Went looking for distilling videos, but your channel caught my eye, and now, I know a whole lot more about Electric Brewing! So just had to get into brewing as well, because you really make it approachable Brian. Really enjoy your videos, even when you think they are a bit long, still informative. How about a series of short one minute videos answering common questions? Thanks Brian!
Great information, great presentation, great to see Anvil is watching the mods being done. You knock videos out of the park in your own way, and it is always a pleasure to see new content! Thank you!
Yeah that would be fine there I imagine. It's when you get into more confined spaces the the steam can be more of an issue. Listing condenser is not a solution for everyone but there certainly is a place for it and some people's process. 👍🍻
Thanks for sharing. I might have to build one in the future for my 20 gallon Boilmaker from Blichmann Engineering. I brew in the garage right now and don't really have a problem with the steam. I also cut the power down to about 70% and still have a nice rolling boil when brewing. Cheers!
Always looking forward to your videos Brian. I'm a garage brewer so I have enough ventilation but this is handy video to reference for Anvil if I ever need one.
Great vid. I also use the DIY brun dog condenser. I collect the water in 2 buckets (about 10 gallons similar to you) and then just park the buckets in the bathroom and flush the toilet with them for the next week or so. No water wasted :)
Oh cool, I was looking at the Brewtools condenser until this video made me realize I have almost all the parts from a experimental RIMS tube I dabbled with before!
Excellent video, my DYI condenser is mounted on the side of the kettle,(BIAB) and works well, I might change mine to mount onto the lid of the kettle. Well explained as usual, thanks very much for the video. Paul
Haven't gone the route of getting an all-in-one system yet (still brewing either on the stove top or outdoors on a propane burner) but this "hack" for the all-in-ones makes a lot of sense and would likely cost a lot less than a very large hood and powerful exhaust fan. The aroma from brewing is ok by me (and my wife) but the moisture build up, especially if I want to brew in the basement (live in a bungalow) is something I would be concerned with. Great information in this video and I look forward to seeing your videos each Sunday morning! Cheers!
Great video. Ive always just had three buckets one fills and pull it out and refill the bucket with the pump and replace that one with the empty bucket and back and forth. Only using about 4 gallons of water. Never seen anyone on line doing this. I have the spike Version.
I’ve never really been too concerned about boil off while brewing in my mechanical room. I live in CO and the humidity in the winter is 35% and summer 50%. I actually run a whole home humidifier all winter to keep the humidity where it is. Been brewing about 8 times a year for 4 years like this and no problems. I am upgrading from a Grainfather to a 240v Clawhammer so I will watch my boil off rate and may have to throw a box fan in front of the window down there.
Thanks for sharing that idea, Brian. It looks like a fun build. You’d have to modify your process for hopping if you use a Hop Spider 🕷 (easy fix), and coordination for sanitizing a pump/CFC. It’s kind of ironic you posted this topic when you did, not only for Anvil’s announcement, but because of a brew I did yesterday. I changed my brew process so I’m closer to a sink (away from my normal venting window) and used a 30 min boil to reduce steam build up. (The proximity to the sink made things so much more pleasant. No more stiff garden hoses across the bar top, knocking pictures and glasses and stuff to the floor). This condenser would be a cool addition to the brewery for long boils, but for a 30 min boil, you’d get to use it for maybe 15 min? As usual, great video 🍻🤓
Make sure you get the brass spray nozzle. I started with the stainless one and it’s 416 not 316 so is not very resistive to rust. And the brass is cheaper from memory.
I`ve just fitted a 2" bulkhead for an extension to a t500 it covers the load better with the extension, I built a condenser on a 1/2 inch fitting on the side wall of my Keggle yet to give it a full test to see if it will draw enough.
Yeah if the 2-in pipe fittings and everything weren't as expensive as they are. I was trying to keep the price down on this I definitely would have gone with a 2-in bulkhead and 2-in tubing. Definitely let me know how that works out on your keggke!!
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yeah cost is a thing even from china, I`ve done a 3" to 1.5 for the hop dropper on my brewmaster as a 3" sight glass and valve would be expensive.
Huh? I was apparently pretty busy in September as I haven't seen this vidya either. The vidyas I want to see I miss. Being a tester at heart I wouldn't normally miss something like this. Cheers
Hey Brian, great video as usual. I have a similar setup but I built a liebig condenser out of copper tube. Works great and allows you to recirculate the water.
I have a non-brewing application where I actually want the fluid going back into the pot. You mentioned that if the nozzle was place behind the "T" opening that it would travel back. Can you provide more information on this or direct me where I could learn more how to do this.
Im trying to minimize the loss of the distilled water I'm using. Right now it steams off so much its a full time job replenishing the water. The objective is to capture (condense) and recirculate back int the pot@@ShortCircuitedBrewers
Brian, outstanding video for the all-in-one brewers!!! You had also commented on a possible option to connect this design to the "side" of a kettle. I have a kettle that is 23 gallons max, but boil around 17 gallons. Aside from hot break management, do you think a "side exit" (and a standard kettel lid) for the steam to travel will be effective enough to obtain good results?
Yep the designer of the original has a 20 gallon boilermaker and it works fine I recommend this bulkhead to attach it to a standard kettle. amzn.to/3z2wY7h
I just hooked the pump to the input with the high pressure hose to the condenser and dropped the pickup hose into the reservoir..there is an arrow on the pump indicating flow direction. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ah..I was thinking it was a separate recirculating for cooling the condensate. I just got the Solo+, your pump isn’t submersible like the Solo setup?
I did some searching around take a look at this lid it has just over a 18-in total outside diameter but it looks like it has a pretty good step down from the outer diameter to the lip that sits on the kettle it might be the right size! www.webstaurantstore.com/vigor-18-5-8-stainless-steel-replacement-lid-for-60-qt-stock-pot/473SSCOVR10.html
Loved it! I was wondering about the hot break. I left my on from mash out to boil. The hot break always puzzled me why it is particularly more intensive. I would open my 4" glass panel but even that the hot break goes from nothing to full out vocanoe mode so fast. I will try leaving off lid until after hot break as you suggest which make complete sense. I was wondering about the pressure that builds up how that migh effect the brew process. Any thoughts?
There's not really any pressure. It actually creates a vacuum with the sprayer running. Not a huge amount but it is negative pressure in the kettle. 👍🍻
Thanks for another great video! Question for Brian or anyone else: Compared to a steam condenser or the condensation hood, how well does a 400 CFM vent hood work for electric brewing? In my case, the duct to the outdoor would be only about 2 feet long, but I wonder if there would be too much condensation in the duct. Any thoughts?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers @Short Circuited Brewers Currently, there is a 6" diameter duct. From what I have read on HVAC charts, a 10" to 12" diameter might be needed for 300-400
@@chris.kriese I have a 460 cfm vortex fan with 6" ductwork on my brewing hood. There is definitely condensation that builds up but it does exhaust 95% of the steam. Hope that helps.
You could use a tall hop spider and set it on the bottom. You would take the condenser off to put your immersion chiller in. I don't put it in for 15 minutes you can wait until 5 or 10 minutes, if you are keeping you immersion chiller clean and spray it with a little star San solution before dropping it in. 👍🍻
Hey brian...I'm in the process of setting up my basement brewery and was curious about your hood vent... buying a custom one is pretty pricey..any info would be greatly appreciated
I built it from wood. Used marine paint on the inside to seal it and a vortex fan connected to the side with ac ducting. A steam condenser is a way cheaper option the vortex fan that loves the right amount of air is over $100 by itself.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I appreciate that response...the hood vent is better for me to accommodate all my brewing setups. I worried about protecting the wood but marine paint should do the trick...thanks again
I have a still made from 2inch tri clamp pipe so I just rig it up on top of the robobrew and use it like a stripping run. Works a treat but the smell of it is not good at all. Fermcap prevents any boil over. Is there a reason people use this spray method as opposed to a condenser from a still?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ok. Thanks. I’ve done a few brews this way and haven’t noticed anything off about them but for the sake of a tee piece and spray nozzle to upgrade what I have I’ll give it a go. Cheers
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers How does the spray method work any different from a traditional condenser? In both cases nothing is really restricting the output of the boiling process. I could see a difference if you were using a deflag on a column and sending the vapor back down the column, but I would think you could pack it with copper and strip a lot of the DMS.
@@jtracy54 the spray creates a vacuum that pulls the steam and DMS out. You don't want any liquid condensing, or as little as possible condensing and falling back into the kettle otherwise you may not remove all of the DMS. A condenser just doesn't create a vacuum to ensure that all of the DMS is removed. 👍🍻
Wondering if I could build something like this for my Brewbuilt kettle on my herms system? I am currently fighting with steam in my brew house and it will be very difficult to install a hood.
For sure!! Just put a weldless bulkhead in the side of the kettle and then attach just the tee and spray assembly. Will take care of your issue for sure! 👍🍻
Does the brewzilla and foundry have the same size hole on the stainless steel lid? I have a brewzilla and got the steam slayer but a 1.5 tri clamp bulkhead from Amazon but it is wobbly like you showed in the video. The bulkhead by anvil looks like it solves that problem but there are no dimensions on the hole size so I can compare. Thanks.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the video. The Amazon one is being returned and I ordered the anvil one. I was looking for a bulkhead tri clamp that would be more secure instead of having to buy a 2” TC bulkhead and reducer. Glad I found this. Awesome video!
Well those don't remove enough DMS with the reflux action. The spray nozzle creates a vacuum that pull the steam off of the boil. It's not without some reflux but it removes the DMS
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Cool! I just bought a B40 hood to my Brewzilla since I thought i couldn't use a steam condenser. But. How do you add the hop additions with the Brewzilla lid? It doesn't have a second valve like the Anvil or Brew Tools system. Won't you become steamed like a dumpling if you just open the lid to throw them in?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Nice! I just canceled my order of the steam hat so I can get a steam condenser instead. Thanks for your help and the good timing of your video.
Hello everybody, Can you guide me where is a website where I can get the formulas to help me determine the size of the parts for the condenser? The tank I am currently using has an 11 kW immersion heater. This approach seems to solve my problem. Thank you all in advance for your information and comments
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the quick response. I won't be using it for distillation, but rather to cool the steam as quickly as possible when making maple syrup under vacuum. The evaporator is designed to be multifunctional and can also be used as a still. Then I will use a copper condenser or dephlegmator
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thé original lid is glass, but maybe someone knows a solution and where you buy tot have a lid where a condensator can be build on.
Hi, great video. I am following also on instagramm and would like to buy the nozzle. Do you have another link for this. The actual link is one where I have to register. I am from Germany. Maybe you have link form aliexpress, amazon or ebay? Many thanks :-)
You can probably get away with using that old dusty immersion chiller and a bucket of ice water as a condenser like what distillers use. I know everyone has one of those lying around. 😂
Actually not the case. You need the suction from the sprayer in order to pull the DMS steam out of the kettle just condensing the liquid itself like distillers do doesn't remove enough and you would still be left with a lot of DMS in your beer. Unless you're talking about using the coil for the recirculation option.
Went looking for distilling videos, but your channel caught my eye, and now, I know a whole lot more about Electric Brewing! So just had to get into brewing as well, because you really make it approachable Brian. Really enjoy your videos, even when you think they are a bit long, still informative. How about a series of short one minute videos answering common questions? Thanks Brian!
Great information, great presentation, great to see Anvil is watching the mods being done. You knock videos out of the park in your own way, and it is always a pleasure to see new content! Thank you!
Thanks man!! I try! 👍🍻
I brew with an Anvil Foundry in my garage and I just run a dehumidifier while I’m boiling to deal with the added moisture. Works pretty well for me.
Yeah that would be fine there I imagine. It's when you get into more confined spaces the the steam can be more of an issue. Listing condenser is not a solution for everyone but there certainly is a place for it and some people's process. 👍🍻
Great stuff! I’m not interested in a steam condenser per say, but always interested in DIY projects!
Thanks for the feedback!!
Brewhardware has an awesome version of this. Excited to try mine.
Thanks for sharing. I might have to build one in the future for my 20 gallon Boilmaker from Blichmann Engineering. I brew in the garage right now and don't really have a problem with the steam. I also cut the power down to about 70% and still have a nice rolling boil when brewing. Cheers!
Nice!! 👍🍻
Always looking forward to your videos Brian. I'm a garage brewer so I have enough ventilation but this is handy video to reference for Anvil if I ever need one.
Thanks!! And thanks for the support!! 👍🍻
Great vid. I also use the DIY brun dog condenser. I collect the water in 2 buckets (about 10 gallons similar to you) and then just park the buckets in the bathroom and flush the toilet with them for the next week or so. No water wasted :)
That's a great solution!!! 👍🍻
Oh cool, I was looking at the Brewtools condenser until this video made me realize I have almost all the parts from a experimental RIMS tube I dabbled with before!
Nice!! 👍🍻
Thanks Brian. Nice build video
Thanks!!
Really great idea, I may have to look into this further!
Yeah it would definitely keep you from having to brew out on the porch in the winter time.. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers my thoughts exactly 😂
@@TheApartmentBrewer 👍🍻
Excellent video, my DYI condenser is mounted on the side of the kettle,(BIAB) and works well, I might change mine to mount onto the lid of the kettle. Well explained as usual, thanks very much for the video.
Paul
Thanks Paul! 👍🍻
Haven't gone the route of getting an all-in-one system yet (still brewing either on the stove top or outdoors on a propane burner) but this "hack" for the all-in-ones makes a lot of sense and would likely cost a lot less than a very large hood and powerful exhaust fan. The aroma from brewing is ok by me (and my wife) but the moisture build up, especially if I want to brew in the basement (live in a bungalow) is something I would be concerned with. Great information in this video and I look forward to seeing your videos each Sunday morning! Cheers!
Thanks!! I am trying to be more regular and deliberate with my video schedule! I am.glad someone noticed! 👍🍻
Fantastic explainer video, I'd love to see a walkthrough of the build.
All you do is put the parts together. It's really not difficult at all. Like a simple puzzle. 👍🍻
As always, great job! Appreciate all of your homebrewing knowledge. See you Wednesday on the Hoppy Hour with CH!
Thanks!! 👍🍻
Great video. Ive always just had three buckets one fills and pull it out and refill the bucket with the pump and replace that one with the empty bucket and back and forth. Only using about 4 gallons of water. Never seen anyone on line doing this. I have the spike Version.
That works! 👍🍻
I’ll be doing this, thanks for the great video and parts links.
10-4 👍🍻
I’ve never really been too concerned about boil off while brewing in my mechanical room. I live in CO and the humidity in the winter is 35% and summer 50%. I actually run a whole home humidifier all winter to keep the humidity where it is. Been brewing about 8 times a year for 4 years like this and no problems. I am upgrading from a Grainfather to a 240v Clawhammer so I will watch my boil off rate and may have to throw a box fan in front of the window down there.
Whatever suits your situation. 👍🍻
Thanks for sharing that idea, Brian. It looks like a fun build. You’d have to modify your process for hopping if you use a Hop Spider 🕷 (easy fix), and coordination for sanitizing a pump/CFC. It’s kind of ironic you posted this topic when you did, not only for Anvil’s announcement, but because of a brew I did yesterday. I changed my brew process so I’m closer to a sink (away from my normal venting window) and used a 30 min boil to reduce steam build up. (The proximity to the sink made things so much more pleasant. No more stiff garden hoses across the bar top, knocking pictures and glasses and stuff to the floor). This condenser would be a cool addition to the brewery for long boils, but for a 30 min boil, you’d get to use it for maybe 15 min? As usual, great video 🍻🤓
Yeah crazy coincidence!! Lol those are all good points. Thanks for the feedback! 👍🍻
Make sure you get the brass spray nozzle. I started with the stainless one and it’s 416 not 316 so is not very resistive to rust. And the brass is cheaper from memory.
Interesting.
I`ve just fitted a 2" bulkhead for an extension to a t500 it covers the load better with the extension, I built a condenser on a 1/2 inch fitting on the side wall of my Keggle yet to give it a full test to see if it will draw enough.
Yeah if the 2-in pipe fittings and everything weren't as expensive as they are. I was trying to keep the price down on this I definitely would have gone with a 2-in bulkhead and 2-in tubing. Definitely let me know how that works out on your keggke!!
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yeah cost is a thing even from china, I`ve done a 3" to 1.5 for the hop dropper on my brewmaster as a 3" sight glass and valve would be expensive.
Thank you for sharing.
Welcome! 👍🍻
Huh? I was apparently pretty busy in September as I haven't seen this vidya either. The vidyas I want to see I miss. Being a tester at heart I wouldn't normally miss something like this. Cheers
. cheers!! 👍🍻
Hey Brian, great video as usual. I have a similar setup but I built a liebig condenser out of copper tube. Works great and allows you to recirculate the water.
Very nice! Send me some photos brian@shortcircuitedrewers.com
Can you use a Tee fitting instead of an Elbow so you can add hops?
Thanks for the video. What's your cleaning process like for this? Quick dunk, don't really worry?
Yeah a good rinse is really all that's needed. 👍🍻
I would suggest powerpole connectors for the power wires... much more robust
You can definitely do that. When I do these I try to use as minimal tools as possible for those that don't have a lot of tools. 👍🍻
Great video, thanks for all your hard work and research. Always enjoy your content!
Thanks man!! 👍🍻
Excellent video! I like to see a whirlpool arm for Anvil Foundry DIY or at store, I can't find any of those. Thx!
You mean this?
www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycleoverboard.htm
Since Anvil has come out with their steam condenser, how does this compare to their's? This does look better.
I have one in house currently I will be releasing a video on it soon. Sounds like I'll have to do a comparison video as well!! 👍🍻
I have a non-brewing application where I actually want the fluid going back into the pot. You mentioned that if the nozzle was place behind the "T" opening that it would travel back. Can you provide more information on this or direct me where I could learn more how to do this.
Are you wanting to add water to your pot as you go?
Im trying to minimize the loss of the distilled water I'm using. Right now it steams off so much its a full time job replenishing the water. The objective is to capture (condense) and recirculate back int the pot@@ShortCircuitedBrewers
@@KatherineZbodulaNP what not just leave the lid on closed during boil?
Great video again, thanks for sharing, Cheers
Thanks Christian!! 👍🍻
Brian, outstanding video for the all-in-one brewers!!! You had also commented on a possible option to connect this design to the "side" of a kettle. I have a kettle that is 23 gallons max, but boil around 17 gallons. Aside from hot break management, do you think a "side exit" (and a standard kettel lid) for the steam to travel will be effective enough to obtain good results?
Yep the designer of the original has a 20 gallon boilermaker and it works fine I recommend this bulkhead to attach it to a standard kettle. amzn.to/3z2wY7h
Could you show more detail on how you set up the recirculation?
I just hooked the pump to the input with the high pressure hose to the condenser and dropped the pickup hose into the reservoir..there is an arrow on the pump indicating flow direction. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ah..I was thinking it was a separate recirculating for cooling the condensate. I just got the Solo+, your pump isn’t submersible like the Solo setup?
@@davidkimball7199 no it's not I wanted a pump that would put out 80 psi. The spike pump is not even close to that. MAYBE 15-20 psi?
Great video as always! Just what I was looking for. Now I just need to find a lid for my grainfather G70
I wonder if the distillation lid for the brewzilla 65 L would work?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers fermzilla 65 lid 16,25“ (41,3cm) and G70 17,70“ (45cm) from what I can find using Google.
But I keep looking for a lid 😀🍻
@@famengberg ahh maybe grainfather will make something..
I did some searching around take a look at this lid it has just over a 18-in total outside diameter but it looks like it has a pretty good step down from the outer diameter to the lip that sits on the kettle it might be the right size! www.webstaurantstore.com/vigor-18-5-8-stainless-steel-replacement-lid-for-60-qt-stock-pot/473SSCOVR10.html
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers also did some research over here in sweden where I live and find a lid that might fit. Only 30 dollar so will give it a try.
im doing a similar diy but im using a spray ball and a 45w pump instead of a nozzle havent tried it yet but well see if it works.
May not work. You need the atomization of the sprayer to create a low pressure in the down tube.
That's a great option and well done tutorial! If you had to choose, condenser hood or steam condenser? Cheers!
They both have their place. The hood makes it easier for hop additions etc. But the condenser is nice and quiet. 👍🍻
Loved it! I was wondering about the hot break. I left my on from mash out to boil. The hot break always puzzled me why it is particularly more intensive. I would open my 4" glass panel but even that the hot break goes from nothing to full out vocanoe mode so fast. I will try leaving off lid until after hot break as you suggest which make complete sense. I was wondering about the pressure that builds up how that migh effect the brew process. Any thoughts?
There's not really any pressure. It actually creates a vacuum with the sprayer running. Not a huge amount but it is negative pressure in the kettle. 👍🍻
Is there a substitute found for the 1.5" TC X 1/2" FEMALE NPT THREADS ON BOTH ENDS (FULL COUPLING) that brew hardware is out of stock ?
Brian 'Like" done!!!! Thanks for your great videos!
Haha.. Keith will be sad...lol. 👍🍻
What about the hole in the foundry lid for the recirculation tube? Assuming that needs to be plugged, or no?
The handle works well repositioned to that hole as I show in the video.
Thanks for another great video! Question for Brian or anyone else: Compared to a steam condenser or the condensation hood, how well does a 400 CFM vent hood work for electric brewing? In my case, the duct to the outdoor would be only about 2 feet long, but I wonder if there would be too much condensation in the duct. Any thoughts?
What size duct?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers @Short Circuited Brewers Currently, there is a 6" diameter duct. From what I have read on HVAC charts, a 10" to 12" diameter might be needed for 300-400
@@chris.kriese I have a 460 cfm vortex fan with 6" ductwork on my brewing hood. There is definitely condensation that builds up but it does exhaust 95% of the steam. Hope that helps.
Would you still be able to use a hop spider? And how would you drop your immersion chiller in early to sanitize?
You could use a tall hop spider and set it on the bottom. You would take the condenser off to put your immersion chiller in. I don't put it in for 15 minutes you can wait until 5 or 10 minutes, if you are keeping you immersion chiller clean and spray it with a little star San solution before dropping it in. 👍🍻
Any thoughts on adding a spray valve like clawhammer to the foundry?
Do you need a spray nozzle? Have you seen my manifold solution?
ua-cam.com/video/4_M-NEOl8Bo/v-deo.html
Excellent! Nice man!
Thanks! 👍🍻
How much water does this consume, in total? I'd like to try it, but my concern is that it is water wasteful.
I covered it in the video.
Wonder if a shotgun condenser would work
Not really. It's not made to extract steam the same way. 👍🍻
Good stuff as usual Brian. Sláinte
Thanks Dennis! 👍🍻
Hey brian...I'm in the process of setting up my basement brewery and was curious about your hood vent... buying a custom one is pretty pricey..any info would be greatly appreciated
I built it from wood. Used marine paint on the inside to seal it and a vortex fan connected to the side with ac ducting. A steam condenser is a way cheaper option the vortex fan that loves the right amount of air is over $100 by itself.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I appreciate that response...the hood vent is better for me to accommodate all my brewing setups. I worried about protecting the wood but marine paint should do the trick...thanks again
another killer one!
Thanks Braj!!
What part did you use to plug the recirculating hole on the Foundry’s lid?
I just used the handle and washer that I removed from the top.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Awesome.. Thank you for the reply.
I have a still made from 2inch tri clamp pipe so I just rig it up on top of the robobrew and use it like a stripping run. Works a treat but the smell of it is not good at all. Fermcap prevents any boil over. Is there a reason people use this spray method as opposed to a condenser from a still?
Using a still doesn't strip off enough DMS you need to use the spray to create a suction and pull more of it out.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ok. Thanks. I’ve done a few brews this way and haven’t noticed anything off about them but for the sake of a tee piece and spray nozzle to upgrade what I have I’ll give it a go. Cheers
👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers How does the spray method work any different from a traditional condenser? In both cases nothing is really restricting the output of the boiling process. I could see a difference if you were using a deflag on a column and sending the vapor back down the column, but I would think you could pack it with copper and strip a lot of the DMS.
@@jtracy54 the spray creates a vacuum that pulls the steam and DMS out. You don't want any liquid condensing, or as little as possible condensing and falling back into the kettle otherwise you may not remove all of the DMS. A condenser just doesn't create a vacuum to ensure that all of the DMS is removed. 👍🍻
Very clever.
Thanks!
Wondering if I could build something like this for my Brewbuilt kettle on my herms system? I am currently fighting with steam in my brew house and it will be very difficult to install a hood.
For sure!! Just put a weldless bulkhead in the side of the kettle and then attach just the tee and spray assembly. Will take care of your issue for sure! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers That will work?
@@sjporr yes sir! The original design was done that exact way.
Does the brewzilla and foundry have the same size hole on the stainless steel lid? I have a brewzilla and got the steam slayer but a 1.5 tri clamp bulkhead from Amazon but it is wobbly like you showed in the video. The bulkhead by anvil looks like it solves that problem but there are no dimensions on the hole size so I can compare. Thanks.
I am pretty sure they are the same size because both of them will accept the T500 still column.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the video. The Amazon one is being returned and I ordered the anvil one. I was looking for a bulkhead tri clamp that would be more secure instead of having to buy a 2” TC bulkhead and reducer. Glad I found this. Awesome video!
@@mousetrapbrewing9566 your welcome!! 👍🍻
Wouldn't it be simpler to just use a traditional condenser design (shotgun or liebig)?
Well those don't remove enough DMS with the reflux action. The spray nozzle creates a vacuum that pull the steam off of the boil. It's not without some reflux but it removes the DMS
Isn't the hole in the Brewzilla/Digiboil lid too big to fit a 1.5" TC clamp? I think it's 48mm
It will work. The Anvil bulkhead will work better than mine though.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Cool! I just bought a B40 hood to my Brewzilla since I thought i couldn't use a steam condenser. But. How do you add the hop additions with the Brewzilla lid? It doesn't have a second valve like the Anvil or Brew Tools system. Won't you become steamed like a dumpling if you just open the lid to throw them in?
@@hermanmoller7630 not really you just pop the lid off and let the steam die down then add the hops.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Nice! I just canceled my order of the steam hat so I can get a steam condenser instead. Thanks for your help and the good timing of your video.
@@hermanmoller7630 glad to help!! 👍🍻
Hello everybody, Can you guide me where is a website where I can get the formulas to help me determine the size of the parts for the condenser? The tank I am currently using has an 11 kW immersion heater. This approach seems to solve my problem. Thank you all in advance for your information and comments
For distilling?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the quick response. I won't be using it for distillation, but rather to cool the steam as quickly as possible when making maple syrup under vacuum. The evaporator is designed to be multifunctional and can also be used as a still. Then I will use a copper condenser or dephlegmator
Hi. Will it fit a 65 liter?
Yes
Hi, anyone an idea how to build this condensor on a Brewmonk titan 70l? diameter of the lid is 35cm (13,7 inch)
What type of lid? Glass?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thé original lid is glass, but maybe someone knows a solution and where you buy tot have a lid where a condensator can be build on.
Hi, great video. I am following also on instagramm and would like to buy the nozzle. Do you have another link for this. The actual link is one where I have to register. I am from Germany. Maybe you have link form aliexpress, amazon or ebay? Many thanks :-)
I can't find a ali express link sorry.
You can probably get away with using that old dusty immersion chiller and a bucket of ice water as a condenser like what distillers use. I know everyone has one of those lying around. 😂
Or two. ;)
Lol
Actually not the case. You need the suction from the sprayer in order to pull the DMS steam out of the kettle just condensing the liquid itself like distillers do doesn't remove enough and you would still be left with a lot of DMS in your beer. Unless you're talking about using the coil for the recirculation option.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers that's what I was thinking. Use it in an ice bath to make sure the spray is at a reasonable temp.
Yes! That would work for sure.
CH not first :)
Ahahaha!! 👍🍻