Hi Mike. From a dad who spends more time working on the stupid pool more than I go in it. Just wanted to let you know your vid is still helping people 4 yrs later. I was ready to "accidently" puncture my pool and then melt it in the fire pit. This has saved it for another summer. Thanks man
THANK YOU! As a fellow DIY guy I usually turn to you tube or google when I'm stumped. I truly appreciate people like you who take the time to post a video. Keep up the good work!
This is why I love the internet. Thank you Mike. I have a 8220 with a different build up and wire colours, but the principle is the same. I connected the chlorine power directly to the main power and it works without error. Thank you so much.
WOW! My hubby is a teacher too, NOT a builder by trade, but can pretty much build it all thanks to youtube and friends and family he's been able to glean information from! Thank you for sharing so we can give this a try ourselves.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Your observations about the youtube community and Craigslist were spot on. The more people on board, the better the community can function. It doesn't take much when each person gives a little effort. Thanks again!! My chlorinator is now working nicely.
My husband said “He’s a genius!” We had tried everything to fix with no luck and prices have hiked for new systems thanks to COVID. This should get us through until we can find one at normal pricing. Appreciate it!
Hey girl same boat my sand filter went out and I debated if I should purchase a whole new system with the salt and decided not to and just got the sand filter because my salt one still worked and I could have gotten the whole system for 275 so I purchased the sand filter for 175 and now just for salt system the price is 500 dollars !!
Thank you so much! My system was only 1yr old (and only used for about 3 2 months). I tried the vinegar cleaning (although the plates looked absolutely clean!), and still had this issue. Left for a 2 week trip and came home to a green pool! My salt levels are fine. You saved me a lot of time, frustration, and money! Thank you again!
Thank you!!!! this worked!!!! found the white terminal rusted...jjust splice the 2 black wires together, red and white together, tape, and hello chlorine!! awsome video!! you saved summer!!
I watched like 10 UA-cam movies on how to fix this and after soaking in vinegar like the other 9 suggested I did this. Took me less than 10 mins. Thank you so much!
Had the same low salt and service light frustrations. Tried this with my Canadian model. Wires are different colours and I ended up getting a free smoke show out of it. At least now I don't have to wonder if I should buy a new one. Thanks for the tutorial and be careful Canadians
You are my hero! My unit is an all in one and has only one power switch but the same board. I was getting the service light about 1 minute after starting (1 month into its 5th season of use). I first cleaned the terminals but no help. I followed your instructions and connected the red and white to the top screw and the two blacks to the bottom screw. I have been using it in FP mode (filter pump) because it will at least filter and not shut off with service error. So when I powered it up it was still in FP mode but I had chlorine flow big time. I am so happy. I shopped on line to buy a new one but all the big online and big box stores are sold out. With your help now I don't need to buy a new one. I am going to get a external timer since the internal one doesn't work in FP mode. Thank you so much!!!!!
Thanks a million! I have the newer version but it looked almost the same. What was confusing to me was that you had already moved the wires. Before moving anything, the red wire is on the 12V slot. After this hack both black wired go to the 12v slot and the red and white wires go to the CL+ slot. Now I'm cranking out chlorine! Thanks so much!
Mike. Thanks for the video. Years ago I learned how to fix the pump bearings since they would go out after warranty. I am now on my 3rd 8110. So glad I found you video since we've have 98 degree days now and oddly enough way too much rain for July. My wires were a bit different from yours like someone else mentioned but you were right, it's all the same. Thanks for helping save my pool and my money.
Before doing this, try and flip either the generator cells plug, or the sensor plug. They must be the same polarity to work with the circuitry. I had this error with 5000 ppm of salt and knew it was something simple. The autonomous operation of the intex unit is why I use it, i got this system to avoid timers and management and it works great.
I’d like to know exactly what you mean as well. If I can leave the wiring normal and fix this issue I’d rather do that. The hot wire is working but I’m worried about how long it’ll last. So what exactly did you do!
Thank u so much , mine did this after 6 years of owning it , and how summer almost finish i didn’t want to buy a new until next year and this fix work like a charm , at first like u said it was a little confusing with all the cables , im bad with electrical things , but i did it yayyyy 😂
Thank you for your video had always worked with vinegar and proper salt but the 91 kept coming. I Did your steps in video 10 minutes later working great. Thanks for posting
You just saved me from what was a nightmare trying to get our saltwater system working. Thank you so much! I tried a million things and this FINALLY worked. I was almost ready to give up and take our pool down for the season until we could afford a new saltwater system. Now I don't have to!!
I've had my Intex CS8110 for 3 years now and this spring got the dreaded low salt (code91) so I cleaned copper plus the titanium plates and still got the low salt red light. I followed your instructions to hot wire the unit and it works like a charm. Thank you for saving me $150.00 plus the frustration that I don't have anymore.
Thank you .. this worked for me to . mine was a little newer unit so the wires were different , just in different order . the one thing I found out is that the fan will still run but not for a long time ,and then the service light comes on but it still makes chlorine , I added the two wires from the ECO ELECTRODS to the white and back on the connections I changed , also that is working the same time as the titanium plates making the chlorine ... I went a little further , I opened up the control box on my intex pump and found the 120v connections that came on when the pump came on and added about a 12'' cord with plug so I could plug the chlorinator in to it .. so now when my pump comes on my chlorinator does to .. wish I could post some pic's of it ... but it seems to work great .. thanks again ...
kipps5000 wish you could have posted that so I could see how it was done. That way I would not have to worry about turning the chlorinater on and off until I get my timer.
Had low salt reading and cleaning with vinegar wouldn't resolve. You are the master! This totally worked and reading chlorine at the water outlet. Thanks so much for this video!
Thanks a lot. This hack saved the day. It’s impossible to get replacement electrodes right now and sellers are price-gouging new units, if they happen to have one available.
I followed your instructions and it worked very well. I am producing more chlorine than when the unit worked and didn't give me a warning. Almost bought a new one. Thanks so much for the hack. YOU ARE AWESOME!!
I NEVER comment on videos, but I can't say thank you enough for sharing this.....I have been struggling with that service light since the end of last season and almost caved and bought a new unit right before i found this video. Thank you!!!
Thank you sir for this video, got my salt water system working again. Side note for fellow youtubers, please watch the video until the end. Otherwise you will think this method does not work 😉.
CAUTION: Typically you have a several second delay between the initial green light, once illuminated IMMEDIATELY push your BOOST button and hold. It will generally stay illuminated until the faulty LOW SALT kicks in several seconds later. AS SOON as you get the fully illuminated BOOST light, look at the left electrode....IF NO BUBBLES....your issue can be anything from dirty electrodes (remove and inspect for sediment can be soaked in pure white vinegar for 2 hours up to overnight to clean), internal failure of the main unit, to the left and right or left or right electrode failure. Since the INTEX parts are non refundable typically, rather than gamble the $140 for the electrodes, you are safer to just purchase a new unit. IF ON THE OTHER HAND you see the chemical reaction bubbles on the left electrode, this video offers a great easy fix. One last item.....check the left electrode each time that unit is powered on to make sure you see the bubbles As Mike Lee indicated. When the bubbles stop the electrodes need cleaning or replacement or the primary unit has failed. With Mike's suggestion we got an extra 2 years out of our system...but alas....after that the primary system failed and unit needed to be replaced. Thanks Mike for the great HOW TO.
Thanks for this video Michael. This is the first one for this unit I've seen that actually was practical and explains exactly what to do. My unit is now again producing chlorine. My only questions is does this also hard wire the copper element as well for the agaecide production when it is powered on? I need to get the green out!
Yes it works! Just was quoted $1,200+ 200 labor for a new Jandy salt system from my pool guy. This cost me -0- and about 5 mins. Was feeding my pool a ton of chlorine tablets, shock, everything you could imagine. Now I don't have to. Just keeping an eye on my chlorine levels with my little simple 5-way test kit. Never had any luck with the strips as you get a different reading every time(even 5mins later}. Bottom line, I saved 1400$. I'll take that anyday!
Thanks for this video! Water had gotten in and corroded a couple of the components on the circuit board. I re-wired it the way you showed and it worked!
Even a girl can do this! Thanks Michael in less than 10 minutes my pump is producing chlorine again. Much appreciated you took the time to make this video.
I have been fighting Algae and low salt all summer-KNOWING my salt wasn’t low…I tried cleaning in vinegar and that didn’t work…we’ll see how this one goes! Thank you for this video!
So I’ve done thus, and it’s running like you show in your video, but my chlorine level is not getting any higher…it’s been 4 days and has been running nonstop fir the last 24+ hours…I’m not so sure this is working…
First question......when you look at the electrodes inside the clear tube can you see little white stuff coming off of it and into the stream? If so, than it is producing chlorine. If not, the salt level might be off. 2nd- If you don't have any chlorine present you might want to use a bag of Shock to Jumpstart the chlorine. 3- Remember you still have to maintain the correct level of Salt in the pool in order for your chlorinator to work! You need to get a saltwater tester. Or just bring a sample down to your local pool place. PH is very important in avoiding algae. 4- if your pool has zero chlorine (check chlorine level with tester) than your machine probably can't produce it gast enough to keep up. You might need to add some shock or chlorine and stabilizer to initially get the water where it needs to be. Than the chlorinator should be able to supply the extra it needs to keep it right. Hope this helps! God bless
@@mikeleeslifehacks My salt level is right in fact it’s a little bit high but there was zero chlorine… I added two 1 pound bags of shock last night and had it running for 36 hours (there was the white running in the stream) and I appear to be at the correct chlorine level now so I’ll just have to check it and make sure that it maintains
Have had the same problem with 8 bags of salt in the pool, still showed low salt. Just wired it this way and its producing chlorine like crazy !!! Thanks Bro !!!
You are awesome, worked like a charm, this is the third summer I had my CS8110, it would not read my salt levels anymore(chemical levels read all good) this year after cleaning it with CLR and vinegar. Do you know if there is power going to the copper electrode? that kills algae by preventing algae growth. Thanks
My husband did this to ours this morning after our maintenance light kept coming on even after cleaning etc... this worked perfectly!!Thanks so much for sharing!
I have been using these units and getting a couple of years out of each one. I have kept all my old units. This solution works great and will let me get more life out of my units. I would just like to suggest you have to do wire as shown. Someone else posted that it does not matter and this wrong. IF you try and put a red and black and white and black together your unit will short out. The way Michael has done it, will correctly creating a circuit and the unit will work, otherwise you do have the potential for a fire.
How did you find out the wiring diagram for your saltwater chlorination pump. The one I have has a capacitor right above the cooling fan. I wired mine up like you did but not sure if it works the same.
YOU ARE THE BEST! I thought I was going to have to buy another unit- of course I'd just have the same problem 3 months later. Mine didn't even make it one season before I had issues.
This video was great, my chlorinator stopped working for me right after the warranty expired. I went through all of the steps that you described, and hooked up the wires exactly as you showed. And my salt cell unit appears to be producing chlorine...it's foamy/bubbly, exactly the same way it was when it was brand new. It looks like it's working perfectly. However, when I test my water in the pool, the test doesn't show any chlorine in the water. And the water doesn't smell like chlorine. I have let the unit run for several days in a row, basically in "boost" mode the entire time. I have fully cleaned the salt cells with vinegar. Everything looks fine, but no chlorine seems to be present in the pool water. Should I have hooked the wires up slightly differently than what is prescribed in this video? I'm so confused as to why chlorine doesn't seem to be produced at this point. Does the ionizer (the first cell that the water passes over) need to be wired differently? Thanks for any help!
Mike, appreciate the knowledge. Dealing with #Walmart and #Intex on these pumps has become ridiculous. Thanks for taking the time and transferring that knowledge!
Thanks so much for this video. Worked like a charm. My wiring went Black-White-Black-Red (top to bottom) and I put the two Blacks on the top and the White and Red on the bottom. Fan doesn't work now, but that's probably not a big deal. I just won't run it in the heat of the day. Thanks again!
You Rock teacher!!!! It worked for mine ....So how do you "Boost" when needed?????? And Yes may GOD bless America!!!! Thank you so much for being a one man swat team out there being a teacher!!!!
Thank you for your kind words! The boost just leaves the saltwater on longer. It doesn't do anything special! If you need more chlorine just let it run longer! God bless!
We have model cs7110. Unit was working fine for third season, then we had a power surge for some reason and the pump (on timer mode) shut off and the saltwater system had low salt light. I switched it off and back on, and then got the service light. We tried everything. Finally we tried your “hot-wiring” back and we have chlorine. I am happy now. 😁 hopefully it won’t burn up the unit. I will get a new one if they ever become available again without paying an arm and a leg. (Thank you Coronavirus!) I was so disappointed out possibly having to use chlorine in my pool. It’s expensive for one thing and a pain to have to keep adding chemicals. I am hoping it will last me brought the summer at least. How long did yours work without problems, if I may ask? Thank you for the video!
I'm used to cleaning with vinegar every week when prompted by the low salt warning, and that has worked fine for a couple of years. This time the warning wont go away after a thorough clean. Well it works for 10 mins, then fails. I've even added more salt as you never know...a low salt warning could for once actually mean low salt! I've cleaned my pump & sand filter thoroughly and i'm now getting a very high pressure, and i was wondering if it's simply pushing water through too fast for the sensors to cope with. I know during that 10 minutes of operation its working fine as there's a white bubbly stream of chlorine from the outlet. I know all I need is a way of keeping the thing running, so this hack is perfect, thank you!
Mike: You may not need to do this jumping trick to beat Code 91. Instead, simply reverse the polarity in the plates so it reads the buildup on the opposite side of the plates. This takes 30 seconds to do -- just unscrew and unplug the plug to the electrode plate, turn it around and plug it back in. This should cause it to read the other side of the plate which doesn't have the buildup. I've done it and it lasts several weeks then when light comes back on I switch it back. But great video for those who need to jump it. Thank you for making it.
I'm experiencing the same problems with my newer version after only 5 weeks. I'm getting an "error 92" high salt reading when the salt level is actually on little on the low side. After opening the unit I can see it has a different but very similar circuit board and wiring configuration. After removing the sensors from the clear plastic tube and dangling them in a tub of salt water I turned the system on to take some voltage and current measurements. I first eliminated the flow sensor as being the culprit. It is working normally. I then monitored the titanium electrode and noticed that it was fizzing nicely and I could smell the chlorine very strongly so I suspect it is not the problem. Using a voltmeter and a current meter I measured the voltage across the titanium sensor to be initially 5.89Vdc @ 2.60A rising after a few seconds to 9.63Vdc @ 8.54A. The E.C.O. electrode on the other hand seems to be doing nothing. The voltage across it remains at 4.2Vdc @ 0.73A with no bubbles or fizzing at all. I noticed as well that with the E.C.O. electrode disconnected (now unloaded the voltage at the terminals rises to 14.0Vdc), I will get a "error 91" for low salt indication. Reconnecting the sensor gives me a "error 92" high salt indication. From this I'm guessing that it is the current through the E.C.O. electrode (resistance through the E.C.O. electrode changes with salt level, higher current means higher salt level), that triggers the high or low salt indication. I surmise as well that it may be a faulty E.C.O. electrode. Can anyone add to this?
mine is the sand salt combo 16000 gallons per hour krystal klear combo, my pool is 15,300 gallons IF i figured it right 22 foot round by 52 inches deep. salt reading is 3470ppm. I constantly get low salt red light no code 91 or 92 etc beeps for about 10 minutes. I cleaned both electrodes for 20 minutes in white vinegar. still no chlorine. Is it feasible to add chlorine bleach daily until I figure it out? Plates might be bad, the system is 4 years old! thanks
Thank you for the no frills tutorial!!!! My 14 year old son just hot wired our system back into working order! Awesome fix. Thanks a bunch Mr Michael Lee Question though-should we keep the unit turned on so that the "heat sink fan" continues to keep the system cool? One of your commenters had mentioned to do this.
Michael, I was about one day from buying one of those 300.00 monster Intex salt systems. Mine was stuck on low salt ever since I installed a bigger pump. I tried every trick I could think of and all the other You Tube video tricks. Yours was last resort, but should have been first out of the shoot. You would have saved me all the chlorine tablets that I have been using for the past year. Next time I will trust you sooner. 👍🏼. Thank you. Now we will have a non red eye 4th of July.
Thanks for your advise , you save me a few hard earned dollars, I was getting high salt code and changed 20% with fresh water and still getting same 92 error so I followed you instructions and it work, Intex company will gonna hate you jajajajajajaja.
I am a single mom, who does everything I can to save money. I bought this $1000 pool in May of 2016. I am not a pool person but for the kid......well, you know. All summer I have fought green colors and low salt. I was about to drop $320 because I have a self contained unit, pump, chlorinator and sand filter together. After watching your video and figuring out my wiring, I rewired it and BAMMMM!!! You are awesome. I am not sure how long it will work without burning out the system. But my plan is to rewire it back and use it just as a pump and buy a chlorinator for $140 which saves me $200! How great is that???
Great Video Mike. One question before I do the wire change. My model (Intex ECO8110) has the same look, but the wires are different colored: Top to bottom from your picture: 1Black 2White 3Black 4Red.. From your description it sounds like I should combine wires 2 with 1 and 3 with 4..Make sense? Thanks a bunch
There has been comments about people with newer ones doing it. The motherboard might look a little different but the wiring should pretty much be the same
Thank you!!! My Intex pool is ECO20110, and the control head is mounted on the top of the pump. But I had the 91 error code fulltime, low salt signal, after bypassing as seen in your video, the on off switch and control panel still functions, the chlorine generator is generating and it's still saying low salt!!!!! But I have a digital salt detector and I don't hear as well as I used to so the beeping doesn't matter...... Thanks again
Thanks! Just bought a Summer Waves Saltwater System Model#P5E00400000 and worked great for 2 weeks then started low salt warning BS. added salt nothing! etc.. Mine was a little different but same concept, took out the 12v + and - wires going to board. Then took 12v + and - wires from the cell and hooked them up directly to the power supply same spot where the main board wires were and Voila!
Nice patio! Where did you get the outdoor curtains? You answered two questions in one! lol Mine (28669) never started making chlorine and I did not know how to check it. Never seen white water going through it. I need to get it exchanged. Thanks for the video!
John Toth thx! I bought the sheer curtains and made the other on one's. If your unit is new and never produced chlorine than you need too exchange it. If it's old and you've tried the hack and its not working than its probably time for a new one
Thanks Michael ! My Intex SWG is back to producing CL with your advice- I'm not "electrical minded" but your video instructions were clear- This might be a stretch, but the only alarm light I had was the "low salt"- code 91. Is there, by chance, a way, wiring wise, to bypass just the "low salt" , code 91 alarm? In the mean time, I have the 3 prong timer, SWG in "off" position, running along with my pump/ sand filter, as advised -my pool is crystal clear.Thanks and you're back yard looks awesome and fun! Again, Thanks!
thanks! realistically, you don't even need to turn the chlorinator on! I leave mine off because the way I wire it I bypass the on off switch. you can leave the machine power off and and it will still produce chlorine if you have it plugged in. hope that helps
you should still leave on the power switch because the cooling fan that is needed for cooling heat sink is not on when you have the switch off. even though it will still get codes it will not stop from creating free chlorine and the much needed fan will still work this will prevent premature heat sink fail due to overheat.
Michael, you are a friggin genius. I can't thank you enough. I had poured so much salt in my pool I thought I was swimming in the ocean. Just curious, how did you figure out how to bypass those sensors.
Hello mike. I have the same system you have. I did everything you did in video but I don’t see any chlorine been produced but I don’t get a three prong timer I just got a regular 3 prong cord. Could this be the problem or do I just need a whole new system.?
Shermaneice Foster the timer shouldn't have any effect on chlorine production. If you wired it correctly and your not producing chlorine than you probably need a new system
Good for you Michael. Thanks for posting. I just bought a saltwater system pump for my new soon to be installed(by me) Intex pool. Nice to know incase my pump takes a crap. Thank you.
DUDE! I have an intex saltwater chlorinator that we've used for only a year. After fighting algae and super high PH for the last 3 months I took a water sample to a local pool store to get the water tested. His first comment to me, your chlorinator is not working. Sure enough, I was getting a low salt error. after soaking the cells overnight with no improvement, I watched your video. 20 minutes later I have chlorine flowing out like gangbusters. You rock! :)
Not exactly sure what your asking? I think your asking if you can switch back the wires if you get a replacement cell and the answer is Yes! Just replace it back the way it was originally! Taking a photo will help you when you go to switching it back!
Thanks for a great how-to video! It's been about two months since you posted this, just curious if your unit is still producing chlorine as well as shown in the video. Thanks again.
Thanks a million for this video, helped me a lot. I'd tried about everything else before rewiring. However since i didn't see your original wiring conif it didn't turn out for me the first time. My machine has the 2 black wires at the top and the white and red at the bottom so thats the way i wired it,,, i didn't work. So i put the red and white wire at top and the 2 blacks at the bottom.closed the lid, flipped my power switch ( which controls the pump/sand filter and the SWG ) all the bells and whistles came to life,even the 91 code, but as i looked into the clear tube going to the pool, there were like a mist or flow of bubbles, which from what i have seen means its producing chlorine now... Once again many many thanks maybe it'll last out the rest of the year :D
awesome! if done correctly you shouldn't need to turn the power to the unit on! you just have to plug it in. that way you don't have to deal with the annoying warning sound. Anyway if it's working it's all good! happy chlorinating!
Thanks for the great tutorial - first one that actually helped! A question though - I did the bypass and it was making chlorine as you said, but only for about 10 minutes. Now nothing. The motor is still running, but no more bubbles. Has been that way for a few hours. Ideas?
Seth Baker you will still need to check your salt levels manually. the Chlorinator will no longer tell you if your low or high. you can buy salt test strips. sounds like you might be low on salt or may have tripped a circuit?
Great video, nice patio setup, "saved a little money doing it yourself" more like saved a ton of money, based on what u spent and wouldve cost, would love something like that if youre ever in lehigh valley, PA lol
So, I'm totally at my wits end and about to do EXACTLY this. It is currently tore apart. My question is, since this video is 5 years old, how long did it last? Even though my plates looked clean, I did the vinegar soak. My pool supply store said my salt level was high (using test strips), my intex says low. I even attempted to reverse the plug on the titanium plates on the left, the low salt warning went away and the high salt warning started.
Just like any appliance, all salt water units are different. There is no label on them that says how long they will last. If yours is dead than if it last 3 months that's long enough to get you through summer! Mine lasted 2 summers after the hack
Hi Mike. From a dad who spends more time working on the stupid pool more than I go in it. Just wanted to let you know your vid is still helping people 4 yrs later. I was ready to "accidently" puncture my pool and then melt it in the fire pit. This has saved it for another summer. Thanks man
😆 lol! I hear ya on that! So glad it worked for you! Have a great summer!
THANK YOU! As a fellow DIY guy I usually turn to you tube or google when I'm stumped. I truly appreciate people like you who take the time to post a video. Keep up the good work!
This is why I love the internet. Thank you Mike. I have a 8220 with a different build up and wire colours, but the principle is the same. I connected the chlorine power directly to the main power and it works without error. Thank you so much.
WOW! My hubby is a teacher too, NOT a builder by trade, but can pretty much build it all thanks to youtube and friends and family he's been able to glean information from! Thank you for sharing so we can give this a try ourselves.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Your observations about the youtube community and Craigslist were spot on. The more people on board, the better the community can function. It doesn't take much when each person gives a little effort.
Thanks again!! My chlorinator is now working nicely.
My husband said “He’s a genius!” We had tried everything to fix with no luck and prices have hiked for new systems thanks to COVID. This should get us through until we can find one at normal pricing. Appreciate it!
Hey girl same boat my sand filter went out and I debated if I should purchase a whole new system with the salt and decided not to and just got the sand filter because my salt one still worked and I could have gotten the whole system for 275 so I purchased the sand filter for 175 and now just for salt system the price is 500 dollars !!
Yeah! They totally jacked up the prices sinces everyone is home! Hope the hack works for you if you ever need it!
@@mikeleeslifehacks thank you it works way better than before but I have to clean the cells more often
That's a good sign! That means you are producing a ton of chlorine! Don't forget to put it on a timer so it runs only when the pump runs! Happy 🏊♂️
Thank you so much! My system was only 1yr old (and only used for about 3 2 months). I tried the vinegar cleaning (although the plates looked absolutely clean!), and still had this issue. Left for a 2 week trip and came home to a green pool! My salt levels are fine. You saved me a lot of time, frustration, and money! Thank you again!
Thank you!!!! this worked!!!! found the white terminal rusted...jjust splice the 2 black wires together, red and white together, tape, and hello chlorine!! awsome video!! you saved summer!!
I watched like 10 UA-cam movies on how to fix this and after soaking in vinegar like the other 9 suggested I did this. Took me less than 10 mins. Thank you so much!
prusthegoose so glad to help! lots of useless videos on the subject
Had the same low salt and service light frustrations.
Tried this with my Canadian model. Wires are different colours and I ended up getting a free smoke show out of it.
At least now I don't have to wonder if I should buy a new one.
Thanks for the tutorial and be careful Canadians
Thank you for this video mine would usually work after the vinegar cleaning but it started not working anymore did this and it works like a charm
You are my hero! My unit is an all in one and has only one power switch but the same board. I was getting the service light about 1 minute after starting (1 month into its 5th season of use). I first cleaned the terminals but no help. I followed your instructions and connected the red and white to the top screw and the two blacks to the bottom screw. I have been using it in FP mode (filter pump) because it will at least filter and not shut off with service error. So when I powered it up it was still in FP mode but I had chlorine flow big time. I am so happy. I shopped on line to buy a new one but all the big online and big box stores are sold out. With your help now I don't need to buy a new one. I am going to get a external timer since the internal one doesn't work in FP mode. Thank you so much!!!!!
Awesome!!
Thanks a million! I have the newer version but it looked almost the same. What was confusing to me was that you had already moved the wires. Before moving anything, the red wire is on the 12V slot. After this hack both black wired go to the 12v slot and the red and white wires go to the CL+ slot. Now I'm cranking out chlorine! Thanks so much!
Mike. Thanks for the video. Years ago I learned how to fix the pump bearings since they would go out after warranty. I am now on my 3rd 8110. So glad I found you video since we've have 98 degree days now and oddly enough way too much rain for July. My wires were a bit different from yours like someone else mentioned but you were right, it's all the same. Thanks for helping save my pool and my money.
Scott Mathews thanks Scott! It would be a great addition if you shared how to replace the bearing and how much it costs with us!
Before doing this, try and flip either the generator cells plug, or the sensor plug. They must be the same polarity to work with the circuitry. I had this error with 5000 ppm of salt and knew it was something simple. The autonomous operation of the intex unit is why I use it, i got this system to avoid timers and management and it works great.
This reply just saved me a lot of aggravation.
Nice still works ! Tnx
I’d like to know exactly what you mean as well. If I can leave the wiring normal and fix this issue I’d rather do that. The hot wire is working but I’m worried about how long it’ll last.
So what exactly did you do!
Thank u so much , mine did this after 6 years of owning it , and how summer almost finish i didn’t want to buy a new until next year and this fix work like a charm , at first like u said it was a little confusing with all the cables , im bad with electrical things , but i did it yayyyy 😂
Wow wow wow,you save my life this summer brother....I did it right now and it working perfect!!!!.....bless you my friend!!!!!
Thank you for your video had always worked with vinegar and proper salt but the 91 kept coming. I Did your steps in video 10 minutes later working great. Thanks for posting
You just saved me from what was a nightmare trying to get our saltwater system working. Thank you so much! I tried a million things and this FINALLY worked. I was almost ready to give up and take our pool down for the season until we could afford a new saltwater system. Now I don't have to!!
So glad it worked foe you!
I've had my Intex CS8110 for 3 years now and this spring got the dreaded low salt (code91) so I cleaned copper plus the titanium plates and still got the low salt red light. I followed your instructions to hot wire the unit and it works like a charm. Thank you for saving me $150.00 plus the frustration that I don't have anymore.
Thank you .. this worked for me to . mine was a little newer unit so the wires were different , just in different order . the one thing I found out is that the fan will still run but not for a long time ,and then the service light comes on but it still makes chlorine , I added the two wires from the ECO ELECTRODS to the white and back on the connections I changed , also that is working the same time as the titanium plates making the chlorine ... I went a little further , I opened up the control box on my intex pump and found the 120v connections that came on when the pump came on and added about a 12'' cord with plug so I could plug the chlorinator in to it .. so now when my pump comes on my chlorinator does to .. wish I could post some pic's of it ... but it seems to work great .. thanks again ...
kipps5000 wish you could have posted that so I could see how it was done. That way I would not have to worry about turning the chlorinater on and off until I get my timer.
Just got done bypassing works great!! Thank you I was getting pretty frustrated with this system, I was ready to buy a new one! saved me 125.00 bucks
Had low salt reading and cleaning with vinegar wouldn't resolve. You are the master! This totally worked and reading chlorine at the water outlet. Thanks so much for this video!
Thanks a lot. This hack saved the day. It’s impossible to get replacement electrodes right now and sellers are price-gouging new units, if they happen to have one available.
Thank you so much! I was going to throw my saltwater pump out but found your video and now it’s working great.
Awesome!
I followed your instructions and it worked very well. I am producing more chlorine than when the unit worked and didn't give me a warning. Almost bought a new one. Thanks so much for the hack. YOU ARE AWESOME!!
shimi katz so glad I could help save you money $$ just remember to check chlorine and salt levels yourself now : )
I NEVER comment on videos, but I can't say thank you enough for sharing this.....I have been struggling with that service light since the end of last season and almost caved and bought a new unit right before i found this video. Thank you!!!
awesome! I'm glad I could save you money! feels good to beat the system!
We did this and have no more error codes to deal with. SWG runs great now. Thank you from a fellow teacher.
Carole Ray your welcome! Good luck going back to school!
Yup, it worked, I actually have an older model, 8 years old and the wires are the same. Thanks for the great video, have a nice day.
Thank you sir for this video, got my salt water system working again. Side note for fellow youtubers, please watch the video until the end. Otherwise you will think this method does not work 😉.
Glad it worked for you!
Thanks Michael! Awesome video that ended up saving me money. From one DIY guy to another, that outdoor kitchen looks Awesome!!!
CAUTION: Typically you have a several second delay between the initial green light, once illuminated IMMEDIATELY push your BOOST button and hold. It will generally stay illuminated until the faulty LOW SALT kicks in several seconds later. AS SOON as you get the fully illuminated BOOST light, look at the left electrode....IF NO BUBBLES....your issue can be anything from dirty electrodes (remove and inspect for sediment can be soaked in pure white vinegar for 2 hours up to overnight to clean), internal failure of the main unit, to the left and right or left or right electrode failure. Since the INTEX parts are non refundable typically, rather than gamble the $140 for the electrodes, you are safer to just purchase a new unit. IF ON THE OTHER HAND you see the chemical reaction bubbles on the left electrode, this video offers a great easy fix. One last item.....check the left electrode each time that unit is powered on to make sure you see the bubbles As Mike Lee indicated. When the bubbles stop the electrodes need cleaning or replacement or the primary unit has failed. With Mike's suggestion we got an extra 2 years out of our system...but alas....after that the primary system failed and unit needed to be replaced. Thanks Mike for the great HOW TO.
Thanks for this video Michael. This is the first one for this unit I've seen that actually was practical and explains exactly what to do. My unit is now again producing chlorine. My only questions is does this also hard wire the copper element as well for the agaecide production when it is powered on? I need to get the green out!
your welcome! I'm pretty sure the copper works hand and hand with the chlorinator. it's a chemical process to extract to turn NaCl into chlorine
Yes it works! Just was quoted $1,200+ 200 labor for a new Jandy salt system from my pool guy. This cost me -0- and about 5 mins. Was feeding my pool a ton of chlorine tablets, shock, everything you could imagine. Now I don't have to. Just keeping an eye on my chlorine levels with my little simple 5-way test kit. Never had any luck with the strips as you get a different reading every time(even 5mins later}. Bottom line, I saved 1400$. I'll take that anyday!
Gary Leonard awesome to hear it!! You will still need to monitor salt levels also!
Michael Lee
Ok. Have a digital salt meter on the way now!
Thanks for this video! Water had gotten in and corroded a couple of the components on the circuit board. I re-wired it the way you showed and it worked!
Even a girl can do this! Thanks Michael in less than 10 minutes my pump is producing chlorine again. Much appreciated you took the time to make this video.
Connie Townsend Yes! Anyone can do it! Im glad it worked for you!
I have been fighting Algae and low salt all summer-KNOWING my salt wasn’t low…I tried cleaning in vinegar and that didn’t work…we’ll see how this one goes! Thank you for this video!
So I’ve done thus, and it’s running like you show in your video, but my chlorine level is not getting any higher…it’s been 4 days and has been running nonstop fir the last 24+ hours…I’m not so sure this is working…
First question......when you look at the electrodes inside the clear tube can you see little white stuff coming off of it and into the stream? If so, than it is producing chlorine. If not, the salt level might be off.
2nd- If you don't have any chlorine present you might want to use a bag of Shock to Jumpstart the chlorine.
3- Remember you still have to maintain the correct level of Salt in the pool in order for your chlorinator to work! You need to get a saltwater tester. Or just bring a sample down to your local pool place. PH is very important in avoiding algae.
4- if your pool has zero chlorine (check chlorine level with tester) than your machine probably can't produce it gast enough to keep up. You might need to add some shock or chlorine and stabilizer to initially get the water where it needs to be. Than the chlorinator should be able to supply the extra it needs to keep it right.
Hope this helps!
God bless
@@mikeleeslifehacks My salt level is right in fact it’s a little bit high but there was zero chlorine… I added two 1 pound bags of shock last night and had it running for 36 hours (there was the white running in the stream) and I appear to be at the correct chlorine level now so I’ll just have to check it and make sure that it maintains
Thank you again for this!!!
You couldn't be more correct about Intex. Their customer support is pitiful. Thanks for posting, you saved me hella money and frustrations! You rock
Becca Woolley your welcome! glad I could help : )
Have had the same problem with 8 bags of salt in the pool, still showed low salt. Just wired it this way and its producing chlorine like crazy !!! Thanks Bro !!!
glad i could help! You probably won't need to add salt for a looooong time! : )
You are awesome, worked like a charm, this is the third summer I had my CS8110, it would not read my salt levels anymore(chemical levels read all good) this year after cleaning it with CLR and vinegar. Do you know if there is power going to the copper electrode? that kills algae by preventing algae growth. Thanks
Dude... you saved the day. And a couple hundred bucks! You rock!!
My husband did this to ours this morning after our maintenance light kept coming on even after cleaning etc... this worked perfectly!!Thanks so much for sharing!
Awesome! Glad it worked for you!
I have been using these units and getting a couple of years out of each one. I have kept all my old units. This solution works great and will let me get more life out of my units. I would just like to suggest you have to do wire as shown. Someone else posted that it does not matter and this wrong. IF you try and put a red and black and white and black together your unit will short out. The way Michael has done it, will correctly creating a circuit and the unit will work, otherwise you do have the potential for a fire.
How did you find out the wiring diagram for your saltwater chlorination pump. The one I have has a capacitor right above the cooling fan. I wired mine up like you did but not sure if it works the same.
YOU ARE THE BEST! I thought I was going to have to buy another unit- of course I'd just have the same problem 3 months later. Mine didn't even make it one season before I had issues.
Shawna McNulty your welcome! hope you get a long life put of it!
This video was great, my chlorinator stopped working for me right after the warranty expired. I went through all of the steps that you described, and hooked up the wires exactly as you showed. And my salt cell unit appears to be producing chlorine...it's foamy/bubbly, exactly the same way it was when it was brand new. It looks like it's working perfectly. However, when I test my water in the pool, the test doesn't show any chlorine in the water. And the water doesn't smell like chlorine. I have let the unit run for several days in a row, basically in "boost" mode the entire time. I have fully cleaned the salt cells with vinegar. Everything looks fine, but no chlorine seems to be present in the pool water. Should I have hooked the wires up slightly differently than what is prescribed in this video? I'm so confused as to why chlorine doesn't seem to be produced at this point. Does the ionizer (the first cell that the water passes over) need to be wired differently? Thanks for any help!
Mike, appreciate the knowledge. Dealing with #Walmart and #Intex on these pumps has become ridiculous. Thanks for taking the time and transferring that knowledge!
Thanks so much for this video. Worked like a charm. My wiring went Black-White-Black-Red (top to bottom) and I put the two Blacks on the top and the White and Red on the bottom. Fan doesn't work now, but that's probably not a big deal. I just won't run it in the heat of the day. Thanks again!
You Rock teacher!!!! It worked for mine ....So how do you "Boost" when needed?????? And Yes may GOD bless America!!!! Thank you so much for being a one man swat team out there being a teacher!!!!
Thank you for your kind words! The boost just leaves the saltwater on longer. It doesn't do anything special!
If you need more chlorine just let it run longer!
God bless!
@@mikeleeslifehacks Thank you so much...
91 code is the bane of my existence. I’m bout to hijack my system! Thanks for sharing
This should work!
Thanks so much. You saved me a few hundred bucks and aggravation. I was ready to throw it out and found your video. I have the 8110.
This video has helped many people! Glad it worked for you!
We have model cs7110. Unit was working fine for third season, then we had a power surge for some reason and the pump (on timer mode) shut off and the saltwater system had low salt light. I switched it off and back on, and then got the service light. We tried everything. Finally we tried your “hot-wiring” back and we have chlorine. I am happy now. 😁 hopefully it won’t burn up the unit. I will get a new one if they ever become available again without paying an arm and a leg. (Thank you Coronavirus!) I was so disappointed out possibly having to use chlorine in my pool. It’s expensive for one thing and a pain to have to keep adding chemicals. I am hoping it will last me brought the summer at least.
How long did yours work without problems, if I may ask?
Thank you for the video!
Make sure to run it at night and put it on a timer that matches the pool pump timer! Happy swimming!
I'm used to cleaning with vinegar every week when prompted by the low salt warning, and that has worked fine for a couple of years. This time the warning wont go away after a thorough clean. Well it works for 10 mins, then fails. I've even added more salt as you never know...a low salt warning could for once actually mean low salt! I've cleaned my pump & sand filter thoroughly and i'm now getting a very high pressure, and i was wondering if it's simply pushing water through too fast for the sensors to cope with. I know during that 10 minutes of operation its working fine as there's a white bubbly stream of chlorine from the outlet. I know all I need is a way of keeping the thing running, so this hack is perfect, thank you!
Wow!! Thank you so much!! Just did this myself... Easy easy and saved me so much money.. And my sanity!!
thank you sir. you're my hero who saved my pool party.
I'm glad it worked for you!
Mike: You may not need to do this jumping trick to beat Code 91. Instead, simply reverse the polarity in the plates so it reads the buildup on the opposite side of the plates. This takes 30 seconds to do -- just unscrew and unplug the plug to the electrode plate, turn it around and plug it back in. This should cause it to read the other side of the plate which doesn't have the buildup. I've done it and it lasts several weeks then when light comes back on I switch it back. But great video for those who need to jump it. Thank you for making it.
Interesting.... you should make a video!
Mike Lee's Life Hacks you my friend have saved me $100’s!! Thank you! This video didn’t help but tried reversing the Polarity and it worked!
Cancel that. Not working. 😕 Back to square one.
I'm experiencing the same problems with my newer version after only 5 weeks. I'm getting an "error 92" high salt reading when the salt level is actually on little on the low side. After opening the unit I can see it has a different but very similar circuit board and wiring configuration. After removing the sensors from the clear plastic tube and dangling them in a tub of salt water I turned the system on to take some voltage and current measurements. I first eliminated the flow sensor as being the culprit. It is working normally. I then monitored the titanium electrode and noticed that it was fizzing nicely and I could smell the chlorine very strongly so I suspect it is not the problem. Using a voltmeter and a current meter I measured the voltage across the titanium sensor to be initially 5.89Vdc @ 2.60A rising after a few seconds to 9.63Vdc @ 8.54A. The E.C.O. electrode on the other hand seems to be doing nothing. The voltage across it remains at 4.2Vdc @ 0.73A with no bubbles or fizzing at all. I noticed as well that with the E.C.O. electrode disconnected (now unloaded the voltage at the terminals rises to 14.0Vdc), I will get a "error 91" for low salt indication. Reconnecting the sensor gives me a "error 92" high salt indication. From this I'm guessing that it is the current through the E.C.O. electrode (resistance through the E.C.O. electrode changes with salt level, higher current means higher salt level), that triggers the high or low salt indication. I surmise as well that it may be a faulty E.C.O. electrode. Can anyone add to this?
Hi Mike thanks for the video. I did it as well. One question does the system produce "the boost" automatically?...thanks
Alex D the boost is just a feature that runs the chlorinator for like 20 hours. You can run it as much as you need too
mine is the sand salt combo 16000 gallons per hour krystal klear combo, my pool is 15,300 gallons IF i figured it right 22 foot round by 52 inches deep. salt reading is 3470ppm. I constantly get low salt red light no code 91 or 92 etc beeps for about 10 minutes. I cleaned both electrodes for 20 minutes in white vinegar. still no chlorine. Is it feasible to add chlorine bleach daily until I figure it out? Plates might be bad, the system is 4 years old! thanks
Thank you for the no frills tutorial!!!! My 14 year old son just hot wired our system back into working order! Awesome fix. Thanks a bunch Mr Michael Lee
Question though-should we keep the unit turned on so that the "heat sink fan" continues to keep the system cool? One of your commenters had mentioned to do this.
ua-cam.com/video/QJdDBeLyVWQ/v-deo.html our video and question. Thanks again!
Michael, I was about one day from buying one of those 300.00 monster Intex salt systems. Mine was stuck on low salt ever since I installed a bigger pump. I tried every trick I could think of and all the other You Tube video tricks. Yours was last resort, but should have been first out of the shoot. You would have saved me all the chlorine tablets that I have been using for the past year. Next time I will trust you sooner. 👍🏼. Thank you. Now we will have a non red eye 4th of July.
Paul Ragusa small correction to your statement but not trying to be rude. It is not the 4th of July it is Independence Day
Thanks for your advise , you save me a few hard earned dollars, I was getting high salt code and changed 20% with fresh water and still getting same 92 error so I followed you instructions and it work, Intex company will gonna hate you jajajajajajaja.
Great video, works perfectly. I control mine with a timer and leave it in the on position so the cooling fan still comes on while running.
Thank you so much this saved our season the price of a new system is crazy.👍🙂
Im so glad it worked for you! The price of pool stuff is insane rn! Happy swimming!
You are the solution to ALL of these being sent back or thinking they don't work. Thanks
OMG!! You are the best!! Thank you so much!! You saved us money on replacement!
I just tried that to my chlorinator. Let’s see if it works. Great video 👍🏾
Thanks! worked great!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was about 10 minutes from ordering a new one after cleaning it 3 times.
Jason Roznos glad I could help! should prolong the life for awhile!
You rock! I followed your video and fixed my generator! I couldn't be happier, Thanks!
Another satisfied viewer! : )
thx
I am a single mom, who does everything I can to save money. I bought this $1000 pool in May of 2016. I am not a pool person but for the kid......well, you know. All summer I have fought green colors and low salt. I was about to drop $320 because I have a self contained unit, pump, chlorinator and sand filter together. After watching your video and figuring out my wiring, I rewired it and BAMMMM!!! You are awesome. I am not sure how long it will work without burning out the system. But my plan is to rewire it back and use it just as a pump and buy a chlorinator for $140 which saves me $200! How great is that???
chasity treager sweet! Make sure you put it on a timer so it's not running 24/7. I matched my chlorinator time with my pump!
Great Video Mike. One question before I do the wire change. My model (Intex ECO8110) has the same look, but the wires are different colored: Top to bottom from your picture: 1Black 2White 3Black 4Red.. From your description it sounds like I should combine wires 2 with 1 and 3 with 4..Make sense? Thanks a bunch
Does this work with the newer version? Fixing to take it apart. Thanks for the video.
There has been comments about people with newer ones doing it. The motherboard might look a little different but the wiring should pretty much be the same
@@mikeleeslifehacks The wiring did look the same. It's work half ass. Doesn't seem to be producing much chlorine. Idk
Sometimes the machine just doesnt function properly so the hack doesn't work! You might have to get a new unit
Worked like a charm! Thanks for ending my daily frustration!
Thank you!!! My Intex pool is ECO20110, and the control head is mounted on the top of the pump. But I had the 91 error code fulltime, low salt signal, after bypassing as seen in your video, the on off switch and control panel still functions, the chlorine generator is generating and it's still saying low salt!!!!! But I have a digital salt detector and I don't hear as well as I used to so the beeping doesn't matter...... Thanks again
You should just turn the saltwater unit off! You won't have to deal with the error alarm and you should still produce chlorine
Hi! I am planning to plug the electrode directly to 3rd-party power supply. Could you say what voltage is needed?
Thanks! Just bought a Summer Waves Saltwater System Model#P5E00400000 and worked great for 2 weeks then started low salt warning BS. added salt nothing! etc.. Mine was a little different but same concept, took out the 12v + and - wires going to board. Then took 12v + and - wires from the cell and hooked them up directly to the power supply same spot where the main board wires were and Voila!
I wanted to say thank you for saving our summer! Thank you so much!!!
Thank you so much for great help.
It's working! Greetings from Austria.
So glad it worked! Arnold says , "chlorine won't be back!" 😁
Nice patio! Where did you get the outdoor curtains? You answered two questions in one! lol Mine (28669) never started making chlorine and I did not know how to check it. Never seen white water going through it. I need to get it exchanged. Thanks for the video!
John Toth thx! I bought the sheer curtains and made the other on one's. If your unit is new and never produced chlorine than you need too exchange it. If it's old and you've tried the hack and its not working than its probably time for a new one
Thanks Michael ! My Intex SWG is back to producing CL with your advice- I'm not "electrical minded" but your video instructions were clear- This might be a stretch, but the only alarm light I had was the "low salt"- code 91. Is there, by chance, a way, wiring wise, to bypass just the "low salt" , code 91 alarm?
In the mean time, I have the 3 prong timer, SWG in "off" position, running along with my pump/ sand filter, as advised -my pool is crystal clear.Thanks and you're back yard looks awesome and fun! Again, Thanks!
thanks! realistically, you don't even need to turn the chlorinator on! I leave mine off because the way I wire it I bypass the on off switch. you can leave the machine power off and and it will still produce chlorine if you have it plugged in.
hope that helps
you should still leave on the power switch because the cooling fan that is needed for cooling heat sink is not on when you have the switch off. even though it will still get codes it will not stop from creating free chlorine and the much needed fan will still work this will prevent premature heat sink fail due to overheat.
If the power switch is left on, will the system continue to beep once this hack is done?
Yes! It defeats the purpose! I run mine at night so cooling isn't an issue!
You sir are a genius. It worked like a charm.
Michael, you are a friggin genius. I can't thank you enough. I had poured so much salt in my pool I thought I was swimming in the ocean. Just curious, how did you figure out how to bypass those sensors.
thanks! lots of research!! definitely not from any UA-cam video! you will just need to check your chlorine and salt levels regularly!
Would this be the same for the newer models that are out
Yes
I want to thank you for posting this, I just did it and is working just like yours. Thanks again
Hello mike. I have the same system you have. I did everything you did in video but I don’t see any chlorine been produced but I don’t get a three prong timer I just got a regular 3 prong cord. Could this be the problem or do I just need a whole new system.?
Shermaneice Foster the timer shouldn't have any effect on chlorine production. If you wired it correctly and your not producing chlorine than you probably need a new system
Good for you Michael. Thanks for posting. I just bought a saltwater system pump for my new soon to be installed(by me) Intex pool. Nice to know incase my pump takes a crap. Thank you.
your welcome! hopefully you get 2-3: years out of it!
DUDE! I have an intex saltwater chlorinator that we've used for only a year. After fighting algae and super high PH for the last 3 months I took a water sample to a local pool store to get the water tested. His first comment to me, your chlorinator is not working. Sure enough, I was getting a low salt error. after soaking the cells overnight with no improvement, I watched your video. 20 minutes later I have chlorine flowing out like gangbusters. You rock! :)
thanks!! glad it worked for you!
Michael! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!! Worked like a charm :) Your the best...
Hey! trying to do this, how to Hotwire it??? thanks
Are we able to put it back while it is? Asking because in two weeks my new cell will come and I hope that fix the problem but I need this running ASAP
Yes you can reverse the wires
hello, i was wondering if replacing the cell fixed the issue im thinking in buying a new also
Not exactly sure what your asking? I think your asking if you can switch back the wires if you get a replacement cell and the answer is Yes! Just replace it back the way it was originally! Taking a photo will help you when you go to switching it back!
Thanks for a great how-to video! It's been about two months since you posted this, just curious if your unit is still producing chlorine as well as shown in the video. Thanks again.
Is the pump still going strong? I just did this to mine and was hoping to make her last! thanks for the hack
the chlorinator is completely separate than the pump. I upgraded my pump awhile ago to a large unit with sand filter
the boost feature only makes the chlorinator run longer. I believe the boost = 10-12 hours
Thanks a million for this video, helped me a lot. I'd tried about everything else before rewiring. However since i didn't see your original wiring conif it didn't turn out for me the first time. My machine has the 2 black wires at the top and the white and red at the bottom so thats the way i wired it,,, i didn't work. So i put the red and white wire at top and the 2 blacks at the bottom.closed the lid, flipped my power switch ( which controls the pump/sand filter and the SWG ) all the bells and whistles came to life,even the 91 code, but as i looked into the clear tube going to the pool, there were like a mist or flow of bubbles, which from what i have seen means its producing chlorine now... Once again many many thanks maybe it'll last out the rest of the year :D
awesome! if done correctly you shouldn't need to turn the power to the unit on! you just have to plug it in. that way you don't have to deal with the annoying warning sound. Anyway if it's working it's all good! happy chlorinating!
Thanks for the great tutorial - first one that actually helped! A question though - I did the bypass and it was making chlorine as you said, but only for about 10 minutes. Now nothing. The motor is still running, but no more bubbles. Has been that way for a few hours. Ideas?
Seth Baker you will still need to check your salt levels manually. the Chlorinator will no longer tell you if your low or high. you can buy salt test strips. sounds like you might be low on salt or may have tripped a circuit?
MIke - I rewired mine like you said, but get no power at all to the pump now. Any advice? I can send you pics if you tell me where to send them.
Great video, nice patio setup, "saved a little money doing it yourself" more like saved a ton of money, based on what u spent and wouldve cost, would love something like that if youre ever in lehigh valley, PA lol
Bo Knows Thanks Bo!
This worked! Thank you for figuring this out and postng it.
glad I could help. make sure you don't scrub the cells. just soak and rinse good. must of the calcium should just fall off
Awesome - just got that service light and will definitely try this out.
So, I'm totally at my wits end and about to do EXACTLY this. It is currently tore apart. My question is, since this video is 5 years old, how long did it last? Even though my plates looked clean, I did the vinegar soak. My pool supply store said my salt level was high (using test strips), my intex says low. I even attempted to reverse the plug on the titanium plates on the left, the low salt warning went away and the high salt warning started.
Just like any appliance, all salt water units are different. There is no label on them that says how long they will last. If yours is dead than if it last 3 months that's long enough to get you through summer! Mine lasted 2 summers after the hack