Glad to have discovered this channel but sad to discover that John is no longer with us. May he forever remain immortalized by his very educative and innovative videos. Rest In Peace John, I hope to meet you in heaven
Excellent informational video John. I designed a house with the entire roof (single slope, south facing) covered with a trickle down system, during my second year of architectural drafting. The only difference was that the arrays I had used were flat black piping with photovoltaic cells covering the bottom of the enclosures to generate current for the pumps and the surplus to charge high density batteries along with small wind turbines.
Totally enjoyed your film! We have now begun our second year of solar panels and having recouped our outlay on the water heater power diverting system are enjoying free hot water deep into October and having had the sunniest January this year have been at it for 10 months in southern England!!!
Nice work John, great detailed video that leaves me in no doubt how to progress my own system, and your audio is clear and easily understood... exactly what I want from a technical documentary.
Don't listen to these so and so's who say that your voice is boring or they don't care for the intro, they are likely government trolls that want to see us all become ever increasingly dependent on them and all the things that are destroying this planet! These are FANTASTIC ideas and solid science! And I assure you, the more intelligent people here are appreciating and thinking about the ideas and ideals you are pressing forth. And DON'T quiet down about these issues! If things continue the way they are going, I think there'll be no possibility of recovering the planet within 100 years with the population increasing exponentially! ~love, one smart lady
Hey guys, don't forget the wonderful IBCs. My homebuilt gasifier wood stove stores heat in a 330g IBC that then distributes to radiators. A copper coil in the IBC heats the domestic hot water. like the drums the IBC will handle 150F easily. I have an alarm set to 155F or at least I am about to. Controllers should be here today. Ck out my build vids under fiskfarm. 2nd Winter and working GREAT. More vids on operation and fire tools, etc. coming soon. Thanks John for sharing. Lots of great advice here. Great music to boot!
I am impressed with the concepts and innovation. Thank You. It is a disappointment that some humans are so critical of others of the same species. It is a matter of opinion and some have no innovation or little personal talent so they choose to belittle others who have developed those traits and characteristics. Kudos to you Sir, for your efforts to educate others on a sometimes difficult subject matter to understand due to the science and engineering of the systems and implementation. Hats off!
Half a million views. Well done. I would like to reiterate the note of caution about using plastic parts in a solar hot water system. While doing my research for my solar hot water system, I ran across a "lessons learned" document based on analysis of systems installed in the 1980s. One of the take away lessons was to only build these systems out of durable materials like metal, glass, and concrete. Other materials like plastic and wood are typically poor choices for these hot/wet environs.
Guys, not everybody is a born storyteller. This guy obviously reads what he has written down and kudos to him. I don't see any of you making better or any vids for that matter.
this is cool I can't tell you how many of these drums I chucked out. We use them for Prop Glyol for refrigeration. This is a neat relatively cheap Idea.
Oops! Typo on that final sentence, this makes more sense. Thermal mass and adequate insulation are the key factors and you've helped me a lot with the thermal layering problem. Cheers! :)
Really good information , sounds like you studied it thoroughly. Most of us just want to build something like that if it works really good. I might say it would help to say it in common terms in the next video. We appreciate the detail though.
Whatever was missing in form - was more than compensated for in substance. That seems to have escaped the “FORM” people. I really enjoyed this video and hope to see more like it! P.S. Like to see the critics do better!
I did essentially the same thing with 1,500 gallons and 34 Evac tube collectors in a commercial application and found that trying to maintain stratification proves far less effective then merely increasing the flow rate through the collectors. more flow rate means lower DeltaT across the array and a more efficient collector for a longer period of the day. I used 3x 500 gallon Plastic Tanks and a VFD powered 3hp Pump to give me the flex to try different configs.
Good stuff John. I want to have a 720sq ft super insulated Quonset hut style SteelMaster house. With all the sunshine in my area this is my choice for heating not just the house but an additional greenhouse too. Thermo-siphoning would be handy during a power failure. I might put together a small system for a raised garden bed early spring and late fall crop for greens. Thermal mass and adequate insulation are the key factors and you've helped me a lot thermal layering problem. Cheers!
John, I have studied your experiments for quite some time now and have started to construct a 36 square foot 200 gallon SHW system. I will be using three poly drums in my basement connected together to stratify the hot water as you have outlined in this video. I will also be using a conventional natural gas water heater that has been converted for use as a heat exchanger to provide pre-heated water for my conventional electric hot water heater. The idea is that the collector will provide the hottest water to the inner tank core that has been capped off and provided with threaded taps to put hot collector water in the top and extract it from the bottom of the tank, heating the domesic supply water in the conventional part of the tank. That collector water would then travel through the three tanks before making it back to the collector. At night, a circulator will move the stored water through the pre-heater as needed, on demand in order to take advantage of the stored heat and keep the supply water pre-heated. I am wondering if you have any experience with converting natural gas water heaters for this purpose. Thank you.
I am using the same blue drums you show in your video. we use them at work to ship dialysis concentrates but these will not be used for the potable water. I do not know what the temp ratings are on these drums but we wash them in very steaming hot water prior to filling.
+John Canivan Thanks John. I understand polypropylene would be the way to go but these hdpe barrels were free for the asking. But if I may, my original question was if you had ever used a modified nat gas water heater tank as a heat exchanger. Somewhere I got the idea to run the hot collector water down through the hollow center of the tank. I'm not sure how efficient it will be, but it is simple, and cheap.
Nice info BUT John I hate you as I was listening intensely on headphones and the burst of music after 09:10 just about deafened me its just about guaranteed to wake any one up. I too use a solar heat collector and am just about to add a air source heat pump to the system with an extra 400 Imperial gallons of storage and your info on non turbulent layering is Very useful. Thanks
great video bud, your spot on btw ive worked for the oil industry and have been privy to certain knowledge, i think just about everyone knows were being kept in the dark on free energy. in the meantime we'll have to use methods like these to offset the ever increasing rise in the cost of living, thanks for sharing
The concept is right on. We think the concept can be achieved most efficiently when the solar array is connected to a cistern tank which is connected to a heat pump. This way we can maximize the delivery of the solar element because our heat sink in colder and larger that other systems.
Actually this is a relatively good presentation - it has a direction, theme, is concise and gives simple enough instruction. The fact some people are ADHD doesn't mean the thing they are incapable of paying attention to is bad.
Thanks, I found this very interesting. I have been looking at a system that has a small PV cell array in one corner of the solar collector to power a small pump that circulates the primary heat collection medium which can then be freeze-resistant to prevent damage to the collector during extreme winter periods when there may be insufficient sunlight.
That's the beauty of the drain-back system. You don't need glycol or an expansion tank, however, you do need a higher head pressure pump than what you would use with a pressurized system where the collector stays filled. I recommend reading up on this at builditsolar dtcm.
Great video. Next step is to insulate it with a larger piece of KD pipe, having reducers top and bottom to connect to the inner pipe above and below the copper line. You can also fill the empty void inside with many different things ranging from expansion foam to dirt; to make it even more efficient.
I'm thinking about adding solar heat to my home. I found a great deal on 330 gal totes the contained food grade silicone used to manufacture non stick baking items for $65 each. Their high capacity and square shape will make them easy to insulate. I want to run the circulation system off a few 100 watt solar panels as well now that solar panels are finally reasonable, around a buck a watt these days... I'd love to go totally off grid someday. Forklift batteries are the best deal going too, in stationary use they last nearly forever, 15 years easy. I've already upgraded all my appliances and lighting to high efficiency and led and only pay $58/mo on budget year round so the expenditure for the initial setup seems hard to justify at the moment. It would mainly be just to help the environment a little and the added bonus rush of not having a bill. Hopefully solar panels continue to fall in price. The planet could use a break too for sure...
I so much agree - a model for others - not a Beauty Parade for the presenter, rather a professional presentation. One item: Hot water isn't '' lighter'' than cold - it's not as dense - tho' your easy to understand explanation for the density change as temp rises is most welcome - t y.
Clive Adams Stratification is important because it reduces the amount of heat that can be stored per unit volume. It's like only having a half barrel instead of a full one. As far as it being expensive, it isn't. You can find these barrels for a very reasonable price.
John.... fantastic video.... I am very encouraged by what you have demonstrated here! I am now tempted to build a project. However I would be interested in knowing your thoughts on collecting hot ait and piping it through the house.
Hi John, Well done, good presentation for those interested to learn. Have you considered using coils of pex pipe in each tank? The idea being that the water (heat store) is not disturbed thereby allowing natural stratification, the coils can also allow the insertion of a second coil to draw off hot water from the store without the turbulence of a pump to disrupt the stratified layers. Just thinking out loud.
Excellent work in building the system and in making this video. However I have to disagree with the premise. Modular heat storage is unlikely to ever be as cost-efficient or energy-efficient as a single storage unit. Why? Surface Area. (SA) The surface area determines both the rate of heat loss, and the amount and cost of materials to build the system. The more SA, the more heat loss, and the more materials required to build it. The shape that encloses the most volume with the least SA is a sphere (which is hard to build), so the next best thing is a cylinder tank of roughly equal height and diameter (an approximate sphere.) The third-best choice would be a cube, and the fourth best would be a rectangular tank. A modular system (several small containers) will always have much more SA than a single large container of an equal volume, so not only will a modular system lose heat faster, it will cost more because it will require more total material mass, and also require more materials in terms of plumbing connections & fittings. A single large tank would require only one set of fittings, whereas a lot of small tanks requires many sets of fittings (with many more chances for leaks.) It is not easier to assemble, it will not cost less, and it will not perform as well. And a modular system will probably occupy more floor area because of all the unused space in between the modules. (Solar collectors are the opposite: they require high surface area with the least possible enclosed volume. Thats why they're flat & thin.) For a heat storage system, get as close to a sphere as you can. A single large cylinder tank is almost always the best choice in terms of performance, materials cost, ease of construction. For a modular system to be advantageous, there have to be extenuating circumstances that override the above considerations. Such as if you can get the drums for free. But of course that's a method that will only work for one or a few people in the underground economy, it will not work on large scales, so cannot be expected to be part of a sustainable society.
To reduce turbulence I highly recommend you install some straw filters into your pickup and fill tubes. These are nothing more than a bundle of plastic straws fitted down into the dip tubes so the water has to pass through all the straws This creates more laminar flow, forming a more coherent stream.
Interesting! I'm in the process(well, thought process) of designing a solar water heating system for both the home and an aquaponics system. A 'daisy chain' of tanks could prove very useful! Some people complain about the expense of setting up such a system. Sadly, they fail to see the benefits. Once setup, the only outlay is the running costs. Lets face it, running a small pump costs far less than an electric or propane heater.
There is a difference between being entertained and informed. This is great information. But only 1 in a 10 thousand will try this...fewer will succeed.
N9QJA As a person whose input to UA-cam seems inordinately concentrated on the use of guns and other weapons of death and violence, one could expect little else than the type and tone of your contribution. Some, such as Mr Canivan, are dedicated to Enthalpy, and disseminating his findings FREE Others, like yourself, to Entropy - Have a Happy Zero Kelvin.
Thanks for confirming for us that you would be the asinine bored kid at the back of the class who would get at minimal grade during exam time. You would be one I'd consider one of the "sheeple" that the rest of us would ignore and distrust if it came to needing this knowledge in a real world application.
hay John, I like what you did it is amazing.it is clear that you put a lot of work and thought into what you've done.i didn't know how ugly all the haters were gonna get ...sorry bout that.i just can't buy into the man made global warming,of course the climate is changing it always has and always will.but I'm no fan or big oil.so keep up the good work!!
You have a point. It can be difficult to know of the right way to encourage people to become more free from the system though. By getting the majority of your energy and food needs directly from the NATURAL RESOURCES from the Earth, you eliminate many of the middlemen, become more self-sufficient, and become more free. I think he was just trying to describe this basic concept. Not all corporations are bad though. That's true. Many of them are not efficient. Many care about money more than People
I'm amazed at how negative these people are at your presentation. Communicating the idea of modular storage of hot water for heat is great. It could be piped through radiators to disperse heat for use in living spaces. Thanks for your input.
This blue print is a great start for a heating system I am working out to heat the floors of my house and shop thanks. Was also thinking of thermal mass wall panels with water piped through the panels. Thanks
Pls do not forget about winter nights. If you have just a water in the system it could be frozen at night. It will make you a lot of problems after. Mr Canivan should worn people at very beginning.
You are welcome Richard. A better way to connect the barrels is through the sides with bulk head fittings. To insulate just place solid insulation all around them. A few minor supports could be used to hold the insulation in place
Have you tried using a mesh in your outlet pipes to prevent turbulence?- I'm guessing most the flow exits out the first one or two holes in your series of holes so it's only helping so much. Perhaps try using a 2" to 3" or 4" expansion joint to slow the velocity of the water entering the tank to prevent causing any current in the tank. And perhaps try using a plastic mesh in the expansion joint (similar to mesh used as baffle material in a fuel tank / fuel cell).
Fifteen years ago, I was Involved in an experiment to use parabolic troughs 2.5 meters in length to raise useful steam. Result, a very large array of troughs (5) was needed to create steam that was sufficient for practical use.
Am I correct in saying your objective is to return colder water to the collector? That is instead of using say one tank and quite a bit of heat being returned to the collector you get to keep the heat. This would of course be wise if you return colder water you can then get more heat from the collector. It increases the efficiency of the cycle. Another question is the array is trying to achieve high temperature difference is that for air heating which would rely on this.
@dadigitechman Thank you DAD for your comment. The reason I use large 2" PVC connectors is to create less turbulence in the water. Turbulence causes the hot water to mix with the cold water and this lowers the heat collection efficiency.
There is a design with a funell going from small to big allowing the incoming water to slow down and settle into the stratification layers quicker. Found it on builditsolar.com
i don't really understand what you're talking about or what the purpose of this is, but hot water doesn't weigh less than cold water. Hot water is less dense than cold water. It still weighs the same unless you're comparing two same volume containers in which one has hot and one has cold. I'm sure you already know this, but it bugged me when you said "hot water weighs less than cold", it bothered the part of me that was in physics class before i failed it :)
sorry to disagree with you JB but actual cost is about $75 per tank in the system. As to the warm and cold tanks, When the hot tanks equalize in temperature at top and bottom the next one in turn gradually gets warmer till it equalizes as well and the heat is then put into the 3rd, 4th, etc. If you use 20 50gal steel drums in succession it is capable of storing approximately 1.25 Million BTU's at a temp of 160deg F. As long as the glycol/water is pumped in above temp that you are storing energy.
From a smaller passive solar heating array such as the ones John mentioned in the video, the potential to generate super-heated steam is almost nil. To accomplish that, you would need an active array of parabolic mirrors that are setup to follow the sun, and directing the focused light onto a heat exchanger made from steel. But unless you plan to run a steam turbine, why would you be inclined to generate super-heated steam?
I guess John's just an old hippy relic. I like this idea. I have a bunch of the plastic drums but maybe I'll get some more of the steel ones to put at the hot end of the chain. How is this better than having all the water/heat storage in one big tank, like the ones they are doing at builditsolar website? I guess the more cold water that enters the collector, the more the heat transfer as opposed to having more even heat across the tank.
My plans are insulating my 1700 sqft, 2 story home with 3" of closed-cell foam on all exterior 2x4 walls & rafters, then replacing the FA system with a PEX tube underfloor radiant system. I'm not too keen, however, on the idea of JUST replacing the NG furnace with a NG boiler. I'd like to add an alternative heating source (e.g. solar panel or wood burner) to supplement... or perhaps even replace it completely. I'd prefer to add a solar panel, but the problem I'm having incorporating it is in two areas. First, I live in a 4A hardiness zone and the extremely cold temperatures will freeze any system based solely on water as the thermal conductive material. If I isolate the solar panel portion of the circuit, I was thinking I could use a 50/50 of propylene glycol/water to solve that issue. Thoughts?!? Second, I'm also not keen on the idea of saving the cost of heating fuel, only to add to the cost of my electric bill running pumps or with the added cost of purchasing photovoltaic panels (and their peripheral components). Is there a way to incorporate a thermosyphon system with storage tanks located below the panels... say in the basement?
Unless the system is very well controlled, it is possible to get temperatures above 220°F on occasions and that can instantly ruin most plastics. Make sure the materials that you use are suitable for solar applications or else you will have a long term maintenance problem and possibly a lot of water to clean up. Many materials for domestic hot water are not rated for solar applications.
Great idea! The only problem I see is the loss of heat by the plastic barrels. is this a big problem is this system? Is it also posible to buy a professional kit of this three barrel system? If you know the awnsers to these questions you would really help me.
If you bubble your air to be heated directly through the water, rather than blow it around the outside of the drum, it'll pick up the heat of the water very quickly. Of course then you may have problems with the water mixing and losing its gradient. However you should only need to bubble through the top 10 - 20 cm of water to bring it up to temperature.
Oh please. This is just incredible. Get back to the roots. Connect to the universe. Build our own goodies that cost money to save money. Trap heat from sunlight. Spend more and more money to get less and less return. This is phenomenal. I love it. The polar icecap is going to melt in 200 years. I won't be around to see that.
Could tall and narrow water cylinders (about 7 feet tall and 12-18 inch diameter) be daisy chained and still support heat stratification? What kind of flow rates support stratification? Are there any good reference books?
I've been researching various DIY a solar heating unit to heat out buildings. One thought that has crossed my mind is to use a 'solid mass' heat storage 'tank'. Effectively building a large insulated box filling it with rocks, and passing the air through the 'rock box' before letting it flow into the building. The reason I thought of a 'rock box' instead of a liquid solution is building and insulating a 'rock box' should be easier for most DIY'ers and should theoretically be LOT less maintenance once built. I haven't yet seen any serious solutions along this line and was wondering if you had an opinion on the matter.
Yes Rocks may be used to store heat BUT the heat storage capacity of water is much greater and heated water may be easily pumped to where it;s needed. Some systems bury tanks of water in a pile of rocks and blow across the rocks to heat a house. Rocks are fine but WATER is the most economical heat transfer medium available.
John Canivan What about the length of retention though? While water does have a larger capacity to store heat (something like 6 times?), doesn't water dissipate heat much faster than solid mass? I'm interested in designing something that will maintain heat for a long time frame. If water retains heat as long or longer than solid mass I may change my thought process on this.
Where do you get these boots for PVC penetrations of tanks? I've struck-out so far. I'm only finding boots for roof penetrations and landfill/pond liner penetrations.
I would think some sort of coolant (preferably a biodegradable coolant) would be better than straight water. It would help to increase heat transfer, minimize corrosion, prevent organisms from growing in the water and in some cases prevent the water from freezing.
Thought about this but worried about the weight of tanks on the concrete slab. I am looking at 1-3 tons of weight in a relatively small area. I don't think the floor slab was poured back in the day with that in mind.
thanks for this it was so helpfull im From England and we all need to get off the grid some how thanks 1/3rd of our cost is in hot water and this would realy help if i could do this it would help
It looks great, but is the water circulated through the house, drank, used for cleaning or just blowing the air over it and circulating that through the house? Where I live the solar panel will freeze between dusk and dawn and crack the thing. I could fill it with anti-freeze but them we can't use it for showering. Boy, much is left for guess work!
Simply implies an indirect two stage system (i.e. your potable water flows in pipes through the heat storage tanks but does not mix with the heat storage fluid.
Hi John. Great video. I wonder if you have data on how long your peak heat values are retained? Would additional insulation ( the plywood box scenario ) surrounding the water tanks give more than a day's worth of space heat?
Ralph Kramden additional insulation will definitely increase your heat retention. I plan to use a pot belly stove with a copper coil around the exhaust to circulate water. Chicken coop and garage heater
@photoimagedisplay Does this system need a pump to pump water (or fluid) or is there some kind of advantagous syphoning that goes on just with the difference in temperature in the water?
OK, I like this. I like this a lot. However, I'm still missing a few pieces of the puzzle. If I just used one large drum, the water would stratify according to temperature. What is the advantage of using three drums? Clearly the drum with the input to the hot water heater would be the warmest. I'm just not understanding what that buys me. Thanks much.
Hi Martin Thank you.... This video is a bit crude but the basic idea is that drums connected in series with baffle pipes increase the stratification process. The more drums that are used the greater the stratification. Heat transfer only takes place when there is a difference in temp. More info on my website. Check out solar heat from a winter's sun
I do like this idea. But how may this idea be altered for storing heated water for using? This seems to be only geared toward heating the air. We live off grid and I'm curious how to get a good hot water system going and have looked at so many options. My head is spinning!
my guess: if you live offgrid anyway i would install a heatpumpsystem taking heat out of the ground.. with solarpanels providing the necessary electricity and a big electric boiler.. to get better efficiency you can also link it up to the system shown here.. there is also a system where you melt (dissolve) a salt ( f.e. Natriumacetat-Trihydrat at 60Celsius) in a waterbased solution. like the little handwarmers you can buy.. you cook the handwarmer to mdissolve the salt and after initiating the crystalisation of the salt heat will be provided by an reversible exothermal reaction. so after you heated your water in the boiler to its goal-temperature you use the rest of the electrical energy to heat up the water dissolving the salt.
You should NOT be using PVC pipe to circulate; rather, CPVC, copper or PEX. PVC has a maximum temperature of 140 degrees F. CPVC is rated for 180 degrees F, which should hold up in your working range The plastic barrels you are using are probably food grade HDPE, which can withstand 180 degree temperatures as well. They will, however, melt at some temperature above boiling.
Hi John. I've enjoyed your videos over the years. I'm refreshing my research now as I'm just finishing a 16'x36' greenhouse that I don't want to freeze during winter here in the Colorado mountains. One of the heat sources I'm planning on using is warm water storage in recycled IBCs painted black on the insulated north wall of the structure. Aside from them being heated passively, I'm also considering building one or more collectors to aid in heating the water. My question for you is about stratification. Is there a specific reason to not have the temperature buffered by mixing the hot incoming water with cooler, but warm tank temperatures? I would think that keeping any "hot spots" of freshly heated water from stratifying would lower risk of damage to a plastic tank. I've not done or seen any research that would suggest that either way (stratified or mixed) would release energy into a space more efficiently from a tank open to the room.
thinking about building a mass heater and heating hot water to send to plastic barrels in the back of the house do you think the water would get to hot for the barrels
Mark In a word No. Standard polypropylene drums don't begin to get soft until 160*f . If you exceed this temp you don't have enough storage or you have too many collectors. Heat is rapidly lost from very hot surfaces. With a radiant floor heating system temps less than 120*F are workable. Remember heat is the product of temperature and mass.
If you are solar heating water above 150*F you are wasting energy because the efficiency of heat gain drops rapidly at higher temps and the heat gets higher as the temp increases.
Great information despite those fades being *painfully* slow. If you ever decide to re-edit, make 'em snappy; no more than a second, and preferably under. Your viewers want to see the images, not the transitions between them.
On your 2x4 collector, your plexiglass is the same material that's bought for sun rooms or r patios. They reduce the heat. Use regular glass. And also your diagram of a heated floor. Right there you have 1 return & supply. You should not have cold water returning. You should have tempered water. So now you have multiple supplies and returns. I believe the max is 300 ft but I've held my piping down to around 2oo ft. & Start the supply on the outside wall. where it's the coldest area. Yer Welcome
You mentioned 160 deg. until the barrels begin to soften. Couldn't you add a 90 F. to 130 F. Degrees Adjustable Therm-O-Disc to the pump wiring for both temp. control and eliminate barrel issue or would it take to much away from the original concept?
Glad to have discovered this channel but sad to discover that John is no longer with us. May he forever remain immortalized by his very educative and innovative videos. Rest In Peace John, I hope to meet you in heaven
Excellent informational video John. I designed a house with the entire roof (single slope, south facing) covered with a trickle down system, during my second year of architectural drafting. The only difference was that the arrays I had used were flat black piping with photovoltaic cells covering the bottom of the enclosures to generate current for the pumps and the surplus to charge high density batteries along with small wind turbines.
Totally enjoyed your film! We have now begun our second year of solar panels and having recouped our outlay on the water heater power diverting system are enjoying free hot water deep into October and having had the sunniest January this year have been at it for 10 months in southern England!!!
Be nice to people who know more than you. This guy is a scientist, not a entertainer.
RESPECT, learn about it!
Nice work John, great detailed video that leaves me in no doubt how to progress my own system, and your audio is clear and easily understood... exactly what I want from a technical documentary.
Don't listen to these so and so's who say that your voice is boring or they don't care for the intro, they are likely government trolls that want to see us all become ever increasingly dependent on them and all the things that are destroying this planet!
These are FANTASTIC ideas and solid science! And I assure you, the more intelligent people here are appreciating and thinking about the ideas and ideals you are pressing forth. And DON'T quiet down about these issues! If things continue the way they are going, I think there'll be no possibility of recovering the planet within 100 years with the population increasing exponentially!
~love, one smart lady
Hey guys, don't forget the wonderful IBCs. My homebuilt gasifier wood stove stores heat in a 330g IBC that then distributes to radiators. A copper coil in the IBC heats the domestic hot water. like the drums the IBC will handle 150F easily. I have an alarm set to 155F or at least I am about to. Controllers should be here today. Ck out my build vids under fiskfarm. 2nd Winter and working GREAT. More vids on operation and fire tools, etc. coming soon. Thanks John for sharing. Lots of great advice here. Great music to boot!
I am impressed with the concepts and innovation. Thank You. It is a disappointment that some humans are so critical of others of the same species. It is a matter of opinion and some have no innovation or little personal talent so they choose to belittle others who have developed those traits and characteristics. Kudos to you Sir, for your efforts to educate others on a sometimes difficult subject matter to understand due to the science and engineering of the systems and implementation. Hats off!
Half a million views. Well done.
I would like to reiterate the note of caution about using plastic parts in a solar hot water system.
While doing my research for my solar hot water system, I ran across a "lessons learned" document based on analysis of systems installed in the 1980s. One of the take away lessons was to only build these systems out of durable materials like metal, glass, and concrete. Other materials like plastic and wood are typically poor choices for these hot/wet environs.
Guys, not everybody is a born storyteller. This guy obviously reads what he has written down and kudos to him. I don't see any of you making better or any vids for that matter.
this is cool
I can't tell you how many of these drums I chucked out. We use them for Prop Glyol for refrigeration.
This is a neat relatively cheap Idea.
Oops! Typo on that final sentence, this makes more sense.
Thermal mass and adequate insulation are the key factors and you've helped me a lot with the thermal layering problem. Cheers! :)
Really good information , sounds like you studied it thoroughly. Most of us just want to build something like that if it works really good. I might say it would help to say it in common terms in the next video. We appreciate the detail though.
Whatever was missing in form - was more than compensated for in substance. That seems to have escaped the “FORM” people. I really enjoyed this video and hope to see more like it!
P.S. Like to see the critics do better!
I did essentially the same thing with 1,500 gallons and 34 Evac tube collectors in a commercial application and found that trying to maintain stratification proves far less effective then merely increasing the flow rate through the collectors. more flow rate means lower DeltaT across the array and a more efficient collector for a longer period of the day. I used 3x 500 gallon Plastic Tanks and a VFD powered 3hp Pump to give me the flex to try different configs.
Good stuff John. I want to have a 720sq ft super insulated Quonset hut style SteelMaster house. With all the sunshine in my area this is my choice for heating not just the house but an additional greenhouse too.
Thermo-siphoning would be handy during a power failure.
I might put together a small system for a raised garden bed early spring and late fall crop for greens.
Thermal mass and adequate insulation are the key factors and you've helped me a lot thermal layering problem. Cheers!
9 years later. Did you get to build you SteelMaster house? If so, did you put this system to work for you?
John, I have studied your experiments for quite some time now and have started to construct a 36 square foot 200 gallon SHW system. I will be using three poly drums in my basement connected together to stratify the hot water as you have outlined in this video. I will also be using a conventional natural gas water heater that has been converted for use as a heat exchanger to provide pre-heated water for my conventional electric hot water heater. The idea is that the collector will provide the hottest water to the inner tank core that has been capped off and provided with threaded taps to put hot collector water in the top and extract it from the bottom of the tank, heating the domesic supply water in the conventional part of the tank. That collector water would then travel through the three tanks before making it back to the collector. At night, a circulator will move the stored water through the pre-heater as needed, on demand in order to take advantage of the stored heat and keep the supply water pre-heated. I am wondering if you have any experience with converting natural gas water heaters for this purpose.
Thank you.
I am using the same blue drums you show in your video. we use them at work to ship dialysis concentrates but these will not be used for the potable water. I do not know what the temp ratings are on these drums but we wash them in very steaming hot water prior to filling.
+goltoof I'm using the same barrels John is.
+Jodi Tipton These plastic tanks are good up to 160* F If your temps are hotter than this your sizing is wrong.
+John Canivan Thanks John. I understand polypropylene would be the way to go but these hdpe barrels were free for the asking. But if I may, my original question was if you had ever used a modified nat gas water heater tank as a heat exchanger. Somewhere I got the idea to run the hot collector water down through the hollow center of the tank. I'm not sure how efficient it will be, but it is simple, and cheap.
There are many ways to store hot water. Recycling plastic drums to store solar heat is one practical method ESPECIALLY if you get the drums for free.
Nice info BUT John I hate you as I was listening intensely on headphones and the burst of music after 09:10 just about deafened me its just about guaranteed to wake any one up. I too use a solar heat collector and am just about to add a air source heat pump to the system with an extra 400 Imperial gallons of storage and your info on non turbulent layering is Very useful. Thanks
Thank you Gary. Let me know more about your system.
great video bud, your spot on btw ive worked for the oil industry and have been privy to certain knowledge, i think just about everyone knows were being kept in the dark on free energy. in the meantime we'll have to use methods like these to offset the ever increasing rise in the cost of living, thanks for sharing
good idea indeed- look likes the bell masonry stove concept- thermal stratification of fluid- Tks for sharing your work
The concept is right on. We think the concept can be achieved most efficiently when the solar array is connected to a cistern tank which is connected to a heat pump. This way we can maximize the delivery of the solar element because our heat sink in colder and larger that other systems.
Actually this is a relatively good presentation - it has a direction, theme, is concise and gives simple enough instruction. The fact some people are ADHD doesn't mean the thing they are incapable of paying attention to is bad.
Thanks, I found this very interesting. I have been looking at a system that has a small PV cell array in one corner of the solar collector to power a small pump that circulates the primary heat collection medium which can then be freeze-resistant to prevent damage to the collector during extreme winter periods when there may be insufficient sunlight.
That's the beauty of the drain-back system. You don't need glycol or an expansion tank, however, you do need a higher head pressure pump than what you would use with a pressurized system where the collector stays filled. I recommend reading up on this at builditsolar dtcm.
Your voice is better than a warm glass of milk. I'm ready for a good nap now.
Thank You Chris.
wow it's awesome ~ collecting solar heat by this system may help us reduce a bunch of troubles
Great video. Next step is to insulate it with a larger piece of KD pipe, having reducers top and bottom to connect to the inner pipe above and below the copper line. You can also fill the empty void inside with many different things ranging from expansion foam to dirt; to make it even more efficient.
I'm thinking about adding solar heat to my home. I found a great deal on 330 gal totes the contained food grade silicone used to manufacture non stick baking items for $65 each. Their high capacity and square shape will make them easy to insulate. I want to run the circulation system off a few 100 watt solar panels as well now that solar panels are finally reasonable, around a buck a watt these days... I'd love to go totally off grid someday. Forklift batteries are the best deal going too, in stationary use they last nearly forever, 15 years easy. I've already upgraded all my appliances and lighting to high efficiency and led and only pay $58/mo on budget year round so the expenditure for the initial setup seems hard to justify at the moment. It would mainly be just to help the environment a little and the added bonus rush of not having a bill. Hopefully solar panels continue to fall in price. The planet could use a break too for sure...
I so much agree - a model for others - not a Beauty Parade for the presenter, rather a professional presentation.
One item: Hot water isn't '' lighter'' than cold - it's not as dense - tho' your easy to understand explanation for the density change as temp rises is most welcome - t y.
Clive Adams Stratification is important because it reduces the amount of heat that can be stored per unit volume. It's like only having a half barrel instead of a full one.
As far as it being expensive, it isn't. You can find these barrels for a very reasonable price.
I'd rather have the full barrel then.
John.... fantastic video.... I am very encouraged by what you have demonstrated here! I am now tempted to build a project. However I would be interested in knowing your thoughts on collecting hot ait and piping it through the house.
Thank you Bushdoctor. It's becoming more difficult to make these kinds of videos.
Hi John,
Well done, good presentation for those interested to learn.
Have you considered using coils of pex pipe in each tank?
The idea being that the water (heat store) is not disturbed thereby allowing natural stratification, the coils can also allow the insertion of a second coil to draw off hot water from the store without the turbulence of a pump to disrupt the stratified layers.
Just thinking out loud.
Excellent work in building the system and in making this video. However I have to disagree with the premise. Modular heat storage is unlikely to ever be as cost-efficient or energy-efficient as a single storage unit. Why? Surface Area. (SA) The surface area determines both the rate of heat loss, and the amount and cost of materials to build the system. The more SA, the more heat loss, and the more materials required to build it.
The shape that encloses the most volume with the least SA is a sphere (which is hard to build), so the next best thing is a cylinder tank of roughly equal height and diameter (an approximate sphere.) The third-best choice would be a cube, and the fourth best would be a rectangular tank.
A modular system (several small containers) will always have much more SA than a single large container of an equal volume, so not only will a modular system lose heat faster, it will cost more because it will require more total material mass, and also require more materials in terms of plumbing connections & fittings. A single large tank would require only one set of fittings, whereas a lot of small tanks requires many sets of fittings (with many more chances for leaks.) It is not easier to assemble, it will not cost less, and it will not perform as well. And a modular system will probably occupy more floor area because of all the unused space in between the modules.
(Solar collectors are the opposite: they require high surface area with the least possible enclosed volume. Thats why they're flat & thin.)
For a heat storage system, get as close to a sphere as you can. A single large cylinder tank is almost always the best choice in terms of performance, materials cost, ease of construction. For a modular system to be advantageous, there have to be extenuating circumstances that override the above considerations. Such as if you can get the drums for free. But of course that's a method that will only work for one or a few people in the underground economy, it will not work on large scales, so cannot be expected to be part of a sustainable society.
To reduce turbulence I highly recommend you install some straw filters into your pickup and fill tubes. These are nothing more than a bundle of plastic straws fitted down into the dip tubes so the water has to pass through all the straws This creates more laminar flow, forming a more coherent stream.
Interesting! I'm in the process(well, thought process) of designing a solar water heating system for both the home and an aquaponics system. A 'daisy chain' of tanks could prove very useful!
Some people complain about the expense of setting up such a system. Sadly, they fail to see the benefits. Once setup, the only outlay is the running costs. Lets face it, running a small pump costs far less than an electric or propane heater.
Thank s for music too !! I love it ! 😀
Excellent ! thank s ! I had the same idea since a long time ! but only in my mind !!!
Nice setup, free energy is always good.
There is a difference between being entertained and informed. This is great information. But only 1 in a 10 thousand will try this...fewer will succeed.
N9QJA
As a person whose input to UA-cam seems inordinately concentrated on the use of guns and other weapons of death and violence, one could expect little else than the type and tone of your contribution.
Some, such as Mr Canivan, are dedicated to Enthalpy, and disseminating his findings FREE
Others, like yourself, to Entropy - Have a Happy Zero Kelvin.
Cutting holes in the sides of the storage tanks for pipe connections is a recipe for leaks. Keep it simple and only penetrate the top of the tanks.
Thanks for confirming for us that you would be the asinine bored kid at the back of the class who would get at minimal grade during exam time. You would be one I'd consider one of the "sheeple" that the rest of us would ignore and distrust if it came to needing this knowledge in a real world application.
hay John, I like what you did it is amazing.it is clear that you put a lot of work and thought into what you've done.i didn't know how ugly all the haters were gonna get ...sorry bout that.i just can't buy into the man made global warming,of course the climate is changing it always has and always will.but I'm no fan or big oil.so keep up the good work!!
You have a point. It can be difficult to know of the right way to encourage people to become more free from the system though. By getting the majority of your energy and food needs directly from the NATURAL RESOURCES from the Earth, you eliminate many of the middlemen, become more self-sufficient, and become more free. I think he was just trying to describe this basic concept. Not all corporations are bad though. That's true. Many of them are not efficient. Many care about money more than People
I'm amazed at how negative these people are at your presentation. Communicating the idea of modular storage of hot water for heat is great. It could be piped through radiators to disperse heat for use in living spaces. Thanks for your input.
Thank you Mike. Hope this video has a positive influence.
This blue print is a great start for a heating system I am working out to heat the floors of my house and shop thanks.
Was also thinking of thermal mass wall panels with water piped through the panels.
Thanks
You have the right idea Richard
Pls do not forget about winter nights. If you have just a water in the system it could be frozen at night. It will make you a lot of problems after. Mr Canivan should worn people at very beginning.
Agreed, Part of my design is water drains from exterior to interior when pump shuts down
William Chilton Commercial systems use automotive anti-freeze and water 50/50 mixture. Much more efficient.
You are welcome Richard. A better way to connect the barrels is through the sides with bulk head fittings. To insulate just place solid insulation all around them. A few minor supports could be used to hold the insulation in place
Great plans!
You have wonderful ideas
A material like polyester fiber fill added to the tank might help tremendously.
Have you tried using a mesh in your outlet pipes to prevent turbulence?- I'm guessing most the flow exits out the first one or two holes in your series of holes so it's only helping so much. Perhaps try using a 2" to 3" or 4" expansion joint to slow the velocity of the water entering the tank to prevent causing any current in the tank. And perhaps try using a plastic mesh in the expansion joint (similar to mesh used as baffle material in a fuel tank / fuel cell).
Fifteen years ago, I was Involved in an experiment to use parabolic troughs 2.5 meters in length to raise useful steam. Result, a very large array of troughs (5) was needed to create steam that was sufficient for practical use.
I have wondered about flat panel for pre-heat and trough as a second stage to raise the temp further (on sunny days)
This is an excellent, thought-provoking video. Kudos & thanks.
Great Video. Thanks Dave!
Great video
Am I correct in saying your objective is to return colder water to the collector? That is instead of using say one tank and quite a bit of heat being returned to the collector you get to keep the heat. This would of course be wise if you return colder water you can then get more heat from the collector. It increases the efficiency of the cycle. Another question is the array is trying to achieve high temperature difference is that for air heating which would rely on this.
Cool information. Thanks for sharing!
I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that
OH you could do it if you try
kbrigsby61 2001 space oddities?
To prevent water mixing I would fill up a storage tank with a rough plastic foam. The hot water will find a way to the top. No need for a multi-store.
Baffle pipes increase heat stratification.
@dadigitechman Thank you DAD for your comment. The reason I use large 2" PVC connectors is to create less turbulence in the water. Turbulence causes the hot water to mix with the cold water and this lowers the heat collection efficiency.
0
There is a design with a funell going from small to big allowing the incoming water to slow down and settle into the stratification layers quicker. Found it on builditsolar.com
i don't really understand what you're talking about or what the purpose of this is, but hot water doesn't weigh less than cold water. Hot water is less dense than cold water. It still weighs the same unless you're comparing two same volume containers in which one has hot and one has cold. I'm sure you already know this, but it bugged me when you said "hot water weighs less than cold", it bothered the part of me that was in physics class before i failed it :)
this guys voice! I'm almost falling asleep
I dealt with John, once. Would never again, despite his information.
sorry to disagree with you JB but actual cost is about $75 per tank in the system. As to the warm and cold tanks, When the hot tanks equalize in temperature at top and bottom the next one in turn gradually gets warmer till it equalizes as well and the heat is then put into the 3rd, 4th, etc. If you use 20 50gal steel drums in succession it is capable of storing approximately 1.25 Million BTU's at a temp of 160deg F. As long as the glycol/water is pumped in above temp that you are storing energy.
From a smaller passive solar heating array such as the ones John mentioned in the video, the potential to generate super-heated steam is almost nil. To accomplish that, you would need an active array of parabolic mirrors that are setup to follow the sun, and directing the focused light onto a heat exchanger made from steel. But unless you plan to run a steam turbine, why would you be inclined to generate super-heated steam?
I guess John's just an old hippy relic. I like this idea. I have a bunch of the plastic drums but maybe I'll get some more of the steel ones to put at the hot end of the chain. How is this better than having all the water/heat storage in one big tank, like the ones they are doing at builditsolar website? I guess the more cold water that enters the collector, the more the heat transfer as opposed to having more even heat across the tank.
My plans are insulating my 1700 sqft, 2 story home with 3" of closed-cell foam on all exterior 2x4 walls & rafters, then replacing the FA system with a PEX tube underfloor radiant system. I'm not too keen, however, on the idea of JUST replacing the NG furnace with a NG boiler. I'd like to add an alternative heating source (e.g. solar panel or wood burner) to supplement... or perhaps even replace it completely. I'd prefer to add a solar panel, but the problem I'm having incorporating it is in two areas.
First, I live in a 4A hardiness zone and the extremely cold temperatures will freeze any system based solely on water as the thermal conductive material. If I isolate the solar panel portion of the circuit, I was thinking I could use a 50/50 of propylene glycol/water to solve that issue. Thoughts?!?
Second, I'm also not keen on the idea of saving the cost of heating fuel, only to add to the cost of my electric bill running pumps or with the added cost of purchasing photovoltaic panels (and their peripheral components). Is there a way to incorporate a thermosyphon system with storage tanks located below the panels... say in the basement?
Yes you should keep the heating systems seperate
Unless the system is very well controlled, it is possible to get temperatures above 220°F on occasions and that can instantly ruin most plastics.
Make sure the materials that you use are suitable for solar applications or else you will have a long term maintenance problem and possibly a lot of water to clean up.
Many materials for domestic hot water are not rated for solar applications.
Great idea! The only problem I see is the loss of heat by the plastic barrels. is this a big problem is this system? Is it also posible to buy a professional kit of this three barrel system? If you know the awnsers to these questions you would really help me.
vd The tanks are surrounded with solid insulation after they are installed
John Canivan can you tell me how to set up this system and the actual cost?
If you bubble your air to be heated directly through the water, rather than blow it around the outside of the drum, it'll pick up the heat of the water very quickly.
Of course then you may have problems with the water mixing and losing its gradient. However you should only need to bubble through the top 10 - 20 cm of water to bring it up to temperature.
Oh please. This is just incredible. Get back to the roots. Connect to the universe.
Build our own goodies that cost money to save money. Trap heat from sunlight. Spend more and more money to get less and less return. This is phenomenal. I love it. The polar icecap is going to melt in 200 years. I won't be around to see that.
Awesome. Could also use "fins" to reduce water velocity on inlet?
+Solar Power Townsville yes that could help to reduce turbulance....
great stuff !
Thanks
Could tall and narrow water cylinders (about 7 feet tall and 12-18 inch diameter) be daisy chained and still support heat stratification?
What kind of flow rates support stratification?
Are there any good reference books?
Its funny how people still call oil, fossil fuel. That's long ago disproved. Thanks for making this. I watched it all
I've been researching various DIY a solar heating unit to heat out buildings. One thought that has crossed my mind is to use a 'solid mass' heat storage 'tank'. Effectively building a large insulated box filling it with rocks, and passing the air through the 'rock box' before letting it flow into the building.
The reason I thought of a 'rock box' instead of a liquid solution is building and insulating a 'rock box' should be easier for most DIY'ers and should theoretically be LOT less maintenance once built.
I haven't yet seen any serious solutions along this line and was wondering if you had an opinion on the matter.
Yes Rocks may be used to store heat BUT the heat storage capacity of water is much greater and heated water may be easily pumped to where it;s needed. Some systems bury tanks of water in a pile of rocks and blow across the rocks to heat a house. Rocks are fine but WATER is the most economical heat transfer medium available.
John Canivan What about the length of retention though? While water does have a larger capacity to store heat (something like 6 times?), doesn't water dissipate heat much faster than solid mass? I'm interested in designing something that will maintain heat for a long time frame. If water retains heat as long or longer than solid mass I may change my thought process on this.
Where do you get these boots for PVC penetrations of tanks? I've struck-out so far. I'm only finding boots for roof penetrations and landfill/pond liner penetrations.
Would be nice to see working prototypes. It's easy to draw, but hard to implement.
I would think some sort of coolant (preferably a biodegradable coolant) would be better than straight water. It would help to increase heat transfer, minimize corrosion, prevent organisms from growing in the water and in some cases prevent the water from freezing.
Thought about this but worried about the weight of tanks on the concrete slab. I am looking at 1-3 tons of weight in a relatively small area. I don't think the floor slab was poured back in the day with that in mind.
great stuff I liked the quote
John, did you do the voiceover for the HAL9000 unit in 1969? But I kid, big fan:)
thanks for this it was so helpfull im From England and we all need to get off the grid some how thanks 1/3rd of our cost is in hot water and this would realy help if i could do this it would help
It looks great, but is the water circulated through the house, drank, used for cleaning or just blowing the air over it and circulating that through the house? Where I live the solar panel will freeze between dusk and dawn and crack the thing. I could fill it with anti-freeze but them we can't use it for showering. Boy, much is left for guess work!
Simply implies an indirect two stage system (i.e. your potable water flows in pipes through the heat storage tanks but does not mix with the heat storage fluid.
i feel stronger and smarter
yay!
Hi John. Great video. I wonder if you have data on how long your peak heat values are retained? Would additional insulation ( the plywood box scenario ) surrounding the water tanks give more than a day's worth of space heat?
Thank you Ralph.
Yes I box in my drums with 2" isocyanurate. insulation. no need for a frame or plywood.
Ralph Kramden additional insulation will definitely increase your heat retention. I plan to use a pot belly stove with a copper coil around the exhaust to circulate water. Chicken coop and garage heater
@photoimagedisplay Does this system need a pump to pump water (or fluid) or is there some kind of advantagous syphoning that goes on just with the difference in temperature in the water?
What is this wonderful song .?
OK, I like this. I like this a lot.
However, I'm still missing a few pieces of the puzzle. If I just used one large drum, the water would stratify according to temperature. What is the advantage of using three drums? Clearly the drum with the input to the hot water heater would be the warmest. I'm just not understanding what that buys me. Thanks much.
Hi Martin Thank you.... This video is a bit crude but the basic idea is that drums connected in series with baffle pipes increase the stratification process. The more drums that are used the greater the stratification. Heat transfer only takes place when there is a difference in temp. More info on my website. Check out solar heat from a winter's sun
I do like this idea. But how may this idea be altered for storing heated water for using? This seems to be only geared toward heating the air. We live off grid and I'm curious how to get a good hot water system going and have looked at so many options. My head is spinning!
Just fill the tanks with PEX heat exchange tubes to transfer heat from the drums into the hot water plumbing.
my guess: if you live offgrid anyway i would install a heatpumpsystem taking heat out of the ground.. with solarpanels providing the necessary electricity and a big electric boiler.. to get better efficiency you can also link it up to the system shown here.. there is also a system where you melt (dissolve) a salt ( f.e. Natriumacetat-Trihydrat at 60Celsius) in a waterbased solution. like the little handwarmers you can buy.. you cook the handwarmer to mdissolve the salt and after initiating the crystalisation of the salt heat will be provided by an reversible exothermal reaction. so after you heated your water in the boiler to its goal-temperature you use the rest of the electrical energy to heat up the water dissolving the salt.
You should NOT be using PVC pipe to circulate; rather, CPVC, copper or PEX. PVC has a maximum temperature of 140 degrees F. CPVC is rated for 180 degrees F, which should hold up in your working range
The plastic barrels you are using are probably food grade HDPE, which can withstand 180 degree temperatures as well. They will, however, melt at some temperature above boiling.
Hi John. I've enjoyed your videos over the years. I'm refreshing my research now as I'm just finishing a 16'x36' greenhouse that I don't want to freeze during winter here in the Colorado mountains. One of the heat sources I'm planning on using is warm water storage in recycled IBCs painted black on the insulated north wall of the structure. Aside from them being heated passively, I'm also considering building one or more collectors to aid in heating the water. My question for you is about stratification. Is there a specific reason to not have the temperature buffered by mixing the hot incoming water with cooler, but warm tank temperatures? I would think that keeping any "hot spots" of freshly heated water from stratifying would lower risk of damage to a plastic tank. I've not done or seen any research that would suggest that either way (stratified or mixed) would release energy into a space more efficiently from a tank open to the room.
thinking about building a mass heater and heating hot water to send to plastic barrels in the back of the house do you think the water would get to hot for the barrels
Mark
In a word No. Standard polypropylene drums don't begin to get soft until 160*f . If you exceed this temp you don't have enough storage or you have too many collectors. Heat is rapidly lost from very hot surfaces. With a radiant floor heating system temps less than 120*F are workable. Remember heat is the product of temperature and mass.
If you are solar heating water above 150*F you are wasting energy because the efficiency of heat gain drops rapidly at higher temps and the heat gets higher as the temp increases.
Great information despite those fades being *painfully* slow.
If you ever decide to re-edit, make 'em snappy; no more than a second, and preferably under. Your viewers want to see the images, not the transitions between them.
On your 2x4 collector, your plexiglass is the same material that's bought for sun rooms or r patios. They reduce the heat. Use regular glass. And also your diagram of a heated floor. Right there you have 1 return & supply. You should not have cold water returning. You should have tempered water. So now you have multiple supplies and returns. I believe the max is 300 ft but I've held my piping down to around 2oo ft. & Start the supply on the outside wall. where it's the coldest area. Yer Welcome
You mentioned 160 deg. until the barrels begin to soften. Couldn't you add a 90 F. to 130 F. Degrees Adjustable Therm-O-Disc to the pump wiring for both temp. control and eliminate barrel issue or would it take to much away from the original concept?
A lot of DIYers probably get drums and misc plumbing fittings off craigslist.
Nice , But where did you get the rubber boots?