Really nice looking clever. And I especially appreciate how you included where things went wrong, and how you worked around that. I'm working on a Go-Mai Nakiri right now and I hope it comes out half as nice!
pretty cool! i was grinding and test etching my first sam mai today and i got a similar thing where the core was too thin and the cladding was on the edge. thankfully i got it fixed but the edge is at final thickness pre heat treat so ill see what happens after the quench.
Great job even though u had to take some off the front still looks awesome and the handle that handle even makes it look even more awesome and badass great job once again
I am assuming that the aggressive dies moved the central high carbon steel off center. Also, that mill scale was killing me! Definitely get rid of it before final sanding!
Im sure that was the issue. I need to make some less agressive ones for my press. Leaving the mill scale until the end was just a brain fart on my part. Seems like i hadnt made a brute de forge in a while 😂
Excellent work! I do have a warning about adding alcohol to epoxy. Alcohol is like very weak acetone and is used in many of the same applications. Just like Acetone softens epoxy alcohol will do the same.
I recently started making my core steel 1/2" - 3/4" wider than the cladding so there's less risk of what happened to you. But hey, we don't make mistakes, we make smaller knives!!!
I know people like using mild steel for SanMai but it's not worth risking all that wasted time when if you've got a press just use hardenable steel throughout.
I've had this problem in the past. I was considering extending the core past the cladding material slightly to stop that cladding from rolling over the top of the core. I think that might do the trick. Shame it happened cause that cleaver was on point. Still came out nice though. Thanks for the video.
I think if i had a thicker core than the cladding i could avoid the problem but its one of those things that come to mind after i mess up 😅. Your method should work as well. Thanks for watching.
Great recovery with the crossover.
Thanks! Im glad it worked out.
Beautiful 😍 🤩 work buddy 👍
Thanks bud
Really nice looking clever. And I especially appreciate how you included where things went wrong, and how you worked around that. I'm working on a Go-Mai Nakiri right now and I hope it comes out half as nice!
Dope AF results, @JPsBladeworks! This should be in a high-end kitchenware catalog and/or retailer!
Thank you for the kind words
"Knife makers don't make mistakes. They make smaller knives." Finished great anyway!
Thanks for the awesome video
Thanks for watching
Nice work dude 😃😃
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
pretty cool! i was grinding and test etching my first sam mai today and i got a similar thing where the core was too thin and the cladding was on the edge. thankfully i got it fixed but the edge is at final thickness pre heat treat so ill see what happens after the quench.
Good luck with your build. Be sure to join the viking challenge. You could get some cool prizes if you win.
@@JPsBladeworks thanks, this build is for the Viking challenge but I don’t expect to win any prizes. I’m really just doing it for fun.
Great job even though u had to take some off the front still looks awesome and the handle that handle even makes it look even more awesome and badass great job once again
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
I am assuming that the aggressive dies moved the central high carbon steel off center. Also, that mill scale was killing me! Definitely get rid of it before final sanding!
Im sure that was the issue. I need to make some less agressive ones for my press. Leaving the mill scale until the end was just a brain fart on my part. Seems like i hadnt made a brute de forge in a while 😂
Love that quench tank! What kind of mild steel did you use? Or is it just random? 🔪❤️
Just random mild steel. I have a knife coming up that i will use wrought iron for. That one will be a fun one.
This cleaver is fckn sweeeeet!!
Thank you. The chef that received this guy was a very happy camper as well.
Excellent work! I do have a warning about adding alcohol to epoxy. Alcohol is like very weak acetone and is used in many of the same applications. Just like Acetone softens epoxy alcohol will do the same.
Ill keep that in mind. Ill probably test it out on something before i uee it on something expensive.
I recently started making my core steel 1/2" - 3/4" wider than the cladding so there's less risk of what happened to you.
But hey, we don't make mistakes, we make smaller knives!!!
I live by that statement
Sick cleaver
I know. Stupid sharp.
That press is a beast.
I love the new set up
I know people like using mild steel for SanMai but it's not worth risking all that wasted time when if you've got a press just use hardenable steel throughout.
Regardless of the mild steel on the edge if it was hardenable steel i would have still cut it back just for the asthetics of the knife.
You dont need less aggressive drawing dies just use kiss blocks
I need to make some
@@JPsBladeworks i just take pieces of scrap, cut em to say 1"x3" and tack weld them on the corners
Primero!
Segundo!
Just an opinion here, but forge scale left on a knife meant for cooking is just a place for bacteria to grow.
People like them because they have the hand made look. I do them because it helps better my forging skills.
If it’s cleaned that’s not a problem.. wash your knives lol carbon steel isn’t fragile you can wash them 😅
I've had this problem in the past. I was considering extending the core past the cladding material slightly to stop that cladding from rolling over the top of the core. I think that might do the trick. Shame it happened cause that cleaver was on point. Still came out nice though. Thanks for the video.
I think if i had a thicker core than the cladding i could avoid the problem but its one of those things that come to mind after i mess up 😅. Your method should work as well. Thanks for watching.
I think thicker core steel is preferable to extending the core past the cladding; less chance of bad forge welds.@@JPsBladeworks