What really holds up as a wood finish is paraffin wax, the same stuff they use for canning. Its what they put on maple butcher's blocks. I watched a guy who used to resurface these blocks, win a case of beer.The guy betting him didn't think he could drive the wax down 2" into the block. He drilled an 1/8" hole 2" from the top and hot wax ran right out of it. He would put a couple sticks of the wax, and a little turpentine into an old coffee pot until it was liquid. Then he would pour the hot wax on the block and using an old electric iron he would "iron" the wax in. I think the reason why this works so well, is that cutting blocks are end grain, just like your samples are, wood is just a bunch of straws waiting to be filled. Love seeing those old saws in action. Looking forward to the next video.
Using wax to penetrate wood is something I knew nothing about. Very interesting. On wood handles, the linseed oil is used to soak into the wood by capillary action into the fibers, to keep them supple and flexible, so that the shock imparted by dead blow force doesn't break them. Thanks for the info, always like to learn something new, and the nice comment.
I think some of the better wood deck finishes now incorporate some paraffin wax in them. If you can get it thinned out enough it should work on face grain also. Just not as good.@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156
Got my youngest daughters winter garden tilled this past weekend. Hardest soil I have ever tilled up - red clay. Had to cut all kinds of tree roots from it with an axe. My free little Troy Built did a good job. She had been turning it with a shovel for a couple of years. Got it planted, yesterday after liming and ferterlizer got it. Should be up in a couple of weeks.
Wow that tree was mad at you and got you back taking hard hat clear off ya!!! Haha that was good!! Glad it didn’t hurt you though. I have a red/Blk XL-1 which I believe is the Canadian version of the EZ. I was using it last fall and I didn’t notice the rubber grommet was missing where the mixture screw holes are so I think it sucked in some sawdust and scored up the piston. That side is pretty loud did you take the baffles out of the muffler? Most saws will run lean as the engine heats up I think it’s pulling out more exhaust when it gets hot like that. Can be hard to tune. Then again 50 year old crank seals are prolly getting tired lol
I like the EZ with the full wrap bar. It is real handy, but I need to do some repairs to get it reliable. The BS is a weird looking, but fun little bike.
Ordered a new kit saw, yesterday, the Stihl MS-250, a 45 cc 18 inch saw. I stayed with my 2022 theme of smaller and lighter. I am tired of lugging chunks of iron around. I have more than enough of them. It will be the Big Brother of my MS-170, 171 and 180 that I bought earlier this year. It would easily whack up that pine you were cutting with your Homelite.
I only have 3 saws that are operational in the 40cc range. This is an ideal size for small firewood cutting. I won't buy any new saws, as I don't like them. Since all 3 saws I have in this category were free, and with new chains, carb kits, fuel filters etc., I have only about $30 invested in each one. Since I am thrifty, this is the best avenue for me.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 that’s the way they used to be 60-80cc, but not any more. You will be surprised what you can cut with a 30cc saw with a 16 inch bar. I cut up a 24 inch pine that fell in my back yard this summer and I used nothing but my ms 170, 171 and 180. The biggest of these is 32 cc and the smallest 30.5cc and they are fitted with - 3/8 picco chains, not exactly big chain. Sure, my 372, 360 or 440 would have cut the pine up faster but they easily double the weight of these saws. I have never seen anything that you have cut that they would not handle. They have small bars and chains but they also cut small kerfs. Sure, I have to step frame side of the log to the other to make the cut on a 24 inch log. Had it been solid oak it hickory,I would have used a bigger trio of saws but it was dead pine and that does not take a big saw. You just do not need a 60 cc saw to cut most wood. For years, I had a 16 inch bar saw and a 20 inch bow saw and I went through 24 inch live oak, like it was butter. The rounds were so heavy I could barely lift them. Sometimes I had to roll them up a board into my pickup. I would not turn a little 30 cc saw loose on those rounds but 12 inch stuff is well within their capabilities and 12 inch oak is good firewood. We have a habit these days to take more saw than we actually need. I do it, you do it, everybody does it. They may need a28 inch bar for one cut and end up using it for everything. That’s dumb.
I started out with a 60cc McCulloch Pro Mac 610 with a 20" bar. I used for everything in the beginning, since it was the only saw I owned. When I started collecting saws, I found that a longer bar made firewood cutting a lot easier. Most of my early saws were 54cc and larger, so I never gave it a second thought about using smaller saws. When I got my first Mini Mac, things changed, as it was so much easier to move such a small and powerful saw in between branches and limbs, yet had enough power to easily do the job. Later I had some small Homelites, Poulan 25's etc., but they didn't have as much power as the Mac, and also weighed more. As my saw collection grew, it was just for fun, and still is today. I could get by with a small and medium size modern saw, but I wouldn't have a channel dealing with vintage stuff, and would be bored silly just having two boring and uninteresting saws. Variety is the spice of life.@@johnclarke6647
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I only have one saw in the 40cc range - my 37 year old Poulan S25DA. It is 38, I think. It is a powerful little saw and one handed, to boot. It will limb up most trees. I also have my 026 Pro but I class it in the 50 cc class, even though it is 49.7. I also have a ms 251 but I do not care for it - never have. When I finish building the FARMERTEC MS 250 I will have a true 40 cc saw, at 45 cc. Most of my saws jump from 30 cc to 50 cc and then to 70 cc, with a couple of 60’s thrown in. If you ever get. Chance to pick up a ms 360 or 036, do it. It cuts like a 70 cc saw and is well balanced with a 20 inch bar. To me balance and overall weight are two of the most important criteria for a saw after the big three - start, stay lit and relights.
I have a bag of those crummy Chinese filters you described and have not had a problem with any of them. I have a bag of the big ones and little ones. If they will fit the fuel line, they work. I try to put the little ones on small saws and big ones on my big saws. It is better than spending $7 for an oem fuel filter.. I use boiled linseed oil on a lot of things that need a waterproof finish. I put it on all my axe handles and other tools that have wood handles. I heat up the handle with my heat gun and the linseed oil will soak right in. You could help the drying by adding some Japan Dryer to the linseed oil, if you can find it, anymore. I still have a can out in the shop. Just soak it in and wipe off the excess. My old rule was a coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month and then a coat a month for a year until you get the finish you want. Polish with a good rag between coats, after they dry.
I have two of these filters like I originally put in the saw, and the second one did the same thing as the first one, so I threw them out. I haven't ever had that problem before.
I would love to have a Super EZ W (western full wrap) those little saws are a beautiful hot rod. They are a real potent little pill for their age and size. Makes me smile just hearing that sharp little 🎵🎶 note. I'm guessing if you set one up with a 20" bar and ran .325 pitch and full chisel they would be very competitive with some modern saws in a similar CC class. I heard of one converted to a no RPM limit electronic ignition from points and condenser and set up with a 14" bar. They called it a "wild child". Probably was.
The Super EZ Auto's are real performers for their size. I just finished a new video using mine to cut up a blow down tree. I will be posting this video fairly soon, so keep watching !
I really like the Super EZ with the full wrap bar. It will need some work over the winter to get up to snuff for next spring. That sneaky little branch caught me by surprise !
You should put the carb back to factory settings. Turn the screws all the way in and 1-1/4 turn for H, 1 turn L out well it should be that’s what most homelite were set to and it’s what I do to all of mine
As the saw got hotter as I used it, the high speed needle had to be adjusted out, indicating I have an air leak, which is most likely bad crank seals. When the saw is hot it won't run at the normal jet setting. This is a common problem on old saws.
The Super EZ with the full wrap handle is real handy. My little motorcycle isn't a Brigg's, it is actually a Japanese motorcycle. I might have a contest to see who can figure out what the BS name actually is.
I am in the process of fixing up a Homelite XL12, but my question is about the Mcculloch 655 chainsaw. What is the difference between them and the 650?
Don’t you cut stumps off? I cut them off as soon as I get a tree cut up. I do not like tripping hazards around to fall over or on. The Homelite sounds pretty good.
I do eventually cut the stumps off, but usually they are the last thing I cut. I will soon be out cutting the brush up in that area, and the stumps make nice platforms to put tools, gas cans and other stuff on. The little Homelite is real handy, the full wrap bar is especially nice. The more I used it when cutting up the tree, it kept leaning out, so a set of crank seals is needed.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I know, I build a lot of furniture when cutting, usually nice sized rounds - one to put my butt on and several for the saw, gas can, bar oil jug, and maybe one to file a saw or adjust its chain tension. The most important one is the first one. The rest of my stuff can end up on the ground, as far as I am concerned.
I am not having much luck in figuring out your saw model and year manufactured. All my info is for the 7 and 8 digit serial numbers, and yours is a 9 digit. I have parts manuals for both the XL 12 and the Super XL, but they don't designate the 0445B model number, they just use the name of the saw as a reference. Look at the carb, as many are date stamped, and sometimes inside the starter cover they have a production date. My best guess is a 1974 model. My 1964 Super XL had the wrong starter cover on it, so I measured the bore to figure out if I had a standard XL 12 or not. The muffler, engine case and spark plug were all unique to the first year of production, so that is how I figured out what it was. My later XL 12 and Super XL had all the decals on them and were 8 digit saws, so I found that they were both 1972 models, even though one was red, and the other blue and white. It was a split year for the models.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 according to other sources, the 0 in the second digit means it was made in 1970, 1980, or 1990. It is red with a black metal air filter cover. I think it has been repainted at some point, but it is a regular XL12, because the oil filler is on the right rear. I will look over the carb to see if there is a number on it..
Sure love the cackle of these old saws over the balnd sound of modern saws. I always wanted of thes old gals for swamppin duty.
The Super EZ is a good choice.
Love my Super EZ. It punches above it's weight class.
I like the performance of the Super EZ, but mine needs some attention to get up to snuff. I really like the full wrap bar.
What really holds up as a wood finish is paraffin wax, the same stuff they use for canning. Its what they put on maple butcher's blocks.
I watched a guy who used to resurface these blocks, win a case of beer.The guy betting him didn't think he could drive the wax down 2" into
the block. He drilled an 1/8" hole 2" from the top and hot wax ran right out of it.
He would put a couple sticks of the wax, and a little turpentine into an old coffee pot until it was liquid.
Then he would pour the hot wax on the block and using an old electric iron he would "iron" the wax in.
I think the reason why this works so well, is that cutting blocks are end grain, just like your samples are, wood is just a bunch of straws waiting to be filled.
Love seeing those old saws in action.
Looking forward to the next video.
Using wax to penetrate wood is something I knew nothing about. Very interesting. On wood handles, the linseed oil is used to soak into the wood by capillary action into the fibers, to keep them supple and flexible, so that the shock imparted by dead blow force doesn't break them. Thanks for the info, always like to learn something new, and the nice comment.
I think some of the better wood deck finishes now incorporate some paraffin wax in them. If you can get it thinned out enough it should work on face grain also. Just not as good.@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156
Got my youngest daughters winter garden tilled this past weekend. Hardest soil I have ever tilled up - red clay. Had to cut all kinds of tree roots from it with an axe. My free little Troy Built did a good job. She had been turning it with a shovel for a couple of years. Got it planted, yesterday after liming and ferterlizer got it. Should be up in a couple of weeks.
Wow that tree was mad at you and got you back taking hard hat clear off ya!!! Haha that was good!!
Glad it didn’t hurt you though.
I have a red/Blk XL-1 which I believe is the Canadian version of the EZ. I was using it last fall and I didn’t notice the rubber grommet was missing where the mixture screw holes are so I think it sucked in some sawdust and scored up the piston.
That side is pretty loud did you take the baffles out of the muffler?
Most saws will run lean as the engine heats up I think it’s pulling out more exhaust when it gets hot like that.
Can be hard to tune.
Then again 50 year old crank seals are prolly getting tired lol
I have always loved my super EZ. I cut lots of wood with it. That's a cool little bike!
I like the EZ with the full wrap bar. It is real handy, but I need to do some repairs to get it reliable. The BS is a weird looking, but fun little bike.
Looks like that B.S. bike is in nice shape.👍
It is!
I am jealous of that Homelite hard hat! Got to get one if possible! 😮
It was a nice find !
Ordered a new kit saw, yesterday, the Stihl MS-250, a 45 cc 18 inch saw. I stayed with my 2022 theme of smaller and lighter. I am tired of lugging chunks of iron around. I have more than enough of them. It will be the Big Brother of my MS-170, 171 and 180 that I bought earlier this year. It would easily whack up that pine you were cutting with your Homelite.
I only have 3 saws that are operational in the 40cc range. This is an ideal size for small firewood cutting. I won't buy any new saws, as I don't like them. Since all 3 saws I have in this category were free, and with new chains, carb kits, fuel filters etc., I have only about $30 invested in each one. Since I am thrifty, this is the best avenue for me.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 that’s the way they used to be 60-80cc, but not any more. You will be surprised what you can cut with a 30cc saw with a 16 inch bar. I cut up a 24 inch pine that fell in my back yard this summer and I used nothing but my ms 170, 171 and 180. The biggest of these is 32 cc and the smallest 30.5cc and they are fitted with - 3/8 picco chains, not exactly big chain. Sure, my 372, 360 or 440 would have cut the pine up faster but they easily double the weight of these saws. I have never seen anything that you have cut that they would not handle. They have small bars and chains but they also cut small kerfs. Sure, I have to step frame side of the log to the other to make the cut on a 24 inch log. Had it been solid oak it hickory,I would have used a bigger trio of saws but it was dead pine and that does not take a big saw. You just do not need a 60 cc saw to cut most wood. For years, I had a 16 inch bar saw and a 20 inch bow saw and I went through 24 inch live oak, like it was butter. The rounds were so heavy I could barely lift them. Sometimes I had to roll them up a board into my pickup. I would not turn a little 30 cc saw loose on those rounds but 12 inch stuff is well within their capabilities and 12 inch oak is good firewood. We have a habit these days to take more saw than we actually need. I do it, you do it, everybody does it. They may need a28 inch bar for one cut and end up using it for everything. That’s dumb.
I started out with a 60cc McCulloch Pro Mac 610 with a 20" bar. I used for everything in the beginning, since it was the only saw I owned. When I started collecting saws, I found that a longer bar made firewood cutting a lot easier. Most of my early saws were 54cc and larger, so I never gave it a second thought about using smaller saws. When I got my first Mini Mac, things changed, as it was so much easier to move such a small and powerful saw in between branches and limbs, yet had enough power to easily do the job. Later I had some small Homelites, Poulan 25's etc., but they didn't have as much power as the Mac, and also weighed more. As my saw collection grew, it was just for fun, and still is today. I could get by with a small and medium size modern saw, but I wouldn't have a channel dealing with vintage stuff, and would be bored silly just having two boring and uninteresting saws. Variety is the spice of life.@@johnclarke6647
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I only have one saw in the 40cc range - my 37 year old Poulan S25DA. It is 38, I think. It is a powerful little saw and one handed, to boot. It will limb up most trees. I also have my 026 Pro but I class it in the 50 cc class, even though it is 49.7. I also have a ms 251 but I do not care for it - never have. When I finish building the FARMERTEC MS 250 I will have a true 40 cc saw, at 45 cc. Most of my saws jump from 30 cc to 50 cc and then to 70 cc, with a couple of 60’s thrown in. If you ever get. Chance to pick up a ms 360 or 036, do it. It cuts like a 70 cc saw and is well balanced with a 20 inch bar. To me balance and overall weight are two of the most important criteria for a saw after the big three - start, stay lit and relights.
I like the EZ automatic, good power and compact. I have 3 of them
The EZ's have the a good combination of power in a nice compact size.
Great show!!
Thanks Daryl.
I have a version of this saw . I do not have the oil pick up tube parts . Nice saw for small jobs .
I will be using the EZ next spring a fair amount after I get the repairs needed done over the winter.
I have a bag of those crummy Chinese filters you described and have not had a problem with any of them. I have a bag of the big ones and little ones. If they will fit the fuel line, they work. I try to put the little ones on small saws and big ones on my big saws. It is better than spending $7 for an oem fuel filter.. I use boiled linseed oil on a lot of things that need a waterproof finish. I put it on all my axe handles and other tools that have wood handles. I heat up the handle with my heat gun and the linseed oil will soak right in. You could help the drying by adding some Japan Dryer to the linseed oil, if you can find it, anymore. I still have a can out in the shop. Just soak it in and wipe off the excess. My old rule was a coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month and then a coat a month for a year until you get the finish you want. Polish with a good rag between coats, after they dry.
I have two of these filters like I originally put in the saw, and the second one did the same thing as the first one, so I threw them out. I haven't ever had that problem before.
I would love to have a Super EZ W (western full wrap) those little saws are a beautiful hot rod. They are a real potent little pill for their age and size. Makes me smile just hearing that sharp little 🎵🎶 note. I'm guessing if you set one up with a 20" bar and ran .325 pitch and full chisel they would be very competitive with some modern saws in a similar CC class. I heard of one converted to a no RPM limit electronic ignition from points and condenser and set up with a 14" bar. They called it a "wild child". Probably was.
The Super EZ Auto's are real performers for their size. I just finished a new video using mine to cut up a blow down tree. I will be posting this video fairly soon, so keep watching !
Awesome buddy good work. Love the ez but the helmet over the top sir.
I really like the Super EZ with the full wrap bar. It will need some work over the winter to get up to snuff for next spring. That sneaky little branch caught me by surprise !
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 i like the ez to sir
You should put the carb back to factory settings. Turn the screws all the way in and 1-1/4 turn for H, 1 turn L out well it should be that’s what most homelite were set to and it’s what I do to all of mine
As the saw got hotter as I used it, the high speed needle had to be adjusted out, indicating I have an air leak, which is most likely bad crank seals. When the saw is hot it won't run at the normal jet setting. This is a common problem on old saws.
I Like That Lil Homelite 😀😊❤️What’s Your Top Speed On The Briggs Moped Mr Obsolete 😀
The Super EZ with the full wrap handle is real handy. My little motorcycle isn't a Brigg's, it is actually a Japanese motorcycle. I might have a contest to see who can figure out what the BS name actually is.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 That’s a Great Idea 😀
I am in the process of fixing up a Homelite XL12, but my question is about the Mcculloch 655 chainsaw. What is the difference between them and the 650?
The graphics.
The 650 is 65 cc’s and the XL12 is 58. That about it.
I have gotten the Homelite. It is a Super XL 12, I believe.
If you have a super XL it is a 58cc saw, if not it is 54cc. blue ones had points ignition, red ones electronic ignition.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 it’s a red one. I will send you the SN, so you can tell me when it was made.
Good morning.
Thank s on the oil vedio
You bet !
Don’t you cut stumps off? I cut them off as soon as I get a tree cut up. I do not like tripping hazards around to fall over or on. The Homelite sounds pretty good.
I do eventually cut the stumps off, but usually they are the last thing I cut. I will soon be out cutting the brush up in that area, and the stumps make nice platforms to put tools, gas cans and other stuff on. The little Homelite is real handy, the full wrap bar is especially nice. The more I used it when cutting up the tree, it kept leaning out, so a set of crank seals is needed.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I know, I build a lot of furniture when cutting, usually nice sized rounds - one to put my butt on and several for the saw, gas can, bar oil jug, and maybe one to file a saw or adjust its chain tension. The most important one is the first one. The rest of my stuff can end up on the ground, as far as I am concerned.
An excellent idea.@@johnclarke6647
Great video, new subscriber here.
Thanks and welcome
Mesin bagus
Hello
Saw needs adjustment on carb,running to lean
The air leak became so bad that adjusting the carb had no effect, and the saw quit running. Time for some repairs.
Got the infOrmation on my Homelite - MODEL,iTHINK,0445B, S:403380083. When was it made and what exact model is it? Thanks. It is red
I am not having much luck in figuring out your saw model and year manufactured. All my info is for the 7 and 8 digit serial numbers, and yours is a 9 digit. I have parts manuals for both the XL 12 and the Super XL, but they don't designate the 0445B model number, they just use the name of the saw as a reference. Look at the carb, as many are date stamped, and sometimes inside the starter cover they have a production date. My best guess is a 1974 model. My 1964 Super XL had the wrong starter cover on it, so I measured the bore to figure out if I had a standard XL 12 or not. The muffler, engine case and spark plug were all unique to the first year of production, so that is how I figured out what it was. My later XL 12 and Super XL had all the decals on them and were 8 digit saws, so I found that they were both 1972 models, even though one was red, and the other blue and white. It was a split year for the models.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 according to other sources, the 0 in the second digit means it was made in 1970, 1980, or 1990. It is red with a black metal air filter cover. I think it has been repainted at some point, but it is a regular XL12, because the oil filler is on the right rear. I will look over the carb to see if there is a number on it..
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 the serial number plate says Homelite/Textron, Charlotte, NC also on it. That may be a clue, too.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 it is a model or product number 10445B.
You didn't send the full model number on your first message, you left off the1. Your saw is a standard XL 12.@@johnclarke6647