Omg. Double cuteness, I miss our twins when they were little. :) Our grandkids bring us so much happiness now. We have one who is so animated. She will go up to people in stores and just talk to them. She will say "Hi man what are you buying today"? They in return will look at us with huge smiles. Off topic sorry! I love your channel. mike Sacramento
I can totally appreciate your design. It takes a lot of trial and error to get things right. Very professional video which I appreciate as well. We (at Indicam) know how much work you went through and you are to be commended for it.
Hey Port, this guy spends his time and passes along his ideas to us, that's pretty honorable if you ask me. Yes, time is money and he spends his free time being creative and helping us. Thanks for all of your videos!! They give me great ideas and are fun to watch, keep it up :-)
This is by far the best described video on how to make a steadicam rig. I attempted to make on about a year ago as well and it is in my basement gathering dust. The problem I had was that I couldn't get it balanced. After watching this video, I think I am going to dig it back up again and add the platform you showed here and use the tips you gave on balancing. I had the problem of it swaying. Thanks a bunch for the great video :)
I was able to adapt the traxxas and bearing idea to adapt the stem of my tripod into a steadicam handle. Posted it as a video response to show how it is different. Thanks for posting this video. Without it I never would have heard of this great idea!!
Thanks for that, it's really helpful. But thanks also for the encouraging comments about practice. Very supportive to those of us who are starting out with this stuff.
Wow. Thanks for the best explanation I've seen on diy stabilization. Other vids leave me with unanswered questions. Thanks the realistic expectation setting section, too often glossed over. Also, as a father of 3 daughters, I appreciated the hugga-wuggas at the end. Nicely done!
I went to look up the macro rail slider on Amazon, and under the 'frequently bought together' section were the Traxxas Shaft and skateboard bearings. Quite a testament to your rig! I can't wait to build it!
Great video Scott, thanks - gave me all the inspiration I think I need. I am preparing for a build with some material modifications once all bits gathered. I got a sliding macro rail - excellent piece of kit, and am waiting on the quick attach head for camera. Also waiting on a universal joint to come - then have a ball joint to use instead of bearing. Plan to use 1/8 x 3/4 Al bar for 'frame' as I have some. In fullness of time hope to post this project and will let you know. Chris.
Nice steady cam. I've used my lightweight tripod with the neck extended up and the legs spread, but not extended. You can grab the neck and run with it. This vid shows how well it works - it took a friend about 30 seconds to figure it out. Very easy.
Based on how popular floating rigs are, I think the need is still there. Using image stabilization is an option for handheld use, but doesn't create the same look or give you the freedom (like running and still being smooth) that a decent steadying rig does.
@shaolonbros I usually never glue my PVC builds since I'll have to disassemble them for the show. If I need them to be sturdy, I'll often put a small piece of gaffter's tape on the end of the pipe to increase the friction when assembled.
I was able to use a 1/2 PVC coup rather than a 3/4 CPVC coup for the bearing. I heated water until it boiled. Holding the coup with pliers. I put what will be the bearing side of the coup into the water just long enough to make the PVC pliable. Once I put the bearing in the coup, I cooled it with ice. It's in there solid and won't pull out. Since I didn't heat the other end, it didn't warp and the scrap piece of PVC I used for the handle fit fine. Thanks to thefrugalfilmmaker for the tutorial.
Can't get end caps or plugs in the UK, so have had to use bottle tops instead. Managed to scrounge an old bearing from the skateboard shop at no charge. Cleaned & oiled it - seems ok. Thanks for the inspiration.
Whenever some one posts a DIY steadycam rig I turn off the sound and watch my cursor on the screen to see how steady the video is. Your example in the beginning of your video was about as good as it gets. The video example at the end of your video was a bit shaky but the first example rocked! I also thought your explanation of the construction was excellent, close up with good sound and lighting. better than the majority of youtube DIY videos. Thanks for sharing.
No glue. Friction holds it together. Some PVC parts can do this, but I've noticed that some brands slip right off of each other, causing me to add little tabs of gaffer's tape to make the connection more solid.
I even subscribed to your channel before wathching your videos. "Utopia Studios" mentioned your channel, then I went to it looking for the most compact DIY Glidecam design and BOOM! Your stuff is very smart. Thank's for making such an interesting channel.
This is great! I will start mine asap but I think I will add a screw through the center of the middle elbow to balance it up or down with a tad more accuracy. Thanks for this vid!
Great, You are defiantly bad ass,,, I worked for many years at Pro Camera Repair in NYC. This mount made of simple materials is genius. My shop in the earlier 70s created some of the world 1st under water housings, the first helmet camera mount, as well as 1st ski mount hang glider mount on and on… of course I'm speaking of tye one and only Marty Forsher’s Pro Camera Repair shot 37 west 47th st. Skills like yours would have been greatly appreciated. Keep creating….
I noticed they were a little stiff at first, but normal use (and the weight of the camera and rig) will loosen them up. I didn't have to make any mods to the joints.
Had a thought - may try and use ball joint on its own first - then maybe add a bearing to that config. I think ball joint and universal might be too unstable. Thanks again for your superb video.
These things are temperamental and need guidance when using. I don't use my thumb much, but do have to turn the handle often to keep it pointed in the right direction.
@mrhulot101 It's interesting, but I noticed that when you are following a subject, you pay less attention to how smooth the shot really is. The POV, however, has nothing to hide behind. I also noticed that the extra lift in my step makes it look very first-person-shooterish.
Hi! thanks a lot for the fine film. I have ordered the parts now and I going to build my first Frugal Floater! I got some nice tips from WSClater using two ballbearings for the pan. Thanks!
@Woodenarrows Roller blade and skateboard bearings are standard sizes so pretty much anything will work. If using CPVC you will need to increase the diameter of the bearing just a bit, I used a few wraps of yellow teflon tape (yellow is thicker than white, but white works too). Bearings can also be pressed into standard 1/2' PVC fittings using a bench vise, but it distorts the end and it can't be removed.
I made an instant glidecam by taking the center post out of a broken tripod for my Panasonic AG-HVX200. I bolted the top of the mount down to prevent any wiggling which allowed me to still use the pan and tilt on the mount. The bottom of the post had a cap on it so I took the cap off and slide on a 2.5 lb. dumbell plate as a counter weight then put the cap back on. Took less than 5 minutes to make an it works perfectly.
@thefrugalfilmmaker: Love the vids! Easier way to whittle down the male end of the Traxxas joint: a course metal file available at your local dollar store, and your vice to hold it while you smooth it out. That's how I plan to do it when I build this. I just ordered the Traxxas joints and the slider rail
@mr4y It would be trickier to operate, since the rig "floats" on a single point (the gimble). I would think a wider point of control would impede the range of motion.
@lukespinner711 It all depends on your needs. a FigRig is much easier to master, but is more "hand-held" looking. A Steadicam/Glidecam has more of a "floating" image, but has a steeper learning curve and more expense.
If you look closely, there is a small semi-circular clip around the threads of the screw. Remove it with some needle nose pliers and the screw should come right out.
Not sure if anyone has already said it, but at 8:05, the easiest way to do this is to put the u-joint part in a lathe and cut it down. Of course, that means you need to have access to a lathe ;) You can probably get away with mounting the part in a drill chuck to spin it, then use a knife/file to remove the material. Either way, spinning the part while removing material will ensure concentricity and make the whole process easier.
@thefrugalfilmmaker Have you thought about adding a shock absorber in there? When you're walking on pavement you can see slight vibrations with each footstep in the shot - although you probably won't see them unless you're looking for them. Excellent work though, definitely something I'm looking at building!
@ashuntboy I tried using my favorite eBay ball head, which I really, REALLY wanted to work due to its simplicity. Sadly, it failed as a gimble, so I had to scrap it.
okay! Get it! I know that you have to turn the handle! Thats normal! But idont want to use my thumb to often because that causes vibration if you ar going. I ordered the plate u used! Tomorrow it will arrive! I put the handle and the pipes together! I will send you photos or video if i got ready!
I think that is a nice design and I am going to try it with a lighter version for the GoPro. I would like something that I can make extreme movements with and I can see adapting a longer pole to it. Having the pole slightly forward so you don't hit the front balance, then I could drop it down fast in front or move it side to side. It would track faster than your body can move.
I recently purchased a Canon vixia HF m301. Great line of cameras just beautiful imahlfe quality. The only problem is I need a better computer to edit the avchd files.
Larger/heavier cams have not fared so well with this rig. Look for the Frugal Floater II in the near future which "should" be easier to balance and handle DSLRs.
Skipping the Quick connect seemed to make a difference, but I prefer the quick connect. I put a T PVC connection to replace the elbow half way down. Then added a few weights to the "T". It seems to have made a difference. I plan to change to a "T" at the bottom so I can add weights left and right. Maybe I should try it at the top behind the camera too.
I bought the bearings as you linked in the description box. They didn't fit the 1/2in cpvc. They actually fit 3/4 in cpvc. Just wanted to point that out in case someone else ran into the same issue.
As I learned recently, *how you run greatly affects how much bounce is in your step. Point being, don't walk/run heel to toe. Toe to heel is how we're meant to walk anyway and this minor change in habit almost completely eliminates how much you move up and down. I tried this with a Fig rig and it worked nicely.
@desaad37 Pictures would be great! Send me a writeup about your experience with the rig(s) and I will happily publish them on my blog and link back to you.
Omg. Double cuteness, I miss our twins when they were little. :) Our grandkids bring us so much happiness now. We have one who is so animated. She will go up to people in stores and just talk to them. She will say "Hi man what are you buying today"? They in return will look at us with huge smiles. Off topic sorry! I love your channel.
mike
Sacramento
*I'm Polish and I do not understand what you say and do not speak good English ... but I saw almost all your movies, and you helped me, thanks
I can totally appreciate your design. It takes a lot of trial and error to get things right. Very professional video which I appreciate as well. We (at Indicam) know how much work you went through and you are to be commended for it.
Hey Port, this guy spends his time and passes along his ideas to us, that's pretty honorable if you ask me. Yes, time is money and he spends his free time being creative and helping us.
Thanks for all of your videos!! They give me great ideas and are fun to watch, keep it up :-)
Pure genius - couldn't keep the grin off my face watching this. Thanks for articulating the steps so clearly and for sharing, Scott!
This is by far the best described video on how to make a steadicam rig. I attempted to make on about a year ago as well and it is in my basement gathering dust. The problem I had was that I couldn't get it balanced. After watching this video, I think I am going to dig it back up again and add the platform you showed here and use the tips you gave on balancing. I had the problem of it swaying. Thanks a bunch for the great video :)
I was able to adapt the traxxas and bearing idea to adapt the stem of my tripod into a steadicam handle. Posted it as a video response to show how it is different. Thanks for posting this video. Without it I never would have heard of this great idea!!
Thanks for that, it's really helpful. But thanks also for the encouraging comments about practice. Very supportive to those of us who are starting out with this stuff.
Could be. I've been kicking that idea around for awhile, but haven't tried it out yet. Thanks for the reminder!
Wow. Thanks for the best explanation I've seen on diy stabilization. Other vids leave me with unanswered questions. Thanks the realistic expectation setting section, too often glossed over. Also, as a father of 3 daughters, I appreciated the hugga-wuggas at the end. Nicely done!
The back weight is very important for the side-to-side adustment, though DSLR users have had trouble using one with this rig.
I went to look up the macro rail slider on Amazon, and under the 'frequently bought together' section were the Traxxas Shaft and skateboard bearings. Quite a testament to your rig! I can't wait to build it!
Great video Scott, thanks - gave me all the inspiration I think I need. I am preparing for a build with some material modifications once all bits gathered. I got a sliding macro rail - excellent piece of kit, and am waiting on the quick attach head for camera. Also waiting on a universal joint to come - then have a ball joint to use instead of bearing. Plan to use 1/8 x 3/4 Al bar for 'frame' as I have some. In fullness of time hope to post this project and will let you know. Chris.
The smoothness of this footage is AMAZING for the price.
Nice steady cam. I've used my lightweight tripod with the neck extended up and the legs spread, but not extended. You can grab the neck and run with it. This vid shows how well it works - it took a friend about 30 seconds to figure it out. Very easy.
Based on how popular floating rigs are, I think the need is still there. Using image stabilization is an option for handheld use, but doesn't create the same look or give you the freedom (like running and still being smooth) that a decent steadying rig does.
@shaolonbros I usually never glue my PVC builds since I'll have to disassemble them for the show. If I need them to be sturdy, I'll often put a small piece of gaffter's tape on the end of the pipe to increase the friction when assembled.
I wound up hand-twisting a 1/8" drill bit through the holes, and that opened them up perfectly! Thanks for the reply though. I love your work!
I was able to use a 1/2 PVC coup rather than a 3/4 CPVC coup for the bearing. I heated water until it boiled. Holding the coup with pliers. I put what will be the bearing side of the coup into the water just long enough to make the PVC pliable. Once I put the bearing in the coup, I cooled it with ice. It's in there solid and won't pull out. Since I didn't heat the other end, it didn't warp and the scrap piece of PVC I used for the handle fit fine. Thanks to thefrugalfilmmaker for the tutorial.
Can't get end caps or plugs in the UK, so have had to use bottle tops instead. Managed to scrounge an old bearing from the skateboard shop at no charge. Cleaned & oiled it - seems ok.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Whenever some one posts a DIY steadycam rig I turn off the sound and watch my cursor on the screen to see how steady the video is. Your example in the beginning of your video was about as good as it gets. The video example at the end of your video was a bit shaky but the first example rocked! I also thought your explanation of the construction was excellent, close up with good sound and lighting. better than the majority of youtube DIY videos. Thanks for sharing.
No glue. Friction holds it together. Some PVC parts can do this, but I've noticed that some brands slip right off of each other, causing me to add little tabs of gaffer's tape to make the connection more solid.
Glad you are back, thanks for sharing all of your awesome ideas!
@cashimirs Haven't had a lot of running tests (wind was a problem during testing), so I'll have to try it out.
I even subscribed to your channel before wathching your videos. "Utopia Studios" mentioned your channel, then I went to it looking for the most compact DIY Glidecam design and BOOM! Your stuff is very smart. Thank's for making such an interesting channel.
This is great! I will start mine asap but I think I will add a screw through the center of the middle elbow to balance it up or down with a tad more accuracy. Thanks for this vid!
Great,
You are defiantly bad ass,,, I worked for many years at Pro Camera Repair in NYC. This mount made of simple materials is genius. My shop in the earlier 70s created some of the world 1st under water housings, the first helmet camera mount, as well as 1st ski mount hang glider mount on and on… of course I'm speaking of tye one and only Marty Forsher’s Pro Camera Repair shot 37 west 47th st. Skills like yours would have been greatly appreciated. Keep creating….
I noticed they were a little stiff at first, but normal use (and the weight of the camera and rig) will loosen them up. I didn't have to make any mods to the joints.
Had a thought - may try and use ball joint on its own first - then maybe add a bearing to that config. I think ball joint and universal might be too unstable. Thanks again for your superb video.
Thanks for noticing that. I've updated it in the parts list.
With the Traxxis joints, I found using the "can opener" side of a Swiss Army knife to work great for separating and placing the whole joint together.
This looks like a great build and it's exciting to see a cheap glidecam. I love your steadicam build and I use it almost all the time.
Beautiful daughters you have ! :) I will be a happy father next month too! :)
Thx for sharing, I will try to make it! Thanks!
Yep. Totally.
good..now i have all winter to try and come up with this,which looks light enough to take on a wilderness canoe trip.
Awesome diy steadicam vid, should try this for my next filming.Thanks from Japan.
These things are temperamental and need guidance when using. I don't use my thumb much, but do have to turn the handle often to keep it pointed in the right direction.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for telling me about this thefrugalfilmmaker!
@Woodenarrows Not sure, since I'm using the remnants of an old pair of Rollerblades found at a thrift store.
@mrhulot101 It's interesting, but I noticed that when you are following a subject, you pay less attention to how smooth the shot really is. The POV, however, has nothing to hide behind. I also noticed that the extra lift in my step makes it look very first-person-shooterish.
Hi! thanks a lot for the fine film. I have ordered the parts now and I going to build my first Frugal Floater! I got some nice tips from WSClater using two ballbearings for the pan. Thanks!
I can only confirm that it works with lighter cams. For a larger camera, it definitely needs a redesign to work properly.
Another great job Frugal!! Really enjoying your videos and fantastic tips and tricks!!
Thanks for posting!!
@nandolugofilms Any hardware store. They are the fender washers found in the parts list.
@Woodenarrows Roller blade and skateboard bearings are standard sizes so pretty much anything will work.
If using CPVC you will need to increase the diameter of the bearing just a bit, I used a few wraps of yellow teflon tape (yellow is thicker than white, but white works too). Bearings can also be pressed into standard 1/2' PVC fittings using a bench vise, but it distorts the end and it can't be removed.
I made an instant glidecam by taking the center post out of a broken tripod for my Panasonic AG-HVX200. I bolted the top of the mount down to prevent any wiggling which allowed me to still use the pan and tilt on the mount. The bottom of the post had a cap on it so I took the cap off and slide on a 2.5 lb. dumbell plate as a counter weight then put the cap back on. Took less than 5 minutes to make an it works perfectly.
I just made one of your other rigs, and this one is next on my project list! love your videos. thanks!
Now this is a Camera stabilizer ! Awesome .. Thank you
You sir and all your videos are simply amazing, thank you.
Now I use the free "Video4UA-cam" plugin for Sony Vegas. I think for this video I was using the MainConcept or SonyAVC mp4 encoder built into Vegas.
Wow, impressive homemade rig. Well done.
Thank you ! The focusing rail is a good idea ! Just ordered twice on ebay !
I use the Canon VIXIA HFS100 (shots of me and rig construction) and when you see that camera on the rig I'm using the Sanyo XACTI VPC-CG10.
That's where I get mine. I usually try Home Depot, Lowe's and ACE (in that order, according to frugal-ness).
@thefrugalfilmmaker: Love the vids! Easier way to whittle down the male end of the Traxxas joint: a course metal file available at your local dollar store, and your vice to hold it while you smooth it out.
That's how I plan to do it when I build this. I just ordered the Traxxas joints and the slider rail
@mr4y It would be trickier to operate, since the rig "floats" on a single point (the gimble). I would think a wider point of control would impede the range of motion.
I've had great luck with the Jonny Lee designed steady cam.
I only have one word, for your work.... wow....
@lukespinner711 It all depends on your needs. a FigRig is much easier to master, but is more "hand-held" looking. A Steadicam/Glidecam has more of a "floating" image, but has a steeper learning curve and more expense.
A DSLR version would need a redesign. This version seems to be only for smaller cameras.
Just completed my rig. In the process of balancing -___- but i'll get it. Nice ending, I think we all need more hugs :) THANK YOU.
If you look closely, there is a small semi-circular clip around the threads of the screw. Remove it with some needle nose pliers and the screw should come right out.
@quickpix123 Hmmmm... I'm not sure. It may need a redesign for larger cameras instead of just more counterweights.
Found Friction Tape at Ace Hardware, part number 90382. In fact, the package states it's for wrapping hockey sticks. It works great!!
Not sure if anyone has already said it, but at 8:05, the easiest way to do this is to put the u-joint part in a lathe and cut it down. Of course, that means you need to have access to a lathe ;) You can probably get away with mounting the part in a drill chuck to spin it, then use a knife/file to remove the material.
Either way, spinning the part while removing material will ensure concentricity and make the whole process easier.
YESSS! i've been waiting for scott's take on the merlin, can't wait to give this a try.
Hmmm...intriguing!
@thefrugalfilmmaker Have you thought about adding a shock absorber in there? When you're walking on pavement you can see slight vibrations with each footstep in the shot - although you probably won't see them unless you're looking for them.
Excellent work though, definitely something I'm looking at building!
hugga wugga bugga hugga. lol good stuff Scott!
@baherroth In theory, any camera should work with the proper counterweights. In theory.
Try Amazon UK.
Nowhere at the moment. Amazon is sold out, but should be getting more, soon.
oh! ive seen that macroslider rail before! some guy on cheezycam made a follow focus out of one!
@mybasicllc I imagine, but I've only tested it with my Canon HFS100 camcorder.
Nice! I need to make one of these! Very excited. Good Job Thanks.
I actually stop, take off my hat, and salute when your intro music kicks in :)
great vid as usual, very helpful and inspiring ;)
It should filter out running, though I haven't done a running test (yet).
@ashuntboy I tried using my favorite eBay ball head, which I really, REALLY wanted to work due to its simplicity. Sadly, it failed as a gimble, so I had to scrap it.
okay! Get it! I know that you have to turn the handle! Thats normal! But idont want to use my thumb to often because that causes vibration if you ar going.
I ordered the plate u used! Tomorrow it will arrive! I put the handle and the pipes together!
I will send you photos or video if i got ready!
Very steady..... Good work!
I think that is a nice design and I am going to try it with a lighter version for the GoPro. I would like something that I can make extreme movements with and I can see adapting a longer pole to it. Having the pole slightly forward so you don't hit the front balance, then I could drop it down fast in front or move it side to side. It would track faster than your body can move.
I'm gathering all the parts now. I'm very thankfull for this video.
So I subbed!
Great one, i just made this one for my JVC HD Everio cam and works well! :) Thanks for the video!
Nice. Congratulations!
Two Thumbs Up, from Brazil!
I recently purchased a Canon vixia HF m301. Great line of cameras just beautiful imahlfe quality. The only problem is I need a better computer to edit the avchd files.
Larger/heavier cams have not fared so well with this rig. Look for the Frugal Floater II in the near future which "should" be easier to balance and handle DSLRs.
Skipping the Quick connect seemed to make a difference, but I prefer the quick connect. I put a T PVC connection to replace the elbow half way down. Then added a few weights to the "T". It seems to have made a difference. I plan to change to a "T" at the bottom so I can add weights left and right. Maybe I should try it at the top behind the camera too.
I bought the bearings as you linked in the description box. They didn't fit the 1/2in cpvc. They actually fit 3/4 in cpvc. Just wanted to point that out in case someone else ran into the same issue.
now this is what im talkin about. cant wait to hit up home depot and get all the parts to build this thing
This is brilliant! I love it. Thank you for the ideas and tips.
Phenomenal vid and ingenious execution. Thanks.
You know it!
Awesome! Also I have to tell you.. I couldn't resist a giggle fit when you said handy knob.. Your voice goes high pitched at the end! :P 2:41
PLLEEEAAASSEEE make a glidecam style stabilizer! I've seriously been waiting soooo long for you to make one!
As I learned recently, *how you run greatly affects how much bounce is in your step. Point being, don't walk/run heel to toe. Toe to heel is how we're meant to walk anyway and this minor change in habit almost completely eliminates how much you move up and down. I tried this with a Fig rig and it worked nicely.
I tried a mini ball head for the gimbal, but it would not work right, so out it went.
Thanks. nice build.
I see. Thanks. I wonder if the dSLR would be better suited for the less fancy stabilizer rig he makes from pvc.
Thanks, man!
@desaad37 Pictures would be great! Send me a writeup about your experience with the rig(s) and I will happily publish them on my blog and link back to you.