Long Crank On Your BMW E90 335i? Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement DIY
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- In this video I show you how I diagnosed and replaced my faulty fuel pressure regulator on my 2008 BMW 335i equipped with the N54 engine.
This DIY would be useful for any E90. The part I installed can be found here:
www.oreillyauto...
This fits in many E90s.
Link to a thread showing how to setup INPA/NCS Expert:
www.e90post.com...
If you have Windows 10 64-Bit:
www.e90post.com...
You can find the INPA cable online at places such as Amazon or Ebay. Search INPA Cable K+D Can. When you see the word "affiliate" listed beside any link in my description please know that this is a custom link and I will earn a small commission if you opt to purchase using said link. This is at no extra cost to you so it's a win all around :) Thank you!
Pro tip. Tie a string to the ends of the pump hoses, so when you install the new they become easier to feed back through.
This. I also found zip-tying the ends of the hoses together helped (one vent tube kept getting caught while feeding over to the pump)
Is paracord safe to use for this?
Just replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator on my E92 and since you need to touch the Fuel Pump to replace it I changed it too. I thought it was going to be more complicated but it was surprisingly easy. Thanks for the video, it really help me out.
Yeah it took my about a hour maybe
I just finished my fuel pressure regulator replacement in 1 hour thanks to your tutorial. My regulator was cracked so fuel the pressure was wonky especially with a full tank when starting the car and the exterior of my car was always smelling like gas in the garage. My e92 has 130K mi and is now running like a dream! Thanks again!
Just completed this job on my 2010 BMW 328i last night. Overall not too bad, but you have to make extra sure your gaskets are seated correctly when tightening them down, or when you go to the gas station to pump fuel, about half tank, it will start spilling out over the top of the fuel tank and go everywhere. Just my experience. Your video was a HUGE help, thank you for this!
Thanks for the feedback and glad it helped!
Nick Oaks q
everyone tunes these without replacing the filter/ regulator. the fuel system is very important on this engine. i had shops tell me it had no filter/ regulator. a clogged filter will ruin the pumps and cause lots of issues. great work!
Thank you so Much Vehicular DIY! Tons of steady clear video that's long enough to show the difficulties w/ your explanations. I KNOW how hard that was to do video and LOTS of technical details showing the challenges and potential pit falls. You're like a living tech manual! LOVE IT.
I've been watching your videos on the fuel system topics you did way back when like this one and your first injector vid as well as the later ones. But even in these earlier videos you are so considerate of us viewers making sure we can see and know what, where and how each part needs to be done. Thank you for the hard work and time you've taken with each one! I hope I have gotten all the parts I need to update (High mileage car too at 184,000 miles) and pinpoint the problems with my new to me 2008 335XI. You are taking the mystery out of diagnosing and repairing by showing us all that you do.
myy maaaaans..you got the thumb up right when i saw you had the tool for the ring...i admire your respect for the bmdub
"Couple of safety aspects"
Me already soaked in fuel... LOL
Great diy though you have saved me a lot of money, not just from this job but many others.
Danm why is that BMW make everything so complicated.. Thanks anyway this makes my job much easier..
First off I’m a Fellow UA-camr ( my channel is about GIJoe and Retro Toys) .. I’m a huge fan of yours as I love Wagons and own a 2011 328i e91. I completed this ONLY to discover my Fuel Pump was bad. I guess it’s best to DO BOTH if 1 needs to be replaced.. just think that’s best to recommend
Thank you again Vehicular DIY. From coding my 645ci to fixing my wife’s 328i. This job save me over $1000 that a local repair shop was going to charge me. Granted they said that they were going to have to drop the WHOLE gas tank! The ONLY thing I have to add that made this just a little easier than you already made it was that right before I pulled the old hoses through the tank, I tied a wire to the hose with the clip on it, pulled it through along with the hose leaving a little enough on the other end. Then tied that wire to the clip on the new hose then just pulled the line straight back through. Worked like a charm. Along with tying all the hoses together with a zip line as mentioned by another commenter. I was done a little over an hour. Thanks Vehicular DIY!!!!!
great instructional videos, thanks, respectively letting you know that a “motor” is electrical, not internal combustion. FY I
thanks man, just did this job and it was easier than i thought.
Appreciate all your videos man! My garage has been smelling like gas a bit recently...and looking into the issue I discovered it was the fuel pressure regulator. I could smell the fumes in the rear left wheel well, I took off my rear seat cover and took off the metal plate covering the regulator. After taking it off I could smell the fumes and the plastic top of the regulator looked like it had residue of fuel on it. This video will definitely help when I replace the regulator!
I’m doing mines now, and this video helped me tremendously. Thank you for sharing!
Howdy my fellow local bud... thanks for this detailed video. I'm planning to tackle this myself this weekend. I was skeptic at first, but looking at your video... made it seem like it'll much easier than when I first thought.
Thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge. Saved the day with the detail walkthrough.
Thank you! Glad it helped are you were able to get it done. 👍
Before you changed did you experience a strong smell of gasoline outside the car?
No I did not have that symptom.
Joss Rodriguez I had the smell and leaking as well. For me the issue was the plastic seal that the metal lid screws onto had cracked. Now I don't know if I can get that part separately or if I need to buy an entire new fuel tank.
Semir Andelija you have to buy the whole thing 156 here in florida . I had same thing smell og gas an leaking
Also had the symptom of strong gas coming from the rear drivers wheel well...took out my rear seats, took off the cover over regulator and immediately smelt gas, as well as some condensation of gas on the regulator itself. Dealer said it was safe to drive but needed to be replaced...
I purchased a 2015 335i back in August from local small town Toyota Dealership. Big Mistake. But I did get an aftermarket warranty which was a life saver when the car died on the road. It was hauled to Patterson BMW in Wichita Falls, Texas who claimed to replace a bad injector. A few days later the car died again. This time it was returned to the Dealer who told me there are no codes to read and the car has no fuel filter. I figured the warranty just isnt paying them enough to work on it so I left. They did charge me $192 to read the codes and the warranty paid nothing because there was nothing on the codes.
I made it about 50 miles down the road before it died again. This time the tow cost me $100 and the rental car cost me $100. Now I am out a total of over $300 and still dont have the car fixed. The Toyota guys just throw their hands up and say "you should have bought a Toyota". Then they offer to trade me down to a little Toyota Rav 4 or less luxury. So, Im on here researching the problem. The factory recall for a fuel pump was supposedly done back in Feb.2019 at Lubbock, Texas. The Dealer tried to tell me I ran it out of gas. I topped it off on the tow truck and it took about 10 gallons. Dealer again trying to send me on down the road. So with a full tank the car made it home and as I told the Dealer it only sputters out around one quarter tank. So..low pressure pump...I just learned...likely the culprit. So watching this video...I am going to save myself a ton of money and wish I had researched this before wasting two trips to the Dealership and $400 to be told I likely just ran out of gas. I was about to punch the guy in the nose for insulting me. I cant imagine such arrogance being displayed at any Dealership. But for sure, I wont be going back to Patterson BMW for service on my 335.
Wow this is next level stuff, looks like this combination of software can do way more than a generic OBD2 scan tool by been specific to the BMW. I got me a scan tool for $500 (Launch CRFP909x) and don't get close to it.
Thanks for the video man. Definitely helped me out
I replaced my FPR because their was a small crack on the top and it was leaking gas. I followed step by step on your video. It seemed to install easy just like yours. Now my car wont start. It cranks but wont turn over. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Did you get this resolved? Do you have INPA setup on your laptop to verify fuel pressure?
does it matter which return line goes to which connector? Or are they interchangeable? I haven't got the part yet so I don't know if they are different sizes.
Did it matter which line went where? I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks in advance
This is now a common issue with e92
Cracks on top of pressure regulator/filter assymbly then leaking. Must be resolved as soon as possible cause in some cases it makes fuel mist under the car which can cause fire/explosion.
I am wondering if this issue causes my 2008 328XI buckling and shanking especially at HOT start... I've tried everything so far, replaced everything around the engine, all the sensors... No luck so far, it's just driving me insane...
@36:36 Why didn't you just take the lines off of the passenger side and connect the new pump to the old lines? DO those lines not come off?
Exactly what I was thinking I'm about to do this tomorrow did you try it? Did it work?
@@velcro7760 I just got my new pump a couple days ago and it looks like they're heat shrink around so I don't think it's going to be possible you have to take it off of the passenger side as he is showing in the video. I was really hoping for a shortcut.
hi , i see your video , thank for it , but , i don't understand your analyse process , if you have a problem with the low pressur , why you see higth pressure, i think you look low pressure good (3.4bars -340kpa ) when not running , but why don't see mwb6 : lowpressure ? the probleme is fast to see ?( if i good understand your problem ) , because , i have n53 2aaf code, i on my car , my low pressure is always 5.0bars (500kpa), i think it's my problem , and when i see your video , i don't understand why you diagnostic regulator low pressur whith higt pressure value ...(sorry for very bad english .....) thank you for reply ! good day
WhTs the hose on the top connected to the fuel sending unit need to replace my hose idk where from the bottom to take them off
So I changed the Fuel sending unit since it was leaking on the top dome piece. Now my fuel tank only fills up halfway and I’m getting long cranks. Wth happened
You probly put it in wrong and idk about the cranking get a new starter
What is this tool kit you used called?
MOTOWENS did you happen to find out?
Hopefully you've changed the battery in that chirping smoke detector by now.
Yes and I've moved, I know that was pretty annoying.
Yeah, contender for most annoying DIY video because of that.
Hello guys,i have 2009 335i ,have this problem right now on my car, i changed the FPR did everything correctly but the problem still exists.
Can somone help me to fix this problem maybe somone had this problem before and problem was other thing?
When this goes bad would it stop fuel from getting to the fuel rail
Can you just reconnect the old lines to new FPR? So you don't have to remove the fuel pump. I am about to do this same job.
Potentially but I wouldn't recommend that.
Vehicular DIY why just use the old lines ???
The fuel filter failed on mine not the fpr I want to be sure because my friends is also 11years old now.
hi, great video, i did just this and still long starts. no fault codes, no accell shutter. HPFP is good when running but it drops off to zero when engine is off. Should the HPFP maintain a couple hundred PSI or bleed off? How do I test for a leaking injector?
I did the same thing you did and switched my regulator with the same Continental regulator that you had and after I took it for a drive with the back seat still out to make sure everything was fine and it was but after I couldn’t help notice that around the top hats of the fuel pump and the regulator and the whole top area was hot after the drive is that normal? I’m worried my gas tank will blow 😅🥲 any ideas?
What is "the fuel pump control module? I've never heard of that? I'm having very strange troubles after following your stage two LPFP build and install. The car will not make more than 11-12 PSI now. My fuel rail pressure is only around 600 to 700 psi. and will go to about 1000psi when reved up. I'm really confused. I thought the line was kinked at first so I pulled it out and shortened the main line but nope. I then replaced the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (I used the old style but with new old stock sensor) no change. I'm totally lost here. Please help if you get this I just have no clue what to do next and my HPFP is only a year and a half old. The car starts immediately with no hesitations or long cranking. It's N54 BTW. When I turn the car off the fuel pressure goes up to 24 psi. Really weird and totally frustrating.
Question. Out of all these fuel system components, low pressure fuel sensor included, which one would could cause no start issues?
Spent 6 hours installing this thing just for the fuel line on the regulator to take a fat doodoo all over me. It ended up popping out and spilling gas all over. Couldn’t push it back in. So now I’m just gonna stop playing mechanic and taking it to one
Hey i just did this to my bmw 335i e90 yesterday and everything seemed to work great . Replaced because my old one was cracked and leaking. However noticed later on the day after replacing that it doesnt sense the fuel ? put 25$ of gas and doesnt move at all. Is it the float that senses the fuel ? the car is running just doesnt sense the fuel
Yeah that fuel sending unit is built into that, perhaps you have a defective float on the new one.
Would this include the e90 N55? perhaps? I get long cranks in the morning on the first start, it happens regularly when i have the car sitting for a while or over night.
Probably. The e90 325i is the same. I believe all of the e90s have the same set up.
Thankfully ,very good jobs
Can you post a video of installation and configuration on the pc and what is the OBD2 cable you got ?? Thanks in advance
So if that goes bad would the car still crank
I went to replace my fuel pump in my 09 e90 328i and it looks nothing like this... any ideas? I posted pictures on a forum if that helps
You didn't set up the removal tool properly. The cenre of rotation, should be over the centre of the securing ring. If it is offset, as shown in this video, then you are not applying equal force to both contact points and so it keeps jumping off.
I have a e93 2007 330d n57 engine... it starts fine after 2 to 3 secs ... but sometime I get long cranks randomly like every other day or so... its not even cold in UK... can someone help?
Is the other end of passenger side vacuum hose attached to the gas filler tube?
Got a question. I also had to replace the pump at the same time because the male connection on the pump module from the regulator hose was broken in the process. Does the pump's canister (reservoir) need to have fuel in it, or does it need to be immersed in fuel to successfully turn on the car? There is a little fuel in my tank, but not the pump canister (reservoir), and it didn't turn on. Everything seems to make noise as if it's functioning.
Hey sorry for the late response, yes it would need to be submerged.
I’m gonna be doing this on my 2008 e92 335i this week. Is there a part number ?
Is the fuel filter incorporated into this regulator assembly?
ok that was a good demo. very straight forward. But i have some issues with my 09 E92. as i accelerate normally, the car is fine. "Normally" meaning just a gradual acceleration. But when if i punch it a tad bit more to get quicker acceleration, the car just goes into limp mode. Now having said that i have come across many forums on the internet about these models and what this could be caused by and that it is a High Pressure Fuel Pump issue. Now that i explained to you how exactly comes about, would it be fixed the same way you have demo'd here or is it the High Pressure Fuel Pump.
If the car goes into limp mode then the codes stored in the DME can tell you a lot. Have you had it scanned?
Vehicular DIY my car goes into limp mode, but I know the fpr is leaking. Is that most likely the answer to limp mode? No codes coming up through edm port
Thanks, this video helped a lot!
Life saver!! Thank you!
You’re video helped me immensely!
I did it in a two door...whew !
Now one hang up, when I went to put
gas in it, it would stop filling up at
2/3 tank. What do you think is going on?
your float is probably stuck, you are probably full tank. Happen to me when i did the 540lph pump mod
@@Revoluzion omg, now I have to open her back up?
@@josephbeltramini5442 yeap, the float is definitely stuck, the arm gets stuck easily with all those hoses around.
after you changed it did you notice a rapid decrease in gas but you mpg remaining high
I didn't notice any significant change with regards to MPG after changing this.
You would have found that so much easier if you made sure your wrench was center'd between the 2 posts.
well done man!
Good video ...Thanks!
NO NO NO hit it the ring with a larger flat screw driver and a hammer. It just takes dexterity.
The tool engagement is too little and it is not mounted to control all axis of movement, you can
hurt yourself when that thing slips. Plus damage anything it strikes as it flys off.
Im surprised that these connectors are soaking in fuel
How do you know its the fuel pressure regulator and not the low pressure fuel pump?
Good question, i replaced the fuel pump 1st, didn't fix the issue, replaced the regulator - problem solved i haven't seen any information or insight into how to know which it is, from all the info online i was convinced it was the fuel pump check valve but it seems in our cars the check valve that causes the loss of pressure is in the regulator part NOT the fuel pump
@@Inspherespace i changed the fuel pressure regulator first and it fixed my power loss and long crank problem.
I just did this and here is what happened. Finished the job and fuel level stayed the same. The next day it went from quarter tank to half a tank? Filled the car to the brim and now the needle doesn't drop. Says full tank and it's definitely not full anymore. Thoughts?
Junkerbunker same thing just happened to me. Did you figure out the issue ?
@@raidyalvarez4340 I just left it and kept filling the tank. Seems like it has corrected itself and the needle is moving correctly... Starter just broke, I can let you know what happens with this tank, its at 3/4 at the moment according to the needle. I saved the old float mechanism from the old transfer unit, if it keeps going screwy, I am gonna swap the floats to the OE one and see what happens. I am assuming its the computer and the new aftermarket float not wanting to co-op OR it needs to calibrate itself. I did run out of gas with the needle showing 1/2tank the first tankful LOL. I ll keep you updated.
Konrad C awesome! Really appreciate it. I installed a VDO OEM part. I haven’t opened it up yet but my suspicion is that the float is stuck on something. I guess I should travel with a gallon of gas in my trunk lol
@@raidyalvarez4340 Thats a really good idea, you will run out, reset your trip and keep track of your mileage. That was my suspicion as well but here is how the e90 works: The low pressure fuel pump float is suppose to take the fuel from 1/2 tank to empty. The Transfer unit float is suppose to count from full to 1/2. That's what I've been reading. I could be completely wrong.
It didn't feel like it got stuck on anything, but that was my initial thought too. Then again, these cars even have a battery computer, so, I am now leaning towards computer calibration. I only ran 2 tankfuls so far and the needle is moving, it wasn't moving at all at first, so once the starter is fixed, gonna try a few more miles before opening up that monstrosity again
Konrad C awesome keep me updated. These Cars are so complex sometimes
ok ok ok let's misspell the myth that screw driver and hammer are a bad idea, I just did this job yesterday for the first time in about 1hr45min. I did get stuck hitting the fuel pump ring, then it occurred to me to spray some WD40(using the straw) into the top little openings on the notchouts,
It bubbled nicely and the more I sprayed the more the bubble came out the bottom openings. Let it sit, then tap the ring right off the fuss no muss, much fast than the tool. I mean even if you decide on the tool, introduce WD40 into the openings, it'll make you change your religion. one other thing, brown nipple on the pump everyone breaks? I didnt break it , depressed the bottom tab a few times to break it loose, do not pull up right away, rotate it, lightly wiggle it, pull up slowly you will feel it when it's happy to come out. Patience and common sense go a long way for this task over all. P.S my job was easy because I had next to nothing gas left, If you have to do it with substantial gas in the car pump from one tank to the next. alot of people get in trouble because theyre rushing to get their hands out of the gas. OK DONE! btw thanks for the video
Did you get any codes? I replaced mine a couple months ago from a cheap one from eBay... yeah I know. Short after I started having issues, the car would go on half power mode and it would give me the a HPFP code. 2 HPFP later I still have that issue, now I’m thinking that the regulator I bout from eBay is bad.
I did not get any codes but have you monitored your low fuel pressure to ensure it stays above 50PSI under wide open throttle?
No smoking!
You fast forward the most important part of the video my friend the purpose of this videos is to share your knowledge with we the people is like you just want to get likes for your video but don’t even let us see what you are doing don’t the best part of the video you fast forward it most of the time I just looked at your hand trying to connect those hoses but when you are connecting the wires you don’t let us see you supposed to explain what are those wires for is like you want to share but at the same time you don’t want to share
do you know how to check the low fuel pressure sensor with INPA?
Mel B I'm sure you can via INPA under the DME. I've been using MHD flasher to monitor my low pressure sensor. I have a video on that if it helps.
could a bad fuel pressure regulator cause a misfire or cat to glow red / orange?
Not likely, possibly a bad injector.
Vehicular DIY 👍🏼
I followed your video to the letter and when i went to relieve the pressure by disconnecting the fuel pump power my car wouldnt start. I continued on with the repair but still had pressure in the line when i disconnected the line going to the fpr. After i got new part installed and everything back together car will not crank at all to start. I hear the humming from the fuel pump and pressure regulator and a single click noise from the front of the car possibly the starter but engin will not crank please advise.
Hey just sounds like your battery ran down while you were doing the work. Try giving it a boost.
Vehicular DIY already tried that. Even put a jump box on to make sure. I hear the pump humm and a click from the front of the car but wont crank at all
I just re-read your comment, so once you disconnected the fuel pump harness and went to go crank the car to relieve fuel pressure it didn't crank at all? Even though your car isn't cranking are you able to tell if there is fuel pressure being built up now? I'd be checking all the fuses with a multi meter before going further.
yes once i went to start the car with the power disconnected from the fuel pump it would not crank at all. after that i disconnected the fuel line to the FPR and it sprayed everywhere. i removed the negative terminal during the repair after i tried to bleed the pressure but car wouldnt start so pressure never bled off. now that new FPR is in car still wont crank at all.
could the IBS sensor on the batttery be tripped or a blown fuse. I took a test light to the fuses and every fuse was working in the glove box wasnt sure what ones i actually needed to check so i checked them all.
my fuel rail pressure value from the shop came in at 4920.00. is that bad?
Got mine for under $200 from fcpeuro.com
you are chengin the filter on driver side or the fuel pump on the passanger side???
The pressure regulator is on the drivers side, the fuel pump is on the passenger side.
Might as well do both since both need to come out.
Would this be same procedure for 328i 08 coupe. Thanks
Yeah it's just about the same overall process.
VERY GOOD
Hi, did you fix your long crank problem by replacing the pressure regulator or is it still there?
ShowyKnight088 doing this helped my long crank issue on my 328i, but I've heard the fuel pump will sometimes cause a long crank (esp with the 335i)
The fuel pressure regulator definitely fixed my long crank issue.
hello everyone, i have a bmw e92 2011, and i experience long cranks only when the weather is hot and the car was parked for several hours, apart from that its start very good,anyone experience the same issue?
dragos columbeanu if you haven’t figured this out already. It could be many things that cause long cranks with the n54 motors. Use INPA or scanner and check for bmw specific “hidden codes” and go from there. Could be your FPR, your HPFP or injectors. Codes and checking fuel pressures will help determine
Ps. Injectors can be checked for leaks by pulling the spark plugs. They can lead gas onto plugs when sitting for a long time, which causes the long crank
Can I do this with little gas in the car?
Yeah ideally the tank shouldn't be too full.
Vehicular DIY okay thanks!
I did with full.
I can smell the fuel from here
Man bro I hate my 328i so much, can’t believe I gotta do this bs. Bmw is so trash for making all these tight space faulty parts. I miss my honda 😢
Great videos, thanks for taking the time to make them, I picked up an 07 335i coupe and it suffers from an occasional long crank, its the only symptom. I replaced the FPR based of your info and its a cheap place to start, It was running good for a day or two but its pretty cold today and the long cranks returned. Any suggestions as what to try next, car has 69k miles. I know you suggested the fuel pressure sensor, i must try your diagnose method and see what mine shows up. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
I thought i depressurized the lines and boom gas supersoaker to the face, make sure you keep stalling the engine
Update, took 2 days since I ran out of sunlight but about 3/4 hours total, thank you!
Pro tip: change your smoke detector battery
Thank you so much! This solved my longer start up issue in the mornings. I bought the part from fcp euro for $140 and fixed my 328i.
What year?
Thank you very much!! Helped me do this for my mom's 06 and saved her a ton of money. You a real one 👍
how much gas was in the car when you did this ? looks like it was pretty full , I'm thinking of doing this with the car at almost low just to avoid splashing gas everywhere.
1/4 tank or less would be ideal. I found that you can do it with as much as 3/4 of a tank though.....but I wouldn't recommend it.
I've upgraded my lpfp to stage 2 about a year ago. still enjoyed watching your video. very informative. I wondered what the regulator looked like. A bit fiddly getting everything back and happily seated. easy to lose patience.
BMW threethreefive agreed
Helped me specifically visualize what needed to be done, thanks! Pulling the plugs to the fuel pump and then starting the engine was a great solution to avoid having to drain the tank completely before opening the tank. Pertinent to a 2011 E90 328i LCI
Great video!! I had to replace my fuel pressure regulator due to a few micro cracks on the top of the module. My car was constantly leaking fuel. I chased the drip all the way back to the top of the regulator. This video was exactly what I needed. Very clear and great quality!! Thanks!!!
Is it possible to only change the top white piece which he removes first or do I need to change the whole thing with hoses? The leak is on top piece
@@NicoDelCap I was wondering the same thing. Maybe some simple fuel tank sealant would work?
@@troylunn496 ended up replacing the whole part.
Same problem on 09 328i
@@NicoDelCap I tried to glue the stupid cracks. Maybe rubbing a bar of soap might work for you. Im replacing the stupid unit. Going to need a respiratory mask!
Dude, change your battery in your smoke detector! LOL.
Thank you for the excellent video. This worked perfectly for a 2011 E90 328i.
Tip: Unplug the fuel pump electrically before you start. If you don't, and you've unhooked the fuel lines outside the tank, gasoline will spray all over your rear interior if you open a car door / use the key fob / etc.
So happy to have found you, DIY. One thing I appreciate besides the skill and presentation is you don't keyword spam your descriptions like "Auto Repair Guys". You are in this for the satisfaction of helping people. Those guys are in it for the clicks, which most of the time lead to not my car.
Thanks for the video! I was able to do this whole job in about an hour and half with no major issues. 🍻
Thank's a lot for this very good tuto worked perfectly on my 325i E90 2006
Great detail, shows everything, your amazing man great video 👍🏽
This solved my long cranking issue, as well as my fuel smell issue. Thanks! It turned out that my fuel filter was pretty old and needed to be replaced.
so the issue you were trying to fix was it took a long time to start when you cranked it?
You are the man!!! Followed step by step and got it all done, thank you!!!!
what are the symptoms from a bad LPFP vs HPFP?
Hey Musa. My regulator was worn out, so a got a long crank start indeed. After I shut the car down my fuel pressure went down from 500 kPa to 380kPa in about 15 minutes. After I changed the unit it holds pressure for a long time, and the restart is always great. I mentioned a different car behavior too, at partial throttle.
So this regulator can fail also at low milages, like mine. My e93 was only at 56k miles. But it is also 13 years old( 4-2009). So I think the regulator will fail by age too, not only by milage. Btw, I put a string on the hoses to guide them to the pump side. Thanks for sharing this DIY. It was very helpful. Dutch regards, Nico.