BMW E92 M3: DIY Change Spark Plugs & Save $600!!!
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- Опубліковано 29 січ 2018
- In this video we run through the steps involved with replacing the spark plugs in a BMW E92 M3.
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This is the best S65 spark plug DIY video I've seen so far. Thorough, shows every step in the correct order; perfect for someone like me that needs a visual idea of how the process will go before tackling it. My plugs are due, tomorrow I'm gonna pick up some spark plugs and get it done. Thanks for making the video!
My quote today from the dealership for new plugs: $1022!! This was after my $160 oil Change. When I drove away the warning light came on stating the oil was over-filled. Took it back and they had forgotten about the 2nd drain plug in the oil pan!! They drained that and said all was OK! Thanks for the video though. Very helpful and I think I'll be tackling this myself and will be cussing on those back 2 plugs!
You got this. Just take it slow. Thanks for sharing the insane quote!
These days dealerships are the main cause for new cars breaking down in the long run due to mechanics botched job and incompetency but mostly just a don't care attitude and skipping as many corners as possible. This is only the case in Usa, due to us society being completely ffed up by wrong moral values such as greed, jealousy and egocentrism.
Even though my spark plugs are replaced under warranty, you just saved me that $700 plus when the time comes 👍🏻
A tip : watch series on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching a lot of movies these days.
I drive a corolla but still appreciate watching these videos to better understand how easy DIY is on Japanese cars. Great tutorial, handy to know there’s thorough reviews out there when I eventually upgrade to something with more power
Great info man especially for the plugs in the back. I will be doing mine in the next few days
Great stuff I replaced mine today under this videos guidance....I had all the tools but it was tricky to get pass side closest to cabin but persistence was key. Excellent video!
Good job. Glad to hear it!
Great DIY. Gives a novice like myself confidence to tackle this job on my M.
Was definitely concerned about accessing those rear plugs.
Thank you! Having the right tools makes all the difference. I am sure you will have no problem. Good luck!
Agree, would’ve been nice of him to actually record the difficult parts tho. 🙄
@@marlowt2 yeah, i agree he skimped too much on the difficult parts.
Im gonna save this video and go back to it when I have purchased my m3 in the future!
Let us know when you do! I have daily driven mine for about six years now. You wont be disappointed.
@@autobytes007 great video!! just curious, I drive my car to work (10mins one way, 80% highway) and been averaging 14mpg, does that mean something wrong with my engine? or pretty normal considering the engine just warmed up and im already at work lol
Hard to say. When I used mine as a commuter it was a 20mi trip, mostly highway, but took 40min due to traffic. I drove it like a grandma on those days and averaged 20mpg. 10min is a short drive. 14mpg giving it the beans seems normal or close to it.
There is no need to take the big next to windscreen plastics off. Absolutely no problem to take the plugs out with all in place.
For the plugs at the rear ALL YOU NEED IS A 150 mm extension. I DID NOT use any other adaptors .. no. that 150mm extension on the plug socket is all you need .No swivel socket. No swivel adaptors..nothing. On top of that you can get your torque wrench perfect.
To get them out...same thing. On the way out...separate the extension from the socket with the plug on it.
Your torque wrench through all those extension and angle adaptors is not right. The torque can be affected.
Still ... you have the best video diy for the m3 spark plugs. Cheers
Thanks, mate. I appreciate the constructive criticism.
I did it without removing them as well. Just the airbox and unbolting the expansion tank was enough. No special tools, but I certainly used extensions and swivel.
It makes sense why this costs so much at shops... I know this was done slower for learning purposes but they’re are toonnnnssss of nooks & crannies, push here, pull there, pop this, unscrew that. I did this on my 428i .. certainly less complicated than this beauty, great video!
not as much as you think but i'll concede all DIY i have seen on this job for this engine follow a slightly different approach for the rear two sparkplugs.
Thanks for the DIY
Thank you. Got my sub.
I took the white plastic cover off, there are a bunch of wires in there , probable took a screw out her and there and where able to move a harness that was in the way to pull the coil, that’s for the passenger side rear one, only tough one. Also taped extensions and sockets as sometimes they came off after the new plug was in or the socket did not come off the plug, start again. The one piece socket linkage extension in the video is the way to go to prevent that. Second time I changed plugs I took the plenum off which make everything easier and you can clean the throttle bodies, the plenum is easier then you think, hard was only the plastic connector on the drive side on the back of the plenum, maybe my hands are to big. In my opinion this engine likes new plugs, I do it every 20k miles now. Hope that helps
Awesome man, thanks for sharing. I will keep that in mind next go around.
Just wanted to say I got this done today following this video! I was able to just use a flat head screwdriver and a pry tool on the coil packs. No damage, no issues. But the combination of wobble and elbows and extensions you showed is absolutely critical!
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Great video thanks
you went into enough detail my friend. awesome job! will reference for my M3 :)
Thanks, Jordantastik!
Great video
I was quoted $1650 for plugs and coils and a separate quote of $1600 for thermostat and water pump replacement. Located in NJ .. if it was summer or had a garage I'd definitely would try these DIY vids
Jesus. Stealerships earn their name. The biggest problem with car owner ship is by far dealer rip off. You can wait next summer, this is not a job you need to do at exactly +/- 5k miles.
Best instruction vid on this job... coil puller isn’t really needed though, just use a flat head screwdriver
Thanks, I appreciate that.
well, it seems to depend who did your previous sparkplugs before, if the rubber boot at the coil bottom pinches it can be stuck real bad, and you can snap the coil plastic head with a screwdriver (people have done it), but even if you do that you can still re-use the plug. I recommend using a Bicycle flat short wrench 16mm you can find it at REI stores for $5, the brand is Spark. It has a hole at the base of wrench jaw. No need for that overpriced extractor tool.
Well Done Sir
Thanks, mate!
Awesome. Ty!!
This video was awesome. I just did mine and this was an incredible help. Question though. did you use anything special to push the #8 and #4 coil packs back in? I pushed like crazy on them but I don't feel like they clicked down as far as the other ones that were easier to push on.
Thank you, Chester. Nothing special just push like hell.
The way the airbox was removed was completely unnecessary. Just remove the two bolts on the right side and loosen the clamp on the left side, then pull the whole thing straight out.
Agree you dont need to remove the airbox lid at all just remove enitre airbox as a whole unit
Is the magnetic spark plug socket 5/8 with 3/8 driver?
Well done. You could have gone just a little bit into your shoe lace, extractor tool technique. I will attempt to do this DIY using a bicycle flat 16mm wrench that cost me $5 instead of that overpriced extractor tool. The wrench is no more than 3-4 mm thick and solid iron with a hole at the center of the jaw if i need to put a shoe lace I also can. And it is small enough to fit in there. The wrench brand is Park and is sold at REI stores.
Your engine bay is in serious need of cleaning, i recommend P21S engine bay cleaner which does not leave plastic dry and is very effective without using harsh chemicals. I own a E92 M3 as well.
Great video, thanks. It has always been concerning to me, doing the two aft cylinder located spark plugs. Your video helps a lot in that respect. Did you use any dielectric lubricant before you put the igniters back on?
@ualdrivr, thanks for the comment. I hope your project worked out. To answer your question no I did not.
Thank you thank you thank you.
One comment.....you mention torque at 22 ft lbs.......shouldn't it be 22 nm?
I believe the spec is 30nm which equals 22 ft-lbs. The plug itself should have a torque spec.
great video! thanks for that. just bought my first M3, and probably will replace the spark plugs soon so it really helps.
quick question, will you recommend replacing the coils while doing this? mine has 146xxx miles, which it runs great but each coil is like $250!
Only replace the coils if you need to. If you have misfires/possibly very rough idle.
Zico Balliram none of the above. Probably will do just the plugs.
@@asafavraham2040 Yes it's definitely a lot cheaper. Read my comment below as well. I know this because I also own an E92 M3.
Just a quick question, do you mind if I ask how many miles you changed your spark plugs at?
My understanding is that they should be done every 37k miles. My first set was done at 27k miles by the previous owner when I bought the car. The car had about 69k miles on it in the video. Don’t let it go that long. Every single plug was toasted.
Size of the elbow ?
When did you know that you need to change your spark plugs? Do you go by mileage or did you have hesitation during ignition?
Combination of milage and feel. I didn't have any misfires but the car didn't feel as fresh as I remembered. The previous set had been in there for 42k miles. I think the service manual call for every 37k miles.
+autobytes whats the model or part# for those spark plugs?
NGK (4471) LKR8AP Laser Platinum Spark Plug. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MU5LSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extensions don't change torque but swivel sockets do. What's the point of using a torque wrench at 22 lb*ft when you're only really torquing them to maybe 15 ft*lb. And yes, ft*lbs.
No anti-seize on the plugs?
Good question. NGK recommends installing the plugs dry, without anti-seize. The plug already has a coating that reduces corrosion resistance from moisture and chemicals. From what I understand the anti-seize can also lend to over tightening.
I have question, how are the coils numbered? Is 1-4 from front to back on the driver side or the passenger side?
1-4, front to back, passenger side. Hope this helps...
Standing in front of your car it should go as followed.
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
1&5 being at the front.
@@autobytes007 thank you so much, i needed to change my coils position 2 and 3 so that mean the 2 in the middle of the passenger side got it
Very informative video!
What Plug Socket are you using? The swivel head seems like a huge plus
Thanks, Chong. I will check on the exact make of the socket and let you know tonight. Just about any swivel that is meant to remove plugs should do the job.
@@autobytes007 any updates? I plan on doing this next weekend so I'm tool gathering now :)
Sorry I forgot about your question. I used the GEARWRENCH 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket.
@@autobytes007 Thanks! Purchased
Side note: if you ever replace your Throttle Body Actuators, I would love to see your DIY video!
I am hoping that does not happen anytime soon but will definitely make a video when it does.
Great video! I'm assuming they don't need to be gapped?
No, sir. Good to go out of the box. Doesn't hurt to check them though. Mine got beat to hell during shipping. Thanks for watching.
@@autobytes007 Gotcha. Any chance you'll do a video of replacing your belts anytime soon? Just picked up a 2011 E92 6MT w/59k. She's been well taken care of, but coming up on 60k. Your videos are right in line with what I'm thinking of doing for a 60k tune up. Filters, plugs, diff/trans fluids and belts. Probably upgrade the rod bearings at the next oil change (~63k) in the Spring. What are your thoughts on that job? Been quoted $2300 parts/labor with the upgraded BE bearings and all. Seems like doing these other DIY jobs the savings will just go right into that...which I guess works out.
@@danmac247 I don’t have belts in the queue right now but if it comes up I will definitely document the experience. Congratulations on your purchase! Sounds like you got a good one.
Rod Bearings: That’s a good question that keeps me up at night. I don’t have any immediate plan to have them done but I do think about it often. The money you will save doing front brakes, plugs, and filters yourself will cover more than half that quote. As for documenting a DIY on the job. Who knows. Maybe I’ll sack up and do it. Stay tuned.
@@autobytes007 Yeah, she's a beauty. Space gray over black, Carbon fiber roof, manual, ZCP, etc. Flew to Texas and drove her home to VA. Took her to Summit Point track day the following weekend with her temp tags. Super fun.
There are some good DIYs on m3post.com, but it still seems like an intense job. I really try and stay away from internal engine components when it comes to DIY work, but then again, I did rebuild my damn VANOS among other things in my old E46 ZHP...
@@danmac247 Don't get carried over by the RB overblown fever. That company you mentioned BE bearing (started by a couple of opportunists m3 forum members) is using fearmongering on purpose to sell you bearings you don't need. The truth is that those engines that spin a bearing and seize are as much on factory than replaced bearing. It makes no difference one way or the other. There are quite a few E92 M3 now with over 180k miles still on their factory bearings. The engine is aluminium and missing iron sleeves to make it more rigid and less thermal expansion dependent. Alumium cylinders and steel pistons do not expand at the same rate with temperature causing the issue. You do not need to ever replace RB. If you do you waste money. if you engine must fail it will no matter what you do, but that's only a small % and as time passes less and less M3 will fail since the one that must already did.
Good DIY. Now for a DIY on how to clean your engine bay 😏
absolutely recommend P21S cleaner. It is a bit pricy but no harsh chemicals, it will not leave those black plastics look white being attacked by acid and it is powerful and works. All you need is one of those cylindrical brush with PVC hairs to agitate after spraying then let it sit 5 min and rince, my E92 M3 engine bay looks new. And trust me i tried other product before that they failed.
I think I’ll leave this for the dealer. 😄
FYI it’s 17 ft lb/ 23nm of torque. NOT 22 ft lb! That would be a little over.
Hi @Willhgf, thanks for commenting. I have seen those specs also but went with the spec on the spark plug box and contacted NGK to confirm. I’ll be doing the job again on this car in about six months so I’ll definitely let everyone know good or bad how everything goes.
@@autobytes007I’ve done it the way per BMW says and have had no issues. I’m about to do mine again too.
man, super helpful, but wait, dealer used the OEM plugs, right? So the cost double on plugs.
You are correct. The consensus online would suggest that there is no noticeable difference. I normally go OEM for everything but could not justify it on this. Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your project!
You can buy OEM plugs from dealer and do it yourself too
Where did you buy the coil puller
Amazon. www.amazon.com/Division-DM-E9X-001-Red-Ignition-Pulling/dp/B01GZ3XZQG/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=e92+m3+coil+puller&qid=1575486427&sr=8-2-fkmr2
you don't need it, buy a bicycle 16 mm flat wrench with a hole a the base of the jaw from REI for $5. Does the job.
im here because dealer quoted me 2200 lol
Wouldn't the job be much easier with intake airbox off?
Hi kyrix1, I pull the intake air box at about the 5:50 mark. Is this what you are talking about? Let me know.
Ah, I meant the whole airbox covering ITBs at the very center.
Now I got you. It might make the job easier but really the job is easy as it is. There was minimal cursing during this effort.
Jeez, how many miles were those plugs in there?
About 42K miles.
@@autobytes007 I have 37k on mine and slowly preparing to do this. I already have all the tools needed.
Is it really $600 bucks for BMW to change ur spark plugs?
That is what my local dealer quoted me.
Yep, my BMW dealer just quoted me $625 (2.5 hours x $250/hr). To be fair, my service advisor told me to be on the lookout at the beginning of each month for monthly promotions, like last December where they have had ~50% labor rates.
I went Midas to get my spark plugs and ignition coils done for $600 dollars runs like new
It’s actually 16.9 ft lbs (23 NM). Not 22 ft lbs. You will over tighten the plugs that way
Hi Charlie, thanks for the comment. I remember this coming up when researching the job. NGK suggested 22/30 and to install them dry but I have seen the parameters you are suggesting. Would the 16.9/23 apply to a wet installation? I'm no expert just a weekend warrior who has done this a few times without issue.
@@autobytes007 that’s interesting! I installed mine dry, but I’m not sure on a wet install. I was just going off what it said on the plugs. Makes sense that NGK might recommend something a little different, I’ve found quite a few recommendations from companies that supply parts for BMWs and they recommend different values than BMW does. I’d be inclined to follow their lead 👍🏼
Michael Frick: Well done, except for one thing: Please mention the use of anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads. Super important.
Hi Michael, thanks for commenting. Most modern day spark plugs do not require anti-seize. The NGK plugs used in this application feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver- or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs should be installed dry, without the use of anti-seize.
Why don’t you remove the big ol ass strut bar out of your way it will make it easy 🤔🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
The rear passenger and driver coil plugs were a bitch. I cut my hands up doing them
I feel sorry for anyone whos watchig this, they are spark plugs people!! If you have to watch a video on basic mechanics, you should proably get the local BMW dealer to do it. Save yourselves a stripped head.
this video is very helpful. Get bent.
Was able to do coil and plugs on my 325i. Had to follow the instructions in a manual. If you can't do basic work you might as well declare yourself a soy boy.