Looks like many G Scalier make the same mistake when connecting track. Most folks are not aware that next to volts it takes also current (Amps) to make your engines run right. To run just one simple engine on your loop you might don't see any problems. I use to clean my track until the brass was visible again but i never got read of my problems. Today i run my engines even if the brass is oxidative.The moment you ad engines with two motors, lights, sound, smoke gens and lots of lights in coach cars things change quickly. It will take a lot more current (Amps) to get all this power consumers happy. I personally learned the hard way that the whole layout went down as soon as i introduced a second engine or if i switched on all light in the coach cars. To run high current you need a certain cross section of the conductor, in our case the track. The cross section of any track is not your limitation it is always to be found in the clamps which connect track sections.With other words you can't run 5 Amp throe a tiny wire, the cross section of any conductor is Key, the limitation to how much current will flow. The C clamps or the LGB OME clamps do not allow to transfer lots of current because they touch the rail just with a small surface not big enough to transfer the desired current. Just try to picture that in your mind. The C Clamp with that dovetail grabs the foot of the profile but just on the edge. The two half's of the C-Clamps do not close parallel since the screw is of center. If you tend to tighten the screws pretty hard the problem is getting worse. In the end you get a tiny contact surface on the bottom as well on the top edge of the profile foot. This is already a bad solution but it is getting even worse. In addition LGB or Piko mount the OME connection making a fine Imprint in the bottom of the rail using a sharp point. This deforms the foot of the track exactly where you install the clamp. This deformed profile again reduces the already small contact surface. With each track section each C-clamp you ad the problem is repeated multiplied to the point where the engines do not run right because thy do not get the needed current anymore. I have 850 F of track and i use close to 800 C clamps. My solution was to run a 10 Ga wire parallel to the track and after every four five track segments i feed in power again. This solved my problem for good. Bottom line, it is crucial to have a good contact but keep in mind that you need also current to make that layout work. For some my description might be to detailed but be assured the Devil is always in the details.
Hi Pius. A full and clear reply. The voltage drop issue applies at all scales but just g scale. As you say a small cross sectional area will have a higher resistance. The voltage drop will be proportional to the current drawn. I use a running loco to visually demonstrate the voltage drop... it slows down. Easy for a novice to see. The point at which it slows down can help locate the high resistance. A problem on my layout and others is that current will flow both ways around a loop. I have a track break for trouble shooting with which is closed for normal running. Thank you again for your comment. Viewers will find it helpful.
I,ve got the same problem to solve.According to forum you need a 250 watt iron.Not so easy to. find in UK.Have 2 bachmann annies so i am enquiring r/c with battery.Had a OO gauge garden railway and i always soldered wire across the joints and had no problems.Watching with interest as you solve problem.Thanks for posting.Jim
Hi Jim, Trains are running fine at the moment. I have some rail clamp connectors and quite a few soldered joints. I didn't need 250W in the end. The rail clamps are the easiest if you do not mind the look of them, apart from the difficulty of removing LGB fishplates. Drilling and tapping the fishplates with a copper link wire works once you have the right size drill for your self-tapping screws. My later videos show trains running. Good luck, John
Great update John. I have all this yet to come. I agree with the slotted screw techniques. Also, there is a product called “Copperslip” used by motor engineers on brake components especially. This has lubricating properties and, being a copper compound, is resistant to corrosion. Have you considered a “Resistance” Soldering iron? I am wondering about trying it. (Will be speaking to Phil at “Hobby Holidays” who has often demonstrated one at exhibitions). Just a thought or two. Best wishes, Bob.
Hi Bob. It is a great thought. I can see their use for kit builders. The price of £200 plus postage is high if you do not have another use for it. As brazing rod is used I wonder what would happen if you held a piece in an MMA welding machine. Low voltage, high current. If you do try one please let me know how you get on. Stay safe, John
A couple of years ago I took the joints apart and cleaned them and use copper slip to keep it the moisture. It took a little while to clean the excess from track and test logo. A friend uses the lgb conductive grease which is expensive but he swears by it .
would it work if you drilled a small hole into the rail from underneath and soldered a small piece of wire into it,, then use the extruding piece of wire to attach the feeder wire to?
My friend has used that on his joints. I used coppaslip. After a few years some of the fish plates fail. They seem to lose springiness and expand. Conductive paste is a great improvement over dry joints and allows for track expansion and contraction. How long does your page last before renewal?
Hi happy, I have already cleaned all joints and used coppaslip about three years ago. It does keep out air and moisture to prevent tarnishing/corrosion for a while.
Looks like many G Scalier make the same mistake when connecting track. Most folks are not aware that next to volts it takes also current (Amps) to make your engines run right. To run just one simple engine on your loop you might don't see any problems. I use to clean my track until the brass was visible again but i never got read of my problems. Today i run my engines even if the brass is oxidative.The moment you ad engines with two motors, lights, sound, smoke gens and lots of lights in coach cars things change quickly. It will take a lot more current (Amps) to get all this power consumers happy. I personally learned the hard way that the whole layout went down as soon as i introduced a second engine or if i switched on all light in the coach cars. To run high current you need a certain cross section of the conductor, in our case the track. The cross section of any track is not your limitation it is always to be found in the clamps which connect track sections.With other words you can't run 5 Amp throe a tiny wire, the cross section of any conductor is Key, the limitation to how much current will flow. The C clamps or the LGB OME clamps do not allow to transfer lots of current because they touch the rail just with a small surface not big enough to transfer the desired current. Just try to picture that in your mind. The C Clamp with that dovetail grabs the foot of the profile but just on the edge. The two half's of the C-Clamps do not close parallel since the screw is of center. If you tend to tighten the screws pretty hard the problem is getting worse. In the end you get a tiny contact surface on the bottom as well on the top edge of the profile foot. This is already a bad solution but it is getting even worse. In addition LGB or Piko mount the OME connection making a fine Imprint in the bottom of the rail using a sharp point. This deforms the foot of the track exactly where you install the clamp. This deformed profile again reduces the already small contact surface. With each track section each C-clamp you ad the problem is repeated multiplied to the point where the engines do not run right because thy do not get the needed current anymore. I have 850 F of track and i use close to 800 C clamps. My solution was to run a 10 Ga wire parallel to the track and after every four five track segments i feed in power again. This solved my problem for good. Bottom line, it is crucial to have a good contact but keep in mind that you need also current to make that layout work. For some my description might be to detailed but be assured the Devil is always in the details.
Hi Pius. A full and clear reply. The voltage drop issue applies at all scales but just g scale. As you say a small cross sectional area will have a higher resistance. The voltage drop will be proportional to the current drawn. I use a running loco to visually demonstrate the voltage drop... it slows down. Easy for a novice to see. The point at which it slows down can help locate the high resistance.
A problem on my layout and others is that current will flow both ways around a loop. I have a track break for trouble shooting with which is closed for normal running. Thank you again for your comment. Viewers will find it helpful.
I,ve got the same problem to solve.According to forum you need a 250 watt iron.Not so easy to. find in UK.Have 2 bachmann annies so i am enquiring r/c with battery.Had a OO gauge garden railway and i always soldered wire across the joints and had no problems.Watching with interest as you solve problem.Thanks for posting.Jim
Hi Jim, Trains are running fine at the moment. I have some rail clamp connectors and quite a few soldered joints. I didn't need 250W in the end. The rail clamps are the easiest if you do not mind the look of them, apart from the difficulty of removing LGB fishplates. Drilling and tapping the fishplates with a copper link wire works once you have the right size drill for your self-tapping screws. My later videos show trains running. Good luck, John
@@bikerides Thanks for the reply John.Watching your videos with interest.Many thanks.Jim
It looks like a good solution.
Thank you Rob. Clamps for every joint are expensive. Soldering is proving to be a taxing process.
Great update John. I have all this yet to come. I agree with the slotted screw techniques. Also, there is a product called “Copperslip” used by motor engineers on brake components especially. This has lubricating properties and, being a copper compound, is resistant to corrosion. Have you considered a “Resistance” Soldering iron? I am wondering about trying it. (Will be speaking to Phil at “Hobby Holidays” who has often demonstrated one at exhibitions). Just a thought or two. Best wishes, Bob.
Hi Bob. It is a great thought. I can see their use for kit builders. The price of £200 plus postage is high if you do not have another use for it. As brazing rod is used I wonder what would happen if you held a piece in an MMA welding machine. Low voltage, high current. If you do try one please let me know how you get on. Stay safe, John
A couple of years ago I took the joints apart and cleaned them and use copper slip to keep it the moisture. It took a little while to clean the excess from track and test logo. A friend uses the lgb conductive grease which is expensive but he swears by it .
would it work if you drilled a small hole into the rail from underneath and soldered a small piece of wire into it,, then use the extruding piece of wire to attach the feeder wire to?
Absolutely. Once the tack is down all drilling has to be done from above.
Use conduction paste and it will prevent corrosion and make a gas tight set
My friend has used that on his joints. I used coppaslip. After a few years some of the fish plates fail. They seem to lose springiness and expand. Conductive paste is a great improvement over dry joints and allows for track expansion and contraction. How long does your page last before renewal?
What about using Copper anti-seize inside of the fishplate connectors?
Hi happy, I have already cleaned all joints and used coppaslip about three years ago. It does keep out air and moisture to prevent tarnishing/corrosion for a while.
I solved all of this with battery power and railpro
Hi Ben. That is a great solution. You can run steam power as well. cheers, John
Tutorial movie!
Just me rambling on......
@@bikerides Thanks for sharing John!