Eric, I'll give you a tip. Heat shrink can be stretched too. I use either a pair of needle nose pliers or forceps to stretch the heat shrink to fit over the terminal end. Slip into place, heat it and it will shrink right back to a nice tight fit.
I love these fairly common component failures that are really a bad ground. Everyone wants to blame the component first but in reality a lot of times it's the power source or a bad ground. I love that mini launch. Wish I could afford it because that would be perfect for a DIYer since it's so small but gives you bi directional controls. Great video.
You know your stuff Eric you have so much experience with vehicles in all fields especially dionostics and you don’t skimp on the tools you provide an excellent service to your community good man ,old jimmy West Australian I do enjoy your humour regards to you family
Eric, I have learned so much watching your videos over the last couple of years. I agree with your statement at the end of your last video: "If you don't like how I do things, don't watch my videos". I wouldn't even respond to the know-it-all commenters: it's not an eylet, it's a "ring terminal", you need to get larger sized heat shrink, you need to use rosin paste or liquid flux, you need to use a ratcheting wrench (which you did when you tightened the ground terminal btw), don't quench your solder...etc. That Jeep will be in the scrap heap long before your repair fails. Your honest, you fix things the right way and you don't fire the parts cannon. Thanks for everything you do.
2010 JKU horn suddenly stopped working one day. Fuses were good...watched your video and made the same repair and it worked immediately. Found lots of corrosion inside the coating. Thanks for the video.
Just had my first summer cold and whoa , What a nasty cold . I remember your video when you were dealing with a summer cold and now I know how bad you felt . nice simple video and I loved the little tool x431.
A little late here, but just found and watched this. I hate the TIPM idea. Permanately mounting relays into a circuit board is a bad idea, especially for those on high use circuits, like the cooling fans. I'm glad that Chrysler abandoned that concept. Eric, you may already know this by now, Chrysler has schematics/illustrations in the wiring diagram section that show where every connector, splice, and ground are located. Very useful for when you're looking for things and don't want to tear the vehicle apart to find them. It's saved me countless times.
Great video, I was just chasing that G102 ground for the same problem with a RH turn signal not flashing brightly. Quite a coincidence it was the same day you published this! Well done, articulate, methodical, clear diagnostic approach. You are a true professional.
Thank you very much for this video. This was exactly my problem. I don’t know that I would have ever found thought to check that particular ground stud.
Nice diag. Looks like a nice little scan tool and great price! My buddy from FL calls me all the time to help him diagnose his car and he needs a reasonably priced scan tool with bi-directional control...looks pretty good. The compact scan module attachment every scan tool should have. I've sent my Snap-On down the road before.
This saved me hundreds of dollars on my 2010 jeep wrangler spent $44 on parts found the bad grounds and replaced.. this ground also controls side markers and horn .. and other stuff.. thanks.
You have all the cool toys! Seriously though, they are a real time saver. Just out of most of the little guys price range. Oh well at least we can dream about them! Lol
That tick tocking @3:15 is the sound of the time bomb Jeep on the way to the scrap heap! lol Oh and i have those wire strippers you just need to adjust the thumb wheel on the slide for a better bite.
I really want to Thank you for The Video. I just purchased a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited and My Horn wasn't blowing either. Guess what I had The Same exact problem. The Grounds. I took a Jumper and went to ground and sure enough it worked. At first I said I will just run a wire to ground and I said Nope I'm going to Fix it right. I ended up extending the little wires with Butt splicing and Heat Shrink. I separated and soldered the little wires together and then installed ring terminal and tied to Ground. I really think also they have the wires stretched so tight that when the vehicle moves up All over the place The Wires Break. I'm a retired Electrician at a Nuclear Power Plant it May be a Good Thing looks like I will be fixing a lot of Grounds. Thanks Again Sir
Could have just hooked that noisy power probe up to the positive wire shoved it under the hood and shipped it with a new sounding horn. Thanks for showing the Diag Gun. I am going to consider it. I have been looking at all the 431 stuff and saving my money for a better scan tool, I think that fits the bill and will save me a few hundred. I was looking at Autel, but Keith convinced me Launch was the way to go.
Good find! I had to chase a problem with the horn on my 06 mustang so it would pass inspection. Fuses good, relays good. Horn was good when I gave it power. Tested the horn switch in the steering wheel and checked the clock spring all good connections. Diagram showed where the horn button connected to the bcm. checked there and bingo. couple large connectors. got those popped off and sure enough inside this where it connected to the bcm some of the bcms pins had the crustys and one was no longer existant. sure enough that one was my horn. Odd for being in that sealed connection. Ended up getting another bcm used on ebay and now my horns works. Later on I think I may have found why it got the crustys... Friend was riding with me one day while it was pouring rain. Next thing he starts saying his feet are getting wet lol. Found the drain under the wipe cowl was plugged. Filled the hvac box full of water which was running down on you guessed it, the bcm directly below.
if it's fairly soft rubbery heat-shrink, cut the length you need, put it on a pair of needle nose pliers and "pull them open" rotate the heat shrink and repeat, it will stretch out some and likely fit and should still shrink back down without issues :)
Autel is giving Snap-On a run for the money. That's a price that approaches the DIY'er and I see prices coming down or the capabilities improve in their line up of other tools as well. Nice explanation of the process too. I like "simple, Keith said I was a master at "simple". That still cracks me up.
Yes, Autel may be my next. I believe Autel hardware have a battery that can't be replaced, which sets a limit of how long it will last. New lithium batteries last a lot longer than previous iterations, but it is a little irritating. Also most of these devices have optional annual updates that greatly increase the price, especially for the DIY market where we hope for longer shelf life. The device shown is the Launch, which is pretty cool but which may be harder to read and use. All of these seem great out of the box but the real test comes in a few years. I haven't found a scanner that I don't love to hate.
spelunkerd I just got an Autel MS 906BT. I think it may be right up your alley if you like to tinker on cars. Seems to be just like my MS908 just half the price and a tad smaller.
Good t-shooting. One thought- using flux helps the solder flow better. We used it extensively in electronic assemblies at my employer before I retired.
Another great SMA video. Are you planning to do a review on that X431 scanner? Looks like a pretty capable unit for the price, and the cheapest one I have seen with bidirectional controls. Would love to see a video putting it through its paces, showing the datastream, graphing capabilities, etc.
Eric you should take a look at the knipex or weicon no5 wire strippers I use both and they are great for tight spaces like this. Another great vid .Thanks Joe
Good videos Eric have been following you for a while now. you said at the end all you really needed was a test light and a buddy couldn't you have used a test light and the panic button on the key fob most Chrysler products are equipped with?
Ah the TIPM, or as Chrysler calls it, "The Money Maker". This is one reason I will never own a Chrysler or any other vehicle that makes it so you have to spend $1000 or more just to fix a simple relay. It's fortunate for the customer this wasn't the case. Good diagnosis and repair.
I have the original Diagun. Not terribly happy with it. Had lots of bugs. Looks like they've made some improvements. Curious to see the longer term review.
I haven't fixed a horn yet on a modern vehicle. This was a great eye opener for me. Comm lines for a friggin horn! What is the world coming to? Contact, wire, relay, horn - what was wrong with that?!? Was too simple and reliable, I guess. They just have to throw a computer into the mix. It's a wonder you didn't have to reprogram the horn after fixing the ground path ...😖 I better not give them any ideas!!! THANK YOU Eric for your help in the last comments section go around. You were right about the ABS module on that Sierra taking care of the no-comm at the FSCM! She's fixed! I just need to have someone program the stupid module - another GM brainstorm designed to vacuum every last cent out of your wallet. Money light and brake light are off, but ABS light is still on for "configuration error" - guess that means programming. I used Stud 2, meant for the trailer brake power (used a 40A J-case), to run power down to the ABS motor (in place of the ABS 1 circuit, which was open). I spent way too much time digging around the harness trying to find the open to no avail. And of course 2 of those 4mm bolts holding the module on, snapped off inside the ABS unit. Lesson learned there - next time I'll be replacing the ENTIRE assembly! Now I'm off to do multiple carb cleans. Got a pair of 70's Evinrude and Mercury outboard motors, a Yamaha PW80, and a Kawasaki Brute Force ... plus about 18 push mowers, lol. I need a break after troubleshooting that Sierra! 😁
Carb = SIMPLICITY. 😁 Love working on the older stuff - I just go through the motions, and the stuff runs, every time. Wish that were the case with me and modern stuff! Good to know about the programming. Thanks again for all your insight!! I thought I was going to be able to stop by there Saturday, but the deal fell through - someone was going to pay me $3 -LARGE (!!!) to trailer a brand new Chevy 2500 ice cream truck from KY back here to MA. Was a little over my towing capacity, but for that money, I'd just do the speed limit. At first he was going to fly me there, until he saw that would've cost him another grand. Figures - I needed that dough!! One of these days I'll get out there and bring you some liquid gifts. 😊
Jeepers! Way to go Chrysler! Over complicated horn operation design out weighed by skimping on the fundamentals of corrosion resistance of the wiring harness.
Found that end operating wire stripper that has no grooves just a pull blade and has adjustable tension is much easier to use especially under the dash. I never use that one you are using any more.I have two of them. They are just too cumbersome. Had no trouble pulling strands off and virtually instant with no set up so a great time saver.
hey I herd josh taking a wheel off in the background! but that launch is nice and not a crazy price I guess a pick tug test in that ground terminal would work
I am having a problem with the horn not working on my 2012 Jeep Liberty. You covered this issue pretty well in this video but most of us don't have all of the fancy equipment. One of the first things I did which you didn't suggest in the video is to hit the lock button on your key fob. I did that on mine and the horn honked telling me immediately that I didn't have a blown fuse, bad relay, or bad ground. I haven't torn into the steering wheel yet to check the button or clock spring but I am guessing it is one of them.
In the old days we would have just spliced a new wire to the old ground wire and ran it to a new ground position. I found bad grounds on everything from Datsuns to Mercedes Benzs. In my day Chrysler was not particularly noted for bad grounds, Ford was.
Mid 90's Buicks had the horn contacts in the air bag assembly. They close circuit when the foam deteriates and burns out the relays and horn coils. Cost me $1000 to get the horn to blow.
just jam an extendable pole/window washer from seat headrest to steering wheel horn button. worst that will happen is, you find the issue and it honks until you stop it. perhaps while cleaning your shorts a bit :))
hi, i found your video because you know how it goes. issues. so my fuses are good but with i check continuity it doesnt beep. and its not just my horns is a few different ones but, like i the fuses are good. any ideas?
*Launch X431 DIAGUN IV Bi-directional Automotive Diagnostic Tool: amzn.to/2KiCvkN
*Power Probe IV w/Case: amzn.to/2tpKHpN
South Main Auto Repair u do a nice job I do the same
That's a great price. I was thinking about getting the Autel MaxiDas DS808 but I think I changed my mind.
Eric, how do you like this scanner? i am in the market for one. Review?
South Main Automobile Repair
I would like to know how the scanner is holding up and if you like it
🏰🏯♏
Eric, I'll give you a tip. Heat shrink can be stretched too. I use either a pair of needle nose pliers or forceps to stretch the heat shrink to fit over the terminal end. Slip into place, heat it and it will shrink right back to a nice tight fit.
Eric O at it again! Another great diagnostic video! And this guy was up earlllly! Thanks Eric!
I love these fairly common component failures that are really a bad ground. Everyone wants to blame the component first but in reality a lot of times it's the power source or a bad ground. I love that mini launch. Wish I could afford it because that would be perfect for a DIYer since it's so small but gives you bi directional controls. Great video.
You're very well 'grounded' in diagnosing these problems sir. Thanks Dr. O!
You know your stuff Eric you have so much experience with vehicles in all fields especially dionostics and you don’t skimp on the tools you provide an excellent service to your community good man ,old jimmy West Australian I do enjoy your humour regards to you family
Eric o, does it again...even the simple repairs are entertaining ,eric o is a big kid with a new toy.lol.i want one..lol
Eric, I have learned so much watching your videos over the last couple of years. I agree with your statement at the end of your last video: "If you don't like how I do things, don't watch my videos". I wouldn't even respond to the know-it-all commenters: it's not an eylet, it's a "ring terminal", you need to get larger sized heat shrink, you need to use rosin paste or liquid flux, you need to use a ratcheting wrench (which you did when you tightened the ground terminal btw), don't quench your solder...etc. That Jeep will be in the scrap heap long before your repair fails. Your honest, you fix things the right way and you don't fire the parts cannon. Thanks for everything you do.
Bah, it don't get to me. Everyone has an opinion :)
Great job Eric O , cant beat getting the horn 😂
2010 JKU horn suddenly stopped working one day. Fuses were good...watched your video and made the same repair and it worked immediately. Found lots of corrosion inside the coating. Thanks for the video.
Woohoo! New SMA video!
Nice job, as always, Eric!
Another great job, as always!
Just had my first summer cold and whoa , What a nasty cold . I remember your video when you were dealing with a summer cold and now I know how bad you felt . nice simple video and I loved the little tool x431.
I love all your cool toys!
I always like what you do keep it up.
Hi Eric another great video as usual.Keep them coming and a big shout out from Australia.
Nice to see such good mechanic with your diagnostic skills! Thanks!
Thanks for that awesome information on the jeep 2008 horn not working help me out a lot
Nice job, another happy customer.
Thanks a ton for this. This fixed my Dad's horn issue. Subbed!
Man, Eric you have all the nice tools.
A little late here, but just found and watched this. I hate the TIPM idea. Permanately mounting relays into a circuit board is a bad idea, especially for those on high use circuits, like the cooling fans. I'm glad that Chrysler abandoned that concept. Eric, you may already know this by now, Chrysler has schematics/illustrations in the wiring diagram section that show where every connector, splice, and ground are located. Very useful for when you're looking for things and don't want to tear the vehicle apart to find them. It's saved me countless times.
This fixed it for me, took me 30 minutes. Thanks !
been gone for awile.i'm back,thx mr o ,great video.
Fancy! Love a fix without needing parts :)
Great video, I was just chasing that G102 ground for the same problem with a RH turn signal not flashing brightly. Quite a coincidence it was the same day you published this! Well done, articulate, methodical, clear diagnostic approach. You are a true professional.
I saw on the diagram that the lights go there also!
@@SouthMainAuto Great tip on the switch being inoperative while in the bi-directional control. That could be a "Hair-Puller-Outer"!
another good video on grounds! thanks, Fiat/ Chrysler for job security for mechanics!
great video. That is a awesome little scan tool
Another great video Eric O.
man those Chrysler's really keep you busy. thank you FCA for all cars that keeps Eric o's shop so busy.
Amen!
Thank You to GM as well.
Aaron yeah they keep the shops going too. that's why they call them garbage motors
Aaron or general maintainanc.
Always fun to watch, Eric...one thing though, seeing you flick that razor knife reminded me how much I missed ole Mr. Brake Cleaner. :>) Thanks, Man!!
Another cool video with an awesome new toy
Like your tool.Fantastic find
Nice job Eric
Great video! This fixed my horn! And my hyper-flash turn signal! Thanks!!!
Thank you very much for this video. This was exactly my problem. I don’t know that I would have ever found thought to check that particular ground stud.
SWEEEET VID 🚹, THANK YOU MR. O
Please keep ppl save by teaching us how solve even this small jobs thank you very much for ur help and share ur knowledge 👌🏻👍🏻
Nice diagnostic tool , all the years in HVAC the right tool for the job. Like to see that in the future.
Feels good to be here early :)
Nice video with a cool tool 👍🏻
Great video. Thanks!
Nice diag. Looks like a nice little scan tool and great price! My buddy from FL calls me all the time to help him diagnose his car and he needs a reasonably priced scan tool with bi-directional control...looks pretty good. The compact scan module attachment every scan tool should have. I've sent my Snap-On down the road before.
Oh yeah I have sent a few of mine for rides!
This saved me hundreds of dollars on my 2010 jeep wrangler spent $44 on parts found the bad grounds and replaced.. this ground also controls side markers and horn .. and other stuff.. thanks.
Thanks for the video.
You have all the cool toys! Seriously though, they are a real time saver. Just out of most of the little guys price range. Oh well at least we can dream about them! Lol
Very helpful video.
Good job as always buddy I would have thought the bracket the horn was mounted on would have been the ground but I guess that's old school
Thank you for yet another fine example as to why old cars are better than new cars.
Another nice video, and me stuck with a power probe III.
Great job my friend
That tick tocking @3:15 is the sound of the time bomb Jeep on the way to the scrap heap! lol Oh and i have those wire strippers you just need to adjust the thumb wheel on the slide for a better bite.
I really want to Thank you for The Video. I just purchased a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited and My Horn wasn't blowing either. Guess what I had The Same exact problem. The Grounds. I took a Jumper and went to ground and sure enough it worked. At first I said I will just run a wire to ground and I said Nope I'm going to Fix it right. I ended up extending the little wires with Butt splicing and Heat Shrink. I separated and soldered the little wires together and then installed ring terminal and tied to Ground. I really think also they have the wires stretched so tight that when the vehicle moves up All over the place The Wires Break. I'm a retired Electrician at a Nuclear Power Plant it May be a Good Thing looks like I will be fixing a lot of Grounds. Thanks Again Sir
G102 = Gone.. good one Dr. O
Chrysler needs to add a "Check and clean chassis grounds" to the service schedules for their vehicles.
Reminds me of that red neon you had to work on all the grounds were in one spot and where the grounds were connected was rotted
Could have just hooked that noisy power probe up to the positive wire shoved it under the hood and shipped it with a new sounding horn. Thanks for showing the Diag Gun. I am going to consider it. I have been looking at all the 431 stuff and saving my money for a better scan tool, I think that fits the bill and will save me a few hundred. I was looking at Autel, but Keith convinced me Launch was the way to go.
Sm Ms - It's apparent that you do not know!
Good find! I had to chase a problem with the horn on my 06 mustang so it would pass inspection. Fuses good, relays good. Horn was good when I gave it power. Tested the horn switch in the steering wheel and checked the clock spring all good connections. Diagram showed where the horn button connected to the bcm. checked there and bingo. couple large connectors. got those popped off and sure enough inside this where it connected to the bcm some of the bcms pins had the crustys and one was no longer existant. sure enough that one was my horn. Odd for being in that sealed connection. Ended up getting another bcm used on ebay and now my horns works. Later on I think I may have found why it got the crustys... Friend was riding with me one day while it was pouring rain. Next thing he starts saying his feet are getting wet lol. Found the drain under the wipe cowl was plugged. Filled the hvac box full of water which was running down on you guessed it, the bcm directly below.
if it's fairly soft rubbery heat-shrink, cut the length you need, put it on a pair of needle nose pliers and "pull them open" rotate the heat shrink and repeat, it will stretch out some and likely fit and should still shrink back down without issues :)
Hey Eric Good Video
Autel is giving Snap-On a run for the money. That's a price that approaches the DIY'er and I see prices coming down or the capabilities improve in their line up of other tools as well. Nice explanation of the process too. I like "simple, Keith said I was a master at "simple". That still cracks me up.
wyattoneable launch?
Yes, Autel may be my next. I believe Autel hardware have a battery that can't be replaced, which sets a limit of how long it will last. New lithium batteries last a lot longer than previous iterations, but it is a little irritating. Also most of these devices have optional annual updates that greatly increase the price, especially for the DIY market where we hope for longer shelf life. The device shown is the Launch, which is pretty cool but which may be harder to read and use. All of these seem great out of the box but the real test comes in a few years. I haven't found a scanner that I don't love to hate.
spelunkerd I just got an Autel MS 906BT. I think it may be right up your alley if you like to tinker on cars. Seems to be just like my MS908 just half the price and a tad smaller.
wyattoneable so autel top line 3k is wourth getting?
Good t-shooting. One thought- using flux helps the solder flow better. We used it extensively in electronic assemblies at my employer before I retired.
Just had to do the same exact repair, thank you so much!
Another great SMA video.
Are you planning to do a review on that X431 scanner? Looks like a pretty capable unit for the price, and the cheapest one I have seen with bidirectional controls. Would love to see a video putting it through its paces, showing the datastream, graphing capabilities, etc.
Eric you should take a look at the knipex or weicon no5 wire strippers I use both and they are great for tight spaces like this. Another great vid .Thanks Joe
Good videos Eric have been following you for a while now. you said at the end all you really needed was a test light and a buddy couldn't you have used a test light and the panic button on the key fob most Chrysler products are equipped with?
There ya go! That is thinking outside the box, I totally forgot about the panic button!!
And yet another great video from the spicy Italian 😂
Will be checking that ground today. Same issues hopefully the same fix. 🤞
Yikes!! Great video - never new blowing your horn could be so complicated!!
Right tool for the right job👍🏻
Those Vampire pliers are great i'm glad I bought some.
Yeah buddy, I love these things!
Ah the TIPM, or as Chrysler calls it, "The Money Maker". This is one reason I will never own a Chrysler or any other vehicle that makes it so you have to spend $1000 or more just to fix a simple relay. It's fortunate for the customer this wasn't the case. Good diagnosis and repair.
LMAO, You must have shit yourself when you pressed the horn and "Nothing". That was priceless buddy.
Nahhh, knew it was something to do with software, no biggy :)
Sure ya did. i believe ya.
thanks for the good tips. my 2007 k horn has stoped working. cheers!
Parts changer would have had fun with that one!
I have the original Diagun. Not terribly happy with it. Had lots of bugs. Looks like they've made some improvements. Curious to see the longer term review.
Would love to see you do a review on Launch seems a great tool in a good price bracket. Great video as normal.
That was very interesting
I haven't fixed a horn yet on a modern vehicle. This was a great eye opener for me. Comm lines for a friggin horn! What is the world coming to? Contact, wire, relay, horn - what was wrong with that?!? Was too simple and reliable, I guess. They just have to throw a computer into the mix. It's a wonder you didn't have to reprogram the horn after fixing the ground path ...😖 I better not give them any ideas!!!
THANK YOU Eric for your help in the last comments section go around. You were right about the ABS module on that Sierra taking care of the no-comm at the FSCM! She's fixed! I just need to have someone program the stupid module - another GM brainstorm designed to vacuum every last cent out of your wallet. Money light and brake light are off, but ABS light is still on for "configuration error" - guess that means programming. I used Stud 2, meant for the trailer brake power (used a 40A J-case), to run power down to the ABS motor (in place of the ABS 1 circuit, which was open). I spent way too much time digging around the harness trying to find the open to no avail. And of course 2 of those 4mm bolts holding the module on, snapped off inside the ABS unit. Lesson learned there - next time I'll be replacing the ENTIRE assembly!
Now I'm off to do multiple carb cleans. Got a pair of 70's Evinrude and Mercury outboard motors, a Yamaha PW80, and a Kawasaki Brute Force ... plus about 18 push mowers, lol. I need a break after troubleshooting that Sierra! 😁
Cool man glad to hear that! Hope they get it programmed for you. They are a quick programming on those. What is a carb!? Haha ;)
Carb = SIMPLICITY. 😁 Love working on the older stuff - I just go through the motions, and the stuff runs, every time. Wish that were the case with me and modern stuff!
Good to know about the programming. Thanks again for all your insight!!
I thought I was going to be able to stop by there Saturday, but the deal fell through - someone was going to pay me $3 -LARGE (!!!) to trailer a brand new Chevy 2500 ice cream truck from KY back here to MA. Was a little over my towing capacity, but for that money, I'd just do the speed limit. At first he was going to fly me there, until he saw that would've cost him another grand. Figures - I needed that dough!! One of these days I'll get out there and bring you some liquid gifts. 😊
My MGA has a line from the negative terminal through a button on the dash to the horn and to ground. Works flawlessly.
good job
Jeepers! Way to go Chrysler! Over complicated horn operation design out weighed by skimping on the fundamentals of corrosion resistance of the wiring harness.
Found that end operating wire stripper that has no grooves just a pull blade and has adjustable tension is much easier to use especially under the dash. I never use that one you are using any more.I have two of them. They are just too cumbersome. Had no trouble pulling strands off and virtually instant with no set up so a great time saver.
The Jeep will toot again thanks to Dr.O. Another assume video Dr.O until next time PEACE.
'Oooh, what do we have here? -I see the crusties.' -Eric O. 2018
There's another SMA shirt right there. :D
Interesting looking wire stripper tool.
That portable phone size scanner tool is neet pretty cool
The tools was pretty awesome
hey I herd josh taking a wheel off in the background! but that launch is nice and not a crazy price I guess a pick tug test in that ground terminal would work
I am having a problem with the horn not working on my 2012 Jeep Liberty. You covered this issue pretty well in this video but most of us don't have all of the fancy equipment. One of the first things I did which you didn't suggest in the video is to hit the lock button on your key fob. I did that on mine and the horn honked telling me immediately that I didn't have a blown fuse, bad relay, or bad ground. I haven't torn into the steering wheel yet to check the button or clock spring but I am guessing it is one of them.
In the old days we would have just spliced a new wire to the old ground wire and ran it to a new ground position. I found bad grounds on everything from Datsuns to Mercedes Benzs. In my day Chrysler was not particularly noted for bad grounds, Ford was.
Seems around here the Chrysler products are what haunt us
Different place and different times. Things change. :D
i can't believe how many ground issues you end up having.
electrical diag is my favorite, Its like solving a puzzle
Mid 90's Buicks had the horn contacts in the air bag assembly. They close circuit when the foam deteriates and burns out the relays and horn coils. Cost me $1000 to get the horn to blow.
What's the link to the bigger 431 scan tool
self-amalgamating tape works as well as shrink tube !
Where did you pick up the flash light you used in this video?
just jam an extendable pole/window washer from seat headrest to steering wheel horn button. worst that will happen is, you find the issue and it honks until you stop it. perhaps while cleaning your shorts a bit :))
hi, i found your video because you know how it goes. issues. so my fuses are good but with i check continuity it doesnt beep. and its not just my horns is a few different ones but, like i the fuses are good. any ideas?
Question, will that launch scan tool allow you to program new keys and key fobs?
I have a few of those eyelets from the days of changing lead-free battery terminals...
...and usually you let the solder air cool...first time I saw someone do that...