Quick and Dirty Lathe Tool Height Gage
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Making a simple, but accurate lathe tool height gage. I've been meaning to make one of these for a while and finally got around to it. I also show off my Sky Hook crane, and we talk about some of the topics that came up in the last video.
Contact me:
AlwaysSunnyintheShop@gmail.com
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I just use a point in the tail stock. I swing the compound around, adjust the height, and swing it back. It’s quite accurate.Doesn’t take more than 30 seconds.
I don’t know what you guys do. But a lot of us have a separate tool holders for each tool. You just switch them out. No setting each time. Set it and forget it. Each insert type has its own tool holder. Each tool holder has it own tool post holder. Just loosen and slide them in and out. Yes, you accumulate a lot of tool holders. But it’s far quicker and more pleasant to use.
Side note. I noticed the lock ring on your tool holder adjustment uses a setscrew instead of the common double nut setup. Great idea as I find the double nut often changes the setting when I lock it. Thanks, I'll try it.
Accuracy is the test of machining. And few are like "our" Aaron. Thanks kind Sir. Keep it up. May Jesus continue to give you the talents that you have. Awesome!
Thanks so much, Pat
Hello Aaron,
Nice work and far better to use an accurate gauge than a tailstock center or rule (scale)...
Take care.
Paul,,
You are demonstrating that with training your sense of touch can get you within a thou. I practice with paper shims used in piano work. You can learn to sense things within a thou with your fingers.
Great build Aaron! Thank you.
If you keep your gage blocks oiled, they will "Ring" together and not fall apart. That was how we used them at the National Bureau of Standards when I was a Physical Dimensional Lab Tech. Just clean and reoil them before reboxing.
Oil is just to protect them they should ring dry
The term is wringing and as much oil should be removed prior to fitting blocks together, as possible. Blocks should wring together, even if both surfaces are completely dry and in a vacuum. This is why they make wringing pads, which are designed to "dry" the block's face. Blocks with a surface finish >5.0E-6in will have a difficult time wringing and should be replaced with ones that are grade AA or better. If you use Chromium Carbide blocks, there's zero need for any type of oils or coatings, for wringing or preservation.
Have you tried A-9 non ferrous cutting fluid? Smells not to bad.
Nice Tip.Thanks.
Aluminium is a poor choice for a tool that you want to maintain dimensional stability with thermal changes. I know that sort of precision doesn't really matter here, but its just something to think about when making tools.
Yeah for sure. Aluminum is good for making lots of things, but hardened and ground tool steel is used for most tools for a good reason. Couldn’t justify all that effort for the benefits of this tool though, so aluminum is definitely good enough.
Simple is often over looked in the shop.
What ever you do don’t try car dif oil it’s to good at preventing steel to steel contact so it stops you lathe tool from cutting 🤯
just use carbide tools. It doesn't prevent steel to carbide contact.
Overkill.....
Gday Aaron, very handy tool to have and a good reminder that I need to make one myself, cheers Matty
My only concern with this being aluminum is thermal changes
Maybe it doesn't matter but...
He's got a semi-airconditioned garage, he should be fine.
We’re talking manual lathes here, a thou or two off center is perfectly fine. On a lathe this size you’re typically doing things that you could be off center 1/4” and still be alright
Your guages should "ring" together?
They’re not in perfect shape so not all of them wring.
I have been a manual machinist since the late 80's. There are numerous methods to set tool height. Someone said they still need to adjust after, that depends on a lot of things like tool wear, material being cut, the finish it is producing, the ambient room temperature. Personally if there is no standard, I just face cut till no pip is left then carry out a standard cut to make sure I am happy with the setting. Done in 2 mins.
If you clean the blocks with gage block cleaner and ring the blocks together they will not come apart very easily.
Looks like the tip of the dial indicator was working in an angle. It will only give a correct measurement when reading exactly 90 degrees to the axis of the tip. I bet the gauge is more than accurate enough anyway and I love the "keep it simple" approach. Just want to comment so that people don't forget.
Absolutely true 0 and 90 degrees is best
If you're measuring size yes, but if you're just comparing two things it shouldn't matter.
Aaron, here's a tip [seen here] ua-cam.com/video/2lOOl3VxOtE/v-deo.html Learn how to "wring" your gauge blocks, so that they will stick together like magnets. They will also be more accurate...Cheers👍
Watched that when you wring them together they are held by molecular cohesion even the oil from your hand can stop them wringing together.
If your gauge blocks are accurate enough and in good condition they should wring together.
the ways is many and different, i use a center drillbit in the chuck and set my tool to match the point of the drillbit - fast,easy and works perfect for me
Aaron, is there any chance I could talk you out of using Rapid Tap for a cutting fluid? If you will look at the Data Sheet for this product, you will see they recommend that one does NOT inhale the fumes. See: If you can detect an odor, it will impact your health. In this respect, I am not a fan of WD-40 either
Drill and tap the end of your bar. Take a piece of square stock and drill a hole crosswise into it so it can be attached the end of your height setting bar. Now you may use the bar as shown or swing the square stock over the cutting tool to see if it hits. Handy for tools that don't hang out over the lathe's bed flats.
Measure the length of the finished setting bar and mark it on the lathe somewhere. Helpful to know if you are boring work clamped to the apron.
Absolutely an Outstanding Solution 👍 ... simple and fun to make. Thank you Arron, for sharing your tips and ideas with the Home Machinists. Please stay safe and well
I made exactly the same thing a while back, and it's a great tool. A "feature" of using aluminum or brass is that shavings that get stuck to the magnet wipe right off.
Fantastic that sky hook from oxford England 🏴
You’re lathe is so smooth. And pretty
where did you buy your QcTp
Hiya Aaron
Dirty magnet? Use painter's tape. Won't leave residue.
Good call!
Nice job. We posted this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Great! Hopefully it helps.
Why not make a roll away scissor lift, of preferred size, also having the scissor lift be a "movable" shelf for large tooling, that could be set aside the lathe for convenience and portability?
Something like this:
ua-cam.com/video/YY_cLW2L47Y/v-deo.html
Or this:
ua-cam.com/video/BtaD9UJDx8A/v-deo.html
When I used to work in a machine shop it was always told/instilled to/in me, through out my apprenticeship, "work smart, not hard this way you'd understand how to K.I.S.S." LOL. Man those days take me back. Awesome channel. Great content. and cool projects.
Thanks Eddie. I've got a material lift made by Genie that has saved by back a hundred times, but it's not as stable as a scissor cart. I just need a gantry when I get the shop addition done, and I'll be all set.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Oooo, future video episode, can't wait.
Neat Gauge: In truth, the gauge can be +/- 0.001" and you won't notice any "tit" (the tool will shear off the tit when facing) and the sine error is ridiculously small on all but the smallest diameter work. Your parting tool will run better just below (~0.005") center, but if you need to cut a groove to a specific diameter, set it on regular height and slow your feed down.
Yeah I wasn't super worried about the slight difference- glad my thought process was valid!
Got to agree, one shouldn't obsess to the nearest tenth, unless you are single point threading 0-80 that is.😉
One thing about cutting oil, on certain operations like cut off and kurling I just use my regular old dark cutting oil. Especially on cut off, aluminum is bad to gall up, so on those operations it just works well for me
I usually just eye ball it by looking at the cutter face to the work diameter. If its a little low rarely an issue. If it is a little high the extra cutting force is quickly apparent. Your method is probably better.:-)
You get pretty good results by eye, so I’m not gonna judge!
I have a piece of 1/4" round which is ground to a point and ground half way, it is bent at 90 and welded to a piece of box section. Set to the centre height, hangs on a nail on the wall.
Took me 3 mins to make used it for years.......
However yours is pretty
A comment if I may? That skyhook base attachment into those thin cast iron flanges on your top slide, combined with the the significant lever arms and the mass of the chuck is a recipe for disaster. Do not be surprised if one day the whole assembly tears out - with the associated tears.
Regardless of geometry . The insert will still sit on centre height. We can't adjust centre height on slant bed cnc lathe....
Speaking of cutting-oils... Try Canola oil(they actually use it as the main bulk in many commercial lubricants) mixed with however much low-aromatic lamp-oil is needed to get the desired viscosity.
Little/no smell a high'ish smoke-point and not overly toxic either...(and it's CHEAP...)
Your way works, but I find it a bit fiddly.... For the last 51 years I have just pinched my 6" flex scale between the tool and side of the part. Look at it towards the chuck and adjust till vertical. Pretty accurate for me all these years.
Not easier to gently touch off the part without the lathe running to zero in that way you wouldnt have accidently took a fine cut
Aaron - video request - Lathe tour + Mill tour. Let us see what these machines will do especially their unique features. Thanks.
I swear I saw you lifting your steady rest by hand not that long ago. Was the crane ok vacation?
Edit: looks like I wasn't alone. Lol. Keep up the awesome videos.
Useful tool, on my list of lists, I think.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing 👍😎👍
I followed Joe's video as well and made this tool out of aluminum. I do use it all the time. One thing I've noticed is even setting the height with this tool, occasionally I still have to fine tune the height a tiny amount. Again, it's useful for setting your height fast.
If I remember rightly Joe made the top of the height gauge out of stainless screwed to the aluminium didn't he? I suppose in a working environment it needs to be of a robust material to withstand rough handling while remaining accurate.
👍🏻
I have a nice Hardinge lathe tool height dingus. One of these days I'll try to adapt it to my lathe.
I was going to buy one of those, but they go for crazy money on eBay.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Mine came in a pile of stuff in a local auction, didn't know what it was until I saw one on ebay. I doubt I paid much, sometimes the boxes-o-crap get tagged on the next item for a buck when they don't sell directly. Then when you pick up it's your job to haul it off and throw it away.
20 minutes!!! WTF???
Umm, what?
Is the chuck that heavy to waste so much effort with a sky hook? A nice wooden cradle would do less damage and a hydraulic table for lateral transfer and work surface half the time. You are never going to mill anything you can’t lift by hand anyway, it’s like an engine hoist for a lawnmower engine. Some toys are just not needed, just saying.
The chuck is about 120 lbs and the spindle is up at about chest height for me. Add in how much I have to lean over the bed to pull the chuck off, and yes, it’s definitely worth it. I did it before I had the Sky Hook but I will never change it again by hand.