The Incredible Long Wall Classic, Rock Wars - Trad Climbing in the Red River Gorge.
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Climbs as beautiful as it looks. The stunning Rock Wars is really nothing more then quality layback for days. Don't let the grade or type of climbing dissuade you, you pretty much have gear options at every point along the way.
Absolutely worth the arduous hill you have to climb to get to Long wall (steep but not to long).
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[meta]
name:Rock Wars
pitch:1
style:Trad
area:Red River Gorge
wall:Long Wall
grade:5.10a
You know it's hard when Seth doesn't run it out 40ft and spend time extending every placement with triple length runners hahaha
Tom Siders probably put that up before you boys were even alive
One of my coolest memories rock climbing was lowering over that flake system out left and a colony of flying squirrels came out and flew over my wife's (girlfriend at the time) head sitting on the adjacent giant boulder.
The 'ol Black Totem crux savior 🖤
Wait, this cant be Seth. He’s actually placing nuts!
FPB has single handedly killed more onsights than all the shirtless boulder bros spraying at their highest capacity
This made me chuckle.
I slipped and fell 2 feet from the chains on this route. Devastating. Hahah.
always excited when a new video shows. Always nice watch first person climbing videos after your climbing day
I was always hesitant to place stoppers on this route. I’ve read that the flake can flex enough that they can pull out.
One of your better videos of late - always fun to see a bit of a battle. Reminds me of your cruel sister video!
heard the story of the group driving the tour bus through the underpass? wonderful route....
Definitely on my list the next time I'm at the red.
Beautiful line! Must do.
It used to be 9+ the bolt holes at that first ledge. Then they chopped those and extended it, taking the grade to 10a. It's busy up there. Good one!
Wait but 10a would be a downgrade from 9+ though.
Man, this one looked tough! Great job, Seth
Awesome climb! Really enjoyed that!
"This would feel awesome if my fingers were just a little smaller!" *everyone looks at their fingers*
Tom Souders' climbs are pretty good. Maybe try "The Perforator"
This was my first 10, such a good climb! Did you get on vector trouble? That's another amazing line at that crag.
Hardest 10a ever. The top traverse is so pumpy. And hell to clean!
As always for trad in the Red...looks stiff! Nice climb.
Autumn is another Long wall goodie, hopefully you got on it while you were there. A lesser climbed line at Long is Mailbox, which is easy at first with a solid crux at the top.
Did them both though really wasn't a fan of mailbox (Autumn on the other hand was amazing).
Great video! I just watched your vids on horizontal cam placements, any chance you know if a red or orange totem would've slipped out of your manufactured crack like the C4s did?
No clue, I didn''t have the Totems when I made the video, though they have a lot more going on and don't work on exactly the same model I featured in the video.
I saw the roof crack system above rock wars and it made me wonder if anyone has freed that. Got any knowledge of that?
So much for making your first pro (or 2) multi-directional..... you uhhh lika de zippa?
If your belayer is standing in the correct position under the first piece then the force of fall is still downward. Secondly, some nut placements lock in quite well and can provide multidirectional support.
Are nuts preferred on this route due to the flake? Would cams be more likely to flex the flake?
@@tedslusser2817 I'll take a good nut over a cam any day. I'm also always reluctant to put cams behind flakes unless it's the only thing that works.
@@FlatOutFE you can have a zipper effect from above too if lets say you place another cam/nut and then take a fall, meaning the first nut experiences an upwards pull and may get yanked out. Suddenly you are only hanging on one piece of gear. I always make a point to place a cam first! I do buy the "no cams behind hollow flakes" argument though!
@@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx that typically only happens if your belayer is standing too far away from the wall or the route is very overhanging. When possible the belayer should be close to wall. Your point has merit in that sometimes the belayer cannot be directly below the route (or shouldn't be for safety reasons). In my opinion, the nut was the right call in this situation and that it locked in very well. He had a cam as a backup of second placement.
Good job. Did this way back in the day. Don’t if it’s true but, I heard David Lee Roth ( of Van Halen) used to climb and while they were in the area took their tour bus through the Nada tunnel so he could do this rt.
A Classic for sure