Thanks for another great episode. The third reason I like a caul is for uniform flatness. But I'll look into the vacuum press, I know you have to have one if you want to do an ES-335 style ply top/back guitar.
Your videos were the first ones before I started out building my own guitars. I still come back checking whether I‘m on the right track. Still the best Information and explanation out here on YT! Thanks so much!
I can see how the vacuum method would be great for multiple glueups for necks and for veneer tops for a uniform gluing pressure. What about cleaning glue run out in the bags? Very professional instructional video. Thanks.
Some vacuum kits also include layers of felt and paper to place between the part and the bag in order to prevent adhesion. This is the same system used for manufacturing surfboards and carbon fiber parts for sailboat racing, and in some cases, certain kits can actually evacuate the bag, then use the vacuum to pull epoxy resin into the joint, that way you're ensured of absolutely zero air bubbles in your epoxy matrix. Total overkill for a fretboard, but all that is to say that vacuum pressure is totally the way to go if you're looking for a foolproof system.
Good question. I have been researching this for a while. I know several of the big manufacturers use it. But because I have so many custom necks...I'm not sure if it would be best for me. Maybe I'll try someday. But until then...I like using a vacuum bag.
Do you see any issues vacuum clamping if the neck profile has already been shaped? I will try it soon but not sure if the neck will bend when under pressure. I don't think it will since the pressure is uniform but I'm not sure.
Had to pause while you're holding the bottle of Titebond Polyurethane telling us it cannot be released with heat. Yes, it can. I did it yesterday. I had to take the Richlite board off an early neck I made and the regular iron & spatula trick worked just as well as it does with PVA.
Interesting...that was not my experience. Are you sure it was the glue that gave up with heat? And not the Richlite board? I have seen poor adhesion situations with Richlite fretboards before.
Cool video. I like the vacuum approach. I noticed the comment about glue on truss rod and you used a squeegee. Question: if you put the 1/2” tape over the rod and left it there, but with a 1/4”piece of tape reversed down it’s center to eliminate the tacky part touching the rod, would that be worth trying in your opinion?
Sure. But seems like you are over thinking things. If you use just enough glue...and not too much...there shouldn't be any problems. Normally I put the glue on the nick side...but because my alignment pins were there...it was quicker to spread it on the fretboard. I usually don't do it that way. As I mentioned...the biggest mistake I see is too much glue...and forgetting to remove tape when used.
A bit off topic, but you don't have a problem with getting glue on/in the truss rod location? I've seen some say to avoid that by only gluing around the rod.
True. I was doing a speed test for the video...so I cut some corners for the sake of time. However, if you watch closely...you will see me squeegee the center of the fretboard to clean off the glue from the area of the fretboard that will be directly above the truss rod. So, I did take the glue into count. What I do most of the time is place a 1/2" wide piece of tape over the truss rod...then glue the neck side. The only thing you have to watch out for is forgetting to remove the tape! Although I will say that many people that complain about glue in the truss rod cavity are using too much glue. A little film of wood glue is going to cause the truss rod to get stuck.
That is correct. Although if I was working with oily woods and thought epoxy would be better to use...I would be very careful about not allowing it seep into the truss rod slot.
Also, the poly glue can be a poor choice... check out Ben Crowe's video about how polyurethane glue failed on his fretboards: ua-cam.com/video/3l8Yw0-Nz1A/v-deo.html
Also also, if you like deep dives you may be interested in James Wright's deep dive on glue strength. Polyurethane does not score well. ua-cam.com/video/ZbxIpMUl_5A/v-deo.html
Not satisfied... WHY have you not yet performed a nuclear test? 😎
Finally...a great question. 😉
Hello, great video. Do you think it would be possible to do a veneer top with a complete set neck guitar in a large vaccume bag?
Thank you.
Great video,I’ve learned a lot.Pretty funny with the glue surviving a nuclear blast hahaha
awesome in-depth serious!
Thanks Amit...glad to see you are still part of my channel.
Great glue and clamping deep drive.
I think that there are pros and cons...but it is fun to explore the possibilities. Thanks for your comments.
Well done!
Well...it's not a White Phalanx video. ;-)
i just wrap them in surgical tubing
Thanks for another great episode. The third reason I like a caul is for uniform flatness. But I'll look into the vacuum press, I know you have to have one if you want to do an ES-335 style ply top/back guitar.
Thanks John. True about the flatness...that is part of the process of dispersing the force...but I get what you as saying.
but you can’t use a vacuum press with a neck that has an angled headstock…unless you make some kind of serious jig to hold it while in the bag
INCORRECT. I use a bag without a platan…equal pressure all around without any stress on the angled headstock.
Your videos were the first ones before I started out building my own guitars. I still come back checking whether I‘m on the right track. Still the best Information and explanation out here on YT! Thanks so much!
Thank you for the kind words. I find it harder and harder to find new content to discuss. So much has already been covered in the UA-cam world.
Rubber bands could also be a good alternative for clamping
True...good point. Thanks for watching...and your comment.
* approximately 15 pounds per square inch...ABSOLUTE. lol, couldn't help myself.
I like to leave myself wiggle room and avoid absolutes. 80% of the time it works every time. 😉
@@maximumguitarworks a wise man will GAUGE and consider the viewpoints of other so I will meditate on this.
I can see how the vacuum method would be great for multiple glueups for necks and for veneer tops for a uniform gluing pressure. What about cleaning glue run out in the bags? Very professional instructional video. Thanks.
Glue does not stick well to the bag. You can clean it easily. However, as you can see...minimal squeeze out is preferable.
Some vacuum kits also include layers of felt and paper to place between the part and the bag in order to prevent adhesion.
This is the same system used for manufacturing surfboards and carbon fiber parts for sailboat racing, and in some cases, certain kits can actually evacuate the bag, then use the vacuum to pull epoxy resin into the joint, that way you're ensured of absolutely zero air bubbles in your epoxy matrix.
Total overkill for a fretboard, but all that is to say that vacuum pressure is totally the way to go if you're looking for a foolproof system.
what do you think of pressing with a fireman's hose with compressed air and the use of rubber strips?
Good question. I have been researching this for a while. I know several of the big manufacturers use it. But because I have so many custom necks...I'm not sure if it would be best for me. Maybe I'll try someday. But until then...I like using a vacuum bag.
Do you see any issues vacuum clamping if the neck profile has already been shaped? I will try it soon but not sure if the neck will bend when under pressure. I don't think it will since the pressure is uniform but I'm not sure.
Had to pause while you're holding the bottle of Titebond Polyurethane telling us it cannot be released with heat. Yes, it can. I did it yesterday. I had to take the Richlite board off an early neck I made and the regular iron & spatula trick worked just as well as it does with PVA.
Interesting...that was not my experience. Are you sure it was the glue that gave up with heat? And not the Richlite board? I have seen poor adhesion situations with Richlite fretboards before.
Cool video. I like the vacuum approach. I noticed the comment about glue on truss rod and you used a squeegee. Question: if you put the 1/2” tape over the rod and left it there, but with a 1/4”piece of tape reversed down it’s center to eliminate the tacky part touching the rod, would that be worth trying in your opinion?
Sure. But seems like you are over thinking things. If you use just enough glue...and not too much...there shouldn't be any problems. Normally I put the glue on the nick side...but because my alignment pins were there...it was quicker to spread it on the fretboard. I usually don't do it that way. As I mentioned...the biggest mistake I see is too much glue...and forgetting to remove tape when used.
So if the glue states that the maximum clamping pressure shouldn't exceed 300psi....what are the ramifications of using 3000psi?
3000 was not per square inch...but total force.
@@maximumguitarworks ahhh, ok. Too much for my pea brain to comprehend, I'll stick with "it works good" haha. Thanks!
As usual, another great video. Thank you for doing these.
Thanks Mike!
Great episode
A bit off topic, but you don't have a problem with getting glue on/in the truss rod location? I've seen some say to avoid that by only gluing around the rod.
True. I was doing a speed test for the video...so I cut some corners for the sake of time. However, if you watch closely...you will see me squeegee the center of the fretboard to clean off the glue from the area of the fretboard that will be directly above the truss rod. So, I did take the glue into count. What I do most of the time is place a 1/2" wide piece of tape over the truss rod...then glue the neck side. The only thing you have to watch out for is forgetting to remove the tape! Although I will say that many people that complain about glue in the truss rod cavity are using too much glue. A little film of wood glue is going to cause the truss rod to get stuck.
@@maximumguitarworks Thanks for the reply. Btw, I assume the last line you meant to say "isn't going to cause the truss rod to get stuck"?
That is correct. Although if I was working with oily woods and thought epoxy would be better to use...I would be very careful about not allowing it seep into the truss rod slot.
Great video, I enjoy your deep-dives. Where do you get your titanium spoke wheels? Thanks!
Also, the poly glue can be a poor choice... check out Ben Crowe's video about how polyurethane glue failed on his fretboards: ua-cam.com/video/3l8Yw0-Nz1A/v-deo.html
Also also, if you like deep dives you may be interested in James Wright's deep dive on glue strength. Polyurethane does not score well. ua-cam.com/video/ZbxIpMUl_5A/v-deo.html
I had them custom made by Tatsuta of Japan. Pretty high end solution.