I don’t know what it is but some of the jobs you do are quite “how can I put it without being rude” “dull” but it’s the way you come across & go into the little details that I always like & it keeps me glued to the screen. Any other videos on something like this & I lose interest in minutes but with you I’m riveted. Love it, keep them coming👍
Nice, Im planning to do this myself with my MT07 Swingarm as paint quality is shit. I would personally did lighter coats, let it dry and repeat til a good finish. heavy coats is alright but that why theres ripples.
Here's a tip for you that helped me a lot. Put the spray cans in a bucket filled with warm water and let them warm up for half an hour prior to painting. The paint inside the can will come out easier and gives a much nicer result.
Hi Chris, I hear that one every time i paint in a video lol... TBH, its an old wives tail buddy... if the room is warm enough, then its far better that the liquid inside the can is the same temperature as the room...so as long as the can has been in the room you're going to spray it in... and for long enough to stabilize.. then thats fine... heating the can will increase the pressure as it runs down and keep the atomisation going.. but these cans blow hard right to the last drop... also a bucket of water will go cold in half an hour (try it) and then act to actually cool the paint... and if its a different temp to the room....you can end up with bloom.. we all have tricks we like i guess, if you run down on pressure, just c=shake it in front of the heater for a minute.. soon warms it up..!
I’m a panelbeater to trade from 40-odd years ago and hung about with the painters although one never admitted to that back in the day. Separate trades! But from what I learned, I don’t believe that you could have achieved any better a finish with DIY products. Our painters would go completely mental if the spray booth door got opened during or shortly after spraying. BLOOMING they would shout. So you’ve taken me back to my youth explaining the risks and ways to avoid it. Excellent stuff, Sir.
Thank you most kindly Sir, it is always a great honour to get praise from the trade... am no paint expert by any means, it's just about understanding a little bit of physics and chemistry and of course, good old practice! Thank you again, take care my friend, Del
You were talking about using a digital vernier caliper whilst changing the swing arm bearings? Well....they are on special offer at Aldi just now at [drum roll] £7.99. YES £7.99. What’s not to like, people!!
Used this product and Delboy's tips to do my swing arm, forks, sun frame and the frame is next. A super amazing finish that looks perfect, even for the novice like me. (the workshop vise even got a new coat) superb video as always del, can wait to show you the progress on the CBR 💪🏼
Nice one Del You can get a really nice finish with rattle cans if you get your prep right . I think one of the most important things is the temperature . Worth noting keep the cans in the airing cupboard for a few hours to bring them up to temp . When i did the swing arm on Phils DT i rigged it up in front of the wood burner to cure , Happy High few hours !!! Gotta recommend smooth hammerite here . With the ER 50 we're doing now, i've gone down the powder coating route , never been convinced for the reasons you said , but i think it's got better than the garden furniture coating of years gone by . And any Hoo , when its done , it'll never leave the lounge !!!
Nice thick finish to the paint, should last well and be very tough. Thanks for the tip about keeping the temperature up after painting. I'm quite impressed with the brand of paint you are using too.
Sure thing mate, over the years of practice, it's the little things you do that can trash a job and leaving the garage, letting all the heat out, switching off the lights and heater, temperature can plummet 10degrees in 3mins, and can send the paint surface into shock, or cover it in fine condensation, as the metal's warm and the air's cold... you don't do it all at once lol !
Looks great! My 7R swingarm has some areas like below the brake reservoir and near the paddock stands were paint has suffered. The finish looks really good, shows how important the prep is.
Too right mate, I was amazed the amount of factory paint that had flaked off mine in just those areas you mention, so I took extra care when re-painting it to get lots of etch primer in to those areas and plenty of tough paint ...!
Fitting a curtain midway into the garage will reduce the size of the garage by around half, allowing your heater to be more efficient(heating half a room is cheaper and warmer than the whole room), it should also raise the temperature in the half away from the door. I hope this makes sense. lol
Yes it does mate, and quite right too, but as you notice I paint at the exit end of the garage away from the units, and have the fan blowing to push the dust and fumes out the door, so if I made the front in to a sealed spray booth I'll end up with multi coloured painted units and of course the lift is in the way as well... just need a bigger space mate, simple as that lol ... thanks for the observations, we really appreciate the way that our viewers take the care to share their ideas, we learn so much from our viewers...
I’m by no means a spray paint expert but I have to say Del that finish looks absolutely fantastic. If I could achieve anything near that I’d be we’ll chuffed. Really nice job mate.
You could do this easily mate... it's just a little practice and a whole heap of preparation... it's just practicing getting the balance between too much and not enough, and then getting the heat right in the room - rattle cans are for us mere amateurs, so they're made to be easy to use ... cheers buddy!
Do It Yourself! and Yes wet paint over powder coat all day every day! Wet paint is more flexible, it stays flexible...where I saw powder cracking often. It's a great process...but it can be overrated. :)
Beautiful work, Del. I heard you reference that the wheels were "back at the house"... oddly all along I thought the garage was at your home! The mind plays tricks! Again, well done... have a great weekend there.
Its not far away Gary... Only walking distance, i wish i had a huge plot with space to build a huge shop... but this is England.. garages are seen as nothing more than 'potential spare bedrooms' to most builders... you have it so lucky over there in the land of the free..!!
I was going to send my bike parts to be painted, I can paint in a spray booth but i dont have access anymore. BUT watching your rattle can finishes, im going to do it myself with cans...
Just found your videos, very informative, I like the way you work. I had to comment though because I saw you using Copaslip on the swingarm. I started using Copaslip on bikes a long time ago, and once in a while I found it wasnt helping, it almost appeared to be making it worse. I started to look into it and found that Copaslip is recommended for steel-on-steel applications. I had an old RD and had issues, for example with the pad retaining pins seizing in place. I started using Copaslip on them and then found it was just as bad the next time I went to change the pads. This is when I looked into it and found that Molyslip (the folk that make Copaslip) also make Alumslip. This is what I use on my bikes all the time now (i.e. for about 20 years) and have not had problems since. In fact, when I work on new bikes, I often see what looks like Alumslip in certain places, e.g. caliper bolts, etc. I am a metallurgist by profession and this makes complete sense to me. Although I have heard that Copaslip was not designed primarily to work as a galvanic protection (e.g. like zinc galvanising on steel), I believe there is an element of it at play. Although Molyslip commented that Copaslip is primarily a barrier between two surfaces, I believe the copper in Copaslip will help protect steel, the same way that zinc does; the copper or zinc is more reactive and corrodes; in doing so it creates a corrosion cell and "sacrificially protects" the steel in the same way that sacrificial anodes work on steel hulled ships. However, aluminium is more reactive than copper, so when we put Copaslip on a steel bolt threaded into aluminium, the aluminium corrodes preferentially. Anyhow, I wanted to pass this on. I have not done a scientific study of this or anything, but I've certain found it working in practice over the years....
I'm sure you aware of the extreme difference in melting point between the two anti-seize compounds? In case you're not Alumslip flows at 650C compared to 1100C for copper, just something I'm conscious of when using any anti-seize compound on brakes... certainly on a high performance bike at least.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Dellboy... no, I'd use Copaslip on the back of the pads. I wouldnt have a problem putting it on the mounting bolts, caliper bolts & pins etc. In any case, if they were getting anywhere near the melting point of aluminium, I dont think they'd make the calipers from an aluminium alloy.... tensile strength is reduced massively from a long way below the melting point. Anyway, my brakes dont see extreme conditions on account that I ride like a pussy most of the time.
We`re doing headlight restoration for our customers in the shop. lots of sanding and afterwards 2C- clearcoat... Lately the results aren`t what we hoped for... The first formed cloudy lines ( I now assume it bloomed, was a rainy day outside) so we hat to resand the whole headlights wich sucks if the clear is still wet... Today the sanding was fine but the laquor cracked during curing so I think it had problems curing properly? Maybe it still was to cold in the workshop?
Can`t tell you that, it`s a workshop, so max. 15-20 °C I would say... but gates get opened and closed, cars are moved around.... Not ideal, especially in the Winter
Well 15 to 20 is about right, no less than that.. but if you can keep the temp up, and the door closed for maybe an hour or two directly after painting then it will have a good change to set hard enough not to bloom by then..
Ever use JB 80 vs WD 40? Over here in the USA I use many Justice Brothers products. Good company with numerous solutions, lubes and fuel additives. The JB 80 is great for external moving parts like exterior door hinges on Mini's. Other aircraft lubes are exceptional as well.
Hi Steve... no i have never used JB 80. ill give it a look though, it sounds like and alternative for WD40.. many good products about these days aye.. Thanks for your message. take care. Del.
I keep cans of JB 80 in different places for immediate use. Puts WD 40 to shame. Their Fuel Injection Service kit works wonders too. Love all your vids!! www.justicebrothers.com/
Hi, You've got across one of those trouble maker bolts like me ....lol , Lovely job that swingarm paint looks amazing. I'll paint my engine side cover, hope it'll look a bit similar , thanks for the tips. Gus
nice job you should be a spraypainter like me.im not sure what paint your using. is it airdry enamel, acrylic also called 1k paint, 2 pack paint also called 2k. started trade 35 years ago on acrylic lacquer paints and your 100% correct on bloom. enamel paint never really experienced bloom cause we hardly use it in automotive. 2pack does not bloom at all at least never seen it bloom also spraying outdoors in cold
Thank you Fernando, that's very kind of you, it is an honour to have the appreciation of the trade and the regard of real professionals... this paint is a formulated flexible stone chip paint, air dried, with an acrylic base, so it is 1K, but it takes around 3 weeks to cure fully like an enamel, and then it is fuel resistant, tough and flexible, have even dropped tools on this paint in a careless moment, and it doesn't mark it... Cheers for your input mate!
Great finish 😎 as I'm building my trike ( Mavis ) your videos has helped me understand a lot on self maintenance, build, and spray painting.learning new tricks from you every time. Thank you 😎🤘
That's awesome, really great to hear that we've been able to inspire you, good luck with your build and always drop us a line if you need a second opinion on anything mate, it's an honour to be involved ....
Yeah, but it dries as dust and either wipes up or blows out... its a working space matey, not a show garage..lol... Thanks for your kind concern.. have a good weekend. Del.
I say it almost every week, but great channel and great music selections! I only have the "Alert of new video Bell" checked a few channels and this is one of them.
Aluminum: is not an easy surface and scratching it will not make the paint stick fully; maybe for 30 days. So you are not mistaken and must prep the surface and then use an epoxy primer.
That does look a nice finish on that. You look week chuffed with what you've done and that came out in the video. Good on ya. Can't wait to see the back end on all fresh. Ride safe bruv
Cheers Ray, once I've done the frame mid-section too, with this and the wheel fitted, you can imagine how those foot pegs are gonna look - thanks again mate, see you in a fortnight !
My old man always used to say , you’ll only get out of a job what you put into it . How true that is and your efforts are paying dividends mate but maybe next make sure all the surplus nuts and bolts are removed BEFORE degreasing LOL Dohhhhh. C.
You are so right mate... I just forgot about those, thought they would wind out easy enough, as the range of movement for wheel adjustment was fine, it's just when you actually went to take them all the way out, that the half inch on the end that hangs inside the swing arm, and never gets in side the thread, must have got rusted out and just wasn't playing the game! We learn with every task aye!
(P) Fantastic job mate...can't wait to see the dried, satin finish! With the satin wheels, no doubt it's gonna look amazing once back together! Working on trying to get my carport turned into a garage, so I can start attempting such projects! Hopefully useable by spring...wish me luck!
Hey buddy... That sounds like a cool project, good luck with it.. there is nothing like having a safe, dry place to work on a bike.. The satin finish looks great now, ive included a clip of it 24 hours later in tomorrows video.. im hoping it will look really slick once its all back together... Good luck again with the car port.. get stuck in mate.. Del.
Beautiful finish bruv and i can see why you wanted to di it yourself ..can yoy do me a favour and see if the etch primer has zinc chromate in it. If so brilliant as the best thing to put on bare aluminium is indeed zinc chromate it forms a barrier against oxidants and destroys at a molecular level any organic particles..its a green or yellow chrsitaline layer which paint will adhere to ..and yoy can also use etch primer over it... What you have achieved is marvelous Del and will be tough as hell...i was jusr curious to see the ingrediants of the etch ..(this is not a you should do it another way ).. This is a great video and will help many prep and apply their paint...☮❤
Hi mate, you know how it is, we mere mortals don't get a list of chemicals in it - they do tell you what carrier thinners it has, but nothing on the can about zinc chromate - it is formulated for polished metal and also safe on fibre glass apparantly... here's a link mate: www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/etch-primer/ Thanks for you kind words, as ever, keep warm, soon be Spring (see what I did there!) D&Px
hey thanks for the link Simoniz (holts)is a great brand ive started recently to use their rattle can for all sorts , wheel silver ,matt ,semi gloss and gloss black and the tough black ive used on various projects ,my nearest car spares shop stocks it so its a no brainer..they do a double thick cellulose enamel also which is excellent for doing little touch ups on frames etc.. i just fs365 'd the xjr ..i think i went a bit mad and managed to put half a litre on it !! after two hours of maticulous polishing.i,m going to attempt to ride and not clean ,,the way you did on the Harley..and keep topping it up each ride then try to only clean it once a month, we'll see how i survive that one !! ok..brother take care and love to you and Penny xxx
How many cans of paint did you use as i have both wheels and swing arm to do on my 96 st1100 pan just in process of getting the bearings done on swing arm. Thanks Mike AKA Magic😎
So far, with both wheels and the swing arm, I'm at 7 cans, but that's pretty heavy coating as I want it to last, I imagine a 6-pack would be enough, especially if you're using primer... it's not expensive if you buy it in bulk, I pay about £30 for a 6-pack inc. delivery!
Hi John, this paint is tough and resilient like hammerite, so it doesn't need any protective coating over it.. and also i want it satin black, and any lacquer would obviously make it glossy... thanks for your kind words buddy... take care. Del.
Just a thought Del, but do you put a filter on the camera? Something like a UV protector will keep the lens in good condition and is a lot cheaper to replace...
Good thinking that man, I usually site the camera as far away from the job as I can, specially with the grinding and welding... have had some sort of protective filter on the 'to do' list for months, just never get round to it as it means a trip to the shops , we just never get the time !
Tough paint needs no clear coat for protection reasons, it's fine by itself.. but if you want a gloss finish then you can.. and of course there is also gloss tough paint available if you prefer..!
i would like to have seen the swinger in flat textured black raptor bed liner through a paint gun rather than a shuts gun gives the standard factory look
Just done my forks with the same spray paint in satin, its turned out great, should i use some very fine wet and dry to get a better finish and polish it after or will it balls up with it been satin? Great videos del done alot of things i wouldnt of dreamed of without them.
Hi mate, thanks for your kind words, if you sand and polish that satin paint, you'll end up with gloss.. and ir could even be patchy too... let it dry right out for about a month mate, and see if you're happy with the finish, it will sink more and more as it cures, and the finish should get smoother... so see how it goes, and you can always clearcoat it later if ou prefer a glossy look.. Good luck chap.. Del.
Really amazing finish del looks great. My question to you is I'm doing my bike at the moment and was thinking of powder coating the frame again as I'm restoring it but seeing this could I spray it myself using the same kind of paint what's your opinion.
Hi mate, Well naturally im biased, i always prefer a good paint job over powder coating.. remember originally powder coating was an industrial coating for railings and fire escapes... it does a good job, but if you do chip it.. then all you can do is touch it up.. but with paint, you can sand back and repaint spots and small areas.. so its infinity reparable..! Only you can make your choice my friend. but i will be painting my frame on this bike, and probably on the next.. Hope that helps you out... Del.
Thank you del I think I'll give it a go as it looks good plus it's my first bike and not really wanting to spend £100-150 on powder coating.Just about to watch your next video looking forward to it keep up the good work mate and thank you.
I don’t know what it is but some of the jobs you do are quite “how can I put it without being rude” “dull” but it’s the way you come across & go into the little details that I always like & it keeps me glued to the screen.
Any other videos on something like this & I lose interest in minutes but with you I’m riveted.
Love it, keep them coming👍
Thankyou...I think..!
Moonfleet41
It was meant as a compliment 👍
I am thoroughly impressed with this paint job with a rattle can. I didn't even expect that good of a job.
Nice, Im planning to do this myself with my MT07 Swingarm as paint quality is shit. I would personally did lighter coats, let it dry and repeat til a good finish. heavy coats is alright but that why theres ripples.
Here's a tip for you that helped me a lot.
Put the spray cans in a bucket filled with warm water and let them warm up for half an hour prior to painting. The paint inside the can will come out easier and gives a much nicer result.
Hi Chris, I hear that one every time i paint in a video lol... TBH, its an old wives tail buddy... if the room is warm enough, then its far better that the liquid inside the can is the same temperature as the room...so as long as the can has been in the room you're going to spray it in... and for long enough to stabilize.. then thats fine... heating the can will increase the pressure as it runs down and keep the atomisation going.. but these cans blow hard right to the last drop... also a bucket of water will go cold in half an hour (try it) and then act to actually cool the paint... and if its a different temp to the room....you can end up with bloom.. we all have tricks we like i guess, if you run down on pressure, just c=shake it in front of the heater for a minute.. soon warms it up..!
I’m a panelbeater to trade from 40-odd years ago and hung about with the painters although one never admitted to that back in the day. Separate trades!
But from what I learned, I don’t believe that you could have achieved any better a finish with DIY products.
Our painters would go completely mental if the spray booth door got opened during or shortly after spraying. BLOOMING they would shout.
So you’ve taken me back to my youth explaining the risks and ways to avoid it.
Excellent stuff, Sir.
Thank you most kindly Sir, it is always a great honour to get praise from the trade... am no paint expert by any means, it's just about understanding a little bit of physics and chemistry and of course, good old practice! Thank you again, take care my friend, Del
Moonfleet41 Polo shirt arrived yesterday. Fits like the proverbial glove.
You were talking about using a digital vernier caliper whilst changing the swing arm bearings?
Well....they are on special offer at Aldi just now at [drum roll] £7.99. YES £7.99.
What’s not to like, people!!
Used this product and Delboy's tips to do my swing arm, forks, sun frame and the frame is next. A super amazing finish that looks perfect, even for the novice like me. (the workshop vise even got a new coat) superb video as always del, can wait to show you the progress on the CBR 💪🏼
Glad it went well Dan, and id love to see it when you're done..
@@Moonfleet41 I'll PM you my email on Facebook, drop me a line and I'll send you some pics 👍🏼
Superb Paint job, I would not believed you achieved such a smooth thick coating from a spray can!
It's all in the prep buddy, and of course, getting the room warmer enough - thank you!
Nice one Del
You can get a really nice finish with rattle cans if you get your prep right . I think one of the most important things is the temperature . Worth noting keep the cans in the airing cupboard for a few hours to bring them up to temp .
When i did the swing arm on Phils DT i rigged it up in front of the wood burner to cure , Happy High few hours !!! Gotta recommend smooth hammerite here . With the ER 50 we're doing now, i've gone down the powder coating route , never been convinced for the reasons you said , but i think it's got better than the garden furniture coating of years gone by . And any Hoo , when its done , it'll never leave the lounge !!!
Great result, preparation, preparation, preparation is what's needed and take your time. Great video Del look forward to the next one.
Couldn't agree more Graham..
Nice thick finish to the paint, should last well and be very tough. Thanks for the tip about keeping the temperature up after painting. I'm quite impressed with the brand of paint you are using too.
Sure thing mate, over the years of practice, it's the little things you do that can trash a job and leaving the garage, letting all the heat out, switching off the lights and heater, temperature can plummet 10degrees in 3mins, and can send the paint surface into shock, or cover it in fine condensation, as the metal's warm and the air's cold... you don't do it all at once lol !
Looks great! My 7R swingarm has some areas like below the brake reservoir and near the paddock stands were paint has suffered. The finish looks really good, shows how important the prep is.
Too right mate, I was amazed the amount of factory paint that had flaked off mine in just those areas you mention, so I took extra care when re-painting it to get lots of etch primer in to those areas and plenty of tough paint ...!
nice. learned something today. didnt think that cold temp would still ruin the paint even hours after spraying the project.
Your not wrong that finish does look good. I just love your confidence when at work!
Cheers mate, didn't come out too shabby aye?!
Fitting a curtain midway into the garage will reduce the size of the garage by around half, allowing your heater to be more efficient(heating half a room is cheaper and warmer than the whole room), it should also raise the temperature in the half away from the door. I hope this makes sense. lol
Yes it does mate, and quite right too, but as you notice I paint at the exit end of the garage away from the units, and have the fan blowing to push the dust and fumes out the door, so if I made the front in to a sealed spray booth I'll end up with multi coloured painted units and of course the lift is in the way as well... just need a bigger space mate, simple as that lol ... thanks for the observations, we really appreciate the way that our viewers take the care to share their ideas, we learn so much from our viewers...
I’m by no means a spray paint expert but I have to say Del that finish looks absolutely fantastic. If I could achieve anything near that I’d be we’ll chuffed. Really nice job mate.
You could do this easily mate... it's just a little practice and a whole heap of preparation... it's just practicing getting the balance between too much and not enough, and then getting the heat right in the room - rattle cans are for us mere amateurs, so they're made to be easy to use ... cheers buddy!
Amazing work in such a confined space and with a rattle can outstanding results 😎👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job done thank you and Penny.Tony
You're welcome Tony, it;s nice to know the filming is recognised a little, PP!
Unbelievable result, You don't stop to inspire me.
That is a stunning finish can't wait to see if back on the bike it's going to look out of this world
Thanks buddy me too, getting excited now!
Do It Yourself! and Yes wet paint over powder coat all day every day! Wet paint is more flexible, it stays flexible...where I saw powder cracking often. It's a great process...but it can be overrated. :)
True words brother, I think it's just become trending to default to powder coat the days aye?!
Great job, it's beginning to come together now.
Awesome Del..like a black chrome ..really nice.. Rob.
Nice prep and paint, Del! Opening/closing music...spot on! Well done!
Thanks buddy, good to hear from you.. hope life is good.. Del.
All good, Del! Days are getting noticeably longer....looking forward to the Spring riding season! ATB
A master class in Painting and video production. Brilliant Del 😁
Blimey Martin, thanks buddy... you're too kind..
Beautiful work, Del. I heard you reference that the wheels were "back at the house"... oddly all along I thought the garage was at your home! The mind plays tricks! Again, well done... have a great weekend there.
Its not far away Gary... Only walking distance, i wish i had a huge plot with space to build a huge shop... but this is England.. garages are seen as nothing more than 'potential spare bedrooms' to most builders... you have it so lucky over there in the land of the free..!!
Moonfleet41 Ha! I remember very well from my time there...
Nicely done.
Absolutely fantastic job Del, looks bloody brilliant mate. Penny and you have a great weekend. Cheers
Thanks mate, that's very kind - happy with the results, and you have a good weekend too, all the very best, D&Px
Wow. it looks like powder coat. Nice job.
I was going to send my bike parts to be painted, I can paint in a spray booth but i dont have access anymore. BUT watching your rattle can finishes, im going to do it myself with cans...
Sure thing buddy, use what you have aye, good luck with it....
That looks bloody brilliant, amazing.
Just found your videos, very informative, I like the way you work. I had to comment though because I saw you using Copaslip on the swingarm. I started using Copaslip on bikes a long time ago, and once in a while I found it wasnt helping, it almost appeared to be making it worse. I started to look into it and found that Copaslip is recommended for steel-on-steel applications. I had an old RD and had issues, for example with the pad retaining pins seizing in place. I started using Copaslip on them and then found it was just as bad the next time I went to change the pads. This is when I looked into it and found that Molyslip (the folk that make Copaslip) also make Alumslip. This is what I use on my bikes all the time now (i.e. for about 20 years) and have not had problems since. In fact, when I work on new bikes, I often see what looks like Alumslip in certain places, e.g. caliper bolts, etc. I am a metallurgist by profession and this makes complete sense to me. Although I have heard that Copaslip was not designed primarily to work as a galvanic protection (e.g. like zinc galvanising on steel), I believe there is an element of it at play. Although Molyslip commented that Copaslip is primarily a barrier between two surfaces, I believe the copper in Copaslip will help protect steel, the same way that zinc does; the copper or zinc is more reactive and corrodes; in doing so it creates a corrosion cell and "sacrificially protects" the steel in the same way that sacrificial anodes work on steel hulled ships. However, aluminium is more reactive than copper, so when we put Copaslip on a steel bolt threaded into aluminium, the aluminium corrodes preferentially. Anyhow, I wanted to pass this on. I have not done a scientific study of this or anything, but I've certain found it working in practice over the years....
I'm sure you aware of the extreme difference in melting point between the two anti-seize compounds? In case you're not Alumslip flows at 650C compared to 1100C for copper, just something I'm conscious of when using any anti-seize compound on brakes... certainly on a high performance bike at least.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Dellboy... no, I'd use Copaslip on the back of the pads. I wouldnt have a problem putting it on the mounting bolts, caliper bolts & pins etc. In any case, if they were getting anywhere near the melting point of aluminium, I dont think they'd make the calipers from an aluminium alloy.... tensile strength is reduced massively from a long way below the melting point. Anyway, my brakes dont see extreme conditions on account that I ride like a pussy most of the time.
We`re doing headlight restoration for our customers in the shop. lots of sanding and afterwards 2C- clearcoat... Lately the results aren`t what we hoped for... The first formed cloudy lines ( I now assume it bloomed, was a rainy day outside) so we hat to resand the whole headlights wich sucks if the clear is still wet... Today the sanding was fine but the laquor cracked during curing so I think it had problems curing properly? Maybe it still was to cold in the workshop?
What temperature was the room you painted in?, before, and after you finished painting..!
Can`t tell you that, it`s a workshop, so max. 15-20 °C I would say... but gates get opened and closed, cars are moved around.... Not ideal, especially in the Winter
Well 15 to 20 is about right, no less than that.. but if you can keep the temp up, and the door closed for maybe an hour or two directly after painting then it will have a good change to set hard enough not to bloom by then..
I like how you take the time to read the comments and respond. Really an awesome channel!
Wow that came out amazing ...well done and excellent production quality for this video.
Thanks buddy, thats very kind..
just like a new one ,i like that brand of rattle paint ,i am impressed
Ever use JB 80 vs WD 40? Over here in the USA I use many Justice Brothers products. Good company with numerous solutions, lubes and fuel additives. The JB 80 is great for external moving parts like exterior door hinges on Mini's. Other aircraft lubes are exceptional as well.
Hi Steve... no i have never used JB 80. ill give it a look though, it sounds like and alternative for WD40.. many good products about these days aye.. Thanks for your message. take care. Del.
I keep cans of JB 80 in different places for immediate use. Puts WD 40 to shame. Their Fuel Injection Service kit works wonders too. Love all your vids!! www.justicebrothers.com/
Wow that looks stunning!
Hi, You've got across one of those trouble maker bolts like me ....lol , Lovely job that swingarm paint looks amazing. I'll paint my engine side cover, hope it'll look a bit similar , thanks for the tips. Gus
Nice one Gus, Good luck with yours, have fun with it.. Del.
brilliant finish , job well done
Yep...gotta be happy with that .
Good effort Del
Thanks buddy, happy how it's come out !
nice job you should be a spraypainter like me.im not sure what paint your using.
is it airdry enamel, acrylic also called 1k paint, 2 pack paint also called 2k.
started trade 35 years ago on acrylic lacquer paints and your 100% correct on bloom.
enamel paint never really experienced bloom cause we hardly use it in automotive.
2pack does not bloom at all at least never seen it bloom also spraying outdoors in cold
Thank you Fernando, that's very kind of you, it is an honour to have the appreciation of the trade and the regard of real professionals... this paint is a formulated flexible stone chip paint, air dried, with an acrylic base, so it is 1K, but it takes around 3 weeks to cure fully like an enamel, and then it is fuel resistant, tough and flexible, have even dropped tools on this paint in a careless moment, and it doesn't mark it... Cheers for your input mate!
Great finish 😎 as I'm building my trike ( Mavis ) your videos has helped me understand a lot on self maintenance, build, and spray painting.learning new tricks from you every time.
Thank you 😎🤘
That's awesome, really great to hear that we've been able to inspire you, good luck with your build and always drop us a line if you need a second opinion on anything mate, it's an honour to be involved ....
Looks mint mate all the prep goes a long way
Sure thing buddy, it is all in the prep!
Great vid, just worry that nice garage is getting a light dusting of paint all over it after all your hard work
Yeah, but it dries as dust and either wipes up or blows out... its a working space matey, not a show garage..lol... Thanks for your kind concern.. have a good weekend. Del.
Lovely job Delboy. It looks like the T1000 from terminator. I hope it dries out nicely for you.
Thanks Dev, awesomest film ever...!
Stunning paint job Del.
Thanks buddy!
Fine work Dell. Thanks for the vid.
Fantastic job again Del really smart
Another saturday morning at work with some content to enjoy! Ace 😎
Lovely finish Del, I’ve just bought the same paint for my front mudguard, hope I get the same result!
Nice one buddy, keep the temperature up, steady wet coats and don't over do it, it'll be fine !
How did it go for you mate, I'm tempted to give mine a go
Enis absolutely spot on mate, great result. Some people don’t believe I sprayed it with a rattle can!
Great prep.great result..
Cheers buddy.
Amazing finish out of a can
it looks beautiful awesome Dynamite paint job, you are the best
Thanks Paul, it's all in the preparation mate, get the flow rate right and temperature, and it usually takes care of itself!
Moonfleet41 you have a lot of knowledge and glad you're sharing.......
Finish looks superb Del. Top job 👍🏻
Thanks mate..
Pretty good job, Delboy, the sides especially look great.
Thanks Johny.. much appreciated mate.
it does seem to flow really nice for rattle cans , nice job mate looks awesome
Thanks buddy, it's just a matter of getting the coat thickness right, and the temperature in the room!
I say it almost every week, but great channel and great music selections! I only have the "Alert of new video Bell" checked a few channels and this is one of them.
Thanks buddy, thats much appreciated..
I painted my Zx7 lower fairings like that and the overspray went onto my bike. Was super annoying, some of it clayed off but not all.
Superb finish Del.
Lovely job, as usual👌👌👌
Great job good viewing vid as is normal from you both
Aluminum: is not an easy surface and scratching it will not make the paint stick fully; maybe for 30 days. So you are not mistaken and must prep the surface and then use an epoxy primer.
Exactly that my friend, well put, it's less porous than steel, and needs more than just a quick key up with some paper...!
nice looking finish, well done Del.
WOW Top job there mate
Really nice job well done
Nice use of heat Del, great finish too.
nicely done,great finish. all the best.
Cheers Rob..
Del what a great finish well done mate mine has bloomed so I've started again my fault lol
Sorry to hear that mate, just scotch it up once its dry and to another wet coat, it should be fine mate.!
That looks AWESOME from a couple of rattle cans mate :)
That does look a nice finish on that. You look week chuffed with what you've done and that came out in the video. Good on ya. Can't wait to see the back end on all fresh. Ride safe bruv
Cheers Ray, once I've done the frame mid-section too, with this and the wheel fitted, you can imagine how those foot pegs are gonna look - thanks again mate, see you in a fortnight !
prelepo,svaka cast
Great info.
Brilliant job that....
My old man always used to say , you’ll only get out of a job what you put into it . How true that is and your efforts are paying dividends mate but maybe next make sure all the surplus nuts and bolts are removed BEFORE degreasing LOL Dohhhhh. C.
You are so right mate... I just forgot about those, thought they would wind out easy enough, as the range of movement for wheel adjustment was fine, it's just when you actually went to take them all the way out, that the half inch on the end that hangs inside the swing arm, and never gets in side the thread, must have got rusted out and just wasn't playing the game! We learn with every task aye!
(P) Fantastic job mate...can't wait to see the dried, satin finish! With the satin wheels, no doubt it's gonna look amazing once back together! Working on trying to get my carport turned into a garage, so I can start attempting such projects! Hopefully useable by spring...wish me luck!
Hey buddy... That sounds like a cool project, good luck with it.. there is nothing like having a safe, dry place to work on a bike.. The satin finish looks great now, ive included a clip of it 24 hours later in tomorrows video.. im hoping it will look really slick once its all back together... Good luck again with the car port.. get stuck in mate.. Del.
Wow nice paint job man
Cheers to Milo. that painting tip - Brillant :)
We all miss Milo..!
You guys are great, remember knowledge i've forgotten I can transfer to other vehicles. Like my bloody tractor. lol
Well done. Another great video producing excellent results. Cheers! 🤓
Cheers John, much appreciated !
Great finish del
Beautiful finish bruv and i can see why you wanted to di it yourself ..can yoy do me a favour and see if the etch primer has zinc chromate in it.
If so brilliant as the best thing to put on bare aluminium is indeed zinc chromate it forms a barrier against oxidants and destroys at a molecular level any organic particles..its a green or yellow chrsitaline layer which paint will adhere
to ..and yoy can also use etch primer over it...
What you have achieved is marvelous Del and will be tough as hell...i was jusr curious to see the ingrediants of the etch ..(this is not a you should do it another way )..
This is a great video and will help many prep and apply their paint...☮❤
Hi mate, you know how it is, we mere mortals don't get a list of chemicals in it - they do tell you what carrier thinners it has, but nothing on the can about zinc chromate - it is formulated for polished metal and also safe on fibre glass apparantly... here's a link mate:
www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/etch-primer/
Thanks for you kind words, as ever, keep warm, soon be Spring (see what I did there!) D&Px
hey thanks for the link Simoniz (holts)is a great brand ive started recently to use their rattle can for all sorts , wheel silver ,matt ,semi gloss and gloss black and the tough black ive used on various projects ,my nearest car spares shop stocks it so its a no brainer..they do a double thick cellulose enamel also which is excellent for doing little touch ups on frames etc..
i just fs365 'd the xjr ..i think i went a bit mad and managed to put half a litre on it !! after two hours of maticulous polishing.i,m going to attempt to ride and not clean ,,the way you did on the Harley..and keep topping it up each ride then try to only clean it once a month, we'll see how i survive that one !!
ok..brother take care and love to you and Penny xxx
Sweet video, very nice job on the paint!
Cheers Tom..
Nice!!! I was waiting For that one big time!
Looks awsome!!!
Cant wait to see iT Fall together....
Thanks buddy, im happy with how it came out...
Rattle can Master!
Ha ha, thanks buddy..
Hi del nice paint job glossy looks factory finish
Thanks buddy... quick peek at the end of today's video!
Nice job.
Nice one Del, amazing 'depth' to that finish 😎
Cheers mate, shame it's a satin finish, it would be cool to have that rich a gloss, it's matted out already 24hrs later, sneaky peek tomorrow!
How many cans of paint did you use as i have both wheels and swing arm to do on my 96 st1100 pan just in process of getting the bearings done on swing arm. Thanks Mike AKA Magic😎
So far, with both wheels and the swing arm, I'm at 7 cans, but that's pretty heavy coating as I want it to last, I imagine a 6-pack would be enough, especially if you're using primer... it's not expensive if you buy it in bulk, I pay about £30 for a 6-pack inc. delivery!
Thanks very much Can't wait to see the next videos 😎
That looks fantastic great finish considering it was done using cans, can you put a varnish on it Del for protection, or would that not work. 👍
Hi John, this paint is tough and resilient like hammerite, so it doesn't need any protective coating over it.. and also i want it satin black, and any lacquer would obviously make it glossy... thanks for your kind words buddy... take care. Del.
Just a thought Del, but do you put a filter on the camera? Something like a UV protector will keep the lens in good condition and is a lot cheaper to replace...
Good thinking that man, I usually site the camera as far away from the job as I can, specially with the grinding and welding... have had some sort of protective filter on the 'to do' list for months, just never get round to it as it means a trip to the shops , we just never get the time !
Moonfleet41 I always get my camera filters from eBay, photographic shops charge too much...
Lovely finish buddy, all in the prep eh
Oh yes indeed buddy, prep is everything ! How I long for a rat bike build again lol ....
Hi, I'm going to paint mine with the Satin Black tough paint, would you recommend using a laquer after? Any advice would be appreciated!
Tough paint needs no clear coat for protection reasons, it's fine by itself.. but if you want a gloss finish then you can.. and of course there is also gloss tough paint available if you prefer..!
@@Moonfleet41 Perfect, thankyou very much for replying. Great channel, time to subscribe!
What sealer could I use on a MT07 SWING ARMS to prevent rust
Can I use a caliper piston puller for these bearings it's practically the same concept has the bearing puller slightly different shape
Delboy where you get the gloss black in the can at ? I would like to buy few cans of the black paint in rattle can.
Great job lovely
Thanks buddy.. much appreciated..
i would like to have seen the swinger in flat textured black raptor bed liner through a paint gun rather than a shuts gun gives the standard factory look
Looking great Del great advice to 😃👍
Cheers Paul - thanks for watching mate!
Just done my forks with the same spray paint in satin, its turned out great, should i use some very fine wet and dry to get a better finish and polish it after or will it balls up with it been satin? Great videos del done alot of things i wouldnt of dreamed of without them.
Hi mate, thanks for your kind words, if you sand and polish that satin paint, you'll end up with gloss.. and ir could even be patchy too... let it dry right out for about a month mate, and see if you're happy with the finish, it will sink more and more as it cures, and the finish should get smoother... so see how it goes, and you can always clearcoat it later if ou prefer a glossy look.. Good luck chap.. Del.
Moonfleet41 brilliant thanks for the reply.
Really amazing finish del looks great. My question to you is I'm doing my bike at the moment and was thinking of powder coating the frame again as I'm restoring it but seeing this could I spray it myself using the same kind of paint what's your opinion.
Hi mate, Well naturally im biased, i always prefer a good paint job over powder coating.. remember originally powder coating was an industrial coating for railings and fire escapes... it does a good job, but if you do chip it.. then all you can do is touch it up.. but with paint, you can sand back and repaint spots and small areas.. so its infinity reparable..! Only you can make your choice my friend. but i will be painting my frame on this bike, and probably on the next.. Hope that helps you out... Del.
Thank you del I think I'll give it a go as it looks good plus it's my first bike and not really wanting to spend £100-150 on powder coating.Just about to watch your next video looking forward to it keep up the good work mate and thank you.
Nicely done Del. eaaaaar my uhuras swing arm could do with some re-furbishmenting lol