Bee Bob, this guy Canadian beekeeper doesn't have the slightest clue how to keep bees. He has no idea what a bee is, what a bee colony is, what is good for the bees. He thinks he knows something because he has been taught by another idiot beekeeper, who was the same as his teacher. The stupidity is passed by one to another. I am watching his videos sometimes and think that is why the bees are in trouble, because of guys like this, and there are plenty of them. Poor bees, God save them!
@@iosta5694 I think you need to take a beekeeping course at your local bee club. For a large beekeeper who keeps bees where he does, he knows his stuff. This is why he is so successful for where he is located. Some of his management techniques may not work where I am because I'm a completely different area. But, as for splitting and using singles (instead of doubles) I completely agree. I haven't let this out so before you even consider attacking me these are my credentials. Assistant professor at our local agricultural college in the beekeeping courses. Presenter in multiple county clubs in my area. Managed colonies for over twenty years. I've got some experience in beekeeping. I am very open to differing opinions of beekeeping and wouldn't say one way is wrong (as you say). As for splitting a colony I believe his method is solid. I watch him daily and enjoy his ideas and techniques. I'll be running a couple of singles next spring and summer to see how it works out for me where I live. Should be fun to experiment.
The explanation about only moving capped brood for the split makes perfect sense. Thank you for adding the details and the whys to a new beekeeper! Thank you for the time you give to teach us.
Never mind...i should have watch the video until the end....thank you for sharing the knowledge you've worked so hard for....and by the way your one of the hardest working person ive seen in a long time..
Ive never thought of young brood being canabalized in a queenless hive. Back in my commercial queen rearing days that open larva was gold when stocking mating nucs, it would hold bees better than sealed brood.
For a four frame I always put at least two capped brood and two frames of multiple stage.four frames of food to the outside "two on either side" and put two foundation "one to either side of brood for a ten frame box. Wait two or three days place a queen hope they accept. If they do accept at that point monitor your hive to make sure they've got plenty of brood laying space and they're not plugging out.If you notice them getting a little light because of a poor honey flow give them the alternative feed if they've got plenty feed let them build.
Great content as always. Always lean something. Not great year for me in the rain in California.I see that you have some plastic frames mixed with wood. I prefer to use wood with plastic cell foundation BUT they are costing me 3.65 ,I can get double waxed plastic for around 1.25. With the difference in price,what would you buy? Thanks again for the videos. Doing splits this weekend myself.
Great videos Ian.Keep them coming! I have a request.Could you mention some phenological indicators at the beginning when you mention the date so that others can correlate your timing with our own area. For instance,in Southern New England, we are about mid spring flow.Apples are done,some black and choke cherries still in bloom but mostly finished along with russian olive,black locust is just coming in to full bloom along with horse chestnut. It is hard to tell what is going on in the background of your videos. It looks like the trees are starting to green up,possibly end of maple bloom? One of last weeks videos had a nice flush of dandylions, showing ,in our area,it is time to get the supers out,maybe start to think about grafting if there's enough sealed drone ,equalizing and keep eyes open for swarm cells .
Just curious as to why you couldn't leave the open brood in the bottom box, and put the sealed on top to take for early split. Or would this throw off your timing for honey crop? Thanks for sharing. Learning a lot from you.
Would love being able to split. Been cursed with too much rain. Can't get in the yard to really set up cell builder. And showing 9 of the next 10 days with more rain in the forecast.
I'm curious about the playing cards pinned to the front of your grafting hives. What's the idea behind them? Are the identifying the line the queen came from?
He keeps track of which queen is bred from what. That makes picking one to breed from easy. My method is "the first ones to make swarm cells get split up" into queen castles. 6 splits from one colony is common. Small scale queen rearing is a blast. The philosophy I follow is: "Learn to make more bee colonies and the honey sort of just happens". Every beekeeper should follow the same philosophy. Our bees would benefit. Package bee industry and buying queens...No good.
@@mikeries8549 If the playing card represents the starting point and a number of daughters are raised from that queen (let's say 4 of diamonds), how do you know what the relationship is between them and the progeny of another queen (e.g. 4 of spades)?
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog I see. So, there may be a drift in your population over the years towards a particular line and you wouldn't be able to track that?
It seems everyone on hear understand how you manage your splits but me....I'm not understanding why you shake the top box ( the split ) back into the bottom box. It seems to me that the top box should be taken away and a queen Introduced..please help..
Most of the videos I see on making splits focus on the mechanics more than the thoughT process. I really appreciate the depth and thoughtfulness of your videos. I can handle the mechanics fine, it is the principles of husbandry that I want to learn. Thank you, Ian. PS: why is it you never hear a beek say “Man, that is an UGLY queen!” I guess most queens are beautiful. What do the playing cards in your grafting fears signify? Stu
Canadian beekeeper....stop torturing and bullying the poor bees....just stop it...! Learn first what a bee is, what a bee colony is, what is good for them...ok?
Best example of a split I've seen. Also, thanks for showing why a split shouldn't be taken with young brood in the top box. Thank you very much.
Bee Bob, this guy Canadian beekeeper doesn't have the slightest clue how to keep bees. He has no idea what a bee is, what a bee colony is, what is good for the bees.
He thinks he knows something because he has been taught by another idiot beekeeper, who was the same as his teacher. The stupidity is passed by one to another.
I am watching his videos sometimes and think that is why the bees are in trouble, because of guys like this, and there are plenty of them. Poor bees, God save them!
@@iosta5694 I think you need to take a beekeeping course at your local bee club.
For a large beekeeper who keeps bees where he does, he knows his stuff. This is why he is so successful for where he is located. Some of his management techniques may not work where I am because I'm a completely different area. But, as for splitting and using singles (instead of doubles) I completely agree. I haven't let this out so before you even consider attacking me these are my credentials. Assistant professor at our local agricultural college in the beekeeping courses. Presenter in multiple county clubs in my area. Managed colonies for over twenty years.
I've got some experience in beekeeping. I am very open to differing opinions of beekeeping and wouldn't say one way is wrong (as you say).
As for splitting a colony I believe his method is solid. I watch him daily and enjoy his ideas and techniques. I'll be running a couple of singles next spring and summer to see how it works out for me where I live. Should be fun to experiment.
The explanation about only moving capped brood for the split makes perfect sense. Thank you for adding the details and the whys to a new beekeeper! Thank you for the time you give to teach us.
Never mind...i should have watch the video until the end....thank you for sharing the knowledge you've worked so hard for....and by the way your one of the hardest working person ive seen in a long time..
Ive never thought of young brood being canabalized in a queenless hive. Back in my commercial queen rearing days that open larva was gold when stocking mating nucs, it would hold bees better than sealed brood.
For a four frame I always put at least two capped brood and two frames of multiple stage.four frames of food to the outside "two on either side" and put two foundation "one to either side of brood for a ten frame box. Wait two or three days place a queen hope they accept. If they do accept at that point monitor your hive to make sure they've got plenty of brood laying space and they're not plugging out.If you notice them getting a little light because of a poor honey flow give them the alternative feed if they've got plenty feed let them build.
Cool. My hives just started bringing in the first nectar of the season, cranberry I think , blueberries open soon too.
Great content as always. Always lean something. Not great year for me in the rain in California.I see that you have some plastic frames mixed with wood. I prefer to use wood with plastic cell foundation BUT they are costing me 3.65 ,I can get double waxed plastic for around 1.25. With the difference in price,what would you buy? Thanks again for the videos. Doing splits this weekend myself.
Great videos Ian.Keep them coming!
I have a request.Could you mention some phenological indicators at the beginning when you mention the date so that others can correlate your timing with our own area.
For instance,in Southern New England, we are about mid spring flow.Apples are done,some black and choke cherries still in bloom but mostly finished along with russian olive,black locust is just coming in to full bloom along with horse chestnut.
It is hard to tell what is going on in the background of your videos. It looks like the trees are starting to green up,possibly end of maple bloom? One of last weeks videos had a nice flush of dandylions, showing ,in our area,it is time to get the supers out,maybe start to think about grafting if there's enough sealed drone ,equalizing and keep eyes open for swarm cells .
Great information on the effect of being to quickly splitting! Thanks so very much! :)
Very nice work ,Beekeping biutiful job..
Just curious as to why you couldn't leave the open brood in the bottom box, and put the sealed on top to take for early split. Or would this throw off your timing for honey crop? Thanks for sharing. Learning a lot from you.
Would love being able to split. Been cursed with too much rain. Can't get in the yard to really set up cell builder. And showing 9 of the next 10 days with more rain in the forecast.
Ian would you show off the Shaker Box construction please? Love your Videos great content!!!!!!!!! Thanks
Look true his older videos its explained
Thanks for visual explanation
perfect make queen machine.
what type of bees do mostley have
What size of Rubbermaid container do you use for your funnel?
I'm curious about the playing cards pinned to the front of your grafting hives. What's the idea behind them? Are the identifying the line the queen came from?
He keeps track of which queen is bred from what. That makes picking one to breed from easy.
My method is "the first ones to make swarm cells get split up" into queen castles. 6 splits from one colony is common.
Small scale queen rearing is a blast. The philosophy I follow is:
"Learn to make more bee colonies and the honey sort of just happens". Every beekeeper should follow the same philosophy. Our bees would benefit. Package bee industry and buying queens...No good.
@@mikeries8549 If the playing card represents the starting point and a number of daughters are raised from that queen (let's say 4 of diamonds), how do you know what the relationship is between them and the progeny of another queen (e.g. 4 of spades)?
It’s impossible to track past a couple generations but at least, by tracking the current year, we can find trends if there is a trend to find
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog I see. So, there may be a drift in your population over the years towards a particular line and you wouldn't be able to track that?
What are the playing cards for? Hive identification?
Hello, I'm talking about Chile. I would like to know where I could get those domes for the queens of blue color?
Why do I not have any Beas on my apple and rose treat when thay are in full Blum May 28 full sunny day about 75 deg grand forks nd
It seems everyone on hear understand how you manage your splits but me....I'm not understanding why you shake the top box ( the split ) back into the bottom box. It seems to me that the top box should be taken away and a queen Introduced..please help..
Where do you get foam for incubator
Thank you Sir.
Ian, why Extraction honey use hot room ? why not cool room ? i see other beekeeper not use
Honey flows easier when warm😀
@SpyingDutchman gat it
where I can find this sponge from incubator? Thank you in advance
julnifares
You wife’s couch cushions lol
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog what are you using to cut the holes in it so perfect, may I ask.
@@OklahomaBeekeeper Here is his video describing his method.
ua-cam.com/video/mJHiz0A1mBI/v-deo.html
What happened to the Nosema-infected hive?
beth98362
Dead
Most of the videos I see on making splits focus on the mechanics more than the thoughT process. I really appreciate the depth and thoughtfulness of your videos. I can handle the mechanics fine, it is the principles of husbandry that I want to learn. Thank you, Ian. PS: why is it you never hear a beek say “Man, that is an UGLY queen!” I guess most queens are beautiful. What do the playing cards in your grafting fears signify? Stu
Canadian beekeeper....stop torturing and bullying the poor bees....just stop it...!
Learn first what a bee is, what a bee colony is, what is good for them...ok?
Iordan Stanev
Ha ha ha
On your system of queen rearing what do the playing cards represent?