Great idea. Last spring I converted a weed wacker to a brush cutter- but of course my brush regrows quickly. I may buy two of these- and duct tape one of these to a four foot stick. I have a back that aches if I bend over too much. After I cut the brush, I’ll apply the herbicide without having to bend over.
Hi Andrew. Great plan! Just make sure that you treat the cut stumps right away -- within 20 minutes of cutting. After 20 minutes the efficacy goes way down.
Thank for this video! It's direct, informative, and encouraging to us, as we embark on trying to fully eradicate Ailanthus from our small property. We've been trying mechanical methods for a decade but to no avail, and we realized recently that we're going to have to use an herbicide if we want to get rid of them before spotted lantern fly likely arrives in our area in a few years. I'll definitely be ordering one of those buckthorrn blaster tools and adding the dye. Thanks again!
Hey buddy, hope you've been well! Your vid here just popped up as I was looking into a technique I hadn't heard of before, the basal cut stump treatment -- it's like a cut stump but you also do a basal bark technique to the remaining stump, assuming you didn't low-stump it. Anyway, keep crushing, great video!! We use the Buckthorn Blaster a lot for Tamarix spp. and some others out here in the west and it has saved us so much $$ on herb as well as being way safer than the ol' paintbrush. Love it!
There are some plants that are nearly impossible to clear without herbicide. Tree of Heaven would be at the top of that list for me. I like the blaster. Thank you for the info.
That’s almost all the woody invasives that I deal with - that’s the importance of this tool: if people don’t use herbicide they don’t control the invasives
I think I need to get a Buckthorn Blaster!! I have a wicked Buckthorn issue in Fletcher. I have been trimming with a Stihl trimmer and chainsaw and attacking the roots as much as I can. I pull up the little ones. It's a lot for all my property! I'm trying to promote more biodiversity and more natives... Less nasty Buckthorn! I may have to give this a try. Sounds like the weapon I need in the fight against Buckthorn.
I think it's a really important tool! With a lot of buckthorn, it's really hard to get ahead of it just cutting it -- I call that "just making it mad." Cutting and treating makes a HUGE difference.
@@HowToLoveAForest Too true, it just bunches and spreads! I have some very large and established buckthorn I've taken to pulling out with the tractor. But this seems like much less effort and at a much greater effectiveness! I'm going to try it out! :) Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for sharing all this information. I'll be getting some of these applicators this spring. This is genius. I've been a big fan of cut stump method for several years now. I like the method due to the lack of collateral damage that can occur with foliar applications. I've always suffered using a spray bottle of some sort and inevitably they leak or fail to spray properly, plus, a good bit of the spray simply misses the stump. So looking forward to this method improvement.
Glad to hear it! I really believe in it too. Figuring out how to use herbicide in a super concentrated and targeted way is so critical to dealing with invasives across the landscape. So important for so many reasons.
@@HowToLoveAForest One question I had, does the little foam tip hold up reasonably well? I could imagine that getting shredded from splinters and rough edges of dabbing it on cut stumps. I did see online that replacement tips are available. I was just curious if you feel they hold up adequately. Also, now that I think about it... Have you ever used this applicator on plants that have a hollow stem? i.e. Japanese knotweed, bamboo or something along those lines? When I do JKW, I tend to make sure I get a little squirt down in the hollow cane. I wonder if this applicator would work on such stems? Any thoughts? Thanks!
@@ericzipf1332 the foam tips hold up well but you can also buy several replacement tips for like $2. I replace mine maybe once a year. The Blasters also come with a tool to remove the tips. What you really want to do with knotweed is to get herbicide into the cane - we call it a snip and drip. I’ve tried all types of stuff with knotweed and the only way to kill it is to treat each cane individually with either a snip and drip or a stem injection (which you need a fancy tool for). I have used the Blaster on a small patch of knotweed, trying to get some herbicide into the hollow cane, but it doesn’t feel super efficient or precise - some kind of a dropper is probably a better tool. That way you can also do a better job regulating how much herbicide you’re using.
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for the feedback on the tips. That sounds reasonable if they hold up for a season, sounds about right. Yeah, JKW's a real bugger. We had about an acre scattered about on my GF's farm. Initially I did a foliar app with Imazapyr. That really does a number on it. Gets rid of about 98%, then I moved onto policing of individuals and do your method of snip and drip. Sometimes the stuff is so small the plant hasn't even developed a hollow cane and I just do the cut and squirt the end. I'm actually at the point now, where if I see a little piece, I simply dig the little bastards out and burn the remnants. Thankfully, I've almost defeated this mess after 5 years! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for your work that you do.
the sides of roads would look so much better if all these invasive vines were removed you could see the trees instead of the vines covering the trees that are slowly killing the trees
I wish you made another video on Glyphosate usage. There's SO much fear of this stuff in the Gardening Community that invasives are invading woodlands because no one can physically deal. Those that are OK with using it, get pissy Roundup (often with no Glyphosate now) and using such a low dose it's not effective & they give up. People NEED to understand how it works and the soil issue, etc. (With a note on waterways & surfactants).... I have Goutweed/Bishops and MF this thing is horrific. Still searching for an effective dose. Tempted to go with 20% at this point.
Great idea! Here in Canada our Roundup sold in big box stores is just a high percentage vinegar and probably more dangerous than Roundup with Glyphosate. Since I don't drive and everyone I ask who goes to the US thinks they'll be arrested for buying Roundup for me I had to spend $100 for a single bottle of Roundup with Glyphosate. Using a dauber application method I'm hoping this is the only bottle I'll ever need to get rid of Dog Strangle Vine I've been battling for over 5 years now. Cut dab, cut dab....I've got a good workout coming up.
@@Bons_Eye It's my understanding Canadian Tire and other places will sell real deal Glyphosate. I've read you have to tell them you have Poison Ivy or something crazy....
@@karunald Well now, that's great to hear. Although too late for me, I'll take a walk to my Home Depot and ask. Thank you so very much for sharing that info.
You didn't mention the time of year when herbicides should be applied even though that information may be on the written directions which come with the product. More importantly though, is explaining about seeds. A plant may be dropping seeds when they are hand-pulled or when herbicide is applied. In that case, one will need to visit that site later to deal with plants that have sprouted from the seeds that may have dropped. Also, many seeds do not all germinate the year following when they were pulled or poisoned. They may delay germinating for two or more years. Again, it is important to visit the site in subsequent years to check for that possibility.
Great points! I just added info about what times of year to treat to the description -- late-summer/early fall is the "best" time to treat, but it's also very effective anytime from June 1-March 1 here in VT, so where landowners are doing it themselves I tell them to just get out there and do it whenever they have time (except for in the spring time) so it doesn't put as much pressure on the August-October time frame. I also tell them that there are likely seeds in the seed bank that will sprout, so they need to revisit the areas that they treated regularly. I also tell them that so that when they see a bunch of little buckthorns or whatever the following year, its something expected and so not as frustrating. I say "this is going to happen, and its normal." If I didn't do that, I think lots of folks would throw their hands up and give up when that happened.
Does this work anytime of year, it looks like fall in your video, I have many plants in my yard that I need to treat with some larger trees that have berries.
Thank you for this video and to Northern Woodlands magazine for posting a link to it. Could you recommend the best time to do this to burning bush (which is an invasive in some forest edges here in eastern MA?)
Hi Ariane! The best time is August through October, but it works well anytime from June 1 through March 1. When people have a lot of invasives, I advise them to not worry about the “best” time but to do it whenever they have time.
Another question regarding cut-stump application of herbicide -- I have seen some recommendations which say that glyphosate can be used year-round, as long as it is applied right after cutting, but others say that in the winter months you have to use an oil-based herbicide such as triclopyr ester.
I have had good success with glyphosate using the cut-stump method in the winter in Vermont, and we have research backing up the efficacy of this approach. That said - I heard recently from folks elsewhere in the country (southern states, Midwest) who have better luck using triclopyr in the winter, and one person who finds “frilling” and applying triclopyr to be more effective than cut-stump. I find that using glyphosate as I describe is 95+% effective where I work, but if it doesn’t work for you where you are that would be an approach to try. If you’re doing a big project in the winter and you’re concerned about it, cut the buckthorn off high (like 3’) - that way you could cut lower and re-treat later if it isn’t as effective as you hoped.
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for your reply. It's good to know that you have both research and your own experience regarding using glyphosate on cut stumps in the winter. Where I live in southwestern Pennsylvania the primary offenders are Asian honeysuckle shrubs, multiflora rose, privet, and oriental bittersweet, along with occasional buckthorn and other invasives. Since you've had good success with glyphosate during the winter I'll continue to use that when I'm working on my own, and use oil-based triclopyr when I'm working with people who feel strongly that that's the only thing that will work in the late fall and winter. I'll check back next year to make sure the stumps I've been treating with glyphosate aren't showing any regrowth. By the way, after watching your video I bought a "buckthorn blaster." It's a lot less messy than using a jar and a paintbrush. Keep up the good work with your UA-cam videos! I'm sure that people in states other than Vermont (like me in Pennsylvania) have found them to be helpful.
" This was how I came to stare into that tank one summer day and see dead tadpoles littered across the bottom. The day after applying the pesticides we found very high tadpole mortality in the tanks treated with Roundup. Based on the Australian work, we expected some death, but nothing so widespread. In the end, the study produced a number of very interesting insights about the direct and indirect effects of pesticides on aquatic communities; however, the effect of Roundup on tadpoles was the most striking. Compared to the controls, mesocosms receiving Roundup experienced a 70% decline in amphibian species richness and an 86% decline in tadpole biomass (Fig. 9.3). For example, there was 100% mortality in both leopard frogs (R. pipiens) and gray tree frogs (Hyla versicolor) and 98% mortality in wood frogs (R. sylvatica; Relyea 2005a). "
@@HowToLoveAForest Chapter 9 Amphibians Are Not Ready for Roundup® Rick A. Relyea Amphibians Are Not Ready for Roundup® May 2011 DOI:10.1007/978-0-387-89432-4_9 In book: Wildlife Ecotoxicology-Forensic Approaches (pp.267-300)Publisher: SpringerEditors: J. Elliott, C. Bishop, and C. Morrisey Rick A. Relyea Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute New effects of Roundup on amphibians: Predators reduce herbicide mortality; Herbicides induce antipredator morphology March 2012 Ecological Applications 22(2):634-47 DOI:10.2307/41416788 SourcePubMed Rick A. Relyea Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute
I found the study that this is from. As I expected, the study shows that the amphibian mortality is related to the surfactants (additives) in RoundUp, and not to glyphosate itself. Actually in the same study it found that glyphosate itself had little or no effect on amphibians. Good reminder to make sure you're using the right formulation of glyphosate! I've never used RoundUp itself, and always use a formulation which is safe for wetlands, even if I'm not applying anywhere near wetlands. Usually the best bet is to use a formulation without surfactants. For others that are interested in checking out this study, you can find it here: www.biology.pitt.edu/sites/default/files/facilities-images/Relyea%20286.pdf The other thing to remember with studies about glyphosate is that most or all of them are studying its effects when sprayed over large areas -- such as how it is used in agriculture. This study, for example, is effectively studying what would happen if it was applied directly to surface water. Using this cut-stump treatment, we are talking about something very different -- applying a few ounces per acre, applied to the cut stumps of individual plants.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 The most common glyphosate formulation without surfactant is sold under trade name Rodeo, but there are number of products out there.
Where I am, it's effective anytime BUT spring. So summer, fall and winter are all good times (late-summer and fall is said to be the BEST time, but I haven't seen a huge difference). The only time that I don't do it is March through May in VT
Do you find this method works for wild grapes? Although they might not be considered invasive the wild grapes can severely disform trees to the point that they become useless from a timber harvesting perspective. They also can cover the forest floor to the point where the natural regeneration of desired timber species becomes prohibited. I never found this to be an issue in New England but other more temperate parts of the east coast this can be a serous concern. The underground expansive intertwined root system of wild grapes make eradicating them difficult, especially in breaks in the canopy where light is present.
It depends on where in the world you are, but I don't generally replant anything except in very special cases. Here in Vermont we largely rely on natural regeneration -- that said, there are cases in very severe infestations when some planting may be warranted -- my recommendation in that case would be to plant trees and shrubs in the spring following the treatment, and to continue to control invasives that sprout up around them. In other areas of the US the strategy might be different, however.
"snip and drip" got me irrigation links. "snip and drip" knotweed got me 1 hit for. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (.gov) www.fws.gov › filesPDF Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge This said to do foliar and your suggestion snip and drip Search for snip and drip herbicide got me a nz link for phragmites. Yep snip off the plant and drench the inside of the column I had previously with mixed results cut a slit in the bottom stem and injected the green shoots blue foam. The following year, Sept, after flowering, had tried the green shoots method and drop some on some leaves of a plant as I walked backwards through the stand. That method reminded me of your dauber, as an alternate to dropping on some leaves/foliar. Will see as this season moves along as how well that worked. I suppose the dauber process does not have a foaming agent in the mix? Thanks for the input! I do not know if the cut and drip would work in spring and summer. The green shoots method is the plant has a flow down of food and glyco blue foam to the roots as the season wraps up to store the food for next season.
With glyphosate applied to a cut stump it usually isn’t necessary, but some people recommend it. An easy surfactant for this purpose would just be a small squirt of dish soap. Many herbicide formulations already contain some surfactants so look at the label of the herbicide you’re using and see what it recommends!
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for the quick reply. My concern was that most of the glyphosate products intended for use by the general public already contain surfactant, and i wanted to be sure that the surfactant already in there wouldn't interfere with cut-stump treatment. As far as labels, I have found that most of them just list the herbicide and lump everything else together as "other ingredients" -- not very helpful if you want to know things like whether or not the product contains surfactant. Thanks for the recommendation for the "Buckthorn Blaster." I have one on order. It should be a lot more convenient than the jar and paintbrush approach.
@@sarco64 With most of the herbicide concentrate, the label will be like a little booklet. "The label is the law" but also it generally will contain information about how to use the herbicide and how much to use and a long list of what the herbicide is suitable for -- it will usually say if you can use it for cut-stump application. Either way, adding a little dish soap won't hurt anything, but I have had good success using the cut-stump method with lots of different formulations of glyphosate without adding surfactant.
@@HowToLoveAForest I mention eye protect in that some formulations can be damaging to the eyes. Maybe a greater risk during herbicide mixing and filling. Low risk in the field, but strange things happen.
Great demo.
I use a dauber bottle with Tordol and one for Glyphosate as well. Fighting wisteria, porcelain berry & more.
Thanks for this clear and informative demo. It gives me enough confidence to use the cut stump method to tackle my autumn olives this fall/winter.
Glad it was helpful!
pro tip: don't buy the "Buckthorn Blaster" bottle for a markup of 1000% when you can just buy a regular bingo dabber for $1
Great idea. Last spring I converted a weed wacker to a brush cutter- but of course my brush regrows quickly. I may buy two of these- and duct tape one of these to a four foot stick. I have a back that aches if I bend over too much. After I cut the brush, I’ll apply the herbicide without having to bend over.
Hi Andrew. Great plan! Just make sure that you treat the cut stumps right away -- within 20 minutes of cutting. After 20 minutes the efficacy goes way down.
Thank for this video! It's direct, informative, and encouraging to us, as we embark on trying to fully eradicate Ailanthus from our small property. We've been trying mechanical methods for a decade but to no avail, and we realized recently that we're going to have to use an herbicide if we want to get rid of them before spotted lantern fly likely arrives in our area in a few years. I'll definitely be ordering one of those buckthorrn blaster tools and adding the dye. Thanks again!
Excellent explanation. Great advice.
I just bought an empty bingo dauber and it works fine. Here in Canada we're just so limited on....everything you guys can get.
Great presentation. I'm getting the Buckthorn Blaster for the burning bush taking over my woods.
Great!
Hey buddy, hope you've been well! Your vid here just popped up as I was looking into a technique I hadn't heard of before, the basal cut stump treatment -- it's like a cut stump but you also do a basal bark technique to the remaining stump, assuming you didn't low-stump it. Anyway, keep crushing, great video!! We use the Buckthorn Blaster a lot for Tamarix spp. and some others out here in the west and it has saved us so much $$ on herb as well as being way safer than the ol' paintbrush. Love it!
Thanks, Jay! Nice hearing from you.
There are some plants that are nearly impossible to clear without herbicide. Tree of Heaven would be at the top of that list for me. I like the blaster. Thank you for the info.
That’s almost all the woody invasives that I deal with - that’s the importance of this tool: if people don’t use herbicide they don’t control the invasives
I think I need to get a Buckthorn Blaster!! I have a wicked Buckthorn issue in Fletcher. I have been trimming with a Stihl trimmer and chainsaw and attacking the roots as much as I can. I pull up the little ones. It's a lot for all my property! I'm trying to promote more biodiversity and more natives... Less nasty Buckthorn! I may have to give this a try. Sounds like the weapon I need in the fight against Buckthorn.
I think it's a really important tool! With a lot of buckthorn, it's really hard to get ahead of it just cutting it -- I call that "just making it mad." Cutting and treating makes a HUGE difference.
@@HowToLoveAForest Too true, it just bunches and spreads! I have some very large and established buckthorn I've taken to pulling out with the tractor. But this seems like much less effort and at a much greater effectiveness! I'm going to try it out! :)
Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for sharing all this information. I'll be getting some of these applicators this spring. This is genius. I've been a big fan of cut stump method for several years now. I like the method due to the lack of collateral damage that can occur with foliar applications. I've always suffered using a spray bottle of some sort and inevitably they leak or fail to spray properly, plus, a good bit of the spray simply misses the stump. So looking forward to this method improvement.
Glad to hear it! I really believe in it too. Figuring out how to use herbicide in a super concentrated and targeted way is so critical to dealing with invasives across the landscape. So important for so many reasons.
@@HowToLoveAForest One question I had, does the little foam tip hold up reasonably well? I could imagine that getting shredded from splinters and rough edges of dabbing it on cut stumps. I did see online that replacement tips are available. I was just curious if you feel they hold up adequately.
Also, now that I think about it... Have you ever used this applicator on plants that have a hollow stem? i.e. Japanese knotweed, bamboo or something along those lines? When I do JKW, I tend to make sure I get a little squirt down in the hollow cane. I wonder if this applicator would work on such stems? Any thoughts? Thanks!
@@ericzipf1332 the foam tips hold up well but you can also buy several replacement tips for like $2. I replace mine maybe once a year. The Blasters also come with a tool to remove the tips.
What you really want to do with knotweed is to get herbicide into the cane - we call it a snip and drip. I’ve tried all types of stuff with knotweed and the only way to kill it is to treat each cane individually with either a snip and drip or a stem injection (which you need a fancy tool for). I have used the Blaster on a small patch of knotweed, trying to get some herbicide into the hollow cane, but it doesn’t feel super efficient or precise - some kind of a dropper is probably a better tool. That way you can also do a better job regulating how much herbicide you’re using.
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for the feedback on the tips. That sounds reasonable if they hold up for a season, sounds about right. Yeah, JKW's a real bugger. We had about an acre scattered about on my GF's farm. Initially I did a foliar app with Imazapyr. That really does a number on it. Gets rid of about 98%, then I moved onto policing of individuals and do your method of snip and drip. Sometimes the stuff is so small the plant hasn't even developed a hollow cane and I just do the cut and squirt the end. I'm actually at the point now, where if I see a little piece, I simply dig the little bastards out and burn the remnants. Thankfully, I've almost defeated this mess after 5 years!
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for your work that you do.
the sides of roads would look so much better if all these invasive vines were removed you could see the trees instead of the vines covering the trees that are slowly killing the trees
I wish you made another video on Glyphosate usage. There's SO much fear of this stuff in the Gardening Community that invasives are invading woodlands because no one can physically deal.
Those that are OK with using it, get pissy Roundup (often with no Glyphosate now) and using such a low dose it's not effective & they give up.
People NEED to understand how it works and the soil issue, etc. (With a note on waterways & surfactants)....
I have Goutweed/Bishops and MF this thing is horrific. Still searching for an effective dose. Tempted to go with 20% at this point.
True! I'll think about it -- good idea
Great idea!
Here in Canada our Roundup sold in big box stores is just a high percentage vinegar and probably more dangerous than Roundup with Glyphosate.
Since I don't drive and everyone I ask who goes to the US thinks they'll be arrested for buying Roundup for me
I had to spend $100 for a single bottle of Roundup with Glyphosate.
Using a dauber application method I'm hoping this is the only bottle I'll ever need to get rid of Dog Strangle Vine I've been battling for over 5 years now. Cut dab, cut dab....I've got a good workout coming up.
@@Bons_Eye It's my understanding Canadian Tire and other places will sell real deal Glyphosate. I've read you have to tell them you have Poison Ivy or something crazy....
@@karunald Well now, that's great to hear.
Although too late for me, I'll take a walk to my Home Depot and ask.
Thank you so very much for sharing that info.
Well look at this cutie! Smart and handsome! I love it!
You didn't mention the time of year when herbicides should be applied even though that information may be on the written directions which come with the product. More importantly though, is explaining about seeds. A plant may be dropping seeds when they are hand-pulled or when herbicide is applied. In that case, one will need to visit that site later to deal with plants that have sprouted from the seeds that may have dropped. Also, many seeds do not all germinate the year following when they were pulled or poisoned. They may delay germinating for two or more years. Again, it is important to visit the site in subsequent years to check for that possibility.
Great points! I just added info about what times of year to treat to the description -- late-summer/early fall is the "best" time to treat, but it's also very effective anytime from June 1-March 1 here in VT, so where landowners are doing it themselves I tell them to just get out there and do it whenever they have time (except for in the spring time) so it doesn't put as much pressure on the August-October time frame.
I also tell them that there are likely seeds in the seed bank that will sprout, so they need to revisit the areas that they treated regularly. I also tell them that so that when they see a bunch of little buckthorns or whatever the following year, its something expected and so not as frustrating. I say "this is going to happen, and its normal." If I didn't do that, I think lots of folks would throw their hands up and give up when that happened.
Does this work anytime of year, it looks like fall in your video, I have many plants in my yard that I need to treat with some larger trees that have berries.
Any time except spring - so you can do it from June 1 right through February where I am
Thank you for this video and to Northern Woodlands magazine for posting a link to it. Could you recommend the best time to do this to burning bush (which is an invasive in some forest edges here in eastern MA?)
Hi Ariane! The best time is August through October, but it works well anytime from June 1 through March 1. When people have a lot of invasives, I advise them to not worry about the “best” time but to do it whenever they have time.
Another question regarding cut-stump application of herbicide -- I have seen some recommendations which say that glyphosate can be used year-round, as long as it is applied right after cutting, but others say that in the winter months you have to use an oil-based herbicide such as triclopyr ester.
I have had good success with glyphosate using the cut-stump method in the winter in Vermont, and we have research backing up the efficacy of this approach. That said - I heard recently from folks elsewhere in the country (southern states, Midwest) who have better luck using triclopyr in the winter, and one person who finds “frilling” and applying triclopyr to be more effective than cut-stump. I find that using glyphosate as I describe is 95+% effective where I work, but if it doesn’t work for you where you are that would be an approach to try. If you’re doing a big project in the winter and you’re concerned about it, cut the buckthorn off high (like 3’) - that way you could cut lower and re-treat later if it isn’t as effective as you hoped.
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for your reply. It's good to know that you have both research and your own experience regarding using glyphosate on cut stumps in the winter. Where I live in southwestern Pennsylvania the primary offenders are Asian honeysuckle shrubs, multiflora rose, privet, and oriental bittersweet, along with occasional buckthorn and other invasives. Since you've had good success with glyphosate during the winter I'll continue to use that when I'm working on my own, and use oil-based triclopyr when I'm working with people who feel strongly that that's the only thing that will work in the late fall and winter. I'll check back next year to make sure the stumps I've been treating with glyphosate aren't showing any regrowth. By the way, after watching your video I bought a "buckthorn blaster." It's a lot less messy than using a jar and a paintbrush. Keep up the good work with your UA-cam videos! I'm sure that people in states other than Vermont (like me in Pennsylvania) have found them to be helpful.
" This was how I came to stare into that tank one summer day and see dead tadpoles littered across the bottom. The day after applying the pesticides we found very high tadpole mortality in the tanks treated with Roundup. Based on the
Australian work, we expected some death, but nothing so widespread. In the end, the study produced a number of very interesting insights about the direct and indirect effects of pesticides on aquatic communities; however, the effect of Roundup on tadpoles was the most striking. Compared to the controls, mesocosms receiving Roundup experienced a 70% decline in amphibian species richness and an 86% decline in tadpole biomass (Fig. 9.3). For example, there was 100% mortality in both leopard frogs (R. pipiens) and gray tree frogs (Hyla versicolor) and 98% mortality in wood frogs (R. sylvatica; Relyea 2005a). "
Interesting. What study is that from?
@@HowToLoveAForest Chapter 9
Amphibians Are Not Ready for Roundup®
Rick A. Relyea Amphibians Are Not Ready for Roundup®
May 2011
DOI:10.1007/978-0-387-89432-4_9
In book: Wildlife Ecotoxicology-Forensic Approaches (pp.267-300)Publisher: SpringerEditors: J. Elliott, C. Bishop, and C. Morrisey Rick A. Relyea
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute
New effects of Roundup on amphibians: Predators reduce herbicide mortality; Herbicides induce antipredator morphology
March 2012 Ecological Applications 22(2):634-47
DOI:10.2307/41416788
SourcePubMed Rick A. Relyea
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute
I found the study that this is from. As I expected, the study shows that the amphibian mortality is related to the surfactants (additives) in RoundUp, and not to glyphosate itself. Actually in the same study it found that glyphosate itself had little or no effect on amphibians. Good reminder to make sure you're using the right formulation of glyphosate! I've never used RoundUp itself, and always use a formulation which is safe for wetlands, even if I'm not applying anywhere near wetlands. Usually the best bet is to use a formulation without surfactants. For others that are interested in checking out this study, you can find it here: www.biology.pitt.edu/sites/default/files/facilities-images/Relyea%20286.pdf
The other thing to remember with studies about glyphosate is that most or all of them are studying its effects when sprayed over large areas -- such as how it is used in agriculture. This study, for example, is effectively studying what would happen if it was applied directly to surface water. Using this cut-stump treatment, we are talking about something very different -- applying a few ounces per acre, applied to the cut stumps of individual plants.
@@HowToLoveAForest what do you buy that is w/o surfactant?
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 The most common glyphosate formulation without surfactant is sold under trade name Rodeo, but there are number of products out there.
Could you possibly update the description with a link to purchase the dauber?
Just did it! It is: shop.naisma.org/
Is this method effective in early spring, after snow but before the leaves come out ?
Where I am, it's effective anytime BUT spring. So summer, fall and winter are all good times (late-summer and fall is said to be the BEST time, but I haven't seen a huge difference). The only time that I don't do it is March through May in VT
Do you find this method works for wild grapes? Although they might not be considered invasive the wild grapes can severely disform trees to the point that they become useless from a timber harvesting perspective. They also can cover the forest floor to the point where the natural regeneration of desired timber species becomes prohibited. I never found this to be an issue in New England but other more temperate parts of the east coast this can be a serous concern. The underground expansive intertwined root system of wild grapes make eradicating them difficult, especially in breaks in the canopy where light is present.
Yes it works on grapes!
Are you referring to Porcelain Berry? We have that stuff, I called it wild grape. My bees love it, but it kills trees.
How long should you wait to replant in that area?
It depends on where in the world you are, but I don't generally replant anything except in very special cases. Here in Vermont we largely rely on natural regeneration -- that said, there are cases in very severe infestations when some planting may be warranted -- my recommendation in that case would be to plant trees and shrubs in the spring following the treatment, and to continue to control invasives that sprout up around them. In other areas of the US the strategy might be different, however.
Does this work on knotweed?
No - only for woody Invasives. For knotweed, I’d recommend a “snip and drip” method. If you look that up you should be able to find more details
"snip and drip" got me irrigation links.
"snip and drip" knotweed got me 1 hit for. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (.gov)
www.fws.gov › filesPDF
Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge
This said to do foliar and your suggestion snip and drip
Search for snip and drip herbicide got me a nz link for phragmites. Yep snip off the plant and drench the inside of the column
I had previously with mixed results cut a slit in the bottom stem and injected the green shoots blue foam. The following year, Sept, after flowering, had tried the green shoots method and drop some on some leaves of a plant as I walked backwards through the stand. That method reminded me of your dauber, as an alternate to dropping on some leaves/foliar.
Will see as this season moves along as how well that worked.
I suppose the dauber process does not have a foaming agent in the mix?
Thanks for the input!
I do not know if the cut and drip would work in spring and summer. The green shoots method is the plant has a flow down of food and glyco blue foam to the roots as the season wraps up to store the food for next season.
If using glyphosate, does it matter whether you use a formulation with surfactant?
With glyphosate applied to a cut stump it usually isn’t necessary, but some people recommend it. An easy surfactant for this purpose would just be a small squirt of dish soap. Many herbicide formulations already contain some surfactants so look at the label of the herbicide you’re using and see what it recommends!
@@HowToLoveAForest Thanks for the quick reply. My concern was that most of the glyphosate products intended for use by the general public already contain surfactant, and i wanted to be sure that the surfactant already in there wouldn't interfere with cut-stump treatment. As far as labels, I have found that most of them just list the herbicide and lump everything else together as "other ingredients" -- not very helpful if you want to know things like whether or not the product contains surfactant. Thanks for the recommendation for the "Buckthorn Blaster." I have one on order. It should be a lot more convenient than the jar and paintbrush approach.
@@sarco64 With most of the herbicide concentrate, the label will be like a little booklet. "The label is the law" but also it generally will contain information about how to use the herbicide and how much to use and a long list of what the herbicide is suitable for -- it will usually say if you can use it for cut-stump application. Either way, adding a little dish soap won't hurt anything, but I have had good success using the cut-stump method with lots of different formulations of glyphosate without adding surfactant.
You need to wear gloves when handling the buckthorn blaster. Eye protection?
Gloves yes - eye protection shouldn’t be necessary, but do what feels comfortable to you!
@@HowToLoveAForest I mention eye protect in that some formulations can be damaging to the eyes. Maybe a greater risk during herbicide mixing and filling. Low risk in the field, but strange things happen.