I'm a professional installer, and it's nice to see something in between the "solar never can pay for itself" and the folks who click on the ads Google and Facebook and pay tens of thousands more than they have to.
This video helped me a lot in deciding to do my own install. I wish I had more options for racking its seems to have gotten a lot more expensive so I went wood. Hoping I don’t regret it.
Another great show. The comments are valuable too. So much drama on the internet this is so nice to see and keeps my blood pressure down. I won't get much if any rebates as I am retired with low income. Probably won't save much on electricity because I don't use much electricity. I will check with my electric company anyway since this is the way of the future.
Great video Dave! I live off grid in Canada and have also found that in order to reduce racking costs and roofing costs, I was able to arrange my used panels as the roof for my woodshed. The woodshed is close to the house so trenching and wire costs were reduced. By using them as shingles for the roof, I reduced my roofing materials cost and racking costs simultaneously. It just took a lttle custom flashings that I bent out of a roll of aluminum to eliminate leaks. Facing a few panels east and west is a good idea if you have cheap panels to smooth out that curve of production and use. South is best of course for overall highest input from each panel.
Nice! I was considering making a wood storage area with used solar panels as the roof. Did you seal the panels to each other? Do you have a picture of the result? Thanks!
If it is a new install make sure the "used" panels if you go that route are ul listed. Some of the used panels for sale have had all the labels removed and you will not get your final inspections approved for grid tie.
Been studying solar for a year...EVERY (ALL) ripoff companies (all of them), tried to get me under contract up to near $100K (no kidding)...as I inquired about parts...WHAT A SCAM industry...car salesmen are WAY more honest :))). HA!! This video is the BEST honest overview I have seen. Kudos to you sir!!! and I will follow your info, and this spring, I will take advantage of all of YOUR hard work :)) Thanks so much.
Thanks, for the feedback. You're right, there are a lot of scammers out there giving solar a bad name. However, there are some good ones out there, hopefully people can learn enough from what I did to do it themselves, or pick an honest installer.
Good video once again Dave ! I just got (jan-2023) 8.88 kWp system, 24 x SunPro panels 370W + Sungrow 8.8 k string inverter ( 3-phase) Installed "turn key" price was 8430 euros. Half of it was installation fee 40% of that I´ll get tax rebate 1580 euros. Total price was 6850 euros. Greetings from Finland.
Just installed my own off grid system with 20 450 watt znshine panels 7 on east facing roof,7 vertically mounted on east facing wall and 6 more vertically mounted on south facing wall. With bluepower 6548 (2) units mounted and connected to give me 240 volt service using the built in mppt controllers to handle the three strings which call for whatever power needs the house requires. Also have 8 walmart special deep cycle 100 amp hour batteries in a 48 volt setup. Also have a breaker from main load center sending power to inverters during the night. With a dozen more batteries could keep the grid breaker off as long as sun comes up next morning to recharge batteries as when called for panels can make up to 5kw as long as sun is shining. Most sunny days i dont need grid til sundown
I live in Southern California, and we haven’t had 11 cent electricity for 30 years, so justifying solar is a slam dunk. My SDGE tier 3 rate this year is $0.41but with solar, I I stay at tier 1 which is $0.32. I chose Solar City rental agreement at $0.15 per kWh. There are no upfront costs to me. My reason for not buying my rooftop system is my shading factor was about 30% loss of sunlight on average. Also I needed to re-roof as they won’t instal over concrete tile roofing, it must be swapped out for composition roofing. Solar City did all this for free, and it looks perfect. So my 6 kW 23 panel system theoretical production is 9,600 kWh per year, the actual is 7,200 kWh. I only pay Solar City for the 7,200 kWh and through net energy metering, only buy about 1,200 kWh from the utility. WIN-WIN. love your channel.
Good analysis to consider all options. You also need to consider best overall life cycle cost. Use panel life is shorter and they are already degrading more per year. If you are doing a new project, just use new panels.
Optimizers are DC-DC converters, which have losses. In the case where you have matched panels all in full sun, I doubt you'll see much if any loss of generation from removing them. You may even see slightly higher production because you no longer have the internal losses of the optimizers.
West facing and believe it or not north facing panels can perform in the right circumstances. My north slope carport roof receives a huge solar bounce from a steep metal roof on the house. There are times when the north face actually outperforms the south. It keeps producing late afternoon and was well worth doing, the same applies to many west face situations.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Thank you very muvh for your short and concise explanation of the different systems. No personal or family history or explanations using uneducated system and component terminology. Great job.
I have helped two friends and watched many off grid solar installs and this is the first time I have seen the use of a optimizer. I will have to try an look at your other videos
Great tip on the used panels! I installed some used panels (115W ca.late 90's - early 00's) on a camper bus build, for a friend, and they're super reliable. The sizing of older panels, along with the lower open circuit voltage and short circuit current are very versatile. Funny fact: they're manufactured by Shell
Find More information for this project and others on my website: projectswithdave.com Other related videos you may like: Super Cheap Solar Panel Review: ua-cam.com/video/qu4iGxBhqzs/v-deo.html Check out the first year performance results here: ua-cam.com/video/BatTeSq05rU/v-deo.html See the total system cost here: ua-cam.com/video/PNTO83FvaL4/v-deo.html And How to size your solar system here: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html 4 Things to Know About Solar in the Snow: ua-cam.com/video/vY3PufzPUnI/v-deo.html Ground Vs Roof Mount Solar: ua-cam.com/video/w-iS_8e7n60/v-deo.html How to Get A Permit For Your Solar System: ua-cam.com/video/imiEYDHLG4A/v-deo.html How to Crimp MC4 Connectors: ua-cam.com/video/oH3LqTu4B8E/v-deo.html 3 Solar Panel Wiring Issues Answered: ua-cam.com/video/i7vHEHB3a-M/v-deo.html Net Metering Explained With Actual Data: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html
Why are there used panels available? I can understand used cars - some people have higher standards for reliability and looks, so they replace the vehicle before its end of life. But what circumstances lead to used panels?
There are multiple reasons for the availability of used panels, one is the result of upgrading to higher performance panels. Some installations are limited by available space and the only way to get more power is to replace the panels with a newer higher efficiency panel. Other panels could be the result of a recall for some manufacturing defect, so you should purchase from a trusted source that will back up the performance.
When you buy used you have to consider how old they are and how long have they been producing? Degradation becomes advanced for your calculation and will lose production on the tail end compared to the same time frame as new. Time for financing matters as well. Where you are located regarding latitude makes a difference. The closer one is to the equator the better production you will realize. Regarding direction, south captures the most efficient arc of the movement of the sun across the sky. Perhaps a change in the tilt angle for winter and summer might pay dividends. One has to realize the life of the inverter and if it needs replaced will be out of your pocket. I lost 11% production being not directly south but a bit west on the roof. Are there obstacles that impact your array that you have no control over? Shade is an enemy. I wish my prices were as low as what you have demonstrated. Like a lot of things the longer it goes the price comes down.
Including panels,inverters,zclips,solar wire,fuses and accessories batteries included spent $8000.00 for it all but went through a lot of elbow grease installing everything alone. This includes duplicate load center connected to inverters and once working moved everything from grid load center to inverter lc. Try to do most laundry and baking/welding projects on sunny days to take advantage of the energy the panels can produce that house doesnt need normally.also looking to get electric hot water heater as a dump load for panels on sunny days to cut back on propane i normally use for hot water. Pellet stove heats house during winter and that only draws 80 watts per hr.
Hi Dave, Thanks for the informative solar videos. I recently finished my grid tied system using used solar panels and motivation from your videos. (13 kW system w/SMA string inverters). The project was more time consuming than I estimated but I throughly enjoyed it. I would like to point out a couple things. 1. Unfortunately used panels don’t qualify for the federal tax credit. 2. RES Supply sells SMA string inverters about $500 cheaper. 3. Ohio does have a SREC (Solar Renewable Energy Certificate) market that solar owners can sign up for. Ohio’s market doesn’t pay much but on a system your size could equate to maybe $1300 in 10 years time. Looking forward to your next video. Dan
Thanks for the information! I was not aware of the tax credit limitation on used panels. That would change the numbers a little bit. The new JA Solar 530W panels would be an even better solution in that case, it doesn't change the order, but makes it much closer to the used panel solutions. Thanks!
Hello, if used panels dont apply to the tax credit, would the rest of the parts including inverters and batteries count as long as they are new? any info would be great. thanks
Dual purpose solar panels, they use water to cool panels, you can use the hot water for domestic... there is a guy in NJ who gets temps of over 100 F in the winter, he uses it to heat domestic and melt the snow on his driveway...the dual purpose panels was an idea I had over 10 years ago, they make them in the USA because I sent them the idea....small sailboat type wind generators... to compliment the system... when dealing with DC power, I highly suggest you look at some of the wire used by RC builders, high strand count, high conductivity, low resistance silicone wire. Luna Cycles in US sells some good stuff for wire.....but I'm sure you can find the same product just about anywhere, double wall or glue type heat shrink tubing for outdoor connections... if your system use's 100 amp load, build for 200 amp load.... if they tell you 10G wire... use 8 or 6G wire...Liquid electrical tape, royal pain to use but... works well... liquid PVC more or less so be very careful using it, especially around pets and children... in Iceland they make small wind generator's but have NO over speed issue's because of rotor design, not a " prop " type rotor it a savarious or whatever you call it. LTO batteries... last you a lifetime, over 50,000 cycles, low temp usage to about -20...high discharge rate, bolt together for easy assembly to make any size amp hour or voltage you need, there is a video on you tube, this guy built a LTO battery for his van, but the way he built the pack was very nice and well thought out IMO....
I really like your videos. Thanks for sharing! From what I have studied it appears optimizers in most cases are not needed and do not add to the efficiency of the solar panels. Then by adding them you increase your install cost and have more things to break. I have a rapid shutdown scenario so I bought Tigo TS4-A-2F units that each can be used for two panels so that kept my cost lower than using optimizers. I also am going with a Sol-ark 12k unit since I want to be able to power from the grid and have a charge controller for my 15Kwh lithium battery backup. I will not be selling power back to the utility since I don't want to hassle with all the BS required for that. Besides utilities are making it less advantageous to do that. I live in Southern Cali and our rates are crazy high. Usually over 35 cents per KWh. I am on a time of use program where super off peak rates are 8 cents per Kwh. I charge our electric car during these periods and can use my battery to help fill in during my peak rate times.
I see you never priced or used any Micro inverters I found used enphase inverters very cost effective and no string lose. Great work on the cost comparisons and I believe you ROI is right on. One other thing for electrical costing do you use the posted price per kwh or I actually use the cost divided by the kwh used because it is the actual cost as many utilities have added tax and delivery charges. Good luck Solar is the way to go.
Enphase inverters have always priced out to be the most expensive option in my investigations. Where did you find used Enphase inverters? As for the kWh rate, I use the total including tax minus the standard monthly connection fee, which is $47 for me.
I've been planning to build a fold out "solar trailer" to get around permits, and possibly have for easy transport to emergency relief sites in need of immediate power options without a steady fuel supply, and this video is a good breakdown that will help me optimize the size of the trailer I need for the best cost. Thank you.
One big solar panel produces as much energy on a good day as 1 liter of fuel does in half an hour in a 40lb honda generator. Don't bother lugging it all around unless it's for a rental where noise is a factor (movie sets).
@@Thesaltyseafish I don't think you quite get the idea behind it. It wouldn't be "one" solar panel. It would be several, all mounted to a highly mobile and easily deployed trailer, possibly with integrated battery storage. It would also be intended for use in areas where getting fuel, and moving it around, is not only difficult, but could potentially be dangerous. It's also meant for long term relief, not just for a day or two. For example, a relief tent set up at a town destroyed by a tornado, flood, earthquake, hurricane, or large scale fire. Places where people might be trying to get fuel from anywhere they can, even if that means taking it from relief workers by force. Having a reliable source of power that is not likely to disturb relief efforts, won't take valuable fuel away from vehicles used in rescue efforts, and can be moved as needed without having to do more than fold it away, provides a valuable resource that can help in those situations. It can even be loaded onto a boat and quickly transferred if needed.
i was thinking along the same lines of using a large pontoon boat as a power base and putting 10 24 volt panels on top as a roof. we fish anyways so shade is nice on the lake. extra bonus is plug the system into the house power when its parked in the driveway collecting bird poo lol
I went through the same analysis and arrived at an identical conclusion. Interesting revelation is the panel degradation is dramatically lower compared to the rate at which our electric rates are increasing. In the end the annual year over year financial gain is positive.
Partial shading will not much affect on the production of your system because the blocked block will be by-passed by diode. the lost is just 1~5% only.
Last summer I called santan solar and bought used 250 watt panels for $30 each but i bought 104 of them. You can easily make your racking out of wood to save money. I'm in off grid so I don't sell back to the grid, I have 86,000 watt hrs of lithium with 4- 240v inverters and a transformer. It's more expensive by far but when the power goes out everywhere else I have power. If your grid tied your not going to have any power, be sitting in the dark with the rest of em.
Thanks for sharing your system info. I'm considering a more cost effective middle ground, where I still have a grid connection, but have battery backup for emergencies. Are you completely disconnected from the grid, or do you have a connection in case you need extra power?
Could you cover what is the difference with a string inverter? And using either the string or the one that you installed, can you connect those to battery backup for outages?
Thanks! I'm testing some new equipment now. There are several Great new options on the market, but it will be a few months before I have a chance to compile all the information.
Love your video! But, this is just my opinion, what you paid AFTER your rebate, is what you can get a system for with some good lifepo4 batteries. To me the grid tied systems are a scam, the people selling them are really getting the rebate (of course if you do it yourself like you did, it's way better). Still, I know it's easier when using your 220 V central air and such, compared to batteries. My house is all propane for hot water, stove, and heat, we also have a wood stove that heats the whole house if the winter. Central air and the dryer are the only big pieces of equipment that we don't use our solar on. We didn't really do it to save money, just to use it each day, and when the power goes out, it's worth more than money. Here in WV we don't have too many outages but we seem to get more each year, and the way the world is going right now, I wouldn't take a million $$$ for my system. It works great! You have a great system set up!
Nice job! Thanks for the input! Of course my house is all electric, including winter heat so off grid is a pretty significant challenge. However, I intend to get there some day... : )
I also have an off grid system. I installed it myself. I have 12,000 watts of panels. I never use all of my energy produced. But I have natural gas for most of my major appliances. Water heater, stove, dreyer and fireplace insert. I still use some electric from the utility company. Some months when using more power from my mini splits during the winter. I only have 20,000 watts of battery back up. I could still unhook the grid power if needed. But the comfort is highly important. So we run the heat with our mini splits in the bedrooms.
If you do it right, you can get a 9kWh system for around $5,000.. Santan Solar has great deals on pallets of panels and you can get them for under $0.35 a watt.. That paired with Growatt or MPP hybrid inverters and a diy rack will get you there.. Then you can add some server rack battery backup for $300 a kWh...
@@ProjectsWithDave I would think a lot of people that have the space for ground mounts do not have codes or inspections. I know I don't.. That said, there is some DIY friendly racking that is UL listed like Iron Ridge that is also very cost effective.
Hi, just a thought, if we are looking for extra winter power maybe the best orientation will not be due west but a lesser angle. At my location in the winter the sun does not get to due west. No significant difference on cloudy days but a gain when the sun shines. My personal opinion is it is best to design for winter and the summer will look after itself but I am aiming for grid independance. I think my inclination would be to pick a point two or three weeks each side of the winter solstice and aim at mid/late afternoon sun. Just a few approximate figures people might find interesting. They are calculated figures for my the location of my property about 59° latitude 30miles or so east of Greenwich. It not practical to have independent racking, all my panels need to be mounted on the structures. I have used the European research centre for the calculations which take into account average weather conditions at your specified location which includes cloud cover and temperature (PVGIS). They provide calculations for the whole world but I am not sure if you can access it from outside the EU. Approx calculated average figures for december and january South+14° wall, ave daily output 1kw per kw of solar panel optimum pitch approx 19°. East +14° facing roof pitch 18°: 0.25kw/kw of panel, E+14° wall 0.5kw/kw of panel, optimum angle approx 47/48°. Yes the east roof produces a little more total annual power but much less in winter.
Thanks for sharing your investigation. I agree, if you are looking to go off grid, and you live towards the north, it is best to design for maximum winter time output. The early data from my west facing test rig shows that since there is very little clipping in the winter, it would be better to have the panels facing south. Once I get the full data, I'll bring the analysis here for everyone's reference. Thanks!
Top to bottom Self installed...25Kw solar array... 25Kw split phase charge controller/inverter system...30Kw FLA battery storage... less than $30,000. $1.20/watt Off-grid, low maintenance Why hire labor for a plug n play system Freedom is included
Very nice video. I am interested in solar panels here in Texas without the micro inverters or optimizers as I am a Ham Radio operator and there is significant noise produced by these items. Even some MPPT solar controllers are bad in that respect. So for portable solar you have to do your research. Again, thanks for your video. Used panels was a surprise to me. Have me thinking now.
Thanks for the info on Ham Radio interference. If you want to reduce your interference, you may want to consider putting the inverter out with the solar racking instead of at the house. This will require larger conductors running to the house because of the lower voltage, but it may help with your interference by increasing the distance to your antenna and giving you more opportunity for shielding against the noise. Keep doing your research, I'm sure you will find the right solution for you. : )
@@ProjectsWithDave sure thing. I saw a UA-cam video where they tracked down radio interference from the neighbors house a few hundred feet away. The solar panels were using the solar edge optimizers I think. I will try to get some real tests done with different solar setups. They used a mag loop antenna to go around the neighborhood to isolate the noise. With a loop antenna you can make the noise go away when you twist that antenna. This gives you the direction the noise is coming from. Note: I am not trying to tell you have the wrong setup. I am just exploring and asking the ham radio and ham questions. Thanks for taking time to respond. I like your channel and I still want to put in my own solar system. All. The best.
I would go micro inverters like enphase (each 1 or 2 panels has a dc to ac inverter) as I prefer per solar panel monitoring they are also firefighter safe (it is the with solaredge as each module drops to under 1v if inverter grid power is lost or there is a brake in the string) but you have 2 points of failure with solaredge dc to dc power optimizers and the inverter) technically you have per panel a string system that looks at the whole system only (can't see individual solar panel status and dc string is always live and not firefighter safe) if using sunnyboy make sure shade fix is enabled (if you have a old sunyboy inverter update your firmware and enable it might be called something els in the settings)
Your proposals make sense for a roof mount, but firefighting shouldn't be an issue with a ground mount system. The goal of this video was to show low cost options, Enphase is nice solution, but it is the most expensive to install and has the greatest line losses between the house and the array due to it's low operating voltage.
If you are going to compare it to an investment you have to include depreciation of the solar system. At the end of an investment the principal along with earned interest are all available.
Hey Dave, great videos! I'm just starting to plan my PV project and your videos have given me the best information by far! I was a little surprised by your power consumption of 24,000 kwh per year until you said you're using geothermal. Can you estimate how much of that your geothermal heat pump uses? What's the square footage of your house and how well is it insulated? I'll be building a new home next year with 2,400 sq.ft. which will be very well insulated, if necessary using geothermal. Depending on that I will calculate the PV system size. Thanks for you content.
My house is ICF construction, It has 2,400 finished square feet, but the basement is also conditioned. A month with very little heat or AC I like October, I consume about 1,144kWh. You can get more detail from my 1year review video: ua-cam.com/video/BatTeSq05rU/v-deo.html And from my video on sizing your solar array: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html Thanks!
So many questions about batteries! Batteries are a huge expense, folks. If you want or need to go off grid, you are going to pay a huge premium for that. It will blow your payback period into decades. Or else you will have to live with a severe power limitation because you don't have enough. And then there's also replacement cost, since they don't last all that long when you cycle them every day. One thing that makes sense is to heat all your domestic water, and maybe even space heating with hot water panels. Very easy to DIY such panels, heat storage tanks, etc.
i would not use optimizers unless your panels are shaded they say new panels have diodes to help with shading how much is optimiser $80 each nearly price of another inverter
look at it another way. how about basing it on MPPT. Maximum power point tracking is a relatively new technology and basing the solar panel and output on MPPT is another option. Of course you have inverters but focus on DC into the MPPT. so, solar panels, MPPT, and battery. you would focus on VOC accuracy and wire size since winter and summer power is different and effects the power output. an MPPT of 150/ 30 would be 3 panels of max power of 44.7 volts and 9 amps of 9 identical panels, 3 in series and 3 groups in parallel. This would be going into one MPPT. you can use your cheap used 400 watt panels. the MPPT will determine the power storage in the battery so the more battery the better. Take total watt of your array and multiply by 5 for battery KWh. Some MPPT only use input from serial string panels, most MPPT from serial and parallel.
Most newer quality string inverters have multiple MPPT inputs. As you said the key to optimal performance is matching the ideal voltage and current capability of each MPPT input rather than the inverter base spec.
I would think that you would get the most facing the auxiliary panels if they are facing south east and south west. Maybe another test after the auxiliary panels facing east and west
Great video! What I wonder though why batteries are not part of this total cost - or are you operating without batteries and in the night you are using grid power?
Hi Dave, i have 20kwt solar system for sell electricity, and now building 6*580W jinko panels for my home with hydrid Usful 5.5 kwt inverter- thanks for your video. I want to share with you Ukranian dude’s video where he explain phisical process, why it is necessary to use East and West sites. Use google translate-it is on russian, so you do your own detail video about this effect
Thanks for doing the analysis and data for me. I do not reinventing a wheel. How are prices since a year ago now? Higher or lower? It is now Q4 of 2022, lots of new hardware and systems on the market and new tax credit coming in 2023. I am going to presume I need 12KW system on a ground array. 1, Does it matter if hardware is US made or someplace else to obtain the tax credit? 2. It seems like it may be best to go with largest/highest output panel (used if they exist in supply chain) to reduce rack size, cost, footprint? Is this your point? vs use of smaller less powerful panels that would take many more panels to do the same power output. 3. So you did not use micro-inverters (correct term?) on each panel, i have seen claim that some micro inverter allow two panels/ micro inverter. Do they help with system failure/maintenance? and also do the newer micro inverters reduce "clipping" of the overall panel system output?
My original install used optimizers, but this is an expensive solution. I did a recent install on my shed using micro inverters that is working very well ( Shed install video: ua-cam.com/video/Y8OGxdJ9cU8/v-deo.html ). Panel output vs array size is just something you have to balance for your install.
Thks, this had been my plan/hope for a few years & you've help me along the way ; !DIY Rules! ??Oh where did you find the used U/L solar panels from (I want to go grid-tied)??
You can get used UL listed panels from SanTan solar. Just purchase the ones that still have the original manufacture's label. You can see their latest options from my affiliate link here: ( store.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=EverydayDave ) Also Linda's contact information is in the description if you are looking for pallet pricing on larger orders.
Really informative. I think the only real concern with second hand panels is what kind of life expectancy they have left? Does the performance drop off at some point? I guess it's hard to get real world figures for that unless the same panel has been in production for a good long time.
Panels typically have a steady degradation curve. You could always check the historical performance of panels from the same brand and type for reference.
Yeah, even 20 yr panels should still produce 80% of original, most likely more like 90% depending on how hot/cold the area is. I have some 2000 era model bp solar panels which are 51 watts each, they still produce over 40w.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. You are still applying the 26% rebate even when you include USED panels in your scenarios. Doesn't the rebate only apply to equipment not previously put into service?
Hi Dave, thanks for your video, after watching many videos on solar panels, I have found yours to be the most useful. I have a question or two for you. I haven't purchased anything yet, and am still trying to understand string inverters and how they are set up. I think at this point my ultimate goal is to set up a grid tie system in the 7,8, or 9 kw range. Question #1. When you arrange your panels in series or parallel, how many panels can you put in each series or unit. I should probably ultimately have 25 or 30 panels. Question #2. When pricing new units what should I keep in mind regarding the amperage of each unit? Thanks for your assistance. Randy
The answer to these questions are all driven by the inverter you choose. If you are going to do a string inverter with no optimizers, you want string together as many panels as possible and still stay under the max voltage of the input for your inverter. For instance if you have a 600V max input on your inverter and your panels have a max voltage of 37VDC you could make two strings of 16 panels each and stay within that limit. As far as amperage, each series string will match the max amperage of the panel you choose. If you use a SunnyBoy inverter with a max usable input amperage of 10A, and your panels have a max current of 12A, you will see some clipping, but that is ok. Sorry, it isn't a simple answer. I'm considering making a video to explain how to choose inverters and panels.... some day when I have more time : )
The first thing you do is plan the amount of panels you can fit on your destination. If you building a rack, you have to decide on a size. After that you select the exact panels and have the quantity, you check the datasheet and plan you strings for your choosen inverter. Most manufacturers have tools, where you can put in the exact model of panel you want to use and the quantity and they will present you the best fitting Inverter. For the SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 (US Version) the max Input Voltage is 600V. You habe 3 independend MPPT Trackers / Inputs, so you want to use 3 Strings. If you use 72Cell (or 144half cell) Panels in the 360-380WP Range, most of them will habe a maximum short circuit power below 50V (it´s a little difficult to calculate, because the maximum short circuit voltage depends on the temperature of the panel and can be higher than the given value in the datasheet at lower temperatures. In this case the maximum amount of panels per string would be 12 (x3 =36 max for this Inverter). If you stay in the range of 8-9kwp with your panels and all of them are looking in the same direction (south), you could string 2x12. 2 longer Strings are better than 3 shorter Strings. But, you also could build (for example) 10 Panels East - String/MPPT 1, 10 Panels South - String MPPT 2 and 10 Panels West - Sting MPPT 3, which would give you 11400WP, but because of the 3 different directions, the panels will have slightly different peak times and you can use you inverter more efficent.
@@Thorsten_Wiegand if the inverter is 7.7kw and all panels look at the same direction how can you install 8-9kw?there is no danger to blow the inverter?
@@audiophilesland969 : Hello. The rated power of the modules is the peak power (in this example it´s 8-9kwp). That means, that this much power is only generated in optimal conditions (cold modules and full sun directly in the perfect angle). Most of the time (~99%) you won´t get that much power. The inverter in my example is rated for a maximum PC-input power of ~11-12kw. That means he can handle that much power from the modules without a problem. (All PV-Inverters are like that. In most cases you can go ~20-30% over the rated outputpower - you have to look that up in the tech-sheet). For Clarification: The Output of the Inverter won´t go higher than the rated 7.7kw. He will simply cut evertything above 7.7kw and it will be lost. But because the time, when the PV-Modules deliver their absolute peak power is very limited, you won´t loose much.
@@Thorsten_Wiegand thanks for the answer.i have a sunnyboy rated for 1550w output and 1850w max input I have only 1500watts array.i guess I can safely add one more panel
An East/West array produces nearly as much energy as a South facing array. This is due to the Sun hitting the face of the panels longer during the day. The Solar generation curve is indeed widened and flattened out. Additionally, your array produces energy earlier and later in the day because the panels are facing directly into the Sun. My Electric company (in FL) is even trying to get people to install West facing panels because, here in Florida, there is so much A/C demand that having West facing panels can really make a big difference. I think more Electric companies will begin installing East/West , fixed mount, systems to reduce the LCOE and many might begin installing extra West facing panels to better match their demand curve.
Thanks for that information! Do you have any articles or documents you can share on where you got your information? I'm always looking for actual data. Thanks!
It is not true that East or West facing panels produce the same as South facing ones. The main reason is that the East-West facing panels ignore the sunlight till the sun is at a degree higher than the tilt. Since keeping a flat panel is not recommended due to accumulation of dust and washing problems, a small tilt, say of 10 degrees is a must. This means the panels will simply not work for 1/9th of a day and work at a very low intensity for another good length of the day till the sunrays make sufficiently straight contact with the panels. On an average, expect a loss of 1/6th of the energy generation in comparison to south facing panels
@@shrujanamsyama9940 I never said that East/West facing panels produced the same amount of energy as South facing panels, I said "Nearly as much". I believe when you consider the low angle of the Sun during Winter months which reduce the effectiveness of South facing panels, and the fact that an East/West array will not be effected by the Sun's lower angle, the East/West array will produce nearly as much energy as the South facing array. Your point of an East/West array producing 1/6th less energy is reasonable, however, I think the energy reduction is less than 1/6th (perhaps 50% less than your 1/6th figure).
@@ProjectsWithDave I could swear that I answered this question when you asked it, however, it seems to not have been properly recorded. I don't have the original article that I first read about East/West arrays, but a quick Google search for East/West Solar arrays will bring up a good number of articles for your research.
@@bbcooter388 Even during winters, the sun is still in the south (assuming you are in North hemisphere) and south facing panel serves the best. Only for those people who are on the equator, the east/west facing panels may perform somewhat close to south facing panels. For everyone in North Hemisphere above 10 degree latitude, it is decisively south facing panels which is the best. Similarly, everyone below 10 degree South Latitude, North facing is decisively best.
facing panels east and west is not a new thing we do it all the time in off grid to flatten the curve and level production as very few people use peak power at noon. also starting to do it more on grid tie when the utility company changed its buy back policy. her in sask they give you 1kwh for every 2kwh you give them so face the panels east and west to flatten the curve and make it larger in the morning and evening so more is consumed by the customer and less if fed back to grid for a higher return.
Thanks for your information. So much of solar is dependent on your physical location and the incentives or lack of incentives provided by your local government or utility. I like to collect data for myself and give people another data point to work with. : )
Unfortunately for those of us that are retired the tax "rebate" Doesn't work as we generally do not have the taxes to get the rebate from. A true rebate would be a great thing for us and quite the incentive to go solar!
That’s a good point. If you want to have solar to supplement your expenses in retirement, it makes the most sense to install it while you are still working to take advantage of the tax incentives.
Most of the people watching these videos are either putting in a system or already have one. I put in a system that I thought I needed. But the reality was that it’s oversized. So now since I am retiring soon. I am considering buying an electric car. So I can charge it during the day.
I did a video on why I chose the size system that I installed to maximize return on investment. You can watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html Also, if you are considering an electric car, I discuss some related options in this video: ua-cam.com/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/v-deo.html Thanks!
Thanks for pointing out the amperage limitations of the SunyBoy system. However, according to their design software the system can handle the higher input, it just limits the input current to 10A resulting in a 2.17% loss. The 18 panels is a bit overpower for the system and it would be better to just use 17 panels which would also match the 9kW of the other system comparisons I made. If what you are saying is true, even the system you planning would not work as the 380W Q cells put out 10.5A. If you have some information showing it can't handle the input, or the SMA design software is in error, please let me know. Thanks! Here is a link to the design software results: ( drive.google.com/file/d/11rEOtXr7y6K_gpgGOpmtrspattXJzVLG/view?usp=sharing )
I called SMA to confirm your concern. The spec sheet shows a maximum short circuit current of 18A. The system will only utilize up to 10A, but it can handle up to an 18A input. Since the JA Solar 530W panels are 12.8A they are well within the system limitations. See the spec sheet here: drive.google.com/file/d/1YaPrmoqx_wlnVeV_pSad8lgbbBSymkZN/view?usp=sharing Hope that helps. Thanks!
Thanks for the info yours is one of the first videos I use to start my system. I wish I had known I could use the larger panels it would have saved me a lot. Here is the tech note that had me worried. TECHNICAL NOTE Topic: DC Input Current Ratings for Sunny Boy Inverters SUMMARY The technical data in the SMA product data sheets is specified for nominal operating conditions. The specified DC maximum input current refers to the actual continuous input current recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system. DC INPUT CURRENT RATINGS FOR SUNNY BOY SYSTEMS The DC maximum input current specified in the Sunny Boy product data sheets refers to the actual continuous input current recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system. Due to the common Maximum Power Point (MPP) characteristics of the inverter input, the inverter will not be able to find the optimal power point if the current is outside of the specified range. In that case, losses in energy yield can occur. However, the inverter will not be affected if the short circuit current of the connected PV modules exceeds the specified value. The following table shows the DC input current specifications of the Sunny Boy US-type inverters as well as the respective short circuit current of the connected PV strings (considering 125% NEC factor). These values are recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system: Inverter model SB 3000US SB 4000US SB 5000US SB 6000US SB 7000US Rated DC maximum input current IMP (continuous) 17 Amp 18 Amp 21 Amp 25 Amp 30 Amp Maximum short circuit current of connected PV strings ISC (considering 125% NEC factor) 22 Amp 23 Amp 27 Amp 32 Amp 36 Amp In addition, the current limitations for any system with SMA Sunny Boy inverters SB 3000US, SB 4000US, SB 5000US, SB 6000US and SB 7000US with respecitive SMA DC Disconnect model are defined by the physical current limitations of the DC disconnect and the integrated string fuses: » The maximum string fuse rating of the SMA DC disconnect unit is 20 Amp. The NEC requires that all fuses and wiring be sized for a minimum of 1.56 times the ISC of the PV module used in the system. Consequently, the maximum short circuit current per string can be up to 12.8 Amp. » The maximum operating current of the DC disconnect unit (all parallel strings combined) is 34 Amp. If there are additional questions or if further clarification is needed, please refer to the inverter manual or contact technical support at SMA America, LLC. SMA America, LLC 6020 West Oaks Blvd, Ste 300 Rocklin, CA 95765 +1 916 625 0870 Service@SMA-America.com TechNSBDcINPU-hUS112912
That would not be sufficient to allow me to drop my gird connection, I plan to do a video in the future to explain why. In short, my largest consumption by far is in the winter when my geothermal system is heating my house. That is also when my solar production is the lowest. I would need a much larger array along with batteries to close the gap.
Hi Dave, This is very nice spreadsheet. One question I need your answer, why there is no budget to have Battery to store excess energy generated during daytime, so, those could be use during night time ? SY
The system I installed is grid-tie only. It does not require a battery. Batteries add a lot of cost that is very hard to recover. The grid acts like the battery. If you have net metering, it is the lowest cost solution for installing solar. You can see more on how it works for me in this video: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html
Yes, if you want adjustable I would consider Sinclair : sinclair-designs.com/solar-ground-mounts I'm not affiliated with them, but I have friends that have used the racking and are happy with it.
Someone tell you, you CAN NOT take the tax credit on used solar panels? It isn't allowed since it would allow for double dipping on the tax credit. Only all new materials. At least that was the situation back in 2011-2012 when I did my last system. Love Santan, love using these retired solar farm panels. Sometimes it's not the cheapest options.
Thank you for the great video Dave Dave. Could you please tell me the model number on that 530 W half cut JAsolar panel that you referenced in this video? I can’t seem to find it. Super helpful 0:05 and again thank you
Thanks! That panel was a clearance panel SanTan happened to have on sale at the time. There is a good deal on a similar 540W panel, here's a link: www.santansolar.com/product/new-canadian-solar-540w-solar-panel-pallet-of-30/?ref=EverydayDave The goal of the video wasn't necessarily to have you purchase those exact materials, but understand the process to determine what makes the most sense for you.
In the long run, isn't new panel will be more efficient than used panels? To correct the comparison, it would be nice to see maintenance cost between new and used panel? Great information. Thanks.
It all comes down to cost/watt. There should not be a significant difference in maintenance. In general panels slowly degrade at a mostly linear rate. With used panels, you are just picking them up part way down the usage curve. For instance a used panel rated at 230W will should be treated like purchasing a new 200W panel.
A couple questions, where is the battery costs or are you just using the system during the day? What about a solar tracker, why not use one? I know you said you are getting clipping, but i mean if we design it so we get no clipping and then it will make more sense to use the solar tracker. But i would say to invent a tracker that turns the panels themselves instead of trying to use a tracker that has to turn the entire rack, this way it will require less energy to move them therefore it will take less expensive motor and bearings.
I use the grid as my battery, it is way cheaper than battery solutions currently available (watch this video on net metering: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html ) I have yet to find a tracker that could pay for itself. Especially with used panels, it is more cost effective to just add additional panels to achieve your power target.
Great video. What would the cost be if you were to use micro-inverters, and add the cost off energy storage, aka battery? Batterys are expensive, and to get off grid, you'll need storage. For grid tied systems, I have a question, again, I would go with micro-inverters, not sold on a battery at this point, but see cost savings for energy, but big install costs. Most companies recommend systems in the 13kw, 15kw, 17kw, and state this is for annual usage, my question is "Why not install a 9kw system that easily exceeds my monthly usage would eliminate my energy bill, and would cost far less than $30k - $40k?" I don't understand why they sell on an annual basis, but electric bill is monthly, so to me cover monthly. And annual will take care of itself. Thx.
In my opinion you need to look at it from a monthly perspective. Check out this video on sizing your solar system, it give some perspective on why analysis by the month is critical: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Not only because of the price but also because of our corrupt government who is in control of our electricity supply and the whole country has "load shedding" and have no power between 4 to 8 hours every day. Here and now, as I am writing this, we have no grit power in my area for 2 hours. That happens between 2 to 4 times daily and many times 4 hours without electricity. ua-cam.com/video/41iwlsxrQTE/v-deo.html And that was just a weekly report. That is going on all the time, up and down. Years ago when this government took over, we had the best electricity supply in the world. They said it was enough and stopped planning ahead and corruption and theft took over. No more expansion of power generation took place.
Good morning Dave- I'm learning so much from your channel- currently waiting on the utility company to get back w/ me, i've already gotten the application from the city to begin we are here just south of you in KY- I just picked up the 7600 inverter I spoke w/ you about, it was only $700 and was mfg in 2020 so I feel confident that was a good deal, If I'm looking at optimizers used should I stay with a minimum of a P400 even though my panels will be in the 315-320 range for my 1st setup/ or I just saw P600 do they do 2 panels and if so at $64 each on ebay would that be the way to go- I think panel wise I can get into the 300's I don't thin I want to put up and 240's just for the cost of the system- My only doubt w/ the system was that I thought about making my own racking and feel that my city might have to have PE drawings on them so I"ve reached out to the mfg you used, is there a disocunt code you had w/ them?? Oh- last question any reason to go w/ the EV plug on the inverter besides efficiency, i'm running 9cents a KW and my house that I am building is 2k one level w/ basement ICF on both levels, I figure my utility to be about 2/3 of what yours is - why not just add a plug off the 200 amp breaker, if not I plan to add a third arrary to make me net neutral I'd probably be able to find me a solar edge 3800 w/ the ev plug on it for about a grand- thanks so much for the advice, hopefully i'll piece together my parts over the next few months and install around Christmas, currently they have my footers poured and should have my ICF in this week for the foundation pour- best regards,
Wow, you have a lot going on. As for the EV charger, I would just find a good deal on a level II charger, it will probably be less than the cost of the SolarEdge cable and you can mount it wherever you like. (here is a video on my EV connection installation: ua-cam.com/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/v-deo.html ) Make sure whatever optimizer you choose works with your inverter. Be careful with the Ebay optimizers, I have bought a few that way that didn't work. Two panels per optimizer will save you quite a bit, just make sure the clipping impact is not too significant. If the panels are only 300W you should be ok. Call Ready Rack and tell them Everyday Dave sent you, and ask for a discount. I don't have an affiliate relationship with them so I don't actually have any leverage, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Dave, I have one other question. If the power goes out can you switch to your solar panels? My wife says that if the grid goes down you can't use your solar panels.
She is correct, my system will only produce power when the grid is on, most grid tie systems work that way unless you have a separate battery backup system which adds significant cost. But technology is changing! The newer SMA Sunnyboy inverters have the option of attaching an outlet that can provide some power when the grid is down as long as the sun is shinning ( see an old vide on the technology here: ua-cam.com/video/fF461YYNbtw/v-deo.html ). Also the new Enphase 8 that just came out can provide power when the gid is down and the sun is shining (see that technology here: ua-cam.com/video/wK950rn6HVw/v-deo.html )
I'm a professional installer, and it's nice to see something in between the "solar never can pay for itself" and the folks who click on the ads Google and Facebook and pay tens of thousands more than they have to.
Thanks!
This video helped me a lot in deciding to do my own install. I wish I had more options for racking its seems to have gotten a lot more expensive so I went wood. Hoping I don’t regret it.
Hey bro, how can I find and installer that will install the sunwats system?
Local solar companies in southern CA are a ripoff!
@@hotshot3d 99% are in the US!
I enjoy your channel because your presentations of systems and components are comprehensive and concise. Thank you.
Glad you like them!
Probably the most through analysis I have seen. Well done.
Another great show. The comments are valuable too. So much drama on the internet this is so nice to see and keeps my blood pressure down. I won't get much if any rebates as I am retired with low income. Probably won't save much on electricity because I don't use much electricity. I will check with my electric company anyway since this is the way of the future.
Great video Dave! I live off grid in Canada and have also found that in order to reduce racking costs and roofing costs, I was able to arrange my used panels as the roof for my woodshed. The woodshed is close to the house so trenching and wire costs were reduced. By using them as shingles for the roof, I reduced my roofing materials cost and racking costs simultaneously. It just took a lttle custom flashings that I bent out of a roll of aluminum to eliminate leaks.
Facing a few panels east and west is a good idea if you have cheap panels to smooth out that curve of production and use. South is best of course for overall highest input from each panel.
Nice! I was considering making a wood storage area with used solar panels as the roof. Did you seal the panels to each other? Do you have a picture of the result? Thanks!
Caution: Use something that will allow for expansion, or you may have problems down the road. I would not recommend using panels as a roof surface.
Using panels as a car and Rv port would be nice. Kind of like Walmart parking.
Lol what did I win?
@@peckerpeter2078 The VAat Shreveport Louisiana has solar panels as parking covers. It is pretty awesome.
If it is a new install make sure the "used" panels if you go that route are ul listed. Some of the used panels for sale have had all the labels removed and you will not get your final inspections approved for grid tie.
That's correct. SanTan Solar indicates on the panel listing if it is UL listed or not for grid tie applications.
@@ProjectsWithDave one other thing about used. If it’s used I don’t think you can get the rebate on that portion I believe.
Been studying solar for a year...EVERY (ALL) ripoff companies (all of them), tried to get me under contract up to near $100K (no kidding)...as I inquired about parts...WHAT A SCAM industry...car salesmen are WAY more honest :))). HA!! This video is the BEST honest overview I have seen. Kudos to you sir!!! and I will follow your info, and this spring, I will take advantage of all of YOUR hard work :)) Thanks so much.
Thanks, for the feedback. You're right, there are a lot of scammers out there giving solar a bad name. However, there are some good ones out there, hopefully people can learn enough from what I did to do it themselves, or pick an honest installer.
Good video once again Dave ! I just got (jan-2023) 8.88 kWp system, 24 x SunPro panels 370W + Sungrow 8.8 k string inverter ( 3-phase) Installed "turn key" price was 8430 euros. Half of it was installation fee 40% of that I´ll get tax rebate 1580 euros. Total price was 6850 euros. Greetings from Finland.
Thanks! I hope your system does well for you. Thanks for noting your specs and cost for everyone to reference.
Just installed my own off grid system with 20 450 watt znshine panels 7 on east facing roof,7 vertically mounted on east facing wall and 6 more vertically mounted on south facing wall. With bluepower 6548 (2) units mounted and connected to give me 240 volt service using the built in mppt controllers to handle the three strings which call for whatever power needs the house requires. Also have 8 walmart special deep cycle 100 amp hour batteries in a 48 volt setup. Also have a breaker from main load center sending power to inverters during the night. With a dozen more batteries could keep the grid breaker off as long as sun comes up next morning to recharge batteries as when called for panels can make up to 5kw as long as sun is shining. Most sunny days i dont need grid til sundown
I live in Southern California, and we haven’t had 11 cent electricity for 30 years, so justifying solar is a slam dunk. My SDGE tier 3 rate this year is $0.41but with solar, I I stay at tier 1 which is $0.32. I chose Solar City rental agreement at $0.15 per kWh. There are no upfront costs to me. My reason for not buying my rooftop system is my shading factor was about 30% loss of sunlight on average. Also I needed to re-roof as they won’t instal over concrete tile roofing, it must be swapped out for composition roofing. Solar City did all this for free, and it looks perfect. So my 6 kW 23 panel system theoretical production is 9,600 kWh per year, the actual is 7,200 kWh. I only pay Solar City for the 7,200 kWh and through net energy metering, only buy about 1,200 kWh from the utility. WIN-WIN. love your channel.
Sounds like you found a solution that meets your specific needs. Thanks for sharing the details with us!
Good analysis to consider all options. You also need to consider best overall life cycle cost. Use panel life is shorter and they are already degrading more per year. If you are doing a new project, just use new panels.
Thank you for doing your solar panel system videos. I’m learning a lot watching them
Glad you like them!
Optimizers are DC-DC converters, which have losses. In the case where you have matched panels all in full sun, I doubt you'll see much if any loss of generation from removing them. You may even see slightly higher production because you no longer have the internal losses of the optimizers.
West facing and believe it or not north facing panels can perform in the right circumstances. My north slope carport roof receives a huge solar bounce from a steep metal roof on the house. There are times when the north face actually outperforms the south. It keeps producing late afternoon and was well worth doing, the same applies to many west face situations.
Interesting result, thanks for sharing.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Thank you very muvh for your short and concise explanation of the different systems. No personal or family history or explanations using uneducated system and component terminology. Great job.
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Excellent instructions and great comparisons for any DIYers!!!! Thank you!!!!
I have helped two friends and watched many off grid solar installs and this is the first time I have seen the use of a optimizer. I will have to try an look at your other videos
SolarEdge and Tigo offer optimizer solutions. Not necessarily the most cost effective solution.
Great tip on the used panels!
I installed some used panels (115W ca.late 90's - early 00's) on a camper bus build, for a friend, and they're super reliable. The sizing of older panels, along with the lower open circuit voltage and short circuit current are very versatile.
Funny fact: they're manufactured by Shell
Find More information for this project and others on my website: projectswithdave.com
Other related videos you may like:
Super Cheap Solar Panel Review: ua-cam.com/video/qu4iGxBhqzs/v-deo.html
Check out the first year performance results here: ua-cam.com/video/BatTeSq05rU/v-deo.html
See the total system cost here: ua-cam.com/video/PNTO83FvaL4/v-deo.html
And How to size your solar system here: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html
4 Things to Know About Solar in the Snow: ua-cam.com/video/vY3PufzPUnI/v-deo.html
Ground Vs Roof Mount Solar: ua-cam.com/video/w-iS_8e7n60/v-deo.html
How to Get A Permit For Your Solar System: ua-cam.com/video/imiEYDHLG4A/v-deo.html
How to Crimp MC4 Connectors: ua-cam.com/video/oH3LqTu4B8E/v-deo.html
3 Solar Panel Wiring Issues Answered: ua-cam.com/video/i7vHEHB3a-M/v-deo.html
Net Metering Explained With Actual Data: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html
Why are there used panels available? I can understand used cars - some people have higher standards for reliability and looks, so they replace the vehicle before its end of life. But what circumstances lead to used panels?
Dave, did you calculated degradation over time in ?
There are multiple reasons for the availability of used panels, one is the result of upgrading to higher performance panels. Some installations are limited by available space and the only way to get more power is to replace the panels with a newer higher efficiency panel. Other panels could be the result of a recall for some manufacturing defect, so you should purchase from a trusted source that will back up the performance.
I didn't consider degradation or the rise in utility rates in the payback period. I assume they will cancel each other out. : )
When you buy used you have to consider how old they are and how long have they been producing? Degradation becomes advanced for your calculation and will lose production on the tail end compared to the same time frame as new. Time for financing matters as well. Where you are located regarding latitude makes a difference. The closer one is to the equator the better production you will realize. Regarding direction, south captures the most efficient arc of the movement of the sun across the sky. Perhaps a change in the tilt angle for winter and summer might pay dividends. One has to realize the life of the inverter and if it needs replaced will be out of your pocket. I lost 11% production being not directly south but a bit west on the roof. Are there obstacles that impact your array that you have no control over? Shade is an enemy. I wish my prices were as low as what you have demonstrated. Like a lot of things the longer it goes the price comes down.
I've been trying to design my own. Thanks for your video
Including panels,inverters,zclips,solar wire,fuses and accessories batteries included spent $8000.00 for it all but went through a lot of elbow grease installing everything alone. This includes duplicate load center connected to inverters and once working moved everything from grid load center to inverter lc. Try to do most laundry and baking/welding projects on sunny days to take advantage of the energy the panels can produce that house doesnt need normally.also looking to get electric hot water heater as a dump load for panels on sunny days to cut back on propane i normally use for hot water. Pellet stove heats house during winter and that only draws 80 watts per hr.
Hi Dave, Thanks for the informative solar videos. I recently finished my grid tied system using used solar panels and motivation from your videos. (13 kW system w/SMA string inverters). The project was more time consuming than I estimated but I throughly enjoyed it. I would like to point out a couple things.
1. Unfortunately used panels don’t qualify for the federal tax credit.
2. RES Supply sells SMA string inverters about $500 cheaper.
3. Ohio does have a SREC (Solar Renewable Energy Certificate) market that solar owners can sign up for. Ohio’s market doesn’t pay much but on a system your size could equate to maybe $1300 in 10 years time.
Looking forward to your next video. Dan
Thanks for the information! I was not aware of the tax credit limitation on used panels. That would change the numbers a little bit. The new JA Solar 530W panels would be an even better solution in that case, it doesn't change the order, but makes it much closer to the used panel solutions. Thanks!
Hello, if used panels dont apply to the tax credit, would the rest of the parts including inverters and batteries count as long as they are new? any info would be great. thanks
Of course you should always check with your tax advisor, but I believe the new parts would qualify.
I have been getting tax credits for used panels for years. There is nothing in tax form 5695 about used panels
Dual purpose solar panels, they use water to cool panels, you can use the hot water for domestic... there is a guy in NJ who gets temps of over 100 F in the winter, he uses it to heat domestic and melt the snow on his driveway...the dual purpose panels was an idea I had over 10 years ago, they make them in the USA because I sent them the idea....small sailboat type wind generators... to compliment the system... when dealing with DC power, I highly suggest you look at some of the wire used by RC builders, high strand count, high conductivity, low resistance silicone wire. Luna Cycles in US sells some good stuff for wire.....but I'm sure you can find the same product just about anywhere, double wall or glue type heat shrink tubing for outdoor connections... if your system use's 100 amp load, build for 200 amp load.... if they tell you 10G wire... use 8 or 6G wire...Liquid electrical tape, royal pain to use but... works well... liquid PVC more or less so be very careful using it, especially around pets and children... in Iceland they make small wind generator's but have NO over speed issue's because of rotor design, not a " prop " type rotor it a savarious or whatever you call it. LTO batteries... last you a lifetime, over 50,000 cycles, low temp usage to about -20...high discharge rate, bolt together for easy assembly to make any size amp hour or voltage you need, there is a video on you tube, this guy built a LTO battery for his van, but the way he built the pack was very nice and well thought out IMO....
Thank You for All that you are doing for World Peace and for our Planet...
Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. La Paz.. Namaste ..
🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮️ ❤️ 💐 🕊
Thanks!
This video was a great eye opener on basic cost considerations. Subbed!
Awesome, thank you!
I really like your videos. Thanks for sharing!
From what I have studied it appears optimizers in most cases are not needed and do not add to the efficiency of the solar panels. Then by adding them you increase your install cost and have more things to break. I have a rapid shutdown scenario so I bought Tigo TS4-A-2F units that each can be used for two panels so that kept my cost lower than using optimizers.
I also am going with a Sol-ark 12k unit since I want to be able to power from the grid and have a charge controller for my 15Kwh lithium battery backup. I will not be selling power back to the utility since I don't want to hassle with all the BS required for that. Besides utilities are making it less advantageous to do that.
I live in Southern Cali and our rates are crazy high. Usually over 35 cents per KWh. I am on a time of use program where super off peak rates are 8 cents per Kwh. I charge our electric car during these periods and can use my battery to help fill in during my peak rate times.
Sounds like you have a great balanced solution. Your electrical rates are very high, that makes it easy to justify solar!
I see you never priced or used any Micro inverters I found used enphase inverters very cost effective and no string lose. Great work on the cost comparisons and I believe you ROI is right on. One other thing for electrical costing do you use the posted price per kwh or I actually use the cost divided by the kwh used because it is the actual cost as many utilities have added tax and delivery charges. Good luck Solar is the way to go.
Enphase inverters have always priced out to be the most expensive option in my investigations. Where did you find used Enphase inverters? As for the kWh rate, I use the total including tax minus the standard monthly connection fee, which is $47 for me.
@@ProjectsWithDave I believe they were on Craigslist but I no longer use it so Canadian Kijiji has quite a few but they are from individuals.
I've been planning to build a fold out "solar trailer" to get around permits, and possibly have for easy transport to emergency relief sites in need of immediate power options without a steady fuel supply, and this video is a good breakdown that will help me optimize the size of the trailer I need for the best cost. Thank you.
One big solar panel produces as much energy on a good day as 1 liter of fuel does in half an hour in a 40lb honda generator. Don't bother lugging it all around unless it's for a rental where noise is a factor (movie sets).
@@Thesaltyseafish I don't think you quite get the idea behind it. It wouldn't be "one" solar panel. It would be several, all mounted to a highly mobile and easily deployed trailer, possibly with integrated battery storage. It would also be intended for use in areas where getting fuel, and moving it around, is not only difficult, but could potentially be dangerous. It's also meant for long term relief, not just for a day or two.
For example, a relief tent set up at a town destroyed by a tornado, flood, earthquake, hurricane, or large scale fire. Places where people might be trying to get fuel from anywhere they can, even if that means taking it from relief workers by force.
Having a reliable source of power that is not likely to disturb relief efforts, won't take valuable fuel away from vehicles used in rescue efforts, and can be moved as needed without having to do more than fold it away, provides a valuable resource that can help in those situations. It can even be loaded onto a boat and quickly transferred if needed.
Sounds like a fun project. You should also check out Will Prowse channel, he has a lot of content that would help you with this idea.
@@ProjectsWithDave I have been watching his channel for a while now.
i was thinking along the same lines of using a large pontoon boat as a power base and putting 10 24 volt panels on top as a roof. we fish anyways so shade is nice on the lake.
extra bonus is plug the system into the house power when its parked in the driveway collecting bird poo lol
I went through the same analysis and arrived at an identical conclusion.
Interesting revelation is the panel degradation is dramatically lower compared to the rate at which our electric rates are increasing. In the end the annual year over year financial gain is positive.
Hopefully the surge in electric rates is not going to continue at this pace, meanwhile, it's making the case for solar easier.
Always learn more when I watch your videos! Subscribed! Thanks, J
Awesome! Thanks for the sub!
Partial shading will not much affect on the production of your system because the blocked block will be by-passed by diode. the lost is just 1~5% only.
Last summer I called santan solar and bought used 250 watt panels for $30 each but i bought 104 of them. You can easily make your racking out of wood to save money. I'm in off grid so I don't sell back to the grid, I have 86,000 watt hrs of lithium with 4- 240v inverters and a transformer. It's more expensive by far but when the power goes out everywhere else I have power. If your grid tied your not going to have any power, be sitting in the dark with the rest of em.
Thanks for sharing your system info. I'm considering a more cost effective middle ground, where I still have a grid connection, but have battery backup for emergencies. Are you completely disconnected from the grid, or do you have a connection in case you need extra power?
Could you cover what is the difference with a string inverter? And using either the string or the one that you installed, can you connect those to battery backup for outages?
Really great video. Love the idea at the end. Just going to put up solar at our house soon, this was very helful!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome work! Thanks for all your hard work
Thanks!
Absolutely awesome video, one of the best break down on costs have seen! Can you do an update to this with today's equipment and tax rebate.
Thanks! I'm testing some new equipment now. There are several Great new options on the market, but it will be a few months before I have a chance to compile all the information.
Love your video! But, this is just my opinion, what you paid AFTER your rebate, is what you can get a system for with some good lifepo4 batteries. To me the grid tied systems are a scam, the people selling them are really getting the rebate (of course if you do it yourself like you did, it's way better). Still, I know it's easier when using your 220 V central air and such, compared to batteries. My house is all propane for hot water, stove, and heat, we also have a wood stove that heats the whole house if the winter. Central air and the dryer are the only big pieces of equipment that we don't use our solar on. We didn't really do it to save money, just to use it each day, and when the power goes out, it's worth more than money. Here in WV we don't have too many outages but we seem to get more each year, and the way the world is going right now, I wouldn't take a million $$$ for my system. It works great! You have a great system set up!
Nice job! Thanks for the input! Of course my house is all electric, including winter heat so off grid is a pretty significant challenge. However, I intend to get there some day... : )
I also have an off grid system. I installed it myself. I have 12,000 watts of panels. I never use all of my energy produced. But I have natural gas for most of my major appliances. Water heater, stove, dreyer and fireplace insert. I still use some electric from the utility company. Some months when using more power from my mini splits during the winter. I only have 20,000 watts of battery back up. I could still unhook the grid power if needed. But the comfort is highly important. So we run the heat with our mini splits in the bedrooms.
If you do it right, you can get a 9kWh system for around $5,000.. Santan Solar has great deals on pallets of panels and you can get them for under $0.35 a watt.. That paired with Growatt or MPP hybrid inverters and a diy rack will get you there.. Then you can add some server rack battery backup for $300 a kWh...
DIY racking can save a lot if you can manage the inspection side of it.
@@ProjectsWithDave I would think a lot of people that have the space for ground mounts do not have codes or inspections. I know I don't.. That said, there is some DIY friendly racking that is UL listed like Iron Ridge that is also very cost effective.
do east facing secondry panals to get morning sun instead of west a lot of power is used in morning
The problem with due East and West is very poor performance in the winter. SSE or SSW seems to have a much better balance.
I love your analysis! thank you
I appreciate that!
Thank you
It’s crazy to look at how much prices have come down. Now in 2024 you can get brand new panels for $0.25 a watt.
Solar is The future
For sure !!
Hi, just a thought, if we are looking for extra winter power maybe the best orientation will not be due west but a lesser angle. At my location in the winter the sun does not get to due west. No significant difference on cloudy days but a gain when the sun shines.
My personal opinion is it is best to design for winter and the summer will look after itself but I am aiming for grid independance. I think my inclination would be to pick a point two or three weeks each side of the winter solstice and aim at mid/late afternoon sun.
Just a few approximate figures people might find interesting. They are calculated figures for my the location of my property about 59° latitude 30miles or so east of Greenwich. It not practical to have independent racking, all my panels need to be mounted on the structures.
I have used the European research centre for the calculations which take into account average weather conditions at your specified location which includes cloud cover and temperature (PVGIS). They provide calculations for the whole world but I am not sure if you can access it from outside the EU.
Approx calculated average figures for december and january
South+14° wall, ave daily output 1kw per kw of solar panel optimum pitch approx 19°.
East +14° facing roof pitch 18°: 0.25kw/kw of panel, E+14° wall 0.5kw/kw of panel, optimum angle approx 47/48°.
Yes the east roof produces a little more total annual power but much less in winter.
Thanks for sharing your investigation. I agree, if you are looking to go off grid, and you live towards the north, it is best to design for maximum winter time output. The early data from my west facing test rig shows that since there is very little clipping in the winter, it would be better to have the panels facing south. Once I get the full data, I'll bring the analysis here for everyone's reference. Thanks!
good thorough videos, thanks for all the work and help! and for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Top to bottom
Self installed...25Kw solar array... 25Kw split phase charge controller/inverter system...30Kw FLA battery storage... less than $30,000. $1.20/watt
Off-grid, low maintenance
Why hire labor for a plug n play system
Freedom is included
Very nice video. I am interested in solar panels here in Texas without the micro inverters or optimizers as I am a Ham Radio operator and there is significant noise produced by these items. Even some MPPT solar controllers are bad in that respect. So for portable solar you have to do your research. Again, thanks for your video. Used panels was a surprise to me. Have me thinking now.
Thanks for the info on Ham Radio interference. If you want to reduce your interference, you may want to consider putting the inverter out with the solar racking instead of at the house. This will require larger conductors running to the house because of the lower voltage, but it may help with your interference by increasing the distance to your antenna and giving you more opportunity for shielding against the noise. Keep doing your research, I'm sure you will find the right solution for you. : )
@@ProjectsWithDave sure thing. I saw a UA-cam video where they tracked down radio interference from the neighbors house a few hundred feet away. The solar panels were using the solar edge optimizers I think. I will try to get some real tests done with different solar setups. They used a mag loop antenna to go around the neighborhood to isolate the noise. With a loop antenna you can make the noise go away when you twist that antenna. This gives you the direction the noise is coming from.
Note: I am not trying to tell you have the wrong setup. I am just exploring and asking the ham radio and ham questions. Thanks for taking time to respond. I like your channel and I still want to put in my own solar system. All. The best.
Great info! Looking forward to seeing your final plan.
This is a great video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I would go micro inverters like enphase (each 1 or 2 panels has a dc to ac inverter) as I prefer per solar panel monitoring they are also firefighter safe (it is the with solaredge as each module drops to under 1v if inverter grid power is lost or there is a brake in the string) but you have 2 points of failure with solaredge dc to dc power optimizers and the inverter) technically you have per panel
a string system that looks at the whole system only (can't see individual solar panel status and dc string is always live and not firefighter safe)
if using sunnyboy make sure shade fix is enabled (if you have a old sunyboy inverter update your firmware and enable it might be called something els in the settings)
Your proposals make sense for a roof mount, but firefighting shouldn't be an issue with a ground mount system. The goal of this video was to show low cost options, Enphase is nice solution, but it is the most expensive to install and has the greatest line losses between the house and the array due to it's low operating voltage.
If you are going to compare it to an investment you have to include depreciation of the solar system. At the end of an investment the principal along with earned interest are all available.
I have a solar system so I'm not against solar.
That's valid, what formula would you propose?
Batteries i found was the biggest crunch
Hey Dave, great videos! I'm just starting to plan my PV project and your videos have given me the best information by far! I was a little surprised by your power consumption of 24,000 kwh per year until you said you're using geothermal. Can you estimate how much of that your geothermal heat pump uses? What's the square footage of your house and how well is it insulated? I'll be building a new home next year with 2,400 sq.ft. which will be very well insulated, if necessary using geothermal. Depending on that I will calculate the PV system size. Thanks for you content.
My house is ICF construction, It has 2,400 finished square feet, but the basement is also conditioned. A month with very little heat or AC I like October, I consume about 1,144kWh. You can get more detail from my 1year review video: ua-cam.com/video/BatTeSq05rU/v-deo.html
And from my video on sizing your solar array: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html
Thanks!
Thank You Dave
So many questions about batteries! Batteries are a huge expense, folks. If you want or need to go off grid, you are going to pay a huge premium for that. It will blow your payback period into decades. Or else you will have to live with a severe power limitation because you don't have enough. And then there's also replacement cost, since they don't last all that long when you cycle them every day. One thing that makes sense is to heat all your domestic water, and maybe even space heating with hot water panels. Very easy to DIY such panels, heat storage tanks, etc.
I have never seen used panels for sale that were cheaper per watt than new panels.
i would not use optimizers unless your panels are shaded they say new panels have diodes to help with shading how much is optimiser $80 each nearly price of another inverter
Great info. Thanks for providing this. For future videos, music is absolutely not necessary.
Noted! I received that feedback multiple times and you will see my more recent videos have little to no background music. Thanks!
look at it another way.
how about basing it on MPPT. Maximum power point tracking is a relatively new technology and basing the solar panel and output on MPPT is another option. Of course you have inverters but focus on DC into the MPPT.
so, solar panels, MPPT, and battery.
you would focus on VOC accuracy and wire size since winter and summer power is different and effects the power output.
an MPPT of 150/ 30 would be 3 panels of max power of 44.7 volts and 9 amps of 9 identical panels, 3 in series and 3 groups in parallel. This would be going into one MPPT.
you can use your cheap used 400 watt panels.
the MPPT will determine the power storage in the battery so the more battery the better. Take total watt of your array and multiply by 5 for battery KWh. Some MPPT only use input from serial string panels, most MPPT from serial and parallel.
Most newer quality string inverters have multiple MPPT inputs. As you said the key to optimal performance is matching the ideal voltage and current capability of each MPPT input rather than the inverter base spec.
I would think that you would get the most facing the auxiliary panels if they are facing south east and south west. Maybe another test after the auxiliary panels facing east and west
Yes, based on the data I have so far I was considering doing that.
Great video!
What I wonder though why batteries are not part of this total cost - or are you operating without batteries and in the night you are using grid power?
Right. I use the grid as the battery. It's much cheaper.
Subscribed! You're absolutely right!
Thanks!
Excellent Job! Very Thorough! Thank You! (I just found your channel) Liked !
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Dave, i have 20kwt solar system for sell electricity, and now building 6*580W jinko panels for my home with hydrid Usful 5.5 kwt inverter- thanks for your video. I want to share with you Ukranian dude’s video where he explain phisical process, why it is necessary to use East and West sites. Use google translate-it is on russian, so you do your own detail video about this effect
ua-cam.com/video/zB2GpJ09GT4/v-deo.htmlsi=R-2h_HwiVQxS_WzZ
Great information Dave....thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing the analysis and data for me. I do not reinventing a wheel. How are prices since a year ago now? Higher or lower? It is now Q4 of 2022, lots of new hardware and systems on the market and new tax credit coming in 2023. I am going to presume I need 12KW system on a ground array.
1, Does it matter if hardware is US made or someplace else to obtain the tax credit? 2. It seems like it may be best to go with largest/highest output panel (used if they exist in supply chain) to reduce rack size, cost, footprint? Is this your point? vs use of smaller less powerful panels that would take many more panels to do the same power output.
3. So you did not use micro-inverters (correct term?) on each panel, i have seen claim that some micro inverter allow two panels/ micro inverter. Do they help with system failure/maintenance? and also do the newer micro inverters reduce "clipping" of the overall panel system output?
My original install used optimizers, but this is an expensive solution. I did a recent install on my shed using micro inverters that is working very well ( Shed install video: ua-cam.com/video/Y8OGxdJ9cU8/v-deo.html ). Panel output vs array size is just something you have to balance for your install.
Thks, this had been my plan/hope for a few years & you've help me along the way ; !DIY Rules!
??Oh where did you find the used U/L solar panels from (I want to go grid-tied)??
You can get used UL listed panels from SanTan solar. Just purchase the ones that still have the original manufacture's label. You can see their latest options from my affiliate link here: ( store.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=EverydayDave )
Also Linda's contact information is in the description if you are looking for pallet pricing on larger orders.
Really informative. I think the only real concern with second hand panels is what kind of life expectancy they have left? Does the performance drop off at some point? I guess it's hard to get real world figures for that unless the same panel has been in production for a good long time.
Panels typically have a steady degradation curve. You could always check the historical performance of panels from the same brand and type for reference.
Yeah, even 20 yr panels should still produce 80% of original, most likely more like 90% depending on how hot/cold the area is. I have some 2000 era model bp solar panels which are 51 watts each, they still produce over 40w.
Great info as usual. Would vertically-oriented, bi-facial panels serve the same purpose as 2 sets of east-west panels, at lower cost?
One bifacial is significantly less than the cost of two standard panels. But you would get better performance with your proposal.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. You are still applying the 26% rebate even when you include USED panels in your scenarios. Doesn't the rebate only apply to equipment not previously put into service?
I suggest consulting your tax advisor for what qualifies in your individual situation.
power cost in Phx az were 21 cents about 5 years ago, I bet they are higher along with the govt mess in CA
That would just about cut your payback time in half!
Hi Dave, thanks for your video, after watching many videos on solar panels, I have found yours to be the most useful. I have a question or two for you. I haven't purchased anything yet, and am still trying to understand string inverters and how they are set up. I think at this point my ultimate goal is to set up a grid tie system in the 7,8, or 9 kw range. Question #1. When you arrange your panels in series or parallel, how many panels can you put in each series or unit. I should probably ultimately have 25 or 30 panels. Question #2. When pricing new units what should I keep in mind regarding the amperage of each unit? Thanks for your assistance. Randy
The answer to these questions are all driven by the inverter you choose. If you are going to do a string inverter with no optimizers, you want string together as many panels as possible and still stay under the max voltage of the input for your inverter. For instance if you have a 600V max input on your inverter and your panels have a max voltage of 37VDC you could make two strings of 16 panels each and stay within that limit. As far as amperage, each series string will match the max amperage of the panel you choose. If you use a SunnyBoy inverter with a max usable input amperage of 10A, and your panels have a max current of 12A, you will see some clipping, but that is ok. Sorry, it isn't a simple answer. I'm considering making a video to explain how to choose inverters and panels.... some day when I have more time : )
The first thing you do is plan the amount of panels you can fit on your destination. If you building a rack, you have to decide on a size. After that you select the exact panels and have the quantity, you check the datasheet and plan you strings for your choosen inverter. Most manufacturers have tools, where you can put in the exact model of panel you want to use and the quantity and they will present you the best fitting Inverter. For the SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 (US Version) the max Input Voltage is 600V. You habe 3 independend MPPT Trackers / Inputs, so you want to use 3 Strings. If you use 72Cell (or 144half cell) Panels in the 360-380WP Range, most of them will habe a maximum short circuit power below 50V (it´s a little difficult to calculate, because the maximum short circuit voltage depends on the temperature of the panel and can be higher than the given value in the datasheet at lower temperatures. In this case the maximum amount of panels per string would be 12 (x3 =36 max for this Inverter). If you stay in the range of 8-9kwp with your panels and all of them are looking in the same direction (south), you could string 2x12. 2 longer Strings are better than 3 shorter Strings. But, you also could build (for example) 10 Panels East - String/MPPT 1, 10 Panels South - String MPPT 2 and 10 Panels West - Sting MPPT 3, which would give you 11400WP, but because of the 3 different directions, the panels will have slightly different peak times and you can use you inverter more efficent.
@@Thorsten_Wiegand if the inverter is 7.7kw and all panels look at the same direction how can you install 8-9kw?there is no danger to blow the inverter?
@@audiophilesland969 : Hello. The rated power of the modules is the peak power (in this example it´s 8-9kwp). That means, that this much power is only generated in optimal conditions (cold modules and full sun directly in the perfect angle). Most of the time (~99%) you won´t get that much power. The inverter in my example is rated for a maximum PC-input power of ~11-12kw. That means he can handle that much power from the modules without a problem. (All PV-Inverters are like that. In most cases you can go ~20-30% over the rated outputpower - you have to look that up in the tech-sheet). For Clarification: The Output of the Inverter won´t go higher than the rated 7.7kw. He will simply cut evertything above 7.7kw and it will be lost. But because the time, when the PV-Modules deliver their absolute peak power is very limited, you won´t loose much.
@@Thorsten_Wiegand thanks for the answer.i have a sunnyboy rated for 1550w output and 1850w max input I have only 1500watts array.i guess I can safely add one more panel
Thanks for the info my guy!
You bet!
great video !!... appreciate the info.
Thanks for watching!
An East/West array produces nearly as much energy as a South facing array. This is due to the Sun hitting the face of the panels longer during the day. The Solar generation curve is indeed widened and flattened out. Additionally, your array produces energy earlier and later in the day because the panels are facing directly into the Sun. My Electric company (in FL) is even trying to get people to install West facing panels because, here in Florida, there is so much A/C demand that having West facing panels can really make a big difference. I think more Electric companies will begin installing East/West , fixed mount, systems to reduce the LCOE and many might begin installing extra West facing panels to better match their demand curve.
Thanks for that information! Do you have any articles or documents you can share on where you got your information? I'm always looking for actual data. Thanks!
It is not true that East or West facing panels produce the same as South facing ones. The main reason is that the East-West facing panels ignore the sunlight till the sun is at a degree higher than the tilt. Since keeping a flat panel is not recommended due to accumulation of dust and washing problems, a small tilt, say of 10 degrees is a must. This means the panels will simply not work for 1/9th of a day and work at a very low intensity for another good length of the day till the sunrays make sufficiently straight contact with the panels. On an average, expect a loss of 1/6th of the energy generation in comparison to south facing panels
@@shrujanamsyama9940 I never said that East/West facing panels produced the same amount of energy as South facing panels, I said "Nearly as much". I believe when you consider the low angle of the Sun during Winter months which reduce the effectiveness of South facing panels, and the fact that an East/West array will not be effected by the Sun's lower angle, the East/West array will produce nearly as much energy as the South facing array. Your point of an East/West array producing 1/6th less energy is reasonable, however, I think the energy reduction is less than 1/6th (perhaps 50% less than your 1/6th figure).
@@ProjectsWithDave I could swear that I answered this question when you asked it, however, it seems to not have been properly recorded. I don't have the original article that I first read about East/West arrays, but a quick Google search for East/West Solar arrays will bring up a good number of articles for your research.
@@bbcooter388 Even during winters, the sun is still in the south (assuming you are in North hemisphere) and south facing panel serves the best. Only for those people who are on the equator, the east/west facing panels may perform somewhat close to south facing panels. For everyone in North Hemisphere above 10 degree latitude, it is decisively south facing panels which is the best. Similarly, everyone below 10 degree South Latitude, North facing is decisively best.
Thanks
facing panels east and west is not a new thing we do it all the time in off grid to flatten the curve and level production as very few people use peak power at noon. also starting to do it more on grid tie when the utility company changed its buy back policy. her in sask they give you 1kwh for every 2kwh you give them so face the panels east and west to flatten the curve and make it larger in the morning and evening so more is consumed by the customer and less if fed back to grid for a higher return.
Thanks for your information. So much of solar is dependent on your physical location and the incentives or lack of incentives provided by your local government or utility. I like to collect data for myself and give people another data point to work with. : )
Video with the "Build Back Better Rebates" 30%, 40% if USA made, and 50% for low incomes would be interesting. I am holding off to see if it passes.
In the mid term you can do your research and planning. Good Luck!
Unfortunately for those of us that are retired the tax "rebate" Doesn't work as we generally do not have the taxes to get the rebate from. A true rebate would be a great thing for us and quite the incentive to go solar!
That’s a good point. If you want to have solar to supplement your expenses in retirement, it makes the most sense to install it while you are still working to take advantage of the tax incentives.
Diy baby! all the way!!!!
Most of the people watching these videos are either putting in a system or already have one. I put in a system that I thought I needed. But the reality was that it’s oversized. So now since I am retiring soon. I am considering buying an electric car. So I can charge it during the day.
I did a video on why I chose the size system that I installed to maximize return on investment. You can watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html
Also, if you are considering an electric car, I discuss some related options in this video: ua-cam.com/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/v-deo.html
Thanks!
Need to get a little deeper into these systems. The 530 watt panels will not work with the Sunnyboy which has a max 10 amp input.
I’m starting a system with two SMA 7.7 and 48 380 watt Q Cells my cost $20,000.
Thanks for pointing out the amperage limitations of the SunyBoy system. However, according to their design software the system can handle the higher input, it just limits the input current to 10A resulting in a 2.17% loss. The 18 panels is a bit overpower for the system and it would be better to just use 17 panels which would also match the 9kW of the other system comparisons I made. If what you are saying is true, even the system you planning would not work as the 380W Q cells put out 10.5A. If you have some information showing it can't handle the input, or the SMA design software is in error, please let me know. Thanks!
Here is a link to the design software results: ( drive.google.com/file/d/11rEOtXr7y6K_gpgGOpmtrspattXJzVLG/view?usp=sharing )
Here is the best information I have found. Sorry it didn’t paste. SMA stated the max fuse is 12.8 amp per MPP.
I called SMA to confirm your concern. The spec sheet shows a maximum short circuit current of 18A. The system will only utilize up to 10A, but it can handle up to an 18A input. Since the JA Solar 530W panels are 12.8A they are well within the system limitations. See the spec sheet here: drive.google.com/file/d/1YaPrmoqx_wlnVeV_pSad8lgbbBSymkZN/view?usp=sharing
Hope that helps. Thanks!
Thanks for the info yours is one of the first videos I use to start my system. I wish I had known I could use the larger panels it would have saved me a lot. Here is the tech note that had me worried.
TECHNICAL NOTE
Topic: DC Input Current Ratings for Sunny Boy Inverters
SUMMARY
The technical data in the SMA product data sheets is specified for nominal operating conditions. The specified DC maximum input current refers to the actual continuous input current recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system.
DC INPUT CURRENT RATINGS FOR SUNNY BOY SYSTEMS
The DC maximum input current specified in the Sunny Boy product data sheets refers to the actual continuous input current recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system.
Due to the common Maximum Power Point (MPP) characteristics of the inverter input, the inverter will not be able to find the optimal power point if the current is outside of the specified range. In that case, losses in energy yield can occur. However, the inverter will not be affected if the short circuit current of the connected PV modules exceeds the specified value. The following table shows the DC input current specifications of the Sunny Boy US-type inverters as well as the respective short circuit current of the connected PV strings (considering 125% NEC factor). These values are recommended for an optimum energy yield of the system:
Inverter model
SB 3000US
SB 4000US
SB 5000US
SB 6000US
SB 7000US
Rated DC maximum input current IMP
(continuous)
17 Amp
18 Amp
21 Amp
25 Amp
30 Amp
Maximum short circuit current of connected PV strings ISC
(considering 125% NEC factor)
22 Amp
23 Amp
27 Amp
32 Amp
36 Amp
In addition, the current limitations for any system with SMA Sunny Boy inverters SB 3000US, SB 4000US, SB 5000US, SB 6000US and SB 7000US with respecitive SMA DC Disconnect model are defined by the physical current limitations of the DC disconnect and the integrated string fuses:
» The maximum string fuse rating of the SMA DC disconnect unit is 20 Amp. The NEC requires that all fuses and wiring be sized for a minimum of 1.56 times the ISC of the PV module used in the system. Consequently, the maximum short circuit current per string can be up to 12.8 Amp.
» The maximum operating current of the DC disconnect unit (all parallel strings combined) is 34 Amp. If there are additional questions or if further clarification is needed, please refer to the inverter
manual or contact technical support at SMA America, LLC.
SMA America, LLC
6020 West Oaks Blvd, Ste 300 Rocklin, CA 95765
+1 916 625 0870 Service@SMA-America.com
TechNSBDcINPU-hUS112912
Crazy to think new 550w solar panels are now $150 each 👀
Cant wait for the data video
It will be a while, I have to collect data till some time in July. : )
For the money you are saving DIY you can afford to buy a couple of the new LifePo4 server rack battery systems and be able to cut the grid.
That would not be sufficient to allow me to drop my gird connection, I plan to do a video in the future to explain why. In short, my largest consumption by far is in the winter when my geothermal system is heating my house. That is also when my solar production is the lowest. I would need a much larger array along with batteries to close the gap.
Hi Dave,
This is very nice spreadsheet.
One question I need your answer, why there is no budget to have Battery to store excess energy generated during daytime, so, those could be use during night time ?
SY
The system I installed is grid-tie only. It does not require a battery. Batteries add a lot of cost that is very hard to recover. The grid acts like the battery. If you have net metering, it is the lowest cost solution for installing solar. You can see more on how it works for me in this video: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html
He was going on Federal 26% tax credit. Your state and electric companies may also do tax credits. You have to check your area.
By the way great video
That's right! Your area may have additional incentives that make the return even better.
@@ProjectsWithDave yes sir I enjoyed the video and if I have info will add. Truly enjoy your video’s keep it up getting the word out on solar
Thanks!
Is this a grid tied system with net metering? Are there any good rack mounting options with adjustable inclinations to optimize by season?
Yes, if you want adjustable I would consider Sinclair : sinclair-designs.com/solar-ground-mounts
I'm not affiliated with them, but I have friends that have used the racking and are happy with it.
Someone tell you, you CAN NOT take the tax credit on used solar panels?
It isn't allowed since it would allow for double dipping on the tax credit. Only all new materials.
At least that was the situation back in 2011-2012 when I did my last system.
Love Santan, love using these retired solar farm panels. Sometimes it's not the cheapest options.
Used panels don't make sense for every situation, but they are a great option for the right application and it keeps them out of the landfill.
@@ProjectsWithDave I agree, you just can NOT take a tax credit on them!
How would Tesla solar panels cost compare here?
I have not evaluated Tesla panels, but I listed the cost of the panels shown in this analysis, so you can easily compare for yourself. Thanks
Thank you for the great video Dave Dave. Could you please tell me the model number on that 530 W half cut JAsolar panel that you referenced in this video? I can’t seem to find it. Super helpful 0:05 and again thank you
Thanks! That panel was a clearance panel SanTan happened to have on sale at the time. There is a good deal on a similar 540W panel, here's a link: www.santansolar.com/product/new-canadian-solar-540w-solar-panel-pallet-of-30/?ref=EverydayDave
The goal of the video wasn't necessarily to have you purchase those exact materials, but understand the process to determine what makes the most sense for you.
In the long run, isn't new panel will be more efficient than used panels? To correct the comparison, it would be nice to see maintenance cost between new and used panel?
Great information. Thanks.
It all comes down to cost/watt. There should not be a significant difference in maintenance. In general panels slowly degrade at a mostly linear rate. With used panels, you are just picking them up part way down the usage curve. For instance a used panel rated at 230W will should be treated like purchasing a new 200W panel.
No
Great information!!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
A couple questions, where is the battery costs or are you just using the system during the day?
What about a solar tracker, why not use one? I know you said you are getting clipping, but i mean if we design it so we get no clipping and then it will make more sense to use the solar tracker. But i would say to invent a tracker that turns the panels themselves instead of trying to use a tracker that has to turn the entire rack, this way it will require less energy to move them therefore it will take less expensive motor and bearings.
I use the grid as my battery, it is way cheaper than battery solutions currently available (watch this video on net metering: ua-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/v-deo.html ) I have yet to find a tracker that could pay for itself. Especially with used panels, it is more cost effective to just add additional panels to achieve your power target.
Great video. What would the cost be if you were to use micro-inverters, and add the cost off energy storage, aka battery? Batterys are expensive, and to get off grid, you'll need storage. For grid tied systems, I have a question, again, I would go with micro-inverters, not sold on a battery at this point, but see cost savings for energy, but big install costs. Most companies recommend systems in the 13kw, 15kw, 17kw, and state this is for annual usage, my question is "Why not install a 9kw system that easily exceeds my monthly usage would eliminate my energy bill, and would cost far less than $30k - $40k?" I don't understand why they sell on an annual basis, but electric bill is monthly, so to me cover monthly. And annual will take care of itself. Thx.
In my opinion you need to look at it from a monthly perspective. Check out this video on sizing your solar system, it give some perspective on why analysis by the month is critical: ua-cam.com/video/rbFnZqA0GCI/v-deo.html
Wow, your new panels are about 75% more expensive that what we pay for it in South Africa. Direct exchange rate calculated.
Nice! It should be much easier for you to justify solar!
@@ProjectsWithDave Not only because of the price but also because of our corrupt government who is in control of our electricity supply and the whole country has "load shedding" and have no power between 4 to 8 hours every day. Here and now, as I am writing this, we have no grit power in my area for 2 hours. That happens between 2 to 4 times daily and many times 4 hours without electricity. ua-cam.com/video/41iwlsxrQTE/v-deo.html And that was just a weekly report. That is going on all the time, up and down.
Years ago when this government took over, we had the best electricity supply in the world. They said it was enough and stopped planning ahead and corruption and theft took over. No more expansion of power generation took place.
Wow... what a mess...
@@ProjectsWithDave Jip. And they just announced stage 7 load shedding. That means up to 12 hours a day without grit power. 👺
Does nobody pay it out right ?
I’m looking for at least 30,000 watts off grid
For 3 houses a few barns etc basically a farm
Good morning Dave- I'm learning so much from your channel- currently waiting on the utility company to get back w/ me, i've already gotten the application from the city to begin we are here just south of you in KY- I just picked up the 7600 inverter I spoke w/ you about, it was only $700 and was mfg in 2020 so I feel confident that was a good deal, If I'm looking at optimizers used should I stay with a minimum of a P400 even though my panels will be in the 315-320 range for my 1st setup/ or I just saw P600 do they do 2 panels and if so at $64 each on ebay would that be the way to go- I think panel wise I can get into the 300's I don't thin I want to put up and 240's just for the cost of the system- My only doubt w/ the system was that I thought about making my own racking and feel that my city might have to have PE drawings on them so I"ve reached out to the mfg you used, is there a disocunt code you had w/ them?? Oh- last question any reason to go w/ the EV plug on the inverter besides efficiency, i'm running 9cents a KW and my house that I am building is 2k one level w/ basement ICF on both levels, I figure my utility to be about 2/3 of what yours is - why not just add a plug off the 200 amp breaker, if not I plan to add a third arrary to make me net neutral I'd probably be able to find me a solar edge 3800 w/ the ev plug on it for about a grand- thanks so much for the advice, hopefully i'll piece together my parts over the next few months and install around Christmas, currently they have my footers poured and should have my ICF in this week for the foundation pour- best regards,
Wow, you have a lot going on. As for the EV charger, I would just find a good deal on a level II charger, it will probably be less than the cost of the SolarEdge cable and you can mount it wherever you like. (here is a video on my EV connection installation: ua-cam.com/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/v-deo.html ) Make sure whatever optimizer you choose works with your inverter. Be careful with the Ebay optimizers, I have bought a few that way that didn't work. Two panels per optimizer will save you quite a bit, just make sure the clipping impact is not too significant. If the panels are only 300W you should be ok. Call Ready Rack and tell them Everyday Dave sent you, and ask for a discount. I don't have an affiliate relationship with them so I don't actually have any leverage, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Wow 😮 Great video! 👏👏👏👏
Thank you! 😃
Dave, I have one other question. If the power goes out can you switch to your solar panels? My wife says that if the grid goes down you can't use your solar panels.
She is correct, my system will only produce power when the grid is on, most grid tie systems work that way unless you have a separate battery backup system which adds significant cost. But technology is changing! The newer SMA Sunnyboy inverters have the option of attaching an outlet that can provide some power when the grid is down as long as the sun is shinning ( see an old vide on the technology here: ua-cam.com/video/fF461YYNbtw/v-deo.html ). Also the new Enphase 8 that just came out can provide power when the gid is down and the sun is shining (see that technology here: ua-cam.com/video/wK950rn6HVw/v-deo.html )