Just built a rocket stove from David S site. Was like your j stove. Like your content. Honey due video go long. Like u get to the point. A big thanks from Australia
I have an idea, I am to old to start a new venture, but someone out there may want to pursue this idea. I would like to build aircrete logs. Based on the toys we all played with when we were kids, Lincoln logs. These could be pre-manufactured so really almost anyone could buy the logs and construct a building. There would need to be different lengths made say like 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 feet etc. There would need to be some that had special ends with channels for doors and windows. There could be some that are pre wired with wall outlet boxes and switches. Logs could be pre-colored or surfaced in some cases. A building could be constructed permanently by bonding the logs together, or could be temporary and disassembled and moved. I think this could be an amazing new business that could revolutionize small buildings. And it would allow for any person to DIY.
man... I apreciate that you show your mistakes, so it's the most commons results we usually obtain.... and we get frustrated often... but it encourages me to continue trying and experience this material....
Thank you for the good words, Ariel. I appreciate the feedback. Aircrete has been a unique material to practice with and understand. It has been a fun process. Thank you for watching.
Presumably, if you sealed the crete forms, they wouldnt collapse because the air wouldnt have anywhere to go right? and for larger /stronger slabs, baybe what you should do is make a bunch of small aircrete tubes/bricks and break them up, then use the broken up crete bits, to make a new mix of crete, like a styrofoam crete but using small busted up bits of air crete instead of styrofoam
I did start covering the bricks with plastic to keep the outside air away. That helped keep the white top layer from forming. Great tip on reusing broken bits of aircrete in more aircrete. Kinda like a twice-baked potato. :-) Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing this experiment. Very interesting in the foaming agent that would be not Drexel and still be working well as Drexel can't be shipped overseas. So Palmolive 1:16 seems a good fit so far :)
I used perlite to make lightweight concrete, while it costs more, so much less labor and tinkering involved. If you are not making a building, no reason to bother with foam to save $10.
One of the first things I ever learned about concrete is it's composition... Water, cement and some kind of aggregate... In this case, there isn't any aggregate... cement is a glue, and only becomes concrete when a bond is made between the glue (cement) and the aggregate such as rock, sand or even perlite. The foam just creates air bubbles that make the mix lighter, not stronger. you need another component to create the bond.
Greetings.. excellent content you have build up here! I’ve seen many others about cellular concrete and this it’s by far one of the best since you’re making a binnacle of your own experience and testimony.. one of the thing I could see you’re doing different it’s that you’re using ordinary dishwashing soap.. and I’ve seen that and industrial component as pure propilenglicol or and industrial foaming agent it will end with better results! Another thing it will be the batches.. I can’t remember what you’re using but smaller batches of 1 or half a kilo of sand by 7 or 3,5 kilos of cement dust with about a liter of water plus the necessary quantity of foaming agent to that liter you will get with about a quantity slight less than 5 gallons and it will be better that try to mix large amounts of the aircrete! Probably because light machinery as a drill with a mortar mixer bit accesory will worked better to mix up the cellular concrete without deinflate the batch.. and heavy machinery will tend to overmix the aircrete! Another thing it’s that we tend to think that any kind of sand will work well but just regular sand or even fine sand will probably make a good aircrete.. but I’ve researching and a good quality fine sand or better than those a good river sand will make a difference not decanting on the bottom of the mix!
@@GreenShortzDIY What I use now is marker foam. It is used by farmers for marking out their crop areas. You can buy it in 4 liter packs or 20 liter drums fairly cheaply.
Hi Rambo. You just need the cement slurry to harden enough before sinking any. I help this process by covering the filled forms with plastic sheeting to keep the air away and popping bubbles. There is a range of what works and it is the kind of thing you need to try a few times to see what works. It took me a few months of making videos to get it right. The videos made that take longer. I think you could get a feel for it in 3-4 batches. Thank you for watching.
The foam always seems to start out bad and then get to shaving foam consistency but you catch the bad foam in your bucket. I think you should run it onto the ground until the foam gets good and only then direct it onto your cement. Actually the foam seemed good straight away for the mix at 30 mins but the earlier mixes had the issue.
You are right, Andrew. I do forget to prime the pump. I’ll make clearing the wet foam first a standard practice. It did the same thing at the 30 min mark, I was just in my “slice and dice” edit mode at that point and cut that out. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
on your reservoir cap cut an inner tube or other rubber and glue to the inside of the cap so that the edges will cover the male connection. That should solve your leak. You might be able to use a toilet bowl flapper seal but not sure if that is the right size. I get inner tubes from tire shops, they usually have bad ones laying around.
The problem I see here is your air pressure. Its the reason your gun is spurting out the foam and not just creating steady flow and consistency. I would advise you dial down a little bit and observe how that turns out. Another thing you might want to check is that you're using a proteinaceous foam and not synthetics like SLS... SLS rise quickly but don't hold structure well over time...
About 20 yrs ago, I remember houses being built with a mixture of concrete and recycled styrofoam filler which otherwise would be trash, made into bricks/ blocks. Structural. So why Aircrete instead? Just asking.
What you are talking about has more structural value that aircrete. My understanding is that aircrete offers insulating properties for my plan to use the material to create Rocket stoves and a furnace. Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY thanks for not minding the question. It's been so long, I'd forgotten about that technique. I do remember that the blocks were not flammable. But bigger, bulkier than the sides you are creating for stoves. I suppose they might be pizza oven material? But really intended for house construction.
Questions always welcome. But, I certainly don’t have all the answers. Lol. Especially with aircrete. I’m still learning about it. I have seen people create buildings with it, but usually poured with a steel frame that provides the structure. I’m not planning anything to that scale. At least not yet. Thank you for the encouragement.
Try getting some lightweight aggregate to include - pumice or expanded shale maybe? Whatever you choose you want something rough and jagged not smooth and rounded. Also what about playing with admixtures? You can buy air entertaining admixture online, maybe locally too but you'd have to check stores in your area. Last edit, I promise - I notice that the tops exposed to the air seem way more crumbly than the rest of the concrete. Concrete needs to stay wet to cure, and I'm wondering if the mixture is drying out too quickly. For the surface area there's going to be a lot less water in aircrete than normal concrete, so maybe it's drying out faster too? Look into "wet cure" and see about that for your future testing as well. Keep up the great videos.
creative content.. looking forward to the results. Some thoughts: seemed like the dry cement used was lumpy/clumpy which will make it more difficult to achieve a homogeneous mix and effect strength. You want a very smooth portland cement slurry to start. I'm thinking the 1st batch that resulted in a very thick chocolate mouse like consistency will turn out the best. The gritty batches looked off. Aircrete is a simple yet very precise process. Not sure what your ratios are . You might have better luck achieving proper density trying suave clarifying shampoo, dawn or seventh generation dish detergent which have yielded successful results for other aircrete enthusiasts. Maybe consider doing a little larger batches and injecting the foam to the bottom of the bucket by adding a longer pvc piece to the end .... so it will incorporate better. Foam tends to want to float to the top. A fellow youtuber MAN ABOUT TOOLS did aircrete raised garden beds and shares his smaller batch recipe with precise ratios. The video is entitled: "Make Lightweight Concrete Garden Boxes PART 3 - Aircrete Vermiculite Lava Rock" ua-cam.com/video/ddedMmuj7xY/v-deo.html at about 10 in he demonstrates aircrete. it might help to replicate his recipe initially to get the correct ratios established. Best of luck in your aircrete adventures.
Thank you for the feedback. I looked at some Man About Tools for some research. :-) I didn’t see his ratio section though. Thank you for pointing me there. I agree that this Portland is a bit chunky. It had seized up a bit and I had to break it up. I do think that affected the mix. I think the gritty mixture looked off. I saw that Aircrete Harry used the foaming agents you referred to. I also saw a comment that referenced Seventh Generation containing glycerin, which helped support the foam. Interesting idea to inject the foam below the slurry, I’ll have to give that a try. Thank you for watching.
Great, I am looking forward to these experiments. Your big block was perfect, Aircrete is always going to be able to be pressed in with your thumb, you can always render a stronger sand cement mixture on the outside of your finished project to strengthen it. I think your slurry was too thick, as you already know water is essential for the cement to chemically cure it looked too dry. Did you cover the aircrete in the forms to hold the moisture in? I like your style, how you wing it, but if you get a really good consistency you would need to know the ratios in order to repeat it
Use old motor oil to grease molds , its mixed with diesel and spray with garden sprayer. Quick and cheap. If cold weather use handful of calcium chloride to heat mixture, then pour.
You should work on a styrofoam grinder and mix very fine styrofoam with the aircrete.. for styroaircrete... also add some stronger cement mix to the top and bottom of the pour to give more surface strength without too much weight gain...
I don´t remember, if you had a German welcome yet. If not it´s "Guten Tag", which would be pronounced "goot ´n turg" in English and means "Good day". Thanks a lot for your videos. I learned a lot and will be building my first oven myself, soon.
You are probably correct. I did get a good result on the last video in this series. I’ll need to quantify how I got that mix. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Remember curing takes around 28 day's for more strength. It will get stronger the longer it sit's. So try those thin samples again and try your test again and see if there is any change.
I fully agree with your advice, Jimy Isenberg. The curing of the cement is one of the most important aspects and one that many people relaitivize. I have experience in ferrocement and, what makes the difference in the resistance of the pieces, in two equal samples, is the care of the curing of the cement. It is very important to cure the cement taking into account the following points: keep humidity above 90%. Protect the piece of cement from direct sun and wind. Paying attention to these points makes a difference in the strength of the piece of cement that you manufacture. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
a little late but put a regulator on your air coming in and put in only like 30psi and experiment a little might even do less. This will make it denser, your foam is too coarse, also I would do better screening the cement to powder or mixing better before the foam the big clumps and coarse foam are hurting your consistency in the finished product. also might try better foaming agent or some accelerator or baking soda to get the cement to cure faster before your foam collapses.
Hi Donald. I’m not sure it has the compressive strength to have a structure sitting on it. Perhaps if there were columns of full strength concrete along the wall, the aircrete could fill in in between. But, an engineer would need to weigh in on that. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Good tip on the mesh. I have switched to 7th Generation detergent, which has glycerin. Much better foam! Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
1-Take down the wind chimes before filming, put them back up when done filming for the day. 2-Next start testing for air/limecrete (limecrete lasts thousands of years using volcanic ash as the filler instead of sand).
Doesn't soap weaken mortar? Hmm. Try gauging your mixes more accurately, use a smaller bucket and work out a ratio. Then adjust. Never going to get consistent results eyeballing it xD
I was thinking Air Crete is not ment to be structural it is to make concrete lighter. To use in between supports that hold it more solid. If you want to use it instead of blocks you will have to make them thicker. Put the wire inside but also put a layer of something on the outsides. Maybe a fake brick or a thin fire brick. It by itself is not stable.
Thank you for the tips, Deleah. What I plan to build won’t require much structural strength. The furnace will likely be inside a metal bucket. I’m thinking about skim coating the two other projects. Thank you for watching.
Salut (don't pronounce the letter ‘t’) monsieur = Hi sir (Mr). You can pronounce something like (more or less) ‹silu masia› The French ‘u’ pronounce differently than in English but I have no clue to help you for that. Thank you and congratulations for your very good work and your pronunciation of the Japanese language
Kumusta in spanish sounds like Como Está? what means: How are you? that is used to say hello too. I think that is thxs to the Spanish Building Empire.. who arrives to Filipinas and start to devoloped the country. NICE!
Hola, yo estoy muy bien observando tus videos que son muy importantes para mi. Si entendiste lo que te escribí espero tu respuesta con un emoji de 😉 Saludos desde Colombia en el sur de América.
Ha. Yeah, I noticed that too. I think it was only loud early on. I was right below the wind chimes. I did cut out the extra whiny air compressor in high-speed. :-) Thank you for the feedback and for making it 7-minutes.
Just built a rocket stove from David S site. Was like your j stove. Like your content. Honey due video go long. Like u get to the point.
A big thanks from Australia
Thank you for watching, Robert.
When you switch the foam generator on each time, you need to catch that first bit of not-foam and keep it out of your mix.
Thanks for the tip! I've started doing that (seen in later videos in this series). A great suggestion.
I absolutely love these videos. We need more like you who think green and frugal.
Thank you for watching, Rex. I appreciate the encouragement.
I have an idea, I am to old to start a new venture, but someone out
there may want to pursue this idea. I would like to build aircrete logs.
Based on the toys we all played with when we were kids, Lincoln logs.
These could be pre-manufactured so really almost anyone could buy the
logs and construct a building. There would need to be different lengths
made say like 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 feet etc. There would need to be some
that had special ends with channels for doors and windows. There could
be some that are pre wired with wall outlet boxes and switches. Logs
could be pre-colored or surfaced in some cases. A building could be
constructed permanently by bonding the logs together, or could be
temporary and disassembled and moved. I think this could be an amazing
new business that could revolutionize small buildings. And it would
allow for any person to DIY.
An interesting idea. I loved my Lincoln Logs, growing up. :-) Thank you for watching.
That's a clever idea, but I think they would mostly break if over 3'.
Nice
great information i like the failures and success
man... I apreciate that you show your mistakes, so it's the most commons results we usually obtain.... and we get frustrated often... but it encourages me to continue trying and experience this material....
Thank you for the good words, Ariel. I appreciate the feedback. Aircrete has been a unique material to practice with and understand. It has been a fun process. Thank you for watching.
Those sound like Canterbury windchimes. Beautiful musical accompaniment for a Great video!
Thank you for watching. :-)
Just joined, I love your videos and am learning so much! Hope you keep creating new backyard tech we can use and adapt!
Thank you, Pattie! Let me know if there is any video info you want in particular. :-)
I enjoy your experiments with rocket stoves.
Hi James. It has been a fun pursuit. Thank you for watching.
🌬 Wind
One of my personal fav's.
(Good one!) 👍
Lol. I’m a goof ball. But, you know that. :-)
Presumably, if you sealed the crete forms, they wouldnt collapse because the air wouldnt have anywhere to go right? and for larger /stronger slabs, baybe what you should do is make a bunch of small aircrete tubes/bricks and break them up, then use the broken up crete bits, to make a new mix of crete, like a styrofoam crete but using small busted up bits of air crete instead of styrofoam
I did start covering the bricks with plastic to keep the outside air away. That helped keep the white top layer from forming. Great tip on reusing broken bits of aircrete in more aircrete. Kinda like a twice-baked potato. :-) Thanks for watching.
Your passion for foamcrete is highly admirable.
I used to use CaCl2 as an accelerator.
For a firmer foam, you can slightly reduce the air pressure.👍
Excited for this video! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you for watching. I appreciate the encouragement.
I love wind chimes and have some of my own but they are distracting on your video.
On this video they were over the top. Now I usually take them down if the breeze is too much. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Nice foam generator
Thank you. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for sharing this experiment. Very interesting in the foaming agent that would be not Drexel and still be working well as Drexel can't be shipped overseas. So Palmolive 1:16 seems a good fit so far :)
What is the air pressure set to?
Thanks for your work ❤
Omg I loved my shout out. 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Lol. Thank you for being first and for your prayers. :-)
I used perlite to make lightweight concrete, while it costs more, so much less labor and tinkering involved.
If you are not making a building, no reason to bother with foam to save $10.
True. But, I try things for the sake of trying. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for your ideas. We enjoy your channel
Glad to be of service. Thank you for watching.
One of the first things I ever learned about concrete is it's composition... Water, cement and some kind of aggregate... In this case, there isn't any aggregate... cement is a glue, and only becomes concrete when a bond is made between the glue (cement) and the aggregate such as rock, sand or even perlite. The foam just creates air bubbles that make the mix lighter, not stronger. you need another component to create the bond.
Correct. He needs a closed cell foam if that going to be his aggregate.
Greetings.. excellent content you have build up here! I’ve seen many others about cellular concrete and this it’s by far one of the best since you’re making a binnacle of your own experience and testimony.. one of the thing I could see you’re doing different it’s that you’re using ordinary dishwashing soap.. and I’ve seen that and industrial component as pure propilenglicol or and industrial foaming agent it will end with better results! Another thing it will be the batches.. I can’t remember what you’re using but smaller batches of 1 or half a kilo of sand by 7 or 3,5 kilos of cement dust with about a liter of water plus the necessary quantity of foaming agent to that liter you will get with about a quantity slight less than 5 gallons and it will be better that try to mix large amounts of the aircrete! Probably because light machinery as a drill with a mortar mixer bit accesory will worked better to mix up the cellular concrete without deinflate the batch.. and heavy machinery will tend to overmix the aircrete! Another thing it’s that we tend to think that any kind of sand will work well but just regular sand or even fine sand will probably make a good aircrete.. but I’ve researching and a good quality fine sand or better than those a good river sand will make a difference not decanting on the bottom of the mix!
Good stuff here. Thanks for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
if you add a touch of glycerine to the foam the bubbles will remain firmer.
Hi Fleanis. Thank you for the tip. In a more recent video I used Seventh Generation dish soap, which includes glycerin. :-) Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY What I use now is marker foam. It is used by farmers for marking out their crop areas. You can buy it in 4 liter packs or 20 liter drums fairly cheaply.
Thank you for your service
It is my pleasure, Bear.
How do you know the container is full of foam? Looks like you trap a lot of air at the bottom.
DIY ay nakakahangang gawain at nakaka challenge at medyo magastos hahahA
What is the sufficient foam density that i have to maintain , bro?
Hi Rambo. You just need the cement slurry to harden enough before sinking any. I help this process by covering the filled forms with plastic sheeting to keep the air away and popping bubbles. There is a range of what works and it is the kind of thing you need to try a few times to see what works. It took me a few months of making videos to get it right. The videos made that take longer. I think you could get a feel for it in 3-4 batches. Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY how much foam density will you maintain?
Its usually around 75 to 90 grams per litre
Vaseline works well to seal and makes releasing the thread on cap easy .
The foam always seems to start out bad and then get to shaving foam consistency but you catch the bad foam in your bucket. I think you should run it onto the ground until the foam gets good and only then direct it onto your cement. Actually the foam seemed good straight away for the mix at 30 mins but the earlier mixes had the issue.
You are right, Andrew. I do forget to prime the pump. I’ll make clearing the wet foam first a standard practice. It did the same thing at the 30 min mark, I was just in my “slice and dice” edit mode at that point and cut that out. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY Thanks for putting out stuff for us to learn from :).
Can I put salt on garden to get rid of the Ivy's in my garden
Hi Carol. I don’t recommend using salt in the garden. That ivy will need to be pulled out or dug up. Thank you for watching.
"Hello" in the New England states is the middle finger. Works with "Good-bye" as well. LOL
:-) I was born in Boston. My parents taught me young. Lol.
on your reservoir cap cut an inner tube or other rubber and glue to the inside of the cap so that the edges will cover the male connection. That should solve your leak. You might be able to use a toilet bowl flapper seal but not sure if that is the right size. I get inner tubes from tire shops, they usually have bad ones laying around.
Thanks for the tip, Ed. Thanks for watching.
The problem I see here is your air pressure. Its the reason your gun is spurting out the foam and not just creating steady flow and consistency.
I would advise you dial down a little bit and observe how that turns out.
Another thing you might want to check is that you're using a proteinaceous foam and not synthetics like SLS...
SLS rise quickly but don't hold structure well over time...
About 20 yrs ago, I remember houses being built with a mixture of concrete and recycled styrofoam filler which otherwise would be trash, made into bricks/ blocks. Structural. So why Aircrete instead? Just asking.
What you are talking about has more structural value that aircrete. My understanding is that aircrete offers insulating properties for my plan to use the material to create Rocket stoves and a furnace. Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY thanks for not minding the question. It's been so long, I'd forgotten about that technique. I do remember that the blocks were not flammable. But bigger, bulkier than the sides you are creating for stoves. I suppose they might be pizza oven material? But really intended for house construction.
Questions always welcome. But, I certainly don’t have all the answers. Lol. Especially with aircrete. I’m still learning about it. I have seen people create buildings with it, but usually poured with a steel frame that provides the structure. I’m not planning anything to that scale. At least not yet. Thank you for the encouragement.
Have you considered making the fill tube longer? That way you can fill the carton from the bottom up.
Good suggestion, Joe. I’ll give that a try. Thank you for watching.
Tu espuma esta buenísima pero hay que conocer las proporciones.
Try getting some lightweight aggregate to include - pumice or expanded shale maybe? Whatever you choose you want something rough and jagged not smooth and rounded.
Also what about playing with admixtures? You can buy air entertaining admixture online, maybe locally too but you'd have to check stores in your area.
Last edit, I promise - I notice that the tops exposed to the air seem way more crumbly than the rest of the concrete. Concrete needs to stay wet to cure, and I'm wondering if the mixture is drying out too quickly. For the surface area there's going to be a lot less water in aircrete than normal concrete, so maybe it's drying out faster too? Look into "wet cure" and see about that for your future testing as well.
Keep up the great videos.
I like what i see,great job on know how of creet
I’m still learning. Thank you for watching.
creative content.. looking forward to the results. Some thoughts: seemed like the dry cement used was lumpy/clumpy which will make it more difficult to achieve a homogeneous mix and effect strength. You want a very smooth portland cement slurry to start. I'm thinking the 1st batch that resulted in a very thick chocolate mouse like consistency will turn out the best. The gritty batches looked off. Aircrete is a simple yet very precise process. Not sure what your ratios are . You might have better luck achieving proper density trying suave clarifying shampoo, dawn or seventh generation dish detergent which have yielded successful results for other aircrete enthusiasts.
Maybe consider doing a little larger batches and injecting the foam to the bottom of the bucket by adding a longer pvc piece to the end .... so it will incorporate better. Foam tends to want to float to the top. A fellow youtuber MAN ABOUT TOOLS did aircrete raised garden beds and shares his smaller batch recipe with precise ratios. The video is entitled: "Make Lightweight Concrete Garden Boxes PART 3 - Aircrete Vermiculite Lava Rock" ua-cam.com/video/ddedMmuj7xY/v-deo.html at about 10 in he demonstrates aircrete. it might help to replicate his recipe initially to get the correct ratios established. Best of luck in your aircrete adventures.
Thank you for the feedback. I looked at some Man About Tools for some research. :-) I didn’t see his ratio section though. Thank you for pointing me there. I agree that this Portland is a bit chunky. It had seized up a bit and I had to break it up. I do think that affected the mix. I think the gritty mixture looked off. I saw that Aircrete Harry used the foaming agents you referred to. I also saw a comment that referenced Seventh Generation containing glycerin, which helped support the foam. Interesting idea to inject the foam below the slurry, I’ll have to give that a try. Thank you for watching.
Thanks bro❤❤❤
Great, I am looking forward to these experiments.
Your big block was perfect, Aircrete is always going to be able to be pressed in with your thumb, you can always render a stronger sand cement mixture on the outside of your finished project to strengthen it.
I think your slurry was too thick, as you already know water is essential for the cement to chemically cure it looked too dry. Did you cover the aircrete in the forms to hold the moisture in?
I like your style, how you wing it, but if you get a really good consistency you would need to know the ratios in order to repeat it
I beg to differ. The indians make aircrete that's pretty sturdy...
Thank you friend but idident know about afoam agent yet
You’re welcome. Thank you for watching.
Use old motor oil to grease molds , its mixed with diesel and spray with garden sprayer. Quick and cheap. If cold weather use handful of calcium chloride to heat mixture, then pour.
Thank you for the tips, Michael. You sound like a pro talking. :-) Thank you for watching.
You should work on a styrofoam grinder and mix very fine styrofoam with the aircrete.. for styroaircrete... also add some stronger cement mix to the top and bottom of the pour to give more surface strength without too much weight gain...
Great tips. Thank you, Ruth. :-)
If your foam is collapsing so quickly, your foaming agent may be the problem. The commercial people use very fancy synthetics.
Thanks Teal. I switched to a detergent with glycerin. That helped created more stable foam. Thanks for watching.
You should use a o ring the seal the resavor cap
In my language we say "hello" it's english for "hello"
Lol. Hello to you.
Can you use the concrete beads from your failed attempts?
Hi Cecil. I do think they could be used again. I didn’t think of it at the time, though. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Happy Saturday 😊
Happy Saturday, GG. Thank you for the continued support.
Ola cómo estás, love from Ibiza Spain
I don´t remember, if you had a German welcome yet. If not it´s "Guten Tag", which would be pronounced "goot ´n turg" in English and means "Good day". Thanks a lot for your videos. I learned a lot and will be building my first oven myself, soon.
I may have used German a long while ago. I think I did a "Hallo." Thank you for the guten tag. Thank you for watching.
I think if you want accurate results you need to have accurate amounts on your ingredients in order to find what is or is not working.
You are probably correct. I did get a good result on the last video in this series. I’ll need to quantify how I got that mix. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
Cheap vegetable oil works well on forms
Good'ay mate, from Oz.
Remember curing takes around 28 day's for more strength. It will get stronger the longer it sit's. So try those thin samples again and try your test again and see if there is any change.
I fully agree with your advice, Jimy Isenberg. The curing of the cement is one of the most important aspects and one that many people relaitivize.
I have experience in ferrocement and, what makes the difference in the resistance of the pieces, in two equal samples, is the care of the curing of the cement.
It is very important to cure the cement taking into account the following points: keep humidity above 90%. Protect the piece of cement from direct sun and wind.
Paying attention to these points makes a difference in the strength of the piece of cement that you manufacture.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
a little late but put a regulator on your air coming in and put in only like 30psi and experiment a little might even do less. This will make it denser, your foam is too coarse, also I would do better screening the cement to powder or mixing better before the foam the big clumps and coarse foam are hurting your consistency in the finished product. also might try better foaming agent or some accelerator or baking soda to get the cement to cure faster before your foam collapses.
why not put latex in ?
I hadn’t considered that. Thank you for the suggestion.
Nice I want to learn this stuff too
Howdy from Oklahoma
cool
Thank you for watching, Andrew. :-)
@@GreenShortzDIY Thank you for posting!Always had an interest in aircrete hopefully,we can all learn together?
@@andrewsarles3520 That's why we're here, to learn from his mistakes. It's much less work for us, and less costly. ;-)
The aircrete has been a little elusive. Lol.
Maybe it would be good filling icf block
Hi Donald. I’m not sure it has the compressive strength to have a structure sitting on it. Perhaps if there were columns of full strength concrete along the wall, the aircrete could fill in in between. But, an engineer would need to weigh in on that. Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
eu uso algo muito melhor que espuma, e fica perfeito!!!
Conta o segredo! Haha
The ratio for cement should be 6 gallons of water for each 90lb bag of cement. Looks like your mixture is too stiff
In Yorkshire we say "Ay up!" For hello 👍🏻
Good morning. :-)
Good morning, Terry! Thank you for watching early. :-)
Add glycerin to the liquid to help the bubbles survive longer. Also the reinforcement is too tight for such small form. Maybe 1x1 mesh...
Good tip on the mesh. I have switched to 7th Generation detergent, which has glycerin. Much better foam! Thank you for the feedback. Thank you for watching.
try to mix a shaving cream with the cement
how about an aircrete pizza oven???
Yeeeeesssssss! Love it. Thanks for the idea. (I'll put it on the list) Thank you for watching.
@@GreenShortzDIY Thank you for the reply ;) Have you ever used a car sudser? gonna try that... ;)
Os-da dough-hee-joo = Cherokee "Hello, how are you?"
G-day mate
G-day! I wonder if you could use use aircrete as insulation for your rocket stoves. I enjoy your videos.
no man is good
I agree. Thank you for watching.
1-Take down the wind chimes before filming, put them back up when done filming for the day.
2-Next start testing for air/limecrete (limecrete lasts thousands of years using volcanic ash as the filler instead of sand).
There seems to be a agricultural foam soap who holds forever
Doesn't soap weaken mortar? Hmm. Try gauging your mixes more accurately, use a smaller bucket and work out a ratio. Then adjust. Never going to get consistent results eyeballing it xD
Dzień dobry from London :)
G'day mate
Dzień dobry i dziękuję
Thank you for watching.
👍👍응원합니다 👍👍🇰🇷
시청 해주셔서 감사합니다. 어렸을 때 한국에서 2 년을 살았습니다. 한국 음식은 여전히 제가 가장 좋아하는 음식입니다. :-)
@@GreenShortzDIY
Good
And about the sand?
I need to try adding sand. I think that might help with strength. Thank you for the question.
Waa Gwaan hello in Jamaican
The scothch brite pads are good. For higher density increase the air pressure ...try 50psi.
el grumo del cemento es porque esta vencido
I was thinking Air Crete is not ment to be structural it is to make concrete lighter. To use in between supports that hold it more solid. If you want to use it instead of blocks you will have to make them thicker. Put the wire inside but also put a layer of something on the outsides. Maybe a fake brick or a thin fire brick. It by itself is not stable.
Thank you for the tips, Deleah. What I plan to build won’t require much structural strength. The furnace will likely be inside a metal bucket. I’m thinking about skim coating the two other projects. Thank you for watching.
Salut (don't pronounce the letter ‘t’) monsieur = Hi sir (Mr). You can pronounce something like (more or less) ‹silu masia› The French ‘u’ pronounce differently than in English but I have no clue to help you for that. Thank you and congratulations for your very good work and your pronunciation of the Japanese language
Thanks for that! Including in this Saturday's video. :-)
where is the sand?
You should try and make the concrete with salt water.
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ll read up on that.
But chlorides from salt cause concrete to degrade and fail in a VERY short time.
Kumusta in spanish sounds like Como Está? what means: How are you? that is used to say hello too. I think that is thxs to the Spanish Building Empire.. who arrives to Filipinas and start to devoloped the country. NICE!
Interesting. That makes sense. Thank you for watching.
There is no issue with concrete. Use concrete hardner for better result
Thank you for watching.
Why dont you go to the $ Tree and buy their plastic containers for your form!
The watering of the blocks is important and is Where most of the stiffness comes from.
Thank you for the tip, Mysty. I’ve been making sure to let the blocks get a wet cure. Thank you for watching.
Hola, yo estoy muy bien observando tus videos que son muy importantes para mi.
Si entendiste lo que te escribí espero tu respuesta con un emoji de 😉
Saludos desde Colombia en el sur de América.
Hello; здравейте
This was my Grandpa's language.
I’ll use Bulgarian in my next video. Thank you, Terry.
You may need to add something to make your bricks sustainable sand ,fiber ,steal
Thank you for the tip. Thank you for watching.
If I could find it, there's a Russian channel that builds bungalows from aircrete
Osiyo the Cherokee greeting. And just to let you know the Cherokees do not say goodbye
Thank you. I used Cherokee in a video a few weeks ago. Thank you for sharing. :-)
Texas and we say howdy
I married a Texan. I’m slowly learning the language. :-) Thank you for watching.
I made it in 7 minutes. I really like your videos, and wanted to watch this one, but the wind chimes were too loud.
Ha. Yeah, I noticed that too. I think it was only loud early on. I was right below the wind chimes. I did cut out the extra whiny air compressor in high-speed. :-) Thank you for the feedback and for making it 7-minutes.
@@GreenShortzDIY Wow! Thank you for your response!! As I said, I really enjoy your videos! I will go back and try the rest of this one!!!
Hope to contact you soon.
Hala walla = Saudi dialect for hello 😉😉