Welding and Machining a Hardened Steel Rack | Rack Restoration | Arbor Press Restoration
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Today as we continue or work on the arbor press, we're restoring its well-worn rack with a combination of techniques, including some time on the welding table and the milling machine. We're already getting a lot of use out of the awesome Kearney & Trecker 4H Horizontal Mill that we showed you a few videos ago - we hope you enjoy seeing it action again on another project!
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That was bloody well thought out and done! I love the use of a grinding wheel on the horizontal mill to finish it. Never seen that on any other machining channel ! I can't wait for the next episode lol
More to come. Thank you.
Excellent!! Ray Stormont
Thank you
I tried this same technique on a South Bend drill press quill a couple of years ago. Some teeth were broken. Except I used a mig welder and a dremel with a grinding wheel to shape things. Let's just say Vanover's methods worked better.
Lol. If MiG is all I had I would have done the same. My method worked but with lots of difficulty
Best UA-cam video of how to ruin milling cutters I have seen
Might help to learn what proper speeds and feed rates are.
Thank you
I agree. I think he was guessing on what a rack actually is. He changed the profile and pitch. Good luck to him.
A2 should be ground, "The book" says it is not machinable. The only reason he got away with it at all is the allow dilution from the 4140 (I'll bet anything) rack. He really never had any pure A2 .
💪 Happy Saturday!
Thank you
Good day!
In my experience with similar project, I would run my face mill at a slower rpm faster feed rate and a depth of cut of .020.
I think you did well considering the result.
God Bless ❤
Thank you.
Beautiful shots !
❤
Thank you
That's pretty cool. Like you say might have been easier to start over but sometimes you just want to learn a bit.
Yeah it would have but live and learn lol
You did such a good job
Thank you
Nice job.
I think that it will work great.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great day.
Thanks
Always a bonus when you get to learn without trashing the part. I have a job pending that is similar but you cannot buy the part and it is a gear. My approach will be to anneal it and then weld and machine it and then redo the hardening. On the list but not yet a priority.
Good luck man
Sorry, but as a degreed welding engineer of over 40 years in the business I say Dan is right. I have never even heard of using air hard as a build up wire, and I'd bet a dollar to a doughnut that rack is 4140,,,,,,.-At the speed and cyclic rate of an arbor press the is zero point no reason to hard face at all anyway, Toghness is what you need. - Check the Young's Modulus and you will see are not going to buy yourself a thing with A2 other then broken gear teeth= You would have been money ahead using 8018 stick wire and calling it good. - What you have made yourself is a glass gear. - - Take a piece of A2 that has been heated red and .left to air cool and put it in a vise and smack it with a 2 pound hammer. - Do the same to an equal size piece of 4140. ,,,,,, Make a jig and slow bend them and you will get the same result.
One more time, there is a reason nobody makes A2 gears,,,,,but there are tons of 4140 gears. 8018 would have given you very adequate alloy pick up if yo want to heat treat it,,,,,,The you could have just used 4140 TIG wire. ----- Just who told you to use A2, anyway? Even S-7 would have been better.
Trst me, With that glass gear you are the one that will need the luck
Nice work
Thanks you
Excellent job Sir.
Thank you
When your just building up extra material you wanna try and maintain a perpendicular angle pointing 10 to 15 degrees in the direction of travel.
Just keep your wire laying in the pool, just push addition filler in, pause and repeat, this'll easily allow you to not get your pool to hot as you can easily keep adding wire faster until you start to feel some resistance as you push it in.
Ok thanks for the tip
It will be interesting to see how the pinion engages with the rack, the thinner teeth will mean having to engage at a deeper setting which could result in the tip of the pinion engaging the root of the rack before the PCD is engaged. Hope it works for you. Thanks for posting, stay well 👍
Yeah. Stay tuned for more updates on the project. Overall the tooth width is wider than the worn section I started with. The tooth width is smaller than the two end teeth but thicker than the smallest worn tooth before. More importantly all the teeth are consistent width except first and last.
Awesome video. I'm very impressed with your abilities and the jobs you take on. I noticed you never used any coolant or oil. Is that the way you usually cut your steel?
Depends it makes it hard to video that’s the main reason
I'm no machinist but wouldn't flood cooling be a good idea idea?
Yeah it would
Flood cooling doesn’t make for a very good video
Awesome spark show! Who needs a surface grinder! LOL 🤣 Came out perfect. Well done. What was the brand tig filler wire you were using?
Blue demon A2 rod
Nice work. But why are you climb milling at 2:02? Also, the speed on those big cutters seems high. I haven't done a lot with A2 but the sparks are interesting. In The Handbook, A2 is listed as really high carbon steel (1%) with 1% moly and 5% chromium. The orange sparks usually indicate carbon and the sparkles indicate steel. Molybdinum burns yellow-green and Chromium burns white. You can see all of those colors if you pause and go frame-by-frame (use comma and period).
Your correct
Was that a rack from an Arbor press? Looks like its from an Arbor press.
Yes it’s a section from a larger project. An arbor press restoration
GOOD LORD .
Lol
Wow... no protection of that poor old horizontal mill ways while grinding. In fact, blowing the grit right toward them. Good job.
Thanks
Machine was throughly cleaned before traversing over the ways. And after the job rubber cover added.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairI think wayneec369 was being very sarcastic
Don't you wish you had a shaper!
I do but it’s not up and running yet
DO YOU NEED TO RE HARDING IT ARFTER YOU HAVE RE GROUND IT FROM WELDING .
Yes you do
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair THANK YOU .
No, Other then to totally wrong alloy for the build up there is no need to harden an arbor press rack and pinion. You would not see any wear at all on an arbor press in 200 years of common shop service.
Buying a new piece would be cheaper
Yes it would
I don't get the logic behind everything in this video, and it was hard to watch.
Thanks for your opinion
didt know you could grind on a mill
Me either lol