Honestly one of the best videos I have seen on analysis of battery sizing for ham radio. Everybody gives theorytical useage but you also give REAL WORLD measurements. Thank You!
You're welcome. There's theory and then there's the real world. I prefer real world experiments. I'm getting ready to test CHA LEFS from Chameleon Antennas and I'm going to take the same approach. I can't deploy that antenna system using the recommended height and I don't have the appropriate feed line or RF choke. Well, what's the impact to deploying it with the gear I do have? We'll find out soon.
I don't have my radio set yet as the Club in Birmingham UK was closed for the Plandenic. Hoping to get a set up soon for listening, whilst I study for the licence, and learn Morse Code.
I just recently got a Bioenno Power BLF-1230A battery to hook my mobile 2m FM radio to when in the pickup. This way I don't have to mess with running wires from my truck batteries through the firewall (or worrying about possible trouble with the onboard computers). So far, so good. I intend to move up to portable HF operation in the near future and figure this 30ah battery should cover it all.
Just found this video and I'm glad I did. As a new operator, I'm looking to run my home shack fully off of Bioenno power. You answered a lot of questions regarding sizing and recharge cycle time. Thanks from you newest subscriber.
This is good stuff. There is "Read the Manual" and then there are people like me that can read the manual, but still have trouble connecting the dots. You've helped fill in some gaps.
Great video. Simple and straightforward. I've used SLA batteries in the past but now moved to strictly Lifepo for all my radios. Always, always, always keep an eye on amps and volts. I let a 20w HF radio get below 12V using SLA's and the radio locked up. All my SLA's are now used for emergency lighting and other non radio uses. Thanks. Jack K5FIT
Prefect timing that I found this! Just ordered a xiegu G90 radio, have a chamelion antenna, and are getting the final piece of the battery for a mobile setup!
In my opinion . The 300ma is standby. Rx of 500 would be when an actual signal is barking through the speaker and at a specific volume level. Love your videos. Rock on.
You're right about that. Some of the specs will refer to it as "squelched" (standby or no audio) as well. Even when I'm receiving audio, Yaesu still seems to be conservative with their numbers.
Thank you for the info! I'd gone with the 6ah Bioenno. It's worked well for extended recieve and a couple of hours of tx. The weight savings has been a life saver.
Having researched all kinds of different batteries, I finally decided to buy a Tracer Lifepo4 14amp. I only ever use 10w or less and I can operate unrestricted for a whole weekend. The weight difference is massive and although seen as expensive, I do not regret one bit spending out on it. Thank you for taking the time to share your advice...........
Thanks for putting the Tracer LiFePO4 on my RADAR. Wow, they are pricey! I like that that they are really light and are IP65 rated. Something to add to the todo list.
Thanks! I probably should have taken a bit more time to produce it rather than shooting it in one take. I had few more things that I wish I had mentioned. Cheers!
One of the things to keep in mind about batteries that may be used in emergency situations, especially situations that may last over 24 hours, is the recharge specification. Maximum solar power is only a few hours per day and generators take gas to run, and if grid power is on for a only a short time, it would be nice to be able to recharge batteries. I have several Bioenno LiFePO4 batteries, and they are good quality and a good value for the money. However, their specified maximum recharge rate is low compared with high quality AGM lead acid batteries or Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. Maximum recharge rate for a Bioenno BLF-1212A (12 Ah) is 2A, taking up to 6 hours to recharge. The maximum recharge rate for a Dakota Lithium 10 Ah is 10 A, meaning several of them could be recharged at once by running a 1 KW generator for 1 hour. For the best battery life, both brands should be charged at about 0.1-0.3 capacity rate. Meaning a 10 Ah battery should routinely be charged at around 3 A.
The 0.2c rate charge, or 2amps is just a suggestion to get the most life cycles out of the battery. That 12ah battery has a 30amp bms(says in the notes at the bottom of the page). So technically you can charge it at 1c if you'd like, you'd just lose some cycles. But in a pinch its perfectly fine.
This is a fantastically informative video and thank you very much. This is the only place I have found the information I need and in a way that is easy to digest and assimilate to my situation. Answered issues I was dealing with. Great work.
Honestly, I a hard time grasping some of the concepts related to amateur radio when first getting started. I found that in most cases, the hams make everything more complicated than needed. Simple explanations and language is my motto.
Best video that I have seen about these batteries. I just recently bought a g90 and purchased a Bioenno 4.5ah battery hopefully it last a few hours at least! 👍
What a great video. Have held off on buying batteries for portable operation specifically because I did not know which battery would be right for the radio. Sub earned!
Woot! Welcome to the channel. If you're not going man portable, go a bit bigger if it's within your budget. You'll have more time to join the air waves. 73's
This was a great video, I learned so much as I am just starting to look at POTA/qrp ops. I live in a very noisy area and am no longer able to operate from my home, so I will need to start going mobile. Thank you for this.
Great video Gaston. I have a QRP radio and I think I like your idea of 2 smaller batteries for redundancy. I was leaning towards the 4.5ah but I may have to do some additional pondering now. Thanks for taking the time to do your videos. 73 Also… thank you for sending me over to your friend Charlie at Red Summit RF. He has been a TON of help with my journey to learn CW!!! ~Mike W0MDE
Thank you. Charlie is great. It's a blast watching him operate. He's a great hiking buddy, too. Keep chewing on the one versus two batteries. Let me know which way you go.
A caution with running lithium batteries in parallel is they don't have the balancing circuit between them to ensure they are charged uniformly and discharge uniformly. Using them in succession is a great idea; it is like having a reserve gasoline tank.
I also have two small LiFePO 6Ah each for my FT-818 and for more fieldday than portable operations I have one 50Ah LiFePO as well and that’s used mostly by my FT-891. All batteries can be charged in field with 100W solar panel, what’s really great when on a longer outdoor activity. 73 - Stefan
I have been using a Dakota Lithium 10 amp hr battery in my go kit and a 23 amp hr. in my battery box. They both work great and I am a big fan of LifeP04. My solar charge controller is mounted in the battery box and is awesome for keeping things charged up.
Another excellent video. Always informational. So looking at a Yaesu FT-2980 consumption at 80W is Tx 15A just need to make sure the battery can handle that. Great info!
I have a 20AH AGM that works fine. I hook it to a battery minder every couple of days. Beware that chargers will inject a lot of noise, so unplug them when operating.
Good stuff - I love my bioenno (9ah) as well and was waffling between the 3 and 4.5ah batteries for QRP work. Pretty sure the 3.0 will be fine but you video reminded me to check the radio's specs. Thanks and have a good weekend!
I have wondered about the 3Ah version myself, but it has always felt a little too light in terms of capacity. I've been using the 4.5Ah models for almost two years with great success on every SOTA activation. But now that I am spending more time on FM at 25 watts with the FTM-6000R, the 6Ah version seems to be the perfect sweet spot of performance, size and weight.
One comment on the "simple math" for charging Bioenno LiFePo batteries - The manual says that the charger will begin at with a constant current charge and then shift to a constant voltage charge (which tapers the current into the battery after a certain point). The LED signal light changing from red to green does not indicate the battery is completely charged.
Sorry if I missed your point, but what woes it mean then when the light turns green? And would I need a ($50 ) in line volt meter like he showed to know when fully charged ?
It would be nice if someone did a video on not only how to size a Bioenno and Solar panel not only for a ham radio rig. BUT also the rest of the electrical equipment that you might use if you are out in the woods. Here is what I mean. You lay out a solar panel, connect it to an appropriate solar charge controller. Then connect that to the LiPo battery and them run the power poles to a power pole distribution block. You plug the rig into two of the connectors of the power block. You then also connect your: #1 laptop/tablet #2 cell phone. #3 Rechargeable Flashlight e.t.c Those are just three things to come to mind that I would be out camping with. So ideally the solar panel will keep the battery FULLY charged during daylight hours. The battery will provide current to all your equipment BUT will keep its full charge. Then when the sun goes down thing will run off the battery at night until the next morning when the sun comes back up. If that makes sense.
The 12ah bio can put out 20 amp bursts. I use it in my go box with the Yaesu ft2980r and Xiegu G90. I was using a 6ah and it wasn't giving me the power on my G90 for 20 watts. 12ah runs for days.
Excellent video so well presented and easy to watch. Just subscribed 👍🏻 and I don't do that lightly. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences. 👍🏻 hope to catch you on the bands one day. 73's DE M7FES 🇬🇧👍🏻🇺🇸.
You're very kind. Thank you and welcome to the channel. I'm just a guy trying to grow in the hobby and share some experiences along the way. 73 de KT1RUN
I switched over to those Bioenno batteries and for mobile rigs they work great. The thing to be careful of is running full duty cycle like FLDIGI. I got a 50ah LFP battery hoping that at 15 to 20 watts it would run my Icom 7300 on digital modes. It does not. I can talk on SSB all day on a 50ah LFP battery at 75 watts, but try a digital mode and after 2 or 3 medium length messages it's done. I can do a fair amount more with my Yaesu 857 but still have to be careful how long and how often you transmit a digital signal. I've done this with deep cycle RV batteries, AGM Batteries and the like...digital modes on base radios with a battery, even in parallel just doesn't cut it. Realistically I think the 7300 needs 16v to run it, but I don't think I've ever seen a 8v battery. The base station requires 13.8v to run, not 12v which is why the mobiles do better in that regard. Anyway, just something for folks to keep in mind, FM, SSB voice, you'll do great on a 12, 20, 30, 50 ah battery. Just be careful of digi modes on battery power!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I run digital modes very often, but only for short periods. It's usually a quick Winlink session or just sending a few packets for APRS. I haven't run into issues for short digi use. I'm starting to work with fldigi so I'll keep any eye on how the batteries perform.
@@TheTechPrepper Yeah, let us know if that works out for you! I feel like I've done something wrong but I've spent hours and dollars on RV deep cycle, marine, AGM and Bioenno on HF sending PSK, Contestia, etc...and on base radios so far none of them hold for more than 1 or two sends. RMS Express I don't think I've tried. My 857 has gotten me by on digi modes on battery but it'll drain it even connected to solar if you use it nearly constantly. Thanks for the video and look forward to your findings and tips!
@@chadlpnemt This is odd. I've never had an AC power supply, so all of my experience running digital modes has been running off batteries. No issues with packet (APRS, Winlink, BBS), fldigi (FM and HF), JS8Call, or FT8. How much power are you running and how long are your digital sessions?
@@TheTechPrepper I can listen all day long but start transmitting at 15 watts, again on my base radio, I get maybe two transmits and the power cuts out. On my 857 I can run much longer but the voltage drops to 10.9 or so during transmit. After the first 3 or 4 transmits.
I use an MFJ battery booster with ICOM 7300. That radio is VERY sensitive to supply voltage since not only the final amplifier transistors, but the driver stage operate directly from the battery. So if the battery is down two volts, the driver is down, the power amplifier stage is down. The IC-705 is less particular since only the final stage operates directly from the battery. Digital modes put a huge suck on the battery and their voltage will sag. Another reason for a booster.
@@arizonareport Howdy neighbor. I appreciate that. Most of the videos are filmed in the Tonto National Forest. You might enjoy my early videos on Summits on the Air (SOTA) as I climb most of the peaks in New River, Anthem and Cave Creek.
For the shack I use a 4 Ah charger with two 35 Ah sla batteries. I haven’t used my power supply except in Texas. I do like my 10 Ah Dakota lithium and my Bioenno 4 Ah charger. I will need a larger battery for my ft891. Thanks as always.
That's a good call getting a higher current charger. I have a 5A charger but wish I went with a 10A charger or larger quick charger for my 100Ah Battle Born battery that I wheel around as a portable power station. It has 3000 watt pure sign wave inverter. This thing buts my Honda 2000 generator to shame. The FT-891 is current hungry. Bigger is better for that rig. I'm going to add a DC distribution block to the 100Ah Battle Born battery station specifically to run the FT-891 and FT-2980R in the shack.
@@YayaOrchid i have harbor freight cheepy charger for the sla. While I have used the the bioeno charger for the sla, it can over charge them and lessen the life.
@@douglasvamateurradioandmore I see several chargers can you be more specific. I would greatly appreciate it. I saw a Viking 4 amp for $40 but not sure.
@@YayaOrchid that sounds about right. It's not my favorite, since I normally use lifepo4 batteries and will be going away from sla altogether. I will be going solar in the shack and when that happens I will likely go away from ac to DC chargers in the shack. When I travel, I will carry the lifepo4 charger for staying in a hotel.
Thanks! It's really straight forward. If you're not going portable and can afford it, it doesn't hurt to go a bit bigger in terms of capacity. I've considered some 20Ah models for the shack.
Can you charge the Bioenno battery with the AC to DC 2A/4A chargers while using the battery via the anderson plug? When running this as a vehicle mobile unit, are you running it on battery only or do you have vehicle battery connection as well as antenna feed line?
This was an awesome video. I am currently buying everything first before I put it all together. I went with the Yaesu FTM-6000 because it was the most simple way for me to go. I am still looking for a radio bag. What do you recommend for a good radio bag.
Im back to this video again. First, I love that you have never used a traditional plug in the wall power supply. I just gave mine to a new ham operator and since I had the bioenno felt good about that decision. Second, Im so confused about how to read the DC Powerwerx device. I wonder if you can make us a video on how to interpret that data. I realize the display is hard to see on camera.
Welcome back! I get a lot of grief for it. I do own a Yaesu FT-897D now that has a built-in A/C mains power supply...it feels like cheating. I'll add this video to the backlog as this is a really handy tool. 73's
Thank you. There was a bit more that I wanted to say, but it's probably a good starting point or at least food for thought for anyone not knowing where to start.
D.C. power can offer less ripple. Headway LiFePO batteries are a lot smaller, lighter, and more powerful. Starting with a low power drain on receive is another way, your batteries can deliver more also, whilst QRP.
I'd like to have the same portable power, but $700 + is ten times more than my mobile radio cost. A Honda generator would be more the way I'd go then. Maybe I'll go for just battery and AC charger. The $400 solar panel is way out of reach.
All my bags are built on two publicly available bags: the Helikon-Tek E&E pouch and 5.11 6x6 admin pouch. The Helikon-Tek bag is a tight fit, so I have modified two of them. I am actually in the process of design a bag purpose-built for mobile manpacks. The prototype is complete. I just need to find a good manufacturer. Search for "ARMLOLOQ" on channel page if you want to see the bags.
These are becoming increasingly difficult to find now for some reason. It's the Helikon Tek E&E pouch. I modified the one running the FT-818. The one holding the FTM-6000R is stock.
Great info! I'm a fairly new ham as well. I just got my first HF rig ft-891. I'll hopefully be building a solar generator and incorporate it to fit the radios! I am excited beyond words to start this journey! 73 God bless, Hopefully I'll catch you on down the log! KO4MWD
Welcome to the hobby! I always look forward to QSO's with you guys. I have an FT-891 and would recommend the 12Ah model as the minimum size given that it's a 100 watt rig. It is not fun lugging the FT-891+12Ah battery up a mountain, but I've done it several times.
@@TheTechPrepper I've tested with a 12ah and a ft-2980 (80w) drains the 12ah quick calling cq on 146.520. I'm hoping to get a 40mm can built with a 30ah battery for a main solar generator for portable comm ops
Great video and advice. I am yet to get into QRP HF sota. Was going to go for the 818 but think I will go the X6100 route. What is on the top of your Ft818 in the manpack? Motters M7TRS 🇬🇧 73 😎
Glad you found it useful. It's a protective frame from a company called ARMOLOQ. I have one on all my radios. It's the basis for my manpack builds. Here's the playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLZpc6PnzmzmEO_27iGSC6J0VGU5VM6_kn.html
I did a full video on these bags. I modified the Helixon Tek E&E pouch and ran the 5.11 6x6 admin pouch. Search for "mapack" on my channel page as I did a detailed 5-part series on manpacks. In fact, the next video will cover these bags.
Do you need fuses on the cable in case if the wires get shorted due to wet weather or damage? Is this a concern? The stock cable which comes with the radio has fuses on it.
Unfortunately, I have all my videos lined up for the rest of the year. The math is same for solar panels. Take the watts of your panel and divide by 12 (for 12v) and you end up with amps that it can generate per hour in full sun. For example, my 20 watt panel / 12v = ~1.6A. I get full sun where I live, but I still assume about 80% efficiency, so I will take 1.6A * .80 = 1.3A. In practice, I can charge my battery At 1.3 amps per hour. I don't typically use more than 1A per hour, so this panel is sized perfectly for me.
Great question. If your HT supports 12v charging all you need is a male-to-male barrel connector cable. I do this all the time with my older Yaesu FT-60R. For the new Yaesu FT-60's I use the same cable and connect it to the charging dock.
@@TheTechPrepper I am thinking of charging Lifepo 7ah battery with my Bluetti Solar generator, Battery has T-connector: Will barrel connectors to T-connector cable work? Or should I get a DC Charger and plug into outlet on generator?
I wonder if you’re only seeing 8amps because your running at 12V instead of 13.8V? I assume then your output is probably much less watts than the rated 50?
Im not seeing a current consumption for the Anytone at-578UVIII Plus in the manual just Operating Voltage 13.8V DC ±15% what do you suggest for this rig?
I'm confused on the weight of these batteries. I have a 20Ah power bank for my phone. It's 5V, so 100 Wh, and putting it on the scale with case and cable it's 0.8lbs. The bioenno 6Ah, 12V battery is 72Wh and is 1.4lbs. Why are they SO much heavier than a power bank for your phone?
Thank you, Grant. Batteries were a mystery to me until I became a ham and started to operate exclusively in the field. I'm glad others are finding it useful. 73 de KT1RUN
It depends on the meter. I found the Chinese knock offs to be unreliable and wildly sporadic on their measurements. I finally found the Powerwerx meter to be the most consistent option relative to its price point.
It's listed in the manual. I don't have this radio, but the manual says a minimum of 15A. So, look for a battery that allows a bit more continuous current. I would size it by 20% (18A continuous). I assume this is for max power.
@@TheTechPrepper first of all thanks for the reply. Yep I had downloaded the manual and saw that part so i sent a screenshot to some aliexpress battery sellers. Problem is I don't know what any of that means. So I need to look out for: voltage, amperage (which is capacity right) and what else? Then I just connect the radio wires directly to battery and it'll work?
I carry one in every manpack. I took two small automotive in-line fuse holders, added heat shrink to both ends of the wire and added Anderson Powerpoles. I rarely use it though. No problems so far.
@@TheTechPrepper I don’t either on the trail but do in the battery box experiment. Called Bioenno once and they didn’t think it was necessary. UA-cam screamed foul when I mentioned that in a live stream but Bioenno itself said “not necessary” so who knows.
@@RandomStranger69 Thanks. Glad you found what you are looking for. I did a manpack build for the FTM-6000R, so I just pulled that part from the list of items in that old video's description. Have a good one.
Love your videos. However I think working in W (kW) and Wh and kWh is far more useful than working in Ah. For example if you put on a power meter and work for say an hour and use 100Wh this gives you a better balance of usage than looking at instantaneous amp draw. Then if you have a 135Wh battery (10Ah) the math is easy. If you stick in Amps and Ah you get tied up in trying to extrapolate usage over time. Then when you throw in solar it gets worse. Now youre trying to mix Ah and W… if you have a 100W solar panel and you have a 135Wh battery and you out in good sun for 6 hours. You can even better estimate your run time. 100 x 70% (miss aiming, heat loss…. ) x 6 hours then you 420Wh of additional run time so long as you run your battery down to allow for that energy to be stored. Then you can calculate that you can run your rig for roughly 5-6 hours.
You make some great points for watt-hours, but the amateur radio community seems to have adopted amp hours as the standard way of communicating power requirements. My brain is hardwired for Ah instead of Wh, however, I'm a fan of whatever method others use to understand their power utilization. In my case, my swag estimation has worked well in the field. Thanks for a sharing a counterpoint.
@@TheTechPrepper Totally! old ways die hard. But here’s another example for ya where working only in Ah would kill a person! I’m build a portable repeater box. it has a hand held GD-88 (7.4v) with an attached 3Ah battery wired into a voltage converter thats set to 8v to pull form a higher voltage battery and has about a 15-20% loss from the converter but most of that goes into keeping the battery warm and saves on the next item, a 5W battery heater (12v) and a Lora transmitter (5v), an 8Ah 12 volt battery, 5W of attached solar (12v) and 30w of additional solar (12v) now things get sticky trying to calculate run time. However if I convert to Wh it gets much easier HT (-1.5W/h avg or 36Wh/day) Lora (-0.1W/h avg or 0.24Wh/day) Heater (dependent on temperature, but roughly -60Wh/day) Solar (+210Wh/day) Battery good for 96Wh That means I all I have to do is add up the + & -‘s and we’re good. Total of 96Wh/day of usage. This basically means that as long as the sun is shining even some one what each day I’m good to go for extended runtime. Worst case scenario, I get one full day of use. Also the battery heater doesnt run fully every day. Ironicly the clouder it is the less the battery heater runs. Also in the winter I attached another 100Ah Battery box. 1.2kWh of addational run time!
You are at 300 milliamps because you aren’t actually receiving anything. Measure again with traffic coming through your speaker or set squelch to listen to static. What’s the current draw now?
I'm not due what you mean by power bank. Most battery chargers are on the market are for 5v devices, not 12v. I have used a 12v battery, 3000mAh pack from TalentCell, but only for low power radios like the Yaesu FT-818ND (6 watts max).
I got 3 Bioenno batteries, the 6Ah, 15Ah and a 40Ah. I use the 6 and 15 with my IC-705 and the 40Ah on stand by just in case I lose power or doing something with my 7300. Another piece of gear to have is a Anderson Power Pole power strip. I picked one up from Amazon not to long ago, but haven't tried it out yet. Waiting on the weather to get better this spring and summer. If you got multiple devices to run, like a ATU or a power/swr meter, one can power all of it off of one battery instead of using multiple batteries to power individual pieces of equipment.
Good point. Power distribution is an absolute must for drawing power from multiple devices. Personally, I use a RIGrunner 4006 USB. It's in the shot behind me mounted to the wall. It has one fused input for your battery and 6 fused outputs. Both use Anderson Powerpoles. It also has two 5v USB output ports. It's pricey, but well worth it. The Buddipole PowerMini solar charge controller also provides power distribution. It has one input for your solar panel, one input for your battery, two outputs for connecting two devices, and one 5v USB port. Thanks again for calling this out. 73's!
DO NOT BUY BIOENNO! History: Bought 100 Amp Battery-Failed at 6 Years. Bought 2 Pure Sine Inverters-Both failed within Three Weeks.One of them failed THE FIRST DAY! Bought SEVERAL 40 Amp Batteries- 2 of which failed and you replaced them. Bought 2 20 Amp Charge Controllers 1 Failed. I believe you replaced that, but do not have the records to verify this. Yesterday, the SECOND 20 Amp Charge Controller Failed. Installed the new 30 Amp you sent me. We'll see what happens. 10 Amp Bioenno Charger now says new 200 Amp Battery if full. Surface voltage across Battery Leads is reading.13.37 Volts. I BELIEVE THIS BLF1220AS IS ALSO DEFECTIVE! WHAT-THE-%@@$#$#?! I'm very sorry, Kevin. This SEALS IT! Here is what I would like to do. A. Return EVERYTHING! Both Charge Controllers, Both sets of 50 Amp Jumpers, and BOTH Batteries. B. I want a Refund Check for $862.49, the current price of the BLF1210AS. I have lost faith in your products. Bruce A. Forster Show less Reply
I bought the LiFePo4 10Ah with 5 year warranty from Amazon for $29+ tax. It runs my TYT TH9800 for a week on receive/standby with about 10 minutes tx at 50 watts. It's beyond me why anyone thinks spending four times as much for Bienno buys them any more. They're all grade A cells and made in China.🤔
The transmit current specification probably assumes a 13.6 volt supply. Bienno batteries provide something like 12.8 and drop somewhat during usage. powerwerx.azureedge.net/productattachments/BLF-1220TS_LB__User_Manual_rev_08_04_2016.pdf
Honestly one of the best videos I have seen on analysis of battery sizing for ham radio. Everybody gives theorytical useage but you also give REAL WORLD measurements. Thank You!
You're welcome. There's theory and then there's the real world. I prefer real world experiments.
I'm getting ready to test CHA LEFS from Chameleon Antennas and I'm going to take the same approach. I can't deploy that antenna system using the recommended height and I don't have the appropriate feed line or RF choke. Well, what's the impact to deploying it with the gear I do have? We'll find out soon.
Great insights for me too! Loved it!
I don't have my radio set yet as the Club in Birmingham UK was closed for the Plandenic. Hoping to get a set up soon for listening, whilst I study for the licence, and learn Morse Code.
@@debbiecurtis4021 Good luck with your setup and welcome to the hobby.
I'm really glad I watched this before buying a power supply. Thanks man.
I just recently got a Bioenno Power BLF-1230A battery to hook my mobile 2m FM radio to when in the pickup. This way I don't have to mess with running wires from my truck batteries through the firewall (or worrying about possible trouble with the onboard computers). So far, so good. I intend to move up to portable HF operation in the near future and figure this 30ah battery should cover it all.
Just found this video and I'm glad I did. As a new operator, I'm looking to run my home shack fully off of Bioenno power. You answered a lot of questions regarding sizing and recharge cycle time. Thanks from you newest subscriber.
Welcome aboard! Glad it was helpful.
This is good stuff. There is "Read the Manual" and then there are people like me that can read the manual, but still have trouble connecting the dots. You've helped fill in some gaps.
You're very polite, Steve. You can use RTFM on this channel. ;-)
@@TheTechPrepper I learn best by doing. I have to have something to connect the dots to
Connecting the dots. Ham radio humour. Love it.
Great video. Simple and straightforward. I've used SLA batteries in the past but now moved to strictly Lifepo for all my radios. Always, always, always keep an eye on amps and volts. I let a 20w HF radio get below 12V using SLA's and the radio locked up. All my SLA's are now used for emergency lighting and other non radio uses. Thanks. Jack K5FIT
Prefect timing that I found this! Just ordered a xiegu G90 radio, have a chamelion antenna, and are getting the final piece of the battery for a mobile setup!
In my opinion . The 300ma is standby. Rx of 500 would be when an actual signal is barking through the speaker and at a specific volume level. Love your videos. Rock on.
You're right about that. Some of the specs will refer to it as "squelched" (standby or no audio) as well. Even when I'm receiving audio, Yaesu still seems to be conservative with their numbers.
Thanks for breaking all this down in the easy to understand way. I now understand Ahs and how to estimate the radio run time and recharge time.
No problem. I had a hard time, too. Glad I could make it simple. No fancy equations here, just simple multiplication and division.
Thank you for the info! I'd gone with the 6ah Bioenno. It's worked well for extended recieve and a couple of hours of tx. The weight savings has been a life saver.
The 6Ah is really the perfect compromise of size, weight and capacity for QRP rigs. Glad you're having a good experience with it.
Having researched all kinds of different batteries, I finally decided to buy a Tracer Lifepo4 14amp. I only ever use 10w or less and I can operate unrestricted for a whole weekend. The weight difference is massive and although seen as expensive, I do not regret one bit spending out on it. Thank you for taking the time to share your advice...........
Thanks for putting the Tracer LiFePO4 on my RADAR. Wow, they are pricey! I like that that they are really light and are IP65 rated. Something to add to the todo list.
This is probably the best vid about battery's for ham radio. Thanks mate!! 👍🏻
Thanks! I probably should have taken a bit more time to produce it rather than shooting it in one take. I had few more things that I wish I had mentioned. Cheers!
Thank you Sir. This is something I have been pondering for some time.
Glad to help.Take it easy.
One of the things to keep in mind about batteries that may be used in emergency situations, especially situations that may last over 24 hours, is the recharge specification. Maximum solar power is only a few hours per day and generators take gas to run, and if grid power is on for a only a short time, it would be nice to be able to recharge batteries. I have several Bioenno LiFePO4 batteries, and they are good quality and a good value for the money. However, their specified maximum recharge rate is low compared with high quality AGM lead acid batteries or Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. Maximum recharge rate for a Bioenno BLF-1212A (12 Ah) is 2A, taking up to 6 hours to recharge. The maximum recharge rate for a Dakota Lithium 10 Ah is 10 A, meaning several of them could be recharged at once by running a 1 KW generator for 1 hour. For the best battery life, both brands should be charged at about 0.1-0.3 capacity rate. Meaning a 10 Ah battery should routinely be charged at around 3 A.
good info, thanks
The 0.2c rate charge, or 2amps is just a suggestion to get the most life cycles out of the battery. That 12ah battery has a 30amp bms(says in the notes at the bottom of the page). So technically you can charge it at 1c if you'd like, you'd just lose some cycles. But in a pinch its perfectly fine.
Great explanation I really enjoy my Bioenno batteries for ham radio
‘73 N5PRK
Good choice!
This is a fantastically informative video and thank you very much. This is the only place I have found the information I need and in a way that is easy to digest and assimilate to my situation. Answered issues I was dealing with. Great work.
Honestly, I a hard time grasping some of the concepts related to amateur radio when first getting started. I found that in most cases, the hams make everything more complicated than needed. Simple explanations and language is my motto.
Best video that I have seen about these batteries. I just recently bought a g90 and purchased a Bioenno 4.5ah battery hopefully it last a few hours at least! 👍
Glad it helped. To run full power on the G90 consider upgrading to the 6Ah model. The 4.5 will work on lower output power.
@@TheTechPrepper will do! Thanks 👍
What a great video. Have held off on buying batteries for portable operation specifically because I did not know which battery would be right for the radio. Sub earned!
Woot! Welcome to the channel. If you're not going man portable, go a bit bigger if it's within your budget. You'll have more time to join the air waves. 73's
This was a great video, I learned so much as I am just starting to look at POTA/qrp ops. I live in a very noisy area and am no longer able to operate from my home, so I will need to start going mobile. Thank you for this.
Glad it was helpful! Local, man made noise is an excellent motivator to get people in the field. Good luck and enjoy.
Great video Gaston. I have a QRP radio and I think I like your idea of 2 smaller batteries for redundancy. I was leaning towards the 4.5ah but I may have to do some additional pondering now. Thanks for taking the time to do your videos. 73
Also… thank you for sending me over to your friend Charlie at Red Summit RF. He has been a TON of help with my journey to learn CW!!!
~Mike
W0MDE
Thank you. Charlie is great. It's a blast watching him operate. He's a great hiking buddy, too. Keep chewing on the one versus two batteries. Let me know which way you go.
A caution with running lithium batteries in parallel is they don't have the balancing circuit between them to ensure they are charged uniformly and discharge uniformly. Using them in succession is a great idea; it is like having a reserve gasoline tank.
I also have two small LiFePO 6Ah each for my FT-818 and for more fieldday than portable operations I have one 50Ah LiFePO as well and that’s used mostly by my FT-891. All batteries can be charged in field with 100W solar panel, what’s really great when on a longer outdoor activity. 73 - Stefan
I have been using a Dakota Lithium 10 amp hr battery in my go kit and a 23 amp hr. in my battery box. They both work great and I am a big fan of LifeP04. My solar charge controller is mounted in the battery box and is awesome for keeping things charged up.
I've heard good things about the Dakota Lithium's. 23Ah is a great size. Depending on the rig, that could last most of the day.
A really nice easy to understand presentation. Very helpful!
Thanks. I hope it proves helpful. I prefer simple explanations. Simple math for the win. Cheers.
Another excellent video. Always informational. So looking at a Yaesu FT-2980 consumption at 80W is Tx 15A just need to make sure the battery can handle that. Great info!
I have a 20AH AGM that works fine. I hook it to a battery minder every couple of days. Beware that chargers will inject a lot of noise, so unplug them when operating.
Good stuff - I love my bioenno (9ah) as well and was waffling between the 3 and 4.5ah batteries for QRP work. Pretty sure the 3.0 will be fine but you video reminded me to check the radio's specs. Thanks and have a good weekend!
I have wondered about the 3Ah version myself, but it has always felt a little too light in terms of capacity. I've been using the 4.5Ah models for almost two years with great success on every SOTA activation. But now that I am spending more time on FM at 25 watts with the FTM-6000R, the 6Ah version seems to be the perfect sweet spot of performance, size and weight.
One comment on the "simple math" for charging Bioenno LiFePo batteries - The manual says that the charger will begin at with a constant current charge and then shift to a constant voltage charge (which tapers the current into the battery after a certain point). The LED signal light changing from red to green does not indicate the battery is completely charged.
Sorry if I missed your point, but what woes it mean then when the light turns green? And would I need a ($50 ) in line volt meter like he showed to know when fully charged ?
@@teatonaz The charger instructions talk about the time required for a full charge. I am not near them at this time, so I can’t provide details.
I like the sticker idea to place on it!!!! You have great videos!
It would be nice if someone did a video on not only how to size a Bioenno and Solar panel not only for a ham radio rig. BUT also the rest of the electrical equipment that you might use if you are out in the woods.
Here is what I mean. You lay out a solar panel, connect it to an appropriate solar charge controller. Then connect that to the LiPo battery and them run the power poles to a power pole distribution block.
You plug the rig into two of the connectors of the power block. You then also connect your: #1 laptop/tablet
#2 cell phone.
#3 Rechargeable Flashlight
e.t.c Those are just three things to come to mind that I would be out camping with.
So ideally the solar panel will keep the battery FULLY charged during daylight hours. The battery will provide current to all your equipment BUT will keep its full charge. Then when the sun goes down thing will run off the battery at night until the next morning when the sun comes back up.
If that makes sense.
The 12ah bio can put out 20 amp bursts. I use it in my go box with the Yaesu ft2980r and Xiegu G90. I was using a 6ah and it wasn't giving me the power on my G90 for 20 watts. 12ah runs for days.
I run my FT-2980R off the same 12Ah battery works great even at 80 watts. That's interesting about the Xiegu G90.
Can you show how you hooked up the wiring for charging and then battery to radio
Exactly what I was looking for! Great video
Excellent. My kind of viewer.
Thank you for making this video. Does Bioenno make the harness connector that mates with your Yaseu power connector?
Excellent video so well presented and easy to watch. Just subscribed 👍🏻 and I don't do that lightly. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences. 👍🏻 hope to catch you on the bands one day. 73's DE M7FES 🇬🇧👍🏻🇺🇸.
You're very kind. Thank you and welcome to the channel. I'm just a guy trying to grow in the hobby and share some experiences along the way. 73 de KT1RUN
I switched over to those Bioenno batteries and for mobile rigs they work great. The thing to be careful of is running full duty cycle like FLDIGI. I got a 50ah LFP battery hoping that at 15 to 20 watts it would run my Icom 7300 on digital modes. It does not. I can talk on SSB all day on a 50ah LFP battery at 75 watts, but try a digital mode and after 2 or 3 medium length messages it's done. I can do a fair amount more with my Yaesu 857 but still have to be careful how long and how often you transmit a digital signal. I've done this with deep cycle RV batteries, AGM Batteries and the like...digital modes on base radios with a battery, even in parallel just doesn't cut it. Realistically I think the 7300 needs 16v to run it, but I don't think I've ever seen a 8v battery. The base station requires 13.8v to run, not 12v which is why the mobiles do better in that regard. Anyway, just something for folks to keep in mind, FM, SSB voice, you'll do great on a 12, 20, 30, 50 ah battery. Just be careful of digi modes on battery power!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I run digital modes very often, but only for short periods. It's usually a quick Winlink session or just sending a few packets for APRS. I haven't run into issues for short digi use. I'm starting to work with fldigi so I'll keep any eye on how the batteries perform.
@@TheTechPrepper Yeah, let us know if that works out for you! I feel like I've done something wrong but I've spent hours and dollars on RV deep cycle, marine, AGM and Bioenno on HF sending PSK, Contestia, etc...and on base radios so far none of them hold for more than 1 or two sends. RMS Express I don't think I've tried. My 857 has gotten me by on digi modes on battery but it'll drain it even connected to solar if you use it nearly constantly. Thanks for the video and look forward to your findings and tips!
@@chadlpnemt This is odd. I've never had an AC power supply, so all of my experience running digital modes has been running off batteries. No issues with packet (APRS, Winlink, BBS), fldigi (FM and HF), JS8Call, or FT8. How much power are you running and how long are your digital sessions?
@@TheTechPrepper I can listen all day long but start transmitting at 15 watts, again on my base radio, I get maybe two transmits and the power cuts out. On my 857 I can run much longer but the voltage drops to 10.9 or so during transmit. After the first 3 or 4 transmits.
I use an MFJ battery booster with ICOM 7300. That radio is VERY sensitive to supply voltage since not only the final amplifier transistors, but the driver stage operate directly from the battery. So if the battery is down two volts, the driver is down, the power amplifier stage is down. The IC-705 is less particular since only the final stage operates directly from the battery. Digital modes put a huge suck on the battery and their voltage will sag. Another reason for a booster.
Fabulous video and very helpful to a newer ham. Thank you. Subscribed.
Glad it was useful. Welcome to the channel. I'm from AZ, too. Cheers!
@@TheTechPrepper Cool! I am located in Anthem, AZ. Will be tuning in for more of your content.
@@arizonareport Howdy neighbor. I appreciate that. Most of the videos are filmed in the Tonto National Forest. You might enjoy my early videos on Summits on the Air (SOTA) as I climb most of the peaks in New River, Anthem and Cave Creek.
Where did you get the pack you have your setup in? Seems like a great little setup.
Great video. Thank you for the info!
For the shack I use a 4 Ah charger with two 35 Ah sla batteries. I haven’t used my power supply except in Texas. I do like my 10 Ah Dakota lithium and my Bioenno 4 Ah charger. I will need a larger battery for my ft891.
Thanks as always.
That's a good call getting a higher current charger. I have a 5A charger but wish I went with a 10A charger or larger quick charger for my 100Ah Battle Born battery that I wheel around as a portable power station. It has 3000 watt pure sign wave inverter. This thing buts my Honda 2000 generator to shame.
The FT-891 is current hungry. Bigger is better for that rig. I'm going to add a DC distribution block to the 100Ah Battle Born battery station specifically to run the FT-891 and FT-2980R in the shack.
What is the brand and model for the 4ah charger?
@@YayaOrchid i have harbor freight cheepy charger for the sla. While I have used the the bioeno charger for the sla, it can over charge them and lessen the life.
@@douglasvamateurradioandmore I see several chargers can you be more specific. I would greatly appreciate it. I saw a Viking 4 amp for $40 but not sure.
@@YayaOrchid that sounds about right. It's not my favorite, since I normally use lifepo4 batteries and will be going away from sla altogether.
I will be going solar in the shack and when that happens I will likely go away from ac to DC chargers in the shack. When I travel, I will carry the lifepo4 charger for staying in a hotel.
Really helpful explanation--it seems easy.
Thanks! It's really straight forward. If you're not going portable and can afford it, it doesn't hurt to go a bit bigger in terms of capacity. I've considered some 20Ah models for the shack.
Sounds like a good idea, as the battery could be swapped out for portable operation, giving you more flexibility. Be quite a load to carry, though
nice video sir, just ordered my 12ah for my ft- 891. i hope i ordered the right connections for the radio :)
Thanks. You'll need a 4-pin Molex to Anderson Powerpole. This is what I use: powerwerx.com/hf4-molex-to-powerpole-adapter
@@TheTechPrepper Got it ordered. Thanks my friend. ✌️
Can you charge the Bioenno battery with the AC to DC 2A/4A chargers while using the battery via the anderson plug? When running this as a vehicle mobile unit, are you running it on battery only or do you have vehicle battery connection as well as antenna feed line?
Verry good video, exactly what i needed 👍
Perfect. Then it was worth making this morning before work. Glad you found it useful.
Nice video! You taught me that the battery I bought is a little too big but not by much so I did okay 😂 thanks!
It's better to have a little extra capacity. Glad to hear it was useful.
This was an awesome video. I am currently buying everything first before I put it all together. I went with the Yaesu FTM-6000 because it was the most simple way for me to go. I am still looking for a radio bag. What do you recommend for a good radio bag.
Great info, THANKS. ...Alan in 🇨🇱
just getting into this, such great info on every level
Welcome. Battery sizing is not rocket science, but some make it out to be. I'm glad that this simple explanation helped.
Im back to this video again. First, I love that you have never used a traditional plug in the wall power supply. I just gave mine to a new ham operator and since I had the bioenno felt good about that decision. Second, Im so confused about how to read the DC Powerwerx device. I wonder if you can make us a video on how to interpret that data. I realize the display is hard to see on camera.
Welcome back! I get a lot of grief for it. I do own a Yaesu FT-897D now that has a built-in A/C mains power supply...it feels like cheating. I'll add this video to the backlog as this is a really handy tool. 73's
In addition, I have a 817. I’ve been looking at the 4.5 battery you have. It’s lighter weight to get 2x 4.5 AH battery than one single 9 AH battery.
Very informative, I need to buy a battery for my FT857 and the info provided really helps. Thanks. Dave KE6EX
Great topic for a video
Thank you. There was a bit more that I wanted to say, but it's probably a good starting point or at least food for thought for anyone not knowing where to start.
D.C. power can offer less ripple.
Headway LiFePO batteries are a lot smaller, lighter, and more powerful.
Starting with a low power drain on receive is another way, your batteries can deliver more also, whilst QRP.
Does Headway sell full assembled batteries or are they still only selling the individual cells?
I'd like to have the same portable power, but $700 + is ten times more than my mobile radio cost. A Honda generator would be more the way I'd go then. Maybe I'll go for just battery and AC charger. The $400 solar panel is way out of reach.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thx! Very useful clip!
Glad it was helpful!
What bags were you using to hold your radios and batteries and all the other accessories? I really like them! Also great video man
All my bags are built on two publicly available bags: the Helikon-Tek E&E pouch and 5.11 6x6 admin pouch. The Helikon-Tek bag is a tight fit, so I have modified two of them. I am actually in the process of design a bag purpose-built for mobile manpacks. The prototype is complete. I just need to find a good manufacturer. Search for "ARMLOLOQ" on channel page if you want to see the bags.
Please remind me what those bags/pouches that you are using for manpacking those transceivers are.
These are becoming increasingly difficult to find now for some reason. It's the Helikon Tek E&E pouch. I modified the one running the FT-818. The one holding the FTM-6000R is stock.
Great info! I'm a fairly new ham as well. I just got my first HF rig ft-891. I'll hopefully be building a solar generator and incorporate it to fit the radios! I am excited beyond words to start this journey! 73 God bless,
Hopefully I'll catch you on down the log!
KO4MWD
Glad your having fun!😁😁
Welcome to the hobby! I always look forward to QSO's with you guys. I have an FT-891 and would recommend the 12Ah model as the minimum size given that it's a 100 watt rig. It is not fun lugging the FT-891+12Ah battery up a mountain, but I've done it several times.
@@TheTechPrepper I've tested with a 12ah and a ft-2980 (80w) drains the 12ah quick calling cq on 146.520. I'm hoping to get a 40mm can built with a 30ah battery for a main solar generator for portable comm ops
I'm just starting my Ham journey, but I know what 73 means. I tell my son 88 every night now. He just rolls his eyes.
Great review! Have you thought about CW for prepping and a lighter load?
Yes. That's my plan for 2023.
Great video for ham radios but I’m GMRS and looking for essentially the same information for my radios. Do you have any recommendations?
The exact same principle applies to GMRS.
A Icom 718 uses approx 8 amps transmitting at 20W SSB. That would mean a 16ah battery would last me 2 hours at 100% duty cycle? Am I doing that right?
Great video and advice. I am yet to get into QRP HF sota. Was going to go for the 818 but think I will go the X6100 route. What is on the top of your Ft818 in the manpack?
Motters M7TRS 🇬🇧 73 😎
Glad you found it useful. It's a protective frame from a company called ARMOLOQ. I have one on all my radios. It's the basis for my manpack builds. Here's the playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLZpc6PnzmzmEO_27iGSC6J0VGU5VM6_kn.html
@@TheTechPrepper will have a look thank you. Great work 73
can one battery handle multiple devices? if so how do you calculate or crunch the numbers to determine if its ok to do so.
A 12Ah battery will provide 12 amps for one hour. So you should be able to RX at 500mA for about 24hours,
Correct. That's the rough math.
What are your thoughts on an all in one power supply? Jackery etc, and it looks bioeno makes one
What is your packs brand and size? Love your videos!
I did a full video on these bags. I modified the Helixon Tek E&E pouch and ran the 5.11 6x6 admin pouch. Search for "mapack" on my channel page as I did a detailed 5-part series on manpacks. In fact, the next video will cover these bags.
Do you need fuses on the cable in case if the wires get shorted due to wet weather or damage? Is this a concern? The stock cable which comes with the radio has fuses on it.
It's always good practice to run an inline fuse for safety. For the field applications, I never do in practice, due to the extra cable a fuses needed.
Thanks
No problem
Can you do this same video for solar panel sizing
Unfortunately, I have all my videos lined up for the rest of the year. The math is same for solar panels. Take the watts of your panel and divide by 12 (for 12v) and you end up with amps that it can generate per hour in full sun. For example, my 20 watt panel / 12v = ~1.6A. I get full sun where I live, but I still assume about 80% efficiency, so I will take 1.6A * .80 = 1.3A. In practice, I can charge my battery At 1.3 amps per hour. I don't typically use more than 1A per hour, so this panel is sized perfectly for me.
Really useful video! Many thanks, 73, Jonathan M0XXJ
My pleasure. Your welcome.
Great video. What would be needed to recharge a HT with one of these batteries?
Great question. If your HT supports 12v charging all you need is a male-to-male barrel connector cable. I do this all the time with my older Yaesu FT-60R. For the new Yaesu FT-60's I use the same cable and connect it to the charging dock.
@@TheTechPrepper thank you for the information looks like I need to dig in the manuals again.
@@TheTechPrepper I am thinking of charging Lifepo 7ah battery with my Bluetti Solar generator, Battery has T-connector: Will barrel connectors to T-connector cable work? Or should I get a DC Charger and plug into outlet on generator?
Does the buddipole do the same measurements as the powerwerx? Can you charge via solar while using the radio on the same battery?
Yes, you can charge and use the battery at the same time.
I wonder if you’re only seeing 8amps because your running at 12V instead of 13.8V? I assume then your output is probably much less watts than the rated 50?
My icon 2100 says 13.8 volt. Can that 12v lipo power it?
Or do I need a qrp radio?
Thanks from WW7CR, 73s
You are very welcome, Carlos.
Im not seeing a current consumption for the Anytone at-578UVIII Plus in the manual just Operating Voltage 13.8V DC ±15% what do you suggest for this rig?
Take a look at the Dakota 10Ah LiFePO4. It will do 20A continuous. This is what I use my AT-578. That battery is a great price, too.
I'm confused on the weight of these batteries. I have a 20Ah power bank for my phone. It's 5V, so 100 Wh, and putting it on the scale with case and cable it's 0.8lbs. The bioenno 6Ah, 12V battery is 72Wh and is 1.4lbs. Why are they SO much heavier than a power bank for your phone?
Excellent discussion outlining an important and so-often misunderstood topic. Well done and thanks. VK4JAZ
Thank you, Grant. Batteries were a mystery to me until I became a ham and started to operate exclusively in the field. I'm glad others are finding it useful. 73 de KT1RUN
Do you use a BMS? Great job! 73s
These Bioenno's all have built-in battery management systems (BMS) to protect the cells.
How accurate is the meter though? I’ve heard on many occasions that they’re fairly inaccurate.
It depends on the meter. I found the Chinese knock offs to be unreliable and wildly sporadic on their measurements. I finally found the Powerwerx meter to be the most consistent option relative to its price point.
@@TheTechPrepper the Powerwerx looks be nothing more than the Chinese knockoffs with their name in it. I could be wrong though.
Gaston can you charge your battery while you are operating?
Yes. I do this on every video where I am running my solar panels in field.
Hi there. What battery specs are required for an anytone at578 manpack? Could you please give some advice?
It's listed in the manual. I don't have this radio, but the manual says a minimum of 15A. So, look for a battery that allows a bit more continuous current. I would size it by 20% (18A continuous). I assume this is for max power.
@@TheTechPrepper first of all thanks for the reply. Yep I had downloaded the manual and saw that part so i sent a screenshot to some aliexpress battery sellers. Problem is I don't know what any of that means. So I need to look out for: voltage, amperage (which is capacity right) and what else? Then I just connect the radio wires directly to battery and it'll work?
Do you use a fused line between the battery and the radio (didn't see one) or think the BMS is sufficient?
I carry one in every manpack. I took two small automotive in-line fuse holders, added heat shrink to both ends of the wire and added Anderson Powerpoles. I rarely use it though. No problems so far.
@@TheTechPrepper I don’t either on the trail but do in the battery box experiment. Called Bioenno once and they didn’t think it was necessary. UA-cam screamed foul when I mentioned that in a live stream but Bioenno itself said “not necessary” so who knows.
What adapter do you use to connect the Bioenno battery to the Yaesu FTM6000R?
Powerwerx REM-T Connector to Powerpole Connector 18 in.
@@TheTechPrepper You're a beast! thank you!
@@RandomStranger69 Thanks. Glad you found what you are looking for. I did a manpack build for the FTM-6000R, so I just pulled that part from the list of items in that old video's description. Have a good one.
Love your videos. However I think working in W (kW) and Wh and kWh is far more useful than working in Ah. For example if you put on a power meter and work for say an hour and use 100Wh this gives you a better balance of usage than looking at instantaneous amp draw. Then if you have a 135Wh battery (10Ah) the math is easy. If you stick in Amps and Ah you get tied up in trying to extrapolate usage over time. Then when you throw in solar it gets worse. Now youre trying to mix Ah and W… if you have a 100W solar panel and you have a 135Wh battery and you out in good sun for 6 hours. You can even better estimate your run time. 100 x 70% (miss aiming, heat loss…. ) x 6 hours then you 420Wh of additional run time so long as you run your battery down to allow for that energy to be stored. Then you can calculate that you can run your rig for roughly 5-6 hours.
You make some great points for watt-hours, but the amateur radio community seems to have adopted amp hours as the standard way of communicating power requirements. My brain is hardwired for Ah instead of Wh, however, I'm
a fan of whatever method others use to understand their power utilization. In my case, my swag estimation has worked well in the field. Thanks for a sharing a counterpoint.
@@TheTechPrepper Totally! old ways die hard. But here’s another example for ya where working only in Ah would kill a person! I’m build a portable repeater box. it has a hand held GD-88 (7.4v) with an attached 3Ah battery wired into a voltage converter thats set to 8v to pull form a higher voltage battery and has about a 15-20% loss from the converter but most of that goes into keeping the battery warm and saves on the next item, a 5W battery heater (12v) and a Lora transmitter (5v), an 8Ah 12 volt battery, 5W of attached solar (12v) and 30w of additional solar (12v) now things get sticky trying to calculate run time. However if I convert to Wh it gets much easier
HT (-1.5W/h avg or 36Wh/day)
Lora (-0.1W/h avg or 0.24Wh/day)
Heater (dependent on temperature, but roughly -60Wh/day)
Solar (+210Wh/day)
Battery good for 96Wh
That means I all I have to do is add up the + & -‘s and we’re good.
Total of 96Wh/day of usage.
This basically means that as long as the sun is shining even some one what each day I’m good to go for extended runtime. Worst case scenario, I get one full day of use. Also the battery heater doesnt run fully every day. Ironicly the clouder it is the less the battery heater runs. Also in the winter I attached another 100Ah Battery box. 1.2kWh of addational run time!
I bet this battery would be amazing running with the x6100
Yep. These are perfect to drive the full 10 watts on the X6100.
You are at 300 milliamps because you aren’t actually receiving anything. Measure again with traffic coming through your speaker or set squelch to listen to static. What’s the current draw now?
👍
Any safety concern?
Where you get your bags at nd what kind are they?
I have links in the description in my last two videos on the Manpack Series (Part I and II). They are the Helikon-Tex E&E and 5.11 6x6 admin pouch.
hello, can we use power bank for rig mobile as a power supply
I'm not due what you mean by power bank. Most battery chargers are on the market are for 5v devices, not 12v. I have used a 12v battery, 3000mAh pack from TalentCell, but only for low power radios like the Yaesu FT-818ND (6 watts max).
I got 3 Bioenno batteries, the 6Ah, 15Ah and a 40Ah. I use the 6 and 15 with my IC-705 and the 40Ah on stand by just in case I lose power or doing something with my 7300.
Another piece of gear to have is a Anderson Power Pole power strip. I picked one up from Amazon not to long ago, but haven't tried it out yet. Waiting on the weather to get better this spring and summer. If you got multiple devices to run, like a ATU or a power/swr meter, one can power all of it off of one battery instead of using multiple batteries to power individual pieces of equipment.
Good point. Power distribution is an absolute must for drawing power from multiple devices. Personally, I use a RIGrunner 4006 USB. It's in the shot behind me mounted to the wall. It has one fused input for your battery and 6 fused outputs. Both use Anderson Powerpoles. It also has two 5v USB output ports. It's pricey, but well worth it.
The Buddipole PowerMini solar charge controller also provides power distribution. It has one input for your solar panel, one input for your battery, two outputs for connecting two devices, and one 5v USB port.
Thanks again for calling this out. 73's!
The solar palel sources current it does not draw any current.
BioenNO
Once = #
DO NOT BUY BIOENNO!
History:
Bought 100 Amp Battery-Failed at 6 Years.
Bought 2 Pure Sine Inverters-Both failed within Three Weeks.One of them failed THE FIRST DAY!
Bought SEVERAL 40 Amp Batteries- 2 of which failed and you replaced them.
Bought 2 20 Amp Charge Controllers 1 Failed. I believe you replaced that, but do not have the records to verify this.
Yesterday, the SECOND 20 Amp Charge Controller Failed. Installed the new 30 Amp you sent me. We'll see what happens.
10 Amp Bioenno Charger now says new 200 Amp Battery if full. Surface voltage across Battery Leads is reading.13.37 Volts.
I BELIEVE THIS BLF1220AS IS ALSO DEFECTIVE!
WHAT-THE-%@@$#$#?!
I'm very sorry, Kevin. This SEALS IT!
Here is what I would like to do.
A. Return EVERYTHING! Both Charge Controllers, Both sets of 50 Amp Jumpers,
and BOTH Batteries.
B. I want a Refund Check for $862.49, the current price of the BLF1210AS.
I have lost faith in your products.
Bruce A. Forster
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I bought the LiFePo4 10Ah with 5 year warranty from Amazon for $29+ tax. It runs my TYT TH9800 for a week on receive/standby with about 10 minutes tx at 50 watts. It's beyond me why anyone thinks spending four times as much for Bienno buys them any more. They're all grade A cells and made in China.🤔
The transmit current specification probably assumes a 13.6 volt supply. Bienno batteries provide something like 12.8 and drop somewhat during usage. powerwerx.azureedge.net/productattachments/BLF-1220TS_LB__User_Manual_rev_08_04_2016.pdf