*Links / Corrections / Useful Info* 1) The small IC above the black ribbon connector (315-5638) is a 6 button multiplexor (this is logical if you consider it has a 6 button joypad built in!) 2) The tiny 10 pin chip near the regulator I think is a AN8015SH (step down / step up DC to DC converter) - guessing (as I said) for use with the invertor board. Confirmed both of the above after uploading the video, using the Console5 wiki! a) Regards the RAM connections"going through" the resistor arrays - I think they are more likely pullups rather than connections passing through them. Just didn't think about it at the time. b) When using hot air to remove components, it is best to remove the PCB from the case / shell etc. You could melt the plastic! c) 4th method to remove SMD capacitors (comment from Haggledesperado) is to use two soldering irons, one in each hand. Heat up both the pads and once the solder is melted, use the irons to lift the cap off the board. As safe as hot air, perhaps less risk of heat affecting anything nearby. d) 5th method to remove SMD capacitors is to twist the top of the can - higher risk. If corrosion is present I would guess a 70%+ chance of a pad being lifted. If the pads are OK, 20% chance of pad being lifted. Obviously there are other factors that increase or lower risk with any of these techniques. eg. PCB manufacture quality, size of pads vs size of capacitor fitted (larger caps have larger leads etc). You should check out Dennis's excellent channel here:- ua-cam.com/channels/EHkvZV6pB6uw-NSmGsM-kw.html His recent awesome Sega 32x repair:- ua-cam.com/video/voECR9LqCzA/v-deo.html Dennis van den Broek on Twitter:- twitter.com/PointerFunction Sega Holic USB Mod - ua-cam.com/video/wUHBbEbblZc/v-deo.html Console5 Wiki - console5.com/wiki/Nomad Console5 (Cap kits & glass screen protectors) - console5.com/store/
Using kapton tape to help solder wires onto those fiddly-arsed fine-pitched pins has to be one of the best things I've seen in a while man. Cheers for that! That's my weekend sorted :)
Works a bloody charm too! Was hopping about and high-fiving myself big time in my workshop earlier- managed to 'finally' fix that bloody knackered skybox. Tonight, the Mrs an I shall be watching English telly (a big deal living out here in Germany) with a plate of cheese & onion toasties and a brew.. Thanks again mucker, be well and enjoy the rest of the weekend! :)
Really nice.....recap😉! Enjoy all those endless hours of fun & take care of that priceless emerald. Must have been chaos, all thoses caps! Sega Up, C, Down, C, Down, C, Down, C, Left, C, Right. 😉
I've really enjoyed this 3 part series Chris, watching one of my favourite UA-camrs fix up a SEGA Nomad it doesn't get much better than that. It looks wonderfull by the way and yes I'm super jealous.
Thanks mate =D I wonder if there's anything I can do about that Sega logo... I watched a recent video where someone printed (laser) to a special transfer film and then using water slid the image off onto the device, added some heat (not too high to melt) and the image transfered to the surface.
this has been such an excellent series gadget, i love how honest you are about the nature of repairs, even with all the experience in the world things just go wrong. as for those glass lenses they are always like that, gameboy ones are just as bad.
Also, for your jailbar issue, a few of use are going to see if we can fit a triple bypass board in a nomad. Unfortunately it won’t work on the composite screen but I think benn venn is working on an rgb screen mod.
Hey GadgetUK. Thanks for the video, i really enjoyed this 3 part series. Just wanted to give you a little tip i used on my Wonderswan regarding the glass lens. I had the same problem you had with the glass screen beeing slighty bigger, but i used a metal nail file to very easily file a bit of the glass screen and it fitted perfectly after. Keep up the good work!
Great video and work - couple of interesting things I thought whilst watching it - firstly I noticed the board marked 'Venus' in a number of places, which corresponds to Sega's 'planet' codenames - the Game Gear was code named 'Mercury', the 32x was 'Mars', we all know about the Saturn. Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto were unreleased prototypes. Secondly, I wondered if the Z80 which is used for sound on the MD was used to help run Master System games, and apparently this is the case. A clever cost saving way to implement backwards compatibility, using a chip that is not solely dedicated to the task. Thirdly, I wondered what the options are for doing a region mod. I remember adding a 50/60hz switch to my Nomad which was very fiddly and quite ugly. I think there is a way to add a switchless mod but I'm not sure. Perhaps the Everdrive is a better solution although I think there are a small handful of PAL games that wouldn't work properly at 60hz. And finally, try running Virtua Racing on the Nomad, it looks absolutely gorgeous on the small screen.
Yes, I forgot to mention the Venus designation for its codename =D And yes, Z80 for sound, but main CPU in Master System mode. They are easy-ish to region switch. The problem as far as I understand can be with composite, as the timing is incorrect for the colour burst signal, and the CPU not exact the correct speed when the jumper set to 50Hz. You can get a switchless mod that has the PAL crystal onboard too. I might do a mod myself with a PIC chip at some point. Will try out Virtual Racer on there later =D
A fourth method to remove SMD capacitors is to use two soldering irons, one in each hand. Heat up both the pads and once the solder is melted, use the irons to lift the cap off the board. It's my preferred method actually. Quick and safe.
Nice video. Felt your pain at the screen part. It is always the same. Do you leave it at 99% happy and have to look at it every time or do you go back and tackle Sod's Law one more time to get 100% (and then wish you'd just left it alone as one issue leads to another 🤣).
The reason why I love the Sega Nomad was while my military service I played mine for year's. It's a portable genesis which was better than the Gba which I couldn't see unless having proper lighting, but while on ship and a 6 month deployment this was the only gaming device needed, while the Dreamcast was exquisite it needed a t.v. Which was constantly being used by other crew members. So to fix this circumstance I bought a VGA box so I could use PC monitors while playing a variety of gaming consoles but the most important was the VGA box for the dreamcast that I found at a pawn shop was was ultimately allowed me to use my dreamcast even while others monopolized the tv's available.
That's incredible, imagine if the Nomad had the 32x support built-in this would give a new dynamic of gaming on this hand-held. Sega CD support would be impressive. Even if everdrive iso stored.
A better LCD for the Nomad might be PD035VX2, which is 640x480. It should give less interpolation blur. The one you have there is 320x240. $63 with a driver board (Aliexpress) is a lot more expensive though.
The lines in the screen you're talking about are caused by an effect called dot crawl, visible normally only in composite video signals, which is very visible on places where two very distinct colors meet, or where black and white meet. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dot_crawl The 4th paragraph in that article says older consoles and computers use a non-standard burst phase, which explains why the screenshot provided in that article is not exactly what is happening to the signal generated by the Genesis, but it's pretty much what is happening in the signal.
The particular issue I beleive wasn't dot crawl! I've seen that before though on other composite videos I've done. In this particular instance its a diagonal wave that goes across the screen from one corner to another, which I've seen before on other systems - often where a switched PSU is used, or there's some ground plane issue. With dot crawl it tends to be super evident on certain colours - eg. red etc. I showed a good example of that up close on the Saturn RGB cable video I did. It could be that the screen is not locking onto the chroma signal very well. Because now I think about it has similar appearance to that BBC Model B where I showed the difference there between composite and RGB. But maybe that is what dot crawl is - I need to refresh myself lol.
PS, those Sega power supplies all have leaky capacitors inside them, too. I forget the proper size - but I wanna say 16v 3000uf, but I'm unable to find that just now, and don't feel like ripping into my power supplies to confirm. But they're all leaking by now - I've fixed about a dozen of them and not a one was good, and they do eventually short out the power supply. They've got a diode inside of them that just gets covered in electrolytic goo.
If that lens is as tight as it looked and took that much force to squeeze in there, I'd be worried about the plastic developing cracks over time as that stress the assembly is now under has to go somewhere and it's unlikely the glass will yield first. I'd probably have just returned those lenses as defective.
I saw a guy having trouble fitting a mirror once then he started sanding the edge of the mirror manually with fine sand paper until it fitted, may have worked on the shitty glass screens hope this helps in some way for future issues. I remember my brother bought a sony xperia z1 off a mate a few years ago cheap as it had a broken screen, it was so thin and had to be glued in place it took me 3 costly attempts to fit it and it broke after being used a couple of time each time, before i gave up and bought a chassis with screen fitted, only to find at the end of swapping absolutely every little part of the phone over, that the screen was bulging and coming loose due to clips on the inside that held a small wire in place, i then out of desperation took it apart removed the clips and used superglue and a pin to get between the thin glass and bezel, the glue ruin the screen, i could have cried.
That's a really good idea, but I think I would prefer to try and sand the screen protector edges as someone else pointed out though - the reason being is widening the Nomad edge is irreversible vs altering the actual protector!
Well that's not good, glass doesn't compress. That unit design has a lot of horrendously specific dimensions being as asymmetrical as it is, first time I saw it the slope bugged me heh. Nice to see some MD parts in the NM, hate change in components just for the sake of it. Great series, lot of fun. :D
Ceramic capacitors don't filter the same way wet type aluminium caps do, and they have totally different characteristcs regards how they behave at different temperatures, and they can be affected by vibration and sound (they can oscillate). You could fit them, and not notice too much of a difference, but they are not doing exactly the same job. Ceramic caps also tend to short when they fail.
I don't suppose you know if a similar composite screen would fit in a GameGear? Whilst the mcwill screens are great, I really don't want to spend that much. My GameGear still works but has numerous stuck pixels, so could do with a new screen ideally
Great videos as always. I've seen one of these available for a fair price. I found out it was working before they carried out a cap change and LCD replacement. They said they pulled off one of the pads in the process but have been able to solder to a trace. But it no longer works. Do ya think it's worth a punt??
Hello there and thanks for the greatly helpful video! I've replaced (I think) all my audio caps but the speaker audio is low and distorted. I also tried with a brand new speaker, same result. With earbuds it works amazingly, I don't know what to try next... Any hint, please? :(
Honestly cannot remember much about how the board is laid out regards the speaker circuit. You need to follow the connection from the speaker to find the audio amp circuit. It could be a bad trace around there, corrosion damage etc. Possibly the transistor needs replacing. The fact the headphone audio is OK means the audio amp IC is fine.
I would start by running the diagnostic / test BIOS via an Everdrive or SD2SNES. That will give you a clue as to whether there's a problem with the audio chips and related RAM. It could be a fault with one of those.
Hi, sorry to bother you but I'm a bit puzzled here. I had a look, and the part number for your tube of flux and mine is the same, but yours seems a lot clearer, mine's quite the dark amber colour. Have you noticed it darkening with time? I've had mine for a while, hence why I'm asking. Thanks in advance! Great video as always :)
Yes, I've noticed colour variations to Chip Qwik flux too. I buy mine from RS Online, and despite it always having the same thickness and smell (and works the same), the last few batches I've had have varied a little in colour. But it does appear to be identical in all respects other than colour!?!?!
@@GadgetUK164 I've only had the one tube, but yeah seems to work as well as yours, I just recently started using hot air, after watching most of your videos, figured I might be able to pull it off too. Let's just say the second time went really well :P Thanks for the answer and all the tips and tricks you're sharing, much appreciated!
=D I think the opposite is required actually! You need to cool the shell (plastic and metal contracts with cold, but will expand with heat. The heat technique can help free up rusted / stuck screws / bolts though, the idea being that the outside of the thing you are screwing into comes loose a bit from the expansion and contraction. I suspect these screens will be easier to fit when the platic is colder.
Hi do you know anywhere that offers a modding service for the nomad just purchased one today or could I send it you and we could discuss a price I've got all the parts I want fitted
@@GadgetUK164 That will be awesome. I had no idea about enabling Master System, I'm going to have to try that on mine although mine has a white washed screen and it's a bit rough to see proper but the video out works great.
Great mini-series there, Gadget. I'm worried about the stress that screen glass will be under, though. A bit of flexing the case with over exuberent playing might be enough to crack it. I also noticed that the cap you replaced at 20:37 is 16v, not 6v. Is that why it's a bit too big for the connections?
Thanks =D Yes, that one that was large is 16v! But I am sure a smaller one (physically) could be sourced. The one that was on there originally isn't as tight a fit!
*Links / Corrections / Useful Info*
1) The small IC above the black ribbon connector (315-5638) is a 6 button multiplexor (this is logical if you consider it has a 6 button joypad built in!)
2) The tiny 10 pin chip near the regulator I think is a AN8015SH (step down / step up DC to DC converter) - guessing (as I said) for use with the invertor board.
Confirmed both of the above after uploading the video, using the Console5 wiki!
a) Regards the RAM connections"going through" the resistor arrays - I think they are more likely pullups rather than connections passing through them. Just didn't think about it at the time.
b) When using hot air to remove components, it is best to remove the PCB from the case / shell etc. You could melt the plastic!
c) 4th method to remove SMD capacitors (comment from Haggledesperado) is to use two soldering irons, one in each hand. Heat up both the pads and once the solder is melted, use the irons to lift the cap off the board. As safe as hot air, perhaps less risk of heat affecting anything nearby.
d) 5th method to remove SMD capacitors is to twist the top of the can - higher risk. If corrosion is present I would guess a 70%+ chance of a pad being lifted. If the pads are OK, 20% chance of pad being lifted. Obviously there are other factors that increase or lower risk with any of these techniques. eg. PCB manufacture quality, size of pads vs size of capacitor fitted (larger caps have larger leads etc).
You should check out Dennis's excellent channel here:- ua-cam.com/channels/EHkvZV6pB6uw-NSmGsM-kw.html
His recent awesome Sega 32x repair:- ua-cam.com/video/voECR9LqCzA/v-deo.html
Dennis van den Broek on Twitter:- twitter.com/PointerFunction
Sega Holic USB Mod - ua-cam.com/video/wUHBbEbblZc/v-deo.html
Console5 Wiki - console5.com/wiki/Nomad
Console5 (Cap kits & glass screen protectors) - console5.com/store/
Excellent series Gadget, well done!
Using kapton tape to help solder wires onto those fiddly-arsed fine-pitched pins has to be one of the best things I've seen in a while man. Cheers for that! That's my weekend sorted :)
Thanks =D
Works a bloody charm too! Was hopping about and high-fiving myself big time in my workshop earlier- managed to 'finally' fix that bloody knackered skybox. Tonight, the Mrs an I shall be watching English telly (a big deal living out here in Germany) with a plate of cheese & onion toasties and a brew..
Thanks again mucker, be well and enjoy the rest of the weekend! :)
Lovely job on that Nomad with some precision soldering!
Thanks =D
Really nice.....recap😉!
Enjoy all those endless hours of fun & take care of that priceless emerald.
Must have been chaos, all thoses caps!
Sega Up, C, Down, C, Down, C, Down, C, Left, C, Right. 😉
=D
I've really enjoyed this 3 part series Chris, watching one of my favourite UA-camrs fix up a SEGA Nomad it doesn't get much better than that. It looks wonderfull by the way and yes I'm super jealous.
Thanks mate =D I wonder if there's anything I can do about that Sega logo... I watched a recent video where someone printed (laser) to a special transfer film and then using water slid the image off onto the device, added some heat (not too high to melt) and the image transfered to the surface.
this has been such an excellent series gadget, i love how honest you are about the nature of repairs, even with all the experience in the world things just go wrong. as for those glass lenses they are always like that, gameboy ones are just as bad.
Cheers =D Thanks, yes I seem to have had more bad luck and mistakes recently for sure lol.
When doing the lifting one side technique I find adding new fresh solder works best. Great series. I am going to try and get a nomad soon.
Also, for your jailbar issue, a few of use are going to see if we can fit a triple bypass board in a nomad. Unfortunately it won’t work on the composite screen but I think benn venn is working on an rgb screen mod.
Hey GadgetUK.
Thanks for the video, i really enjoyed this 3 part series. Just wanted to give you a little tip i used on my Wonderswan regarding the glass lens. I had the same problem you had with the glass screen beeing slighty bigger, but i used a metal nail file to very easily file a bit of the glass screen and it fitted perfectly after.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tip!
This has been a great series, awesome stuff Gadge!
Cheers mate =D
You can't beat a bit of "Bad Apple"
The high voltage warning is probably for the original CCFL backlight.
Great video and work - couple of interesting things I thought whilst watching it - firstly I noticed the board marked 'Venus' in a number of places, which corresponds to Sega's 'planet' codenames - the Game Gear was code named 'Mercury', the 32x was 'Mars', we all know about the Saturn. Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto were unreleased prototypes.
Secondly, I wondered if the Z80 which is used for sound on the MD was used to help run Master System games, and apparently this is the case. A clever cost saving way to implement backwards compatibility, using a chip that is not solely dedicated to the task.
Thirdly, I wondered what the options are for doing a region mod. I remember adding a 50/60hz switch to my Nomad which was very fiddly and quite ugly. I think there is a way to add a switchless mod but I'm not sure. Perhaps the Everdrive is a better solution although I think there are a small handful of PAL games that wouldn't work properly at 60hz.
And finally, try running Virtua Racing on the Nomad, it looks absolutely gorgeous on the small screen.
Yes, I forgot to mention the Venus designation for its codename =D And yes, Z80 for sound, but main CPU in Master System mode. They are easy-ish to region switch. The problem as far as I understand can be with composite, as the timing is incorrect for the colour burst signal, and the CPU not exact the correct speed when the jumper set to 50Hz. You can get a switchless mod that has the PAL crystal onboard too. I might do a mod myself with a PIC chip at some point. Will try out Virtual Racer on there later =D
A fourth method to remove SMD capacitors is to use two soldering irons, one in each hand. Heat up both the pads and once the solder is melted, use the irons to lift the cap off the board. It's my preferred method actually. Quick and safe.
Thanks - will add that up top (with credit), and there's a 5th technique of twisting them (high risk imo).
Nice video. Felt your pain at the screen part. It is always the same. Do you leave it at 99% happy and have to look at it every time or do you go back and tackle Sod's Law one more time to get 100% (and then wish you'd just left it alone as one issue leads to another 🤣).
Thank you, GadgetUK164, I absolutely love my Sega Nomad.
The reason why I love the Sega Nomad was while my military service I played mine for year's. It's a portable genesis which was better than the Gba which I couldn't see unless having proper lighting, but while on ship and a 6 month deployment this was the only gaming device needed, while the Dreamcast was exquisite it needed a t.v. Which was constantly being used by other crew members. So to fix this circumstance I bought a VGA box so I could use PC monitors while playing a variety of gaming consoles but the most important was the VGA box for the dreamcast that I found at a pawn shop was was ultimately allowed me to use my dreamcast even while others monopolized the tv's available.
Nomad: Phantasy Star III, and Might and Magic II: gates to another world.
N64: Conkers Bad Fur Day.
Other's as well but keeping it simple.
Yahoo you mentioned the shunt.
That's incredible, imagine if the Nomad had the 32x support built-in this would give a new dynamic of gaming on this hand-held. Sega CD support would be impressive. Even if everdrive iso stored.
Sorry commenting many time's, would there be any way to make the Nomad stereo without using a monitor speakers or the audio jack.
Woo, part 3! Thanks Gadget! :)
Great video. Nice work!
finally finished huh! Thanks for the videos!
Cheers =D
A better LCD for the Nomad might be PD035VX2, which is 640x480. It should give less interpolation blur. The one you have there is 320x240. $63 with a driver board (Aliexpress) is a lot more expensive though.
Awesome stuff again.
The lines in the screen you're talking about are caused by an effect called dot crawl, visible normally only in composite video signals, which is very visible on places where two very distinct colors meet, or where black and white meet. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dot_crawl
The 4th paragraph in that article says older consoles and computers use a non-standard burst phase, which explains why the screenshot provided in that article is not exactly what is happening to the signal generated by the Genesis, but it's pretty much what is happening in the signal.
The particular issue I beleive wasn't dot crawl! I've seen that before though on other composite videos I've done. In this particular instance its a diagonal wave that goes across the screen from one corner to another, which I've seen before on other systems - often where a switched PSU is used, or there's some ground plane issue. With dot crawl it tends to be super evident on certain colours - eg. red etc. I showed a good example of that up close on the Saturn RGB cable video I did.
It could be that the screen is not locking onto the chroma signal very well. Because now I think about it has similar appearance to that BBC Model B where I showed the difference there between composite and RGB. But maybe that is what dot crawl is - I need to refresh myself lol.
18:03 Lord Voultar wouldn't be pleased with cutting caps for removing xD
Good job I didn't show the 4th technique of twisting them off then =D
PS, those Sega power supplies all have leaky capacitors inside them, too. I forget the proper size - but I wanna say 16v 3000uf, but I'm unable to find that just now, and don't feel like ripping into my power supplies to confirm. But they're all leaking by now - I've fixed about a dozen of them and not a one was good, and they do eventually short out the power supply. They've got a diode inside of them that just gets covered in electrolytic goo.
Awesome series!
Cheers =D
If that lens is as tight as it looked and took that much force to squeeze in there, I'd be worried about the plastic developing cracks over time as that stress the assembly is now under has to go somewhere and it's unlikely the glass will yield first. I'd probably have just returned those lenses as defective.
I saw a guy having trouble fitting a mirror once then he started sanding the edge of the mirror manually with fine sand paper until it fitted, may have worked on the shitty glass screens hope this helps in some way for future issues. I remember my brother bought a sony xperia z1 off a mate a few years ago cheap as it had a broken screen, it was so thin and had to be glued in place it took me 3 costly attempts to fit it and it broke after being used a couple of time each time, before i gave up and bought a chassis with screen fitted, only to find at the end of swapping absolutely every little part of the phone over, that the screen was bulging and coming loose due to clips on the inside that held a small wire in place, i then out of desperation took it apart removed the clips and used superglue and a pin to get between the thin glass and bezel, the glue ruin the screen, i could have cried.
Thanks, that's a nice idea!
I'd shave the plastic very carefully with an x-acto blade until the glass fit without pressure.
That's a really good idea, but I think I would prefer to try and sand the screen protector edges as someone else pointed out though - the reason being is widening the Nomad edge is irreversible vs altering the actual protector!
I'd love one of those, bit out of my price range at the moment though.
I was screaming at my screen when you were struggling to get the glass panel located with the white backing still on.
Haha =D
We've all done similar. :)
Thanks for sharing enjoy your content 😎
Well that's not good, glass doesn't compress. That unit design has a lot of horrendously specific dimensions being as asymmetrical as it is, first time I saw it the slope bugged me heh. Nice to see some MD parts in the NM, hate change in components just for the sake of it. Great series, lot of fun. :D
Hello! Why not use SMD Ceramic capacitors instead of new electrolytic ones?
Ceramic capacitors don't filter the same way wet type aluminium caps do, and they have totally different characteristcs regards how they behave at different temperatures, and they can be affected by vibration and sound (they can oscillate). You could fit them, and not notice too much of a difference, but they are not doing exactly the same job. Ceramic caps also tend to short when they fail.
I don't suppose you know if a similar composite screen would fit in a GameGear? Whilst the mcwill screens are great, I really don't want to spend that much. My GameGear still works but has numerous stuck pixels, so could do with a new screen ideally
I don't think there's a composite signal on the board - if there is you could use the same screen as did probably.
Great series, I’m a little sad it’s over, I bet you’re not 🤣
Thanks 👍
Great videos as always. I've seen one of these available for a fair price. I found out it was working before they carried out a cap change and LCD replacement. They said they pulled off one of the pads in the process but have been able to solder to a trace. But it no longer works. Do ya think it's worth a punt??
Yes, if a pad is broken I am sure you can fix it!
Brilliant I think I'll buy it then. It was all working till they done the cap chamge and LCD so I'm guessing its something they have done wrong
Hello there and thanks for the greatly helpful video!
I've replaced (I think) all my audio caps but the speaker audio is low and distorted.
I also tried with a brand new speaker, same result.
With earbuds it works amazingly, I don't know what to try next...
Any hint, please? :(
Honestly cannot remember much about how the board is laid out regards the speaker circuit. You need to follow the connection from the speaker to find the audio amp circuit. It could be a bad trace around there, corrosion damage etc. Possibly the transistor needs replacing. The fact the headphone audio is OK means the audio amp IC is fine.
7:01 Sounds like someone said "yeah?" In the background in response to u. Lol
who else bothers to make fault find videos?
no one
Thanks =D
Hi gadgetuk164, do you know how to fix SNES with no sound? i replaced the connector, replaced the capacitor but still doesn't work
I would start by running the diagnostic / test BIOS via an Everdrive or SD2SNES. That will give you a clue as to whether there's a problem with the audio chips and related RAM. It could be a fault with one of those.
Hi, sorry to bother you but I'm a bit puzzled here.
I had a look, and the part number for your tube of flux and mine is the same, but yours seems a lot clearer, mine's quite the dark amber colour.
Have you noticed it darkening with time? I've had mine for a while, hence why I'm asking.
Thanks in advance! Great video as always :)
Yes, I've noticed colour variations to Chip Qwik flux too. I buy mine from RS Online, and despite it always having the same thickness and smell (and works the same), the last few batches I've had have varied a little in colour. But it does appear to be identical in all respects other than colour!?!?!
@@GadgetUK164 I've only had the one tube, but yeah seems to work as well as yours, I just recently started using hot air, after watching most of your videos, figured I might be able to pull it off too. Let's just say the second time went really well :P Thanks for the answer and all the tips and tricks you're sharing, much appreciated!
Niiiceeee!
Warm up the shell a little to allow expansion and flex? Just a little?
=D I think the opposite is required actually! You need to cool the shell (plastic and metal contracts with cold, but will expand with heat. The heat technique can help free up rusted / stuck screws / bolts though, the idea being that the outside of the thing you are screwing into comes loose a bit from the expansion and contraction. I suspect these screens will be easier to fit when the platic is colder.
Hi do you know anywhere that offers a modding service for the nomad just purchased one today or could I send it you and we could discuss a price I've got all the parts I want fitted
Sorry I don't know anyone that offers this service =/ You could ask @A3rgan on Twitter!
Are you having a contest for the glass give away?
Yes, I will do a giveaway of the glass and that 3D printed mount - might add something else for the Nomad in there yet too.
@@GadgetUK164 That will be awesome. I had no idea about enabling Master System, I'm going to have to try that on mine although mine has a white washed screen and it's a bit rough to see proper but the video out works great.
4:30 am!
Plz help me i have gameboy advance sp not working i change battery and not working what promlem in bord and how repair
See my Gameboy Advance video. It could be one of the internal fuses on the PCB, maybe corrosion related too?
@@GadgetUK164 thanks i will see
Great mini-series there, Gadget. I'm worried about the stress that screen glass will be under, though. A bit of flexing the case with over exuberent playing might be enough to crack it. I also noticed that the cap you replaced at 20:37 is 16v, not 6v. Is that why it's a bit too big for the connections?
Thanks =D Yes, that one that was large is 16v! But I am sure a smaller one (physically) could be sourced. The one that was on there originally isn't as tight a fit!
I'm guessing a 6v one would be smaller, though, right?
Yes, it would be! You would need to check what part of the circuit it's on first - just incase more than 5v is connected to it.
Only came here because of the Bad Apple thumbnail oof