Introduction to the Olympus OM-2N (OM-2n), Video 1 of 2
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Olympus revealed the OM-2 to the world as a prototype at Photokina in 1974. The OM-2 arrived, over its life, in three key varieties -- the OM-2, the meter-improved OM-2n, and the OM-2s. Of the three, the OM-2n represented the best combination of features, functionality, and reliability.
Built around an innovative, comprehensive system and a cutting-edge metering system, the OM-2n provided photographers with a meter the likes of which remains unmatched even in 2014 -- 40 years after the prototype's unveiling. It is in no way hyperbolic to say that this camera has the best light meter ever fitted onto a camera.
This video presents a general camera overview and aims to explain some of why the OM-2N remains a significant and great camera. The second video presents details on how to do various things with the camera.
Video 2 link:
• Introduction to the Ol...
Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:07
Camera Overview: 0:28
Model's History: 5:20
Camera Feature -- Top: 7:45
Camera Feature -- Front: 11:30
Camera Feature -- Back: 13:10
Camera Feature -- Bottom: 13:44
Camera Feature -- Inside: 14:16
Aging your OM-2n: 15:37
Notes: 16:56
Camera Don'ts: 19:45
Pleading Desperately for Love: 21:58
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The most beautiful of all camera to date. Love it. Olympus got a winner with this one.
I agree. This consistently makes my top five best cameras ever made list. It's superbly designed and engineered.
I've had an 0m2n for well over 30 years and I love it. Despite having owned a Nikon F4s, Canon AE1 and others, the Olympus is still my go-to film camera. With the exception of the small prism 'bulge' it's exactly the same size as a Leica M6. Even with all the digital trickery of the modern age, there's still something magical about 'real' photographs with negatives.
Absolutely. The OM-2N is fantastic.
Thanks! Just picked up an OM-2 for my first camera, this helped me get to know it ✌🏼️
Thank you! The OM-2 is pretty amazing. Olympus did a great job with them.
This is my favourite camera, I have four of them, plus an OM4T. The only downside is metering for ISO slower than 12, but I just manually meter for that type of film, putting the needle at the deflection I have found works. The auto OTF exposure is very interesting and even does a good job with B and W film with contrast filters. I even shot a roll of Rollei IR film through a 715nm filter and the OTF metering actually worked very well, easily as well as metering manually, using the filter factor, and bracketing.
The OM series are my favorite film slr cameras.I have small hands so their size is perfect for me.Also having the shutter speed dial at the lens mount works real well for left handed people.The OM2 and other auto exposure OM cameras continue to meter during exposure so if the light changes while the shutter is open it will adjust for it.This is when the shutter speed is 1/60 or slower since that is when the entire shutter is open at once.
M Poole Yup. And the best part is that because it metered the light reflecting off the film, it metered highly accurately.
Alongside my OM-1, thats the one camera I truly love.
Wonderful review (both videos.) Thanks.
+Matteo Prezioso Good choices! The OM-1 is one of the cameras I'll be getting to this year as I scale back on camera manuals and focus on other types of photography videos. They're both pretty fantastic cameras.
OM-2s are just amazing, I love mine!
I agree. It would make my top five list of best cameras ever made. I'd rank it alongside the Pentax 6X7, Canon A-1, and Nikon F3.
David Hancock How would you rate the Nikon FE2 and Nikon FE, Thank You??!!
Well, I haven't ever gotten my hands on a working FE or FE2. Their electronics, when they fail, area death knell for the cameras. The same may be true for the OM-2N, but I haven't encountered a non-functional OM-2N yet. That may just be luck of the draw.
My friends who have FE and FE2 bodies absolutely love them. I am told the FE2 is one of the best cameras Nikon ever made.
Were it me, I would pick an OM-2N. They're a bit less expensive, have a stupendous lens selection available, and have better light meters than the Nikons.
Thanks so much! You've been a major help and I truly appreciate it.
The OM2n is a superb little camera. If your looking for a compact, brilliantly built film camera.. Get the OM2n
It on my top 5 SLR's, the other 4 are: Nikkormat FTn, F2, F4, Spotmatic SP. All brilliant for different reasons.
Good top 5. I just picked up an F4 the other day. I'm waiting impatiently for it to arrive.
David Hancock I know you won't be disappointed, It's superb. It's the F4 I have, not the F4s.. With the grip, it's just too big.
It's a big lump of a thing, but surprisingly well balanced and comfy to hold.
I'm yet to purchase any AF lenses for it. I'd be keen to watch a video from you about that if you plan to use AF that is. I find them pretty noisy and rather cumbersome.. Damn Nikon for gelding The G- series. Those with an aperture dial would have been great for we F4 users :)
Just bought this and couldn't be happier. I now own the OM-1 and OM-2n which is perfect... if I get into a bind with a battery situation, I can just use the OM-1 and guess at exposure or use my iphone app light meter. But if I'm street shooting and there's a fleeting moment, having aperture priority (which I used to look down on as an amateur type thing which it absolutely is not) I have the OM-2n. The astrophotography thing sounds really cool too. Might go out tonight with my tripod and get some shots. Great review! Love the olympus OM's
***** The OM2N is a great camera for street photography. For the OM-1, you can get an A76 adapter of eBay for about $10.
David Hancock I've been using wein cells for the om-1. They seem to work fine. I just meant... if shit hits the fan and I have no batteries for either camera, at least I can shoot the OM-1. Between the OM-1 and OM-2n... I'm very happy with my film setup. Then mirrorless Fujifilm xt-1 for my digital. Liking my setup right now. Thanks for the vid.
***** That's a pretty good setup. Both cameras are really fantastic. I just ordered a replacement part for my OM-1 today so that I can use it for a bit and make a video later this year.
David Hancock Nice!! looking forward to the new vid. (and those zuiko lenses... forget about it. As good as anything out there... well save the zeiss lenses on my contax G1... but pretty damn good.)
Nice channel, with index and references. Great
Francis Zerbib Thank you. Take great photos!
Just to thank you - long after the event - for an excellent intro the OM2n. I've had it since new but it's been long neglected because of a move to digital photography. I'm excited to be back to film although my old darkroom equipment is past it's use. Looking forward to part 2. Any suggestions black and white film would be welcome. I'm currently using an Ilford HP5 + with 400ISO.
Thank you and that's fantastic! For B&W film, HP5+ is a good choice. It's honestly hard to find a really bag B&W film any more. All the Ilford films are great and I like the Foma/Arista/Ultrafine 100 ISO films, too.
@@DavidHancock Thanks, David. I'll try your recommended film. Gerry
Just picked up one of these from a bloke on LetGo for $25 with 50mm f1.8 and Vivitar 70-205 f3.8 zoom. Gorgeous little camera.
Dang. That's an amazing deal.
thank you for this man, great intro, answered all the things I was curious about. love this camera
Thank you!
Great video!
got it for $30 canadian with the 50mm f1.4, flash, filters, flash cable , camera case and vintage neck strap. meter is also working with battery in it. i guess the camera was made in 1972 coz it says on the back " s72 5". thank you for the info. it is now displayed in my cabinet.
+dq regina That's a great find!
Just snagged one of these for a good price, supposedly in excellent condition, but without a lens. Trying to snag a couple lenses now, although I do have a JC Penney 135mm f2.8 I can use in the meantime.
Nice! These are great cameras.
David, I hope you don't mind but I'd like to ask you your personal opinion between two different 35mm cameras. I am looking to purchase a new 35mm camera to use professionally and I have been torn for some time between the Olympus OM-2n and the Nikon F3HP. I know it's hard to answer the question, "Which is better" as it depends on who you ask. That's why I am simply asking, in your personal opinion, which would you lean toward? Thanks very much
ƒingersonmyhand I never mind helping people pick a camera, so thank you for asking.
Well, picking between an F3 and a OM2n is sort of like being asked to pick between beef wellington and sous vide veal with a pan sear. So before I can answer directly, It will help yo know what type of photography you want to do.
If you want to do even photography -- concerts, and so forth, then the OM2N is better since it has superior low-light performance and very nice fast lenses, and it's lighter and smaller which helps in a crowd.
If you're doing macro or telescopic work, the F3 works better because of the removable eyepiece.
For low-light work like morning and evening architectural shots, the OM2N is better due to the more accurate meter.
If you want to do street work, the OM2N is better due to the lighter weigh, smaller size, and prevalence of great lenses for street work (fast and wide.)
For sports, it's six one way and a half dozen the other. Both have nice telephotos, but the Nikon's will be cheaper. In general, Nikon lenses are less expensive than Zuiko lenses, but I think that the Zuiko lenses perform better and handle more intuitively in fast-paced situations.
All that said, if you want to do weddings, fashion, portraits, landscapes, and architecture, really, a 35mm camera is probably not the best choice. For any of these you really want to go medium format (and bigger than 645.) A Pentax or Mamiya 6X7 is the best option for these (and most common.) A 6X6 SLR like a Kowa or Norita is a good choice, but they're mostly collectors pieces now and are hard to find (and stupidly expensive.) A 6X6 Kiev or Pentacon might a cheaper 6X6 SLR, but they lack the expandability of the above-named 6X7 systems. THe Mamiya systems also have 645 backs and, I think, 6X6 backs if you want to shoot other aspect ratios.
Let me know what type of work you want to do and what some of the settings will be. I might be able to say yes or no for sure on the OM2N and F3 or throw out other ideas to muddy the waters with.
David Hancock David, I really appreciate all of this info. This was very very helpful. You kind of already answered my question. I'm in that last category you mentioned: weddings, fashion, portraits, and landscapes are exactly what I am interested in shooting. You pretty much gave me the answer I already knew but didn't want to believe. I have been researching this for months.I've heard many people say that there is no such thing as professional 35mm. Then I've heard other people say that is not true. I have been shooting film for about 5 years, mainly as a hobby on 35mm.I want to take it to the next level now but most of the medium format cameras I have looked at are pretty expensive. You're right though... I'll just have to keep looking for a good deal or just save my money and purchase one later. I'll take a look at some of the ones you mentioned above. Seriously, thanks so much for your help.
Yeah, that can be a bitter pill. The good news is that the Mamiyas are the lest-expensive 6X7 bodies right now. I forget if the RB has a meter or not (the RB and RZ 67 are two of the last cameras I plan to do as I wind down the video manual series this year.)
I actually just lost an RB67 auction this weekend. The camera and 90mm lens (43mm equivalent in 35mm) went for $202.49. It was complete and usable kit. So you figure that was $101 for the camera and lens each, that's a pretty decent price for a medium format kit.
Where Pentax beats Mamiya is, I think, in lens speed. Most of the Mamiya lenses are f4-ish and f2.8 for some. Pentax has a stellar 105mm f2.4 which is as sharp as my 77mm FA Limited. Imagine that over a 6X7 negative and you're looking at huge image quality with stunning depth of field and out of focus area characteristics.
You could go 6X6, and a 6X6 TLR can be really cheap, but that leave you no options for portrait orientation. That's why I jumped to the 6X7 (which also enlarges perfectly to most common print sizes.)
So, long and short of it, yeah, the medium format is the way to go and it will be rewarding. Totally worth saving for.
David Hancock I was actually pretty surprised at the reasonable prices the RB67 are going for on ebay. I think I am pretty much set on finding one of those. Like you said, a Pentax would be ideal but it may just not be in the cards for me right now. Time will tell, my friend. You've been a huge help and I thank you.
You're very welcome. Take great photos!
Hello! Nicely wrapped video. I personally own an Olympus OM-2N. I thought you might appreciate knowing that I referenced your video in one playlist I created on my channel. Nice work! Let's stay in touch!
Thank you!
That's awesome...
I recently got into photography and my first camera is the om-2n and the film rewind switch doesn’t stay flipped. I think the camera still works as long as I hold it down it still rewinds. I think when I first loaded it I didn’t load it properly so I contacted the seller and they sent me a second one. The second camera’s rewind switch works better and stays horizontal but the glass inside is quite a bit dirtier. Is it better to keep the first one or is the rewind switch actually broken and I’d be better off cleaning the glass inside the second camera?
Cleaning the inside isn't hard. That's going to be one of the videos I release in the next few weeks. For you the simplest might be to take the focusing screens out of both and clean them with a brush (do not use any cleaning fluids) like a little lens brush. Then use some lens tissue and leans cleaning fluid to clean the mirrors. A rocket blaster or similar should get ride of any of the particles on the prism.
I cant seem to post pictures here. Do you have a facebook page?
So the om2 doesnt have a film plane indicator on the top?
I don't have one to check right now, but that's possible, yes.
nice
Thank you.
Do you know what happens when the camera is off and the shutter is released? What is the difference in a photo taken in off and a photo taken in manual (on) with the same settings and everything? Thank you for these videos by the way. Very helpful and informative.
Thank you!With manual, you have the full range of shutter speeds and the camera will fire at the one you select. In auto, the camera selects it based on the aperture setting on your lens.
When the camera is off, you only have a single shutter speed that looks like it's around 1/60th, regardless of your shutter setting.
@@DavidHancock -- Actually, Maitani designed the camera so that in "OFF" mode, the OM-2 and OM-2n will still deliver an accurate "off the film" auto exposure in light conditions that would require 1/1000th second down to about 1/60th second, with slightly longer exposures, though still in tolerance. At light levels that would require an auto exposure longer than 1/60th second, the shutter will close only slightly longer than 1/60th second, but it will close. He demanded that the camera be made to be instantly useable, even if the camera was otherwise "OFF".
Remember, there must be film in the camera (or a similar substitute) to reflect light into the camera's silicone blue cells that control the actual auto exposure, and there must be a lens attached.
Hey man, I've had an issue with my 2n's metering system... Basically, the meter is "locked" in the ISO 100 position. So, whenever I lock the wheel at iso400 for example, it'll still be metering for iso100. No matter what iso i select on the knob, the metering will not change/ recognise a switch. I was wondering if you had even heard of this issue?
Cheers,
Zach
Curious. My first inclination is that the dial isn't being set correctly. It's wonky. In fact, when I went to adjust the ISO on my OM-4 the other day (for the first time in two years), I had forgotten how to do it. So make sure that you both set the ISO and rotate the dial to neutral.
@@DavidHancock yep, i checked that but to no avail ..:(
It recognizes when exposure comp is on, but doesn’t register any change in the iso dial :/
@@zachariea Sounds like the dial connection is damaged, unfortunately.
Hi I just got one of these. However when I look into the view finder it is very blurry. I have good eyesight so it's not a problem with my eyes. Is there a diopter button on the olympus om 2n?
ThePiXelLama Let's troubleshoot. There's no diopter adjustment built into the camera, but it did have diopter eyepiece attachments. Those lenses were designed to fit into the eyecup, so you'd know if one is on your camera.
Tell me a bit about how you're using the camera. Is there a lens mounted on it? If so, which lens? What are you focusing on and is it blurry throughout the entire focusing range?
You mentioned the hotshoe. Up until the OM-3/4, which had the TTL adapter as well as the hotshoe integrated, those were separate. While it's true that the OM-1/2 hotshoes ttl adaptors won't work with the OM-1n/2n, there were two kinds of types you could put on your OM-1n/2n: The hotshoe (shoe 4) to put the flash directly on the camera, and the ttl adapter type 4, which opened up an entire world of flash photography (up to nine flashes, fully controlled by the camera).
I admit that Olympus' flash options are largely a mystery to me. I hadn't even heard of the TTL adapter until you mentioned it.
I've been following your channel lately coz i acquired 2 olympus om1. one doesn't have an MD mark and the ASA dial is all white and black. i'll attach some pictures. just curious if the one i have is uncommon. thanks.
+dq regina I'm not sure if it's common or uncommon, but the MD would indicate the ability for the camera to mount the motor drive. My Om-1 has the MD and the yellow and white ASA dial. Does yours have the motor drive connection on the underside?
The video you sent me a link to is marked as private, so I couldn't view it.
Which is better, the Olympus om2n or the Canon AE-1? Cant decide which one to take on my trip. I cant take both, cant really afford enough film for both.
Karmen Smith OM-2N, without hesitation. I think that the OM-2N is one of the five best 35mm film cameras ever made. It's built better than an AE-1, has a better meter, and the lens selection is incredible. Those, and a number of other reasons, are why I kept my OM-2N and sold my AE-1.
re-upload? i could have sworn i saw videos of the om2n from you before. pretty sure that's why i subscribed months ago. maybe its just an insane case of deja vu lol.
background songs? i like the first one :)
Not the OM-2n. I've done the OM-10 and OMG before, though.
The first one is one of the songs I try to put in many of my videos. I'll look up what song it is when I get home, but all the music is from UA-cam's royalty-free stockpile.
This was tricky for music because I forgot to plug my mic in, and the camera's record volume is really low. So the background music is a bit more apparent here. Here's a link to the song on UA-cam: Royalty Free Music - Adil Laresh - The Way
David Hancock
Thank You sir!
Lovely camera, are the lenses really much better than Nikkor from that era? I collect allot of older Nikkor and I found them to be truly lovely lenses.
In that they are smaller and lighter, yes. I also think that the DoF preview on the lens is a huge advantage. To my eyes, Zuiko lenses are a bit sharper than Nikkors, but there comes a point where you have to ask how much sharper does a lens need to be? I think Nikkor lenses are simply stunning performers.
David Hancock I agree, on my D60 I definitely miss not being able to see the DOF.
Is everything with the om2 basically the same as om2n? What would be the only reason to get the 2n over the 2?
The N has an improved meter for longer exposures. Otherwise, I think they're the same.
17:30, sorry for blowing up your page with comments... one more question: So in auto mode shutter speed max's out at 120 seconds? So how did you get your camera to have the shutter open for 3 hours until you got sick of it... meaning, if I wanted to shoot astrophotography, I thought I would set it on auto mode to get very long exposures, but you suggest I can only get 2 minutes exposure. Let me know. Thanks.
***** woops, I saw your addendum at the top of the screen... so from what I understand, for astro work, I can throw it on auto and it will calculate the time even longer than 2 minutes. Cool. Think I got it.
***** Sort of yet. The light meter won't compensate for reciprocity failure. So for asto work, even if you just want to do a star trails, simply put it in bulb and use a cable release to lock the shutter open. Then come back 45 minutes to a few hours later. Film needs a long time to soak up enough light to create an image at night (unless there's a full moon.)
David Hancock Ahhhh... I see. So I could just as easily use my OM-1 if I'm going that route.. plus, OM-1 has mirror lock. Cool. God damn reciprocity failure!!! Thanks for reply.
***** Anytime. I'm glad to help.
Quick question, the meter is just for getting proper exposure right? So when you say this camera has the best meter ever made, do you mean it's very accurate in giving you a proper exposure? Or something else?
Correct on each count. The meter lets you know when you have settings that will deliver a proper exposure and the meter is exceptionally accurate.
Hey I need some help with my olympus om2n. So I brought it to the camera shop and I truly believe the camera guy messed up camera on purpose. The advance lever isn't doing anymore. He was testing it out and was very rough with it. I'm very upset and unfortunately that's the only camera shop in my city. Is there anyway possible would you know how to fix the advance lever?
I'm assuming that you've pressed the shutter release and that the shutter fired, correct? Also try opening the back (if there's no film in it) and resetting the frame counter. Try actuating the shutter actuating and then advancing the film. Let me know if that helps.
Hey great video, im sorry to comment on a video that old but im a total noob and just got my Olympus OM2 and wanna ask why the mirror directly behind the lense is popped up and how i get it down or what idk how and i dont want to break anything
+Luke Rake Thank you!
The mirror pop up is normal and means you either don't have a battery or have a dead battery. To flip it down without a battery, set the shutter speed to "B". Then, when you have a fresh battery (actually two A76 batteries) in it, it should work as billed.
There is also a small lever/switch to the right of the mirror that does the same function
@@notyourpersonsperson1380 -- the "Check/Reset" function of the meter switch is present only on the OM-2n, not the original OM-2. The OM-2 must be set to the red "B" position on the shutter dial to release a locked up mirror.
Hey David! I purchase a Olympus Om2 N the other day on eBay and I just received it. The chamber cap for the battery, I'm unable to turn it because the grip it pretty dull. I wanted to know is there any other way I can remove it with out using a coin?
Thanks!
Well, that's a tricky one. Is the cap groove chipped or worn away from use or does it look fine? If it looks fine and won't turn, then either there's an exploded battery in the chamber of the cap was cross-threaded.
The cap was specifically designed for a coin. Try a nickel as they seat perfectly in the groove. If that does not work, then you'd need to drill two holes into the cap and use a spanner wrench, and that's not a pleasant thing to try without ample practice. I won't even do it.
You may find that you just need to really manhandle it. If the cap was cross-threaded onto the body, then order a new cap. Once cross-threaded, a cap will have a hard time seating properly in the future.
If a battery leaked in the chamber, you'll need to get he camera repaired.
Did the eBay listing indicate that the cap won't come off of the body? Or did it indicate that the camera is in great shape? If the seller said it's in great shape and the cap is stuck, then that's grounds for a return and refund. If they sold it as-is or untested, sometimes those purchases pay off and sometimes they don't.
Just for record, the bottom comes off with just four screws, and there should be nothing underneath loose. Once it's off, you can remove/install batteries, then replace the cover to get the camera working.
But while the bottom cover is off, it's sometimes easier to get a grip on both sides of the battery cover (finger on one side, thumb on the other) and twist it off. Even if you can't, that's the time to do any drilling -- you don't want metal shavings to drop inside the camera!
An even better technique is (with the bottom off), take a motor-tool (like a Dremel) with a cutting disk and re-cut the coin slot with sharper edges that a coin will grab onto better. It reveals the brass underneath, but chances are the coin slot is torn up anyway.
a local om2-s is available. seems in decent condition. should i hold out for the om2n?
They're both pretty great cameras. If it's your first film camera, either will work well for you.
how do you clean dust from inside the lens of these?
You have to disassemble the lens. Depending on the lens and where the dust is, that can be easy or very hard. The easiest lenses have removable front rings and removable elements. Fix Old Cameras is a great channel for seeing how lenses are disassembled.
Some dust is not an issue. If you have a single, large piece of dust (or even a few pieces), that isn't a significant issue. If you have a speckling of small dust bits, that's not a big issue. The problem comes about where there's lots of small dust. That degrades image quality a good deal.
Can I ask what is the battery life like on this camera? How many shots would you be able to get with 1 battery?
+Ainslie Yuun Yii Generally good. It depends a bit on how much you use it, use your light meter, and if you let it sit (especially if you let it sit with the lens cap off and switch set to on). A pair of batteries should be expected to last a year under regular-to-heavy use.
David Hancock Oh okay. A heap whole better than digital batteries for sure!
you can view it now david.
+dq regina So, this is just a guess, but you have the MD mount on the base of it, so you can use the motor drive. The earliest OM-1 bodies could not mount the motor drive, so I'm guessing that when they started making the OM-1 bodies with the MD base, they probably had some of the cameras already in production without the MD badge. So my guess is that you're is from the transition period between the oldest OM-1 bodies and the standard MD bodies. As for rarity, I have no idea what the Olympus collectors' market is like. It certainly is a nice looking camera in great condition.
I have also with complete kit but i dont know how to use 😿
Hopefully the second video in this series will remedy that.
Peoples always said that Pentax K-1000 was the best for starters and photography students. I don't have money for some very cool Nikon FM (one of FMs) so I don't know whot is better Olympus om-2n or Pentax k-1000
+Ivan Pelčić The OM-2N is a better camera going by the numbers, but the K1000 is better for learning the fundamentals of how photography works.
Oh thanks, but I watched your videos (they were awesame) and I liked Olympus more. I have chance to learn with Yashica electro 35 and other digital cameras so I think my choices will be om 2n.
That's a good choice. Honestly, the OM-2N is a better camera and you'll be really happy with it.
+David Hancock You are only UA-cam photographer that always comment me BACK and THANK YOU FOR THAT, and for all good videos, of course. And one more kuestion, well is it ok to spend around 80$ on it!
I forgot to say that it coms with hot shor and 50 mm lens and it is om Ebay.
You’ve mentioned that the OM2-SP is expensive. Would you pay for $125 for it in good working condition and the only issue would be some little brassing on the corners of the bottom plate?
Also, I didn’t know 28mm f2 is that expensive. I had a chance of buying one for just $40. Should’ve gotten it!
Jump on that in a heartbeat if the prism is in good shape.
That's an unheard of price. The 28 2.8 often sells for 80-90.
Yeah. My bad. It was actually priced at $120. Bad forex conversion on my part. It was bundled with a 200mm f4. Didn’t think I was going to use the 200mm so I passed. I also have a mint 28mm f3.5 which I got for $70. It’s got the leather case, lens hood and complete lens cap. So that was another reason.
Yep. The prism is clear and all but I also have the OM2n already. Ughhh. A clear of GAS. I’ll try to renegotiate the prices. Thanks! Awesome videos as always! 😀
By the way, that’s a 28mm f2, the one I passed on. Not f2.8. 😢
It can calculate for reciprocity?
No because reciprocity varies by film.
Better than Minolta’s CLC meter?
Definitely yes because it has better long-exposure calculation. Also, the Minolta CLC meters did not (that I know of, but correct me if I'm wrong) end up in use on any cameras with aperture-priority mode. These are more accurate because the off-the-film-plane metering provides more accurate metering information for better automatic shutter speeds.
esposimeter is the same of the om2?
No. This has a different meter that allows it to calculate longer exposures. I'm not sure what the physical differences are.
hey david, my Om-2n has a problem. the shutter stays open after i snap a photo. I've never had a battery in it and its worked fine on manual before but right now as I'm messing with it, i tried to take a photo and then it started doing it. any help or tips?
i have had batteries in it... my bad lol
+Aaron Tolbert Hmm. It was working properly before but now it's not, correct?
Yea it was. I even changed the battery to see if that was the problem but nothing changed
Aaron Tolbert Well, shoot. My next suggestion was going to be a new battery to see if maybe the old ones lacked the charge to complete the cycle. It sounds like you need a repair. My guess is that something is either gummy in the mechanism or some internal bumper is starting to get sticky. I haven't ever used this guy, but I'm told by other camera repair people that he's excellent: www.zuiko.com. His name is John Hermanson and everyone I know who repairs cameras or who has used him to repair their cameras has fantastic things to say about his work.
+David Hancock I found that it was the battery and had it in wrong once i watched your video. Thank you!
Groove cap, yes the coin cannot grip it. I've tried every coin. I also ordered another groove cap on eBay. The seller didn't state that the groove cap was in bad condition which sucks. I've contacted him and he did not respond.
Forgot to mention he did state in the description that the camera was in great condition and was tested.
Some sellers are like that. I'm dealing with a bad seller right now, too. Can you take a photo of the cap and put a link in the comment? I'll take a look and see if I have any other ideas.
If he tested it, then he had to have gotten the battery cap off. The OM2n won't operate without a battery.
i.imgur.com/Kpvc0jh.jpg
Exactly. He did provide new batteries but unfortunately, I can't seem to put them into the camera.
3:55 Can you explain a little more about how it calculates film reciprocity? I know different films have different reciprocity... does it just do like an average of what happens with MOST films once you start hitting longer than a minute exposures? I'd love to know, because it would be great for night photography to not have to bust out a reciprocity chart, and just throw this thing on auto. (I suppose it's worth trying a roll!!).
Thank you and I forget exactly what I said but I don't think this camera calculates reciprocity. If I recall, it just has a meter that's exceptional at calculating ultra-long exposures, which most cameras do not have.
1:45... you can change out the focusing screens. Not sure if that's what you meant by interchangeable prism. You can't take the prism off and take pictures at waist level like some Nikons, but that's sort of pointless, you can just bend down and get at waistlevel.
***** Switching the focusing screen means swapping out the type of screen that allows you to see the image in the eyepiece. Different types of screens -- plain, grid, etc. -- have different uses and benefits. As for swapping prisms, there's a huge benefit there, too. Macro and reprographic works are significantly easier, cleaning the camera is easier, and putting on specialty prisms allows for easier use of the camera in different situations.
David Hancock So I have my OM-1 and love it. Is the metering system you spoke of in this camera the same as the OM-1? Besides that, I like aperture priority. In low light situations, I can't really see my metering needle in low light on my om-1. Let me know about the metering system if it's different when you get a second. Thanks. Might buy the om-2n.
***** No. The OM2N has a different metering system than the OM-1. I admit to not being an Olympus expert, but I think that each of the four single-digit OM bodies has a different type of meter. Also, the variant bodies (N and S) have different or refined versions of the primary camera's meter.
+David Hancock HI. Have used the OM series professionally since the mid 70s. I have the 1, 2,3 and 4 models in various guises.
Single digit bodies were metal and built to professional standards all through. The later cameras (OM2S, OM3/Ti and OM4/T/Ti) had weather sealing on battery chambers, drive couplings, upper and lower body, shutter, timer, metering,switches etc.
Double digit and alphabetical series models (OM10/20/G/30/F/40/2000) were consumer lever, plastic bodied cameras.
Back to single digit bodies-(the good stuff!)
The odd-number cameras (Om1/3) were mechanically operated (i.e. non battery dependent) cameras.
The even numbers (2/4) were electronically controlled with OTF (off the film) aperture priority auto real time metering plus an electronically timed manual option.
The mechanical units (1/3) differed as follows:
OM1 - cds cell centre-weighted average metering cell in the prism with match needle metering.
OM1MD - Added motor drive coupling (Two removable caps on base plate tell you it is MD spec-battery cap only is not an MD)
OM1n MD- All the above but via shoe 4 it gave a flash ready warning in the viewfinder plus a flash auto-check (flashing green ready lamp) after exposure as well.
OM3-Metering cell below the mirror in the base of the body for center weighted average OR switchable spot metering.
The SPOT button memorised the value metered within the micro=prism collar area at the moment you pressed the button. You could take as many spot readings as you wished but only the last 8 would be averaged and the result shown by moving the target in the display. You then adjusted aperture or shutter speed to get the reading in the middle of the dotted LCD display.
OM3Ti - All the above plus Titanium top and bottom covers - as rare as they come now in good condition and very expensive (If you can find one)
The aperture priority auto units differed as follows:
OM2: Off the film, center weighted real time metering for aperture preferred operation using two silicon blue cells in the forward corners of the mirror bos.
A second cds cell is in the prism to permit the display to give you an estimated reading prior to exposure. On manual this meter is used to drive the match-needle system for center weighted average metering. Shutter operation is electronic at all times except B.
Flash exposure was TTL read in real time during exposure using the Olympus flash system
If the switch is OFF and you trip the shutter, the camera will use aperture prioroty auto exposure between 1/1000 and 1/30sec - the idea being to help you get the shot even if you forget to turn the meter on.
On the OM2 the B setting was mechanical and not battery dependent. All other operation needed batteries. As the first part of the release cycle was mechanical, if the battery is exhausted the mirror will flip up but the magnets cannot trigger the shutter - hence the Re-Set option on the cial.
OM2 MD - Added motor drive coupling to camera under a removable cap on the base plate.
OM2n MD - Added flash ready light and post-flash exposure confirmation check light in the viewfinder and TTL flash with up to 9 units via TTL connector in place of shoe 4.
OM2S. Real time ceter-weighted off the film metering in auto and programme modes. Manual mode only uses the microprism area as a spot meter.
Mechanical speeds at B and 1/60 second (via an adaptation of the OM4 shutter).
OM4: Center weighted off the film real time metering with aperture preferred auto via a sensor below the mirror. Mutiple spot readings of microprism area available in Auto and manual modes with last 8 averaged but shutter is tripped electronically in auto and manual modes. Mechanical operation on B and 1/60th second.
The OM3/4 and 2S had fixed hot shoes but added a built-in connector for the TTL cable on the upper left of the body thus eliminating the need for the removable shoes first used with the OM1 and 2.
If you have an OM2S or OM4, always store the camera with the shutter dial set to the red B or 1/60th setting so as to prevent the shutter being depressed in the storage case and activating the meter system - this can drain the battery. Set to the red settings on the dial your batteries will last for ages.
A final note as to dependability. Using an average rate of film use per week or assignment during its long career, my OM2n must have done well in excess of 1 million exposures on its shutter unit (98% of them on the motor drive) and is still going. And that through Africa, European wars, rain, sun and dust.
Tough little things...
+Mark Young Apologies, a few (key) added differences.
The OM3 and 4 added built-in doptric adjustment of the viewfinder eyepiece as well as the ability to rewind the film using the new motor drive unit MD2 (Why the 3 and 4 have added contacts on the bottom plate as well as a slotted key and door under the film spool chamber.
The MD2 used the same NiCd battery and pistol grip power supplies as the original MD1.
Your Commentary is quite good but the LIGHTING on your video is too contrasty-- very dark details on the controls -- I use daylight in my bathroom and get very SOFT lighting with all the white reflections off ceiling and walls.
Yeah, my lighting is a constant struggle. Since I have to film these in my free time, typically I'm filming late at night with five shop lamps pointed at the camera.
It's not allowing me to advance the film. The advancer goes all the way when I try to advance it and it does nothing.
Ouch. So the lever moves freely and does not advance the film, correct? If so, that is definitely broken.
What mount system is that called? thanks
Olympus OM
thanks
Just curious. do they make adapter for old manual minolta lens to mount on this camera? I have a fotodiox so I can mount minolta lens to canon ef mount. Just not sure if anyone does film lens to another film camera adapter. I know Olympus has the 4/3 and the mcro. The OM is not the same right? thanks
I don't think there are any adapters to OM mount since it's a dead mount. There are adapters from OM to Sony E, Pentax Q, and others.
Thanks David! I'll ordered a Minolta camera in Ebay :-) The X9. Plastic but looks to be in good shape.
Ft flashes have gone the way of the dodo hahahaha.
:D
David Hancock So do you think the OM2n light meter is better than The Om4ti?
Felipe Alvarez Suarez I haven't used the OM4ti, so I can't speak from direct experience. Of the cameras I've used, the OM2N is the best, absolutely. I have read that it is more accurate, especially for long exposures than any other camera ever made.
Felipe Alvarez Suarez Both OM Series Electronic TTL "Light Meters are of Electronic-100% Super-Light Measuring Science Light Measuring Accuracy, better than Hand Held Light Meters"!! The OM Series are "Excellent Cameras for Astro-Photography the OM-1 and OM-2n are the BEST Choice Single Lens Reflex "Film Reciprocity Measuring Electronic Sensors which constantly checks the Exposure for Astro-Photography, the is the BEST Olympus OM Series Leica-Leitz OM Olympus Series BEST SLR Film Cameras for "Astro-Photography" as well as every-day Photography Excellence!!!!!!!!!! I own the Olympus OM-2n with Zuiko F/1.4 Fast but edge to edge Pinpoint Stars to the edge of 100% Super Multi-Coated ZUIKO Olympus Lenses++++!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sexiest camera alive.
Very possibly
2 min. auto exposure
That was, I believe, the published length, yes. The actual duration can be far longer, however.
Great video!
Thank you!