📌📌 This was the first project I did to this truck after bringing it home, and I thought I should show just how easy it is! Let me know if anyone has any other methods to lowering these old Mopars! 📌📌
👍 good video. Just bought a '87 2x4 Ramcharger project. I've been looking for this rig ever since I saw one a few years ago that had been lowered and thought it looked excellent. I whole heartedly agree with you that the right stance and wheels and tires make the whole project. Everything else is just frosting on the cake. Thanks for the informative, well executed video. A lot of people doing instructional videos on UA-cam may know their stuff but are painfull to watch. Well done.
Just did that with my Dakota, Lower arms from DJM 2" spring pocket drop, so I can run the stock spring rate coils and whatever shocks I wanted at stock height. No need to use a drop coil because that messes up the geometry and you have to run a drop shock. Especially when 90s/00s arms use rivets to mount the ball joints bushings.
I've heard about the Day drop spindles, but using the B-series van lower control arms was a more economical option. Drive shaft angle shouldn't be a concern with dropping the rear just a few inches.
Just wondering if the pinion angle changed at all with this change on the rear. Have you noticed any driveshaft vibration? I mean, it looks like a pretty even drop, but hard to tell in photos.
You could probably do that, but that would drop the rear more than 2 inches, and cause the rear to sit lower than the front. Plus, it would probably require welding on new spring perches and mounts for the shock. Using a drop-shackle and flipping the front spring hanger is less involved, and makes it easier to match the rear with the front.
@@MoonBuiltGarage You are definitely right, it would require rewelding the perches. Your method is great if you don't have access to a welder and stuff, and probably easier. Yes, doing the spring under swap would lower it about 3 inches (giver or take).
You combine the axle flip and drop shackle with b150 lower control arms, dakota drop spindles and lower springs in the front and it slams the truck with 6" drop in front and 8 in rear.
X2 industries sells the parts to make this easy I purchased them all the lower control arms, upper tube a arm, rear c not kit with axle flip, but I'm using this for a race truck, it's been pretty easy
will be sitting 2 to 5 inches from the ground in the from and the same for the rear. But I'm going to be using air bags too. Yes its maybe a couple hundred cheaper but they have all in one place. And if you have the money why not get it?
Good video! I’ve just started my own D100 build and am curious if you have any suggestions on how to lower the front of my 4x4 D100 (also a 75). Not looking for a ton of drop or to cause major pinion angle issues but want to change the stance a bit.
I don't know really anything about the 4x4 versions (W100 right?). When I was working on a Jeep CJ-7 way back I wanted to do something similar to get the Center-of-Gravity down a bit, so I installed longer shackles to get a bit of drop...like the ones I used on the back of my D100 come to think of it. You might be able to find some flatter leaf springs, but if an off-road situation that could cause its own problems. For a slight drop I would look at longer shackles possibly....maybe someone with some experience with a W100 will chime in
I have a 89 dodge ram w100. 4 wheel drive 318 5.2 engine. rebuilding my trans. Is There any way to determine between the a727 36rh. And 988 31rh an a999 32rh. First time rebuilding a transmission. Anything will be helpful. they all seem very similar.
First, the trans pans will quickly show whether its a 727 or 904 (36rh or 31)...I don't know about the 999 (32rh). The difference between the 727 and 36rh is the addition of an electrical connector on the driver's side of the trans case, same for the 904 or 31rh. Actually, the 727 became the A518 before the 46rh... It's all a bit confusing....I think mine is actually an A518 since the there is no lock-up in mine; I think the 46rh has lock-up and overdrive, but I could be mistaken....Like I said, it's all a bit confusing
The only problem is the upper ball joint angle will be off, ya need Brandon sj fruths upper control arms to correct the ball joint angle and give you more camber adjustment
There are no issues with the ball joint angle. The only difference between the truck lower control arm and the van lower is the depth of the spring pocket. The ball joint location is the same, so it doesn't change the ball joint angle
The lower control arms I got have press in ball joints, but it seems as though they can come with either press in our screw in. I couldn't remember exactly so I crawled under the truck to look, then I went to rockauto to see what they offered. For both the D100 and the B200 (which these control arms are for a b-series van) rockauto carries both types.
Yeah, it's frustrating, but it is also what makes this hobby so much fun!! I like working through the difficulties, and I hope to be able to consolidate more information on this channel to help others with their projects. Have fun with that Ramcharger!
You have the automatic transmission in that one, i have a 76 custom 4 speed. I'm thinking about converting my truck to a 727 auto, but it takes some wiring changes, not sure if i want to deal with that.
It will be once I'm actually able to get back to work on it. The trans has been rebuilt and a shift kit has been added. The engine will be getting some much needed love, and upgrades 😎, once I'm back in the garage....
Have you seen that holley has a series of gen 3 hemi swap parts for these trucks now?www.holley.com/products/engine_swap_parts/hemi_swap_systems/1972-93_dodge_d100_and_d150_gen_iii_hemi_swap_components/
What exactly are the issues you can run into with cutting. A coil off that’s exactly what my dad a j did on my old 78 d100 and then did the same in the rear except we knocked the rivets out and moved the rear hangar up cut the ears off at the top and used the two other existing holes for mounting spots. But I drove the thing for 5 years as my daily before I sold it and never had any issues with the cut coils in the front. I’m currently lowering a 79 d100 but haven’t cut the coils yet cuz I’m curious what issues that supposedly causes
Dirt Shart..First, cutting your coils will change the spring rate, making the ride stiffer. Second, it may may not sit right in the spring pocket after cutting since the end of the spring, if I remember right, has a flat side to it and the spring pocket has an area designed into it for the spring to sit in. By cutting the flat end off the spring it won't sit right in the pockets and the only way to make it sit right again would be to heat it up, which you NEVER want to do to a coil spring. Once heated, the metal in the spring will anneal, becoming softer, which is not good for the spring. Basically, if softened too much, it won't be able to hold up the weight of the vehicle.
MoonBuilt Garage no it was like perfect for the spring pocket i just cut it straight down below the end of the coil on the bottom side and the stock lower arm had sort of a recessed area that the spring sets in and once cut it just set right in there and we just put shorter shocks on it lowers it about 3in and I’d think stiffer would be better when lower I know my mustang was but I bought aftermarket lowering springs for it
MoonBuilt Garage I mean I guess like you said about being a cheap ass lol well I could be classified as that I guess I’ll take my chances again lol if it messes it up I’m lucky enough to be in a area where I can usually pick up these 72-80 tin grille dodges for less than $500 I’ve currently got 5 of them one is a parts truck now for the other 4
@@dirtshart If it works for ya, go for it. I prefer the stock feel of the suspension over being stiffer. Must be nice being able to find these trucks easy, and for cheap. I have a hell of time finding parts
MoonBuilt Garage ya I’ve been stocking up cuz the foxbody cars were this same way a like 10 years ago I have three of them too but now they are hard to find for cheap or they are junkers and not cheap lol
I just showed up. Sorry I’m so late to the mopar moonbuilt party! 1993 Dakota LE regcab short box 2wd with 5.2 and it’s a bone stock survivor! 132k and dang near every original part…except the water pump, of course! 😂😂😂😂 this truck has seen 5 all told! 😂😂😂
📌📌 This was the first project I did to this truck after bringing it home, and I thought I should show just how easy it is! Let me know if anyone has any other methods to lowering these old Mopars! 📌📌
THANK YOU ‼‼‼FOR YOUR TIME AND VIDEO‼‼👍👏👊👊
👍 good video. Just bought a '87 2x4 Ramcharger project. I've been looking for this rig ever since I saw one a few years ago that had been lowered and thought it looked excellent. I whole heartedly agree with you that the right stance and wheels and tires make the whole project. Everything else is just frosting on the cake. Thanks for the informative, well executed video. A lot of people doing instructional videos on UA-cam may know their stuff but are painfull to watch. Well done.
Thanks. Good luck with the Ramcharger
Just did that with my Dakota, Lower arms from DJM 2" spring pocket drop, so I can run the stock spring rate coils and whatever shocks I wanted at stock height. No need to use a drop coil because that messes up the geometry and you have to run a drop shock. Especially when 90s/00s arms use rivets to mount the ball joints bushings.
I'm here a little late but can't wait to see catch up on the build I'm building an 86 short box body off rebuild
Never too late!
Dodge dakota drop spindles in the front work perfect and remember to check your drive shaft angle on the rear. Good video man
I've heard about the Day drop spindles, but using the B-series van lower control arms was a more economical option. Drive shaft angle shouldn't be a concern with dropping the rear just a few inches.
Excellent video, great details. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I tried to do this but my lower ball joint on the van lower arm will not go into the spindle what balljoint did you use
I used the balljoint listed for the D100, but I think they are the same. You should be able to cross-reference the parts at Rockauto or other sites
On the front hangers what size bolt fit best?
Just wondering if the pinion angle changed at all with this change on the rear. Have you noticed any driveshaft vibration? I mean, it looks like a pretty even drop, but hard to tell in photos.
No issues what so ever
@@MoonBuiltGarage NICE! Looks like a great alternative to axle flip. Cheers!
I have read of people changing the axle to be over the leaf springs, instead of under the leaf springs.
You could probably do that, but that would drop the rear more than 2 inches, and cause the rear to sit lower than the front. Plus, it would probably require welding on new spring perches and mounts for the shock. Using a drop-shackle and flipping the front spring hanger is less involved, and makes it easier to match the rear with the front.
@@MoonBuiltGarage You are definitely right, it would require rewelding the perches. Your method is great if you don't have access to a welder and stuff, and probably easier. Yes, doing the spring under swap would lower it about 3 inches (giver or take).
@@JoeyGarcia 6"
You combine the axle flip and drop shackle with b150 lower control arms, dakota drop spindles and lower springs in the front and it slams the truck with 6" drop in front and 8 in rear.
X2 industries sells the parts to make this easy I purchased them all the lower control arms, upper tube a arm, rear c not kit with axle flip, but I'm using this for a race truck, it's been pretty easy
I'll have to check them out
Piecing parts together are cheaper
will be sitting 2 to 5 inches from the ground in the from and the same for the rear. But I'm going to be using air bags too. Yes its maybe a couple hundred cheaper but they have all in one place. And if you have the money why not get it?
No point in buying any of it if your bagging it
@@MrHotrodharry really? I wont need c notch's for the rear or drop spindles? For the the front?
Were you able to get an alignment after because I took mine in today for one and the tie rods didn't adjust enough did I do something wrong
Me pasas el contacto para las orquídeas la mía la baje pero topa corte los resortes
Good video! I’ve just started my own D100 build and am curious if you have any suggestions on how to lower the front of my 4x4 D100 (also a 75). Not looking for a ton of drop or to cause major pinion angle issues but want to change the stance a bit.
I don't know really anything about the 4x4 versions (W100 right?). When I was working on a Jeep CJ-7 way back I wanted to do something similar to get the Center-of-Gravity down a bit, so I installed longer shackles to get a bit of drop...like the ones I used on the back of my D100 come to think of it. You might be able to find some flatter leaf springs, but if an off-road situation that could cause its own problems.
For a slight drop I would look at longer shackles possibly....maybe someone with some experience with a W100 will chime in
After lowering the rear did you notice if your driveshaft was bottoming out?
Not even close. The amount of difference was negligible
I have a 89 dodge ram w100. 4 wheel drive 318 5.2 engine. rebuilding my trans. Is There any way to determine between the a727 36rh. And 988 31rh an a999 32rh. First time rebuilding a transmission. Anything will be helpful. they all seem very similar.
First, the trans pans will quickly show whether its a 727 or 904 (36rh or 31)...I don't know about the 999 (32rh). The difference between the 727 and 36rh is the addition of an electrical connector on the driver's side of the trans case, same for the 904 or 31rh. Actually, the 727 became the A518 before the 46rh... It's all a bit confusing....I think mine is actually an A518 since the there is no lock-up in mine; I think the 46rh has lock-up and overdrive, but I could be mistaken....Like I said, it's all a bit confusing
Actually 79 to about 2000 for the B series Van lower control arms
Are those 235/75/15 tires or did you go lower profile?
They are, but will eventually be going to a 17" wheel probably, so they will be lower profile
Are you a member of the Tin Grill Dodge forum on FB? You should join us if not.
I have a 75 D100 long bed truck...
I'll have to check it out! Thanks
What wheels are on your truck?
Honestly, I have no idea...they were on the truck when I bought it
The only problem is the upper ball joint angle will be off, ya need Brandon sj fruths upper control arms to correct the ball joint angle and give you more camber adjustment
There are no issues with the ball joint angle. The only difference between the truck lower control arm and the van lower is the depth of the spring pocket. The ball joint location is the same, so it doesn't change the ball joint angle
Bottom ball joint pressed in or screw in?
The lower control arms I got have press in ball joints, but it seems as though they can come with either press in our screw in. I couldn't remember exactly so I crawled under the truck to look, then I went to rockauto to see what they offered. For both the D100 and the B200 (which these control arms are for a b-series van) rockauto carries both types.
One last comment, devil dog! 2146 main battle tank mechanic! USMC HOORAH!!!
YUT! 2831 Multi-Channel Radio Repair
I feel you on lack of aftermarket parts. It really sucks. I have a ‘91 Ramcharger and lowered it without knowing what you posted. Thanks.
Yeah, it's frustrating, but it is also what makes this hobby so much fun!! I like working through the difficulties, and I hope to be able to consolidate more information on this channel to help others with their projects. Have fun with that Ramcharger!
MoonBuilt Garage what I really want to do is go modern and stuff a Hemi in it from a charger or hell cat.
I've considered that, but I've decided to go another route....more on that to come once I'm able to get back home and in the garage
Do you NEED to flip the front spring hanger like you said, or did you flip it to get more drop? Thanks.
Don't NEED to flip it, it just gives a bit more drop
So you only change the lower control arm and grind the top one the end tie rod was needed for this mod or just regular maintenance?
Yeah, only there lower control arm gets replaced. I replaced the tie-rod end just because I was in there, and it was looking pretty shot.
You have the automatic transmission in that one, i have a 76 custom 4 speed. I'm thinking about converting my truck to a 727 auto, but it takes some wiring changes, not sure if i want to deal with that.
Yeah, I've got the TF904. The truck was originally a straight-6, manual, but somewhere along the line it got a LA360 automatic
@@MoonBuiltGarage
360 automatic, that should be a happy truck now.
It will be once I'm actually able to get back to work on it. The trans has been rebuilt and a shift kit has been added. The engine will be getting some much needed love, and upgrades 😎, once I'm back in the garage....
Only wires are for the Neutral Safety Switch
Have you seen that holley has a series of gen 3 hemi swap parts for these trucks now?www.holley.com/products/engine_swap_parts/hemi_swap_systems/1972-93_dodge_d100_and_d150_gen_iii_hemi_swap_components/
I had not seen that! I considered going with a Hemi, but I have some plans for the LA360 that was in it
Do you NEED to flip the front spring hanger like you said, or did you flip it to get more drop?
You don't NEED to, but you will get more drop by flipping it.
How does it drive?
Drives great! Still needs a bit of an alignment, but it's barely noticeable
Thanks!
You bet!
What exactly are the issues you can run into with cutting. A coil off that’s exactly what my dad a j did on my old 78 d100 and then did the same in the rear except we knocked the rivets out and moved the rear hangar up cut the ears off at the top and used the two other existing holes for mounting spots. But I drove the thing for 5 years as my daily before I sold it and never had any issues with the cut coils in the front. I’m currently lowering a 79 d100 but haven’t cut the coils yet cuz I’m curious what issues that supposedly causes
Dirt Shart..First, cutting your coils will change the spring rate, making the ride stiffer. Second, it may may not sit right in the spring pocket after cutting since the end of the spring, if I remember right, has a flat side to it and the spring pocket has an area designed into it for the spring to sit in. By cutting the flat end off the spring it won't sit right in the pockets and the only way to make it sit right again would be to heat it up, which you NEVER want to do to a coil spring. Once heated, the metal in the spring will anneal, becoming softer, which is not good for the spring. Basically, if softened too much, it won't be able to hold up the weight of the vehicle.
MoonBuilt Garage no it was like perfect for the spring pocket i just cut it straight down below the end of the coil on the bottom side and the stock lower arm had sort of a recessed area that the spring sets in and once cut it just set right in there and we just put shorter shocks on it lowers it about 3in and I’d think stiffer would be better when lower I know my mustang was but I bought aftermarket lowering springs for it
MoonBuilt Garage I mean I guess like you said about being a cheap ass lol well I could be classified as that I guess I’ll take my chances again lol if it messes it up I’m lucky enough to be in a area where I can usually pick up these 72-80 tin grille dodges for less than $500 I’ve currently got 5 of them one is a parts truck now for the other 4
@@dirtshart If it works for ya, go for it. I prefer the stock feel of the suspension over being stiffer.
Must be nice being able to find these trucks easy, and for cheap. I have a hell of time finding parts
MoonBuilt Garage ya I’ve been stocking up cuz the foxbody cars were this same way a like 10 years ago I have three of them too but now they are hard to find for cheap or they are junkers and not cheap lol
I just showed up. Sorry I’m so late to the mopar moonbuilt party!
1993 Dakota LE regcab short box 2wd with 5.2 and it’s a bone stock survivor! 132k and dang near every original part…except the water pump, of course! 😂😂😂😂 this truck has seen 5 all told! 😂😂😂
Nice! I have a hard time leaving anything stock..
0:35 IMO, I would just drop the rear about 2” and you’re done. Level it out, not drop! You still need to function properly!
Functions great with the drop in the front. The van control arms don't change any of the steering or suspension geometry
Nice.
Thanks!
Solid
1935?