....thorough...meticulous....inspired solutions.....just fabulous in all aspects.....this project manager has an incredible employee......you've got my vote......good show.....
Ever since I started watching this build, I became hooked! It didn't stop at the one episode, I decided to take your suggestion and started watching the beginning! Quite the journey! I can just imagine how the car will put rubber to the road!
Well props to whoever suggested that you replace hose clamps with spring clamps, they are much better, they have been industry standard for near 30 years , certainly my 91 ZR1 has them. Have you ever wrapped a rubber band around your finger or wrist, you notice with every little movement the band gets tighter, it is the same with the spring clamp, who ever invented them must be :)
I enjoy living vicariously through your escapades. This will be the best version of this car anywhere given your propensity to change each element to its optimal condition.
Thanks Aaron! You’re going to have so much fun with your build!! An RS for myself might be in my future too. A coupe and convertible in the stable would be killer!! 😎
I've watched 120 seconds of this video and you have me as a subscriber. All I had to hear was "V10 Ultima" I am very excited to keep up with this project
Great video series always look forward to your updates - really jealous of all the different tools and 3D printer but glad to see they are being used and not gathering dust - keep up the great work
Once again, a job with pleasure and affection. I am just installing a 2.5 of an Rs3 in a Ktm x bow, and you have reminded me of a problem I had with the wiring. the crankshaft sensor, (engine rpm). You will have to do the same wheel system, if you need information(I use ecu link), it will be a pleasure to help you.
Nice progress; can't wait to hear that V-10 roar! For the speed sensor bracket, there's still time to drill a recess and insert another heat-set thread on the top of the bracket, and secure the harness wire with a p-clip instead of a cable tie. Inspired by Retropower (ua-cam.com/users/retropowercars), who make provision for every nut, bolt and fastener during body prep stage, so that they never have to cable tie anything!
Hi Dan, I have signed up for Fusion 360 as a result of following your adventures. However, I will remain a fan of looking for obscure parts for my project through a certain auction website and think that a dab of white paint might have spared making up a "speed sensor gear"! What is very pleasing is watching your attachment to doing this project properly.
I started with Fusion360 for making custom 3D printed stuff. But then I got my CNC plasma table and could use it for that too! And at some point, I want to try my hand at full CNC machining. It’s well worth climbing the learning curve as the possibilities are endless when you can design stuff yourself. 💪
Love the attention to detail on your build! Would you mind sharing the Amazon link for the connector set you purchased? That looks like a nice one. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! And here's the link to the DT connector kit i showed in the video: www.amazon.com/dp/B08DFFGFHH?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KTQZZQM9KG6VDZFSKZ97
Warning Some modules get very HOT and cook themselves. Vehicle manufacturers often don't care if they do this as long as it doesn't cause a recall. Putting heat sinks on all modules and isolating them from vibration is a must if you want to avoid failures and fires. Fuel pump control modules can be the worst offenders, the higher the current they supply to the pumps the hotter they will get.
Hmmm...in that case, maybe i'll just strap it to the raw aluminum bulkhead that will act as a monster heat sink. Although, that won't dampen vibration. I'll have to noodle on this one! (On the R8/Huracan, this module is mounted in the interior just behind the drivers seat so hopefully it doesn't get that hot.)
@@DanDulac . Just a general warning about a possibility for problems. That module might not get that hot but then again the magic smoke has a bad habit of escaping if you don't treat it with respect. You can get a heat conductive silicone rubber material in a lovely Nardo grey I believe
Hey Dan, ever here of the ClampTite tool for making custom clamps of any size and shape? Very clean look for jobs such as your own. Great videos and I can’t wait to here the engine roar!
Those limit straps will bend the lower a-arms. The right angle of the attachment will torque a rotation, collapsing the tube. You could make a better bracket that pulls inline with the strap, removing the rotation problem.
My intention is that limit straps *only* come under tension when raising the car off the ground. In this case, the suspension arms will be fine as the strap tension is engaged slowly and there’s not a lot of strain on them as it’s just the weight of the wheel and tender spring.
@@DanDulac I think the straps will be in full use (occasionally limiting travel) if you are going over 60mph... The connector on the a-arm will be receiving repeated impulses, which will want to rotate the connector, and collapse the a-arm tube. The strap idea is good, the connector is not. Is the a-arm solid? If so ill shut up :>
I can’t see how the straps will be occasionally limiting travel while driving (spirited or normal) if I’ve set them up right. As they are setup now, they limit about 1” of extra droop under just the weight of the tender spring and wheel/tire. They are not under main spring tension. If that becomes the case, I will need to adjust the straps so the straps are never under strain when the car is on the ground, regardless of spirited driving and within normal suspension travel range. That lower tube is not solid; it’s a 1” steel tube 3/32 wall (I think).
@@DanDulac You have hands on, and you know what you know what you are doing. I am just watching a video, and the angles looked a little suspect to me, because I jump my car all the time... :> I am glad to see you are using cf nylon 3d printer parts. If any of them fail, please make a video showing the failure, and your next version of the part to prevent the failure. Good luck with build. It looks like a winner.
@@tazanteflight8670 thanks for your extra set of eyes-I really appreciate it! And will do on the 3D printed parts. 👍 oh, I I don’t plan on jumping this thing-especially with the limit straps. That would probably be bad. 😂
If you look at a Porsche when it's on a lift , you can see that the suspension barely droops at all . It's designed for up travel not for down travel , the down travel is barely over an inch .
It would have been better to have the join not on a mounting hole. with a keyed instead of straight cut. With the join on the fastening surface they will easily get out of position as they are tightened and will be a pain to try and keep in place. Also you need only put one cut in them as you could flex them past the axle without bending them. Aside from that you can buy tone rings that slip onto CV joints with a bit of heat. What grade of stainless is that ? if it's not magnetic enough the sensor will read the fasteners instead of the tone ring and cause errors.
All great advice Amon. I actually have a spare ring (in 2 halves) where I could weld one seam together, leaving the other split--just as you suggest. While i am able to get the ring concentric with both halves, I'm going to do as you suggest...I knew there was a reason I ordered an extra ring while I was at it! Oh--and I mis-spoke on the vid: it's A1008 cold rolled steel...which I will powdercoat to prevent rusting.
Your work is truly inspiring, makes me hope to be able to work on something like this one day. If you don't mind me asking, how did you learn all these skills and knowledge? Are you an engineer? I'm studying mechanical engineering myself and I have some experience with 3d printing and composite materials but I have almost zero real world experience.
Thank you for your kind words! 🙏 You’re on the right path with your formal studies. I have a college degree in Mathematics but started in Mechanical Engineering. However, regardless of your education, the key is to follow your passion. Most of my own learning is attained by simply doing. I take one task at a time, research what it takes and jump in and try. And don’t be afraid to ask questions and get help; you have access to so many resources in todays social media rich landscape…Hope this helps!
You might have a problem with the hall effect sensor picking up the stainless tone ring. It's probably best to use a steel tone ring that is plated. Have you done any testing with that tone ring?
Good call! I actually mis-spoke in the video. I double checked my order and in fact, the rings are cut from A1008 cold rolled steel. So I should be all set!
Are you not worried the bottom mount of the limit straps could slide inward with enough force? Although the maximum force would probably only be the tire falling from a couple inches so maybe it's ok
Yep-good thought. Once I do final alignment and ride height adjustment, I’m going to drill and tap a set bolt so there’s zero chance of that lower strap bracket from sliding. 👍
I thought about that *after* I sent them to get laser cut. Oh well...with some careful alignment when tightening the CV bolts, i can get them nearly perfectly concentric.
Exactly right. I mis-spoke on the video and looked up the metal I used for those gears. It’s A1008 cold rolled steel. The more ferrous the metal, the better for the sensor pickup. 👍
Excellent
....thorough...meticulous....inspired solutions.....just fabulous in all aspects.....this project manager has an incredible employee......you've got my vote......good show.....
Ever since I started watching this build, I became hooked! It didn't stop at the one episode, I decided to take your suggestion and started watching the beginning! Quite the journey! I can just imagine how the car will put rubber to the road!
Missed this video some how🤷
Glad you went the spring clamp route. 👍
With the proper tool they can be quicker and easier than worm clamps.
Well props to whoever suggested that you replace hose clamps with spring clamps, they are much better, they have been industry standard for near 30 years , certainly my 91 ZR1 has them. Have you ever wrapped a rubber band around your finger or wrist, you notice with every little movement the band gets tighter, it is the same with the spring clamp, who ever invented them must be :)
I enjoy living vicariously through your escapades. This will be the best version of this car anywhere given your propensity to change each element to its optimal condition.
Can't wait to hear it!
Amazing work! I ordered my RS beginning of December so I’m living through you for now. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Aaron! You’re going to have so much fun with your build!! An RS for myself might be in my future too. A coupe and convertible in the stable would be killer!! 😎
I've watched 120 seconds of this video and you have me as a subscriber. All I had to hear was "V10 Ultima" I am very excited to keep up with this project
Welcome to the madness Rob! 🤪 I’m glad you found my channel-it’s sure to get alot more exciting in the weeks ahead. 👍
Great video series always look forward to your updates - really jealous of all the different tools and 3D printer but glad to see they are being used and not gathering dust - keep up the great work
All looks great Dan stay safe and well from the UK
Love your content.... i can't wait to see the end result
Once again, a job with pleasure and affection. I am just installing a 2.5 of an Rs3 in a Ktm x bow, and you have reminded me of a problem I had with the wiring. the crankshaft sensor, (engine rpm). You will have to do the same wheel system, if you need information(I use ecu link), it will be a pleasure to help you.
Epic as always cant wait for the start up 😎
Me too! And first start is not that far away. 💪
Nice progress; can't wait to hear that V-10 roar! For the speed sensor bracket, there's still time to drill a recess and insert another heat-set thread on the top of the bracket, and secure the harness wire with a p-clip instead of a cable tie. Inspired by Retropower (ua-cam.com/users/retropowercars), who make provision for every nut, bolt and fastener during body prep stage, so that they never have to cable tie anything!
Great idea! I'm going to take your advice. Thank you for the suggestion!
Hi Dan, I have signed up for Fusion 360 as a result of following your adventures. However, I will remain a fan of looking for obscure parts for my project through a certain auction website and think that a dab of white paint might have spared making up a "speed sensor gear"!
What is very pleasing is watching your attachment to doing this project properly.
I started with Fusion360 for making custom 3D printed stuff. But then I got my CNC plasma table and could use it for that too! And at some point, I want to try my hand at full CNC machining. It’s well worth climbing the learning curve as the possibilities are endless when you can design stuff yourself. 💪
Love the attention to detail on your build! Would you mind sharing the Amazon link for the connector set you purchased? That looks like a nice one. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! And here's the link to the DT connector kit i showed in the video: www.amazon.com/dp/B08DFFGFHH?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KTQZZQM9KG6VDZFSKZ97
Warning
Some modules get very HOT and cook themselves.
Vehicle manufacturers often don't care if they do this as long as it doesn't cause a recall.
Putting heat sinks on all modules and isolating them from vibration is a must if you want to avoid failures and fires.
Fuel pump control modules can be the worst offenders, the higher the current they supply to the pumps the hotter they will get.
Hmmm...in that case, maybe i'll just strap it to the raw aluminum bulkhead that will act as a monster heat sink. Although, that won't dampen vibration. I'll have to noodle on this one! (On the R8/Huracan, this module is mounted in the interior just behind the drivers seat so hopefully it doesn't get that hot.)
@@DanDulac . Just a general warning about a possibility for problems.
That module might not get that hot but then again the magic smoke has a bad habit of escaping if you don't treat it with respect.
You can get a heat conductive silicone rubber material in a lovely Nardo grey I believe
Hey Dan, ever here of the ClampTite tool for making custom clamps of any size and shape? Very clean look for jobs such as your own. Great videos and I can’t wait to here the engine roar!
Hi G-nope never heard of it. I’ll look it up!! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Those limit straps will bend the lower a-arms. The right angle of the attachment will torque a rotation, collapsing the tube. You could make a better bracket that pulls inline with the strap, removing the rotation problem.
My intention is that limit straps *only* come under tension when raising the car off the ground. In this case, the suspension arms will be fine as the strap tension is engaged slowly and there’s not a lot of strain on them as it’s just the weight of the wheel and tender spring.
@@DanDulac I think the straps will be in full use (occasionally limiting travel) if you are going over 60mph... The connector on the a-arm will be receiving repeated impulses, which will want to rotate the connector, and collapse the a-arm tube. The strap idea is good, the connector is not. Is the a-arm solid? If so ill shut up :>
I can’t see how the straps will be occasionally limiting travel while driving (spirited or normal) if I’ve set them up right. As they are setup now, they limit about 1” of extra droop under just the weight of the tender spring and wheel/tire. They are not under main spring tension. If that becomes the case, I will need to adjust the straps so the straps are never under strain when the car is on the ground, regardless of spirited driving and within normal suspension travel range. That lower tube is not solid; it’s a 1” steel tube 3/32 wall (I think).
@@DanDulac You have hands on, and you know what you know what you are doing. I am just watching a video, and the angles looked a little suspect to me, because I jump my car all the time... :> I am glad to see you are using cf nylon 3d printer parts. If any of them fail, please make a video showing the failure, and your next version of the part to prevent the failure. Good luck with build. It looks like a winner.
@@tazanteflight8670 thanks for your extra set of eyes-I really appreciate it! And will do on the 3D printed parts. 👍 oh, I I don’t plan on jumping this thing-especially with the limit straps. That would probably be bad. 😂
If you look at a Porsche when it's on a lift , you can see that the suspension barely droops at all . It's designed for up travel not for down travel , the down travel is barely over an inch .
It would have been better to have the join not on a mounting hole. with a keyed instead of straight cut.
With the join on the fastening surface they will easily get out of position as they are tightened and will be a pain to try and keep in place.
Also you need only put one cut in them as you could flex them past the axle without bending them.
Aside from that you can buy tone rings that slip onto CV joints with a bit of heat.
What grade of stainless is that ? if it's not magnetic enough the sensor will read the fasteners instead of the tone ring and cause errors.
All great advice Amon. I actually have a spare ring (in 2 halves) where I could weld one seam together, leaving the other split--just as you suggest. While i am able to get the ring concentric with both halves, I'm going to do as you suggest...I knew there was a reason I ordered an extra ring while I was at it! Oh--and I mis-spoke on the vid: it's A1008 cold rolled steel...which I will powdercoat to prevent rusting.
@@DanDulac . Don't weld it .
May be just the bottom away from the sensor will be OK.
Welding can create a density change that might affect the sensor.
Your work is truly inspiring, makes me hope to be able to work on something like this one day. If you don't mind me asking, how did you learn all these skills and knowledge? Are you an engineer? I'm studying mechanical engineering myself and I have some experience with 3d printing and composite materials but I have almost zero real world experience.
Thank you for your kind words! 🙏 You’re on the right path with your formal studies. I have a college degree in Mathematics but started in Mechanical Engineering. However, regardless of your education, the key is to follow your passion. Most of my own learning is attained by simply doing. I take one task at a time, research what it takes and jump in and try. And don’t be afraid to ask questions and get help; you have access to so many resources in todays social media rich landscape…Hope this helps!
@@DanDulac Thanks for the advice and good luck with the build, I will keep following your progress
👍👍👍
👍
You might have a problem with the hall effect sensor picking up the stainless tone ring. It's probably best to use a steel tone ring that is plated. Have you done any testing with that tone ring?
Good call! I actually mis-spoke in the video. I double checked my order and in fact, the rings are cut from A1008 cold rolled steel. So I should be all set!
@@DanDulac good catch, I was going to comment the same thing 👍🏻
Are you not worried the bottom mount of the limit straps could slide inward with enough force? Although the maximum force would probably only be the tire falling from a couple inches so maybe it's ok
Yep-good thought. Once I do final alignment and ride height adjustment, I’m going to drill and tap a set bolt so there’s zero chance of that lower strap bracket from sliding. 👍
Make an episode of your 3d printer, and slicer, and cad programs you are using!
Great idea. 👍. I’ll add this vid to my list!
🙌🏽✨🌟✨🌟✨🌟
Dan, rather than split the ring directly through the holes, why didn’t you split them between the holes?
I thought about that *after* I sent them to get laser cut. Oh well...with some careful alignment when tightening the CV bolts, i can get them nearly perfectly concentric.
Or you could have done it the way most kit cars do it an pick up on the cv bolt heads, great build tho looking forward to the day that it's all done
Shouldn't you use galvanized iron for a reluctor wheel in stead of stainless steel?
Exactly right. I mis-spoke on the video and looked up the metal I used for those gears. It’s A1008 cold rolled steel. The more ferrous the metal, the better for the sensor pickup. 👍
Coloque legendas para o portugues
Your Baby will be on the road soon.
Thanks Dave-with any luck, it will indeed. 👍.
p͓̽r͓̽o͓̽m͓̽o͓̽s͓̽m͓̽ ☹️