we went along, then later putting on a red colored primer called "Red Lead" prior to putting on the paint. I don't know what either of those primers were. They came from the military version of Lowe's, Menard's or Home Depot. I never found a civilian counterpart to these two part primers. I've been working the past month or so getting a long held lake house at Indian Lake for sale, and with that mission accomplished, I am about to head back to Florida for the winter. About a week or so ago when driving around Lebanon, Ohio, there was a crew spray painting one of the locomotives and an old Pullman car that run on the LM&M passenger line out of Lebanon. They were spray painting them out in the open air on a side rail. That is the way to go. I wish that we could have spray painted the decks, bulkheads and deck fixtures on our Cutters. We did it with brushes and rollers. The work would have really gone much faster and would have done a better job. I love this video. I want to see this loco all nice, pretty and shiny with a fresh coat of paint. Good day, ya'all. SEMPER PARATUS. When you are done with her, I'll be happy to say your work is BRAVO ZULU.
First time I've seen a needle scaler, very interesting, thank you
Train restoration is great. Especially when its done by people who have a dream.
more heart and pride too.
None of this brings in any revenue or gets the track in shape to handle cars, loaded or unloaded.
@@jd3497 no, but if the customers visits the railroad, a good image is important.
JD You are hard core! You can be V.P. of business development. Brian
@@eastterminalrailway5975 I agree Your time (and expertise) are best used on the railroad and mechanicals . A repaint job would best be done by those with that skill set, professional or volunteer :).
Having used the needle gun extensively myself, i recommend not only protective ear and eye items, but also the heaviest grade gloves you can get - the vibration that needle gunning gives is not only very unpleasant after using for long periods, but can also cause nerve damage.
Personally, i reckon grit blasting would be much faster and efficient - the less time exposed metal is left untreated, the more problems it will cause.
As to livery ? Take a look at JR's livery styles - best in the world, much like their railways.
i'd go for the diesel shunter DE 10, DD 51 livery myself - grey, red and white.
Wow, a Needle Gun! We used those back in the Navy on the submarine during in-port periods to repaint the topside!
A needle hammer is in my humble opinion good for removing 'heavy' dirt (concrete on steel, for example); But it does also the job on old paint. I rather prefer a wire brush on an angle grinder, because I think it is faster. There are also air-driven Angle grinders available somewhere.
Anyway, have a nice weekend!
You guys made me proud you and your son brother .
You would better served by renting a sandblaster. Much faster and more efficient. OR, look for a company that does this with a portable media blaster. They can come out to the jobsite and take care of business in no time. HOWEVER route you choose, make sure you spray the exposed metal with an etching primer to prevent it from rusting again. Also, in regards to the two engines, there are outfits that have portable steam cleaners that will again, come to your worksite and steam clean both engines and the engine bays. Just an fyi...
Yeah why not donate the dough for the sand blaster and steam cleaner services, He's using what he has because it's paid for and it still works.
I was thinking the same, a sandblaster or soda blaster would be much quicker and easier. The ETR may not have the budget for that being it is a young startup operation. But, the sooner they paint it and it looks good and professional, they can start to attract clientele easier.
Yes sandblast it
@@kittty2005 I live on my VA disability and my SS. If I had ANY extra money I would kick in. How about you springing for it?
@@gotchagoing8843 I have a single income too 24000$ a year, I'm in low income housing and the only reason I have a car is a friend bought it for me ,when I retire it will be SS period. This man already knows what he needs. My brother was a helicopter mechanic in 'nam in '66 he was on SS ,but he wasn't disabled and made more money than me, he died this past January, he suffered from PTSD but got nothing for it, but worked through it by helping those that came home without limbs and other body parts working with his church to help his brothers find peace and some normalcy, my brother died of pneumonia. I miss him. Have a wonderful evening.
Had a flashback when you pulled out the needle gun. Used it several times in the Navy.
It's more fun to watch paint FLY than to watch paint dry!
Sandblasting is the only way to go that’s going to take an eternity.
sand is terrible to electrics.
I agree, but frozen CO2 blasting would be best. "Sand" blasting works great, but the grit gets in all sorts of places you don't want it to. Ideally, if you were going to sand blast everything (Aluminum oxide abrasive) you'd want to strip the locomotive down to it's major components--- Pull the engines, generators and trucks. Strip out the electronics/electrical, windows, etc... Sand blast the superstructure down to bare. Disassemble the trucks to protect the traction motors and then start in on the structure. Anyway... Lots of time, work and money. Probably more of everything than they can or want to pay for.
@@rearspeaker6364 There is more than one type of 'media' that can be used. 'Sand blasting' is a catch phrase for media blasting, sand just being one type of media.
@@WHJeffB frozen CO2? So basically blasting with dry ice sleet? I've never heard of that before. sounds pretty neat and you're left with zero left over abrasive media once the ice sublimates.
Cool to see the ol' loco going to good owners!
I have a needle scaler that I bought from Horror Freight a while back, and have gotten a lot of good out of it blasting through really rough scale on the frame of my old truck. One thing about them is the fact that if there's any kind of weakness it will find it whether its a crack or a hole. It found a broken spring on my truck hidden under a bunch of rusty scale. I've found that holding back a bit helps rather than holding tight against the metal. Eats right through heavy stuff. Worth the money to keep around. If I do find a good brand at a pawn shop I will snap it up!
After buying all the Appropriate PPE, I wonder whether sorting out a solution for a lock-up to stop the weather getting to your precious vintage locomotive.
Thanks for all your enthusiasm & giving me my D.D.O.T for the day.
😎👍👌😷
Gotta give you respect ole man , you’re not afraid of work. You and I both know theirs a better way to do this job. This way seems like it’s going to take more time than needed.
And no disrespect I know it’s your dream and you’ve only invited us in to watch and inspire. Just I’m from a generation of making the machine work not me
I'm reminded of the guy who saw a farmer holding a hog up in a tree so he could get to the apples. The guy said to the farmer "Isn't that gonna take a long time?".
The farmer replied "I guess so, but what's time to a dern hawg?".
That needle gun is gonna take forever. I think I would go with a chemical strip, THEN hit the rust with the needle gun. Or an air powered disk or wire wheel. Respirator, eye protection and gloves, for sure. As said elsewhere, I betcha lots of that paint is lead based.
Wish I was in the area, I love the songnthose old Cummins sing. I'd surely take a turn at the needle gun.
I am a stone cutter/carver, and I do use some Harbor Freight tools (sanders/angle grinders), but I consider them to be disposable. I do not buy any warranties. I do keep the dead tools around so that I can make "frankentools" when one fails prematurely. I have had brand new HF tools fail almost immediately, and it has been my experience that you never know which component of these cheap tools will go. I include the cost of any HF tool that I will use in a job in each bid. If the tool outlives the job, it is profit, and that extra cost is not significant enough to price me out of the market, even if there was competition for what I do in my market. On the other hand, my air hammers that drive my stone chisels are bullet proof, and I have several that are more than 100 years old and going strong. Several are brands that went out of business during WWI. If I need a new piston for one of those (rare!), I just have a machine shop turn one for me. The end bushings are also replaceable. They are similar to your needle scaler, they just hit a chisel rather than a pack of needles. They also run like your needle scaler, as that they don't have any triggers, and if you want to vary the impact or frequency of the tool, you just put your thumb on the exhaust.
The things I am learning in this on-the-job training!!! Love this channel.
Thank you for sharing. You two are going to be forever with that needle scaper, have someone sandblast it for you. Much fast and I am sure you already know this. Volunteers are waiting to help.
I have that same needle gun I bought it at an estate sale and had my local industrial supply rebuild it for me
Love the new video. Thanks. Rule 108 Civil and courteous behavior is required of all employees at all times. Rule 109 Do not get paint chips in the new Coffee Mug. Great that the loco supplies the air needed to remove the old paint. Really like the nice stone ballast under the loco. You are great Americans showing us the way to get things done. Every day is more progress and the work is impressive.
Buck Thank You soooo much! You are the wind under our wings! Brian
Whenever I have to get paint off of something to weld it, I use an abrasive sponge or wire wheel on an older Hitachi grinder. Works great so far.
That Ingersoll needler can be rebuilt, and you'd have a great tool again.
Just look up the model/parts number from a GRAINGER catalog.
Or McMaster Carr catalog.
That Air Needle work's great in small use But doing that Engine will Take FOREVER.... You will be there a Year Good Luck can't wait to See it painted and the Rails open...
For sure old needle gun get it done but eats up a lot of time . Sandblast it or wet blast it be the fastest way to get it done! Be a good idea to spray or paint on some ospho rust killer! I pot on gallons of the stuff offshore on oil rigs it kills rust and the a good coat of primer and paint she be shining like a diamond! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing that Loco pulling some cars or at least some mow equipment.
Back in the 90's when I did volunteer work for a transportation museum and we were repainting boxcars and cabooses and even locomotives we used a "Bead Blaster" that used ground up corn cobs instead of sand to knock off the paint and it worked GREAT... Maybe you guys would consider a similar process on 2021 because it is quicker and leaves the carbody a lot smoother after bead blasting it with the ground up corn cobs... Just make sure that you have your protective suit and other PPE on because the corn cobs will sting...
you guys do a great job
Wow you guys have come a long way since the beginning until now with progress! I can't wait to see that locomotive painted and customers starting to use your services.
I can vouch for the quality of Harbor Freight needle scalers. They work just fine and I have used them to take off hundreds of square feet of old paint.
Great video. Best wishes on the jobs ahead.
You’re doing a great job. Making lots of headway. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍❤️
Harbor freight needle scaller works good and.under 40 bucks. I have used one for years on heavy truck repair. Alittle ATF used as air lube and cleaner,they last just fine.
Cecil That's good to know, I might try one. Brian
Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I think to make this easier, what you need is a pan big enough to hold the engine hood doors and enough exapo-rust to fill it. A lot less needle scaling you'll have to do.
I would looking into a media blaster, which would be a lot better and useful on all metals. You already have the Air for power and get better results
Amazing how quiet that engine is, even with both motors running.
Well in the UK we call them a needle gun For descaling rust not paint we use a flapper disc for paint removal or shot blast paint off and we use UPOL GREY ZINC primer for the first undercoat it's a cellulose-based paint
Nice work , I love seeing the paint layers fly
Very cool but I have to agree with the safety tips mentioned below. First thing I was taught in restoration was "you may love that engine but that engine does not love you and will hurt you every chance it gets."
Great point!
A large grinder with a 4" wire wheel will work just fine. Take off the rusty bubbly areas down to the metal and scratch up the painted areas for primer adhesion. It is almost November with temp's dropping. In a few weeks it will be too cold to spray primer and paint. More grinding and less coffee time.
Oh WoW Eastern Terminal Railway. TEAM...........WHAT a neat crew ,Dad &Son .. We are Extremely impressed with your .."We can make it work if......."Attitude.........But please protect your selfs.. wear gloves,respiratory protective dont keep your food and zCoffee near your work....We know you two do great inspiration work for all of your many EASTERN TERMINAL RAILWAY FOLLOWERS.......Question for the ETR SAFTEY DIVISION......IF YOU TWO GET HURT.....?????$$$$...What are the rest of us supposed to do.....With out our Wonderful great EASTERN TERMINAL TRANSLOAD RAILWAY PRIZED GREAT VALUE....TEAMS..?????.....(Please note this comment isn't met to be mean,rude,or hurtful..we are just concerned...because our Loving father was just like you ,He never wore gloves,or respiratory protective ,He had that "It wouldn't hurt me."....He died 20 years too early ,trying to build a Railway too...we all Miss him Dearly... You two Talk and act thick alikeThe Same.... You would have all gotten along.....Well many God Prayers...and May God over run the Eastern Terminal Transloads Facilities Railway with Customers........WoW we can Hardly wait for the Video...."Moving our first Car" We expect the shots of Car Arriving....,Grafm pouring the first "sparking Apple CEDAR " on the 2021 as she Coulpes up to it ..............
Bradford What a great post! And I take your advice with the love and respect you meant. Thank you! Brian
once painted, a cathode on one end of the body and an anode on the opposite end with a 2 or 3 volt trickle charge will prevent oxidation. Yes...it works. There is equipment that is built just for trains.
This is a labor of love 💙
Needle gun!!! Used them on every ship I was on! Memories!!!
So happy to see you guys this morning! Hope you guys are doing well! Would love to buy some merch!
Thanks for keeping us updated 🚂👍
Recommend wearing a dust mask. Some older paints have lead. Much impressed with your entrepreneurial spirit and work ethic. Wishing you and yours the best of luck. I will keep following.
Walter Thanks, it means alot! Brian
I hope you will prime the areas that you needled before they rust... Also do you have a building in which you can paint the locomotive??
Painting anything needs to be done in an environment that keeps dust and dirt away from the painted surface. I used to work at a railcar rebuilding company in Hamburg SC so I know first hand the problems with painting rail road equipment. Building a pole-barn big enough to house the loco and give you enough room for the compressors and other equipment would not be too hard. Adding some siding will help in the winter as well.
So Good Luck with your work and I will continue to follow your episodes..
Good job on the paint/rust removal! If I can suggest another method is to use a dewalt wire cup brush attached to an angel grinder. I have found it does a great job in removing paint/rust without damaging the metal.
I Love old railroad equipment and old cars. I like to restore and fix things. If it was my locomotive I would give it a top restoration top to bottom. Make it something to proud of to represent the company.
In the UK we monitor HAVS exposure (hand, arm vibration syndrome) and I would expect the needle gun is going to be a problem with use over any significant area of the loco.
When I ran streetcars, part of tieing up for the night was blowing the tank (unless there was antifreeze in the system).
The Grey paint might not be lead paint but I can almost garontee the origional paint under it is. You don't want to breath in lead paint dust. I would recommend a good respirator to avoid any issues.
Aircraft paint remover may be quicker in this application. My main concern here is rust, on some of the more trouble areas POR15 is a great rust converter/gloss black basecoat made to go over weathered metal, definitely worth considering
I bought one of those Harbor Freight needle scalers to take the rust and scale of the frames of a 30 year old pickup truck. The needle scaler cleaned that frame right up. I just painted the frame with rust killer primer after that. No need to worry about the smoothness of the finish there. :-)
Graham needs to knock off an armored truck and use the money to hire some guys to strip and paint that locomotive. I'm not trying to make the boy into a fugitive, but I don't want him to start disliking the railroad either. As legoscout says, "Train restoration is great....." I say, "Yes, especially when the prep and painting is done by someone else". Great video.
Steam crews use those needle scalers to remove scale and debris from the inside of the firebox. Very handy tools, indeed.
Sandblasting works too
its safe to say, you could get some volunteers to help you.......just make sure everyone signs a liability release. yes I know it's those dirty words, but he don't need ankle biters either.
One problem with being a railroad nut, versus a car nut you can't pull your locomotive into the your garage to get out of the weather.
Your locomotive is going to look stunningly good when you have completed repainting it.
I think so too!
Yup just ordered some :)
Awesome!!!! You need an face filter mask and eye goggles for your protection / safety when removing paint. It's one of OSHA's Work Safety Requirements.
I used one of them when i worked on the river we took off the paint on a towboat.and primered it and then painted it we worked from top of the pilot house to the waterline and it turned out good even though we were stripping 8 layers of paint to get to the bare metal
Hi folks, ever thought about axial wire brushes for the grinder? "Topfbürste"
Select one with thick, twisted wires. But first make sure to wear eye protection!!!!!
Wires will break and fly away fast.
Could work faster and creates a smooth surface without wasting substance of the locomotitive.
The needler ist still good in corners and the door bands etc.
And use rust Mort it willkill the rust and turn it into primer you two are doing a great job
Sandblasting is the best way to go. The second alternative is to use a 5 inch grinder with a heavy duty wire brush. Then use a rust neutralize solution on really bad areas. If you don’t the rust will come right back. Best wishes!
I know you like to do things yourself but can not help thinking a sandblaster would be real handy here. Enjoyed he video anyway. Safe travels
Wouldn't sand blasting the locomotive be easier than doing all that needle scaling and sanding? It would cut out the orbit sander step and speed up the paint removal wouldn't it? You could still use the locomotive air and because your abrasive is sand or say something biodegradable like crushed walnut shell it would be just as safe as the needle scaler. Either way the paint is still going on the ground unless you put a plastic cocoon around the locomotive including on the ground to catch it all. I'd choose sand blasting because I've used a needle scaler to remove heavy, thick rust scale during the restoration of a steam locomotive that had set outside all it's working life and then 30 more years with no maintenance leaving it with no paint at all. The locomotive had already been striped down leaving the boiler and framed attached to each other just sitting on the wheels and axles. We jacked it up high enough to roll the wheels and axles out then set it on blocks high enough to be able to get under it comfortably. The part of the frame behind the backhead where the cab sits, which had rusted almost completely away before removing what was left; is the area I used the needle scaler on. The frame of a steam locomotive as you know or can imagine is very thick and this one had an ⅛" of rust scale that looked like scale you'd see inside the boiler but thicker, built up on it in this area and others. Taking all day to do this area proved it would take too long to needle scale the entire locomotive so we chose to sand blast it instead. We were in the roundhouse which has a concrete floor and five bays set up for restoration projects with two being a machine shop. We made a wood frame around the locomotive and covered it with plastic to control the dust and mess best as possible. It was only an 0-6-0 so we got the sand blasting done in a 10 hour day. Set up and prep work was done the day before and clean up the day after. Then we had to wipe the locomotive down with mineral spirits to get the dust and oils off to start the painting process. We used a rust inhibitor on it before the primer. It was milky looking in the container and as it was applied but dried clear and shinny like polyurethane and made the remaining rust under it look a dark almost black color. I can't remember the name of this stuff but it was some good stuff I thought. Then two coats of primer, two coats of black, and a clear coat. We did the same process with the axles and wheels and this locomotive was on it's way to nice cosmetic restoration as a static display in the backshop, when the restoration of the backshop itself was finished. After this work I helped do that's as far as the project went and it was parked back outside in the yard and that's where it's been since. That was in summer 2002. The backshop has been mostly restored and is beginning to be filled with displays but there's no mention of the little 0-6-0 Bonsal steam locomotive having its cosmetic restoration finished any time soon. Bonsal is the name of the company that owned the locomotive and a huge sand pit where it worked all its life hauling car loads of sand out of the pit to the processing building day and night for many years. That's why we call it the Bonsal locomotive. Not sure of its number or if it had one. The southwestern NC coastal plain almost in SC, just east of Lilesville NC is where this company is located, where the locomotive came from, and is still in operation to this day far as I know although I'm not sure the company name is still W.R.Bonsal. Wow! I guess I like to tell rambling stories about something that is only slightly related to the topic of a video. I'm still posting this because it took so much time to type but I didn't realize until the end how long it was. What was the video about again? 😅🤦♂️🤷♂️ Oh and by the way I love the content of your channel and the videos are great! They're good enough to bring back memories I have from almost 20 years ago. Stay well. -Wil 👍
That's what my boss use to do on 40 yard containers in our storage yard that got to rusty looking, took a while but it brought them back to like knew once he was done sandblasting and re-stenciling the company logo on it.
Soda blasting would leave the surface paint ready - that needle machine looks good for a battle ship, but you're on dry land
Do not quote me because i have not done any major Corrosion Control efforts since 2006 (when i left NAS Point Mugu to go to the Eisenhower) but Abrasive Sand Blasting is supposed to be in doors with excellent ventilation systems. Outdoors? Away from prying eyes (like Ohio OSHA)... I would still restrict myself to hand tools for costs more than anything else. That being said, i guess needle gunning would be the most efficient means (again, like he said, based on the material being worked on, as well as thickness plus IDK if they make DryHoner units in the civilian sector like the small portable units we had on ship for aircraft use). But if it was me, i would have just either gunned or power sanded the corroded spots and repainted over the non-damaged paint. Unless you really NEED it to look Pretty, i would just treat the CC spots and be done. To remove paint from metal that isn't corroded seems a waste of time (especially for a small barely-for-profit gig that ETR hopes to be) because repainting the whole unit to look or appear 'new' would require major rework effort, to the point of being hella fucking expensive. I could get away with things like that in the Navy but probably not in the civilian sector....
@@tehpw7574 The look of equipment says a lot to a potential customer no matter what business you're in. Patching up all the holes, cleaning out and redoing the cab, and putting a nice shiney new paint job over the entire locomotive implys we take care of our equipment and we'll take care of yours. So I'd say that putting a new expensive paint job on the locomotive and polishing it to a blinding shine would be a good impression on a potential customer. Keeping it polished and waxed continues to say to the customer, your freight cars are in good hands that will take care of them and treat them like we do our own equipment. 👍
I'd suggest Soda Blasting over Sand Blasting.
Needle scaler is very interesting. Would have been my last choice of all the available methods.
I was a merchant seaman for 30 yrs and we used needle guns but now they have a laser gun to is so much easier and quicker. Also use to use sand blasters but that makes a mess.
May I suggest using a wire brush in an L Head Grinder. It will remove the paint down to the metal and will leave the metal shiny and un-pitted all in one step. It will be much faster than the needle scaler, too.
As there's about a 100% chance that's lead paint, I'm thinking you probably want to wear a good respirator too...
And goggles..
Good safety minute
I had that same thought.
I was thinking lead paint also. You need to have a plan to safely dispose of what you take off. You may end up hiring someone to strip and dispose of the paint. You know, guys dressed in bunny suits. It would be lots of $$ but maybe cheaper than an EPA-OSHA fine (and they'd still force you to hire those people).
I'd not want lead paint chips/dust/residue getting on my skin! Wear long sleeve denim/etc and good gloves too. And all the other suggestions here. I know you're just demo'ing for us, but please protect yourselves AND the ground(water) too.
We called it a air chipper, used it to knock off flux from stick welding old locos, use gloves & a face shield plus like everyone is telling you a respirator or at least good masks, lot of work but boy will it pay off!
Watching you with the needle gun took me back to my days aboard ship. Your locomotive is a lot smaller than the ship was so it shouldn't take too long.
Mark Thanks for your service! Mk1
@@eastterminalrailway5975 You're welcome.
Good evening from SE Louisiana 23 Oct 21.
Pin scaler for very heavy rust, Wire air brush to knock off surface rust and heavy flaking paint, Sand blast with heavy to finer grain. Prime as you go to prevent surface from rusting.... Just a lot faster. In some cases a gas welding torch can knock of penetrated rust too! ..... Then again a toothbrush and tube of Colgate seems interesting!
yea,I would look into one of those mobile dustless blasting people. They could have the entire unit blasted inside and out in a day and ready for paint. Contact some rail museums in the area and see if they have anyone they use. Might find someone willing to do it for a discount being you are restoring a vintage locomotive like this.I am guessing $2000-3000 for the exterior to pay full price to have it totally stripped.
I would prefer sandblasting myself. My choice in needle scalers is the Von Arx brand.
Second (or tenth by now) on getting a media blaster out there, and using a good primer right away. It may be worth considering something like Coroseal as a pre-primer or POR15, especially for the underside. Maybe an auto body guy would be able to give some relevant advice on the proper technique and products, I'm sure we have a few in the comments here.
Needle Gun...pure old school Navy. If I had a nickel for every minute of going to sleep on a ship listening to sailors at work with needle guns, I would be well off indeed. Like the plan for the thick metal. quite right about the thinner sheet metal on the inside of the cab....mgb
I saw the needle scaler when I worked for a Toyota back in 2011/12 during the Tundra frame rot recall. They would use those to remove the rust so the technician could determine if it required a new frame or just cleaned and coated with protectant.
I know people that got a better truck out of that! Brian
I did not see where you are taking your air supply from, but if you didn't have one, an air station manifold with more than one outlet on the compressor discharge would allow more than one person to work at a time. The use of an inline water separator and air oiler will prolong the life of your air tools. Please don't be tempted to use the tank water drain as air source. I used a needle gun when I worked in the oil refinery. Flapper disks are useful, but be careful using powered wire brushes - a face shield and thick clothing are rquired because of all the wire bristles being released. Now please cut me some slack if I'm stating the obvious, sorry. I'm looking forward to the next video. It's the end of October - not much time left for painting outdoors. Thanks for the videos, Brian and Graham.
Soda blasting works great!
Are you going to show us any design ideas for the 2021, or just have an unveiling and surprise us when its all painted? Inquiring minds want to know.
having worked on ships for many years the correct order is needle gun, rust convertor, two part epoxy primer, then color coat. you willn't have to sand if your paint is thick.
I have a Harbor Junk scaler. It is OK, But not of the quality of what you have. But it is better than no NS. Be sure to get a few sets of replacement needles.
Great Video. I learn something every time. Never seen a needle scaler before. It looks like it would take forever to get all the pain off though. How about sandblasting it or something like that. Once you get the paint removed, you need to paint it pretty soon or it will rust.
I ordered one of your coffee mugs last week.
It's called a needle gun. It is also used to knock flux off of welds in the ship building industry.
Blasting it with Armex large grit baking soda would be the best as once the grains shatter all that's left is baking soda powder like flour. Water dissolves it so no mess. Downside is $$$ so I'd go at with say 5" air sander with 24 grit discs. Big flat areas use a 9" sander with 24 grit and build up some muscles! Heck if I were closer I'd help you! Oh needlescaler..ugh.
The needle gun bring back nightmare's from the Navy, oh the drama of painting the ship
We called it a needle gun and we had it on the sub I was on and we used it when we were doing painting repairs. Great for breaking up rust bubbles. Have you considered sandblasting?
nice
Yes, Safety Glasses and Gloves, preferably Leather.
Hey you made me laugh. The second you pulled out the needle gun/scaler, I’m like, yup….I know what that is. Then you mentioned the Navy! I was impressed you knew!
Same, we are "Birds of a feather"! Mk1
Sand blasting it would be cool. I wonder how effective aircraft stripper would be.
It's been a long time since I bought one but the Harbor Freight needle guns used to be crap. We needed one to finish a job (maybe 25 square feet) and from unboxing to uncontrolled disassembly in my hand was less than a square foot in. Ended up borrowing a IR from the garbage collection company garage. It doesn't look like they even sell the one I bought anymore, so your mileage may vary.
RT You know what I was talking about by experience, Brian